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FTS Income Original System

(Updated 2016/17)

Disclaimer and Terms of Use Agreement.

The author and publisher of this manual and the accompanying materials have used their best

efforts in preparing this manual. The author and publisher make no representation or warranties

with respect to the accuracy, applicability, fitness or completeness of this manual.

The information in this manual is strictly for educational purposes. Therefore, if you wish to apply

the ideas contained in this manual, you are taking full responsibility for your actions. EVERY EFFORT

HAS BEEN MADE TO ACCURATELY REPRESENT THIS PRODUCT AND ITS POTENTIAL. Even

though this industry is one of the few where one can write their own cheque in terms of earnings,

there is no guarantee that you will earn money using the techniques and ideas in this material.

Earning potential is entirely dependent on the person using this manual, ideas and techniques.

This is not purported as a “get rich quick” scheme. Your level of success depends on the time you devote to the techniques suggested. I cannot guarantee your success or income level, nor will I be

responsible for any of your actions.

Many factors will be important in determining your actual results and no guarantees are made

that you will achieve results similar to ours or anybody else’s. In fact, no guarantees are made that you will achieve any results from the ideas and techniques in this material.

The author and publisher disclaim any warranties (express or implied), merchantability, or

fitness for any particular purpose. The author and publisher shall in no event be held liable to

any party for any direct, indirect, punitive, incidental or other consequential damages arising

directly or indirectly from any use of this material which is provided “as is” without warranties.

This manual is © copyrighted by Ian Erskine and FTS Income. No part of this manual may be copied

or changed in any format, sold, or used in any other way than what is outlined in this manual

under any circumstances.

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Introduction

Welcome to the updated manual for the original FTS system which came online in January 2007 and

still stands strong today.

Firstly, thank you for buying this manual and I hope it brings you the same lifestyle I have developed

from initially using the very same strategy in this book and nothing else for 3 years. Times and

markets have changed since then and I no longer operate the method as I have moved away from

trading to suit my own lifestyle. That does not however mean it is any less profitable. If you set your

bank and set a plan correctly, you will make money and you can then move into other areas of

betting with your profits.

Please read the whole manual thoroughly, maybe twice, and then apply the principles, firstly by

paper trading and then in full.

About Me

Most people reading this will be familiar with me, the FTS website and my methods. If you are not,

then I will give a brief history.

I am a gambler – yes that is me. I have always searched for ways to make money the easy way. As a

result, I lost over £20,000 on horses following one system after another. I then started poker and

lost more fortunes (although I am quite good now).

All my life I chased from one form of gambling to another and guess what – I failed. You only need to

look around to see who benefits from gamblers. I go to Vegas regularly, the hotels there cost billions

to build and maintain and someone has to pay for it - the gamblers who throw their hard earned

cash into machines, roulette tables and craps table. In England we have a saying “do you ever see a poor bookmaker?” The answer of course is no.

Gambling is a massive industry and the bookmakers feed off people’s desire to earn a fast buck. However, there are a few who make a living from gambling and I hope that like me you will now

become one.

Winning at gambling takes discipline, and greed is your greatest enemy. I have won £10 but I want to

win £20 or £30; eventually this mentality sends you broke.

These days I no longer gamble (except for my little trips away) but now I don’t gamble to make a living, I shrewdly trade. In the early nineties a massive advantage was given to gamblers. Via the

internet we were given the opportunity to become a bookmaker, yes that’s right, we could now take

other people’s bets and make money. Rather than go to Ladbrokes to place my £10 at 3/1 on a

horse, I could now do it online with another human being who I did not know, and the host site

would see the winner was paid his money, less a small commission.

This has been a pivotal move in the gambling industry and I am one of many who have seized the

opportunity. I, in effect, now act as bookmaker and make a tidy living. The big difference is I, unlike

Ladbrokes, do not have to offer bets on everything, and I can pick my moments carefully, take my

money and run with no overheads and best of all no tax.

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That was the opening from the very original manual, which was published in print form and

mailed out using traditional mail to people way back in January 2007. I am a gambler/trader and

have not failed to make a six-figure profit since 2006/2007. My highest income in that time is

£278,547 in one year, and my lowest is £145,832 (as I had some time off ill).

It was never my intention to share what I do; I was talked into producing a manual to sell in 2007. A

web version then followed on a crap website with an e-book for download. Since then my gambling

has continued. I have adapted and changed certain things but the essence of what I do remains

pretty much the same. The principles of how I started will always stand, but you will need a plan and

discipline before you even attempt to involve money.

Also in the time after having the initial website I set about interacting with other gamblers via the

FTS website. It has had 5 or 6 uplifts, including this coming season, and I still strive to get it where I

want it. I have encountered many things. The Internet is rife with people looking to rip gamblers off,

as they are easy target and I try and sway people away from this. That said though, the internet is

also rife with bad or desperate gamblers who have no work ethic, no discipline, look to blame others

and look to get rich quick. They are by far the majority, and easy fodder for the system sellers.

If this sounds like you, then FTS in any form is not for you and you may as well delete the website

and any e-books from your hard drive or memory.

It’s been almost 10 years but the website is still there, it is getting better all the time, I am still here

and most of all I, and a few others, are still making decent money which all started with the methods

in this manual, in fact the exact methods that I used in 2006/2007. My current net exchange

winnings since 2006 stand at over £2,000,000 or over £200,000 a year tax-free. Not Bad!

What is FTS?

FTS stands for Football Trading System. It is perhaps not so apt now as the website has changed and

I utilise a few different sports and systems but this was picked for the website at the time and it has

stayed.

FTS is how I refer to the main and original system and it is a “Lay The Draw” System. When I first

produced the manual I was unaware that this method existed and had been sold under numerous

guises. Where I feel I have been different is that I actually publish the matches that qualify every day

for trading to FTS subscribers and members of the FTS Enhanced and Ultimate memberships.

People will tell you “Lay The Draw” does not work and that’s fine if they believe that, but to me that

is just a kop out, and LTD still remains one of the surest ways to profit on the exchanges. Any form of

gambling requires the right mental approach and long term discipline, otherwise none of it works.

I use LTD pretty much every week of the football season and I have not had a proper job for over 10

years now so I must do something right, or perhaps I am just lucky.

If it is not for you, please stop reading now and go off and use the scattergun approach to gambling

where you hunt the Holy Grail by trying something new every week, but I fear you will be

disappointed.

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Betfair

In the original manual I went through how to open a Betfair account and how Betfair works. I would

like to think that now this is not necessary as Betfair drives the gambling industry and any serious

gambler would have a Betfair account in place.

If you do not know what Betfair is, then it is essential you learn. Betfair is a betting exchange, which

provides a means for the public to bet against each other. There are other exchanges, such as

Betdaq and Matchbook, but Betfair still rules the roost.

If you think a selection will win you would back it, but if you think it would lose you would lay it,

effectively becoming the bookmaker. You can ask for prices or offer prices and Betfair takes a

commission off the winner. It is a simple process. The exchanges also allow us to bet whilst an event

is actually taking part, known as betting in-play. This allows you to place multiple bets on an event,

both backs and lays, which is known as trading, and that is how I made my money for the most part.

For the first 3 years straight I did nothing else. I introduce methods with profit won effectively off

other people, not because I get a sensational email or have a fear of missing out.

I cannot teach you how to use Betfair better than they can themselves and their learning section is

comprehensive from the basics upwards.

https://betting.betfair.com/education/

The Method

Once you are familiar with Betfair, the method is fairly simple. We are going to visit the in-play

football coupon, and in certain matches we will lay the draw outcome.

There are only 3 outcomes - Home Win, Away Win or Draw - and FTS Original focuses solely on the

draw.

I want to lay the draw in matches that meet my criteria and then trade them in-play after goals have

been scored, in order to obtain profit, or to control my losses if no goals are scored.

I think those last few words will decide the winners from the losers using LTD. I always control my

losses so my losses are minimal, and my wins outweigh them considerably over a season.

Poor gamblers look to win every game or win as much as possible. It is that greed that sees poor

decisions and losses mounting up.

I have heard repeatedly that LTD does not work. Some say because so many people do it it affects

the price and the value is in backing the draw. In that case surely all those services that promote this

must agree that high volume backing the draw would make the lay price attractive. The FTS Odds

Sheets show clearly that the most profitable outcome in football is laying the draw.

Low liquidity markets will see the price affected if high volume hits it, but everything I do is based on

a price calculation and whilst I always want to nick the best price I can, I only do so as long as the bet

falls in my parameters and it is value.

In my opinion, there are numerous forms of gambling that work but plenty of gamblers who mess it

up.

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If I sent selections for two games in a weekend and both lost, people would give up, and look to

move elsewhere and find something new. Over a football season it is difficult to fail if you are clear

in what you do with LTD. That is my belief and myself and others, who joined me years ago, are living

proof.

Laying The Draw

This is an In-Play coupon on Betfair.

The column we are interested in is the middle pink column which signifies the DRAW LAY price. By

clicking any of those middle pink boxes we can lay the draw at the price quoted. Again, I do not want

to go into detail about how Betfair works, but for clarity, it is important to stress your maximum risk

when laying the draw.

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If I was going to lay the draw in a particular game i.e. I felt the game would have a result, I would

click the pink lay square for that match. Assume the odds in the box were 4.0. This now means that I

am offering another Betfair user odds of 3.00 to 1 that the match will not be a draw.

If I selected a £10 stake and the match was a draw I would have to pay that user 10 x 3.00 = 30.00.

If however one of the teams wins the game I receive his £10 stake less the commission Betfair

deducts, which is a maximum of 5%.

Criteria 2007 – 2012

Unlike most gamblers I know I have to adapt to changes in the betting industry to enable me to

make a profit. There are no miracle loopholes as some claim and any edge that is found is soon

closed down by bookmakers looking to protect their profits, or by overuse of punters who destroy

value.

The main element of this update is to explain how I have changed what I do since 2007, what market

conditions are different, and cover scenarios that we meet during a trading day.

Let me talk first about the Betfair in-play coupon. On Saturday August 16th 2008 there were 42

games available on Betfair that would go in-play from 10:30 am to 21:00 pm. These days Betfair

have over 600 games set to go in-play on any given Saturday.

Many users, I am sure, see the offer of more games from more countries as fantastic. We now have

youth football, women’s football, league football from all 5 continents, reserve football, all available

in-play and it is available pretty much around the clock.

Choice is good!

For me this choice and increase in number of available in-play games has been nothing but a

negative.

There will always only ever be a certain number of users on Betfair and a certain amount of money

in the markets. My preference is for that money to be concentrated on fewer games in the bigger

leagues, generating liquidity and accurate prices.

The addition of these minor leagues has seen that money become more widespread for numerous

reasons. People who are compulsive bettors will start betting at 8.00 am and bet every game they

can until they have lost and then stop, so do not play in the bigger markets later in the day. People

will specialize in smaller less known leagues where they think they may have an edge as other

bettors in that league are not so well informed etc.

All this has led to a lot of in-play games that to me are meaningless and now lack liquidity, so are no

good for trading.

Liquidity

Liquidity is the money in the market. This is the money that has been traded and is available to trade

during the game. It may be that £200,000 is matched before the game but a further £800,000 comes

into the game in play, making a matched figure of £1,000,000 in all. Please note that at the top of

Betfair markets they post the matched figure.

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For example:

Matched: GBP £2,512

This tells me this match has had £2,512 matched; the actual money down in the game is £1,256

(£2,512/2). If you place a bet on Betfair, let’s say for example you back an outcome for £20, Betfair

record it as £20 on the lay side and £20 on the back side matched, so they record it as £40 matched.

I have no idea why; I have never received an explanation that makes sense and all I believe it is for is

to make their markets look good.

The money in the market is very important in all that I do.

It creates an accurate market; the higher the weight of money the more likely the price margins will

be tight and correct.

Most importantly though it offers a chance to get bets matched. If a market has no liquidity, it

means it has less users and less chance of your bet getting matched, or if it does it will be at an awful

price.

When trading, time can be of the essence and we want to know our bet will get matched.

Since 2007 liquidity has dropped on Betfair but there are still plenty of games that I can play in, so

the liquidity figure just acts as a filter. Generally, I like to see a figure of over £30,000 matched

before kick-off. I do not have any hard and fast rule, as I know in the big leagues it is not an issue. In

the minor leagues it may be less than £30,000 pre kick-off, for example, a German Bundesliga 2

match which will see a different market and more money come into it compared to less than

£30,000 in a Belarus Division 1 game.

Liquidity is an issue and my advice is if choosing your own games, watch the markets and ensure that

you are involved in games where money will be available. You will not go wrong sticking to the

advised games or picking games in the main European Leagues.

Pre Match Odds

When I started full time I did a lot of work on pre match odds. The people who taught me about

gambling, taught me that price is everything. We can all take a view on a football match.

For example:

Man Utd v Accrington Stanley.

The majority view would be that Man Utd would win, I would share that view. Many would go and

bet Man Utd irrespective of the price.

I would bet Man Utd only if I could bet them at a price I believed in my opinion to be value.

There is a stark difference between the two.

In 2007 I set my Lay The Draw maximum price figure at 4.7 based on my research. I have

subsequently, based on data collected, set my maximum price at 5.5 and that is the price I stick to

rigidly.

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Frankly I am not bothered what others do, some people take higher prices, some wait for a game to

go in-play and drop below 5.5, missing the first 10 minutes of a game. I lay the draw pre game at

maximum odds of 5.5.

It is unlikely I will change this going forward and this is a maximum number. Many of the games I get

involved with are still under the 4.7 mark.

I get emails such as “if I think it will not be a draw what difference does it make if it is 5.5 or 6.0?”

Simply, 5.5 is my maximum price to still have some value and movement in the market. I am not

looking for a defined outcome, I am looking for value trading opportunities.

I don’t want exposure to big liabilities greater than 4.5 times my stake (it is only a visible liability as I

will always trade a losing position).

Betfair has changed in its 15+ years online. The margins are not what they were but if you trade

properly, and with the necessary traits of discipline, you will definitely win.

So, my criteria for a qualifying game on the in-play coupon on any particular day will be:

£30,000 or more matched in the market. (It may be that I choose my match early in a morning and

the match has only £12,000 matched. Usually I am able to guesstimate that this will have more

money come in during the day and will be ok to trade).

I then only want games that are 5.5 or less to lay on the in-play coupon.

I do things slightly different as I price every game up myself and then see what games are qualifying

on the coupon and which are value to my tissue prices, rather than go through the coupon and then

make a game qualify just because it is under the price and has money in the market.

I am not purporting you do that and indeed my picks have been through that procedure. If you are

looking yourself then I would focus on those two initial qualifying criteria. If you are staking small

stakes, then you can obviously look for less liquidity.

Research

I see it as fairly obvious that if I bet every game I would, in the long run, show a small loss or a small

win, with Betfair commission it would be negligible. Any betting method depends on your choices

and I will always look to not have a bet rather than have a bet. I do not bet for the sake of it, I want

to know I have it in my favour.

I am not going to detail my exact method for picking a game but for those of you looking to branch

out on your own it is important that you form a method for picking games rather than stabbing in

the dark.

It takes time but, like everything, you will get out what you put in. Anyone thinking this is an easy

ride is mistaken and should re-think what he or she is aiming to do with their gambling.

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Areas of games I look at are:

I prefer strong home favourites – (I will get involved with away favourites but it is not my

preference)

Over Under Markets – is Over 1.5 / 2.5 goals favoured

Current Form

Home/Away Form

League Position & Performance – I tend to break this into fifths. For example, Man City

playing Hull. Man City are in the Top 4 so a Class 1 team for my ratings, Hull are a newly

promoted team so a Class 5 team for my ratings. As well as looking at the head to head I

would look at how Man City performed against all my class 5 rated teams over the course of

a few years. Spurs, my own team for example, have been a Class 1/2 team for the last 3/4

years but perform better at home against Class 2 and 3 teams than they do Class 4 or 5

teams. I hope you get the idea.

Goal Timings of both teams – scored and conceded

Importance of game – have both teams got something to play for, relegation and promotion

battles, and dead rubbers at end of season

Team News & expected formation – will teams sit back and play for a 0-0

Combined Goals Per Game

First Half/Second Half Performance

Discipline records

Referee

The list is not exhaustive and you can add or remove factors as you see fit depending on

importance to you

There are many websites to use for research. Some I use are:

www.futbol24.com - I also use this to follow scores in-play, also has a great app for iPhone

www.soccerstats.com

Betfair’s own form section

www.bbc.co.uk

www.skysports.com

www.football-data.co.uk

I also use others but the above has most of what you need.

So, having picked our game and placed our initial lay on the draw, we come to the conundrum that is

trading.

In – Play

The success or failure of LTD will depend not on match choice but more on your decisions in that

match. For me, again it comes down to the long-term picture over 1000’s of games. Unfortunately,

the general feedback is that people react on a daily basis or game to game making inconsistent

decisions.

I firmly believe some people who gamble should not be gambling, and that very few people take

responsibility for themselves.

After you have placed your original lay, let’s assume for £100 and the odds were 5.0, you can see on

the Betfair screen a green number under each team of £95 that is the amount you can win

(assuming 5% commission) on either of those teams winning.

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However, you will have a -£400 red number indicating your potential loss.

People get married to the red number. It is at risk, it is very rare that it is all at risk and if you do not

like it please do not bet in the first place.

Getting obsessed by the red number affects your decision-making. My focus is on what I can win, not

what I can lose. If I am trying not to lose rather than betting to win then I don’t have a chance.

Trading Plan

Before a bet is placed you need a trading plan. What are you going to do in the game when certain

things happen?

Without a plan you will make decisions off the cuff and be unsuccessful. It is vital you are consistent,

and writing out a plan and placing it by your computer is the only way you can do this.

You need to know what your move is if the game is 0-0 with 20 minutes to go

You need to know what your plan is if the game sees a red card particularly to the favoured

team

You need to know what your move is if the underdog is 0-1 up going into the second half

You have to do it! A trading plan is simple and will see you be successful.

A sample may be:

Tottenham v Watford

Initial lay of £100 at 5.2. This means the liability is £520, with a potential profit of £95.

Score 0-0 at 75 minutes, trade out of the bet.

Score 1-0 to Tottenham in 1st half, give them 15 minutes to score again.

Score 2-0 to Tottenham 2nd half wait until 70th minute then take profit.

Score 1-1 second half, stay in and risk full loss.

Score 3-0 Tottenham, lay them to cover liability or back draw for profit

Red Card for favourite – exit for small loss/win.

Red Card to underdog – stay in.

Watford goal 1st half stay in.

Watford goal after half time exit for small profit/loss.

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The above I stress again is just an example, but by having the decision making for scenarios already

pre-empted it will stop you making emotional decisions or dithering in the market whilst others are

getting out ahead of you. Betfair is predictable and you will find the same moves work irrespective

of the team names in games with the same starting odds brackets and similar goal times. So you

then develop a feel for your plan and carry it out automatically. Initially, look to trade not too many

games and set a plan for each.

Actual Game

Here is a walkthrough of an actual game.

Brighton were playing at home to Colchester and were strong favourites to win, and Over 2.5 was a

favourite, meaning the market fancied goals. Brighton have a strong home record over the last 12

months against weaker opposition. All these factors led to me picking the game.

The Lay Draw was priced at 4.8

My Trading Plan was as follows:

Lay The Draw at 4.8 for £100

Stop Loss of 0-0 requires exit of £245 backed at 1.96

If Brighton Score 1st half before 30 minutes allow 30 minutes to get a 2nd goal

If Brighton score Post 30 minutes allow to the 71st minute for a second goal and then take

profit – 71st minute would be the number where the market would hit under 2.0 if the match

was drawing

If a red card to Brighton before a goal then trade out for small loss, after goal take profit

If a red card to Colchester stay in and execute plan as normal

If Colchester take lead stay in and if 1-0 when market hits 71 minutes, trade out for small

profit/scratch

If either team goes 2 goals up aim for 100% if Colchester lay them at low odds to cover

liability

I now have no decision making or panicking to do - I know all my moves in advance.

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Here is how the game played out

Initial Lay £100 at 4.8

There were no goals in the 1st half and I was readying myself as the clock counted down towards 70

minutes to exit at 1.96 for my stop loss.

64 Minutes – we get a goal.

Brighton take the lead which is what I expected and wanted. I will now let the market settle and sit

on this score until 71 minutes.

Why 71 Minutes? This is key. My exit is 1.96. If I leave the bet to run and Colchester equalise in, for

example, the 78th minute, the market will settle on the draw price of around 1.5. This is much lower

than my stop loss rate and now I am in no man’s land. I either exit at 1.5 for a much bigger loss than I

wanted, or I have to let the bet run and hope for another goal. I don’t want that sort of angst. Simple. I give Brighton until 71 minutes to get a second. If they score again I go for 100%, if

Colchester equalise before that point I stay in on 1-1 and have the full 20 minutes’ left in the game

for another goal. This is a crucial step and the area where most fail with the “What shall I do?” mentality. As you trade games, and paper trade games, you will learn the market prices and where

your exit point/minute will fall.

Back to the game.

In the 70th minute just before I need to get out this happened.

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The Betfair market resets and I only have one choice now, and that is to go for the full 100% win,

which would be £97.80.

The final score was

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So the game played out exactly as I saw it, Brighton won, goals were scored and over 2.5 goals in the

end was comfortable and my plan was stress free enabling me to bank a 100% profit less

commission.

This is not fluke, it is hard work and planning, but without a trading plan you would be second

guessing yourself continually and that leads to mistakes.

Scenarios

It is funny when I read emails for LTD, and over the last 10 years I have read thousands. I would

estimate 99.9% of them focus on something negative, which falls in line with the number of people

who actually win at gambling – 0.1%.

I do not sit anxiously waiting for the beep on futbol24 to tell me a goal has been scored. To me

that is the sure way to the madhouse. We do though encounter different scenarios, so let’s run

through a few and the options available.

0-0

Ultimately I do not care if a match finishes in a draw. I am looking for goals so that I can trade out.

0-0 in a match of course does not give us goals, so we need a strategy to deal with it.

I was resilient for the best part of 6 years at getting out of the market when the draw price was 2.0.

That figure gave me usually between 67 and 75 minutes of the match to see a goal go in.

Markets have now changed and we see markets hitting 2.0 as early as 60 minutes. I always maintain

that many people are smarter than me and I was persuaded by some good argument to look at this

scenario. In mid-2012, I changed my approach to allow more time for goals to be scored. I now exit

matches between 1.7 and 2.2 depending on the game and my entry price. This reverts to giving me

70 minutes on average for the game, which outweighs the money saved by exiting every game at

2.0. What you need to do is work out what your personal maximum loss that you would accept is on

a 0-0 game and adjust your exit price depending on your entry price. I advise you aim for a maximum

1.5-point loss on a 0-0 game.

So an example may be, enter at 5.4 trade and out at 2.2, but in another game enter at 4.7 trade out

at 1.92.

Lay £100 at 5.4 Liability = £440 liability

Score is 0-0 in the game and the draw price hits 2.2. Back £245 at 2.2

Loss on Game -£145

Whereas entry at 4.7

Lay £100 at 4.7 = liability £370

Score is 0-0 in the game and the draw price hits 1.92 Back £245 at 2.2

Loss on Game -£145

The same loss of just under 1.5 points but different entry and exit points.

I keep a lot of data of 0-0 matches as people throw stupid quotes out at me as to why LTD cannot

work as 0-0 happens too often.

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Here are the 0-0 percentages of 6 top European Leagues:

English Premiership: 8 %

France Ligue 1: 9%

Germany Bundesliga: 8%

Spain La Liga: 7 %

Italy Seria A: 8%

Holland Eredivisie: 4%

The number has actually come down as an average, worldwide from 2007 around 9% to 7.76%. This

would reflect that football, particularly at the top level, teams have become more attacking, which I

believe they have.

If we took just the English Premier League for which there are 380 games played across a season,

only about 30 games finished 0-0. That is why I know this works. I then research and pick my games

so the reality that my selections will include all those 30 0-0 results in that league are probably

greater than my odds of winning the Euro Millions. It is not going to happen, my 0-0 ratio since I

started is less than 2%. It is prudent practice to get out of a 0-0 as advised above.

Backing 0-0

We already have the fact that roughly 8% of all games finish 0-0 and in the games I pick it is far less. I

do not understand backing 0-0 as a saver. It is again a comfort blanket with no financial back up. Yes,

it may feel great to save a bet when a 0-0 comes along but over time all it does is eat into your

profit.

I know, and I firmly believe, that few people have any idea about trading and the long-term effects it

has. People feel over the moon because they trade out of a horse at 1.5 without any idea of what

happens if you do that every time. I have tried to explain it, but I have now given up trying, as it is a

waste of my air. Everything should have a sound financial reason and backing 0-0 does not. The

same goes for randomly backing and trading out of horses. Fact.

All you do with saver bets on one game is feel good for that game, if you don’t like losing do not bet, pointless trades will only hurt your profits long term.

Underdog Scores

“Oh no, the underdog has scored, the draw price is lower than when we started, what shall I do?”

I receive at least one of these panic attack emails a week.

I have a simple mentality here, we are winning. If the match is not a draw, then we are winning the

bet. If I am going to sit worrying about an equaliser I may as well worry about if I am going to get run

down by a bus every time I cross a road. People use too much energy panicking.

Of course the favourite may equalise, they may go ahead and get 4. Or the underdog may score

again.

You simply need a plan for this before it happens. If the underdog scores, I generally will stay in until

the danger time around 70 minutes. I will then trade out by backing the draw or laying the underdog

in the lead.

If it goes 1-1 before that happens then I adjust my plan to that scenario.

www.ftsincome.co.uk

Score Draw – In or Out

Staying in when there are score draws from 70 minutes onwards is more profitable long term than

trading out in the games I pick and trade. There it is, there you have it, and I don’t need to say it

again.

Of course, stay in at 1-1 and no goal comes and everyone wants to kill me because they are thinking

of that scenario, that afternoon, that red screen, that single loss and off we go to give up again.

I nearly always stay in; I have to have a good reason not to. I state in my match write ups that the

aggressive play is to stay in. If you do wish to, that is fine. You must trade to suit your bank, your

mentality and your emotions. If you cannot handle it then trade out and come back another day.

1-1 results account for approximately 11% of all games.

Of course a score draw staying a score draw means a loss all round but it happens rarely and over a

year you will win staying in as opposed to getting out. However, if you lose one then decide to trade

out the next time because you are scared of losing again, you have no chance long term.

Trade out of them all or stay in them all. Picking and choosing will not work. If you have a relatively

small bank, trading out of them all is not a problem, do it until your bank builds up to a stage where

you commit to stay in them all.

I have never really veered from the above, entry and exit odds have changed over the years but the

mechanics are the same. I do not sit beating myself up at a screen all day long. I have audible alerts

on or text alerts and try and act as calmly as possible.

I never watch games I am trading, my opinions are based on my odds and research and my plan is

formed before kick-off and then I simply apply the trading plan. Watching games means people get

too involved, think they know what will happen next and bet accordingly. Football for the most part

can be unpredictable and I prefer to play the numbers. Some are happy watching and so be it.

Final words

This is the exact system that I used to get started and many FTS members have followed suit. It is a

system that has proven to work over time. In fact, if anyone had subscribed to the very first selection

and started with just £1 stakes and traded to exact criteria supplied with a sensible staking plan,

they would have won over 7 figures by now.

So, make a decision and set yourself a plan for the next 3 – 5 years and you will be sure to succeed.

Good luck

Ian & FTS Team