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TURF

Bill TaylorWeston County Extension

University of Wyoming

The University of Wyoming, United States Department of Agriculture, and Weston County Extension Office cooperate

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Selecting the Right Grass

“The grass you sow will be the lawn you mow.”

The most vital step to final lawn results.

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Turfgrass Terminology Vegetative parts

of plant – useful in indentification Leaf blade Leaf sheath Vernation Collar Ligule Auricles Growth habit

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Leaf Blade

Upper flattened portion of leaf Texture fine, medium, coarse? Veins prominent? Shade of green? Smooth (glabrous) or hairy

(pubescent)? Tip pointed, boat-shaped, blunt,

round?

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Leaf Blade (cont.)

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Leaf Sheath Lower portion of the leaf – part

that encircles stem Cylindrical? Compressed? Closed? Open? Margins overlapping?

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Leaf Sheath (cont.)

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Vernation Arrangement of new leaves with

older leaf sheath Folded or rolled when it emerges?

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Vernation (cont.)

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Collar Band at junction of leaf blade and

leaf sheath Divided, broad, narrow?

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Collar (cont.)

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Ligule Appendage on inner side of grass

leaf at junction of blade and sheath Absent, membranous, hairy? If present, size and shape? Upper edge smooth, notched, hairy

(ciliate)?

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Ligule (cont.)

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Auricles Appendages occurring in pairs at

base of blade Present or absent? If present, small (rudimentary) or

prominent (clawlike)?

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Auricles (cont.)

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Growth Habit Plant erect or lying down

(decumbent)? Lateral shoots such as rhizomes

(underground stems), stolons (aboveground stems), or tillers (shoots that arise from crown)?

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Growth Habit (cont.)

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Variety Considerations Aesthetic purposes or play?

Heavy traffic – cultivar tolerating lots of use.

Plenty or minimum maintenance? Minimal amounts of water, fertilizer,

pest and weed management? Variety which will survive with little care

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Variety Considerations (cont.) Irrigation available?

Use bluegrasses & fine fescues where irrigation is available

Drought-resistant species where no irrigation is available

Good quality water? If high in salts a salt tolerant species

is needed

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Variety Considerations (cont.) Soil sandy or clay?

Clay – drains poorly, may hold too much water for some types

Shade or sun? Most will not tolerate heavy shade

Elevation? Higher elevations more difficult for

turf grass

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Variety Considerations (cont.) Temperature and climate?

Warm season vs cool season types Only two warm season varieties for

Wyoming – Buffalo grass, Blue grama NOT Zoysia, Bermuda, St. Augustine Will not green up until mid or late June Will go dormant when short of moisture

All others are cool season

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Grass Varieties Four types

Sod forming vs. bunch grasses Warm season vs. cool season

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Kentucky bluegrass & red fescues spread by underground stems (rhizomes) and side

branches (tillers) from the crown.

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Bentgrasses and buffalograss spread by creeping stems (stolons) on the soil surface.

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Bunchgrasses like crested wheatgrass, ryegrass and tall fescues spread by side

branches at the crown.

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Grass Varieties (cont.) Kentucky Bluegrass

Sod former Cool season Soft, pretty Many cultivars

Some require high maintenance, some low

Seed @ 3-5 lb./1000 sq. ft.

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Grass Varieties (cont.) Kentucky Bluegrass (cont.)

Advantages Readily available Cheap Soft and green

Disadvantages High water requirements

2” every 7-10 days (~5000-6000 gal/wk for 5000 sq. ft. lawn)

Numerous diseases Die-back with adverse conditions

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GRASS VARIETIES (cont.) Perennial ryegrass

Bunch grass Cool season Mixed w/ bluegrass – attractive

Pretty blue sheen Germinates rapidly – short life span Uses water like bluegrass Crowded out eventually by bluegrass Seed @ 6-8 lb./1000 sq. ft.

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Grass Varieties (cont.) Turf-Type Tall Fescue

Coarse-bladed, cool season Bunch grass Drought resistant

Will regreen after drying out Will survive @ 50%-70% of bluegrass

water Seed @ 6-8 lb./1000 sq. ft.

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Grass Varieties (cont.) Fine fescue

Sod former Cool season Very fine & delicate looking Rugged tolerance Disadvantages

Lodges before cutting Can sunburn

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Grass Varieties (cont.) Fine Fescue (cont.)

Stays green long Drought resistant

Will survive @ 50% of bluegrass water Forms thatch quickly Good in shade Seed @ 5 lb./1000 sq. ft.

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Grass Varieties (cont.) Crested wheatgrass

Bunch grass Cool season Uses 50% of bluegrass water Sensitive to traffic No disease or insect problems Seed @ 5 lb./1000 sq. ft.

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Grass Varieties (cont.) Smooth bromegrass

One recommended cultivar – Lincoln Seed @ 10-12 lb./1000 sq. ft.

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Grass Varieties (cont.) Buffalograss

Slow, dense sod former Warm season

Greens up in late June, browns out at first frost

No watering required after established Must water first 2 years Can water to keep green

Seed @ 2-3 lb./1000 sq. ft.

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Grass Varieties (cont.) Blue grama

Bunch grass, but will eventually sod Warm season

Greens up in late June, browns out at first frost No watering required after established

Must water first 2 years Can water to keep green

More tolerant to salty soil than buffalograss Finer, more attractive than buffalograss Seed @ 1-3 lb./1000 sq. ft.

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Grass Varieties (cont.) Recommended mixture of warm

season grass 50/50 buffalograss and blue grama

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Planting Grass Cool seasons

Fall if irrigation water is unlimited August 15th to September 15th

Early spring if water is limited Late June to mid-August above 6500’

Warm seasons May 10th to June 15th

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Planting Grass (cont.)

1. Soil test2. Water test3. Compatibility determination of #1

& #24. Availability of water5. What do you want?

1. Kids, retirement

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Planting Grass (cont.)6. Make a plan – very important

1. Play, high use areas2. Trees, shrubs – grass & trees don’t mix,

mulch trees3. Vegetable and flower gardens4. Traffic areas, utility, low exposure areas5. Get the right plant in the right place6. Use graph paper and sketch it all out7. MAKE YOUR DECISIONS NOW

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Planting Grass (cont.)7. Choose the grass type and variety

1. Use only adapted, recommended varieties with certified seed.

8. Grading plan1. Be sure water stays on your property2. Keep water from basement, garage,

etc.

9. Do rough grade1. Check the water flow

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Planting Grass (cont.)10. Start loosening soil

1. Plow deep (don’t turn up sub-soil), leave bare-faced over winter

2. Till in spring – avoid over tilling1. Kill weed crop2. May need additional Roundup treatments to get

ahead of weeds

11. Add amendments1. If organic matter is less than 5% (most

are) add 3-5 cu. yd. compost/1000 sq. ft. (1” cover)

2. Till in to 4”-8” depth*

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Planting Grass (cont.)12. Drag and firm soil at final grade

1. This is your last chance – be sure water drains where you want it

13. Add good starter fertilizer1. Up to 1#/1000 ft2 of N w/ sulfur and

iron

14. Pre-water

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Planting Grass (cont.)

15. Determine planting method1. Seed

1. Cheapest2. Highest chance of failure

1. May cost as much as hydroseeding when done

3. Wet soil – seed must have contact with damp soil

4. Seed two directions

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Planting Grass (cont.)

16. Hydroseeding1. Can be custom blended2. Ask about seed mixes, mulch used,

fertilizers, care given

17. Sodding1. Rewater lightly2. Obtain from as close as possible

1. Must be laid as soon after cut as possible

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Planting Grass (cont.)

17. Sodding (cont.)3. Stagger seams, be sure they are

tight4. Run strips longest direction5. Roll down to eliminate air pockets6. Water behind yourself

18. Plugs, strips

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Planting Grass (cont.)

17. Plan again – last chance1. Don’t grass any mounds2. Use ground paint and mark lot

18. Seed, sod, or plug1. Seed two directions2. If broadcast, lightly rake or drag3. Mulch with straw, netting, matting –

especially if on a slope

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Planting Grass (cont.)

18. Watering1. By feel – soil feels like wrung out

sponge2. Lightly, frequently – don’t let it dry

out3. Reduce frequency, increase duration

as roots increase

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Planting Grass (cont.)

19. Mow at 45 days1. Cut to 2-2½”2. Mainly to mow off weeds

20. At 3-4 mowings can use chemical herbicide if needed

1. Use at ¾ rate

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Turf Maintenance Early Spring (even if

frozen) Rake up leaves & dead

grass and compost Can power rake – hastens

greenup, lets ground warm up earlier, removes dead material

Overseed thin & bare spots

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Turf Maintenance (cont.) Early Spring (cont.)

Mow to ½”-¾”, bag and remove Do not remove more than 1/3 blade length

Water thoroughly, can use surfactant Plug aerate

Up to triple the soil microbial action Plugs 2½”-3” deep A plug every 3-5 in2

Go over twice

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Turf Maintenance (cont.) Early Spring (cont.)

Fertilize with 21-7-7 @ 1½-2¼ #N/1000 ft2 into the aeration plugs

Use slow release Or use screened compost or well rotted manure

Mow every 5-7 days if you leave the clippings 7-10 days if clippings removed

Weed control Hand weeding Herbicide application

Pre- or post-emergent for annual weeds if needed Spot control for perennial weeds, i.e. dandelion, thistle

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Turf Maintenance (cont.) Early Summer

Fertilize with 1½ #N/1000 ft2

Slow release Slowly let grass get taller w/ each mowing

until 3”-3½” (Keep that mower sharp!) Keeps crowns shaded Depth of roots directly related to top height

Problem areas begin to show High heat areas – most damage at 2:00 p.m.

Spraying w/ hose reduces temperature

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Turf Maintenance (cont.) Early Summer (cont.)

Water early – daylight to 10:00 a.m. Water deep and seldom

6”-12” deep once every 7-10 days Use test hole to determine time required

Rewater just before water stress sets in (about 50% of water used)

Signs of water stress Bluish color Foot prints slow to rebound

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Turf Maintenance (cont.) Early Summer (cont.)

Water deep and seldom (cont.) Frequent, shallow watering

Shallow, weak root system Requires more water Creates thatch

Impervious layer of fine roots below grass crown and above soil – like layer of felt

Dries out quickly

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Turf Maintenance (cont.) Mid Summer (~August 1)

Increase water if hot and dry – back off as soon as cools off

Maintain lawn length at 2½”-3” Remember not to remove more than 1/3 blade

length in any mowing Check for sod webworm larvae and adults Summer dormancy

Topdress w/ compost in heat of summer – water-in well

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Turf Maintenance (cont.) Fall

Continue deep watering Perennial broadleaf weed control Overseed & repair of damaged areas

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Turf Maintenance (cont.) Late Fall

Start cutting shorter with each mowing End up at ¾” by snow Helps prevent snow mold

Aerate Fertilize

Top dress w/ screened compost or rotted manure (or)

Fertilizer Slow release if early Quick release if real late Winterizer fertilizers w/ extra P or K not warranted –

N is still nutrient needed

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Turf Maintenance (cont.) Late Fall (cont.)

Water deeply as needed

Rake leaves Prevent matting

and grass suffocation

May return some to lawn by using mulching mower

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Turf Maintenance (cont.) Winter

Water slightly whenever bare and temperature is 45°F or above

Do mower maintenance Drought conditions

Apply 1-2 lb. N/1000 sq. ft. after top growth is dormant – available for next spring greenup.

Refrain from fertilization rest of year if water is limited.

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Fertilizer Calculations Note the three numbers on the front of

the bag – i.e. 25-5-5, 10-10-10 Always N, P, K percentages in that order

Note % of N – this is the vital nutrient to balance for

Divide pounds of N needed per 1000 sq. ft. by percent N. = amount of fertilizer per 1000 sq. ft.

Multiply by the number of 1000’s of sq. footage to find total amount to purchase.

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Fertilizer Calculations (cont.) Your lawn measures 100’ x 500’. Your fertilizer recommendation says

you should apply 1.5 lb. N per 1000 sq. ft.

You find 15-5-5 at the store @ $10.50 per 20 lb. bag.

What will it cost to fertilize your lawn?

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Fertilizer Calculations (cont.) Lawn area = 100’ X 500’ =

5000 sq. ft. or 5 thousands. 1.5 lb N needed ÷ .15 (15%) =

10 lb fertilizer needed for every 1000 sq. ft. 10 lb x 5 thousands =

50 lb fertilizer to buy 50 lb ÷ 20 lb/bag =

2.5 bags 3 bags x $10.50 =

$31.50

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Controlling Pests Good surface & subsurface drainage

when establishing new turf Grow locally adapted, disease-

resistant varieties Buy only top-quality certified sod,

sprigs, plugs, seed from reputable dealer

Fertilize according to recommendations

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Controlling Pests (cont.) Mow frequently at recommended

height with sharp mower, removing no more than 1/3 of blade.

Water properly Increase light penetration and air

movement by pruning or removing dense trees, shrubs, hedges

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Controlling Pests (cont.) Core aerate thatched and

compacted areas Follow recommended weed and

insect control programs.

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