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University of North Carolina at Charlotte School of Architecture Labs Manual DRAFT

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Page 1: University of North Carolina at Charlotte DRAFT … · University of North Carolina at Charlotte School of Architecture Labs Manual DRAFT. Introduction ... The Labs are to be used

University of North Carolina at CharlotteSchool of ArchitectureLabs ManualDRA

FT

Page 2: University of North Carolina at Charlotte DRAFT … · University of North Carolina at Charlotte School of Architecture Labs Manual DRAFT. Introduction ... The Labs are to be used

Introduction .................................................................................................................................................................1Facility Access ..............................................................................................................................................................2Lab Rules and Guidelines .....................................................................................................................................3General Safety .............................................................................................................................................................4First Aid ............................................................................................................................................................................5Machine and Tool Listing ...................................................................................................................................... 8

WOOD LAB ..................................................................................................................................................................... 9Basic Layout Tools .................................................................................................................................................................10Files, Rasps and Surforms ......................................................................................................................................................11Nailing ..................................................................................................................................................................................12Sawing ..................................................................................................................................................................................13Cutting .................................................................................................................................................................................14Clamps ..................................................................................................................................................................................15Glues and Adhesives..............................................................................................................................................................16Abrasives ...............................................................................................................................................................................18Sanders .................................................................................................................................................................................19Sabre Saw/Handheld Jig Saw ................................................................................................................................................20Scroll Saw/Stationary Jig Saw .............................................................................................................................................. 20

METALS LAB ................................................................................................................................................................ 21

DIGITAL FABRICATION LAB ................................................................................................................................ 22

LASER LAB ...................................................................................................................................................................23

CONTENTS

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The Labs of the School of Architecture exist to advance specific research, design development, and personal projects by its current students, faculty and staff. The use of the Labs is a privilege and shall be treated as such. Anyone misusing equipment or not abiding by lab policies will be denied continued access. We strive to operate a safe environment for students and faculty to explore materials and how these materials can be safely and effectively utilized. Ultimately, individual lab users are responsible for their personal safety by knowing the correct procedures for using the tools and equipment located within the labs. It is the explicit responsibility of all users to familiarize themselves thoroughly with all Safety Rules and Operating Procedures of the Laboratories of the School of Architecture and to acquire the skills required to run the lab equipment prior to participating in its use. Working around machinery is by its nature, potentially dangerous. This manual gives basic knowledge of how and when to utilize most of the tools. However, not all procedures can be covered in a manual, and asking for assistance from the staff before proceeding with any task is always recommended.

Despite the fact that machines can randomly fail, the vast majority of accidents and injuries result from operator malfunction. Never proceed with any task until you are sure you know what you are doing. Exercise extreme caution and employ common sense at all times.

Virtually all accidents that occur in the labs, from splinters to serious injury, damaged equipment to wasted material, are preventable. Despite this, accidents continue to happen to novice and experienced users alike. There are four major reasons for accidents:

• Inexperience or overconfidence - Users should respect the tools, but never fear them. Inexperience leads to fear and an inability to react appropriately when the unexpected arises. Overconfidence often leads to a false sense of security and an attitude that “nothing will happen to me.”

• Unexpected events - Many tools in the Labs, especially the stationary machines, are powerful, and can quickly overcome the user. The most common occurrence is kickback on the table saw. Unexpected, yes. Uncommon, no. This accident group also includes falls, punctures, clothing getting caught, and other risks that can usually be avoided by following general safety precautions.

• Haste - Careful planning is the mark of successful work. Estimate your time and plan accordingly. Imagine all the steps necessary to complete your work, assign them a time, add it all up, and then multiply by three. Anticipate that mistakes will occur so that they become opportunities for improvement rather than stress inducers. Sample unknown procedures in advance, and do not leave your work for the last minute.

• Inattention through repetition - This occurs most often in production environments where the user becomes hurried or complacent during repetitive actions. Slow down and think. When performing repetitive work, pause and refocus frequently.

The expression of individual design, the understanding of traditional and contemporary materials and processes, and the demands and frustrations associated with the making of built objects, are complimentary skills that once undertaken personally, enable designers to better define and appreciate their objectives.

Introduction

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The Labs of The School of Architecture are comprised of five separate environments located on the ground floor of Storrs Building:

• Daylighting Lab - room 122• Wood Lab - room 130• Metals Lab - room 140• Digital Fabrications Lab - room 148• Laser Lab - room 148b (located within room 148)

The Labs are to be used by qualified students, faculty, and staff of the School of Architecture who are enrolled and have completed the Basic Orientation Session. Under no circumstances are any College labs to be utilized for individual commercial gain. Hours of operation vary and will be posted each semester at the entry to each lab. At no time is anyone to operate machinery alone or in the absence of a paid university employee. Additional access to the labs may be granted to qualified faculty who are approved and have the Faculty Responsibilities and Waiver of Liability form signed and on file in the school office.

Freshman students within the School of Architecture will attend a mandatory Basic Shop Orientation. First year instructors are responsible for scheduling their class during fall semester. Before attendance, the Lab Manual must be read thoroughly. Upon completion, students are allowed access to the labs and will be eligible to participate in tutorials that cover the use of advanced equipment.

Classes requiring the use of the labs by more than 12 students must notify the labs at least two weeks in advance. The instructor must also alert the Director of Labs to project requirements, expectations, materials, completion date, etc. This policy ensures students will have access, staffing, and the proper equipment/knowledge ready and available. Classes must continue to follow lab guidelines, including but not limited to:

• Maximum lab occupancy of 12 students per attendant.• Limitations as to minimum part sizes and maximum project scale.• Material restrictions and capabilities• The instructor is required to be present when additional staff is not available

Emergency Procedures

In the event of an emergency, notify UNCC Campus Police by using the direct dial orange emergency phone located on the wall at the pass through door from the Wood Lab to the Metals Lab. Identify yourself, your location, and the nature of the occurrence. Protect yourself first prior to administering any assistance or first aid. Sterile gloves are located in the first aid box on the wall to the left of the scrub sink in the Wood Lab. If at all possible, do not leave an injured person unattended. Help can also be reached by the yellow emergency phone box in the corridor adjacent to the downstairs women’s rest rooms, by dialing 911 on any campus phone, or dialing University Police at 704.687.2200 on any cell phone.

Facility Access

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• Prior to utilizing the labs, all persons must have read the Labs Manual and completed the Basic Orientation.• Eye protection must be worn when operating any power equipment. Safety glasses are available in the

lab, however, for hygiene and individual needs, it is recommended that each student acquire their own. Individuals are responsible for wearing dust masks, and hearing protection when needed.

• Tools and equipment are not to be removed from the labs. Anyone removing tools or willfully abusing equipment will lose lab privileges.

• Do not harass or make unreasonable requests of lab TAs. They have the responsibility, and you don’t.• Do not enter the tool room or store-room without first checking with the attendant.• Do not set food or drinks on lab surfaces, especially stationary machine tables.• All accidents, injuries, and equipment damage or failure must be reported immediately to the employee on

duty and then to the Director of Labs.• No more than 12 people are permitted in the labs at one time. Larger classes requiring the labs at one time

need to be scheduled in advance, and an instructor provided to assist with the overload.• Lab guests are not permitted to operate any equipment.• Be considerate of others. Clean up your completed work areas before going on to your next task.• All lab users are to clean the equipment and the room following each work session.• The outdoor yard is to be swept clean when you are done working. Do not leave nails, cut-off fasteners, or

scrap metal on the surfaces where vehicles drive. Do not obstruct any of the lift doors.• Storage of large materials and projects is allowed at the Director’s approval only. Unauthorized materials

and projects left for more than 24 hours will be discarded.• Personal projects are permitted as long as they are not for profit, do not interfere with the school’s

educational goals, or take up excessive space for too long.• The Labs are cleaned after each semester, and all personal items are subject to removal.• Gluing and finishing should take place in designated areas only.• Back-off clamps and replace them on racks when finished.• Individuals are responsible for providing all of their project materials. If you are looking for a small piece

of material, come by and ask. We try and save usable scrap to pass on to others. Also, if you know that something is not yours, do not take it without asking first.

• We are not a hardware store. However, modest amounts of disposables, such as sandpaper, glue, and screws are available for the asking.

• Do not put any glues, solvents, or foreign matter in the sinks.

Lab Rules and Guidelines

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• Do not enter the labs while tired or under the influence of medications causing drowsiness.• Alcohol and non-prescription drugs are prohibited on the UNCC campus.• Eye protection must be worn; dust masks and hearing protection are recommended.• Jewelry should be removed and long hair tied back.• Open toe shoes are prohibited.• Loose clothing is a hazard and should be secured.• Gloves are not to be used when operating machinery.• No horseplay, running, yelling, or sudden movements towards persons at machines.• Never distract someone while they are using a machine. Step back and wait.• Never leave a moving machine unattended.• Keep your focus on your activity.• Clean up after yourself. A clean area minimizes accidents.• Never use equipment without a thorough understanding of its operation and your safety.• Do not make adjustments to machines without first checking with attendant.• Report any machine damage or tool failure immediately.• Please do not attempt machine repairs. Notify Lab Director if you know of or sense a problem.• Do not use Vise Grips on any machine or tool. Do not overtighten knobs and controls.• Avoid awkward operations. Use push sticks whenever applicable.• Headphones are prohibited. Equipment sounds in the lab communicate important information. Learn to

listen and understand sounds both good and bad.• Purposeful damage of property will be cause for forfeiture of lab privileges.• No plaster or cement in the Wood or Metals labs.• No pressure treated or painted lumber is to be used on machinery. The use of recycled materials in the labs

will be at the discretion of the Director.• Dispose of spray paints, solvents, and oily rags in designated areas and containers. Any rags used for

finishing need to be placed in the red, flammable disposal container located opposite the sink in the Wood Lab when done.

• Make sure all gas lines are bled and tank regulators closed following their use.• Compressed air regulators should never be set to exceed 80 psi operating pressure.• Never point air guns directly at your skin, towards your face, or in the direction of another person.• Treat hand tools with respect and caution. They can cause injury, especially if they are blunt or mishandled.

General Safety

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Cuts, Scrapes, and Splinters

Minor cuts and scrapes usually don’t require a trip to the emergency room. Yet proper care is essential to avoid infection or other complications. These guidelines can help you care for simple wounds:

Protect yourself first. To avoid the transfer of bodily fluids, put on a pair of sterilized gloves before administering first aid. Gloves are located in the first aid box next to the sink in the Wood Lab.

Stop the bleeding. Minor cuts and scrapes usually stop bleeding on their own. If they don’t, apply gentle pressure with a clean cloth or bandage. Hold the pressure continuously for 20 to 30 minutes and if possible elevate the wound. Don’t keep checking to see if the bleeding has stopped because this may damage or dislodge the clot that’s forming and cause bleeding to resume. If blood spurts or continues flowing after continuous pressure, seek medical assistance.

Clean the wound. Rinse out the wound with clear water. Soap can irritate the wound, so try to keep it out of the actual wound. If dirt or debris remains in the wound after washing, use tweezers cleaned with alcohol to remove the particles. If debris still remains, see your doctor. Thorough cleaning reduces the risk of infection and tetanus. To clean the area around the wound, use soap and a washcloth. There’s no need to use hydrogen peroxide, iodine or an iodine-containing cleanser.

Apply an antibiotic. After you clean the wound, apply a thin layer of an antibiotic cream or ointment such as Neosporin or Polysporin to help keep the surface moist. The products don’t make the wound heal faster, but they can discourage infection and help your body’s natural healing process. Certain ingredients in some ointments can cause a mild rash in some people. If a rash appears, stop using the ointment.

Cover the wound. Bandages can help keep the wound clean and keep harmful bacteria out. After the wound has healed enough to make infection unlikely, exposure to the air will speed healing.

Change the dressing. Change the dressing at least daily or whenever it becomes wet or dirty. If you’re allergic to the adhesive used in most bandages, switch to adhesive-free dressings or sterile gauze held in place with paper tape, gauze roll or a loosely applied elastic bandage. These supplies generally are available at pharmacies.

Get stitches for deep wounds. A wound that is more than 1/4-inch (6 millimeters) deep or is gaping or jagged edged and has fat or muscle protruding usually requires stitches. Adhesive strips or butterfly tape may hold a minor cut together, but if you can’t easily close the wound, see your doctor as soon as possible. Proper closure within a few hours reduces the risk of infection.

Watch for signs of infection. See your doctor if the wound isn’t healing or you notice any redness, increasing pain, drainage, warmth or swelling.

Get a tetanus shot. Doctors recommend you get a tetanus shot every 10 years. If your wound is deep or dirty and your last shot was more than five years ago, your doctor may recommend a tetanus shot booster. Get the booster as soon as possible after the injury.

First Aid

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Burns

Burns are injuries to tissue that can be caused by fire, the sun, chemicals, heated objects or fluids, electricity, or other means. Burns can be minor medical problems or life-threatening emergencies.

Burn treatment depends on the severity and size of the burn. You can treat most minor burns at home using first-aid measures, such as cooling the skin and applying an anesthetic cream or aloe gel to the burn. Deep or widespread burns need immediate medical attention.

For minor burns, do the following:

Cool the burn. Hold the affected area under cold running water far at least 5 minutes. Do not use ice and do not apply ointments.

Cover the burn. Cover the burn with sterile gauze. Pads are located in the first aid box. Do not use fluffy cotton. Wrap gauze loosely, and avoid placing pressure on the wound.

Pain relief. Take an over the counter pain reliever. Watch for signs of infection. Do not puncture any blisters that might develop.

First Aid (con’t.)

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Fainting

Fainting occurs when the blood supply to your brain is momentarily inadequate, causing you to lose conscious-ness. This loss of consciousness is usually brief.

Fainting can have no medical significance, or the cause can be a serious disorder. Therefore, treat loss of consciousness as a medical emergency until the signs and symptoms are relieved and the cause is known. Just before fainting, a person may feel light headed, dizzy, see spots, or experience nausea. You might observe the loss of color in someone’s face or feel skin that is cool and possibly damp to the touch.

If you feel faint:Lie down or sit down. To reduce the chance of fainting again, don’t get up too quickly.Place your head between your knees if you sit down.

If someone else faints:Catch the person before he/she falls, if at all possible. This can best be done by placing your arms under the person’s armpits and lowering them to the ground.Position the person on his or her back. If the person is breathing, restore blood flow to the brain by raising the person’s legs above heart level — about 12 inches (30 centimeters) — if possible. Loosen belts, collars or other constrictive clothing. To reduce the chance of fainting again, don’t get the person up too quickly. If the person doesn’t regain consciousness within one minute, call 911 or your local emergency number.Check the person’s airway to be sure it’s clear. Turn victim’s head to the side, so that their tongue does not fall back into the throat. Watch for vomiting.Apply moist towels to the face and neck.Keep person warm if the environment is coldCheck for signs of circulation (breathing, coughing or movement). If absent, begin CPR. Call 911 or your local emergency number. Continue CPR until help arrives or the person responds and begins to breathe.

If the person was injured in a fall associated with a faint, treat any bumps, bruises or cuts appropriately. Control bleeding with direct pressure.Do not slap the person to try an awaken.Do not give the person anything to drink or eat until they are fully conscious.

First Aid (con’t.)

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Wood Lab - Room 130

Hegner 22” Jigsaw15” General Wood Cutting Bandsaw (2)20” General Wood Cutting BandsawJDS Multi-RouterHitachi 75F Resaw Bandsaw6” Delta Jointer12” Northfield JointerRockwell 1” Belt GrinderRockwell 12” Radial Arm SawOneway Mod. 2436 Wood LatheMultico Hollow Chisel MortiserHorizontal Slot MortiserGrizzly 20” Disc SanderGeneral Mod. 100 16” Disc/6” x 48” Belt Combination SanderMAX Oscillating Spindle SanderHegner Modelers TablesawGeneral 20” Spiral Head Thickness PlanerTimesaver Mod. 100 37”x 60” Abrasive ThicknesserSaw Stop 10” TablesawDelta 15” v.s. Drill Press48” x 96” Vacuum Press (rm. 148)

Metals Lab - Room 140

48” Shear24” & 48” Finger Brakes48” Metal Roller48” 90 deg. BrakePipe and Rod Bending FormerGrinders/SandersBuffer/Wire WheelAbrasive Cut-off GrinderDi-Acro Punch PressDelta 15” v.s. Drill PressKalamazoo 12” Cold SawGeneral 15” BandsawDoAll 20” Bandsaw w/Blade WelderCraftsman Metal LatheSpot Welder, Arc Welder, MIG WelderWater Cooled TIG Welder/RectifierThermal Dynamics StakPak Plasma Cutter

Digital Fabrications Lab - Room 148

48” x 96” AXYZ 3-Axis CNC Router48” x 96” CNC Plasma CutterZ-Corp Mod. 310 3D PrinterStratasys Dimension 3D FDM Printer15” x 20” Vacu-forming MachineFletcher Mod. 3000 50” Wall Mounted Sheet Cutter(cardboard, plastic, glass)

Laser Lab - Room 148b

Universal 18” x 32” 60 W. Laser Engraver/CutterUniversal 24” x 48” 150W. Laser Engraver/Cutter

Machine and Tool Listing

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WOOD LABLayout Files, Rasps, Surforms Nailing Hand Saws Cutting Tools Clamps Glues Abrasives

Sanders Grinding Tools Sabre Saw/Scroll Saw Drill Press/Hand Drill Stationery Sanders Panel Saw Band Saw Sliding Compound/Miter Saws Router

Table Saws Wood Lathe Vacu-former Planer & Jointer Milling Machine

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Squares: Squares are the most common layout tool in the shop. There are many varieties, each with a best application based on size, task, increments, and required level of precision.

Engineers: All steel construction and highly accurate. Utilized mostly for machine set-up and precision layout. Engineers squares are not “scaled” with measurement numbers.

Try Square: A “fixed” square for general woodworking. May or may not include measurements.

Combination Square: Composed of a body and an adjustable blade (scale). Can be used for a variety of tasks, including 45 and 90 degree angle reading, depth setting, and direct measurements. Inexpensive “combo squares” are made of plastic and are much less dependable that cast metal and machined iron. All squares will become much less accurate if the scale is routinely removed and replaced or if dropped. Some combination squares also include small scribes or spirit levels.

Sliding Bevel or T-Bevel: Not a square, but useful to mark and transfer angles.

Engineer’s Scale

Try Square

Combination Square

Sliding Bevel

Tape Outside Calipers

Engineer’s Scale Dial Calipers

Steel Rule Marking Gauge

Dividers

Measuring:Tape: Flexible steel tape used for general purpose marking, Easy to carry and available in a variety of lengths and widths.

Engineers Scale (Pocket Rule): Rigid or lightly flexible steel rule. Convenient for making exact measurements. Markings can be in 10ths and 100ths, millimeters, or English fractions.

Steel Rule: Common in 2-4 foot lengths in a variety or markings.

Dividers: Useful for transferring dimensions fro a scale or drawing to a part. Can also be used to scribe circles.

Outside Calipers: Useful to transfer dimensions from or to a part. Commonly used with the lathe and general layout.

Dial Calipers: Used for exacting measurement and machine tool setting. Reads in thousandths or .001”.

Marking Gauge: Used to scribe lines in wood at fixed distances from an edge. Varieties include tennoning gauges and metal marking gauges.

Basic Layout Tools

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Surforms:

• Used to remove a lot of material quickly, Surforms blades have stamped teeth that are similar to rasps but cut more cleanly and once blunted, are replaceable. They come in flat and half-round and are inserted into a common handle. They are best used on wood and foam, but can shape plaster, as well.

Files:• Used to remove and smooth wood, plastics, and metal. Common lengths

are 10 and 12 inches.• Bastard files remove the most material of the file groups. They leave a

rough cut and usually require further cleanup. These files rough to the touch.

• Second Cut files are best for metal and plastics. These, too, are coarse to the touch.

• Mill, or Smooth files, are good for plastics and metals and leave a much cleaner finish.

• Though files come in a myriad of shapes and sizes, common ones include: flat, round (rat-tail), half-round, square, and triangular.

• Needle files are small, delicate files that are used for detail work. They can be used on most materials and come in a variety of shapes.

• Depending on materials and the user, files will clog quite quickly and need to be carded, or cleaned continuously. Holding files by their cutting surfaces will deposit oils on the teeth. This will slow cutting and cause them to clog even more quickly.

• Do not return clogged or dirty files to their rack.• Coarse files can be used on plaster, but MUST be cleaned immediately.

The same hold true for Bondo, if fully cured!

Rasps:• Used to quickly remove material,and are best used on wood and foam.• Rasps also come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Ones for detail work are

called rifflers and can be very expensive.• 4-in-1 is the most versatile. It combines a flat and half round rasp with a

flat and half round file in one tool.

Files, Rasps and Surforms

Bastard File

Second Cut File

Mill File

Needle Files

4-in-1 Rasp

Surform

Surform

Rifflers

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Nailing

Claw Hammer

Carver’s Mallet

Nail Set

Ball Peen Hammer

Air Nailer

Rubber Mallet

Hammers:Hammers are the most basic of tools but still come in a variety of sizes, shapes, and materials.Always select the correct hammer for the task at hand.Never strike the work with the side of the hammer.To avoid damage, utilize a scrap block against the work when striking. Safety glasses should be worn whenever using hammers.

Claw Hammer: Sometimes nothing can beat the original. In addition to inserting nails, the claw can be used to pull and straighten. Available in a variety of weights, lengths,and shapes. Often attracted to thumbs and finger tips, so be careful!

Nail Set: Used with a hammer to lightly set finishing nails below the surface without leaving a mark. Small hole can then be filled with putty to match the color of the wood or be sanded and painted.

Air Nailers: These tools are great time savers which utilize nail magazines that are loaded and then fired with the assistance of air pressure. They can be extremely dangerous and require familiarity and instruction prior to use. Safety triggers prevent rapid discharge and are to be kept in place at all times. We do not utilize nail guns, but rather bradders (small nails), a wire nailer (little bigger than brads), and a crown stapler (U-shaped fastener that will not blow through when attaching thin materials). Fasteners are brand specific. They are available in the tool room or can be purchased at the home stores. Penetration is varied by the amount of air pressure coming from the regulator, and should be tested with a scrap of the same material prior to nailing the finished pieces (see assistant for help). The tip of the gun must be perpendicular to and in direct contact with the work for a successful discharge. NEVER POINT A NAIL GUN TOWARDS ANYTHING BUT YOUR WORK!

Rubber Mallet or Dead Blow Mallet: Used for hammering items without causing damage and finessing parts into place. Mallets are not used for driving nails.

Carver’s Mallet: Used for tapping chisels and carving tools.

Ball Peen Hammer: Used to Hammer cold chisels and punches. Also helpful to shape unhardened metal. Not intended for hammering nails.

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Sawing

Coping Saw

Backsaw

Hacksaw

Japanese Saw

Ripsaw

Crosscut

Handsaws:Coping Saw: Sometimes nothing can beat the original. In addition to inserting nails, the claw can be used to pull and straighten. Available in a variety of weights, lengths,and shapes. Often attracted to thumbs and finger tips, so be careful!

Hacksaw: Used with a hammer to lightly set finishing nails below the surface without leaving a mark. Small hole can then be filled with putty to match the color of the wood or be sanded and painted.

Ripsaw: This saw cuts on the push stroke. For cutting with the grain. Teeth are set at 90 degrees to the blade.

Crosscut: This saw cuts on the push stroke. For cutting perpendicular to the grain. Teeth are set 75-80 degrees to the blade.

Crosscut: This saw cuts on the push stroke. Similar to crosscut, but shorter in length.

Backsaw: These saws cut on the push stroke. The name is derived from the rigid metal spine along the top of the thin blade that adds strength and support. Types of back saws include Tenon, Dovetail, and Gents. The differences are length, grip style, and number of teeth per inch, or T.P..I. More teeth produce a finer cut. These saws are for wood only and are commonly used for furniture joinery.

Japanese Saws: These are very thin, fine teeth saws that are used for joinery and detail work in wood. They are able to produce an extremely fine kerf because they cut on the pull stroke, and are therefore, self tensioning. There are many varieties for cutting at different angles to the grain, and even ones that have replaceable saw blades.

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Cutting

Chisels

Hand Punch

Gouges

Cold Chisel

Plane

Aviation Shears

Spokeshave

Chisels: Used to trim and shape wood, and produce joinery. Usually in sets ranging from 1/8” - 2”. Chisels should not be used on metal or masonry, as a prying device, or as a screw driver. As with most edge tools, chisels need to be handled carefully and should maintained in a sharp condition.

Gouges: Used similar to chisels, though their unusual shapes make them the common tool for carving wood. Curved section, or “sweep” allows certain gouges to cut concave and convex surfaces. Gouges are useful for removing material quickly and for imparting texture to surfaces.

Planes: Used for straightening and smoothing wood. There are dozens of shapes and sizes of hand planes, from small finger and block planes to very long jointer planes. The most common planes are the 8” long smoother, and the 14” long jack plane. One of the most unusual planes is the compass plane, which has a flexible metal sole and is used for smoothing radiused surfaces and edges. For proper function, the cutting edge must be exquisitely sharp and all of the many components positioned exactly. With a little patience and experience, the plane can facilitate minute adjustments and often outperform motorized machinery.

Spokeshave: Originally used to hand-shape the spokes of wooden carriage wheels, the spokeshave is most often used to form irregular shapes and shape carved table legs. The blade is similar to a plane and is positioned firmly in a cast iron handle. The spoke shave is a small and refined cousin to the draw knife.

Hand Punch: Used to punch small holes in rubber, plastic, and thin gauge sheet metal.

Cold Chisel: Steel chisels used for metal. Uses might include cutting rivets, rusted nuts and bolts, and cleaning welds.

Aviation Shears: Used to cut THIN SHEET METAL ONLY. Yellow is for straight, red for left curves, and green for right curves.

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Clamps

Bar Clamp

C-Clamp

Pipe Clamp

Spring Clamp

Quick Grip Clamp

Corner Clamp

Parallel Jaw Clamp

Clamps come in an incredible variety to facilitate the different assembly demands in the shop. Select the proper clamp based on jaw depth, bar length, and the amount of pressure that is required to complete the assembly. Lighter weight clamps should not be used for heavy or large glue-ups. Clamps have a habit of leaving irreparable dents, so use blocks and protecting strips as required. To ensure success, perform as many “dry” assemblies as necessary before introducing any glue. Return clamps to their rack clean and backed-off, ready for the next person.

Bar Clamp: Threaded handle tightens against the work. When loose, the handle can be slid freely along the length of the bar and adjusted to within its length limits. Select lighter weight bar clamps for light assemblies and the stronger, thicker bars for applications that require a lot of force, such as laminating.

Pipe Clamp: May have round black pipe or rectangular steel bar to link a fixed, threaded head to an adjustable tail. These clamps range in length from 3 to 8 feet and are best for edge to edge clamping, such as panels and table tops.

Quick Grip Clamp: Very handy when working alone, these clamps can also be reversed and used as a spreader. Though very convenient for one hand use, Quick Grips flex a lot and are unable to apply as much pressure as a screw-type clamp. A quick pull on the trigger lever will release the pressure.

Parallel Jaw Clamp: Traditional wood clamp that can be used to apply even pressure along the entire jaw length. The jaws can be angled both in and out to allow for localized point pressure.

C-Clamp: A good general use clamp for both wood and metal. C-clamps come in a myriad of sizes from 1” and up.

Spring Clamp: Used for light clamping and placement, c-clamps are best for quick set-ups and use as a third hand.

Vise Grip: Available in a variety of shapes and sizes, vise grips can quickly clamp materials to a surface or drill press table. Pressure can be adjusted by turning the screw knob in the end of the handle.

Corner Clamp: Used to clamp a mitred corners while gluing and nailing.

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Glues and Adhesives

Plastic Resin Glue

Polyurethane Glue

White Glue

Yellow Glue

Liquid Hide

Adhesives can be general or specific, and can react very differently depending on temperature, materials, age, or clamping conditions. Color, open-time, moisture resistance, cost, and archival expectations are important factors to consider when selecting an adhesive. Always read the label before applying any adhesive.

White Glue: $.24/oz. (Polyvinyl Acetate)• Strong bond - Sets fast. Clamp time one hour.• Ideal for home, shop & crafts.• Water cleanup & non-toxic.• FDA approved for indirect food contact.• No offensive odor.• “Creep” (slippage but not release) can be an issue in the long term.• Nonflammable.• Dries clear.

Yellow Glue: $.36/oz. (Aliphatic Resin Emulsion)• Fast set - Shortens clamp time to about 30 minutes.• Bonds stronger than wood.• Excellent heat and solvent-resistance.• Excellent sandability.• Unaffected by finishes.• Versatile - Bonds wood, hardboard, high pressure laminates and

particleboard.• Easy cleanup with water.

Liquid Hide Glue: (Natural Protein Emulsion)• Reversible.• Ideal for instrument making, fine furniture assembly and repair.• Excellent sandability.• Unaffected by finishes.• Excellent creep-resistance.• Can be used to create a “crackling effect” on wood.• Slow set allows precise assembly.

Polyurethane Glue: $1.20/oz. (Polyurethane solids)• 100% waterproof (Passes ANSI Type I & II water-resistance testing)• Bonds virtually everything.• Epoxy-like strength without mixing.• Short clamp & fast cure.• Excellent sandability.• Excellent gap filling.• Solvent free.• Discoloration is difficult to remove from skin.

Plastic Resin Glue: $5./lb (Powder) to $2./oz. (Two-part). (Urea Resin)• Liquid resins generally come with a powdered catalyst, while powdered

plastic resin glue is usually pre-catalyzed and pre-formulated and can easily be mixed with water.

• Excellent, no-creep adhesive for high strength and wood laminations.• Open time can be varied greatly by varying the mix proportions.• Once cured, is tough on machine and hand tool edges. (It’s plastic for

Pete’s sake!)

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Glues and Adhesives (con’t.)

Contact Cement

Cyanoacrylate

Epoxy

Hot Melt

Bondo

Cyanoacrylate: $5.00/oz. • Cyanoacrylate is the generic name for cyanoacrylate based fast-acting

adhesives such as methyl 2-cyanoacrylate, ethyl-2-cyanoacrylate (commonly sold under trade names like SuperGlue and Krazy Glue). It is a tenacious adhesive, particularly when used to bond non-porous materials or those that contain minute traces of water.

• Effective for bonding metal and hard-to-glue materials.• Standard cyanoacrylate adhesive does not bond well to smooth glass.• Not easily primed and painted.

Epoxies: $1.25/oz.• Good general purpose project adhesive.• Effective for dissimilar materials.• Available in varying formulas for specific materials and set times.• Sold as two-part liquids or in mixable gum.

Hot Melt: $.53/oz.• Hot melt adhesive (HMA), also known as thermoplastic adhesive or hot

glue, is a form of thermoplastic adhesive that is commonly supplied in solid cylindrical sticks of various diameters, designed to be melted in an electric hot glue gun.

• The glue is tacky when hot, and hardens in anywhere from a few seconds to one minute.

• Hot melt adhesives have long shelf life.• Good for cardboard and foamcore.• Good project glue with fast set-time.• Heat will melt some materials.• Best to let harden for clean-up.

Contact Cement: $.50 - 1.00/oz.• Contact cement is a powerful adhesive made of neoprene and synthetic

rubber. • It is highly resistant to moisture, bonds almost instantly, and requires no

clamping of the bonded materials. • It can be susceptible to deterioration, and is less effective when a

powerful bond is required for a long time. • This adhesive is best used with plastic, rubber, glass, leather, metal and

veneer.• Contact cement is available in both a flammable (odor offensive) and

non-flammable form (water based).

Bondo: $.60/oz. (Glazing and Spot Putty)

• Bondo is a polyester resin that when mixed with a hardener (an organic peroxide), or catalyst, turns into a putty which then sets and hardens.

• Not a glue, but useful in filling large imperfections in auto body work or really gross models.

• The user can apply the mixed Bondo, sand it to the proper shape, and prime and paint it like the material around it.

• Really offensive odor that lasts through mixing and shaping. USE OUTDOORS ONLY.

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AbrasivesUsed mostly to smooth, though it can also be used to impart texture or opacity to clear or glossy materials. Always move sandpaper with the grain on wood, or in small circular motions on non-grain materials. Start with coarse grits (lower numbers) and work to finer grits (higher numbers). Backing material, paper or cloth, is rated by letter for thickness and stiffness (durability and flexibility). Preparation is the key to quality finished surface. Finishing highlights residual imperfections. Sanding blocks (cork) or pads are highly recommended for efficient sanding.

Grits: Identifies coarseness (not a southern breakfast specialty!)

36 - 60 Coarse - Aggressive changing of shape or form80 - 100 Medium Coarse - Still can modify shape120 - 150 Medium - Removal of scratches180 - 220 Fine - Fine scratch removal and polish240 and up Very Fine - Polish and clarification

Types:

Garnet : Natural crushed mineral used mostly on wood.

Aluminum Oxide : Cuts faster and lasts longer than garnet. Used on wood or metal. Available in paper, waterproof, and cloth backed.

Silicon Carbide : “Wet or Dry” paper for polishing hardwood, soft metals, plastic, and finishes. Can be used to smooth glass edges. Fast cutting and fast wearing. Can be used with water or oil between finish coats or for final smoothing.

Steel Wool : Used for very fine sanding and polishing. Available from coarse to very fine (5 - 0000). Not for surfaces where fragments could imbed and/or rust. Can be used to abrade complicated shapes, metal castings, mouldings and plaster.

Scotch Brite : Non-woven abrasive. Similar to steel wool with varying coarseness indicated by color. Can be used to remove oxidation from metal without imparting deep scratches.

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Sanders

Belt Sander

Palm Sander

Random Orbit Sander

The use of electric sanders is the most common and fastest method for smoothing surfaces. While sanders can be terrific time savers, they are not precise and can often contribute to bad fitting parts, misaligned surfaces, or loss of material all together i.e. sanding through the surface veneer of plywood. Sanders are also very annoying as they produce large quantities of very fine dust and an incessant drone. Clean dust collection bags and canisters often. When done with use, clean by emptying the dust collection device and blowing off the tool outdoors. Place back on tool room shelf and do not wrap the power cord tightly around the machine.

Belt Sander:• Removes stock quickly, but is not always accurate. Difficult to control,

especially on smaller work.• Ask for assistance to select appropriate belt size and grit. Some belts are

available in the lab.• Make sure sander is on its side and turned off before plugging in to outlet.• Carefully observe belt tracking during use and adjust as needed. Do not

allow belt to wander off or into sander housing.• Allow sander to lightly remove stock. Do not force tool.

Palm Sander:• Sander has a quick orbiting action causing machine pad to vibrate.• Palm, or vibrating sanders, utilize 1/4 sheets of 8 1/2 x 11” standard

sandpaper.• Up to four layers can be applied at one time and then torn away as

needed. Ask attendant for assistance.• Sanders are good for light and finish sanding and are easy to control.• Can leave insidious marks behind on the surface. Check surfaces very

carefully before moving on.

Random Orbit Sander (R.O.S.):• Pad rotates and orbits making for a more aggressive material removal

than the palm sander.• Easy to replace sanding discs have five holes and are backed with pressure

sensitive adhesive.• Line up the holes in the disc with the holes in the pad to insure proper

dust collection.• Follow the same guidelines for use as with the palm sander.

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• Useful for cutting internal and external curves in a variety of materials, mostly 1/4” -1” thick.

• Blade and speed selection are specific to material being sawn. Ask attendant for assistance selecting and changing blades.

• Typical blade selection criteria:• Fine teeth for thin hard material - plastics and metal• Medium teeth for MDF, composition board, and plywood• Coarse teeth for solid wood and thicker products• Check blade size, as it reciprocates. Make sure it is long enough to cut

through your given thickness.• For best results, work should be supported near the cut.• BEWARE! DO NOT CUT INTO TABLES.

Sabre Saw/Handheld Jig Saw

Scroll Saw/Stationary Jig Saw• Used to cut small parts, curved parts, and interior holes. Capable of

extraordinary intricacy.• Blade Installation:• Use “skate key” to lock proper blade into lower blade clamp utilizing

holder located on right front corner of table.• Insert lower block into spring holder below the table and pass the blade

up through the insert

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METALS LABShearsBrakesRollersGrinders/Sanders/BuffersPressesSawsWeldersMetal Lathe Plasma CutterVises

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DIGITAL FABRICATION LABCNC Router/Plasma Cutter3D-PrintersVacu-FormingWall-Mounted Sheet Cutter

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LASER LAB