trim defects.doc only.doc

7/28/2019 Trim defects.doc only.doc

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Trims

Trims must be compatible with base fabric and where appropriate match with

the shade of the base fabric

Trims must conform to standards specified by Buyer with respect to colour,

quantity, quality, safety and utility

All trims including draw strings, piping, buttons, zippers must be checked for

colour fastness and shrinkage prior to production

Trimmings should have the ability to be attached in a secure manner to the

body fabric

Trims must be safe with respect to toxicity, colorants, coatings etc

Trims must not cause irritation or hurt the customer after adorning the garment

Dyes used on trims must not be carcinogenic

Fusing/Interlinings

Interlinings must be compatible with base fabric weight and fibber composition

Interlinings must conform to standards specified by buyer

The colour must be compatible with the base fabric especially as the fusible

could show through or influence base fabric shade

Fusible should be selected based on type of construction(woven, non-woven,

knitted), the resin and the process to be used(pressure and temperature

applied)

Fusible after fusing must withstand laundering, cleaning and abrasion

Fusible which causes a strike back(penetration of adhesive to other surfaces in

the interlining) and strike through(penetration of adhesive to the outer fabric

surface) `will be rejected

Interlinings must be positioned to provide support and shape where required

Linings

Colour fastness and performance of lining to be compatible with base fabric

Linings must conform to standards specified by buyer

Where wadded linings are used polyester wadding is required of specified

weight and density


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Dye should not be carcinogenic

Accessories

All accessories(hangers, tags, card boards, poly bags, pins, clips) must be,

colour fast, and conform to other standards prescribed by buyer

Accessories must not damage/distort the garment directly or indirectly

Accessories must be uniform within a lot

Elastic

Must have the specified width , sufficient strength and elasticity for garment

comfort

Elastics must maintain the properties throughout the life of the garment with due

allowances for wash and care

It must be free of additives that can adversely affect the base fabric, lining or

trimmings and must be odour free

Elastic shrinkage must be specified

Bindings

Must be appropriate and compatible for base fabric

Must be colour fast, have the specified strength and width, and the proper finish

Must not cause puckers or twisting after attaching

Must not have joints along the length

Labels

Must be colour fast and have a sound construction

The words/logos/instructions/pictures must be clearly printed/embroidered on

the label

Labels instructions must be clearly understood by the supplier and only then

manufactured

Labels should have the right margin for attaching/insertion

Labels should have no loose fibres or uneven edges


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Whenever loop labels are used the label should be inserted appropriately with

the allowance on the label pushed fully into the seam and not showing outside

Whenever labels have to be secured on four sides the stitch lines have to be

even and label shape undistorted

Raw edges must be concealed within seams and labels positioned at a

consistent distance from a referral point e.g. Main label positioned centrally at 3

cm below the neckband

Threads attaching the labels must be neatly trimmed

The embroidered/printed matter on the label must not be concealed

Drawstrings/Cords

Cords once knotted should not open up

End toggles should not open up, should be colour fast, lead and toxic free and

should not distort on laundering

Pocketing

Pocketing colour must be appropriate for body fabric, unless specified and must

conform to standards specified by buyer

Pocketing fabric must be able to withstand very high stress and also be colour

fast

Buttons

Must be dyed to match unless specified

Must be colour fast

Must be compatible with body fabric when secured

Must be non toxic

Buttons should not have sharp edges

Material should not chip off when subjected to laundering, ironing or other

forces

Buttons should not melt when subjected to high temperatures

Buttons should not be affected by solvents


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The holes should be symmetrical with respect to its centre

Metal buttons should have rust proof finish

Buttons must retain its properties throughout the life of the garment

Buttons must be able to withstand scratches The buttons are spaced correctly for their size and for the location of their use

The buttons are reinforced according to the dictates of the fabric and location

The buttons are sewn on securely

The buttonholes are the correct type for the garment design and fabric

The buttons and buttonholes are correctly aligned

The buttons should be securely attached with no fraying or loose threads

The buttonholes fit the buttons without gaping open or allowing the buttons tocome through too easily

Rivets & Studs

These must be rust proof, colour fast and have a good finish

The sizes must be as specified

Compatible washers should be supplied along with the rivets and studs

If there is an embossing or print it should be able to withstand the die forceapplied

Fasteners are the correct size for the closure requirement

Fasteners are attached securely, whether mechanically or by hand

Concealed application of fasteners are inconspicuous

Fasteners used in visible applications are suitable for the apparel design and

fabric

Zippers

Zippers should conform to the specified length and width

Zippers should be rust proof

It should have a good quality stopper/slider and teeth

It should have auto lock mechanism

The zip slider must be free from obstruction when functioning and not catch

base fabric in its movement


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It should be colour fast and not wear out on frequent use

It should be compatible with base fabric

It should posses the ability to allow stitch formation and securable to the base

fabric

The top of the zip should have a top stop where necessary as the slider can

come off

The zipper teeth should have even edges to allow free movement of the slider

The zipper teeth and tape materials are suitable for the apparel design and

fabric

The zipper length is adequate for ease in wearing or using the item

The method of attachment is appropriate to the garment design

All visible stitching is neatly done

The zipper is securely inserted into the garment (Zippers in trousers should

come upto the waistband, in dresses should come upto the fabric)

Zipper teeth are concealed adequately by lapped applications

Lapped applications are evenly done

Zipper should be attached neatly with the correct stitch margin taken and

without puckering

During construction sufficient clearance should be given to allow smooth

operation and to minimize likelihood of slider catching base fabric or lining

On open ended zips bar tacking or securing to base is required

Threads

Thread selected must be appropriate for the fabric in size, composition, strength

and shrinkage characteristics.

Manufacturers should discuss thread selection with suppliers and equipmenttechnicians whenever necessary.

Thread colour must match the base fabric (unless otherwise specified) and be

colour fast.

Overlocking thread should match the base fabric where practicable.

Bartack and other threads should match the base fabric where practicable.

Thread properties should be maintained during storage.


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Sewing thread affects the strength of the finished garment, the quality of seams

sewn and the effectiveness with which equipment can be used; hence correct

selection is essential.

Embroidery

Embroidery threads must be consistent with the performance characteristics of

the base fabric

Embroidery threads must match the base fabric and remain colour fast

Direct embroidery motifs must have the backing of soft tissue or interlining

removed(if present) prior to delivery

Embroidery must be correctly positioned and aligned. Embroidery threads must

be securely tied off and clipped. Embroidery must appear flat without pucker

or distortion.

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