Traditional tie Traditional tie and dye and dye

techniquestechniques

TIE AND DYE • Tie-dye is a process of resist dyeing textiles or clothing which is made

from knit or woven fabric, usually cotton; typically using bright colors. It is a modern version of traditional dyeing methods used in many cultures throughout the world

ORIGIN THROUGHOUT• Tie-dye became fully developed in China during the T'ang dynasty (618-906

A.D.) and in Japan during the Nara period (552-794 A.D.). The availability of silk and hemp, which are very receptive to the resist technique, made these countries' art outstanding. Some early tribes in Western China, South East Asia, and Central America tied and dyed the threads before weaving their cloth.

• The tie-dye methods using cotton and silk were passed down in Japan, Indonesia, and Southeast Asia, while cotton and raffia were used in many parts of Africa. Pre-Columbian Peruvians used wool and cotton to make ikat designs in their weaving.

• From 1568 to 1603, in what's known as the Momoyama period, tsujigahana reached its height. This is an art combining tie-dye with ornamental drawing using Chinese ink called sumi.

• These kimonos exhibit interesting variations in the use of tie-dye. One variation was the creation of a white area by tying off a large piece of the material before dyeing. Ink would then be used to draw pictures on the white area. In another design, rice would be tied into the material in little circles, so that when the material was dipped in blue dye

• Other forms of tie-dye can be found in other countries around the world. Varied styles of tie-dye have emerged to distinguish the different nations of Africa, the Indian tie-dye technique called Bandhani, also known as Bandhni and Bandhej, is the oldest tie-dye tradition we know that is still practiced. The Malay-Indonesian name for this technique is Plangi. The technique involves a design made of dots, in which many small points are tied with thread before immersion dyeing.

TIEAND DYE AT DIFFERENT PLACES Bandhani: Indian tie-dye technique• Bandhani, also known as Bandhni and Bandhej, is the oldest tie-dye

tradition we know that is still practiced. The Malay-Indonesian name for this technique is ‘ Plangi '. The technique involves a design made of dots, in which many small points are tied with thread before immersion dyeing.

Shibori: Japanese tie-dye (and stitch-dye, fold-dye, and pole wrap-dye)• Japanese tie-dye is included among the many techniques of shibori, which

has been used for many centuries to make different types of beautiful patterns on cloth used for elaborate kimonos. An excellent resource on this subject is Wada, Rice, and Barton's book, Shibori: The Inventive Art of Japanese Shaped Resist.

Asia• The earliest mention of tie-dye in historical records comes from China and

Japan. In China they were using tie-dye from 618 to 906 C.E. during the T'ang dynasty. In Japan they used tie-dye from 552 to 794 C.E., also known as the Nara period. These people used dyes from naturally growing flowers, berries, roots and leaves such as lichen, blackberries, onion, indigo, sage and marigold. They extracted the color from those items by boiling them in hot water and then dipping the cloth into the water and letting it seep.

African Tie Dye• It is well known that tie-dye has traditionally been used in Africa, and there

are many modern examples. However, I have never been able to find any reference on the history of this practice, in particular nothing on how long it has been going on.

Momoyama Period• During the Momoyama Period, from 1568 to 1603, a new type of tie-dye known

as tsujigahana appeared. This process involved using tie-dye in combination with sumi, which is a type of Chinese ink. Cloth pieces were laid down and the image or sketch drawn on the fabric with the ink. The garment was then dipped into the dye, which colored the surrounding fabric and made the design look darker.

Great Depression• The use of tie-dye came back into style during the 1920s and 1930s in the period

known as the Roaring 20s and during the Great Depression. Pamphlets were given out to people showing them different ways of decorating their homes and designing clothing using tie-dye. These pamphlets showed women how to use old cotton flour, coffee and sugar sacks and then create clothes and home decorations. The idea was to have new-looking things without spending a lot of money.

1960s• The 1960s are the era most often associated with tie-dye, especially with reference to

the hippie lifestyle. Few people can forget the image of women and men clad in tie-dye dancing to the music at Woodstock. The reason the style became popular again was because it was an easy and inexpensive way to express individuality. Concerts used banners covered in different tie-dyed colors, and people wore shirts that showed their own personal colors. Those living during this era appreciated the fact that no two shirts looked alike, even when dyed in the same colors.

1980s and Beyond• Every few years tie-dye shirts come back into style, but in the 1980s it really hit a high

point as designers began incorporating the look into their shows. Changes in technology also led to new types of dye and paint being used. The older dyes seldom had any staying power and began fading after a few washes. The new dyes were more permanent and were available in many different shades and colors. Today tie-dye shirts are available in the traditional bright colors, black and white and even pastels.

 

Bandhani is a tie and dye technique from India.

Small sections of fabric are tied with thread to create designs and motifs.

It takes many hours to tie the most intricate patterns.

Often more ties are added to the fabric before it is dyed for a second or third time.

There are many different traditional ways of tying fabric in India.

In Udaipur the local name for tie and dye is chundri.

Another special name is leharia. This is an effect that looks like waves across the fabric.

Turbans in Rajasthan are often dyed with a striped leharia pattern.

Another traditional pattern is made from many dots.

PROCESS• Tie-dying is accomplished by folding the material into a pattern, and binding

it with string or rubber bands. Dye is then applied to only parts of the material. The ties prevent the entire material from being dyed. Designs are formed by applying different colors of dyes to different sections of the wet fabric.

DYE• Although many different kinds of dyes may be used, most tie-dyers now dye

with Procion MX fibres reactive dyes.This class of dyes works at warm room temperatures; the molecules permanently bind with cellulose based fibers (cotton, rayon, hemp, linen), as well as silk, when the pH is raised. Soda ash (sodium carbonate) is generally used to raise the pH

Tying the fabric on the marks with fine thread.

Tied and ready to dye.

Measuring the dye for the fabric.

Mixing the dye in water and heating to make the dye bath.

The dye bath ready to add the fabric.

Dip dyeing the fabric in one colour.

The first colour is ready.

The dyed fabric is carefully rinsed ready for the second colour.

Tying the fabric and binding with polythene to resist the second dye.

Dip dyeing the fabric in the second colour.

After the second dyeing the fabric it is rinsed in cold water.

The ties are not removed until the fabric is sold, to show that it is genuine bandhani.

Some examples of completed tie and dye fabric

Some examples of completed tie and dye fabric

Some examples of completed tie and dye fabric

Some examples of completed tie and dye fabric

Some examples of completed tie and dye fabric

Some examples of completed tie and dye fabric.

Some examples of completed tie and dye fabric

Some examples of completed tie and dye fabric

Some examples of completed tie and dye fabric

Some examples of completed tie and dye fabric.

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