.75 Trumpet VineKnowledge for the Community from Loudoun County Master Gardeners

Fall 2009Volume V, Issue 4 www.loudouncountymastergardeners.org

LOUDOUN COUNTY MASTER GARDENER MONTHLY MEETINGS

FREE AND OPEN TO THE PUBLICUNLESS NOTED, MEETINGS ARE HELD AT THE VIRGINIA TECH EXTENSION OFFICE, 30B CATOCTIN CIRCLE SE, LEESBURG,

AT 7PM

October 1 - Remarkable Trees of Virginia, Dr. Jeff Kirwin, the author of "Remarkable Trees of Virginia" and a Professor in VT's College of Natural Resources. Jeff brings a strong academic background to his forestry passion and spends much of his time working with children throughout the state's 4-H program.

November 5, Orchids and Things: Questions from the Crowd, Alex Personius, a renaissance guy and award-winning orchid grower with a has broad and deep expertise in horticulture. Alex is currently the manager of the new Meadows Farms in Charles Town.  He encourages attendees to bring any plants, pictures, and questions they have to the meeting, whether orchid-related or not.  So, come prepared to learn AND interact!

November 20 - Applications Due for the 2010 Master Gardener Class (Interested? See article in this publication)

Save the Date: First Annual Master Gardener Symposium: March 20 - 21, 2010

Tree Stewards Inventory Ash Trees

In June twelve Loudoun County Master Gardeners participated in 30 hours of advanced training at Virginia Tech to become Tree Stewards. The mission of Tree Stewards is to establish a sustainable program based on community needs that builds public awareness of the importance of trees and provides education in proper tree selection and care.

The first project of the Loudoun County Tree Stewards is to assist the Leesburg Town Tree Commission assess the potential impact of the Emerald Ash Borer (pictured) on the trees of Leesburg. The Emerald Ash Borer, an invasive beetle from Asia, attacks and kills ash trees. The Emerald Ash borer is known to be in the area.  Efforts are now focused on tracking its spread and understanding the ultimate impact of the loss of most of the ash trees.  Individual trees can be treated, but the treatment is expensive and must be applied every year to be effective.  Currently the Town has no plans to treat individual trees on public property. 

The Tree Stewards will be surveying neighborhoods within the Town to observe and tally the ash trees that are visible from public streets. The tally will provide the Tree Commission with an estimate of the number of ash trees within the town and help it assess the impact of the potential loss of these trees.

The Tree Commission has set a goal of 40% tree canopy cover in 20 years for the town of Leesburg.  The most recent evaluation of tree canopy put the current coverage at 27%.  With the spread of the Emerald Ash Borer there is the possibility that most of the ash trees within the town could be lost.  By inventorying these trees, the Tree Commission can estimate their contribution to the tree canopy cover and therefore the potential loss in canopy and begin to plan to compensate for that loss.

The project was kicked off on August 6 and will likely be complete by early fall 2009, prior to the leaves falling.

For more information on the Emerald Ash Borer in our area, please see http://loudouncountymastergardeners.org/Alert%20pictures/EAB%20Factsheet.pdf

So You Want to be a Master GardenerLoudoun County Master Gardeners are gearing up for the Class of 2010! Do you like learning something new? Helping people? Passing along information? Working in a Demonstration Garden with fellow gardeners, learning as you go? If the answer is YES to any of these questions, please read on as registration deadline for the next class is November 20th.

The Master Gardener training program trains Volunteers to assist the Urban Horticulturalist in providing service and educational programs to Loudoun homeowners. Persons interested in joining the Loudoun County Master Gardener (LCMG) program do not have to be experienced gardeners. The one characteristic all Master Gardener Volunteers (MGVs) have in common is a desire to give back to or contribute to their community. To join the program, you must complete and return an application form with the fee to the Extension Office (form can be found on-line at http://www.loudouncountymastergardeners.org/becomeanmg.htm).

Training space limits the number of students accepted to 30. Applicants are personally interviewed by current MGVs and Extension personnel before being accepted into the training program – this helps us all make sure that the program requirements are understood before a commitment is made. If it is determined that there is a conflict, fee is returned.

Your commitment begins with classroom training. Training runs from February 2nd through April 29th. Classes meet every Tuesday and Thursday mornings, from 9 - noon, in the Extension Office in Leesburg. It is expected that trainees attend each and every class. The classes follow the Loudoun County School calendar, so breaks are scheduled accordingly.

Classes are taught by industry professionals, Loudoun County’s Urban Horticulturalist, and qualified Master Gardeners. There are over 25 classes and labs scheduled for the 2010 class.

The material covered ranges from Soils, Botany, Turf, Fruiting plants, Pruning, Landscape Design, and Vegetable Gardening. If this sounds overwhelming, it’s not. The instructors are clear, the material is wonderful, and even if you are lacking a true green thumb, this is a place to learn some real basics about our land and use of it. Many current MGVs have taken the classes to help themselves become educated, and then use that education to share with the public. Training is where you will meet so many great friends as well!

Now that the classroom section of the commitment has been addressed, what about the rest?

We have a 75 hour internship requirement! Wow--75 hours sounds like a lot but the hours are broken up into three areas of our mission. Twenty five hours are required as service on the “Help Desk” and at plant clinics, where you would be paired with tenured MGVs. So don’t worry, you won’t be dispensing advice without a touchstone. Twenty five hours are required working in our Demonstration Garden at Ida Lee Park. If you are not physically capable of doing gardening chores, there is always documentation required. Lastly, 25 hours of “Other” services – such as working the booth at the Leesburg Flower and Garden Show and other such events, or perhaps helping write articles for this publication!

At the end of the year, with all hours satisfied, Interns are certified as a Virginia Cooperative Extension Master Gardener Volunteer. After this first year, to maintain status as an MGV, you must complete 25 hours of volunteer work and 8 hours of continuing education (an easy requirement just by attending the monthly Association Meetings!)

So, are you ready for the call of the Garden? Master Gardener Linda Furr

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Ask the Hardscaper

Q: I have drainage issues around my house. What are French Drains and can I install them myself? Drainage problems around your house can be caused by a variety of factors. The foremost is poor grading in your landscape and near your house’s foundation. The foundation grade should slope away from your house and grading in your landscape should allow for water to exit. If your house has elevation or grade problems near the foundation it is best to fix those by correcting the grade if possible. If not, professional installation is recommended for encompassing foundation drains. Clogged, damaged, or improperly hung gutters are also a common problem, concentrating roof run-off near the foundation of your house. Proper maintenance of gutters is recommended before dealing with downspouts. However, downspouts emptying near your foundation are also a cause for concern. If you want to divert your downspouts into French Drains or drain a wet area of your landscape it is usually a manageable task for a DIY project- but does require some hard physical labor.

French Drains are a simply constructed drain system that utilizes an underground channel and/or drain tile (pipes) to convey water away from foundations or other wet spots where standing water or saturated ground can cause damage. Gutter downspouts are frequently connected to these drains. These drains can be designed to dissipate water within their own channel; empty into a larger underground catchment, drain field, dry well, or back onto the surface at a lower elevation (in this case, it would be preferable to have the drains empty into a rain garden, dry creek, or a catchment pond). A basic French Drain can be constructed using rigid PVC perforated pipe attached to your gutter’s downspout or to a catch basin in your yard with a drainage grate on top. Black corrugated flexible pipe is not recommended as it can collapse and cannot be cleaned with a drain snake if it becomes clogged

• Dig a trench large enough for the pipe (4” pipe is standard) and washed gravel, 8” to 12” deep and wide is usually a sufficient size for the channel. Make sure to slope the channel down from the entrance all the way to the exit (a slope of 1’:100’ is sufficient): a carpenter’s level or a line level can be used for this.

• Line the channel with permeable landscape fabric, fill in an inch or so of washed gravel, lay the drain pipe, backfill with the gravel until several inches of gravel cover the pipe and then wrap the ends of the landscape fabric over the top of the gravel and then backfill with a couple of inches of sand, topsoil, and then seed or sod to ground level.

Remember, before digging call miss utility (811 or 1-800-552-7001) to check for underground lines and you may need to call a private service to mark the lines running from your house (to sheds, lights, pools, etc.) as miss utility only marks the lines running from the utility lines to your house. Also, check your local zoning laws or with your HOA before beginning a project like this.

Master Gardener Seth Walton

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Completed French Drain

Saving SeedsThere is something primordial about saving seeds from your garden to use next year. It invokes thoughts of the first tribes who gave up the nomadic life to begin farming, or the pioneers, crossing the country in covered wagons, carrying the seeds that they will use to sustain their families in the new land. Even when they were hungry, those few bean seeds didn’t go into the pot, because they represented new life. Harvesting and storing the seeds of that beautiful hollyhock or that most delicious of tomatoes isn’t quite as dramatic, but still is a way to carry forward the heritage of seeds of bygone days.

Why would you want to go through the bother of saving seeds from your garden? First, it is a way to maintain the gene pool of plants that did exceptionally well in your environment. Second, it is easy and is a free source of next year’s bounty. Most important, it will amaze your friends when you give them gifts of nature’s best to plant in their gardens.

The first step in getting started is to select the plants in your garden whose seeds you would like to save. You will want to select the best, most robust and disease-free plants and mark them with a twist tie or a ribbon so you will be able to find them after they have faded. Then you just have to wait for the seeds to ripen on the plant. In general, seeds are ready to harvest when they have turned all dry and brown. This is an indication that they have stored up enough food to nurture the emerging plant in the spring. The exception is plants that have very fleshy fruit, like pumpkins or tomatoes. For these fruit, the seeds are ready to harvest when the fruit is just past ready to eat.

Hybrid plants are plants that are produced by crossing two parent plants to produce a new offspring with characteristics of the two parents. Though these are wonderful plants, often the seeds of hybrids, sometimes marked “F1”, are sterile. So avoid trying to save seeds of hybrid plants.

Next, you have to prepare the seeds for storage. The key element in successfully storing seeds is the moisture content of the seeds. If they are put away with too much moisture still in them, they can rot or mildew, so you need to ensure that they are good and dry. Using beans as an example, once your beans have dried on the plant, pick the pods and drop them into a paper bag. They can continue to dry in the bag or you can spread them out on a screen or cookie sheet in a cool, shaded, airy spot. When they are totally dry you can separate the seed from the pod. The pod is an example of “chaff” which must be removed before storage. For small seed, you can remove the chaff by lightly blowing on the seed, by pouring the seed slowly from one container to another with a light wind or fan blowing, or by passing the seed over a screen. This will also remove any light seeds that are not viable, leaving only the best.

Store the seeds in an air-tight container, like a canning jar or a plastic storage container. To further ensure that there is not too much moisture, you might add some anti-desiccant, like

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the silica gel found at craft stores. Label the container carefully and store in a cool, dry, dark place. The refrigerator is perfect, but the freezer is unnecessary.

Seeds of fleshy plants like tomatoes and cucumbers are something of a special case. It is acceptable to just squoosh the seeds out of the tomato and dry them. But a preferred method is to scoop the seeds, still in their tomato jelly, into a labeled cup and add water. Leave this at room temperature, stirring twice a day, for about 3 days, until it ferments. The viable seeds will sink to the bottom while the bad seeds will float up with the foam. Remove the foam, rinse and dry the good seeds on a screen. The fermentation process will kill off many diseases that may have hitched a ride on your seeds.

A word about cross-pollination. Many plants have both male and female flower parts on the same plant and therefore are able to pollinate themselves. Seed from this type plant will usually produce plants that are identical to the parent. Some plants, like squash, depend upon insects or the wind to pollinate them. Seeds from these plants may or may not breed true. A squash won’t be pollinated by a cucumber, but your zucchini may cross with your acorn squash and next year’s plant could be an unrecognizable, though probably edible, cross between the two. Likewise, flower seeds may cross-pollinate and your purple coneflower may cross with your white coneflower to produce seed for a pink variety. It is fun to experiment with crossing varieties, but probably not wise to stake your entire garden on saved seeds of cross-pollinators. Plants that tend to cross-pollinate include cucumbers, melons, peppers, eggplants, parsley, and basil. Tomatoes will cross-pollinate only about 5% of the time.

The following is a table which contains a very brief list of many flowering plants you will see as you walk your neighborhood, and from which you may harvest seeds. Just think, you could have a garden full of color for only the money it takes to store a few seeds!

To get started, you may want to try saving seeds from plants that are vigorous self-seeders,

like cleome (spider plant) or rudbeckia (black-eyed Susan). These have seeds that you can basically just pick off the plant. To share with your friends, there are many printable seed envelopes that you can find online (one example: http://www.gardensandcrafts.com/seedpackets.html), or just use an old seed packet as a pattern and make your own envelope. Note the plant, its characteristics, its cultural requirements, and the date. A personal gift that shares your most prized plants is always welcome. And you can think of yourself as a pioneer, carrying on the traditions of the past.

For further information, please see these publications from Virginia Tech:

http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-316/426-316.html,

http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-001/426-001.html

Master Gardener Barbara Arnold

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Help Desk: 703/771-5150 - 5 - email: ex107mg@vt.edu

Cleome (sow seeds in fall) Daisys Verbena Joe Pye Weed

Black Eyed Susan Marigold Nasturtiums Cosmos

Purple Coneflower Begonia Hollyhocks Moneyvine

Impatiens (tiny seeds) Zinnia Ornamental peppers Globe Thistle

Rain Barrels

Collecting rain water in barrels for later use is an ancient practice dating back 2000 years. There are several practical reasons to collect rain water in the twenty-first century. A rain barrel collects and stores rainwater from rooftops for use later in watering the lawn and garden. This water would normally pour off roofs via downspouts, cross driveways, parking lots and streets and become part of the storm water runoff that erodes and pollutes streams. Diverting rain water from storm drain systems can reduce the velocity of water entering local streams and rivers and reduce pollutants. The collected rainwater can be a real plus for the home owner and gardener. Water savings from using stored rainwater can be substantial over a period of time, reducing water and sewer bills. And, a plus for the garden, rain is a naturally soft water, devoid of minerals, chlorine, fluoride and other chemicals. Plants respond very well to water from a rain barrel just as they do to rain.

How much water can you collect?

For every one inch of rain on a catchment area of 1,000 sq. ft., you can expect to collect approximately 600 gallons of rainwater! Your roof’s catchment area is equal to the square feet of your house plus the extension of your eaves. You can expect to lose 10-30% to evaporation, leaks, spills and the wind. Obviously runoff from a heavy storm or prolonged rain can quickly fill the average 55 gallon barrel. What to do when the barrel fills up is just one of several considerations that make the use of rain barrels more complicated than the simple barrel at the bottom of the downspout.

Setup (see diagram) Raised base. The rain barrel should be sufficiently raised so that a hose can be attached and gravity will feed water to the garden. Regardless of its elevation, a rain barrel needs a sturdy, level base. A typical barrel will weigh over 500 pounds when full. Placing a barrel on a sloping or uneven surface can be dangerous.

Top cover and screen. The barrel should have a cover to keep animals and children from falling in and drowning. A screen is necessary to keep mosquitoes out.

Overflow. Overflow pipes handle excess water. The overflow in this diagram is too small. It has to be much larger in diameter to handle excess water in a storm. The overflow can lead to another rain barrel, back into the storm water system or into a rain garden. Ensure that the overflow does not empty near the foundation of the house. Daisy chaining rain barrels with the overflow connection allows you to increase water capacity with several standard-sized barrels. You can attach a 2” or larger PVC pipe to your overflow and divert the water to a French Drain. (See “Ask the Hardscaper” in this edition.)

(Continued Next Page)

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Uses for collected rain water include:

• Watering with a soaker hose• Filling watering cans• Rinsing off gardening tools• Keeping the compost bin

moist

The barrel. The average rain barrel is 50-55 gallons in capacity. However water cisterns and tanks can be purchased that hold up to 1,000 gallons. Some barrels have a flat back, some are rectangular, some purely functional and others very decorative. You can make a barrel

from any plastic, food-grade container or recycled oak whiskey barrel. Barrels can be painted to blend with the landscape or express personal taste. With plastic barrels, use paints specially formulated to bond well on plastic surfaces.

Diverters. There are a number of different diverter systems that attach to your downspout and will direct the rain water into your rain barrel. After the rain barrel is full, the diverter will automatically re-direct the rain water back into the downspout.

Winterizing. Disconnect downspouts prior to the first hard freeze. Return the downspouts to their original configuration or ensure that runoff is diverted away from the foundations. Drain the rain barrel and turn it upside down to prevent freezing and cracking. Store hoses and screens. This is a good time to wash out the barrel.

Maintenance. Rain barrels are relatively trouble free. Periodically check hoses and attachments. Check lids, screens and hardware. Remove any debris that may have collected on the cover or screen.

Are you allowed to have rain barrels in your neighborhood?

Communities are beginning to recognize the benefits of rain barrels. Many HOAs allow rain barrels as long as they are sufficiently camoflagued and are not oversized. Check your covenants and lobby your HOA if rain barrels are not currently allowed.

Where can you find more information?

There are many websites with detailed information on rain barrels whether you are making one from scratch, purchasing one and looking for the many options, looking to purchase hardware and accessories or researching the various installation configurations.

The Loudoun Soil and Water Conservation District holds several rain barrel workshops each year with the next scheduled on September 21st at Heritage Farm. Check out their web site for information: http://www.loudounsoilandwater.com/

Rain barrels contribute toward improving the environment while allowing you to exercise your creativity and imagination.

Master Gardener Carol Ivory

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Help Desk: 703/771-5150 - 7 - email: ex107mg@vt.edu

A Note About VegetablesThere hasnʼt been a lot of research, but consideration should be made when using rain barrel water on your vegetables - what kind of roof do you have? Are there chemical treatments or zinc strips which may have been applied to your roof to treat mold? Does pollution buildup on roof then wash in a concentrate into the rain barrel? If using - water at the base of the plant, and wash your vegetables before use.

Notes from the Help DeskEvery weekday, from 9am until noon, the Loudoun County Master Gardeners are busy at work at the Help Desk at the Loudoun County Extension office located at 30B Catoctin Circle SE, Leesburg. Questions are emailed or phoned, plant samples are dropped off at the Extension Office, and folks just stop by with their questions. After receiving samples of azalea and peony from Loudoun County resident Mona, the Master Gardeners staffing the Help Desk went to work.

The azalea was determined to be infested with azalea lace bugs, and the peonies had powdery mildew. Lace Bug Damage is first noticed as yellow spots on the upper leaf surfaces of affected plants. Lace bugs actually feed on the undersides of leaves with their piercing-sucking mouthparts, but because they kill surrounding cells as they feed, they cause the yellow spots to appear on upper sides of the leaves. When feeding damage becomes severe, the leaves take on a gray blotched appearance or can turn completely brown. As lace bugs feed they produce brown varnish-like droppings that spot the underside of the leaves. When large numbers of lace bugs are present cast skins can be found attached to the leaves.

Adult Lace Bugs are about 3 to 6 mm (1/8"- 1/4") long with a netlike pattern on the wings. In addition, the wings are dotted with brown and black. The immature stages, called nymphs, are similar except they are smaller and often have spines. The eggs, although small, are easily distinguished by their elongate and cylindrical shape.

What can you do now? Check your azalea and rhododendron plants for possible infections of lace bugs. Note which plants have problems, and mark your calendar for next spring. In Virginia, lace bugs emerge around May. Come spring when the eggs hatch, you can turn your hose on a strong jet and spray the underside of the plant, washing away the nymphs. If you feel a little more in need of blood, a horticultural oil or soap can be applied to the underside of the leaves. Just remember to reapply after a rain or after 10 days.

The Peonies: Mona’s peonies were covered with a white powdery substance, and browning at the edges. The peonies were infected with powdery mildew. Powdery mildew can be considered mainly a cosmetic issue with some plants or could kill new growth, stunting the plant. The fungus prefers dry weather but requires humidity to produce spores. Here, we see it often on peonies and garden phlox, along with shrubs such as photinia, crape myrtle and euonymus. According to the Virginia Cooperative Extension’s Integrated Pest Management Guide, the fungus can be treated with several types of pesticides, including Sulfur, Neem Oil, Jojoba oil, and Myclobutanil (One trade name: Immunox Fungicide by Spectracide). What can you do now? Control the mildew using the above listed pesticides, but most importantly, make sure to do a thorough fall cleanup, disposing of infected plant material into the trash. Do not compost as you make end up spreading the fungus. For more information, see the Virgina Extension Office publication: http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/450/450-603/450-603.html

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Assessing Your TreesThe best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago; the second best time is now! Fall is the time to plant trees but how do you decide what to

plant? First you should understand what you currently have — the types of trees, their ages and health. Then you should think about your goals. Do you want trees to shade your house and lower your air conditioning bills? Do you want trees to beautify your landscape? Do you want trees to support wildlife and a sustainable environment? With the right trees you can have it all. Native trees are beneficial to our lives as they support wildlife in the form of butterflies, bees, birds, and mammals. Natives will also tolerate our weather conditions better than non-natives, as they have had generations to adapt to our unique climate. The many trees listed in this article are all native to our area of Virginia.

Assess what you have. How old are the trees you currently have? Are they in good health? Is there trunk rot visible to the eye? Are there dead limbs at the top of the tree? Both of these are signs that a tree is in decline and may need to be replaced soon. If all your trees are mature is there room for some young ones? A good balance includes a spread in the ages of your trees so you won’t start loosing your older trees without having some others ready to take their place. Do you have a good variety of native trees? The combination of any oak and a flowering dogwood create a good foundation of natives with high wildlife value, trees that host varieties of butterflies as well as berries and nuts for birds and mammals. Increase your diversity with black gum, hickory, beech, birch, sweet gum and red maple.

Trees for shade and beauty. Oak trees are the classic shade trees and their roots don’t cause problems with foundations and sidewalks. Willow oaks are relatively fast growers and their leaves are small and don’t require much raking in the fall. Trees that provide good fall color include black gum, red maple, sourwood, hickory and oaks.

What kinds of wildlife do you want to attract? Many birds love berries. If you want to provide food for robins, bluebirds, finches, mockingbirds, woodpeckers and, if you’re lucky, cedar waxwings, and many other birds, plant serviceberry, black cherry, hackberry, hawthorns, spicebush, crabapple, bayberries, holly, red mulberry and red cedar (jupernicus).

The larvae of butterflies and moths depend on certain types of plants. We are all familiar with the dependence of the monarch larvae on milkweed. But did you know that oak trees support 517 species of lepidoptera? Willows rank next, supporting 456 species, then come cherry, plum, birch, cottonwood, crabapple, maple, elm, pine, hickory and hawthorn.

Trees for bees. Bees need sources of pollen from early spring through fall. Trees supply an important source of pollen. Pollen from some trees produce very notable honey. Black willow or swamp willow and maples provide an important early source of pollen that goes toward feeding the brood. Black locust and black gum or tupelo begin blooming in April and bees feeding on pollen from these trees produce very good honey. The catalpa, linden and tulip tree provide pollen in June and then the sourwood in midsummer. The linden and sourwood both produce very desirable honey.

Give some thought to what you have and to your goals and then plant a native tree.

Master Gardener Carol Ivory

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Cedar Waxwing in Holly

Bare Root Tree Planting - A New MethodFall is an excellent time to plant trees in our area, as the weather is cooler and rainfall is more dependable.  An early fall planting gives the young tree several months to develop a healthy root system.  Experienced gardeners say to plant a $1 tree in a $10 hole, so take the time to make the planting hole up to 5 times as wide and about twice as deep as the root ball.  There is some debate as to whether or not to incorporate organic amendments such as compost into the planting hole;  whichever method you choose, do return the soil you dug out as back fill.  The general opinion is to not use amendments as it creates a barrier between the planting hole and the surrounding soil. If you feel the need to amend the soil,

make sure to dig and loosen the surrounding soil so the roots grow out and into the existing soil.

Considerable research has been conducted by Dr Nina Bassuk at Cornell University focusing on ways to help to develop a healthy root system in newly planted trees.  Whether you purchase a balled-and-burlap tree (which is field grown, then dug up and wrapped in burlap)  or a container grown tree, the roots have been mistreated a great deal.  Take time to inspect the roots of a tree before you purchase it.  If possible, lift the tree out of its container or loosen the burlap to inspect the roots.  They should not be circling the ball or be dried out. Once roots reach a barrier, they will continue circling which is known as girdling;  you may have seen this happen in pot-bound house plants. The main trunk should be secure and not wobbly. 

The roots not only provide water and nutrients to the tree, but also provide structural support, keeping the growing tree upright and straight.  Dr Bonnie Appleton of Virginia Tech states,  "80% of all landscape tree problems originate below ground  -relating to quality and placement of the root system."  (From a presentation at the Master Gardener College at Va Tech, June 2009.)  Because of the importance of establishing a healthy root system, Dr Appleton is experimenting with a technique called 'Bare Rooting.' 

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No girdling present on this tree which was purchased in the early spring. Containerizing it over the hot summer kept it available for watering. It will be bare rooted and planted in the fall, giving it time to develop a good root system for next summer’s heat

This technique involves two aspects:  1)  spreading and untangling tree roots before planting and 2)  'mudding in' the planting hole.  After a proper planting hole is prepared and the roots

are soaked in water to moisten, the tree roots are teased out, removing as much of the original soil as possible from the root ball.  Dr Appleton has even experimented using a power washer to remove the soil from the roots.  This may seem a bit harsh, but the idea is to remove as much soil as possible so the tree sits in the native soil in the planting area.  The bare-rooted tree is placed in the planting hole, resting upon a solid mound of soil and then back filled with the original soil at a depth of 2-3 inches, just below the tree flare.  The tree flare is the base of the tree trunk where it widens slightly and just above where the structural roots begin. 

Immediately after installing the bare rooted tree, begin the 'mudding in' process.  Water is trickled into the planting hole, making a muddy slurry.  The object of this mudding in process is to eliminate air pockets and to insure that all roots have contact with the moist soil.  The soil in the hole is  the consistency of pudding and is maintained for a week or two depending upon the local rain and the weather.  It's important to keep the newly planted tree well-watered as the tiny hairlike roots provide water to the tree and are often damaged during the transplanting process.  A rule of thumb is that 1 inch of water will penetrate 6 inches of soil.  Most lawn irrigation systems do not provide adequate water;  a slow trickle by a garden hose is a much better idea.

Planting a tree is a long term investment, so taking the time and effort to plant a tree properly insures a healthy root system and you will be able to enjoy your tree for a long time.

Master Gardener Linda Ward

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Help Desk: 703/771-5150 - 11 - email: ex107mg@vt.edu

Illustrations compliments of Virginia Tech Publication 420-025

Virginia Tech offers publications on their website (http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/) on the following topics which may help you select trees suitable for our area:

Choosing Trees for Acid Soils  #430-027Choosing Trees for Hot Sites  #430-024Choosing Trees for Screening  #430-025Choosing Trees for Wet and Dry Sites  #430-026Choosing Rare and Unusual Trees  #426-604

Fall ColorHere are a few ideas for some fall interest, one with blooms, one with berries and one with great fall foliage. Take your pick or try several.

Hydrangea paniculata ‘Pinky Winky’ – is a new introduction that blooms July to the first hard frost. The 12 - 16” blooms open white and change to pink, with new white flowers appearing on the same panicle as older pink flowers. Distinctive bi-colored panicles. Soil pH does not affect bloom color. Adaptable to many soils, moderate moisture required. Blooms regardless of climate, soil, pH or pruning. Growing 6 - 8 feet tall, can be easily maintained as a shrub or trained into a small tree. Hardy Hydrangeas bloom on new wood so you can prune in the fall or early spring. Be sure to prune off spent flowers when they turn brown. Plant in sun to partial sun.

Symphoricarpos d. 'Amethyst’ - The mid-summer vivid color of this new coral berry makes it much brighter and showier than that of other coral berry cultivars. It has been reported to be somewhat deer resistant. Growing upright from 3 to 5 feet tall, Amethyst is great in the landscape or can be used in pots on the patio. Beautiful when used as a cut flower it will bring life to any bouquet or floral display. Very tolerant of any soil (lucky for Loudoun gardeners, this plant is native to limestone and clay type soils). Plant in sun or partial shade. Best if pruned in late fall or early spring.

Little Henry® - If the invasive burning bush has good fall color then this native sweetspire plant is a wildfire! This is a great native plant with lots of potential. It prefers moist soils, but will tolerate wet conditions. It will grow in full sun to full shade, and requires little pruning or other maintenance. Little Henry® has lightly scented, pure white flowers that shoot like fireworks in the early summer horizon. It’s mounded, compact and matures at less than 3 feet tall. It is a delightful addition to the mixed

border. Then when you’re not expecting anything more from this little wonder its green summer foliage changes to a brilliant multitude of oranges and reds in the fall, making Little Henry® a rewarding experience through out all seasons.

Master Gardener Becky Phillips

Trumpet Vine Fall 2009

Photo cour tesy o f Spr ing Meadow Nursery

Fall Blooming BulbsIf you need some fall color without any hassles, these fall bulbs are a marvelous investment. You can plant these bulbs now or in the spring, but you must wait until next fall to reap the

benefits of the color.

Lycoris radiata - Spider Lilies sport gorgeous bright red flowers adorned with long, curling filaments (the source of the "spider" moniker). The flowers can be seen from great distances in the garden and last practically forever in a vase. Note that they flower after their foliage hass long since died back, thus giving them the name “Naked Ladies”. Spider lilies prefer partial shade, especially in hot climates, and well-drained soil. Plant 8” deep and 6 to 12” apart. Do be careful of these flowers as they are poisonous. They are used in Japan around rice paddies not only as an ornament, but also to keep mice away.

Leucojum autumnale - Autumn snowflake, is a relative of spring-blooming snowdrops. Snowdrops are one of my favorite spring bulbs and just don’t last long enough. So to have a fall bulb that also bears the same beautiful dainty white bells brings me great joy. It is animal-proof and grows best in sharply drained soil or rock gardens. It is generally considered to be hardy in USDA hardiness zones 7-9.

Autumn crocus and/or Colchicums are two separate genus that are similar looking. The most famous fall-blooming crocus is Crocus sativus, the source of the spice saffron, though C. speciosus is easier to grow and similar in looks. The picture shows Colchicum autumnale ‘Waterlily’. Others to try include; C. agrippinum, C. bivonae 'Apollo', C. byzantinum, C. speciosum – This species

(pictured at right) looks more like a tulip than most colchicums. Both fall-blooming crocus and colchicums generally prefer compost-enriched, well-drained soil in full to partial sun. Colchicums are poisonous to animals and handling the corms can cause skin irritation, so wear gloves while planting them. Several sources suggest planting the Autumn crocus within a ground cover to give the flowers some added support as they flower long after their leaves are gone.

Master Gardener Becky Phillips

Trumpet Vine Fall 2009

Preparing Your Vegetable Beds for WinterIt’s that time of year – time to put your garden to bed! What kinds of garden beds you have determine the what needs be done for the winter months. Focusing on the vegetable garden, there are several steps to consider, and most are applicable to your perennial beds as well.

Clean UpThe first step is to dispose of any accumulated debris from your garden. Plants (both weed and vegetable) about to go to seed need prompt removal so as to reduce unwelcome weed guests or “vegetable volunteers” in the spring.

Diseased plants, such as the tomatoes pictured below, need to be removed entirely from your garden and disposed of in the trash as opposed to

your compost bin. The possibility of tomato blights living through the composting process is slight but do not be tempted. You don’t want next year’s crop ruined by risking infection of next year’s compost.

After disposing of all debris, pull up plant markers and store tomato cages, trellises and etc. An old ladder makes a great bean support, but if it is not stored, it will not last more than a couple of seasons.

Another area to make sure you do a good job of cleanup is any area planted near your home or other structures. As the economy has slowed, many homeowners are finding a spot of soil in which to

plant vegetables – including trellising against the house. While this is wonderful, damage to siding can occur if vegetable matter is allowed to rot against the home.

Fall VegetablesThe second step is to consider planting fall vegetables. Loudoun County is a climate where fall and winter vegetables are possible. Swiss Chard and other greens can over winter in warmer climates, and carry on to a hard freeze in cooler areas (this can be extended by using a row cover or cold frame). Chard is chock full of vitamins and is terrific in winter soups. Other things to think about planting now are onion sets, garlic bulbs, and some types of beans (such as Fava) which will take advantage of fall planting and get a nice early start next spring.

Soil TestThe third and one of the most important steps in the fall is testing your soil. After the debris is cleared from your vegetable beds, now is a great time to test. You can purchase

Trumpet Vine Fall 2009

Arugula - a wonderful spicy addition to your salad, will take over your garden if left to go to seed

soil test kits from your home-garden center or pick one up from the Loudoun County extension office for a free kit (when sent into Virginia Tech, there is a charge for processing). Your test results will indicate what kinds of amendments you may need to add to your soil. The fall is a great time to add amendments, giving them the winter months to work down into the soil.

Plan Next Year’s gardenSince you are out in the garden, pulling dead plants, now is the time to consider what you wish to plant in your vegetable area next year. Bring a piece of graph paper and jot down things that went well this year, and things that did not. Perhaps your trellised beans cast shadow over your squash thus reducing your yield. Take a moment to plan where things should go next year, remembering to rotate your crops. Tomatoes and peppers are plagued by the same diseases, so rotate them as a batch. Beans and peas fix nutrients into the soil, so they are a great crop to plant with high nutrient leaching plants. Also, never plant potatoes near or in beds previously occupied by peppers or tomatoes. In general, leafy veggies like broccoli and lettuces can be kept together, tomatoes, peppers, corn and squash do well together, and carrots and potatoes and radishes seem to like one another. Interplanting all with fragrant herbs such as dill and basil help keep pests at bay.

ContainersIf you have been growing your vegetables in containers, the fall is the time to clean out those pots, discard the soil, and disinfect the container. Use a 10 to 20% solution of bleach to water and scrub your container free of any matter. You don’t want last year’s diseases to hinder next year’s crops. Store your containers for the winter and fill with fresh soil and amendments next spring.

Cover CropsA trip to the USDA Beltsville Maryland Agricultural Research Farm yielded one of the best pieces of advice for home gardeners - cover crops of Hairy Vetch. Vetch can be a huge burden to gardeners

as it is an invasive weed. However, hairy vetch can be controlled. Vetch is a legume - a bean family plant which fixes nitrogen into the soil. Plant seeds of hairy vetch in the fall, pull it in the spring (see right) before the beautiful purple flowers go to seed, but leave the pulled plants on your vegetable plots. Plant your veggies amidst the vetch refuse, and you will reap the benefits of this vetch working as mulch for the spring weed seeds, and vegetative compost for the remainder of the season. As the vetch mulch decays, it turns to compost, providing further nutrients to your plants. The Research Farm studies showed that diseases of tomato plants were greatly reduced when keeping their cover crop Hairy Vetch as a mulch. To read the research, go online: http://www.ars.usda.gov/IS/np/SustainableTomatoes2007/SustainableTomatoes2007Intro.htm

Hairy Vetch seeds can be purchased online at several sites, such as http://www.seedsofchange.com/ and http://henryfields.com/

Master Gardener Linda Shotton

Trumpet Vine Fall 2009

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