Trinidad & Tobago

GEODYSSEY

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he twin republic of Trinidad and Tobago is the leading nation in the eastern Caribbean.

Trinidad lies only 7 miles off the coast of Venezuela and the South American continent (to which both Trinidadand Tobago were once joined). To the north of Trinidad is the Caribbean Sea, to the south the Orinoco runs

into the Atlantic. It is just 50 miles north/south and 30 miles across at the centre.

Trinidadians trace their heritage to many origins. Some have roots among the Caribs that lived here before the arrivalof the Europeans, many are descended from Africans brought to the island in the barbarity of the slave trade, othershave european, indian, chinese, or arab backgrounds. Mutual respect, tolerance and the celebration of differentcultures are themes that run through the island’s life, centred on the capital, Port of Spain. Here you’ll find one of themost multicultural, vibrant and cosmopolitan societies in the whole of the Caribbean. Outside the capital and a fewsmall towns, rural communities lead a simpler, more relaxed, rather upright way of life.

Trinidad is for the most part outside the mainstream Caribbean tourist trade of ‘sun, sea and sand’ (though it has eachin plenty). It attracts instead a variety of visitors interested in wildlife, nature and the island’s rich culture. Walking andtrekking are also good options. There are some excellent local beaches along the north coast: crescent bays with quietsandy beaches backed by palm-trees, fishing villages enlarged by a few beach houses and very few hotels, andlivelier beaches near Port of Spain serving its week-enders.

The two islands are among the richest in wildlife in the Caribbean, with a great variety of habitats crammed into theirsmall areas, including montane rainforests, freshwater wetlands, mangrove swamps, and coral reefs close by Tobago’scoast. There is a particularly wide range of birdlife, thanks to the islands’ proximity to South America, and luxuriantmarine life around Tobago nourished by nutrients from the Orinoco. Trinidad is also notable for leatherback turtles thatnest on its northern beaches, and a small population of manatee. Conservation has a long history, with Tobagoboasting an area of rainforest that has been legally protected since 1760. Modern efforts are rather fitful (oil extractiontucked away off the southwest and southeast coasts plays a major part in Trinidad’s economy), but improving as the

islands come to recognise their potential for ecotourism.

Most visitors to the islands stay on Tobago, attracted by good beaches and a smallnumber of resort-type hotels around its southern tip. December - March are the mostpopular months. Trinidad is very popular at Carnival (two days before Ash Wednesday)and in the weeks leading up to it.

Tobago is much smaller than Trinidad: a fish-shaped island just 26 miles long and 6miles wide, and lies 20 miles to the northeast - a short 20 minute flight. It is mostly averdant landscape of winding coastal roads that skirt craggy headlands and bays,

Trinidad & Tobago

GeodysseyGeodyssey is not an ordinary travel company. We startedlife in 1993 as a travel specialist for holidays toVenezuela, for which we developed a dedicated andpersonal style that many people seem to like.

With a ‘fairly-traded travel’ ethos we try to go beyond theusual tourist experience, to give you a real feel for acountry in the context of a well-organised trip thatmakes best use of precious time and often modestbudgets. It seems to work - we rapidly became the UK’sleading travel company for mainland Venezuela.

We concentrate on ecotourism, wildlife and outdooractivities, as well as great beaches and good food. Few ofus want to do only one thing with our holiday time, sowe provide you with a wide choice. We know a greatdeal about organising specialist pursuits likeadventurous treks and expeditions, birdwatching, andscuba diving, so you can mix these in as well.

When we visited Trinidad a few years ago we loved it.Since then we’ve been researching, meeting localpeople, visiting hotels, seeing the birds and wildlife forourselves, and testing tours and treks. It’s been great,but hard work! Now we feel we can offer our customersfor Trinidad and Tobago something approaching theservice we offer for Venezuela.

This is our first full brochure for ‘T&T’ and we have manypeople to thank for helping us, especially RosemarieThomas, Tony Poyer, Roger Neckles, Andy Whitwell,Wendy Yawching, Sean Robinson, David Rooks, IanLambie, Courtney Rooks, Cristo Adonis, and Victor Nixon.

Welcome to Trinidad and Tobago - we hope you’ll love ittoo!

Gillian HoweJohn Thirtle

Trinidad & Tobago

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GEODYSSEY www.geodyssey.co.uk Reservations : 020 7281 7788 3

unspoilt natural beaches, tiny hamlets, exuberant tropical vegetation, and dazzlingly colourful songbirds. The capitalcity, Scarborough is little more than a small town. Almost everyone makes at least a part, if not all, of his living fromfarming or fishing - a blast on a conch shell still calls men to pull the fishing nets ashore. The island’s key celebrationsremain the fishermen’s fetes and the year round harvest festivals held when the whole local community workscollectively together to bring in a crop. Even the annual Easter Goat and crab races at Buccoo and the traditionalfolkloric Heritage Festival which tours the island from mid July to early August are genuine local events, not laid on forvisitors.

Tobago is one of the most important places in the Caribbean for divers, and there is plenty of scope for windsurfing,sailing, surfing and kayaking too. At Mount Irvine there is an 18-hole championship golf course, reputed to be one ofthe Caribbean’s best. The cannons at Fort King George and place names such as Englishman’s Bay, Bloody Bay, ManO’War Bay, King’s Bay, and Pirates Bay hint at the island’s tumultuous colonial history of capture and recapture betweenthe Spanish, French and British.

It’s easy to explore Tobago by road. All the sights are reachable from anywhere on the island in the course of a day’sdrive. We can arrange a hire car for you, but for a real treat we’d recommend you to take of one of our very personablelocal drivers, like the wonderful Mr Victor Nixon. To be driven by ‘Nixon’ is to be in the company of royalty: everyTobagonian seems to know him, calling him as the car passes, exchanging a few words and a drawled “aaall-right” -the universal greeting on Tobago.

Both Trinidad and Tobago have wonderful food. On Trinidad the accent is on variety, with creole and europeancooking colliding head-on with african, indian and chinese cuisines to create new twists and combinations. Hotelsadopt less varied menus to suit their foreign guests and chicken, steaks, hamburgers, and pizzas are easy to find. Besure to try Tobago’s speciality of curried crab and dumplings at some stage during your visit, and experiment withTrinidad’s street food from the most sought-after vendors.

Musically, Trinidad’s heyday came with the popularity of calypso in the 50s and 60s. Now replaced by soca, one of themost danceable beats, Trinidad’s popular music stays at home and has not found the same recognition as reggae orrap. But Trinidad’s Carnival still leads the Caribbean in music, costume, dance and sheer partying. The lead-up toCarnival is almost as good as Carnival itself, with lots of practice events - as much fun, and in more manageable doses.

Columbus passed Trinidad on his third expedition; Sir Walter Raleigh called in and raided the main Spanish settlementon his way to the Orinoco and his search for El Dorado. Though increasingly settled by the French, Spanish rulecontinued until the end of the eighteenth century, when Trinidad was surrendered to Britain. The plantation economybegun by Spain continued beyond the end of slavery in 1838, and the indenture system that, until 1917, broughtdestitute workers from India on pittance wages. Independence came in 1962, under the brilliant radical Dr Eric Williams.

pageRegions (and Places to stay):

Trinidad 4-5Port of Spain 6Tobago 7-9

Small group holidays 10Independent travels 11Special interests:

Diving 12Walking, trekking and cycling 13Birdwatching 14-15

Venezuela extensions back cover

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Trinidad & Tobago

Planning your tripThe simplest and best value way to see T&T is to join asmall group ‘Trinidad and Tobago Odyssey’ trip, page 10.

If you are planning your own trip your first decisionshould be how long to spend on each island. For Tobagodecide then where you’ll stay - you can see the wholeisland from any of the Places to stay on pages 7-9. ForTrinidad your first decision may be what you’d like to do -beach, touring, wildlife, trekking, etc, then plan youraccommodation accordingly, see pages 4 - 5.

On page 11 there’s a choice of short tours that you canmix in. We’d encourage you to take one or two tours atleast, as a way of meeting talented local guides and alsoto discover more about the islands and get to places thatmay be hard to reach under your own steam. We canalso arrange a hire car for you, or a car with driver.

If you’ve a special interest in diving, trekking, cycling orbirdwatching (pages 12-15) then you can devote thewhole of your holiday to it, or just a few days.

Finally, you might like to round off your holiday with anexcursion to Venezuela, details on the back cover.

Contents

Cover photo : Marianne Beach, Blanchisseuse, Trinidad

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Your protectionYou may book with Geodyssey in the knowledge that yourmoney is fully protected.

Geodyssey holds an ATOL licence, supervised by the CivilAviation Authority, who make stipulations as to our sharecapital to help ensure we stay in business and require us tolodge a bond as surety so that UK clients who buy domestic orinternational flights as part of the holiday they purchase fromus will be protected should the company fail.

It is not widely recognised that this system does not protectthose who do not buy any flights. Geodyssey also protects thesecustomers, by safeguarding the money paid for their holiday ina trust administered by solicitors, until their holiday is complete.

GEODYSSEY www.geodyssey.co.uk Reservations : 020 7281 77884

Northern TrinidadThe forested hills of the Northern Range stretch acrossthe entire 80km width of the northern part of Trinidad,from beyond Port of Spain in the west across to theAtlantic in the east. Away from Port of Spain and thetowns along the Eastern Main Road, the hills are sparselypopulated and natural. There are trekking trails throughthe forests and good places for birds and other wildlife.

Along the rugged North Coast the hills meet the sea ina succession of beautiful bays between craggyheadlands. There is a choice of pleasant beach hotelsand an absence of large scale international tourism. It’s alovely area to explore and spend time in.

Just two roads cross the hills to the north coast: from Portof Spain to Maracas Bay, and from Arima to Blanchisseuse.A narrow coastal road connects the two. The only otherpart of the north coast reached by road is in the extremeeast; to get to it you have to drive across the island toToco and around the Northeast Tip.

The most accessible and popular beaches are atMaracas Bay and Las Cuevas. Being close to Port ofSpain they get very busy at weekends. Look for ‘RichardsBake and Shark’ a favourite food stall at Maracas Bay.

Further along the coast the beaches are quieter. At theend of the road you reach Blanchisseuse, a fishingvillage with an assortment of weather-beaten boardhouses adorned by brightly flowering bougainvillea, set

above a succession of pristine, wild sandy beaches. Theatmosphere is relaxed and friendly. There is a church,grocers shop, bar, post office, school and a smattering ofsimple guest houses used by local holiday makers. Itsname dates from French Creole times and the laun-dresses who washed clothes in the village stream.

Beyond Blanchisseuse there is 30km of coast before thenext stretch of tarmac in Matelot. In between there aresome fabulous wild beaches and magnificent coastalviews. The area can only be reached on foot, followingtrails which dip and climb through lush forests of oldcoffee, cacao and citrus estates. See the North Coast Trekfrom Braso Seco to Matelot on page 13.

The Northeast Tip is one of Trinidad’s best kept secrets. Itis a region of tiny well-kept rural communities, enticingscenery and quietitude. Matelot is a small hamlet typicalof the rural communities scattered among the hills ofthe Northern Range. At Grande Riviere there is acharacterful hotel (see ‘Places to stay’ panel) and anattractive beach. Magnificent leatherback turtles nesthere and at several other beaches in this part of theisland (see panel below).

There are good opportunities to explore the NorthernRange itself. Small roads to isolated villages windthrough the hills amid the forest, passing huge stands ofbamboo, dense ferns, heliconias and philodendrons

growing beneath trees festooned with bromeliads,orchids and liana vines. Rivers tumble down from thepeaks to carve deep swimming pools, cascades andwaterfalls along the way.

In the plantation era much of this region was given overto cocoa, coffee or citrus, flourishing beneath the shadeof the tall ‘Immortelle’ trees. A few plantations are stillactive, others have reverted to forest. Long forgottendonkey paths, known as ‘bench trails’ criss-cross theformer plantation lands, providing excellent hikingroutes through an otherwise inaccessible area.

The mountain rains make for lush vegetation thatsupports a diversity of wildlife including land crabs, freshwater shrimps, agouti, armadillo, red brocket deer,manicou, wild pigs, bats, squirrels and an abundance ofcolourful hummingbirds, tanagers and honeycreepers,plus the rare Trinidad Piping-guan.

Brasso Seco is one of the few communities that lie deepwithin the Northern Range. Here villagers have groupedtogether to offer rooms for rent in their own homes. Theamenities are humble but proudly kept and you can besure your welcome will be warm. Its multiculturalhouseholds include Amerindian, Spanish, British, Africanand East Indian origins. The two main events in thevillage’s calendar are Christmas and the Harvest Festivalin May.

Leatherback turtles are magnificent animals whoselineage dates from a time before the dinosaurs. Thesehuge, mysterious creatures are the largest of the seaturtles. They grow to nearly 10ft in length and over 900kg(nearly a ton), though most adults are about 6ft. Theirname comes from their leathery carapace made of a thinbut very tough and rubbery skin, strengthened bythousands of bonelets beneath.

Like all sea turtles, the leatherback is endangered. Theynumbered about 115,000 in 1980, but by someestimates the population may now be less than 25,000.In Trinidad, and at some other locations, their numbersare increasing, but there have been massive declineselsewhere, attributed in part to harvesting of their eggsby humans for food and entanglement in fishing nets.

Leatherbacks are predominantly ocean dwellers and havebeen found as far north as Alaska and as far south asChile. They remain active at temperatures too cold forother reptiles and so are thought to be able to regulate their body temperature. They candive to great depths, more than 3,300 ft (as deep as any whale), and can stay underwaterfor nearly 30 minutes at a time. If a further reason for liking leatherback turtles wereneeded, it would be their prodigious appetite for jellyfish - in captivity they can consumetwice their own bodyweight each day. Squid is also on the menu.

Though they are known to travel 3,000 miles from their nesting sites, about every 2 or 3years the female leatherback returns to her ancestral beach to lay her eggs. Leatherbacksprefer sloping sandy beaches where they can make a short haul to dry sand; here theyexcavate a meter-deep egg chamber using their back flippers. Their sheer bulk makes this

Leatherback Turtlesa tremendous effort. While laying is in progress theturtles go into a trance-like state. In the deepest part ofthe chamber they lay about 80 white leathery eggs thesize of snooker balls, followed by a layer of sand and 30smaller unfertilised decoy eggs in case the nest isuncovered and raided. Once she has laid, the femalecovers the nest using her flippers, leaving a distinctivecircular sweeping pattern in the sand. She will then haulherself to other areas of the beach to laboriously createsimilar patterns at different spots in an effort to hide theposition of her true nest. Towards dawn she returnsexhausted to the sea. She may come back to lay again upto 10 times each season.

About 65 days later, the hatchlings emerge and dash forthe sea. The mortality rate is high at every stage. Only 60%of eggs mature into hatchlings as many are infertile orare dug up by dogs or poachers, many fall prey to dogs orbirds on their way to the sea, or are then eaten by fish.

On Trinidad the nesting process can be seen between March and August, and thehatchlings emerge between May and September. Turtle laying beaches are protectedareas and you need a permit to enter after dark. It is a very moving experience to watchthe females laying - hire a local naturalist guide, keep quiet, and stay well back until thefemale enters her egg-laying trance. Some say that then she may even be touched, butthis is not recommended. Photos can be taken in dawn light (rather than by flash atnight). Please support the excellent work of the Turtle Protection Programme of the TocoFoundation, which provides wardens to protect the laying beaches by night and day andto guide visitors.

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GEODYSSEY www.geodyssey.co.uk Reservations : 020 7281 7788 5

SouthernTrinidad

Trinidad

Pax Guest HouseHigh on a hill in the grounds of a Benedictinemonastery, Pax Guest House has themountains and forests of the NorthernRange at its rear and wide views over the

plains to thesouth. It iswell sitedfor day tripsto mostparts of theisland.

There are 19guest rooms, dining and sitting rooms, andbalconies overlooking the gardens. Naturetrails lead around a 600-acre estate. Thehospitality is genuine and the ambience ispeaceful. Pax is famed for its high teas in lateafternoon. The manager Gerard makes a finerum punch at sundown.

Rooms are simply furnished, many withantique furniture made by the monks. Somehave private bathrooms, but most just havesinks in the room, with separate men’s andladies’ showers and WCs a few steps across acorridor.

Places to stay in Northern and Southern TrinidadAsa WrightNature Centre & LodgeAt the head of the Arima valley, surroundedby pristine tropical rainforest, Asa Wright is aworld class destination for birdwatchers, andhas a conservation and study centre forprofessional and amateur naturalists. Over170 bird species have been recorded at thisformer coffee-cocoa-citrus plantationestablished from early work in the area by DrWilliam Beebe.

Many species can be seen from the verandahof the main Victorian house, visiting nearbyfruit tables and nectar feeders, or along thenumerous trails that cross the estate. TheLodge has 24 ensuite bedrooms, mostly incottages in the gardens near the main house.All have private verandahs. There is an oilbirdcolony that can be visited by guests who stayfor 3 nights or more.

Asa Wright is firmly on the map for USbirders with the result that the Lodge is fullybooked for parts of the high season severalyears in advance. The Nature Centre is opento day visitors from 9am to 5pm.

Mount Plaisir EstateGrande RiviereAn easy-going hideaway hotel directly on thebeach in the quiet village of Grande Riviere

onTrinidad’sremote NEcoast,below theforests oftheNorthernRange.

There are 7 beach front suites, with electricfans and private bathrooms, each withflexible accommmodation suitable forcouples or up to as many as 6 people. Thehotel is built in a colourful rustic style,decorated with local crafts. The atmosphereis laid back, there is good cooking to a simplemenu, and friendly staff.

The good-sized beach in front of the hotel isa great place to see leatherback turtles. Theynest in numbers between March and August.Hatchlings make their hazardous journey tothe sea between May and September.

The hotel can arrange walks in the forestwith a local guide or horseback riding on oldroads and trails in the forest. Riding on thebeach is possible outside the turtles’ nestingseason. For birders the main attraction is theTrinidad Piping Guan, a rare endemic whichcan be found in forests behind the village.

Laguna Mar, BlanchisseuseThe most established small hotel inBlanchisseuse, with its own access to thebreathtaking Marianne Beach (cover photo),whose sands stretch for 2km, and the lagoonof the Marianne River - an attractivefreshwater lake behind the beach which is analternative place to swim. Its 12 rooms havetwo double beds, fan, bathroom and widebalcony. The dining room is a prettilyconverted cacao drying building, with tablesinside and out. It is a 2 km walk, along themagnificent beach or by a small road, to therest of the village.

Maracas Bay HotelThe only hotel right on the lovely palmfringed Maracas Bay, Trinidad’s most popularweekend beach spot just 40 minutes fromPort of Spain. All 40 rooms have privatebalconies with sea views, two queen sizebeds, a/c and bathroom. Meals are simple buthearty Caribbean fare with produce supplieddaily from the local fishing village.

Driving south from Port of Spain, the scenery changes asyou approach Waterloo, through avenues of tall palmsbetween fields of sugar cane and grazing water buffalo.The Temple-in-the-Sea at Waterloo is a white domedHindu temple built on tidal flats and reached by a pier.Its prayer flags and funeral pyres are a reminder of therich cultural mix of Trinidadian society.

Continuing south on Trinidad’s west coast you reachPointe-à-Pierre Wild Fowl Trust. This is an attractivepark where you can walk along lakeside trails with closeviews of breeding scarlet ibis and other waterbirds, and agreat variety of trees and plants: a photographer’sdelight, particularly when the lotus and waterlilies are inbloom. The Trust is a volunteer organisation involved inbreeding Trinidad’s endangered waterfowl and runsprogrammes for schools and community groups. Permitsmust be arranged in advance.

San Fernando is Trinidad’s second city - a maze ofwinding streets below San Fernando Hill, which offersgreat all round views. As in parts of the capital, keep clearof potentially risky situations on the back streets.

Ask anyone from Port of Spain if they’ve been southbeyond San Fernando and 9 times out of 10 the answerwill be ‘no’, although the journey is less than 60 miles.Southern Trinidad gets along quite independently,with farming and fishing, a little light industry, and oilderricks off the southwest and southeast coast. Itsunstable geology yields some small-scale surprises, withseveral areas of ‘mud volcanoes’ blowing dollops of thickgloop from earthy pimples a few feet high, and theremarkable Pitch Lake - one of three asphalt lakes in theworld. Its tar was used by Sir Walter Raleigh to caulk hisships and is still used on roads around the world. If youexplore it with a guide you will be intrigued by theexperience of walking on it, seeing how the tar is slowlymoving, learning about its long history and how localwildlife has adapted to it. You may even see a fish eaglecooking its breakfast on the hot tar.

Cedros and Icacos on Trinidad’s remote South Coast areaccessed by long empty palm-lined roads stretchingaway to the horizon. Time passes very slowly here. Thewaters of the Orinoco bring good fishing and theprospect of a little smuggling with Venezuela, but leavebeaches and sea an unappetising shade of brown. Erinand Moruga have a similarly remote feel.

Central Trinidad is mostly agricultural, dotted with smallvillages and townships, winding lanes and thetrappings of a rural life: small churches, village schools,and fiercely contested cricket matches.

Trinidad’s East Coast has mile after mile of magnificentwild beaches where lines of Atlantic breakers roll ashoreon fine yellow sand strewn with coconut husks and chip-chip shells, backed by a million tall palms that line theshore. Cocal Beach on Cocos Bay is 4km long, desertedbut for the occasional family of week-enders.

At the end of Cocos Bay a sand spit across the mouth ofthe Nariva River has created Nariva Swamp behind - afreshwater wetland of reed fringed marshes withmangroves edging the more brackish channels. It is animportant habitat for many birds: waders, rails andraptors, and for the endangered West Indian Manatee.At dusk flocks of red-bellied macaws come to roost in astand of royal palms near the shore. Almost surroundedby Nariva Swamp is Bush Bush Sanctuary, a delightfulpocket of hardwood forest and silk cotton trees borderedby moriche palms. Here you can walk on forest trails withgood chances to see Capuchin Monkey, Red HowlerMonkey, Tree Porcupine and perhaps White-beardedManakin at their leks performing competitive acrobaticson the forest floor. On the lane into Bush Bush there is achurch where Christians, Muslims and Hindus take turnsto worship and each faith’s religious symbol is paintedover the door.

In the southeast just beyond Guayaguayare lie theTrinity Hills, named by Christopher Columbus on histhird voyage. Its three peaks were his first landfall, seenjust as his ships were running out of drinking water; hegratefully named the land ‘La Trinite’ or Trinidad.

At Trinidad’s northwest corner lies the ChaguaramasPeninsula. During WWII the peninsula’s natural harbourwas leased to the US Navy. Today the area is a yachts-man’s haven. Thousands of sailing boats moor in themarinas here to avoid the hurricane season in the rest ofthe Caribbean.

The narrow channel between Trinidad and Venezuela isnotoriously rough and is known as Boca del Dragon(‘dragon’s mouth’). A row of rocky islands span thechannel. The well-to-do have homes on the nearestislands and commute to Port of Spain by speed boat.Visitors can take an open boat ‘down de islands’ tonearby Gaspar Grande island and Gasparee Caves, onceused by pirates, where sunlight sparkles on crystals inthe rocks, and a deep pool reflects the bright colours andstrange shapes of stalagmites and stalactites.

Just south of Port of Spain is Caroni Swamp - a ‘must’ foranyone interested in wildlife. In the late afternoon youtake a flat-bottomed boat through the mangrove to seelines of scarlet ibis, herons and egrets coming to roost.The intense red plumage of the scarlet ibis, Trinidad’snational bird, is astonishing and burns itself into thememory. You can also expect to see fiddler crabs, oysters,four-eyed fish, tree boa and spectacled cayman.

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GEODYSSEY www.geodyssey.co.uk Reservations : 020 7281 77886

Trinidad - Port of SpainPractically all visits to Trinidad start at Port of Spain, one ofthe most important capitals in the Caribbean.

Port of Spain is the centre of influence historically,culturally, politically and economically for Trinidad andTobago, and for much of the eastern Caribbean.

The city lies on the Gulf of Paria, under the southwesternedge of Trinidad’s Northern Range. Tucked between thehills and the sea, the centre is small - everywhere iswithin walking distance more-or-less. The suburbsamong the foothills of the Northern Range cover amuch larger area, from Diego Martin to the northwestto Laventille to the southeast.

Port of Spain’s small downtown area contains the maincommercial streets, with the busiest shops onIndependence Square. Woodford Square is the politicalcentre, with the Red House, the seat of T&T’s parliament,along one side. The garden in the square is the settingfor open-air political debate: the topic of the day iswritten on a blackboard each morning. Weekly lecturesin the square by Dr Eric Williams, the father of theindependence movement and the nation’s first primeminister, created this public forum - the ‘University ofWoodford Square’.

The wide open space of the Queens Park Savannah is tothe north and, just to the west, you’ll want to explore thestreets of Woodbrook which mostly date from 1910 or sowhen it first developed as a genteel residential area.Woodbrook is dotted with restaurants and bars, many ofwhich are in small ‘gingerbread’ houses, fringed withfretwork and delicately painted.

Some of the finest examples of this architecture arebetween Woodbrook and the Queens Park Savannah, inthe more upmarket streets of Newtown and St Clair,which date from the turn of the twentieth century. Theseven grandest examples of colonial Victorian houses liein a row along St Clair’s border with the Savannah.

Known as the ‘Magnificent Seven’, the houses are each ina different style but vie to outdo each other in form anddecoration. Brian Lara’s house is perched on a hilloverlooking the Savannah - a gift from a sports-madnation. Nearby are the Botanical Gardens and theimpressive President’s Residence. The leafy suburbs ofSt Ann’s lie behind.

If you are on no more than quick visit, these may be theonly parts of Port of Spain you’ll have time to see.Before getting to know the suburbs around Port ofSpain you’ll want to explore other parts of Trinidad.

CarnivalTrinidad is the birthplace of modern Carnival - a two-dayexplosion of colour, music and non-stop partying beforethe start of Lent in mid to late February.

The original Latin, carne levare, means, “farewell to theflesh”. In 1834 freed slaves celebrated their emancipationby taking to the streets in Trinidad in mimicry of theirformer French slavemasters’ dress at Mardi Gras. Theytook the idea a stage further, adding African drums andgradually Carnival has developed from there. Carnival isnot a parade - you don’t just stand on the side andwatch it go by. Everyone is caught up in the party.

If you go to the actual days of Carnival you could becovering yourself and others in mud, (a symbol of newlife and freedom) at J’Ouvert on Carnival’s Mondaymorning, before dressing in extravagant (or minimal)costume and partying in the streets around the clock.

For those with the inclination but less stamina, thepreparations for Carnival give a good taste of what’s tocome and there are parties galore. From early January anatmosphere of excitement and anticipation starts tobuild. ‘Mas Camps’ are set up: masquerade headquar-ters where competing local organisers create fabulous

colourful costumes from wire, wheels, foil, bamboo,sequins and feathers. There are traditional Carnivalcharacters - devils called Jab Jabs, human donkeyscalled Burrokeets, bandits called Midnight Robbers,clowns called Pierrot Grenade and giants on stilts calledMoko Jumbies. Composers write new pan music andcalypsos, Carnival Kings and Queens are selected, andmusicians gather nightly to practise. The Mas Campshold fêtes - parties to show off their designs in the hopeof adding to their band of supporters. The most popularbands can have as many as 3,000 members: musicians,dancers and partiers. During the days of Carnival theteams compete for the title of best Mas band.

By the second week of January the ‘Tents’ will beopening their doors each night for performances by localCalypsonians. The calypso form is unique to Trinidad. Itsinnocent-sounding songs have an edge - parodyingthe issues and gossip of the day or charged with apolitical, social or cultural message. You should be rightlyflattered if a calypsonian sings a song for you, but listenfor the little jokes about you tucked away in the lyrics.

In the nights of the week prior to the Monday andTuesday of Carnival the Grandstand on Queen’s ParkSavannah hosts the judging of the Kings and Queens ofCarnival and extemporary calypso contests are held.

Trinidad is famous for steel pan music and this comes tothe fore during Carnival with steel bands of up to 130musicians pushed through the streets on trolleys. In therun-up to Carnival the larger steel bands invite thepublic to their ‘Panyard’ for their evening rehearsals.

The most commonly heard street music these days issoca. Soca evolved from calypso in the 70s. It speeds upthe calypso beat, adds a bassline, and a touch of Indiandrumming. Lyrics are less important than creating thatparty vibe for ‘whining’ with your partner. “Hot Hot Hot” isa classic soca tune that everyone knows.

Guest housesThere are several friendly family-run guesthouses that we recommend in and aroundPort of Spain. These are really small 2 or 3*hotels with clean, comfortable bedrooms andprivate bathrooms. B&B is the usual basis.Some have their own restaurants, others willprovide simple snacks on request, a few haveswimming pools. St Ann’s is a convenientresidential area near Queens Park Savannah.Maraval is a quiet suburb on the road toMaracas Bay near St Andrews golf course - a10-15min ride to town by public transport ortaxi.

Alicia’s Guesthouse, St Ann’sVery convenient for town, well run andefficient. 17 rooms of various sizes and styles,

Places to stay

plus a tiny swimming pool. Modest meals canbe provided.

Carnetta’s Guesthouse, MaravalThe two parts of this friendly family run 6room guest house lie either side of theMaraval river. Stepping stones take you fromone side to the other in a small garden ofmixed tropical fruit trees with papaya,bananas, oranges, orchids, ginger lilies andheliconias.

Monique’s Guesthouse, Maraval20 air-conditioned rooms, very pleasantrestaurant in a garden setting surrounded bylush tropical greenery. Not recommended ifyou object to birds kept in cages.

HotelsChaconia Inn, MaravalA/c suites, swimming pool, and a choice ofrestaurants - one serving Caribbean andcontinental dishes, the other a roof-top grillwith barbecue and local favourites. Half-waybetween a guest house and a hotel.

Normandie Hotel, St Ann’s53 a/c rooms on two floors, forming a centralcourtyard with a swimming pool, most roomshave balconies overlooking the pool. There is arestaurant, café, shopping arcade, handicraftsmarket, art gallery and bar. Elegant receptionthough tired décor in the rooms.

Trinidad Hilton, St Ann’s394 a/c rooms each with satellite TV plus a

Trinidad

private balcony with panoramic views acrossQueen’s Park Savannah. Amenities include a25m swimming pool, table tennis, twofloodlit tennis courts, restaurant, 3 bars, gym,shopping arcade, business centre, and 25acres of landscaped gardens.

Kapok Hotel, St Clair10 storey luxury hotel with recentlyrenovated a/c bedrooms, wine and coffeebars, computer room and email, gym andpool, sundeck, shops and panoramicelevator. Rooftop ‘Tiki Village’ restaurant hasa chinese/polynesian menu and a greatview over the Queen’s Park Savannah.Walking distance from the ‘MagnificientSeven’ and the Botanical Gardens.

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GEODYSSEY www.geodyssey.co.uk Reservations : 020 7281 7788 7

Now to Tobago, starting with its North Coast - the prettierand less developed part of the island. The drive northfrom Roxborough on Tobago’s eastern shore (the Atlanticor windward side of the island) passes King’s Bay, a classichorseshoe Caribbean bay with coconut trees fringing asandy beach, once the site of a large Carib settlement.The road winds through lushly forested hills ofabandoned teak, mango, cashews and cottonsilk trees toa great lookout over the northern part of the island.Speyside can be seen below, then Tyrell’s Bay, Goat Islandand Little Tobago.

SpeysideThis is a quiet fishing village which until ten years agowas reached by little more than a dirt road. Over theyears a few good quality, characterful hotels have beenestablished, principally for divers and birdwatchers, butalso suitable for people who prefer to avoid the resortstyle properties of the south. The pace of life here hasremained attractively slow. There is little to do in theevenings, except perhaps to walk along the road thatfollows the broad sweep of the bay - on a moonlit nightthe view across the water is magical - or lime with localfishermen at one of their rum bars. After a few dayseveryone in the village will recognise you, know whereyou are staying, and, seemingly, all there is to knowabout you!

This area is an excellent base for divers (see page 12). Butyou don’t have to be a diver, or even a snorkeller, to enjoythe colours of the fish on the network of reefs which crossthe bay. Local boatmen offer trips in glass-bottomedboats to Little Tobago Island and the coral reefs. Evenfrom the boat the underwater spectacle is mesmerising,including a huge brain coral , thought to be the largestin the world (3.6m high and 5m across). In August mantarays can even be seen from the jetty in the village.

Set aside time for a leisurely lunch at Jemma’s TreeHouse restaurant. Incongruously positioned in a seafrontalmond tree this place is a local institution. While you waitalmost interminably for the tasty local cuisine there’s agreat view out to Goat Island. The prominent privatehouse that can be seen there was once the holidayhome of Ian Fleming, creator of James Bond.

CharlottevilleCharlotteville lies just 4 miles beyond Speyside, over aridge thick with foliage. Steep cliffs tumbling down to thedeep blue of Pirate’s Bay and Man O’War Bay make thisone of the most picturesque villages on the island.

The fishing here is excellent with over 60% of the island’sentire catch coming ashore here so most village menmake a living from the sea. Though the town has anisolated feel , cruise ships have begun to arrive so thetourist dollar is starting to have a presence in this relaxedand friendly community.

300 years ago Pirate’s Bay was used as a base bymarauding buccaneers for attacks on Spanish galleons

laden with gold from South America. Rumours say there’sstill buried treasure in these ‘ere parts! It has one of theisland’s nicest beaches - a horseshoe of calm emeraldgreen water, fine yellow sand, with a backdrop of lushvegetation, reached by a long flight of concrete steps.

Many visitors stay with local villagers who open up acouple of rooms in their houses during the peak season.Most accommodation is self-catering, but there are only afew very basic grocery stores, plus a post office and gasstation. And there are just a couple of very simple beachtype restaurants. So there’s little to do but relax andenjoy the sea view as frigate birds swoop over the calmCaribbean waters. Man O’War Bay is one of the mostsheltered in Tobago.

The cross-country trail between Speyside andCharlotteville makes a good day-walk. Orchids andbromeliads grow everywhere they can find a hold in thehumid conditions.

Little TobagoThis little island, just a mile across, is a bird sanctuarypopular with walkers and birders. It hosts one of thelargest seabird colonies in the Caribbean and is reachedfrom Speyside by pirogue or glassbottomed boat - a 15minute trip over coral reefs across Tyrell’s Bay, passingLittle Goat Island.

Local guides will lead you up first through fan palmsand gumbo limbo tree forest (yes, that’s right!), then axerophytic area to the scrubby cliffside nesting groundsof the Red-billed Tropic Bird.

These lovely birds can be seen all year round but areespecially prevalent Oct–Jun. From a clifftop vantagepoint, where Sir David Attenborough filmed for ‘TheTrials of Life’, there are great views of them and of othersea birds in flight: brown boobies, bridled and sootyterns, laughing gulls. Magnificent frigatebirds and red-footed boobiescan be seennesting onnearby St Gilesisland wheremuch of thevegetation issmoothedhorizontal by stiffbreezes off thesea. Birds ofParadise, whichwere onceintroduced to theisland, are nolonger present.

Little Tobago wasonce a cottonplantation sothere are good(but very hilly)walking trails.

Places to staySpeysideManta LodgeThe top hotel for divers. Set behind Tyrell’s Bay beach, it isthe only hotel in Speyside with a swimming pool.

Recently built in colonialstyle with the needs ofdivers in mind, it isowned and run by avery experienceddivemaster/instructor.

All 22 bedrooms havetiled floors, sea views and private bathrooms. ‘Standard’rooms have ceiling fans, either twin or a double bed, aprivate balcony overlooking the pool and beyond over thelane out to sea. ‘Superior’ rooms are more spacious andhave a/c. There are two ‘loft’ rooms with private sundecksbetween the pitched roofs. ‘Attic’ rooms have a/c and seaviews but no balcony or sundeck. There is a poolsidedining room and a pleasant shady communal verandawith rattan furniture facing inwards towards the woodedhillside. Birdwatchers can follow nature trails that networkthe hillside grounds.

Speyside InnA seafront hotel in a traditional Caribbean clapboard stylewith gingerbread fretwork. It has only 9 pretty rooms andis a simple, elegant and charming place to stay.

The village roadseparates the propertyfrom the shore ofTyrell’s Bay. Rooms aresimply furnished andhave stylish light paint-work and characterfullyshaped high woodenceilings, with ceiling

fans and louvered window shutters to take advantage ofsea breezes. All have private bathrooms and balconieswith sea views. There are 3 rooms upstairs in the mainbuilding and 2 tower rooms - ideal for romantics. B&B isthe standard basis, but in the high season the hotel chefoffers lunches and dinners. Behind the main house is awooded hillside with 2 self catering cabins in appealingrustic style, with sea views, double beds , privatebathrooms, and a shared kitchen.

Blue Waters InnThe largest hotel in Speyside and the only resort-styleproperty, set around the semi-private and stunningBatteaux Bay, isolated from the village along a small lane

over a headland anddown a steep drive.There are fabulousviews on the way.

There are 38 spaciousstandard rooms withrattan furniture, fans,patio windows and sea

views, 2 one- and two-bedroom self-catering efficiencyapartments, and 3 bungalows with full kitchens. There is arestaurant, bar and dive shop on site, free use of kayaks,wind-surfers, suntanning beds, tennis court, TV room/library and a number of nature trails in the grounds.

At dawn, as the sun rises across the water, or on a moonlitnight, the view across the bay is to die for. The beach isnarrow with soft yellow sand and natural shade undersea-grape trees. At times the onshore breeze can soundlike a gale through the bedrooms’ louvered shutters.

CharlottevilleMan O’War Bay CottagesSet in the gardens of a 1000 acre cocoa plantation areutilitarian, 1, 2, 3 and 4 bedroom self-catering beach-frontbungalows with1950s furniture and twin single beds.Each has a living/dining room, kitchen, bath-room withshower, screened louvered windows, and a large verandawith loungers and BBQ. They suit families or groups ofeasy-going friends.

Two living coral reefs start at the beach and extend about35m offshore – good for snorkelling. Other activities aresunbathing, swimming, and beachcombing. The sand is alittle coarse; bathing near the cottages is safe for childrenif properly supervised. 6 bays are easily accessed by boatincluding Pirates Bay (a 15min walk).

There is a basic provisions shop on site, operating on anhonesty system. For fresh produce you shop inCharlotteville (the choice there is very limited). Cooks,maids and babysitters can be hired. No TVs, radios ortelephones. Book at least 6 months ahead for Nov-May asthey have a high proportion of repeat visitors.

Tobago’s North Coast

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GEODYSSEY www.geodyssey.co.uk Reservations : 020 7281 77888

The south of Tobago is the more heavily developed andpopulated part of the island with the majority of thehotels, car rental companies, restaurants, and craft shops.Geologically it is a flat coral and limestone plateau andthe main beaches here, Store Bay and Pigeon Point havepowder fine white sands. The island’s airport at CrownPoint is almost at the western tip.

Store Bay, two minutes from the airport, is a small beachwith calm, clear, blue-green water and a sandy bottom,located between the Crown Point Hotel and the CocoReef Resort. Behind the beach are a number of food stallsand a craft village selling a range of batiks, jewellery andleather goods. If you’re down at the beach before 8amyou’ll see fishermen pulling seine nets ashore. Boatmenoffer deep sea fishing and morning trips out to the reefsin glass-bottomed boats. There is a lifeguard hut; sunloungers and beach umbrellas are available for hire.There is no natural shade at the beach, in the heat of theday you might cool down a little in the shady gardensaround the ruins of Fort Milford - a good place at sunsettoo. Store Bay is popular among Tobagonians forweekend parties.

Pigeon Point is the most photographed place on theisland with glittering sands set off against a backdrop ofcoconut palms and almond shade trees. Out at seaBuccoo Reef (see below) protects the calm, clear turquoisewater of Bon Accord Lagoon. It’s certainly a beautiful spotand the calm sea is perfect for children - but don’t expectto have the beach to yourself! This is the most commer-cial beach on the island, and cruise ships bring theirpassengers here on day trips. Glass bottomed boats takevisitors out for snorkelling on the reef and swimming inthe lagoon. There are sun shades, public changingrooms, toilets and showers plus numerous snack barsand jet ski, windsurf and dive shops. There’s a small dailyadmission charge to Pigeon Point (currently about £1 foradults 50p for children).

Buccoo Reef is Tobago’s most accessible reef, stretchingall the way from Pigeon Point to Buccoo Bay. It is home to40 species of hard and soft coral, and is rich in marine life,from tiny jewel fish to reef sharks and barracuda. In thepast the coral has been damaged by the dragginganchors of the glass bottomed boats and although theboats now anchor only on dead coral, the live coral is stillbeing damaged by the feet of visitors standing in theshallows.

If you are a novice snorkeller this is a nice place to cometo enjoy a kaleidoscope of tropical fish in shelteredconditions, but please take care to avoid walking on ortouching the living coral. It almost goes without sayingthat visitors should avoid buying coral souvenirs.

Trips to Buccoo Reef usually include the Coral Gardensthen a stop to bathe in the Nylon Pool. Here a largesandspit within the lagoon creates a pool of shallowwater which is luxuriously heated by the sun.

Crown Pointand Tobago’s lowland south

Places to StayKariwak Village, Crown PointIn this individualistic hotel, Allan and Cynthia Clovis set outto create a holistic environment for guests’ mind, body andspirit. Clearly their clients feel the benefit as many returnyear after year. Even the Dalai Lama stayed here.

There are 24 tastefulground level bedroomswith a/c, privatebathroom, queen andsingle beds. Children upto 12 yrs stay free(there is a charge formeals); cots can beprovided.

Set in the compact well-tended grounds are a smallswimming pool, freshwater ponds, thatched dinning room,jacuzzi and waterfall, amid tropical flowers, shrubs andtrees. Set menus emphasise wholesome Caribbeancooking without additives.

The garden also holds a large thatched, open sided ajoupawhere qualified instructors hold 3 classes a week in HathaYoga, Tai Qi, and Qi Gong. There are gentle stretchingexercises 3 mornings a week. None require experience; allages are welcome free of charge. Ayurvedic Marma therapyand Shiatsu massage can be booked at extra cost. The hotelis an active centre for local arts, entertainment, and self-improvement and therapeutic workshops.

Store Bay, the nearest beach, is an 8min walk away. PigeonPoint is an 8min drive away; a vehicle leaves for PigeonPoint each morning at 10am, returning at 4pm.

Hotels in the southern tip of Tobago, like the Kariwak,receive aircraft noise early in the morning (mostly propellerplanes rather than jets). This doesn’t seem to inconven-ience guests, and did not trouble us when we stayed there.

Arnos Vale HotelA rare and winning combination of a high quality small (29room) resort hotel with every convenience, but retainingan old-world character and in lush natural surroundings. Set

in a former sugarplantation, the oldplantation house isset on a hillside withthe lounge, maindining room, bar anda lovely terraceserving traditionalhigh tea.

The rooms are located in bungalows in the sloping gardenor at a beachside block on the secluded Arnos Vale Bay. Allhave a/c, private bathrooms, and verandahs. There is a beachrestaurant and a pool with a swim-up bar. ‘Crow’s NestCottage’ is where Princess Margaret spent her honeymoonand where the Beatles stayed.

There is tennis, and a nature trail through the grounds.Every afternoon at 5pm tropical songbirds fly down to befed by hand.

Arnos Vale Bay is good for snorkelling from the shore, withcoral and fish within 100m. There is a forest of antler coralwhere large schools of blue-striped grunts gather, sea fans,sea whips, multicoloured sponges, boulder star corals,coloured lavender (grey, brown or pale green according tothe covering of algae) and some very large brain corals.Multicoloured parrot-fish, blue tang, doctor fish, sergeantmajors, blue-minnows and damselfish of all sizes andcolours are common. You may well see the showy queenand French angelfish, butterflyfish, trunkfish, triggerfish andtrumpetfish.

Coco Reef Resort, Store BayA luxurious 135 room hotel bordering Store Bay with itsown private stretch of imported white sand behind abreakwater. A spacious reception with atrium, sea view andpale salmon pink walls reeks serious money. Standard

rooms have a largedouble bed, mini bar,remote a/c, TV, radio,hairdrier, bathroomswith tub/shower andtwice daily maid service.Jeans, T-shirts andshorts are discouragedfrom public areas after

7pm. 114 rooms have a sea view. The hotel boastseverything expected in a classy resort hotel – includingchampagne bar, two restaurants, gym, tennis, spa,conference room, dive shop, natural calico sun-umbrellas,boutiques, beauty salon, and baby-sitting service. With agleaming white Rolls Royce Silver Cloud permanentlypositioned at the main entrance it’s a popular place fordeluxe weddings.

For a spot of revelry a Sunday School is held at Buccoovillage on Sunday nights. It’s a wild open air party or fetewhere you can try a spot of wining, skanking and liming tosoca and reggae music at high volume.

ScarboroughScarborough is the largest town, with nearly half theisland’s population. There is a pleasant, well labelledBotanical Garden displaying local brightly flowering treesand flora amid broad sweeps of lawn. Nearby an orchidhouse displays most of T&T’s indigenous species.Scarborough market is an excellent place to examineTobago’s exotic fruit and vegetables and enjoy thestallholders’ sales patter.

Fort King George, set high on Scarborough Hill, gives avantage point over the whole town. Founded by theBritish in 1777 as a barracks and parade ground, it waslater captured by the French then changed handsmany times, as did the island itself.

The hillside gardens around the lighthouse next to thefort are very pleasant, with a lovely orange floweringflamboyant tree and samaan trees festooned withbromeliads. Cannon point out to sea to protectScarborough; away from the town there are great viewsalong a huge stretch of the windward coast. Thesuccession of headlands and bays reaches the horizon.The barrack house now houses the rather charmingMuseum of Tobago History - a collection of shells, pre-Columbian tools, military buttons, tableware from pirateships and colonists, and a host of dusty archaeologicalremnants.

Arnos ValeSet in hills and surrounded by lots of lush and exotictropical flowering plants, this is a pretty spot for a drink ora meal in a popular but touristic restaurant which servesCaribbean cooking. For a spot of plantation era industrialarchaeology there’s the water wheel, pump and enginethat once processed the sugar from the Arnos Valeestate. The hotel by the same name is on a different partof the estate.

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CentralTobagoTobago Forest ReserveDesignated for protection in 1776 this is the oldestprotected rainforest in the western hemisphere, a havenfor 123 butterfly species, 210 bird species, 16 species oflizards and 17 of bats, plus armadillo and forest deer.Much of this mountainous region is difficult to access,but there are several authorised nature trails that leadoff the main road, the most notable being the GilpinTrace. Wildlife expert and local historian David Rooksleads weekly walks on part of the Trace, sharing hisknowledge of the forest’s ecosystem. Several otherregistered natural history guides wait for clients at thetrailhead each day and have been recommended to us.In the forest you will see vivid red heliconia and ‘hot lips’plants, epipytes, orchids, lianas, lichens and mosses, andsome great birds including lovely boot-tailed Blue-crowned Motmots (photo page 15), Rufous-tailedJacamars and very smart Blue-backed Manakins. Thestar find here is the delightful, near endemic White-tailedSabrewing hummingbird which has a display lek nearthe trail.

Argyll WaterfallNear Roxborough is the start of an easy 20min walk on apretty riverside path to the impressive Argyll Waterfall.Pick up an official guide at the entrance, follow the pathpast the ruins of a former plantation house and largestands of bamboo, then pick your way across a series oflarge boulders to a vantage point near the foot of thefalls. The water tumbles in a series of stepped cascades54m into a deep pool where it is possible to take arefreshing bathe, or you can clamber to the top.

Roads in this area can be covered in a vibrant confetti ofdeep orange blossom from the tall immortelle treesintroduced as shade for cacao and coffee.

Unspoilt beaches and coastalvillage lifeTobago’s equivalent of the Amalfi Coast runs along theremote north-west shore. A winding road gives stunningviews out to sea and down to Parlatuvier and Castara,two small fishing villages with horseshoe beaches andglittering bays enclosed by dark green cliffs. Down onthe palm-fringed sands village life dawdles along,fishermen mend nets and wait for the tide to change,pirogues bob in the water, teenage boys lime or playfootball, while hunting dogs nap in the shade.

Hidden from the road between these two villages is thevery quiet and secluded Englishman’s Bay, a crescent ofsand, backed by coconut palms for shade, and calm,deep clear water where there is some good snorkelling.At the last point accessible by paved road on theleeward side of the island, Bloody Bay’s glittering seawas once stained red after an ugly sea battle.

Places to StayRichmond Great House, nr Belle GardenRichmond Great House is like a fascinating eclecticmuseum, crammed with intricately carved chairs, great

wooden chests and allmanner of historicartefacts reflecting thepassion of its ownerProfessor Lynch, anaffable emeritusprofessor of AfricanHistory at ColumbiaUniversity in New York.

He has restored the 1776 plantation house and filled itwith his personal collection from his travels around theworld. Natasia his housekeeper enjoys having visitors tocook for. It’s a charming, quirky, idiosyncratic place to staywhere things will all happen but all in their own time.There is a swimming pool with sun loungers and a tenniscourt. It would make a rather splendid setting for awedding.

Cuffie River Eco Lodge & Nature RetreatA place to stay if you enjoy walking and natural history - alodge set inland in the woods of the Runnymede Valley.The hillside lodge is surrounded by wild heliconias, fresh

mountain streams withbamboo groves andadjoins the TobagoForest Reserve on theMain Ridge. It is reachedby a long, rough accessroad, along the banks ofwhich jacamars nest.There are 10 veryspacious, high ceilinged,guest rooms each withtwo queen-size beds,private bathrooms andbalconies looking onto

the lush vegetation. There are several guest terraces andverandahs.

Fruit tables and nectar feeders entice an impressive listof hummingbirds. There are parrots, tanagers, manakins,trogons and noisy cariacos.

The hotel’s young naturalist, Desmond Wright, is adelightful and knowledgeable guide who won TnT’s 1999Employee of the Year Award.

Guests staying at the lodge have the option of walks inDesmond’s company. There are 5 trails, 3 are good birdingtrails, others are for admiring the scenery including asplendid 50ft waterfall where it is possible to swim.Excursions to the beach can be arranged locally at extracost (the nearest beach, Castara Bay, is a 20min drive).

The owners, Regina and Anthony Sanchez (pictured),have a policy of ‘no cans’ - whatever ingredients they can’tgrow themselves they buy from surrounding villages.They serve hearty portions of home cooked local foodand addictive fruit punch drinks.

Footprints Eco ResortHidden away at Culloden Bay on the island’s leewardcoast, this may be better described as a boutique lodge

with eco credentials.With just 9 roomsFootprints suits thosewho enjoy their owncompany, with plenty ofcreature comforts.

The facilities which sofar exist have beensensitively built using

recycled or sustainable local natural materials. Therestaurant is in the style of a cacao drying shed, so theroof can be slid back for alfresco dining, there arefreshwater and seawater swimming pools, a duck pond, acliff top gazebo for admiring the sunset and a jauntybeach buggy for hire. Self-guided walking and birdingtrails run through the 63 acre hillside site. Snorkelling andnovice diving from the shore are possible in Culloden Bay.The bay is rocky - reef shoes are available on loan.

There are 4 comfortable ‘ocean front’ rooms, all with a/c,en suite garden shower and a deck overlooking the bay. 2are ‘superior’ with king-sized beds, fridge, tea and coffeemaking facilities, others are ‘standard’ with queen-sizedbeds and no fridge or kettle. There is a small selection ofsuites and villas and a ‘Lovers Retreat’ for honeymooners.More rooms are planned.

It will take some time for the additional construction tobe completed and the landscaping of the main site tomature before the results can be fully appreciated.

Mount Irvine Bay HotelA well-established 4* hotel with an 18 hole par 72championship golf course. A polished pink marble foyerwith Louis XIV chairs at attention around the periphery sets

the scene for twoformal dining rooms(hermetically sealedand air-conditioned),an attractive open-airdining area, a largeswimming pool, achoice of 6 bars (onein the pool), and a

spacious garden leading down to Mount Irvine Bay withclipped shrubs and stands of trimmed bamboo.

53 ‘superior’ rooms are in a two story block: tiled floors,spacious bathrooms, twin queen sized beds, a safe, 50channel cable TV, and private balcony overlooking thegarden. More characterful are 46 ‘garden cottage’ roomsscattered through the hotel grounds. Each cottage is splitinto two spacious bedroom units that can interconnect forfamilies etc. Each unit has a simple outdoor kitchenettearea with a fridge, sink, table, chairs and sun lounger, and isscreened by a lattice wall.

The closest beach, Mount Irvine Bay, is a 3min walk throughthe hotel’s gently sloping garden and across a fairly busymain road. It is a public beach with a gently sloping shelf ofgolden sand. The hotel has a snack bar, loungers and sun-umbrellas at the beach, where sea-grape trees also provideshade. There’s good snorkelling and novice diving on theMount Irvine Wall, accessible by shore or boat for brightorange, red and yellow sponges, thousands of Christmastree worms, wrasse and parrotfish. Snorkel gear can berented. Yachts moored in the bay complete the vista.

Guests play golf at a 10% discount; clubs, carts and balls canbe hired locally. A hire car is recommended if you intend toexplore beyond the confines of Mt Irvine during your stay.

Sea Horse Inn, Stone Haven BayA two storey restaurant and cocktail bar set around acourtyard garden on Stone Haven Bay with just 4 guestbedrooms, each with private bathrooms, a/c, fan, andbalcony. 3 are upstairs, 2 open directly to the dining room.Guests with children might book the ground floor roomwhich has a queen-size bed and futon. The beach is a wideswathe of coarse sand with moderately strong surf, theother side of a little used lane. Every Friday night a beachbar puts on a BBQ, accompanied by African drums. The SeaHorse restaurant attracts guests from the large resorthotels which rather dominate the bay.

Blue Haven Hotel, Bacelot BayRecently reopened after an extensive restoration tocombine modern facilities with the style of its 40’s and 50’sheyday when Rita Hayworth, Robert Mitchum and variousroyals stayed. Built on a headland with sea on three sides ina residential area just outside Scarborough. All 41 roomsand 10 suites have private balconies with ocean views,there is a choice of either 4-poster king sized bed or twodouble sleigh beds. There is a swimming pool and asecluded public beach, said to have inspired Daniel Defoe’sRobinson Crusoe.

The Old Donkey Cart, Bacelot BayA characterful small hotel higher above Bacolet Bay. 2 unitsof 10 rooms separated by a horizonless swimming pool.The décor is charmingly eccentric. Rooms are spacious andfurnished with four-poster king-size beds draped withnetting. Jalousied windows and doors bring cool breezes,though the rooms also have a/c and overhead fans. It’s a2min walk to the beach on the sandy crescent bay. Nextdoor is ‘La Belle Creole’ restaurant set in a palm garden.

Enchanted Waters Hotel, nr Mt Irvine BayA practical family-owned hotel attached to a bar andrestaurant. 10 attractive bedrooms with a/c, cable TV andhairdrier, with private balconies onto a central courtyard andswimming pool. Unusually, each balcony has a coveredkitchen area with a sink, microwave, fridge, table and twochairs and a ceiling fan, screened by rush blinds.

The courtyard features adramatic 75ft long curtainwaterfall which imaginativelymasks the sound of passingtraffic on the main road justbeyond the hotel’s walls. Therestaurant has an area fordining al fresco around thepool. The bar and restaurantare popular with non hotelresidents. During the highseason there is usually liveentertainment on Thursdays

(steel band) and Fridays (string band). It is a 10-15min walkalong a busy main road to reach the nearest beach atMount Irvine Bay so you could find a hire car useful.

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GEODYSSEY www.geodyssey.co.uk Reservations : 020 7281 778810

Day 1 You are met on arrival at Trinidad’s Piarco airportby your local guide and driven to our chosen guest-house in Port of Spain, our base for the next six nights.

Day 2 BL Escorted sightseeing in Port of Spain,including the Magnificent Seven, a visit to the BotanicalGardens, a stroll along the Brian Lara Promenade in theheart of the Downtown area, and a call by the OvalCricket Ground. You’ll have the chance to sample somelocal culinary favourites: a fusion of influences from Africa,India and the other communities that have settled here,and fresh tropical fruit drinks. For shoppers there arefabrics, tie-dye tropical fashions, batik swimwear, spices,hot sauces, rum, coffee, preserves, Caribbean music CDs,and more. In the run up to Carnival, from January to midFebruary, there are opportunities to see costume making,and calypso and steel pan practice sessions.

Day 3 BL This morning we head out of the city, drivingsouth to visit the Pointe-à-Pierre Wild Fowl Trust(page 5), then the city of San Fernando - a maze of hillywinding streets built around San Fernando Hill fromwhich there are great views in all directions. We continuesouth to one of Trinidad’s most curious geologicalphenomena, the Pitch Lake.

Day 4 BL Today you’ll be able to practise one of two mainTrinbagonian pastimes. We either go on a River Lime,when friends and families spend the day relaxing andbathing at a scenic riverside spot, perhaps by a waterfall,

with a big pot to cook lunch. Great fun and a goodopportunity to enjoy forest plants, butterflies andbirdsong too. Or Feteing if our visit coincides with one ofthe many Trinidadian religious festivities. Based onAfrican or Indian traditions, fetes usually take place onthe street with lots of music, dancing and food fresh-cooked by stall holders.

In mid afternoon we take boats through Caroni Swamp,following channels in the mangrove forest to widelagoons to see Trinidad’s most famous wildlife spectaclewhen lines of Scarlet Ibis fly in to roost.

Day 5 BL An early start to spend a full day at the worldfamous Asa Wright Nature Centre in the lushrainforest of the Northern Range’s Arima Valley (page 5).

Day 6 BL Today we visit the Chaguaramas Peninsula,taking a pirogue, ‘down de islands’ to nearby GasparGrande and the impressive Gasparee Caves. We returnto the mainland for a late lunch at The Anchorage anelegant open-air restaurant with views out across thenatural harbour with cruising yachts at their moorings.Afternoon free in Port of Spain.

Day 7 BL An early start as we head for the magnificentlywild East Coast, driving alongside long palm-backedbeaches from Manzanilla to Mayaro. Here we visit NarivaSwamp and Bush Bush Nature Reserve (page 5).

If conditions are right we may be invited on a shortkayak trip with a ranger from the Manatee ConservationTrust to an observation tower to glimpse these shy,gentle mammals that once fuelled rumours of mermaids.In the afternoon we follow the east coast northwards tothe quiet village of Grande Riviere, where we stay fortwo nights at Mount Plaisir Estate (page 5) one of thebest places to see leatherback turtles (page 4).

Day 8 B Today you can make a ‘wet’ river walk throughthe forest along the shingle bed of the shallow, clearShark River, or simply relax at the beach in anticipationof a night’s turtle watching (Mar-Aug).

Day 9 B A drive to Piarco airport for the short flight toTobago. From here we take the Atlantic coast road viaFort King George to Speyside and our new base for thenext six nights at the Speyside Inn (page 7). Rest of theday free.

Day 10 BL This morning a glassbottomed boat carries usacross Tyrell’s Bay to Little Tobago Island (page 7). Aswe return to Speyside we pause to see the largest braincoral in the world and the Japanese Gardens coral reef,either through the boat’s glass floor, or if preferred, bysnorkelling (equipment can be hired on the boat).

We take a late lunch at Jemma’s Tree House, a famouslocal restaurant built into an almond tree on the seafrontwith views across the bay to Goat Island and LittleTobago. In the afternoon we’ll drive over a forestedmountain ridge passing from the Atlantic to theCaribbean shore to see Charlotteville - a pretty fishingvillage and the last point on the paved road.

Day 11 B A free day to relax at Speyside, at the beach,exploring local shops, watching for manta rays off thevillage jetty, walking or birding. Snorkelling and novicediving can usually be arranged locally.

Day 12 BL This morning we follow the Gilpin Tracenature trail into the Tobago Forest Reserve. We’ll seebright red heliconias, palms, lianas, epiphytes perched inthe trees, multicoloured butterflies, leafcutter ants, landcrabs, perhaps even bats that fly by day, and some ofTobago’s 3,000 species of orchids. There are manybeautiful songbirds to be found here including the rareWhite-tailed Sabrewing hummingbird. After a picniclunch in the forest there’s a gentle walk along a riversidepath passing mighty stands of bamboo to reach theArgyll Waterfall. It is possible to bathe in the cool watersat the foot of the falls, and clamber by the side of thestepped cascade if you wish.

Day 13 BL Today we explore fishing villages anddramatic scenery along Tobago’s western shore, startingwith pristine Bloody Bay then continuing southwards,to Parlatuvier and Castara Bay. We may have thechance to watch local fishermen land a catch as theyhaul in their seine nets. We’ll visit Arnos Vale (page 8)and return to Speyside.

Day 14 BL This morning we head to the south of theisland to enjoy soft white sands and calm turquoisewaters at Pigeon Point. We take another glassbottomed boat, this time to where we can bathe in thewarm waist deep water of the Nylon Pool. There is anoption of snorkelling at Buccoo Reef. The boat returns toPigeon Point in time for lunch and photographs of thisclassic palm-fringed Caribbean beach complete withthatched jetty. Rest of the day free at Pigeon Point.

Day 15 BT Transfer from Speyside to Tobago’s CrownPoint airport for the short flight back to Trinidad. We’ll callby Pax Guest House on Mount St Benedict for acelebratory high tea before returning to the airport forinternational flights home.

For departure dates and prices please see theBooking Information insert.

Trinidad and Tobago Odyssey

Small group touring

One of the best ways to experience Trinidad and Tobago is in a small group of like-mindedpeople with a local guide. There’s always something happening, lots to see and do, and theguide not only takes care of logistics as you travel, but brings a wealth of insight about theislands and their people. Trinidad and Tobago Odyssey has been designed to make amemorable and relaxing holiday with a leaning towards wildlife, landscape and localcultures. small group tour (min 4 - max 12 people), 15 days, 14 nights

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GEODYSSEY www.geodyssey.co.uk Reservations : 020 7281 7788 11

Mainly wildlifeTrinidadAsa Wright Nature Centreday tourAn early start to spend a full day at the world famous AsaWright Nature Centre in the lush rainforest of the ArimaValley (pages 5 and 14). You don’t need to be a dedicated‘birder’ to enjoy the setting and the abundance of other floraand fauna - butterflies include the very large Blue Morphos,and there’s a possibility of seeing agoutis, pacas, Nine-bandedArmadillos, iguanas and Tegu lizards.

Leatherback Turtles and Trinidad Piping Guan(Mar-Aug) 2 days, 1 nightDay 1 L Follow the east coast northwards to the remotevillage of Grande Riviere, either stopping en route to sightseeor bird, or arrive in time for lunch to spend the afternoon atthe beach or on a ‘wet’ river walk through the forest along theshingle bed of the shallow clear Shark River. Stay at MountPlaisir Estate (page 5), one of the best places to seeleatherback turtles. At the peak of the season (Mar-Aug) it iscommon to see ten or more laying simultaneously (page 4).

Day 2 BL An optional dawn start to photograph any lastturtles as they head back to sea by first light (flashphotography should be avoided). Avid birders can then go insearch of the Pawi or Trinidad Guan, a rare endemic speciesnow only found on this section of the Northern Range.Otherwise return to bed and have a leisurely morning on thebeach or explore the village. Leave after lunch to arrive inPort of Spain in mid-afternoon (or earlier to catch flights toTobago). It is well worth staying on at Mount Plaisir Estate forextra nights.

Pointe-à-Pierre Wildlife Sanctuary,Waterloo and Caroni Swamp day tourMorning drive to Pointe-à-Pierre (page 5 and 15). After lunchstop by the Temple-in-the-Sea at Waterloo to bird the tidalmudflats for herons, pelicans, shorebirds, gulls and terns.

Later in the afternoon visit Caroni Swamp by flat-bottomedboat to see a wide variety of water birds and other wildlife,and the arrival of Scarlet Ibis to roost.

East Coast and Bush Bush Forest Reserveday tourDrive to the east coast and along the beachside road fromManzanilla to Mayaro and inland to Bush Bush Nature Reserve(page 5) for a wildlife walk. Lunch and return to the beach inthe afternoon.

If local conditions are right, you may be invited to make ashort kayak trip with a ranger from the Manatee ConservationTrust. They maintain an observation tower over a favouritepool to which manatee repeatedly return. You may wish tolinger until dusk to watch for Red-bellied Macaws coming toroost, before the drive back.

For further details and prices please see the BookingInformation insert

Mainly touringIndependent Trinidad and Tobago Odyssey15 days,14 nightsA private version of our showpiece small group touringholiday, to suit just 2 or 3 people. It is identical to the itineraryshown opposite, but instead of one guide throughout, youhave different local guides on each island. The tour can starton any day of the week and can be adapted to stay atdifferent hotels or to suit your individual interests.

TrinidadTrinidad Discovery9 days, 8 nightsA private sightseeing tour of Trinidad following the itineraryof Days 1 to 9 of our small group Trinidad and TobagoOdyssey (opposite). It combines well with time at the beachon Trinidad’s northern coast or on Tobago.

Port of Spain and Caroni Swampday tourA morning’s sightseeing tour of Port of Spain (page 6),including the Magnificent Seven, Botanical Gardens, down-town and the Oval Cricket Ground. Lunch, followed by timefor shopping then a late afternoon excursion by flat-bottomed boat to explore Caroni Swamp (page 5) and watchScarlet Ibis fly in to roost.

Pointe-à-Pierre and the Pitch Lakeday tourDrive in the morning to Pointe-à-Pierre (page 5) to strollaround the lakeside paths. Lunch in San Fernando. Continuesouth to the Pitch Lake for a guided tour. Return by road.

Carnival Culture (Jan – Feb)afternoon & eveningThis tour highlights the capital’s fevered preparations forCarnival. It includes a visit to a Mas Camp to see the colourfulcostume designs being made-up, to a steel pan factory, and inthe evening you will visit a Panyard to hear a steel bandrehearse, or a Calypso Tent to hear the calypsonians in song.

Carnival Party Marathon (Feb)6 days, 5 nightsParty till you drop at the mother of all carnivals. A choice of 5-night packages based at a variety of guest houses and hotelsin Port of Spain. Accommodation on a bed and breakfast basiswith daily transfers to the parades, an optional made-to-measure costume for one of the leading parade bands, and aticket to the finals of the Steelpan competition (Panorama).Free each night for intensive partying around the Carnivalstreets, clubs and bars. When the music has finally stoppedtake a ‘recovery trip’ to the beach at Maracas Bay for alegendary Bake ‘n’ Shark lunch on your last day.

TobagoThe Windward Coast to Speysideday tourExplore Tobago’s scenic Atlantic coast, starting with a visit toFort King George above Scarborough (page 8), then stoppingfor a cool fruit punch at the eccentric ‘Historical Café and Bar’ -a brightly painted bamboo shack overlooking Pinfold Baydecked out with home made storyboards describingsnippets of Tobago’s history and folklore. Continue along thecoastal road, stopping at rivers, waterfalls and sleepy villagesuntil you reach Speyside (page 7). Lunch is included atJemma’s Tree House offering a splendid view across Tyrell’sBay to Goat Island. After time to relax and explore Speyside,you are returned to your hotel.

Charlotteville - the Pirate’s Hideaway day tourSuper views as you follow the Atlantic coast, before drivingover a lushly forested pass to the remote fishing village ofCharlotteville (page 7) whose beautiful natural harbour haslong attracted explorers, adventurers and pirates. There’s anopportunity to cool off with a swim in the sea, and to meetand mingle with the locals before lunch in the village. There’smore time to relax and explore Charlotteville before youreturn to your base.

Independent touringand wildlife trips

Independent travel

The Island Circle day tourA great chance for an overview of the whole of Tobago.Starting on the leeward (Caribbean) side of the island you willbe driven north through Plymouth and Arnos Vale, thenthrough Moriah where folk tales and superstition still holdstrong. Next follow scenic cliff top views out over thesparkling Caribbean Sea, by Englishman’s Bay and thepicturesque fishing village of Parlatuvier. The journey thentakes you inland across the spine of the island through theTobago Forest Reserve to the windward Atlantic coast atSpeyside for lunch at Jemma’s Treehouse. Relax and exploreSpeyside, before completing the circle, following thewindward coast road through Roxborough and Scarboroughto your base.

Pigeon Point, Buccoo Reefand Nylon Pool day tourPack your sun lotion, towel and bathing costume for a day atthe beach. You’ll be driven to Pigeon Point in the south of theisland to Tobago’s most photographed beach of fine whitesands. This is the only private beach on the island. Changingrooms and fresh water showers are available, plus sunloungers, sun umbrellas and good quality food stalls.

You’ll be taken by a glass-bottomed boat to swim or snorkelin the warm water of the Nylon Pool and to enjoy the coralreef - suitable for novice snorkelers with shallow, calm, clearwater, but please take care not to tread on living coral. Afterlunch at Pigeon Point the afternoon is free to laze on thesand before being driven back to your hotel.

Touring and wildlifeTobagoLittle Tobago Island and Charlotteville day tourDrive to Speyside to take a glassbottomed boat for a 15minjourney over Tyrell’s Bay past Little Goat Island to Little Tobago,home of one of the largest seabird colonies in the Caribbean.

From the jetty a series of steps take you up the cliff wallsthrough some fairly open woodland interspersed with FanPalms, gumbo limbo trees and Anthuriams where Blue-Crowned Motmots, Blue Grey Tanagers and TropicalMockingbirds can be seen. As you reach the top of the climbthe vegetation changes. The windward side is dominated bycactus and other xerophytic shrubs. It is then a short walk tothe lookout point at the cliff edge chosen for filming seabirds in David Attenborough’s ‘The Trials of Life’. From hereyou can settle down and enjoy good views of Red-billedTropicbirds nesting and in flight below you with MagnificentFrigate birds, gulls, terns, pelicans, and other seabirds. Red-footed Boobies nest on nearby St Giles Island.

On the return journey across Tyrell’s Bay the glass bottomedboat drifts slowly above a beautiful coral garden alive withcolourful fish and over the largest brain coral in the world.

After lunch in Speyside at Jemma’s Tree House you’ll bedriven to the leeward coast over a forest pass of teak, mango,cashew and cottonsilk trees for a short visit to the quietfishing village of Charlotteville before returning to your base.

Tobago Forest Reserve and Argyll Waterfall day tourA morning visit to the rainforest of Tobago’s Main Ridge, theoldest forest reserve in the western hemisphere (protectedsince 1776) for a walk along the Gilpin Trace, an easy trailthrough the lush vegetation. Amid the dense foliage you willfind bright red lobster-claw Heliconias, leaf cutter ants, BlueCrowned-Motmots and Long-tailed Jacamars. There arebutterflies, lizards, snakes and bats active during the daytimebeneath the tree canopy. For birders this route takes us to areliable lekking site of Tobago’s near-endemic hummingbird,the White-tailed Sabrewing.

After a picnic lunch you continue to nearby Argyll Waterfall, a20min riverside walk past mighty stands of bamboo andcoconut palms. The 54m falls tumble down a series of threecascades. It is possible to take a refreshing swim in the deeppool at its base before you return to your hotel.

Create your own T&T holiday by selecting from these guided trips and from the ‘Places toStay’ described on pages 5-9. You can add diving, walking and specialist birdwatching frompages 12-15 and extensions to Venezuela from the back page. Call us for advice andfurther suggestions. The ‘Mainly wildife’ trips include the services of a specialist naturalhistory guide.

Car HireWe can arrange car hire on Trinidad and Tobago - see theBooking Information insert for details.

Driving conditions on Tobago are easy, but take it slowaround the island’s narrow roads. At some of Tobago’shotels we recommend you have a hire car for at leastsome, if not all, of your time.

It is a bit more of a struggle to drive on Trinidad. Roads arebusier and local drivers can be wilder. Take extra care.

Car and driver on TobagoA good way to see Tobago is to hire an accredited car anddriver by the day. Many are trained by the tourist board inlooking after and guiding visitors. They are a font of localknowledge - the island is small and there is not muchthat misses their attention. We can arrange for one of ourregular drivers to pick you up and be at your disposal forfor the day.

GEODYSSEY www.geodyssey.co.uk Reservations : 020 7281 778812

DivingTobago’s location offers some of the most pristineand exciting dive habitats in the world. We offer afull range of dive trips, including 7- and 14-nightpackages based at Manta Lodge (see page 7),during which you can dive not only from Speysidebut all around the island as well. Or we can arrangefor you to dive for just one or a few days while atManta Lodge, or at any other hotel on the island.

Tobago lies at the confluence of the Atlantic and theCaribbean amid a flow of nutrients from the GuyanaCurrent. These warm plankton-rich waters, fed by theOrinoco, are the basis of a flourishing underwater eco-system. Clouds of tropical fish form impressive displaysover thick coral cover; barrel sponges, sea fans and braincorals grow to record breaking proportions. Largepelagics are attracted from the Caribbean and the colderAtlantic waters, most notable of these is the manta ray.

Most dives are drift dives, ranging from gentle drifts thatrequire some swimming to exhilarating roller coasterrides. Dives are usually from open pirogues, thetraditional local fisherman’s craft with a high bow suitedto these waters. As most sites are fairly close-in, dive boatsusually return to shore after each immersion, which canwork well if you have a non-diving partner.

Year-round average underwater visibility is 60ft (18m).Visibility is best Dec-May. Diving is possible all year butnot every site is diveable on any given day. Waterconditions can be rough Jul-Sep, but even then on mostdays your dive company will be able to select at least oneof Tobago’s dive regions with sufficiently calm conditions.There can be a few days of rough seas in December.

Apr–May give the best prospects of calm sea and goodvisibility and this is when the reefs are teeming withspawning fish and recently hatched young.

In Jun–Nov rain runoff can effect underwater visibilityon the leeward (Caribbean) side of the island. Oceancurrents usually clear the water in a couple of days.

For further details and prices please see the BookingInformation insert.

A visit to Tobago can be combined with diving onVenezuela’s Los Roques - a coral archipelago thatranks with Tobago as one of the Caribbean’s bestdive sites. We offer a dive package of 7 nights atManta Lodge and 7 nights at Los Roques.

§ Novice Holds basic scuba certification from an internationallyrecognised agency, dives 1 trip a year or less, has logged less than25 dives in all, has little experience diving in similar waters andconditions, dives no deeper than 60ft (18m)

§§ Intermediate May have participated in some form ofcontinuing diver education, logged between 25 and 100 dives,dives no deeper than 130ft (40m), has dived in similar waters andconditions in the last 6 months.

§§§ Experienced Holds advanced certification, has beendiving more than 2 years with over 100 dives logged, has dived insimilar waters and conditions in the last 6 months.

Pisces rating system

Diving

Tobago DiveSites

A T L A N T I C

C A R I B B E A N

A Selection of Dive Sites

North CoastSpeysideSpeyside is considered to have some of the best sites inTobago. Many divers and underwater photographersreturn year after year. Most of its 25 known dive sites aredrift dives, the most popular are:

1 Kelleston Drain §§ long plain of lush coral which dropsfrom 30ft to 50ft then slopes off steeply. World’s largestbrain coral (12ft x 16ft). Depth: 9-45m (30-50ft)

2 Black Jack Hole § reef drift dive with lots of coral. Blackjacks and cavallis found in abundance, with durgeon,southern sennet, chromis, boga, schools of purple andgold creole wrasse. Depth: 6-21m (20-70ft)

3 Bookends §§ reef drift dive. Thick with colourfulsponges, famous for large tarpons (a tarpon bowl can befound), nurse sharks and turtles. Depth: 7-24m (23-80ft)

4 Flying Manta (Cathedral) § lush reef starting around20ft, nice fish, straight current, manta rays foundseasonally. Depth range: 2-20m (6-66ft)

Manta City between Kelleston Drain and Cathedral.Mantas frolic here Nov-Jun.

5 Shark Bank (South Rock) §§§ an isolated rock subjectto strong and changing currents. Nurse, lemon and blacktip sharks. Depth: 6-30m (20-100ft).

6 Japanese Gardens § slow moving drift dive over oneof the prettiest reefs in Tobago with yellow tube and azurevase sponges, with optional rushing waters of theKamikaze Cut. Depth: 3-18m (10-60ft)

7 St Giles Islands §§ several sites: Sail Rock, MarbleIsland, Washaroo, Rocky Mountain High. Pinnacles, surgechannels. Redspotted hawkfish, spotted eagle rays, hawks-bill turtles, large barrel sponges, midnight parrotfish andrough tailed stingrays. Depth (typical): 9-21m (30-70ft).

8 London Bridge §§§ a natural arch that breaks thesurface - spectacular both above and below water. Needscalm water. Depth: 2-20m (7-66ft).

Charlotteville - Man O’War BayPopular with novice divers the small reef formations foundhere are also good for snorkelling.

9 Long Rock § not a great deal of coral nor sponges, butlots of darting blenny and goby ready to clean the largerfish. Depth: 6-9m (20-30ft)

10 Pirate’s Reef § accessible from shore, poor in coral buta natural fish nursery. Ideal for snorkelling and shallownight diving. Depth: 4-15m (13-50ft)

11 Booby Island (Big Rock) § rubble plain of large rockstopped with small gogonian sea fans and lots of fire coral.Depth: 2-25m (7-82ft)

12 Cardinal Rock §§ a deep dive with vertical walls onthe pinnacle’s seaward side starting above water level anddropping in a series of steps to 42m. Good for turtles,eagle rays and big barracuda. Depth: 7-40m (23-130ft)

West coast13 Wreck of the MV Maverick (Scarlet Ibis) § to §§§A decommissioned passenger ferry scuttled in 1997 lyingupright in 100ft/30m of water about ½mile offshore.Bridge deck at 60ft/18m is accessible to all levels ofcertified divers. Already can see large groupers, lobstersand a large resident jewfish about 100kg. In Jun 99 an 8m(25ft) whale shark, a plankton eater, spent several dayshere.

14 Mount Irvine Wall § Good for snake eels, sea horse,bat fish etc. Depth: 6-12m (20-40ft)

15 Arnos Vale § Lots of interesting nooks and cranniesideal for snorkelling or diving. Plenty of colourful reef fish.Watch for unusual torpedo rays which bury themselves inthe sand at the base of the Sponge and Coral encrustedrocks. Good for night dives. Depth: 2-20m (7-66ft)

16 Sisters Rocks §§§ Five pinnacles rising steeplyfrom the seabed at 36m, separated by surge channels.Good for pelagics - sharks, barracuda, tarpon; hammer-heads are most frequently seen here. Justifies severalvisits. Depth: 6-40m (20-130ft).

South CoastBuccoo Reef: a massive true coral reef of rope, tube andbarrel sponges, with some rare cup coral and red-polypoctocoral, home to thousands of invertebrates, fish andhydroids. Ideal for novice divers and snorkellers.

Columbus Passage: One of the top drift-diving sites in theCaribbean - for experienced drift divers accompanied by anexperienced divemaster with surface marker.

17 Ketchup Reef § Fringing reef. Good for training divesand snorkelling: butterflyfish, angelfish, parrotfish,snappers, grunts and wrasses. Night dives: spottedlobsters, shrimps, snake eels, squirrelfish. Depth: 3-12m

18 Diver’s Dream §§§ 30min SW of Crown Point.Gently sloping rocky ridges from 6m to about 15m withsandy troughs hosting several thousand giant barrelsponges. Typical currents: 1 – 3 knots. Depth: 6-20m

19 Diver’s Thirst §§§ Continuation of the Diver’s Dreamreef, closer to shore. Less powerful current but sweeps to25m. Series of rocky ridges and sandbars starting at 9m.Excellent for giant barrel sponges, reliable for nurse sharksand blacktip reef sharks. Depth: 9-25m

20 Flying Reef §§ 2km offshore, another drift dive witha strong current. Channels through the reef populated bylarge numbers of parrotfish, including rainbow parrotfish.Large schools of southern sennet are common. Depth: 7-20m

21 Cove Reef §§ Larger and deeper version of BuccooReef: steep slope riddled with nooks and crannies hostingall manner of marine life and a combination of living anddead corals. Many small balloonfish, goby, blenny andcleaning stations. Depth: 2-20m

There are 3 key dive areas around Tobago: to the north, west and south. Speyside is your best base if diving is the mainpurpose of your visit to Tobago. Novice or occasional divers can find spectacular dives in easy conditions in the southand at Charlotteville. On our Speyside packages you will be able to dive a variety of sites around the island accordingto your divemaster’s view of weather conditions and your skill.

GEODYSSEY www.geodyssey.co.uk Reservations : 020 7281 7788 13

Trekking, walking & cycling in Trinidad

DaywalksEl Tucuche1 day, strenuousA strenuous and exhilarating trek to the top of Trinidad’ssecond highest mountain (3,100ft). The trail winds firstthrough abandoned cacao plantations, then into therainforest, climbing steadily through mist and montane forestup the challenging west face. If the clouds permit, there areexcellent panoramic views from the summit.

Maracas Beach, Blanchisseuse andMarianne River Walk1 day, easyDrive from Port of Spain to Maracas Bay for a swim, stop atRichard’s Bake ‘n’ Shark, then drive along the coast road to thestart of the walk at the fishing village of Blanchisseuse. ‘Wet’walk along the bed of the shallow Marianne River up tocascades and deep pools below richly vegetated cliffs.

Asa Wright Nature Centre andPetite Marianne Waterfall1 day, easyDrive up through the forested Northern Range to visit theAsa Wright Nature Centre. Then take an easy walk down theMarianne River to a waterfall in the midst of the forest. Picniclunch at the edge of its deep pool: perfect for bathing. Returnto the city by the scenic north coast road, with great views.

Rio Seco River Walk1 day, moderateA long easy trail through epiphyte-rich rainforest, at timesalong the river bed, to reach the Rio Seco waterfall, where youstop for a restful lunch by a deep pool.

Loango Loop1 day, moderateAn interesting drive through the Maracas St Joseph Valley tothe small village of Loango to hike the old Spanish donkeytrail to Las Cuevas bay. The route is through spectacularmontane forest to the saddle below the high cliffs of ElTucuche. Return to Loango along a path through old cocoaand coffee plantations.

Trek to Maracas Beach1 day, moderate/strenuousA morning trekking along a trail first cut during the Spanishcolonial period leading from the Maracas valley along andover the main knife ridge of the Northern Range, withbreathtaking views of the north coast. After a celebratorylunch at Maracas Bay you can reward yourself with anafternoon’s relaxation at the beach before a ride back to Portof Spain. (The super-fit may prefer a quick swim then a hikeback over the mountain).

Though Trinidad is not widely recognised as a destination for walking or cycling there are some goodopportunities for day walks, short treks and bike rides to add to your trip. We’ve chosen a selection from thebest on the island. Keen walkers will want to be out in the hills for most of their stay. For others, walking fora day or a half day adds enormously to your trip to the islands and it’s something we would thoroughlyrecommend. The ‘wet’ walks along very shallow rivers are a particular feature of trekking on the island.There is a choice of grades, from easy rambles to strenuous treks. Experienced local guides are there toshow the way, usually with a ready wit and insights about life on the island. Some have special interests inwildlife or ecology, others are leading members of their local communities.

Trekking, walking and cycling

We also offer a range of day walks, rugged treks andexpeditions in Venezuela, including the classic ‘Trek tothe Lost World’ to the summit of Mt Roraima and ourunique ‘Expedition to Angel Falls’. Details in ourVenezuela brochure and at www.geodyssey.co.uk.

North Coast TrekBrasso Seco to Matelot and Grande Riviere6 days, 5 nights - strenuousThe best trek on the island, the 24 mile trail from Brasso Secoto Matelot, is the focus of this highly recommended trip. Thetrek itself can be covered in a comfortable 3 days. There’stime to enjoy pristine beaches, bathe at the waterfalls, andsavour impressive coastal views, or to take side trails inland.The route follows several old Spanish ‘bench trails’ and thereis a strong sense of the island’s forgotten past. Your guidesmay recount stories from local folklore, or pass on theirknowledge of local ecologies and plants’ healing properties.

Porters, in the form of local village lads, can usually bearranged if requested in advance.

Day 1 LD Depart from Port of Spain to be driven up into theNorthern Range to visit the Asa Wright Nature Centre. Take aneasy walk down the Marianne River to where it meets thePetite Marianne with a lovely deep pool: ideal for a refreshingswim. Just a little further on there is another pool fed by asparkling waterfall. Stay in the village of Brasso Seco – arewarding introduction to rural village life.

Day 2 BLD Set off on a good clear trail into the forest thatwinds northwards, eventually reaching the Jordan River whichyou follow until it joins the Paria River. Just before emergingon stunning Paria Bay you reach Paria Falls - magical in thedappled sunlight of a forest clearing . It is then a short walk toreach the sea at Paria Bay – a pristine wilderness beachbacked by palms. Camp here overnight. At night betweenMarch and August leatherback turtles come to this beach tolay their eggs.

Day 3 BLD The trail rambles over a succession of small ridgesand down to the sea again at Grand Tacarib. Camp hereovernight.

Day 4 BLD We walk good forest trails to Matelot village, fromwhere we will be transferred to nearby Grand Riviere. Staytwo nights at the Mount Plaisir beachfront lodge (page 5)near the edge of the rainforest.

Day 5 BD A well deserved day to relax in the sleepy fishingvillage of Grand Riviere. In season leatherback turtles comehere in great numbers to lay their eggs. Optional ‘wet’ walkalong the Shark River.

Day 6 B Morning return to Port of Spain or Piarco airport.

CyclingCycle the Northern Range3 days, 2 nights. Cycles are supplied.Exhilarating but strenuous cycling. Cross the Northern Rangeon mountain roads through the rainforest, swim beneathwaterfalls, experience rural village life and enjoy unspoiltCaribbean beaches along the rugged north coast.

Day 1 LD Cycle winding forest roads through the northernhills to the high pass just below Morne Bleu and coast downthe breathtaking descent to remote Brasso Seco village.

Then take a dirt trail to visit Soho waterfall before returning tothe village for a night in a very simple local homestay for anunderstanding of rustic village life.

Day 2 BLD Cycle on to Blanchisseuse on the north coast,stopping for a river walk to another hidden waterfall and arefreshing swim in a clear pool.

We spend the night at the Laguna Mar (page 5) set behind asplendid long sandy beach with great views along thismagnificent stretch of coast.

Day 3 BL Cycle westwards along the impressive north coastby long golden crescent beaches separated by rugged rockyheadlands.

Bathe at Las Cuevas Bay and sample the bake ‘n’ shark atMaracas Bay, where we dismount for the last time beforedriving back over the Northern Range and down into Port ofSpain.

Cycling the East Coast3 days, 2 nights. Cycles are suplied.Cycling on flat roads through the coconut plantations whichline the whole east coast. Includes an easy hike to the BushBush Sanctuary within the Nariva wetlands. Your accommoda-tion is at local guesthouses or apartments.

Day 1 LD Cycle along Trinidad’s east coast, past mile after mileof impressive windswept beach fringed by coconut palm.Pass the mangrove wetlands to reach our accommodation inMayaro for two nights, where surf rolls ashore along a six milebeach.

Day 2 BLD Visit a mud volcano then walk into the Bush BushSanctuary (page 5) encircled by the Nariva wetlands. A goodplace for wildlife and birdwatching.

Day 3 BL Cycle back northwards, through tiny villages wheremany aspects of the island’s traditional way of life are stillpractised. Rejoin your support vehicle and arrive back in Portof Spain in the late afternoon.

For further details and prices please see the BookingInformation insert.

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GEODYSSEY www.geodyssey.co.uk Reservations : 020 7281 778814

The Birds of Trinidad & TobagoA 15 day/14 night private birdwatching tour with expertlocal bird guides.

This itinerary can be modified to suit the number of daysyou have available, your accommodation preferences andspecial interests.

Day 1 D Arrival in Trinidad You will be met at Piarco airportby your local bird guide and transferred to your chosenaccommodation for the first 9 nights. This might be AsaWright Nature Centre, Pax Guest House , or a hotel or guesthouse in Port of Spain (see pages 5 and 6).

Day 2 BLD Orientation If staying at Asa Wright Nature Lodgethen spend a full day’s guided birding there, including a visitto St Dunston’s Cave to see the remarkable Oilbird colony. Ifstaying at Pax Guest House or in Port of Spain spend the daybirding Mount St Benedict.

Day 3 BLD Early morning birding at Aripo AgriculturalResearch station. In the heat of the day retreat to the cool ofthe Heights of Aripo T&T’s highest mountain at 3,000ft, insearch of White Hawk, Common Black Hawk, Violacious andWhite-tailed Trogons, Purple Honeycreepers, Turquoise andSpeckled Tanagers.

Day 4 BLD Bird along the lushly vegetated Arima/ Blanchi-sseuse Road and Lalaja Road for forest-dwelling species ofthe Northern Range.

Day 5 BLD Visit the Caroni ricefields, Pointe-à-Pierre WildfowlTrust, and the tidal mudflats at Waterloo. In the late afternoontravel by boat through the Caroni Swamp for stunningdisplays of Scarlet Ibis.

Day 6 BLD A full day’s birdwatching at Asa Wright Centre inthe Northern Range. In addition to the excellent birding youmay come across Agoutis, Tegu Lizards and Trinidad Squirrels.

Day 7 BLD A dawn start at Cumuto for large flocks of Red-bellied Macaws, close up in great light, and SulphuryFlycatcher, then drive down the East Coast to Manzanilla andNariva. Option of lingering till dusk to enjoy the Nariva Red-bellied Macaws come to roost in the ‘melon patch’.

Day 8 BLD Birding the Valencia Stretch then the CumacaValley mountains, a productive area for montane forestspecies.

Day 9 BLD Round up day. The itinerary will depend upon whatyou’ve already seen and what your preferences are.

If you have chosen to stay at Pax Guest House you may wishto visit the Caves of Aripo to see Oilbirds (only residents of AsaWright for 3+ nights are allowed to see the colony at StDunstan’s Cave). Otherwise, you may wish to return to a site,or perhaps visit somewhere new such as Waterloo and Point-à-Pierre Wildfowl Trust or Wallerfield.

If rising at 3am is an option, you could travel to Toco on thenorth east coast of Trinidad in search of the ‘Pawi’ or TrinidadPiping Guan.

Day 10 BL After a relaxed morning’s birding at your basetransfer to Piarco airport for a short flight to Tobago. Thenbirdwatch en route to your next base - we recommend a stayin the characterful fishing village of Speyside on the island’snorth east tip, either at Blue Waters Inn or Speyside Inn. Bothhotels have wooded gardens and super views across Tyrell’sBay to Little Tobago Island.

Day 11 BL Birding at Buccoo Lagoon and then the GraftonEstate for Tobago’s national bird, the Rufous-VentedChachalaca or ‘Cocrico’.

Day 12 BL Birding on the Arnos Vale Estate.

Day 13 BL Follow the Gilpin Trace a trail in the Tobago ForestReserve for the near-endemic White-tailed Sabrewing.

Birdwatching on Trinidad & TobagoTrinidad and Tobago make a splendid introduction to the bird families of South America and provide one of the most unforgettable avianspectacles when the Scarlet Ibis come to roost in Trinidad’s Caroni Swamp. Physically and biologically, the two islands are quite different.Together they offer a wide variety of habitats with montane and lowland rainforest, elfin forest, savannah grassland, fresh and saltwaterswamp, freshwater reservoir, ocean beaches, open ocean and coral reefs. It is relatively easy to access many of the bird-rich habitats.

The proximity of the Venezuelan mainland (just 7 miles from Trinidad) and the diversity of habitats explains why so many neotropical birdfamilies are represented here, including toucans, motmots, manakins, cotingas, woodcreepers, jacamars, parrots, tanagers, honeycreepers,hummingbirds, antthrushes and oropendolas. The diversity within these families is less than on the South American continent, so newcom-ers have the opportunity to assimilate each new group without being overwhelmed. Over 430 species of birds have been recorded on theislands, of which about 250 are known to breed. There is one endemic, the very rare Trinidad Piping Guan.

Most birding takes place on Trinidad, but many people like to include a few days on Tobago where there are 13 species which do not occuron Trinidad. The key birding sites are listed opposite. We offer five ways to bird Trinidad and Tobago:

S Private birdwatching tours led by an expert local ornithologist, e.g. the 14 night The Birds of Trinidad & Tobago below.

S Regular 7-night escorted small group birding tours of Trinidad run by Pax Guesthouse - see Pax’s Trinidad

S Stay at Asa Wright Nature Centre and Lodge andand take their regular guided birding trips around Trinidad.

S Take a tailor-made tour with Roger Neckles, one of the leading wildlife photographers in the Caribbean.

S Do-it-yourself, hiring a car and staying at Pax, Asa Wright or a variety of local hotels.

Day 14 BL After birding along the breathtaking North Coastyou will take a glass bottomed boat to bird Little TobagoIsland. The journey lasts about 45min and takes you over apristine coral reef. Jewelled fish and the largest brain coral inthe world pass beneath the boat. There will be an opportunityfor snorkelling if you wish.

Day 15 B a.m. free, p.m. transfer back to the airport for aflight to Trinidad, in good time for onwards flights home.

Pax’s TrinidadAn 8 day/7 night small group birdwatching tour run by PaxGuest House (pages 5 and 15), led by expert local guides.Generally starts on the first Saturday of the month. Trip listsare usually between 140 and 190 species. You should seeover 100+ life birds if this is your first visit to the neotropics.

Located high on a hill in the grounds of a Benedictinemonastery, Pax has the forests of the Northern Range atits rear and magnificent views across the plains to thesouth. It is well placed for day trips to most parts ofTrinidad.

Day 1 D Arrival in Trinidad You will be met on arrival andtransferred to Pax Guest House in time for a welcoming rumpunch, dinner and a brief introductory gathering to outlinethe week ahead.

Day 2 BLD Orientation Day on Mount St Benedict Themorning walk on the Estate introduces you to over 40 neo-tropical species in just a few hours. 11 species of humming-bird have been recorded on the hummingbird trail. Spendtime on the Avian Terrace for up to 12 different raptors. Theafternoon walk will be along roads and on to the Alben Ride.

Day 3 BLD Birding the East Coast: Aripo AgriculturalResearch Station, Manzanilla Beach, Nariva Swamp,lingering until dusk for the Red-bellied Macaws.

Day 4 BLD Birding the Northern Range: visiting Asa WrightNature Centre for the splendid array of species coming tothe balcony feeders, with a guided tour along well laid outtrails. Picnic lunch in the grounds with Grey-rumped andBand-rumped Swifts flying overhead, then climb furthernorth along the Blanchisseuse Road to try for species foundat even higher altitudes.

Day 5 BLD Birding the Arena Lowland Forest , SewagePonds and Wallerfield for night birds

Day 6 BLD Birding the West Coast – Caroni ricefields, tidalmudflats at Waterloo, Point a Pierre Wildfowl Trust andCaroni Swamp for Scarlet Ibis.

Day 7 BLD Round up day. Some may choose to take time outto shop in Port of Spain or relax at the beach while the othersrevisit a key birding site.

Day 8 BL No planned birding today, although the guide will beavailable to bird the trails of Mt St Benedict. Drive to PiarcoAirport for your flight home (usually in the early evening).

Or transfer to Toco to start an optional three night extensionfor Trinidad Piping Guan, Oilbirds in the Cumaca Caves andTrinidad’s North Coast. This is based at Esterel Pax’s “soon-to-be-completed” sister lodge on the beachfront at Cumana Bay,designed to suit both birders and their non-birding spouses.A swimming pool and spa are planned, and all rooms willhave private balcony with ocean or garden view, a/c andprivate bathrooms with jacuzzi.

This is a ‘hot spot’ for sea-bird migration in spring and Nearcticmigrants in autumn. Leach’s Petrel can occur in the rightconditions. Leatherback Turtles lay on local beaches Mar-Aug.

For further details and prices please see the BookingInformation insert.

Asa Wright Nature CentreAny number of nights.

Nestled at the head of the Arima valley, surrounded bypristine tropical rainforest, Asa Wright has a conservationand study centre for professional and amateurnaturalists. Over 170 bird species have been recorded atthis former coffee-cacao-citrus plantation. Many speciescan be seen from the verandah of the main house,visiting the nearby fruit tables and nectar feeders, oralong the numerous trails that cross the estate. TheLodge has 24 ensuite bedrooms, mostly in cottages inthe gardens near the main house. All have privateverandahs. Each day Asa Wright offer optional guidedbirding trips to other parts fo the island (minimum of 3participants). Only guests staying at the Lodge for 3nights or more are shown the Centre’s own Oilbird cave.

Do-it-yourselfWith a flight, hire-car, some pre-booked accommodation,a guide book and a field guide, you are all set for yourown birding trip. We’ll help you to design your trip andtake care of the arrangements - leaving you to do thebirding.

Venezuela birdwatchingextensionsVenezuela offers some of the best birdwatchingexperiences in South America, with a rich avifauna (1,360species), a great many unusual endemics andspectaculars, a wide range of habitats, good accessibility,and an excellent field guide.

As the leading travel company for Venezuela, with astrong team of locally based ornithologist guides, andlong experience of arranging successful birding trips toall the key birding sites in the country, Geodyssey is wellplaced to help you supplement your birding in Trinidadand Tobago with a visit to Venezuela.

Call us for details, ask for our Venezuela brochure, or visitour website at www.geodyssey.co.uk.

Birdwatching

When to Bird on T&TGood field observations can be made on Trinidadand Tobago throughout the year.

The January to March dry season is the peak time forgeneral tourism to the islands and coincides with thepresence of North American migrants. At this time ofyear it is not uncommon for lodges to be fully bookedmany months, even years, in advance.

At other times availability is better, prices aregenerally lower and the birding is nearly as good.July and August are good for South Americanmigrants moving north to escape the southernwinter and resident birds are breeding and in song.The weather at this time of year is generally warmwith some short intermittent showers.

Between March and August is the season forleatherback turtles to come ashore on Trinidad’snorth eastern beaches to lay their eggs (see panel onpage 4). The opportunity to see them can beincluded in any birding trip.

GEODYSSEY www.geodyssey.co.uk Reservations : 020 7281 7788 15

Roger NecklesNatural HistoryPhotographyRoger has guided natural history tours of Trinidad andTobago for individuals and small groups of all ages formany years and gets as much fulfilment introducingnewcomers as he does when escorting seasonedneotropical photographers.

He is the official photographer and public affairsconsultant for the Caribbean Region of the InternationalFund for Animal Welfare (IFFAW). It’s his breathtakingphotos of Trinidad’s birds, flora and fauna that you seedisplayed in the airport departure lounge on Tobago. Hisbeautiful shot of a White-tailed Sabrewing humming-bird perched on a luscious red heliconia flower featuredin the National Geographic in 1994.

A trip with Roger is not only filled with wonderful birds,but it’s also terrific fun! Passionate about his subject andfull of humour, Roger is a font of delightful anecdotesabout the birds and animals he is dedicated tocapturing on film. He verbally coaxes his subjects -which has gained him the reputation of beingsomething of a Dr Dolittle.

Whether your trip is for birdwatching, bird photographyor natural history photography as a single traveller,couple or small group, we can tailormake an itinerary tosuit with Roger as your guide.

TrinidadAripo Agricultural Research Station open savannah,wet pastures, hedgerows and isolated trees. Typical:Savannah Hawk, Wattled Jacanas, Green-rumpedParrotlet, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, White-headed Marshand Pied Water Tyrants, Grey Kingbird, White-wingedSwallow and Red-breasted Blackbird. WinteringAmerican shorebirds are often found in the wetter areas.In season: Solitary and Least Sandpipers, SouthernLapwing and Stilt Sandpipers. Also a chance of CocoiHeron, Striped Cuckoo and Pinnated Bittern.

Heights of Aripo, El Cerro del Aripo - T&T’s highestmountain at 3,000ft. White Hawk, Common Black Hawk,Violacious and White-tailed Trogons, PurpleHoneycreepers, Turquoise and Speckled Tanagers.

East Coast – Manzanilla and Nariva Swamp longwindswept beaches backed by coconut palms,mangrove fringed streams, shallow freshwater swamp,rice and water melon fields. Typical: MagnificentFrigatebirds, Brown Pelicans, Common Black Hawk,Yellow-headed Caracara, Bat Falcon, Red-rumpedWoodpecker, Black-crested Antshrike, American PygmyKingfisher, Silvered Antbird, Striated Heron, AmericanPurple Gallinule, Red-breasted and Yellow-hoodedBlackbirds, Shiny and Giant Cowbirds, Pinnated Bittern,Long-winged Harrier and Azure Gallinule. Red-belliedMacaws come to roost in a roadside group of palms.

Northern Range forested hills crossing the width of theisland, here one finds a wide variety of species notnormally seen at lower elevations. From lookout points onthe Arima-Blanchisseuse Road and Lalaja Road lookfor Double-toothed Kite, Channel-billed Toucan, Black-tailed Tityra and Ornate Hawk Eagle; Golden headedManakin; Blue-headed Parrot, Rufous-tailed Jacamar,Slaty-capped Flycatcher, Red-legged Honeycreeper,Speckled and Hepatic Tanagers.

Asa Wright Nature Centre is in this area, its birds ofgreatest interest include White-necked Jacobin, CollaredTrogon, Blue-crowned Motmot, Chestnut Woodpecker,Great Antshrike, Bearded Bellbird and Oilbird.

Arena Dam for Grey Hawks, Plumbeous Kites, White-bellied Antbird, Squirrel Cuckoo, Marsh and WaterTyrants, Osprey, Neotropic Cormorants, Tree Ducks,Yellow-Rumped Caciques and Rufous-tailed Jacamar.

Arena Forest (lowland forest) search first for Yellow-rumped Caciques and Piratic Flycatchers. In the forestproper are Squirrel Cuckoo, White-tailed and ViolaceousTrogons, Lineated and Golden Olive Woodpeckers, PlainAnt Vireo, White-bellied Antbird, Spectacled Owl, GreenHermits.

Continue to Tricity water treatment plant for LeastGrebe, Little Blue and Striated Herons and Snowy Egret,Yellow hooded Blackbirds, Shiny Cowbirds, Yellow Orioleand wintering and migrating American shorebirds,Lesser and Greater Yellowlegs, Spotted Sandpiper andBlack-necked Stilts. And, with luck, Ringed Kingfisher andMasked Duck.

Wallerfield a disused airfield in the Aripo Savannah.Typical: Pale-vented Pigeon, Fork-tailed Palm Swift,Sulphury and Bran-coloured Flycatchers, MaskedYellowthroat, White-tailed Goldenthroat, Moriche Orioleand occasionally Crimson-crested Woodpecker. Good fornight birds: Pauraque, White-tailed Nightjar, NacundaNighthawk, Tropical Screech Owl and Barn Owl.

The West Coast ricefields, tidal mudflats, a wetlandreserve, and swamp can all be visited in one hectic day.The Caroni ricefields can produce Limpkin and Long-winged Harrier. The tidal mudflats at Waterloo offerNeotropic Cormorant, Brown Pelican, Tricoloured Heron,Little Blue and Great Blue Heron, Striated Heron, Yellow-crowned Night Heron, Snowy and Great White Egret,Semipalmated Plover, both Yellowlegs, Solitary, Spotted,Semipalmated and Western Sandpipers, Laughing Gulls,Large-billed and Yellow-billed Terns and American BlackSkimmers.

Pointe-à-Pierre Wildfowl Trust has a breedingprogramme for Scarlet Ibis and Whistling Ducks; otherspecies found here include Saffron Finch and Red-

capped Cardinal, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Grey-necked Wood Rail, Anhinga, Black-crowned Night Heron,Osprey and Ringed Kingfisher.

Caroni Swamp is home to several mangrove specialities:Grey Pottoo, Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Black-crestedAntshrike or Bicoloured Conebill. It hosts the big event ofTrinidadian birding - the dusk arrival of Scarlet Ibis andherons in large numbers returning from feedinggrounds in Venezuela.

Mount St Benedict is a 600 acre estate of mountainsand valleys, with habitats ranging from rainforest to pineforest to cocoa and coffee plantation, all easily accessibleon a series of nature trails. This is where Pax GuestHouse is situated. The owners have established ahummingbird trail where 11 species have beenrecorded. In just a few minutes Long-billed Starthroat,Green Hermit, Tufted Coquette, Copper-rumpedHummingbird, White-chested Emerald and Ruby-topazHummingbird can be seen on flowering bushes andfeeders. Up to 12 raptors can be readily seen from theAvian Terrace, including Turkey Vultures, Ornate Hawk-Eagle, Common Black Hawk, White Hawk, Short-tailedHawk, Grey-headed Kite, Double-tooth Kite. The AlbenRide trail has flycatchers and seedeaters. Excursions intothe forested hills above Pax produce Rufous-breastedHermit, Violaceous and White-tailed Trogons, Buff-throated Woodcreeper, White-flanked Antwren, Golden-headed and White-bearded Manakins, Rufous-breastedWren, Long-billed Gnatwren, Tropical Parula, SouthernBeardless Tyrannulet, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, BlueDacnis, Trinidad Euphonias and White-shoulderedTanagers. At the end of the day you can hope to see orhear Little Tinamou, Orange-winged Parrot, Saltators,Scaled Pigeon, Pauraque, Tropical Screech-Owl,Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, Yellow Oriole and LesserSwallow-tail Swift.

Valencia Stretch open scrub near sand and gravelquarries. Typical: Masked Yellowthroat, Stripped Cuckoo,Plain Breasted Spinetail, Greyish Saltators and PeregrineFalcons.

Cumaca Valley mountains, a productive area formountain forest species e.g. bellbirds, woodpeckers,Zone-tailed Hawk, Blue Dacni, Collard Trogon, GreenKingfisher, toucans, White-flanked Antwren and manymore.

Toco on the north east coast of Trinidad in search ofT&T’s only endemic, the ‘Pawi’ or Trinidad Piping Guan.

TobagoGilpin Trace a trail in the world’s oldest rainforest reserve,the Main Ridge. Home to one of the rarest Humming-birds, the White-tailed Sabrewing which was rediscov-ered on T&T after Hurricane Flora in1974.

Also for Blue-Backed Manakin (Tobago’s only manakin),White-throated Spadebills, Rufous-breasted Hermit andWhite-necked Jacobin.

Arnos Vale Estate for the Blue-crowned Motmot (aka‘King-of-the-Woods’), Rufous-Tailed Jacamar, White-winged Becard, Yellow-breasted Flycatcher, Red-crownedWoodpecker, Green-rumped Parrotlet and BarredAntshrike.

Little Tobago Island which featured in ‘The Trials of Life’is reached by glassbottomed boat from Speyside.Overlook the nesting ground for Red-billed Tropicbirds,and wheeling displays of Brown and Red-footed Boobies,Royal, Bridled, Sooty and Sandwich Terns and Magnifi-cent Frigatebirds.

Buccoo Lagoon a mangrove lagoon, for White-neckedHeron, Mangrove Cuckoo, White-Checked Pintails, Blue-winged Teals, and Yellow-Crowned Night-herons.

Continue to the Grafton Estate for Tobago’s nationalbird, the Rufous-Vented Chachalaca (or ‘Cocrico’) plusWhite-Fringed Antwrens, White-tipped Doves, Stripe-breasted Spinetails and Scrub Greenlets.

North Coast for seabirds, parrots, Yellow-Crowned Night-Herons, Great Black Hawks, Short-tailed Hawks, LaughingGulls, Least and Royal Terns, Streaked Flycatchers, Brown-crested Flycatchers, and Plain Antverios.

Key birding siteson Trinidad & Tobago

Birdwatching / Natural History photography

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Venezuela extensions from Trinidad & TobagoFor a holiday with a difference, why not travel beyondTrinidad and Tobago to Venezuela, for spectacular landscapes,impressive wildlife, great beaches and vibrant latin americanculture. Some airlines’ transatlantic flights to Trinidad can beextended to include Caracas at little extra cost.

Venezuela combines a long Caribbean coast - more than allthe Caribbean islands put together - backed by a successionof colourful and varied regions from the driest of deserts to thelushest of cloudforests. To the west lie the northernmostcordilleras of the Andes, with peaks rising to 16,000ft. Thegrassland plains of the Llanos make up the centre of thecountry. Flooded for part of the year and baked dry for the rest

it is one of South America’s most important wildlife areas. TheOrinoco, one of the world’s great rivers, crosses Venezuelaentering the Atlantic via a massive delta. To its south lie therainforests of Amazonia, and the Gran Sabana: a unique ‘lostworld’ of ancient table mountains above savannah and forest.

As we were going to press a new 4 hour ferry service wasstarting between Trinidad and Guiria on Venezuela’s lush Pariapeninsula, near one of our favourite beach spots in Venezuela,where you stay on a little chocolate hacienda in cool hills, withdaily trips to some of the best beaches in the Caribbean.

For more information, please ask for our full Venezuelabrochure or visit our website at www.geodyssey.co.uk.

The university city of Mérida, capital ofVenezuela’s Andes, lies beneath a backdrop of5 snowy peaks, reached by the world’s longestand highest cable car. Around Mérida thescenery changes at every turn. From lush cloudforests, around a corner you might find dry cactiand scrub. Take the road north and coffeehaciendas give way to the dramatic high moorsof the paramó, while little tracks lead to quietvalleys where stonewalled fields are stillploughed by oxen.

The heart of Venezuela - grasslands that floodin the spring rains but are baked dry whendrought returns. Wide skies, slow rivers, plainsstretching to every horizon; home to a greatvariety of wildlife and to hard-working cowboyswho have raised cattle here on horseback forgenerations. Great for neotropical wildlifeincluding capybara, cayman, anaconda,anteater, armadillo, piranha, freshwater dolphin,and giant river otter, plus large flocks ofwaterfowl and hundreds of different species ofbirds.

An intricate maze of narrow creeks andchannels around thousands of islands of palmforest and mangroves, creating a remote andtimeless world. The central area, the size ofWales, is home to the 20,000 strong Waraopeople whose way of life is adapted to theirunusual homeland. Their palm thatchedhouses on tall stilts cope with changing waterlevels and everyone travels about by dugoutcanoe. Stay in well-established lodges with riverexcursions to discover the area and its wildlife.

An archipelago of pristine coral islands ofpowder-soft white sand beaches, set in shallowemerald and turquoise waters, with consistenthot sunny weather. Just one of the 55 islands isinhabited: 3 streets of bright whitewashedcottages, tiny shops, and a choice of well-keptguest houses. Sunbathing, windsurfing andsuperb scuba in natural conditions. TheCaribbean’s oldest and largest marine nationalpark, Los Roques is a pristine paradise that isnow starting to feature in the leading stylemagazines.

116 Tollington Park London N4 3RB Email: info@geodyssey.co.ukGEODYSSEY Tel 020 721 7788 www.geodyssey.co.uk

Our 7 day/6 night Andes extension includes flightsfrom Port of Spain via Caracas to Mérida, where youstay at a comfortable 3* hotel. Included are tours ofthe city and the colonial village of Jají, a visit to aworking coffee hacienda and a trip by cable caramong the high peaks of the Andes. You visit prettyAndean villages, climb the road onto the highparamó to stay 2 nights at a converted monasterywith a good restaurant. Return to Mérida by scenicback roads and visit a Condor reintroduction station.Overnight in Mérida, and return by air to Port ofSpain. Guided day walks in the Andes can beincluded.

Andes

Angel Falls, the tallest waterfall in the world(twice the height of the Empire State Building),tumbles over the edge of a remote tablemountain in the heart of Venezuela’s GranSabana. There are many such table mountains,or tepuis, in this region; the most famous is MtRoraima, inspiration for Conan Doyles’ LostWorld. The Gran Sabana offers spectacularscenery of impressive table mountains, rollinggrasslands, and a wealth of dazzling waterfalls -some streams even sparkle over beds of semi-precious stone.

Our 8 day/7 night Gran Sabana extension includesreturn flights from Port of Spain to Maturin, 5 daystouring by 4WD vehicle and a trip to Angel Falls.Met by your guide in Maturin you cross the Orinocoto stay at a lodge on Guri Lake, then travel throughthe El Dorado gold rush region and magnificentlowland rainforest before ascending to the GranSabana. Discover this stunning landscape, visitingKavanayén village, Chinak-Merú waterfall, Kamá Falls,Jaspé Falls, and Santa Elena de Uairén. Fly toCanaima, a village by a lagoon fed by 2 waterfallsbacked by table mountains and take a scenic flightpast Angel Falls (weather premitting). Return toPort of Spain via Maturin.

Gran Sabana

Llanos

Los Roques

Orinoco Delta

Our 5 day/4 night LLanos extension includesreturn flights from Port of Spain via Caracas toBarinas where you are met and transferred by road(3hr drive) to Hato El Cedral wildlife conservationranch. Guest rooms have a/c and private bathrooms,and there is a swimming pool and some self-guided birding trails. Stay here 3 nights for morning,afternoon and occasional night safaris with localtrackers, ranging over an extensive area by boat orvehicle according to the season. For the final nightstay at a 3* hotel in Barinas then return by air viaCaracas to Port of Spain.

Our 4 day/3 night Orinoco Delta extension includesreturn flights from Port of Spain to Maturin, a shortdrive from the Delta. Travel by boat (2hrs) to Bocade Tigre jungle lodge for 2 nights. Explore riversand creeks in the flooded forest, passing Warao stiltvillages. Try piranha fishing and paddling a dugout.Wildlife highlights include gatherings of thousandsof parrots, many other birds, cayman lurking in themangroves, and the chance to see freshwaterdolphin. Return to a 3* hotel in Maturin before amorning flight back to Port of Spain. A trip toCanaima with a flight to Angel Falls can be added.

Our 4 day/3 night Los Roques extension includesreturn flights from Port of Spain via Caracas to LosRoques, where you stay at a guest house on themain island of Gran Roque on a full board basis for3 nights. Guests are taken out by catamaran eachday to different parts of the archipelago forsunbathing, swimming and snorkelling. For yourreturn you can choose a morning or afternoonflight from Los Roques to Caracas to connect withyour international flight to Port of Spain. If you havean appropriate diving certificate we can arrangeone or two days of diving at an additional charge.

Playa Medina, Paria peninsula, Venezuela

Río Carrao near Angel Falls, Gran Sabana, Venezuela

Páramos, Andes, Venezuela

Capybara family, Llanos, Venezuela

Los Roques, Venezuela

Orinoco Delta, Venezuela