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    . XXVI.

    TO THE LADY ——.

     Adrianople, April  1. O. S. 1717.

    [26.1] I am now got into a new world, where every thing I see appears to me a change of scene;

    and I write to your ladyship with some content of mind, hoping, at least, that you will find the

    charms of novelty in my letters, and no longer reproach me, that I tell you nothing extraordinary.

    I won't troule you with a relation of our tedious !ourney; ut must not omit what I saw

    remar"ale at Sophia, one of the most eautiful towns in the #ur"ish empire, and famous for its

    hot aths, that are resorted to oth for diversion and health. I stopped here one day, on purpose to

    see them; and, designing to go incognito, I hired a #ur"ish coach. #hese voitures are not at all

    li"e ours, ut much more convenient for the country, the heat eing so great, that glasses would

     e very troulesome. #hey are made a good deal in the manner of the $utch stage%coaches,

    having wooden lattices painted and gilded; the inside eing also painted with as"ets and

    nosegays of flowers, intermixed commonly with little poetical mottos. #hey are covered all over

    with scarlet cloth, lined with sil", and very often richly emroidered and fringed. #his covering

    entirely hides the persons in them, ut may e thrown ac" at pleasure, and thus permits the

    ladies to peep through the lattices. #hey hold four people very conveniently, seated on cushions,

     ut not raised.

    [26.2] In one of these covered waggons, I went to the agnio aout ten o'cloc". It was already full

    of women. It is uilt of stone, in the shape of a dome, with no windows ut in the roof, which

    gives light enough. #here were five of these domes !oined together, the outmost eing less than

    the rest, and serving only as a hall, where the portress stood at the door. &adies of uality

    generally give this woman a crown or ten shillings; and I did not forget that ceremony. #he next

    room is a very large one paved with marle, and all round it are two raised sofas of marle, one

    aove another. #here were four fountains of cold water in this room, falling first into marle

     asons, and then running on the floor in little channels made for that purpose, which carried the

    streams into the next room, something less than this, with the same sort of marle sofas, ut so

    hot with steams of sulphur proceeding from the aths !oining to it, 'twas impossile to stay there

    with one's cloaths on. #he two other domes were the hot aths, one of which had coc"s of cold

    water turning into it, to temper it to what degree of warmth the athers pleased to have.

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    [26.3] I was in my travelling hait, which is a riding dress, and certainly appeared very

    extraordinary to them. (et there was not one of them that shewed the least surprise or impertinent

    curiosity, ut received me with all the oliging civility possile. I "now no )uropean court,

    where the ladies would have ehaved themselves in so polite a manner to such a stranger. I

     elieve, upon the whole, there were two hundred women, and yet none of those disdainful

    smiles, and satirical whispers, that never fail in our assemlies, when any ody appears that is

    not dressed exactly in the fashion. #hey repeated over and over to me; *+)&&), -)  +)&&),*

    which is nothing ut, Charming, very Charming . // #he first sofas were covered with

    cushions and rich carpets, on which sat the ladies; and on the second, their slaves ehind them,

     ut without any distinction of ran" y their dress, all eing in the state of nature, that is, in plain

    )nglish, star" na"ed, without any eauty or defect concealed. (et there was not the least wanton

    smile or immodest gesture amongst them. #hey wal"ed and moved with the same ma!estic grace,

    which 0ilton descries our general mother with. #here were many amongst them, as exactly proportioned as ever any goddess was drawn y the pencil of a uido or #itian, / and most of

    their s"ins shiningly white, only adorned y their eautiful hair divided into many tresses,

    hanging on their shoulders, raided either with pearl or rion, perfectly representing the figures

    of the races.

    [26.4] I was here convinced of the truth of a reflection I have often made, That if it were the

     fashion to go naked, the face would be hardly observed . I perceived, that the ladies of the most

    delicate s"ins and finest shapes had the greatest share of my admiration, though their faces were

    sometimes less eautiful than those of their companions. #o tell you the truth, I had wic"edness

    enough, to wish secretly, that 0r ervais could have een there invisile. I fancy it would have

    very much improved his art, to see so many fine women na"ed, in different postures, some in

    conversation, some wor"ing, others drin"ing coffee or sheret, and many negligently lying on

    their cushions, while their slaves 2generally pretty girls of seventeen or eighteen3 were employed

    in raiding their hair in several pretty fancies. In short, 'tis the women's coffee%house, where all

    the news of the town is told, scandal invented, 4c. // #hey generally ta"e this diversion once

    a%wee", and stay there at least four or five hours, without getting cold y immediate coming out

    of the hot ath into the cold room, which was very surprising to me. #he lady, that seemed the

    most considerale among them, entreated me to sit y her, and would fain have undressed me for 

    the ath. I excused myself with some difficulty. #hey eing however all so earnest in persuading

    me, I was at last forced to open my shirt, and shew them my stays; which satisfied them very

    well; for, I saw, they elieved I was loc"ed up in that machine, and that it was not in my own

     power to open it, which contrivance they attriuted to my husand, // I was charmed with

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    their civility and eauty, and should have een very glad to pass more time with them; ut 0r 5

     // resolving to pursue his !ourney next morning early, I was in haste to see the ruins of

    6ustinian's church, which did not afford me so agreeale a prospect as I had left, eing little more

    than a heap Of stones.

    [26.5] dieu, madam, I am sure I have now entertained you with an account of such a sight as you

    never saw in your life, and what no oo" of travels could inform you of, as 'tis no less than death

    for a man to e found in one of these places.