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Fision KeraVeg18

Fision KeraVeg18 2014

• Marketing Trends • Chemical & Physiological

Composition of Hair • Fision KeraVeg18 Comparisons:

• Amino Acid Distribution • Hair Strengthening Studies • Elasticity Studies • Wet & Dry Combing Studies • Sensory Study • Antioxidant Capacity

2

Table of Contents

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Marketing Trends

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CAGR = 26%

Source: Mintel (Jan 2010-Dec 2013 Annualized)


Top 15 Global Users of Keratin in Hair Care

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Source: Mintel


Organix Anti-Breakage Keratin Oil - Shampoo

TRESemmé Keratin Smooth - Keratin Infusing Shampoo

Miracle 7 - Keratin Daily Conditioner

Andre Walker Hair - TKO Total Keratin Obsession Deep

Conditioner

One 'n Only Brazilian Tech - Keratin Kit

Organix Ever Straight Brazilian Keratin Therapy - Shimmering

Keratin Oil

New Animal Keratin Products Launched to Market

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Source: Mintel

http://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/gnpd/hotlink/id=2009735&utm_source=download&utm_medium=ppt















• Protein composed of 18 amino acids1

• Primary structural component of hair, nails & epidermis

• Keratin keeps hair healthy and lessens damage

What is Keratin?

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Amino Acids in Keratin

Alanine

Arginine

Aspartic Acid

Cysteine

Glutamic Acid

Glycine

Histidine

Isoleucine

Leucine

Lysine

Methionine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Serine

Threonine

Tyrosine

Tryptophan

Valine 1) Obukowho, Patrick. Hair Relaxers Science, Design, and Application. Allured books. 2012. Chapter 1, page 8


The Cuticle – outer most layer of hair, provides protection •Consists mostly of β-keratin (which protects the hair fiber) •Contains cysteine and other amino acids such as arginine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, threonine and tyrosine which form hydrogen bonds (H-bonds) The Cortex – constitutes ~80% of hair mass, responsible for strength, elasticity & flexibility •Consists mostly of α-keratins (makes up the majority of the hair fiber)

– Polypeptides coiled into a helical structure •3 alpha helices are bundled together to form microfibrils •Microfibrils group together and are embedded in a matrix of high sulfur protein

Hair Structure

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Cuticle contains β-keratin

Cortex contains α-keratin

MEDULLA


Types of Hair Damage

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• Problem: Combing & brushing lift cuticles & break individual fibers • Result: Hair is less manageable, can appear dull & more prone to frizz,

leaving hair more susceptible to damage

Styling Damage

• Problem: Changing color (bleaching/dying) & shape (relaxing/perming) increases cuticle porosity & weakens hair fibers

• Result: Hair is difficult to style, breaks easily, can appear dull & lifeless

Chemical Damage

• Problem: Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) generated by UV and heat treatments can damage hair & scalp

• Result: Accelerates aging of hair & scalp • Weakens fibers & affects color • Damages scalp

Oxidative Damage


• Hydrolyzed animal keratin fortifies and conditions hair. In addition, animal keratin: – Increases strength – Repairs damage – Increases tensile strength & elasticity – Improves overall quality of the hair (e.g.

manageability, shine, static, fly-aways) • Concerns

– Industry moving away from using animal ingredients

– Animal rights, safety concerns • Solution

– Market needs an effective, non-animal alternative to deliver the same benefits

Animal Keratin Benefits & Concerns

9

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“Ethical & No Animal” Claims Worldwide

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Source: Mintel (Jan 2010-Dec 2012)

CAGR = 10%


• Introducing Fision KeraVeg18, the vegetable-based alternative to animal keratin

• Cohesive solution containing

wheat & soy amino acids, with additional pure amino acids carefully selected to mimic the functional ratios in commercial human hair amino acids – Pure amino acids are of vegetable

fermentation origin

The Vegetable Alternative

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Features: – Mimics the functional ratios in human hair amino acid – Vegetable-based – Natural – Paraben-free – Formaldehyde-free – Alternative to hydrolyzed animal keratin – Comprised of amino acids to promote greater penetration into hair shaft – Less odorous than animal derived keratin

Benefits: – Increases hair strength – Enhances elasticity – Helps protect hair from harsh salon processes – Makes hair look more shiny & healthy – Improves combability of hair (wet & dry combing) – Reduces static & frizz, making hair easier to style

Fision KeraVeg18 Features & Benefits

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Comparison studies to hydrolyzed animal keratin:

• Amino Acid Distribution • Hair Strengthening Studies • Elasticity Studies • Wet & Dry Combing Studies • Sensory Study • Antioxidant Capacity

Fision KeraVeg18

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INCI: Wheat Amino Acids, Soy Amino Acids, Arginine HCl, Serine, Threonine Suggested Applications: • Shampoos • Conditioners • Leave-on hair treatments • Styling products Suggested Use Level: 2 – 5 %

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Amino acid distribution of Fision KeraVeg18

is close to hydrolyzed keratin

Similar Amino Acid Profile

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Values reported for hydrolyzed keratin are average values of 2 commercially available hydrolyzed keratins from different suppliers

Amino AcidHydrolyzed

KeratinFision

KeraVeg18Alanine 5.30 2.72Arginine 11.41 10.51Aspartic Acid 8.70 6.44Cysteine 2.00 0.20Glutamic Acid 16.27 22.19Glycine 7.55 8.31Histidine 1.10 1.28Isoleucine 2.55 2.73Leucine 5.60 4.91Lysine 3.95 2.87Methionine 0.55 0.86Phenylalanine 2.40 3.52Proline 8.21 6.61Serine 10.46 11.75Threonine 7.20 9.80Tyrosine 1.10 2.35Valine 5.65 2.95Total 100.00 100.00


Benefits of Arginine include:

– Reinforces and strengthens hair fibers – Helps resist hair breakage and brittleness – Delivers strong conditioning properties – Enhances hair and skin hydration

1. Arginine is the most nitrogen-rich amino acid – Nitrogen carries a positive charge which helps arginine bond to negatively charged

hair – Proteins with more arginine have superior bond with hair

2. Arginine remains substantive to hair throughout harsh coloring and straightening treatments – Arginine has highest positive charge in widest pH spectrum and holds well at low

pH conditions – Highest pKa (12.5) of any amino acid, enabling molecule to retain positive charge

and remain bonded to hair shaft 3. Arginine binds more water and provides intense moisturization

– 6 water-binding sites in molecular structure – Binding and holding water helps prevent brittleness and breakage caused by dry

and damaged hair

Fision KeraVeg18 = 10.51% Arginine

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Study 1 – Caucasian Hair

– Damaged with a triple bleaching process

– Measured improvements in elasticity & strength

Study 2 – African Hair – Damaged with a no-lye hair relaxer – Measured improvements in elasticity

& strength

Hair Strength Studies

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Performed studies using damaged hair, resulting from common hair treatments

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Similar Performance

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• Strength & Elasticity are 2 of the defining qualities of healthy hair: – Healthy hair can better withstand frequent combing & styling forces that can otherwise break

hair – The elastic nature of the hair fiber can allow it to stretch during styling without becoming

damaged • Measuring Strength:

– The amount of force required to break a hair fiber • Measuring Elasticity:

– The amount of force that can be applied to stretch the hair before it becomes damaged


Study 1 Details – Hair Elasticity & Strength (Caucasian Hair)

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Category Details

Test Model 90 Triple bleached Caucasian hair fibers taken from the same swatch (prior to bleaching, hair was a medium brown)

Materials 2% Fision KeraVeg18 & 2% Hydrolyzed Animal Keratin Protein (Hydrolyzed Keratin) in aqueous solutions

Treatments • Group 1: 2% Fision KeraVeg18 • Group 2: 2% Hydrolyzed Keratin • Group 3: Untreated (serves as baseline for before treatment value)

Instrument(s) Dia-Stron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester & Dia-Stron Crimp Assembly System Treatment Methods

• Hair was soaked a total of 3 times in treatment solutions for 30 minutes • For the first and second treatments, hair was allowed to dry for 24 hours

under ambient conditions • After the last treatment, hair equilibrated for an hour prior to testing. Brass

crimps were then added to the ends of the individual hair fibers following Dia-Stron’s methods.

• Tensile strength was then determined by measuring the total work required to break the individual hair fibers

Conditions Water Temperature: 40°C ± 2, Relative Humidity: 50% ± 2, Room temperature: 20°C ± 2


Study 1 – Results for Increasing Elasticity

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More elastic hair is considered to be healthier and less prone to breakage from styling. Results show Fision KeraVeg18 improves elasticity up to 18%.


Study 1 – Results for Increasing Strength

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The triple bleaching process weakens hair. Before & after results show Fision KeraVeg18 performs similarly to hydrolyzed animal keratin for improving strength.


Study 1 – Caucasian Hair Stress Strain Comparison

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Example of average difference in stress strain curves using Fision KeraVeg18 vs. Hydrolyzed Keratin after 5 applications

Fision KeraVeg18 displays similar strengthening properties to Hydrolyzed Keratin Compared to the placebo, KeraVeg18 allowed the hair to tolerate more force before breakage


Study 2 Details – Hair Elasticity & Strength (African Hair)

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Category Details

Test Model 90 hair fibers from no-lye relaxed African hair (originally curl type VII) (30 fibers/material)

Treatments Group 1: 2% Fision KeraVeg18 in commercial shampoo & conditioner Group 2: 2% Hydrolyzed Keratin in commercial shampoo & conditioner Group 3: Commercial shampoo & conditioner (placebo)

Instrument(s) Dia-Stron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester & Dia-Stron Crimp Assembly System

Treatment Methods

Hair was relaxed using Soft Sheen Carson Healthy Gloss 5 kit, per manufacturer’s instructions. After relaxing, hair was treated with 5 cycles of shampooing (1 min) and conditioning (2 min). Hair dried for 24 hours under ambient conditions. Brass crimps were added to the ends of the fibers following Dia-Stron’s methods.



Study 2 – Results for Increasing Elasticity

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Fision KeraVeg18 improves elasticity of relaxed African hair. Elasticity is an important attribute of healthy hair. Hair with greater elasticity is considered to be healthier and less prone to breakage from styling.


Study 2 – Results for Increasing Strength

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Chemically relaxing hair has been shown to significantly weaken the hair fiber. Fision KeraVeg18 is shown to increase hair strength while hydrolyzed animal keratin does not appear to be effective. Increasing hair

strength can help protect hair from styling damage.


Study 2 – African Hair Stress Strain Comparison

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Fision KeraVeg18 displays superior strengthening properties vs. Hydrolyzed Keratin Compared to the placebo, KeraVeg18 allows the hair to tolerate more force before breakage

Example of average difference in stress strain curves using Fision KeraVeg18 vs. Hydrolyzed Keratin after 5 applications


• Improve elasticity for healthier hair

• Increase hair strength to prevent breakage

• Protect hair from styling damage • Help damage recovery to improve

hair health

Hair Elasticity & Strength Conclusions

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These studies indicate Fision KeraVeg18 can:

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Study 3 – Wet Combing

– One-time bleached Caucasian hair

– Measured improvements in wet combing ease

Study 4 – Dry Combing

– One-time bleached Caucasian hair

– Measured improvements in dry combing

Combing Studies

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Performed studies using damaged hair, resulting from common hair treatments

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Study 3 Details – Wet Combing

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Category Details

Test Model 9 single bleached brown Caucasian hair swatches approximately 15 cm in length (3 swatches per test material)

Treatments • 10% SLES pre-treatment to clarify the hair • 2% Fision KeraVeg18, 2% Hydrolyzed Animal Keratin Protein (Hydrolyzed

Keratin) in separate shampoo & conditioner (placebo) • All three treatments were tested in triplicate

Instrument(s) Dia-Stron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester in combing orientation.

Treatment Methods

• After pre-treatment, swatches were dried under ambient conditions for 24 hours.

• Swatches were then treated with the respective shampoos and conditioners for a total of 5 times.

• Combing forces were measured after 1 and 5 applications. Conditions Water Temperature: 40°C ± 2, Relative Humidity: 50% ± 2, Room temperature:

20°C ± 2


Study 3 – Results for Wet Combing

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Hair is weaker when wet. Fision KeraVeg18 made wet hair easier to comb. This can help reduce risk of hair breakage when combing & make hair easier to style.


Study 4 Details – Dry Combing

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Category Details

Test Model 9 single bleached brown Caucasian hair swatches approximately 15 cm in length (3 swatches per test material)

Treatments • 10% SLES pre-treatment to clarify the hair. • 2% Fision KeraVeg18 & 2% Hydrolyzed Animal Keratin Protein (Hydrolyzed

Keratin) in separate vehicle shampoo & conditioner (placebo) • All three treatments were tested in triplicate.

Instrument(s) Dia-Stron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester in combing orientation.

Treatment Methods

• After pre-treatment, swatches were dried under ambient conditions for 24 hours.

• Swatches were then treated with the respective shampoos and conditioners for a total of 5 times.

• After treatments, swatches dried for 24 hours under ambient conditions. • Combing forces were then measured after 1 and 5 applications.



Study 4 – Results for Dry Combing

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Hair treated with Fision KeraVeg18 made hair easier to comb. Reducing the force required to comb the hair improves manageability to help limit styling damage.


• Improve combability of wet & dry hair

• Reduce damage that results from excessive combing

• Aid in damage recovery to make damaged hair more manageable

Hair Combing Conclusions

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These studies indicate Fision KeraVeg18 can:

Fision KeraVeg18 is a good alternative to animal derived keratin for improving styling ease and aiding in damage

recovery (repair)

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Perceivable Improvements – Consumer test simulation – 5 females of various descents evaluated the following

parameters after 4 applications of Fision KeraVeg18 & hydrolyzed keratin

Study 5 – Sensory Study

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Hair Characteristic

Knot Removal

Styling Ease

Combing

Shine/Luster

Frizz

Static

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Study 5 Details – Sensory Study

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Consumer Test

Details

Participants 5 females of various descents

Model Mannequin heads with Caucasian Hair

Test Materials • 2% Fision KeraVeg18 , 2% Hydrolyzed Keratin • Protein-free Placebos: Commercial Shampoo & Conditioner

Treatment Methods

• 10% SLES clarifying pre-treatment wash was used to ensure hair was clean. • Evaluators rated the condition of dry hair based on several parameters. • Heads were shampooed and conditioned for a total of 4 cycles. Subjects

rated improvements in wet hair first. • Hair was allowed to dry under ambient conditions for 24 hours prior to

performing the dry hair evaluations. • Evaluations determined on an 11-point scale from 0 (worst) to 10 (best)



Study 5a – Sensory Study Results for Perceivable Improvements on Wet Hair

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After 4 applications, participants noticed superior improvement in the above characteristics when comparing Fision KeraVeg18 to hydrolyzed keratin.


Study 5b – Sensory Study Results for Perceivable Improvements

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After 4 applications, participants noticed a similar improvement in the above characteristics when comparing Fision KeraVeg18 to hydrolyzed keratin.


These studies indicate Fision KeraVeg18 can: • Conditions the hair to help remove knots • Helps make hair easier to style • Improves combing • Increases shine/luster • Reduces Frizz • Decreases static

Perceivable Improvements Conclusion

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Fision KeraVeg18 performed comparably to hydrolyzed animal keratin


• Amino acids can provide antioxidant protection and limit Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) damage

• ROS can weaken hair fibers and alter color

Study 6 – Antioxidant Capacity

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Study 6 – Antioxidant Capacity Results

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Fision KeraVeg18 delivers similar antioxidant protection at 1%


• UV & hair treatments create oxidative stress that can damage hair & scalp

• Fision KeraVeg18 provides similar antioxidant protection as hydrolyzed keratin

• May help limit oxidative damage to the hair & scalp

ROS Protection Conclusion

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• Performs comparably to hydrolyzed animal keratin

• Helps to fortify hair, making it stronger and more elastic

• Decreases force required to comb both wet and dry hair, thus making it easier to comb and style

• Prevents damage

• Aids in damage recovery

Fision KeraVeg18 Summary

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INCI: Wheat Amino Acids, Soy Amino Acids, Arginine HCl, Serine, Threonine

Suggested Applications: • Shampoos • Conditioners • Leave-on hair treatments • Post-treatment hair products

Suggested Use Level: 2 – 5 %

Benefits: • Increases hair strength • Enhanced elasticity • Helps protect hair from harsh

salon processes • Makes hair look more shiny &

healthy • Improves combability of hair (wet

& dry combing) • Reduces static & frizz, making hair

easier to style • Comprised of amino acids to

promote greater penetration into hair shaft

Thank You! www.tri-k.com [email protected]

+1.973.298.8850

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