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How to sell scrap metal, make more money, and not get

ripped off.

SCRAPMETAL

SELLER’SGUIDE

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What Is Scrap Metal? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

How to get the most for you metal, and notget ripped off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Identifying Scrap Metal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Copper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Brass. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Aluminum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

Stainless Steel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Ferrous (Steel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

Contents

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Simply put, “scrap metal” is any metal – or metal object – that is not being used in a productive way.

Aluminum cans, old cars, leftover metal from a construction site, stainless steel kitchen sinks, even worn-out machinery parts are part of everyday scrap metal.

Each day, hundreds of thousands of tons of metal is recycled as scrap, providing important benefits:

• Material is kept out of landfills• Metal mining is reduced• People earn money through scrap collection

This last benefit is the point of this Scrap Metal Seller’s Guide, giving you an inside look at the scrap metal market and an understanding of how to get the most from the recycling centers that purchase scrap

What is Scrap Metal?

Every industry has people and companies that are dishonest, and unfortunately the metal scrap business is no different. There are some people in our business who make their profit by deceiving or cheating scrap sellers. Our goals at Tri-States Iron & Metal Co. are to ensure every customer is treated fairly and honestly, and to help educate scrap sellers on ways they can get the most value for their scrap. There are some “tricks” that are most frequently used, and once you are aware of them, you can avoid getting ripped off. 

Getting The Most For Your Scrap Metal… And Not Get Ripped Off!

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HIDDEN SCALESIf you can’t see your material being weighed, there may be a reason. Make sure you can see the scale and the readout to ensure that you are being given credit for the actual weight of your material.  RIGGED SCALES Prices seem too good to be true? They might just be! Unscrupulous dealers can rig scales to under-report weights, it’s the oldest scam in the scrap business. Scales for trade are required to be certified. Ask to see the certification for the scale, if they can’t provide it there may be a reason. Alternatively, weigh your smaller items on your bathroom scale at home to check that you are being paid for all your material.

MIS-GRADING MATERIALAs you’ll find in this book, there are many different grades of copper, brass, aluminum, and other metals.

The value of Copper No. 1 is much higher than Copper No. 2 – and if you don’t know the difference, you may be getting taken advantage of. Ask questions on how they are grading your material. If you don’t like the answers or they are different than the info in this book BEWARE.

Also watch out for scrap yards that only buy items as a few categories. Don’t let your high value material and low value material be bought together for the lower price.  

Getting The Most For Your Scrap (continued)

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Getting The Most For Your Scrap (continued)

DEDUCTIONS FOR TRASHDon’t take dirty material thinking you’ll get paid for the extra weight. Scrap yards will make deductions for the trash weight, and will always make deductions in their favor to protect themselves. Clean material = zero deductions = all the value for your material. Gross Tons vs. Net Tons vs. CWTKnow how you are being quoted because there can be a big difference in units. Always convert to lbs to get an apples-to-apples comparison.

Gross Tons (GT) = 2240lbs Net Tons (NT) = 2000lbs Hundred Weight (CWT) = 100lbs

Gross Tons vs. Net Tons vs. CWT… continuedFor example, if you are comparing prices and Company A quotes you $105/gt and Company B quotes you $100/nt, Company B is actually paying a higher price per lb.

Company A: $105/2240lbs = $.0469/lb

Company B: $100/2000lbs = $.05/lb

Bringing a calculator with you will help you make the conversions, providing the information to make informed decisions!

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Getting The Most For Your Scrap (continued)

GRADING MATERIAL AFTER UNLOADINGScrap yards know that sellers are more likely to accept the grading once the material has already been unloaded because nobody wants to reload scrap. Have your material graded before unloading so you can easily leave if you disagree.

We want you to have the most positive experience possible, and have made every attempt to create an environment that is safe, honest and trustworthy.

Knowing what to look for, and how to judge a fair deal protects you – and helps improve our industry!

Identifying Scrap Metal

The first – and often most important – step in making sure you are getting fair value for your time and material is properly identifying the types of scrap you have – or will – collect.

Within each metal category, there are different grades or “types,” each of which is worth varying prices.

TOOLS FOR IDENTIFYING METALYour Eyes: Color is one of the quickest and easiest ways to narrow down what type of metal an item could be. Metals can look grey, white, pink, red, or yellow. Also look for corrosion, if you see rust it’s most likely steel.

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Your Hands: Feel the material for weight. Is it light or heavy for its size? Some metals are dense and heavy while others are surprisingly light.

Magnet: A magnet is the easiest way to identify steel. ALL items should be checked with a magnet even if the color looks like another metal. Many steel products are coated to prevent corrosion, making them look like something else.

File: Always uses a file to remove surface coatings so you can see the true metal color. Many metals are coated, which can mask their true color. A file can also help you determine the hardness of a metal.

Tools For Identifying Metal

Common Types of Metal and ValueCopper

Brass

Alumiunum

Lead

Stainless

Ferrous

Mor

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Copper Bare Bright WireBare bright wire is the highest grade of copper. It must be bright and shiny pure copper with no coatings, corrosion, or attachments.

It must be wire that is thicker than 16 gauge (approximately the size of a pencil lead). It must be only wire and cannot contain any sheet, pipe, or other shapes of copper.

Copper No. 1Copper No.1 is clean pipe, tubing, and wire thicker than 16 gauge (approximately the size of a pencil lead). These items can be tarnished but cannot have any solder joints or non-copper attachments. Bright and shiny sheet copper is also Copper No.1.

Check copper items with a magnet to ensure it isn’t copper coated steel. Watch out for paint, no paint can be on Copper No.1.

CopperThe best way to identify copper is by color and hardness. Copper will be pinkish in color, and is somewhat soft/easy to file or bend.

There are nine different categories of copper scrap, each priced according to their value on the secondary market:• Copper Bare Bright Wire• Copper No. 1• Copper No. 2• Copper Unclean• Copper Breakage

Color of Bare Copper Color of Corroded Copper

Examples of Bare Bright Copper

• Copper No. 1 ICW• Copper No. 2 ICW• Copper ICW Low Recovery• Electric Motors

Examples of No.1 Copper

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Copper No. 2

No. 2 Copper is copper pipe, tubing, or sheet that may contain corrosion, solder, paint, or other coatings. It also includes wire less than 16 gauge (approximately the thickness of a pencil lead).

Note that Texas state law requires documentation that material was salvaged from a fire if material has been burned to remove insulation.

Copper Unclean

Copper Unclean are items that do not meet the criteria to be Bare Bright, No.1, or No.2 copper due to minor attachments or excessive coatings. They may only contain up to 10% non-copper attachments, otherwise it is considered as Copper Breakage.

To get the best value from your copper, we advise that you clean the items before bringing them to the scrap recycling center.

Copper BreakageCopper Breakage are items that contain some copper but significant attachments or coatings. They must contain at least 25% copper, otherwise it is a Light Shreddable item (worth less).

To get the best value from your copper, we advise that you clean the items before bringing them to the scrap recycling center.

What is “Breakage”? Breakage is any item containing different types of metal that must be “broken apart” to separate. This additional work lowers the value of the metal. It is always best to try to separate the metals yourself to get the greatest value.

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Low Recovery Insulated Copper Wire must contain minimum of 35% copper content. Low Recovery ICW will primarily be communication, telephone, network cables and wires with thick insulation.

Christmas lights are not part of this category.

Copper No. 1 ICW

No.1 Insulated Copper Wire contains a minimum of 75% copper content and must not have any coatings such as tin (silver) or enamel.

As a general rule, the diameter of the copper should be at least twice as thick as the thickness of the insulation (see diagram below). ICW1 will primarily consist of large electrical cables and thick gauge wire (both stranded and solid).

Copper

Insulated Wire No.2 contains a minimum of 50% copper content and may have any coatings such as tin (silver) or enamel. ICW2 will primarily be general electrical wires such as extension cords, Romex, and other medium to small gauge wire.

This category does NOT include telephone cable, jelly filled wire, thick insulation, computer and network cables and other thin/fine strand wires as these do not have the required minimum 50% copper.

Copper ICW Low Recovery

No.1 Copper Wire should have a copper center at

least twice as thick as the insulation.

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Red Brass is an alloy consisting of copper, tin and zinc. The best way to identify brass is by color and the item made from the metal. Red brass is commonly used to make fittings, castings, values, gears, statues, and other small objects.

Note that Manganese Bronze looks like red brass but is actually a lower value alloy of copper, zinc, and manganese. You can test red brass by dangling a magnet from a string right next to the metal, manganese bronze is slightly magnetic.

The value of an electric motor is in the copper windings inside the housing. Electric motors must contain only copper windings (not aluminum). They cannot have attachments such as brackets, blades, or pulleys.

Note that transformers, stators, or other electronics with some copper as electric motors have little value. The same is true of alternators as most have copper coated aluminum windings.

The best way to identify brass is by color and hardness. Brass will be either reddish in color or yellow in color and is hard/difficult to file.

There are five different categories of brass scrap, each priced according to their value on the secondary market:• Brass Red• Brass Yellow• Brass Radiators• Brass Radiators Unclean• Brass Unclean

The more you know about the types of your scrap, the better you are prepared to get full value for your material.

Electric Motors

Brass

Brass Red

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Yellow Brass is an alloy consisting of copper and zinc. The best way to ID is by color and the use of the metal. Yellow brass is commonly used to make locks, bearings, doorknobs, ammunition casings, plumbing fixtures, faucets, keys, and musical instruments.

Beware of brass coated items that are actually steel. You can test this with a magnet.

A radiator with brass tubes and copper fins were primarily used in older automobiles. They are less commonly used in modern cars. All plastic/steel ends should be removed prior to bringing the material to the scrap yard.

To qualify as a Brass Radiator, it must have copper fins with brass tubes. If any of the ends are steel and/or plastic, the ends should be cut off.

A radiator with brass tubes and copper fins primarily used in older automobiles. They are less commonly used in modern cars. Plastic/steel ends may still be attached.

Beware of different fin/tube materials. All Brass Radiators must have copper fins with brass tubes.

Brass Yellow

Brass Radiators

Brass Radiators Unclean

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Unclean Brass includes any brass item that does not grade out as clean red or yellow brass. It will contain a minimum of 50% brass. Any brass item that does not contain at least 50% brass will be considered as a Light Shreddable.

Beware of brass coated items that are actually steel. You can test this with a magnet.

The best way to identify aluminum is by color and hardness. It will be light greyish white in color and is soft/easy to file.

There are 12 different categories of copper scrap, each priced according to their value on the secondary market:• Aluminum Copper Cooler• Aluminum Copper Cooler with Ends• Aluminum Beverage Cans - Clean & Dry• Aluminum Beverage Cans - Wet & Dirty• Aluminum Extrusion/Clean Wheels• Aluminum Electrical Conductor Wire• Aluminum Wheels Unclean

A cooler consisting of aluminum fins with copper tube primarily found in air conditioning units and other cooling applications. All plastic/steel ends should be removed.

An Aluminum Copper Cooler must have aluminum fins with copper tubes.

Texas state law requires documentation to ensure the material was lawfully acquired. Any reputable scrap yard will be able to provide you the details.

Brass Unclean

Aluminum

Aluminum Copper Cooler

• Aluminum Clean• Aluminum Unclean• Aluminum Breakage• Aluminum Cooler• Aluminum Cooler Unclean• Aluminum ACSR & Neoprene Wire

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This category is coolers consisting of aluminum fins with copper tube, primarily found in air conditioning units and other cooling applications. Plastic/steel ends may still be attached.

Note that you can upgrade your scrap by cutting off the copper ends, which can then be sold as Copper Breakage! Texas state documentation rules apply.

Extrusion is clean aluminum free of any attachments in angle, flat, channel, bar, and other long shapes or wheels from automobiles that have had the valve stems, lugs, and wheel weights removed.

We recommend customers clean their wheels to get maximum value.

Also, make sure they are not steel by using a magnet.

Aluminum Extrusion / Clean Wheels

As the name implies, this is simply used aluminum beverage cans.

Note that scrap yards will check for any liquid still in the cans. One ounce of liquid weighs more than twice the can itself. Aluminum Used Beverage Cans are purchased as either “Dry & Clean” or “Wet or Dirty.” Any moisture or trash will downgrade your cans to the lower value. To get the most money for your metal, make sure cans are dry and clean.

The other thing that will be checked is that no steel cans – such as many soup or vegetable cans – are in the mix.

Aluminum Copper Cooler with Ends

Aluminum Used Beverage Cans

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This category consists of bare aluminum wire with no insulation or steel reinforcing wire.

Aluminum Cable Steel Reinforced wire has a single strand of steel wire woven into the aluminum for added strength. You can check for this using a magnet.

These are wheels from automobiles that have not had the valve stems, lugs, and wheel weights removed. Consider whether it is worth your time to take these extra steps to increase the wheels’ value.

Note that many older cars and spare tires have steel rims. It is recommended that you check for steel with a magnet, including watching out for steel inserts where the lug nuts attach.

Clean aluminum with no attachments, including sheet or cast aluminum. A small number of steel nails/screws are acceptable.

Beware of elements that may lower the value of your material, such as steel attachments. Steel weighs 4 times as much as aluminum.

And watch for steel sleeves in engine cylinders and steel braces on ladders.

Aluminum Electrical Conductor Wire

Aluminum Wheels Unclean

Aluminum Clean

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Aluminum Unclean is material with minimum 75% aluminum content, may include up to 25% non-aluminum attachments. Primarily items with plastic attachments or a very small amount of steel attachments. It may include window and door frames, lawn furniture, items with handles, steel bolts or bushings, etc.

Note that what looks like a small piece of steel can make up a large proportion of the item weight. Also, doors and windows must be free of any glass.

A radiator with brass tubes and copper fins primarily used in older automobiles. They are less commonly used in modern cars. Plastic/steel ends may still be attached.

Beware of different fin/tube materials. All Brass Radiators must have copper fins with brass tubes.

Breakage is material with significant non-aluminum attachments such as steel, plastic, wood, etc. Primarily items with larger steel attachments and components, many with be automotive parts or assemblies.

This may include an aluminum block engine that hasn’t been disassembled, carburetors, water pumps, lawn mower engines, transmissions, boat motors, etc

An Aluminum Cooler consistd of aluminum fins with aluminum tubes including aluminum heating cores, aluminum cooling condensers, and aluminum automotive radiators.

Most new cars have aluminum radiators instead of the older brass/copper radiators.

Note that all plastic or steel ends must be removed.

Aluminum Unclean

Aluminum Breakage

Aluminum Cooler

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An unclean cooler consists of aluminum fins with aluminum tubes including aluminum heating cores, aluminum cooling condensers, and aluminum automotive radiators – and may still have some steel/plastic ends or attachments.

Aluminum Cable Steel Reinforced wire (ACSR) has a single or multiple strands of steel wire woven into the aluminum for added strength. Use a magnet to check all aluminum wire (both insulated and bare) for a steel reinforcing strand.

Neoprene wire is insulated aluminum wire.

These are both lower grade items because the presence of steel and insulation lower the proportion of aluminum.

The best way to identify lead is by its weight and softness. Lead is the most dense of all metals and should feel very heavy. It is also very soft and easy to file.

Lead has three different categories in the metal scrap market:• Lead Clean • Batteries• Lead Unclean

One trick to identifying lead is that it will draw on a piece of paper, similar to a pencil.

Aluminum Cooler Unclean

Aluminum ACSR & Neoprene Wire

Lead

Steel Reinforcement

Cable

Examples of Neoprene Wire

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Lead

Soft and malleable metal that is 1.5 times denser than steel, so it should feel heavy. Clean lead has no other attachments, such as caulking, plastic, or other metals.

It is commonly used in roof flashing, weights, and shielding.

Lead/acid batteries are used in automobiles and other equipment. They will note on the casing it is a Lead (Pb) battery and will be very heavy.

Note that some batteries have a steel casing, which can be checked with a magnet. These will not qualify as lead scrap.

Unclean lead is items with a minimum 75% lead and less than 25% attachments. This includes lead wheel weights, weights with steel attachments, clogged lead pipe, and any melted lead.

Note that aluminum and steel weights often look like lead.

Lead Clean

Batteries

Lead Unclean

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Stainless steel is non-magnetic and will not rust. Clean/Prepared Stainless has no attachments and is less than 48”x48” in size.

This material is commonly used in hardware, kitchen appliances, cookware, sinks, valves, etc.

Be sure and check your material with a magnet to make there is no magnetic steel within any of it.

The best way to identify stainless steel is by its color, hardness and lack of magnetism. Stainless will be a greyish color and lack any signs of corrosion or rust.

It is hard, difficult to file, and a magnet will NOT stick to it.

There are six categories of stainless steel:• Stainless Steel 316 Prepared (marked)• Stainless Steel Prepared• Stainless Steel Unprepared• Stainless Steel Unclean• Catalytic Convertor• Aftermarket Catalytic Convertor

Stainless 316 is non-magnetic and will not rust and has the marking “316.” Stainless 316 can be easily mistaken as other lower value grades of stainless. This material is usually found in pipes and fittings used to transfer chemicals.

Be sure and check your material with a magnet to make sure it’s not “steel.”

Stainless Steel

Stainless Steel 316 Prepared

Stainless Steel Prepared

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Stainless Steel Catalytic Converters are most commonly found on the exhaust system of cars and trucks. The housing of a Catalytic Converter is usually stainless steel but the real value is in the substrate inside which may contain platinum, palladium, or rhodium.

Over time the substrate inside a Catalytic Converter gets used up; if the converter is very light or seems empty, it really has no value. Note that exhaust pipes should be cut off.

Commonly used in commercial kitchens, tanks, countertops, conveyors, pipe, etc., stainless steel is non-magnetic and will not rust.

Clean Unprepared Stainless should have no attachments but may be any size.

Low grade stainless steel is sometimes magnetic, which disqualifies it from this category.

Unclean Stainless may have up to 25% non- stainless attachments and can be any size. It is non-magnetic and will not rust.

This material is commonly found in assemblies that are mostly stainless steel but have plastic, ferrous, or glass attachments.

Be aware of kitchen appliances and items that are stainless steel clad but have steel inner parts or structures.

Stainless Steel Unprepared

Stainless Steel Unclean

Catalytic Convertor

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The best way to identify steel is by its magnetism and the presence of rust. If a magnet sticks to it, or if you see any rust, it is steel.

There are four categories of steel scrap, each priced according to their value on the secondary market:

• Cars• Heavy Steel Prepared• Heavy Steel Unprepared• Light Shreddables• Oversize Steel

Aftermarket Catalytic Converters are built to a lower standard than factory installed Catalytic Converters and have lower value because they contain less substrate inside.

They can be identified by their smaller size, a lack of any flanges, and the sloped ends.

Also, look for brand names such as Flowmaster, MagnaFlow, Walker, or an arrow on the outside or the shielding (this is to show the installer which direction to orient it) any of which are a dead giveaway that it is an Aftermarket Catalytic Converter.

Cars are on average 70-75% steel. Vehicles that are very old, burned, crushed, and/or excessively damaged, and are not in condition to be purchased by Pickers Self - Service Auto Parts can be sold as steel scrap.

NOTE: The seller must have the title to sell a car in Texas. The law does not require the title to be in the seller’s name, but the owner must have signed over the title on the back side. Also, state law requires the battery to be removed to be sold as scrap.

Aftermarket Catalytic Convertor

Ferrous - Steel

Cars

Color of Bare Steel Color of Corroded Steel

Heavy Steel Prepared is thicker than 1/4” (too thick to shred), less than 3’ long in any dimension, and free of significant non-steel attachments. It cannot be cast iron and must be wrought steel.

Heavy Steel Prepared will usually be found in heavy duty parts or large pipe, beams, and other oversize material that has been cut down to size with a torch.

Heavy Steel Prepared

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Oversize steel is any item that is tool big to place in a regular trailer and would require a flatbed to haul. It is lower in value because there are higher transportation costs for these items.

Ask our manager about special pricing if you haul Oversize Steel to our main processing facility in Texarkana, AR.

Heavy Steel Unprepared is items that are longer than 3’, free of significant non-steel attachments, and contain steel thicker than ¼” (too thick to shed).

Note that they must be small enough to fit in a roll-off box.

Ferrous Light Shreddables are steel items less than ¼” thick, and may contain up to 10% non-steel attachments.

Common items include appliances, fencing, sheet metal, pipe, and other light steel. There are a number of restrictions on material that is acceptable, so often the best suggestion is to call the scrap yard with any questions.

Heavy Steel Unprepared

Light Shreddables

Oversize Steel

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