Views and thoughts of a casual traveller

Plane circled Baltimore before landing. Lovely looking area to the south-east, full of wooded creeks with houses with their own jetties and boats. Very nice. Realised airport was further out of city than I'd thought, so decided taxi would be too expensive! Plane arrived about 15mins early. Fair distance to luggage claim, but not as bad as Phoenix! Decided to take the shuttle minibus to digs. Cheaper than taxi by about half. Had about a 20min wait for my number to be called. A local couple with me - said the area I was going to (Fells Point) was lively - lots of bars! How right they were! As drove down the street I realised I'd chosen well again - house virtually the last one before the waterfront and boats! Great! Even closer than I'd thought! Digs next to oldest house in Fells Point.Had quick chat with landlady. Said she had another couple staying - from England. Some funny place like Cornwall! Might meet them over breakfast! Apparently she's called Ann too! And the street is Ann Street - name of a friend in Bere Ferrers! Landlady’s mother lives in upstairs apartment - also called Ann! A common species!Decided to take advantage of daylight before clocks went back that night so set off to walk along the waterfront, in direction away from the city centre. So many boats! Area been redeveloped/restored. A mix. Was just like being in England! Somewhere like Swansea, Southampton or Cardiff Bay! (Ok, two of them are in Wales!) Lots of original little brick houses - am staying in one! (Area is original part of city. Once a big boat building centre.) Saw more boats. Could see gold parapets of Ukranian church nearby. Lots of joggers on the walkway, and people walking dogs. Walked for ages! Did I mention all the boats?!!! Marinas etc. Naval looking ships further off. Mallard ducks everywhere. Shipyards in distance. And the sun was shining!! Walked to Canton (named by Irish sea captain after his favourite port!). Really began to think plane had overshot and I was home in England!Walked back along main street. Loads of eating establishments, shops etc. Still felt like England, apart from American Can Factory building - although that was now shops and eating places etc. Earlier had seen galleries. (Did I ever say Santa Fe had masses of galleries? Loads! Lots modern art.) Further back around the Broadway area (other streets called things like Fleet Street and Thames Street!) some shops were still open. (Had started walk at 5pm - now 6 or gone.) Lady 'tramp' sitting with clothes and bottle in a doorway asked me for money - in an Irish accent! Mostly pubs around there - masses of them! Looked for somewhere to eat. Pubs looked a bit noisy. Ended up in the quietest looking one - the Irish one! Had leg of lamb steak with mash and veg and it was delicious! Realised that just over a year ago I was in Baltimore in Ireland! But felt somewhat of a culture shock after Sedona and Santa Fe, to say the least. Had gone in a couple of the open shops but didn't stay long - missed the South Western goods!Saw a ghost walking tour setting off but decided to retire to digs. Might be a ghost there!Back in digs went to my case to get travel kettle out - and discovered a notice in it to say it had been opened and inspected by airport authorities! Wasn’t I doing well! When they'd closed it up they'd managed to damage a big craft leaf thingy I got in Yosemite! But couldn't see anything else moved. Probably thought they'd never get it back again! And yet they let me through screening with a bottle if water!!Browsed tourist leaflets and listened to Baltimore's classical radio station - no TV in this room! Excellent selection of music. Think there's a telly downstairs in sitting area though. Loads of museums here covering every topic under the sun! Including dentistry, ahem! Still had tooth to sort! Markets near digs as well, and Little Italy (another one!).

DAY FORTY-FOUR – 3rd NOVEMBER Part Two

Some Baltimore boats. One rather sad one below!

Seafood Restaurant building made to look like a boat

Sunset over Baltimore

Met the couple from Cornwall over breakfast. Both have posh English accents, unlike me! He is in his 80s but very spry and she is younger. He sounds like a retired naval chap! But very nice - live at St German's, about 30 miles from me! Small world again! We're the only guests.After a pleasant breakfast, I set off walking along the waterfront towards the main city inner harbour (just after 9am). Paused at a small marina and was leaning on railings admiring a traditional type yacht for sale and was joined by an older gent doing the same. He loved boats with teak as well! He used to sail 35 years ago and dreams of doing it again. Shared mutual thoughts on the joys of sailing!Had to take detour inland for a while due to building work - Baltimore still undergoing regeneration. Passed buildings used as living classrooms to help under-privileged kids get up to scratch. They engage in pursuits like model boat building. Sounds good!Came upon the Civil War museum, which I wanted to go in, but notice said closed till further notice! Typical! Came to the flattish lighthouse that was once out on a rock but is now on a pier as part of the Maritime Museum - wasn't open yet! But there is no museum building: it consists of the lighthouse plus two ships and a submarine! One of the ships is the last survivor from Pearl Harbour - a Japanese tourist group was on it when I passed! USS Constellation also open to public - last all-sail warship built and the only one from the Civil War era still afloat.The Old Power station has been converted to impressive complex of shops, eating places and sport facilities. Power Station Live, just up the road, is a centre for evening entertainment and eating. The whole Inner Harbour is a vibrant area and was 'buzzing' as it was the weekend. Some little electric boats for hire and some pedallos - some like dragons. Later there were a lot of people out on the water in the sun. You would not have thought it was November!Passed the aquarium - a queue already although only just opening. They have dolphin displays - not sure about dolphins in captivity. Might go there tomorrow and try to overcome reservations (hello, back to Indians again!). On impulse (which everything was!) went to top of World Trade Centre for views. Tallest pentagonal building in USA. Great views of city. Hardly anyone up there!Generally explored the waterfront and eventually went in visitor centre. Discovered no harbour cruises were operating. Shame. Trolley tours not operating on Sundays. Ditto! Leaving the centre I noticed a Duck tour vehicle waiting nearby so decided to do that! We were all give yellow duck bill quackers for the journey! Very sad! Was dubious at first but soon got into the spirit of quacking at little kids as we passed! And some grown-ups to test the reaction! Think we were all certifiable! But the tour gave me an idea of the most historic buildings to visit in more detail. So many, particularly in the Mount Vernon area. Who on earth said there wasn't much to do here?! Won’t name and shame him, but his initials are DS! What with the historical places and trails and absolutely loads of museums: those who haven't been here for many years should revisit! Mind you, I like boats and harbours! But there's still a lot beside. Wonderful shopping areas!Tour took to the water for about half an hour of the hour and a quarter trip, but engine so noisy then I couldn't hear commentary! But nice views of city. Could hear easily on land. Famous hospitals here and the oldest food markets.After tour sat on a seat on the waterfront beside two musicians playing - a guitarist and flute/pan pipes player: such lovely music. It was also a wifi hotspot so answered a few emails! Then got a crab cake roll in the food/shopping complex behind me. Different! Baltimore is famous for crabs - not crabby people though! The tour guide had been a real laugh, the water taxi chap I saw as one came in near me was a scream, later there was someone just sat drumming on the front for pleasure, another sat singing ditto, and in one of the fast food stalls those behind the counter were advertising their wares by singing! Good fun! And there were street entertainers like a magician and juggler/unicycle rider. Really a lot going on, and various food establishments had live entertainment . Enjoyed the atmosphere.

DAY FORTY-FIVE – 4th NOVEMBER

Wandered into town and explored a bit, then took bus out to Fort McHenry. Was where the Star Spangled Banner was written after the bombardment of the fort by someone - nope, not going to say the British! (But it was!) Star shaped fort on a promontary. Walked around sea wall. Salt marsh regenerated in small area but didn't see any birds. Huge statue of Orpheus there to commemorate S S Banner. Took track in to fort area and explored. It was only after I'd done so I noticed sign saying there was a fee to pay at visitor centre to look around fort! Eventually found that at the end! But nothing preventing folk entering the area for free. Very trusting!Walked back to water's edge again by some fire boats, opposite the port area, with big container ships and what looked like naval supply vessels. On the other side there had been large vessels opposite in port/shipyard areas as well. Sat and watched yachts etc go by. Lots of squirrels around me! So nice.Walked back along road in search of industry museum. Found it, but a bit further than I thought so as it was near closing time didn't go in but caught bus back to Inner Harbour area. Sat listening to music again for a while then walked in direction of digs in search of somewhere to eat. Went in Italian restaurant at start of Little Italy. Very nice place. Della Notte. Discovered later it had lots of awards. But just the right amount of food; not too much like some places. And delicious! They also had a piano bar and you could listen as you dined. Even better! At first they had the background music in the dining area still on after the pianist started, but turned it off after I mentioned it! They hadn't realised it was still on as they've become immune to it and they hear it all day! Pianist cum vocalist excellent. Saw later he was quite young - in 20s.Momentarily lost bearings on leaving the round building and started walking in wrong direction! But soon realised and corrected tracks. Had about a mile walk in the dark but was ok. Not so many people around in the Fell's Point area tonight, I thought.Had hoped to find a church with a service time when I was in area, but didn't succeed. Did see a few United Methodist churches on tour and bus though, but too late!

DAY FORTY-FIVE – 4th NOVEMBER

Some Baltimore tugs

Water taxis, useful for getting around, and the promenade near my digs

A selection of the many boats

A selection of the many boats

A submarine as well

The lighthouse, originally on a rock

Pleasant walkways by the water

Views from the top of the Trade Centre

More boats…!

Views from the water

Some notable architecture

Inside and outside the fort, and Orpheus in the surrounding park

Sun and black sky

During the night heard endless train hooters! Am still convinced it would never be allowed in UK to sound at every crossing all through the night! Not as if the line is that near here, but it's a sound that carries! But will miss it when I return home - very evocative!Had nice chat with landlady and then the other Ann over breakfast. Explored a couple of streets in the area and Broadway. Not the most salubrious of streets! Baltimore does seem to have quite a few such areas and disreputable looking folk - or perhaps I've just found them! (Landlady later confirmed a big heroin problem in city and therefore high crime rate etc. ) Around parts of Mount Vernon later felt the same. Saw lots of street cleaners with jackets saying they'd been ordered to do it by the court. Good idea! City still in progress of regeneration. Landlady unhappy that so much was being spent on Inner Harbourarea but historic Fell's Point was being neglected.Walked to the harbour and went in the aquarium. Spent three and a half hours there! At first thought it wasn't as good as the Monterey Bay one, but it's just different. Really enjoyed it. Good frog section at present and a special Australian section. Met a bearded dragon in the 'meet the..' corner! Nicely laid out to make it easy to follow through and not get lost! Quite a lot of birds in certain sections - such as the huge glass pavilion - as well.Not having been sure about dolphins in captivity, these seemed totally happy and were playing even before the demo. One mother and two year old calf were having real fun! In the smaller pools at the back of the area were another mother and her two month calf - so we were instructed not to clap or cheer etc so as not to risk upsetting them. All the way through there were bits of film about protecting dolphins in the wild and not approaching them etc. All these were born in captivity. The rapport with their trainers - all graduates - made me green with envy! What an ideal job! Heaven on earth! In the wild they live about 18 years or so, but the oldest one here is 34. And they wouldn't breed if they weren't happy. Did wish they could have a bigger area though - but that went for some of the other fish as well. Nice big ray/small shark/turtle tank though. No touching like Monterey here. Lots of small turtles around - so many different kinds. Felt really sorry for the pig-nosed turtle! What a bum draw in life! Really enjoyed the visit and stayed watching the dolphins underwater for a long time after display finished. (Only half an hour long.) Had lunch in one of the cafes there. School kids everywhere! Needed earplugs! Amazed at the number of children there, but not too bad going round.Went to the waterfront by visitor centre and sat for a while in wifi hotspot! Then walked to Mount Vernon area and explored. Interesting buildings. Went in Roman Catholic cathedral - the Baltimore Basilica. The first cathedral in USA. Very light inside - painted white with decoration. Nice building. Organ original -1820s. Chap gave me guided tour, including the crypt or undercroft. Original architect's plans were ignored by builders - he had wanted a useable space underneath, but they only dug out enough for crawling space! It was later dug out properly and had a fully useable area. Small museum down there as well. Arches upstairs have upside down ones supporting them below! Lots of items in church from France as the cardinal who completed it was French.Had already passed the Episcopal church, but couldn't get in! Ditto all the others around, including the rather spectacular United Methodist building near the Washington Memorial. The Presbyterian Church had a spectacular spire - so ornate.Being Monday, all the museums en route were closed, and the free art galleries. Would have liked a peek at latter. Went in the Peabody free library - lovely building.Headed back to Inner Harbour. Crossing the final road to the promenade type area I was joined by someone who said 'We meet again!' Was the chap who had been admiring the boat for sale with me yesterday. What a coincidence! I stayed on a bench nearby to watch harbour and boats and he disappeared off. Seemed he worked for The Examiner in some capacity - but I didn't reveal MY newspaper connections! His parting words were we might meet again! Was going to say I didn't think so, but decided in the light of various happenings anything was possible! He had been trying to find a chap to go shares in a boat! Perhaps he thought I was a possibility! Ahem!

DAY FORTY-SIX – 5th NOVEMBER

Meandered along waterfront for a while, then went in the huge Barnes and Nobles bookstore in the converted power building. Joined the loads of people sat reading books and magazines for quite a while on seats. Enjoyable! Eventually walked on further and went in McCormick & Schmick'sseafood restaurant by the museum lighthouse (which is closed for maintenance, I discovered. Maritime Museum at Fell's Point also closed -allegedly because of lack of numbers.). Had corn chowder with shrimps and clams as starter (don't usually have one of those) and then had something I'd never had before - catfish! In cornmeal coating, with coleslaw and French fries - basically fish and chips! Was delicious. Meaty fish. Waiter wanted to know if we ate catfish in UK - not that I know of! But they grow to be monsters out here! Had been a huge one in aquarium -heck, could have been eating his cousin!Walked back to digs for last time, with backward looks at the city lights.Really have enjoyed listening to Baltimore classic radio the last three nights. Lots of Beethoven tonight, including full 7th Symphony. Some good Rossini as well. And something by the Academy of St Martin in the Fields of London! A nice reminder of the big city and happy concerts there!Had phoned car rental place this morning as per Internet instructions from them, to arrange to be picked up at Fredericksburg rail station. Chap said they only picked up within six miles and that was six! I asked what else there was in the town to warrant the 'pick up' comment online! No airport that I know of! He said call back at four when boss around. I did so from Mount Vernon and was told it was fine to pick me up! Hurrah! Apparently can't order taxi to get me to Baltimore Penn station till morning. Hope it's prompt, unlike others! Two hours on train, then I drive to Gloucester. Wonder what car will be - supposed to be Hyundai Accent....Forgot yesterday - saw church from bus that said something like 'American Rescue Workers Church' – not come across that before.Something called rain fell late evening and during night! What a shock to the system! Sounded quite heavy in short bursts! Hadn’t had that for a while!This has been a nice b&b - room a decent size after the last small one, with a bed with four posts but no canopy. Bedspread very pretty - red and white pattern that makes me think of New England.

DAY FORTY-SIX – 5th NOVEMBER

The dolphins at the aquarium. I had mixed feelings about this.

There were birds in the aquarium as well

Loved this baby police car!

More Baltimore architecture... some repeats from different angles

Fell’s Point, where I was staying in the house on the left in first photo

Heck, the days seem to be flying now!Although it had rained overnight and beginning of morning it soon cleared to blue sky by the time I left. That's the ideal weather! Had slightly early breakfast then a cab was summoned early in case of delays! But it arrived within five minutes. Got caught up in rush hour traffic - clock ticked over worryingly! But then pleasant cabbie took detour. Got to station an hour before train. Notice said that all bags must be labelled so picked up labels from desk - pretty picture ones! Notice said no carry-on luggage over 50lbs - suspected my case was heavier but didn't use scales to check! Was allowed on ok!Baltimore station quite small. Very pleasant. But there was an announcement that no trains were going north, then as my train pulled in (on time!) they announced none were leaving the station going south either! 'Operational difficulties'! But my train left soon after, only a bit late.As the train pulled into Washington station there was no announcement warning of it! I hoped there would be at Fredericksburg! Train left station about a quarter of an hour late then went a short distance and waited for a clear signal for about another ten.First stop was Alexandria, where the couple in the Santa Fe b&b lived that gave me their details. Big impressive building near station. Passenger beside me got out so I got the window seat. Hurrah!Some autumn colour left in trees everywhere - and lots of them along the way. Very pleasant, but did have a hankering for Arizona and New Mexico...! More interesting when coastline and boats appeared! But train seemed so slow!Next stop sounded like Quantico. No stations seemed to have names on them, or not that I‘d seen. Nightmare! There was a lady near me going to Fredericksburg (was the Carolinian train going to Charlotte in N Carolina) so thought I'd take my cue from her when to get off - but then she asked conductor if it was the next stop when we still had two stops to go, so that was no use! But the conductors walk up and down looking for the slips they put above everyone that indicates where you're getting off and turn them down if you're getting off next stop, so that was ok!A lovely lady sat beside me for last section of the journey and we chatted. Asked all about my trip etc. Only a few of us got out at Fredericksburg. Unmanned station. Wondered where the rental car chap would pick me up as station had two sides! But suddenly he appeared. Coincidentally he was also called DeWitt, like my friend in West Virginia! Was originally from Ethiopia although grew up here, but returns every year to visit Africa.Was given a Hyundai Sonata car - still a higher class than I'd ordered, but not as heavy as others. She is quite nippy so must watch speed limits!Took a detour out to Colonial Beach. Very nice area! Thought they had a welcoming party out for me, but it was only folk at the polling station - today was election day! They elect everyone, down to the Sheriff and the Clerk of the Court! Didn't originally realise from my GPS that it was a peninsula so drove around the waterfront in circles unintentionally until recognised scenery again and it clicked! My map from the book I'd copied off had been too small to see it properly! Or else I was being thick!Went a little way to where George Washington was born. Had already passed the house where Robert E Lee was born and nearer F'burg where another important figure in the war had been - forgotten his name! Had also driven through the big site of the major battle at Fredericksburg while there - big area that the main road goes through.As the train had been late I didn't have time to go in the houses at GW’s family’s place, but went in the visitor centre and drove to the beach on the Potomac River. Rather breezy and chilly! Saw where the Washington family were buried. Saw the buildings through the trees. Lovely area.

DAY FORTY-SEVEN – 6th NOVEMBER

Took the road to Highway 17 to Gloucester, VA. From the time I arrived at F'burg I had seen turkey vultures everywhere! Biggest group at one time about 12! Amazing! One flew right down in front of car. Stopped and watched it hunting for a while. Real close-up view! Also saw kestrel and loads of Canada geese.Not many houses along the way but when a building did appear it always seemed to be a church! But lovely green scenery. There was an occasional town, with wooden buildings and some brick ones. Really nice area.Was staying with relatives of the friends in West Virginia again! Their house was at the end of a long lane to the water's edge outside the main town. The town is small and really lovely. One main street with some historic buildings. But the friends’ houses are wonderful! Two right by the water and a shore in the distance with trees and a few scattered houses. No-one home when I arrived, so explored the waterfront and took advantage of the fading light and they soon arrived. Felt really at home. After I'd settled myself into the smaller house I went to join them in the main one. The front door was open - didn't notice the clear glass door in front of it in the darkening light and walked into it! Ouch! How to make a spectacular entrance!!Had lovely meal and chatted for ages. A possum climbed the steps and looked in the door overlooking the water as we sat there! They had a lone loon lives around their house in winter but hasn't arrived yet. Great blue herons should appear though. They had two cats, which was great!There was so much to see in the area! Can also take canoe out on the water if I like - kayak rather than Canadian this time. Weather forecast good if chilly for a couple of days, but cloudy with possible rain on Friday/Saturday.Woke during night and had quick look out at sky - another wonderful one! Not much light pollution here either. Couldn't see the comet that was supposed to be visible.

DAY FORTY-SEVEN – 6th NOVEMBER

A couple of places along the way to Gloucester

George Washington’s family’s graves

As I was awake, I watched the sunrise over the water and distant trees. Wonderful! A light frost on the grass - that's a novelty! Autumn must really be here!Did my washing about 6am! Wondered why the drier stopped early.... Had had small power cut. Strange.Left house at 8.30 on an exploratory drive into the next county - Mathews. Another area of scattered swellings and lots of churches. Went past the Tabernacle - interesting building. Wooden covered large round section in middle - was used for camp meetings originally. Has been preserved and is still used.Went to Gwynn's Island - nice area, but virtually all built on and nearly all the foreshore is privately owned, which gets really annoying as you try to get to the water. Small museum was closed - only open afternoons. Back off the island, I drove around and generally explored. Took any road that referred to birding or wildlife trail! Had close encounter with a beautiful hawk on a post at side of road!Went to Bethel beach - passing four chaps fishing happily off the bridge near it! Preserved beach area. Apparently once a recreation area. Now open sunrise to sunset (although I'm not sure how they'd stop people going on it!) and not allowed to do anything like bonfires there. Strange beach - a thin strip of sandy beach at the top, then a narrow ledge of rock that has a sharp drop down to more sand. Tide was high so couldn't see what happened then. But earthy bit on top of some of the rock with plants trying to grow. Strange. Remains of what looked like lots of posts or trees in the water just off the rocks. No explanation anywhere of area - poor!Had close encounter with two turkey vultures beside the road. The ugliest of birds close up! But look so magnificent in flight. Saw a group of about 14 today at one place. Poor mammals! Went to New Point beach - another wildlife area - and disturbed a great egret. Nothing else in view.A little further on at New Point Comfort area (why comfort?) saw a great blue heron. Wooden walkway out to viewing platform, but nothing else around apart from sea and marsh - and the lighthouse offshore.Stopped at the town of Mathews itself to explore the small main street area. Saw the old courthouse but couldn't go in as something taking place in it. Titchyold jail nearby. Had black been soup in busy nice local café that had Fairtrade goods. So salty!Drove around some more. Interesting names of places like Susan and Shadow!The graveyards were just open areas by the side of the road. One only had about six gravestones and had houses very close. Felt slightly strange to me!Returned to Gloucester and went in the museum. Interesting place. Used to be a hotel. Was given all the gen by chap there - not many visitors at this time of year and I was the only one there!Looked at the historic circle of buildings nearby, including old courthouse (was able to go in this one!) and another small jail. Went in the visitor centre there. Lots of leaflets and a small shop - got a cuddly loon complete with call! looked like the same birds that are sold in aid of RSPB in UK - only different species apart from common ones like mallard!Walked along main street a bit then drove - was inspired and found a free wifi area by the library!Returned to house about 3pm intending to go out in canoe - but water was a bit agitated and the wind had blown up so had to abandon idea. Kearfott was home, having the afternoon off, so took me out in his car exploring some more. Drove along some nearby lanes looking at the oldest houses - all so lovely! Then crossed various rivers as we headed north through various boating areas. Very nice. Stopped at Tides Inn for a walk around. Pleasure boat there - they call it yacht - called Miss Ann! Very appropriate!Sunset was starting, so headed home across a bridge with a magnificent view of it. The bridges were so long over the wide rivers - which virtually all had Indian names.

DAY FORTY-EIGHT – 7th NOVEMBER

Met up with Julie in local restaurant to eat. Was ladies' night in the town, with shops etc open and eating places, giving discounts. Then we went to school for a meeting. We drove through a less pleasant part of town I hadn't seen - America in all its glory of fast food places, cheap supermarkets, car dealers etc! Didn't know that part existed as I came in the other way straight into the historic main street areaThe meeting was a Republican party 'mass' meeting. About 150 folk there. The lady who had been nominated to run for Congress for the area had died so they had to use a little-used process to appoint someone else. No-one seemed quite sure how it worked! Everyone attending had to register and had hand stamped and was given a slip of red paper to vote (not sure why). I was given an A4 folded sheet with ‘guest observer' scribbled on it as well as my stamp! Sweet!Everyone stood and said the American Pledge of Allegiance at beginning, then someone read the Republican Creed. The chairman was nominated -all seemed pre-arranged! He appointed committees and they disappeared off into another hall. We chatted with folk around, including one live wire that runs a travel business that K and J go on holiday with.Eventually the people returned and the chair of each committee read out rules etc (initially not using the microphone so folk couldn't hear!) then it was announced that the 135 of those present who had registered as delegates for Saturday's meeting had been approved. K and J not going in view of having visitors! Then those standing or their nominees spoke for three minutes each and that was it! So I’m not sure what the red slips were for! No voting for candidates tonight - would happen on Saturday, we presumed! The only voting was by saying aye to the various procedures. All political speeches etc much like ours in the UK! It was an interesting and different experience.Retired early when got home so no looking for more possums!

DAY FORTY-EIGHT – 7th NOVEMBER

Sunrise from the house I was staying at. Beautiful!

The house at the water’s edge

Views from the house. My idea of heaven!

A turkey vulture. Not its fault it’s so ugly!

Bethel Beach – I think!

Inside the old Gloucester court house

Some of the old buildings in Gloucester

Views of Tides Inn (which it was!). The boat was Miss Ann

Sunset at Tides Inn

Had a stroll along water's edge after breakfast and two birds flew over my head into the tree just above me - two long-awaited cardinals! So pretty! Have been hoping to see them since arrived in the States along with humming birds - at least I'd got to see the latter! But was only saying to K last night I'd love to see some! They must have been listening! A good start to the day! Little did I know what was to follow that would be even better!Took a more leisurely start to the day: didn't leave till 9am! Drove to Yorktown - site of Cornwallis' surrender. Firstly went in the Watermen's Museum by the waterfront there. I was the only one there! Elderly chap there showed me around - yet another pleased to see someone! Then I looked round by myself. The actual building had been on the opposite side of the river in Gloucester but had been donated and floated across the river! Interesting history of fishing, clams, oysters etc. A 1927 12hp outboard engine there . My brother-in-law Chris would be jealous! Yorktown itself was deserted: like a ghost town - apart from a group of nursery kids going round. They were riding their little bikes with stabilisers around in circles at one stage - very sweet! One or two visitors eventually appeared. Went in a little museum in the basement of the old court house then looked round the gallery/shop on main floor. Some interesting things. Then walked around the little town. Some original buildings, but some restored and some reconstructions - albeit old ones. A nice little place. When I came out of the court house there was a horrendous noise - traced it to nearby trees absolutely black with birds. Think it was starlings. So noisy - but hundreds of them, in fact must have been about a thousand! They all flew off and didn't see them again.Lovely waterfront area there. Some nice little shops: one had tempting baseball-type caps with 'Women who behave rarely make history' on!! So nearly got one! They have even created a beach area there. Saw the cave where Cornwallis allegedly hid etc. The Grace Church was closed.Drove the short distance to the Victory Centre – it has a timeline of the events leading up to and during the war. Some interesting artefacts amid the mass of facts in the main building. Reconstruction of an encampment outside. Muskets and cannons fired! A costumed lady was talking to a group of children about medicine etc at that time, so listened in. Was excellent and fun! In the kitchen area, they dug out ovens - too dangerous to use camp fires. They also had a farm area. It was a tobacco growing area so there were only pigs, chickens, ducks, turkeys etc. Lady said all but one of their chickens this year had died, and all the ducks: they wouldn't have survived very well back then! In the shop they had little flags of the US, local states and the UK - was tempted to get one of thelatter to plant in appropriate spot!Drove to the Yorktown battlefield site. Another entrance fee as it was a different organisation, so I didn't go in museum bit as I thought it would be very similar. I just looked around battlefield area. Cannons, embankments and boards giving details of who was where. As usual with battlefields, not much else -just wide open space.Took the Colonial Parkway road to Jamestown. Lovely drive. Part among trees, part beside the rivers York and James with lots of creeks. Lots of pull-offs with boards giving information. Decided to go to the Historic Jamestown site first. Discovered the entry fee also covered the Yorktown Battlefield site! But ticket lasts a week so can revisit that tomorrow if time!Really interesting site. A monument and little church erected in 1907 to mark the 300th anniversary of landing, the latter on site of old original church whose foundations you can see and the gravestones.The fort by the water's edge (which has moved inland from where it was - the water that is!) is marked by wooden palisades . I was amazed how small it was! They were carrying out archaeological digs inside. Very interesting. Folk were giving talks on the historic details. Some burials there. A building over the governor's former house foundations houses a display of the artefacts found there. Also very interesting. Also a chair presented by HM the Queen earlier in the year!

DAY FORTY-NINE – 8th NOVEMBER

Walked around the area where houses used to be, marked out by low brick walls with information boards. A lovely area and excellent for wildlife and birds! Saw loads of squirrels, some darker ones, some chasing one another up and down trees. Also saw two deer up close - so tame! (Discovered later rabies was being found in foxes etc so people being advised to keep distance from wildlife! Gloucester having a 'drive-through' vaccination session for cats and dogs that weekend.) Then looked quickly round the exhibits in the visitor centre. Drove the Island Drive through the woods and saw more deer.Driving back along the road from there, between the river and another area of water a huge bird flew in front of me, skimmed across the water and landed in a tree on the opposite bank. I immediately put on brakes (having checked no-one was behind!) and got out binoculars (which I'd actually remembered to bring today!). Knew what I thought it was! And later confirmed it. Only one bird with a dark body, white head and tail - a bald eagle! Magnificent! It landed on its somewhat dodgy-looking nest and sat devouring its prey! Brilliant!After a while reluctantly went on to 1700s glasshouse area but decided there wasn’t enough time to go to it, so continued to Jamestown Settlement site – I had ticket from the Yorktown Victory place that covered it as well. (Why can't the two organisations get together that run these sites?!) Building was much bigger than I thought and historical displays were huge! Was closing in 50 minutes, so got a return ticket that allowed me to return tomorrow to complete my visit and just went to the Indian village site outside. Saw a pileated woodpecker there! And heard it! Strange looking 'tents'. Disturbed a mouse in one! Left the fort and ships for the next day. Phoned my hosts and left message as to when I'd be back - which they picked up after my return!Read the local newspapers that evening. They have lots of separate different sections with local, national, sport, etc. Local includes lots of obituaries, marriage licences with addresses (see who are living together!), court cases and such vital information as what's on the menu for school lunches! Must suggest the latter for our newspaper when home and hastily run away!Some additional information on the meeting last night: in the elections for sheriff one of the three candidates didn't get many votes - he was in prison for contempt of court at the time! Also discovered what the red slips of paper were about. Each area can send 170 delegates to Saturday's meeting, so if there had been more people than that wanting to go there would have had to be a vote on which 170 went! We would have been there all night! And it was the actual elected person who had died. Her husband was one of those standing.No choir practice this week at K's United Methodist church. Would have been nice to go to. And I am just missing out on concerts locally again. Hope I catch one somewhere!

DAY FORTY-NINE – 8th NOVEMBER

Views of Yorktown

Views of Yorktown

The battlefield site

Jamestown

Pocohontas

More Jamestown scenes

The archaeological dig at Jamestown

The ferry boat

The nearly tame dear

The Indian village site at Jamestown Settlement

Another sunset picture, from the drive home from Jamestown

Left about 8.15 for Jamestown, taking the picturesque Colonial Highway again. Arrived at the Settlement just as loads of coaches were disgorging hundreds of kids! But they dispersed over the site in small groups, so not too bad. Stood with an occasional group to hear bits about the history!Forgot to say yesterday that the Powhatan Indian tents or houses were curved and covered in reed matting. Also sometimes covered in wood shingles.Went down to the three replica ships at the dock - the new replica of the Godspeed was out sailing somewhere. The Discovery, Susan Constant and Elizabeth (was originally used as the Godspeed replica) were there. The first two accompanied the Godspeed on the first trip over in 1604. They were so small! Wouldn't have fancied the journey in them - the smallest one you couldn't even stand upright in below deck!The fort there is a life-size replica of the one from 1610-14, so a bit bigger than the 1604 one I'd seen mapped out the previous day. There were wattle and daub houses, a wooden church, storeroom etc. One chap (everyone in costume) was firing a musket - so loud originally I thought it was a cannon! Various other demos, dug out canoes etc around.The exhibition galleries were interesting. Traced the history of the settlement through, including good old Pocohontas, John Rolfe and John Smith -remembered them from history lessons!Drove to the remains of the 1608 glass house, where they had a go at making glass for a while, but the sand properties turned the glass green and no-one wanted it! Not much left of the building, but a reconstruction of it nearby with a female glass-blowing inside. She looked so bored! Another one started a commentary as I was leaving, but I was uninspired by the attitude there so didn't stay!Drove to where I'd seen the bald eagle the day before, but no sign today. Was so lucky yesterday! I think the nest it landed on was an old osprey one - there were several around on the parkway drive and had seen some previously in Colonial Beach, but the ospreys had left for the winter. Thye have returned to the area having been virtually extinct at one stage.Then went on to Williamsburg. Walked around the historic houses area for a while. Everyone in costume again. Like the Morwellham Quay setup near where I live, only on a much bigger scale! Various shops, etc, and folk giving accounts of the history. Needed a ticket to go in some of the houses (although not others) so went to Visitor Centre. Didn't bother with a ticket in the end as at was quite expensive and could enjoy the place without it. So had a nice corn, potato and bacon chowder in the restaurant there and managed to get in the same parking space back in the town again. So busy there, unlike Yorktown had been. Parking spaces like gold-dust. Free shuttle buses if you had a ticket. Wandered round some more - bought a Rollicking Recorders music book! Old tunes I can tootle on my recorders! Went in the church. Quite nice. Still a functioning church. There had been an organ recital the previous night – if only I’d known! The historic area is pedestrianised. There are some dirt track roads, some covered in oyster shell. Horse and carriage rides were available but I didn't indulge!I tried to find the road to Newport News, having decided there wasn't time to revisit Yorktown battlefield visitor centre. Got lost and drove round in circles until eventually found somewhere to stop and get GPS working!The main road to NN was slow going for a while, so much traffic. Took longer to get there than I'd thought. Big place. Saw a sign saying Mariners' Museum so followed it. On entering the building realised it was the one Kearfott was talking about going to the next day! As it was only 50 minutes before closing and they didn't do return tickets I just looked round the big shop area. Lovely things! Then walked by the lake there, and did part of the drive through the big park area, which went down to the river's edge and was lovely. At the side of another lake area got honked at and pursued by geese and ducks! Weather had brightened in the afternoon to blue skies and it was warmer.

DAY FIFTY – 9th NOVEMBER

I then returned the car to the airport as arranged as I wouldn’t need it again. A nice small terminal building. Was sad to leave the car - she'd been nice to drive. (Yep, she was a she - other two had been male!) Managed to avoid putting any fuel in the tank, but got a bit worried as gauge nearly reached the empty indicator! Julie picked me up and we drove to Yorktown.Got there a bit early, so checked there was a table available at the Duke of York at 6.30 ( no problem as hardly anyone there!) and then wandered along the seafront and went in the Stars and Stripes shop again! Really such wonderful tasteless stuff in there! Was glad Julie was as perturbed as me by some Christmas tree hanging decorations - tanks, American soldiers with guns... Just right for the season of peace and goodwill! Had been so perturbed by them when I first saw them! Would never be seen in UK. Not sure what it says about the Americans!Tried to go in lovely rug shop that had been closed when I was there yesterday - but it had closed again! But some lovely rugs visible. Not sure I'd fit one in my case though!Returned to the dinner place and waited for K and son Hunter. (Called Hunter after his mother's - K's first wife's - maiden name. She had Irish ancestors. Interesting coincidence: I have an Irish friend whose surname is Hunter!)Had she-crab soup (different from he crab?) followed by grouper fillet - for an ugly fish it tasted delicious - but I will start looking like a fish soon, am eating so much! Perhaps I'll swim better! But it was delicious. And good company! Returned to house to await arrival of Dewitt and Merle from WV. Watched BBC America news on TV for a bit (had adverts, unlike our BBC in the UK) – half wished we hadn't watched! Very depressing world events. Had managed quite nicely without knowing about them! But we had wondered if there was any news on the predicted storm on the east England coast. But none.D and M arrived. D was taller than I thought - had to get that in as his first comment to me was that I was shorter than he'd thought! We all chatted for a while before retiring. Apparently there have been reported sightings of a male African lion in West Virginia! Well, I wanted to see wildlife!Keep forgetting to mention little differences between here and the UK - like light switches. At home it's down for on, but here it's up for on! Confusing!

DAY FIFTY – 9th NOVEMBER

The three replica ships, the Discovery, Susan Constant and Elizabeth, at Jamestown

How many children can you get in a dug out canoe?!

Some of the Jamestown buildings in the fort

How to fire a musket… only it didn’t work! He had problems! Did fire eventually

Views of Williamsburg – these taken inside the lovely church

The outside of the church

More views of Williamsburg

A rather wonderful tree

Some of the buildings

A very enjoyable place all round

Very peaceful! Also at Williamsburg

But one goose wasn’t so friendly! Think it thought it was a duck and this was its harem!

Awoke to an unusual event - rain! All murky!Watched some breakfast TV. Sports link failed, call-ins failed… All good fun! Saw the USA's tallest man, a deputy sheriff, at 7'8" - or was it 7'4"?! Local news had account of shootings in Norfolk, not too far away. A big naval base. A cruise ship had run aground in Chesapeake Bay. Report of oil tanker that ran into a bridge in San Francisco some days ago. Oil leaked out. Horrendous. Shouldn't watch news!After breakfast we all set out in the Toyota people carrier to Newport News Mariners' Museum. Really good. Started with the new USS Monitor exhibition. Weird iron clad ship, the turret and some guns of which have been recovered. Full size replica there and the remains. Various films of recovery of them and the story of the battle in the civil war between it and the other different-looking iron clad Virginian. Monitor virtually a submarine, with most of it below water. Interesting. We separated and explored the museum by ourselves as we all had different main interests. I managed to see everything, although didn't spend as long in some places as I would have liked. Lots of wonderful model ships/boats. A world exploration section. Lovely small craft section. Some Chris Craft boats including a nice large one. And interesting other boats, some sailing. Included a funny little six foot boat called April Fool that sailed the Atlantic. Also a tiny little canoe type boat that was used to escape from Cuba - that was in a special exhibition of boats alongside photographs using them. Some vintage outboard engines, but no Seagulls! Another section on the Chesapeake Bay area and its maritime history. Really nice museum. Have most of Chris Craft records in their archive. Also a photographic exhibition of wildlife on a remote Hawaiian island and a film about it. Fascinating, but worrying that albatrosses there are being killed by plastic being dumped thousands of miles away. One chick was autopsied and was full of bits of plastic, even including a disposable lighter. So sad. But beautiful photos.We all met up in the shop and set off back to the house, picking up sandwiches en route. Rain had stopped by the time we had set off for the museum and it looked brighter by the time we left, so we were going to try to go out in their boat. We all went out in boat apart from D. They have a 34ft Gemini catamaran. Nice boat. Six bunk. Engine was reluctant to start, not having been used for six weeks! Went up the creek for a bit. As we boarded two bald eagles flew over the water. One landed on the water just behind the boat. Great! Then just after we set off we spotted 'their' loon, which had just returned for the winter! Their first sighting! K & J hadn’t thought it would return before I left! Guess it's officially winter then! Saw more loons during the voyage.We hoisted the largish jib and sailed back and out towards the open sea. Took the helm most of the trip. Very enjoyable, if a bit chilly! Sun had even come out. Turned back after getting to the point where you can see right out to the Atlantic Ocean. Had hot chocolate aboard with a dash of peppermint schnapps! Wonderful!We three females got evening meal ready while the two men plus H - who arrived soon after - watched American football! Baseball World series was over, but their football is equally confusing!Some great stories exchanged! Health insurance is a minefield in the US. K related a tale of deciding to grow Cantaloupe melons and damaging his knee and back trying to dig the ground – he had to have an MRI scan and only ended up with six melons! Reckoned they were the most expensive ever!

DAY FIFTY-ONE – 10th NOVEMBER

Exhibits at the Newport News Maritime Museum. This the turret of the ironclad ship

The hull of the ship

Boats!

Model boats as well

Some of the exhibits displayed with artwork. Very imaginative

Some vintage engines

Later, back at the house, we took to the water ourselves! J and I, suitable wrapped up!

Julie and Merle

Views from the boat

The three birds in the bottom pic are loons… honest!

And of course a sunset shot!

A fine sunny day. Saw two loons and a great blue heron plus four cardinals and various other birds on stroll along waterfront in the morning. Excellent way to start the day!After breakfast all of us except D went to Singleton United Methodist Church. Out in the middle of nowhere! Nice usual white wooden building with spire. Folk friendly and a nice atmosphere. The minister was away so a member of the congregation took the service. Was Veterans' Day - the same as our Remembrance Day. Hymns included Onward, Christian Soldiers and the Battle Hymn of the Republic and some words I didn't know to the tune of Finlandia. The organist played rather quickly! A young boy in white surplace came in first and lit the candles - he also extinguished them at end. He had to sit up front by choir for whole service - poor thing! The choir and organist wore green surplaces.Kearfott conducted the choir and sang with them. Noticed they have the usual problem - lots of ladies but only three men! The organist afterwards was furious with K and J for not teling her I was an organist - no way she would have played, she said: would have had me play! But her playing was fine. No variation in volume though, all quiet. I would have blasted them bit more where appropriate! Merle visited her sister's grave outside (K's first wife).Had a light lunch then Dewitt, Merle and I set off for West Virginia. D drove. We went to Monticello en route - the former home of Thomas Jefferson (author of Declaration of Independence, architect, etc). D and M were disappointed with the guided tour - groups left every five minutes so it was rushed and a lot of things they'd been told on their previous visit were left out. He wrote letters using a pantograph type device to duplicate them - was on his desk but no mention! The old privvy left much to be desired! They have tried to recreate the original garden and what he would have grown. Tours of the plantation weren’t running, but we had no time for that anyway! The house is on top of a hill with views of the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia (sings...! Didn't see the lonesome pine!). Was the start of mountain country - a change from the flat landscape of Virginia up till then.Stopped at Staunton to eat. Was dark by the time we left, so just had vague shadowy outlines of the mountains as we drove through them, through the Shenandoah Valley etc (cue for more song!). Was a shame not to see the countryside, but it couldn’t be helped.Lewisburg is about 2,500ft up. They live in the town in a house about same size as ours, just off the main street. Merle and I will do walking tour of town tomorrow - DeWitt decided! Spoke to daughter Kate in Vermont on Merle's mobile phone on way home - was lovely to talk to her again. Really must return one day to see them - and Kearfott and Julie etc! Funny how I really hit it off with D's relatives without ever having been in touch before!

DAY FIFTY-TWO – 11th NOVEMBER

Photos of J, K, D, M and I!

Monticello, the former home of Thomas Jefferson

A walking tour of the town went out the window as it was grey and overcast and there was some rain. Merle took me on driving tour of the county instead. Drove to places like Alderson, Fairlea and Ronceverte (latter rather run down and described by Merle as a dead animal on a road someone had forgotten to sweep up!). The Greenbrier river was very low. Very pretty river valley. As soon a you leave the main town of Lewisburg you are in farming country - cattle mainly; some horses. Towns are a strange mix of nice, biggish houses and little shacks/trailers! Saw some stone buildings, which made a change from wood or brick. Also a few log cabin type houses. Saw where D worked with problem teenagers. Returned to town and did a driving tour of that. Lots of historic houses and some impressive new ones. Went in Walmart to get something for lunch so experienced another of the big supermarkets. Great to browse! Then went to Carnegie Hall - the only other one in the USA apart from the more famous one! Saw the auditorium. Eventually found the visitor centre hidden away out of the town centre. Drove out of town again, this time to a covered bridge – my first road one. Back at the house I had a go at doing the Bere Link parish mag, but it’s not as easy on someone else's computer! Had had entries via email to insert. Merle invited a friend round for dinner. The two of them plus another friend then went for their brisk two and a half mile walk - I cried off! Walking briskly after meals not something my body copes with!When M returned we all watched a DVD called Dancing Cowboy about a family from the area - not the kind of impression young West Virginians like! But entertaining!Tried to plan what to do over coming days. Weather not particularly good for two days it seemed. Will explore town on foot alone tomorrow - unless the weather changes that as well!Listened to a 'God' radio station in bed. (Couldn't find a classical one!)Music quite nice if a little corny at times, but preacher very strange! Some good old choruses.

DAY FIFTY-THREE – 12th NOVEMBER

The covered bridge and area around it

My damaged tooth was playing up more, so D phoned a dentist and got me an appointment with a Mr Bee in nearby Maxwelton (cue for song again? Whose braes are bonny in Annie Laurie?!). All very nice there. I joked with receptionist I was afraid he was going to sting me! She said it was ok - they just buzzed around and kept busy! There was a big cross outside. Not sure if it was one of those that were erected around West Virginia by a chap years ago, but asked if it was where the last patient was buried as there was a pile of stones beside! There were Christian books in the waiting room as reading material, which was interesting. Apparently quite normal here. Would probably be considered politically incorrect to do so in UK.Dentist inspected tooth, X-rayed it, declared it needed either a crown or a root canal treatment that there wasn't time for while here, so put a temporary filling in. Back in the town centre I tried to go in North House museum, but only guided tours were allowed and there was only one girl there as everyone had phoned in sick! I was told to return in afternoon. So instead I followed, roughly, the historic walking route map around the town. It wasn’t very big so didn't take all day! Went in the old stone Presbyterian church, which was completely plain, with white walls. No pictures or stained glass or anything. Just completely simple. The cemetery next to it had the graves of Confederate soldiers etc.I passed various houses listed as historic on the walk, although they wouldn't be particularly historic to us! The log cabin ones I found most interesting. Different from anything I‘d seen up to now.I then explored some of the shops and galleries. Funny little secondhand book shop there with interesting chap! Didn't get any books though – already got too much to carry!Made my way to Carnegie Hall for a ‘Midday musical session with Fran'. Fran turned out to be 80-year-old local piano teacher with grey hair tumbling down her back, who first read from notes about Mozart, getting a little lost, then invited comments about him from the smallish audience. She then played extracts from one of his sonatas, explaining the music along the way, before playing the announced sonata - during which she also stopped to explain. It was the one with Alla Turka in, so knew it well. Noticed she didn't do any of the many repeats! At the end she asked for more comments - she said we seemed half asleep! Which we nearly were, to be honest! But she was a very nice lady.On leaving, there was a carillon/chime from a nearby pretty little church that I had been intending to go in. The tune was really pretty and went on for ages. Was drawn to it like a magnet. Went in the church - Mount Tabor Baptist - which turned out to be a black church. The pastor was inside with a lovely elderly lady from congregation. They'd been having their weekly prayer meeting but no-one else had turned up! Showed me round the little church and gave me its history. Nice stained glass windows, only two years old. Was a bit surprised they'd been allowed to remove the plainer historic ones! Took me up into the gallery. Some of the old furniture up there. Had a go on the old harmonium but only one foot bellow was working! He hadn't realised as it is never used!He then opened up the organ, which he reckoned hadn't been played for about 20 years! The swell manual only had a few notes working but the great was ok . The three of us had a great time, me playing and us all singing such things as Amazing Grace, Blessed Assurance, etc! No music so all by ear! They wanted me to play on Sunday, but my train leaves 25 minutes after service starts. Shame! They took my details to tell congregation they'd had a visitor! Was really nice.Went to nearby sandwich shop for a bite to eat. Dewitt had warned me food in town was expensive. Had a toasted cheese sandwich plus the free packets of chips (crisps for the English!) for the whole of two dollars! One English pound! Best deal of the trip!

DAY FIFTY-FOUR – 13th NOVEMBER

Wandered through the little park to the museum again and had my guided tour - just me! Very interesting place. Included an old mail coach and a beautifully restored carriage. One room had display cabinets with scenes made by a lady member of the family who previously owned the house. Lovely figures from clay dressed-up - lovely humorous touches! Were done for their shop window in town and were lovely. Lots of historic items as well. Was able to play an 1830 Broadwood piano, but it was SO out of tune!A wooden building nearby housed a 200-year-old covered wagon. Great to see! Plus some other bits and pieces.Returned to shops/galleries to finish seeing them. Went to take a picture and discovered my camera was missing! All those memories recorded! Retraced my steps and found it on the bench in the park where I'd left it well over an hour before! Phew!Did the rest of town. Tried to go in the old John Wesley United Methodist Church but it was locked! Typical! It is also a black church apparently. Anothefr United Methodist Church a couple of streets away is 'white', although there is no official rule. Seems historic that folk go to the one their families went to.Returned to house about 2.15. Merle was home from her eye appointment. Chatted for a quite a while and watched some TV with her, then I did two hours of the Bere Link! Merle went to Weight Watchers!After dinner D drove me to the American Historic Music Hall in nearby town (Ronceverte). Had to sign the visitor's book. Folk sat around at tables and danced to Bluegrass music. Nice old-timers playing! Really enjoyable. Really nice lady on nearest table and I had a bit of a chat. Food was provided - like a faith supper. In fact there was quite a long time of silent prayer before it, after the lady and gent who organised it gave out the news - mainly who was ill and in hospital. But they welcomed their visitor from England and I got a round of applause! A nice family-feel about the event. The lady on next table invited me to get food, so got some nibbles on a plate.After the musicians restarted I joined in the dancing for a while. Good fun! D continued playing games on his computer!There was quite a lot of memorabilia on the walls which was interesting. Did some searching on computer and in visitor leaflets but absolutely nothing on in town tomorrow, and I‘d seen all there was to see. Perhaps I could walk the three miles or so to Lost World Caverns. Will see.

DAY FIFTY-FOUR – 13th NOVEMBER

The very plain but lovely Presbyterian Church in Lewisburg.

The cemetery beside it that contained the graves of Confederate soldiers

Mount Tabor Baptist Church, including their pastor and a lady from the congregations who I had a lovely time with, singing choruses!

Two prominent Lewisburg buildings, including Carnegie Hall

The buildings that housed the enjoyable museum

General views of the town

One of the United Methodist churches

The evening at the American Historic Music Hall, with Bluegrass music

Merle popped into my bedroom early this morning to let me know she had just arranged for me to go with a neighbour in the afternoon to see what she said was a 'blue loon'. Didn't think there was such a thing but sounded good! After she'd gone to work I wondered if she'd misheard because of her hearing problems - I was right! Turned out to be a barn loom! Which was just as good!I went to the Post Office in the morning with a box of summer clothes and booklets, intending to mail them home and reduce my luggage. Discovered the chap there the previous day hadn't given me the complete information - my box would cost $57 to mail! More than the contents were worth! So carted the box home again! Would just have to carry everything around.Booked a ticket online for the Voices of Christmas production at the famous Strasburg theatre when I'm in Amish country in PA. It said sold out on website, but I phoned and they had a single ticket – a good seat apparently as well! Always worth checking!I did a bit more to the parish mag and sorted a few more things out. Had an early lunch - ham sandwich and banana – then the lovely neighbour came at 12.30. Very nice lady. Her friend was driving, who was also very nice.We went via Ronceverte again but they stopped at an old fashioned (ie like we have in UK!) hardware store and then at a feed store. Was good to go in them. Both looked like they should have been in UK! Saw some really thick, warm overalls in the latter that Robin would have liked! Carhartt make I think. But would never have fitted in my suitcase, which was already bulging after my trip so far! The shop chap loaded the feed into wrong car! (Our driver owned a farm.) Some real hillbilly characters in there. Do love the variety of folk I'm seeing. Almost expect Jed Clampitt to appear!Drove on into Munroe county. All farming. Lots of dilapidated farm buildings. Do love the ones painted in 'barn red'. Have tried without success to find out when the colour originated, although apparently at one time a tobacco company offered to paint barns that colour if they could paint an advert on it.The lady with the old barn loom was in Pickaway – a lovely name! She was 84-year-old Elouise Slimbold - also a lovely name! Great character. Has two looms, the barn one and a smaller one, were in a converted half of a chicken shed. (Another one was in the house.) An old cast iron heater in there that really warmed it up. We stripped off a couple of layers!Her loom had a problem. I let the three of them try to sort it as am not a weaver (although had a child's one when young that I still have!). Joined in after a while and was stunned when I spotted one of the main problems! They were impressed! So was I! Was really interesting. The original stool/seat with it had the two front legs pointing out and the back two pointing in - intentionally! It was totally stable though. Elouise also did picture framing and basket weaving. Her house was full of interesting things. Had a canary as company. Her husband had died some time ago and she had fulfilled his wish and taken her grandchildren to Alaska! She had also cut up his army uniform and turned it into a lovely mat with other army colours. And his ties had been turned into a lovely woven piece! Wonderful lady.We were there for a long, pleasant time. On the way home we stopped at an old mill at Second Creek, having phoned so the owner would be there. A mill has been on site since the 1700s. The machinery inside was certainly old. The owner was another real old character. Had corn and buckwheat. Also a variety of corn called Bloody Farmer that was deep red. He had received a grant to repair the historic building. He wanted to sit and talk for an hour! But we had to return as it was getting late, so didn't stay TOO long! They are trying to get the area declared one of special historic interest. There used to be 20 mills on the creek. Now there are only three. He had his beehives enclosed in a slatted small hut to stop bears getting the honey!

DAY FIFTY-FIVE – 14th NOVEMBER

Janet (the neighbour I was with) told me bears had visited the town of Lewisburg this summer, driven to look for food by the drought. The playground of the school opposite the house where I'm staying had to be closed after a mother and cubs turned up there! One bear climbed the pole outside the baker's in town in search of the food smell coming out of a high vent. Her friend, who was driving us, said they had found bears in the middle of their cornfields when picking it, who didn't want to move!Yesterday someone said that they normally have lots of snow at this time of year - and suddenly the weather forecast has changed and they have predicted snow tomorrow and Friday! Really can't believe it! Too warm! They were saying it was going to be sunny originally! And DeWitt had taken both days off to take me around. Now that is kind! But hope snow doesn't put a spanner in the works. Could always build a snowman! (Cue for another song! Provided it's in a meadow!) We were going to tour the coalfields area, but might go north instead to Cranberry Glades.

DAY FIFTY-FIVE – 14th NOVEMBER

The barn loom and Elouise

The barn loom and the unusual special stool

Inside the mill

Inside the mill

The mill building and surroundings

Janet and the mill owner

Had a lovely day. It snowed - but I think I know why! Had an email from Alison at work to say that not only had the office been painted (a miracle in itself! No more mould!) but we are getting new computers! Wow! So I was prepared for tempest, flood, earthquakes...! Well, I got snow!Dewitt and I set off at 8.30 and drove to Droop Mountain (wonderful name, but a contradiction in terms?) and up over it to Cranberry Glades. It was 'kind of'

snowing all the way - a mix of small snowflakes and mini hailstones. The only wildlife we saw at the glades bog area was a minnow in a creek! But it was snowing and blowing well in one part of the boardwalk walk around them, and part of the boardwalk was under water so I balanced on the edging timber tightrope fashion while Dewitt walked through the water on his heels! Totally mad but thoroughly enjoyable! No-one else there, surprise, surprise! But must be really lovely in finer weather.We took the Scenic Highway Drive. The trees looked so pretty decorated in white flakes. But not much of a view from viewpoints as it was murky over Allegheny mountains. Stopped at one place and made a mini snowman! Dewitt made the body and I did the eyes, nose, arms etc!!Also totally mad, but nice! We were in Pocohontas county. Totally rural again. And very mountainous.We stopped at Slatyfork, at Sharp's Country Store, which is like a museum store. Wonderful! So many old things. But it does have things for sale as well. There were an old truck and car outside and an old washing machine. An old cart and tractor were by a shed as well. We chatted to the owner for a long time. The authorities, spurred on by Snowshoe ski resort, is trying to take his farm for a sewage plant on the banks of the creek, but it floods regularly, is on unsuitable land where holes open up out of the blue, etc... They won't do an environmental survey! All the environmental groups are helping him fight it as they all say it is unsuitable, and the government is offering alternative land free of charge which is being turned down. But they are still pressing on with the plan. Sounds like the UK! Apparently the authorities can use the argument here that if something is not financially contributing much to taxes and the alternative is, they can take (buy) the land to change its use. The farm is small but historic, as is the store, but that doesn't count, it seems. It will threaten wildlife etc. Poor chap. So nice. Not that old. And not a hillbilly! Seemed well-educated and not the usual rural type. Determined to fight it, even though he can't afford to, as long as he is alive. (See www.savethesharpfarm.com)We drove by Snowshoe -and stopped at a ski shop for rest rooms and had a look at the wares. Could see where some of the ski runs were up in the mountain. The season was due to start soon. They make their own snow!Found a dead owl at the side of the road. Such a shame. Didn't see much other wildlife all day apart from that and the minnow, two deer, turkey vultures, a hawk and some sparrows!We drove through Monongahela National Forest, and it was still snowing. Dewitt apologised for the snow, but to me it was wonderful as we hardly ever see it at home!We continued to Mill Creek - the biggest town we'd encountered in the sparcely scattered countryside, even though it's small! Took the road to Helvetia (proper name of Switzerland). Was where the Swiss settled in the 1800s. Road very winding and went past a coal mine and processing area. Lots of trucks going to and fro.

.

DAY FIFTY-SIX – 15th NOVEMBER

We also passed through a place called Adolph. Wondered if it changed its name during WWII! We were now in Randolph county. Helvetia was very sweet. It was snowing hard by then but only a little was settling. Lots of little buildings, including log cabins. Had lunch in the 'restaurant' there – an old wooden house. Interesting! Played their harmonium, which had an ornate cabinet above with old photos on it. Some stops didn't work though. There were various old artefacts around. An elderly lady with woolly hat (presumably the old mother/grandmother) came into where we and the one other young couple with a toddler were and said 'Didn't y'all know it was snowing here or didn't y'all care?'! Wonderful! Said we didn't care!Had a cup of Helvetia cheese soup, a cup of beef and vegetable soup (couldn't decide between the two so was offered both!) and half a beef sandwich! Delicious! I thought their water tasted good - D tried it and said yuk, it tasted of sulphur! I thought it was the most natural tasting water I‘d encountered! I don't like the water in WV or Virginia - normally tastes horribly of chlorine!I went in the little church there, braving the snow! It was a lovely little Presbyterian building with nice stained glass windows. Played the piano, seeing it was open!Then joined D at the little library, in an old log cabin building moved there from elsewhere, but the library facilities are modern. Has one room off with the old school bell above. The librarian let us into nearby little log cabin building, which they call a museum. Set up like an old house. Some old band instruments were in the loft area. Quite interesting. Couldn't go in the old honey and cheese shops as they were closed.Then had the long drive home. Snowing, then sleeting, quite hard at times. Had lengthy discussions with D on various topics, such as the respective education systems, planning, etc en route!We had been going to visit Beartown State Park on the return trip, but it was too late by then. Everywhere today there were loads of trailer homes and dilapidated little houses. We also kept seeing little trailers/caravans parked that apparently belonged to hunters. But the most 'wonderful' was a tatty, run-down little trailer that had 'Elvis Presley Hunting Club' painted roughly on it! Alas, didn't get a photo!Saw some lovely names of places, like Buckeye, Mingo, Elkwater... Saw various barns en route with tobacco adverts on. And in a tiny place in the middle of nowhere saw an Irish pub! They get everywhere!Merle has next week off as they can't find enough bus drivers for the school! Not only is it Thanksgiving Day on Thursday but the gun hunting season starts and apparently everyone and his brother will be taking to the woods to kill wildlife... No comment! But for poorer families it's how they get enough to eat -and there are so many poorer families in the state. Some kids grow up in horrendous circumstances - have had various details from D and M, who both work with kids who suffer as a result.

DAY FIFTY-SIX – 15th NOVEMBER

The Cranberry Glades

The Cranberry GladesA wonderful colour, even in

this weather!

The Cranberry Glades with a smattering of snow

Snow!

So pretty

One of the rivers we crossed

A slightly mysterious air

Until we came along! I wonder if anyone else saw it?!

The dead owl. So sad

The country store-cum-museum which was a wonder to behold inside

Outside the store

Alongside the store

This lovely river was beside this unlovely coal mining industrial site –loads of lorries go to

and fro along the mountain roads

The place in Helvetia where we ate. You can just see the harmonium through the door bottom right

I’m not really obsessed with water! The stream that flows through Helvetia

Inside the Presbyterian Church there

Inside the little building by the library, with various old tools etc and instruments from the local brass band

Some more of the collection

The outside of the Helvetia library

The snow hadn't settled and had stopped. D and I set off for Tamarack - a specially created circular building housing art and crafts vendors - a 45 minute drive to the west. More trees had kept fall colours around there. Passed New River gorge - sloping sides of hills covered in trees of fall colours, going down to the river - the second oldest in the US. The farming land around Lewisburg had soon changed to hills/mountains covered in trees. Or, more properly, a plateau with deep river valleys and gorges.The town where Tamarack is, Beckley, is totally different to any I'd seen so far. Houses more substantial, more built up. Not so rural-looking. The craft place was nice. So many lovely things - so many expensive things! Resisted all but a small booklet of bluegrass tunes to play when got home! Was so tempted by some lovely finger pianos! D stayed in the bookshop section while I wandered round. Found him playing on his handheld computer in a rocking chair when I returned! We dined there. I had trout fillets with ‘whipped’ potatoes, beans and mushrooms. Had a cup of clam chowder first - they had emptied the salt cellar into it, making it awful! Was drinking forever after! Was spurred into having a dessert, so had bread and butter pudding as the least sweet of the options. Did try a mouthful of D's pecan pie though! Nice but very sweet. (The place is run by the Greenbrier resort people – the food is organised by the wife of the Irish chef there. More Irish were to crop up later. They get everywhere! But did manage to go today without seeing an Irish pub - although there is one in Lewisburg!)We then drove back to Lewisburg and out the other side to Organ Cave, near Ronceverte. There was clear blue sky and sun for the first time all week, so natural to go underground and miss it! (Confirmed we were mad!) We were the only ones there. According to guest book the last visitors were three days previously! The second biggest cave system/cavern in the US. Went on a guided tour which covered two forks of it - supposed to be an hour and a half - we had two hours and walked between two and three miles! It was good being a shortie - I only had to bend my knees a bit once! Totally unspoilt, natural cave/passages. No fancy coloured lights etc. Just plain lighting. Takes a little while to adjust to the darkness. It was used by Confederate troops in the Civil War to mine saltpetre – which was made into explosive. Saw lots of hoppers that were used to wash out the minerals from the rock dust inside one branch. Nice lady guide, but had some inaccuracies! Like saying the process had been invented by the Chinese, who learnt it from the British in Australia in the 1200s! Don't think so! Britain not in Australia then! She said it was a penal colony at the time. But that didn't happen for several hundred years from then! Think the Chinese were quite capable of inventing it themselves! Had also been used in the 1812 war in a different bit. Lots of graphiti on the rocks from then. Also Native American petroglyphs - and some by Irish monks from centuries ago, allegedly, and a later impressive writing by someone called Murphy. As I've said,the Irish get everywhere! Even miles into a cave!There were iInteresting stalactite and stalagmite formations. But the cave system is drying out because of droughts so some big ones are under threat of dying through lack of moisture. What used to be a river of water running through the cave is now a trickle.Saw cave crickets - looked like big spiders. Lots of bats hanging from roof of cave: various kinds including pipistrelle, something like small footed and a larger brown bat. Some little bugs in the water. Saw where the ancient remains of a huge 20ft sloth were found - the first one found in the US. Also saw where a bear had hibernated more recently! But none there today!There is another cavern near Lewisburg, but that one is lit by different colours etc and not so natural apparently. Not the war history etc either. General Lee had used the one we were in for headquarters at one stage.Returned home via D's workplace. Went in and saw his office - he‘d given his secretary the larger part to keep her happy! Met some of the folk there.Saw a TV programme in the evening about people who have gone over Niagara Falls in various contraptions and lived. Remembered the magnetic attraction I'd felt at the water's edge! Also saw a relatively new programme called Murder Club - must watch out for it if it comes to UK! Four females - detective, journalist, DA office lady and medical examiner lady solving murders, I think in San Francisco. It was good!

DAY FIFTY-SEVEN – 16th NOVEMBER

A brighter day! Still some fall colour around

The gorge

A West Virginian bar – Beer and eat!

The entrance to Organ Cave

Bats

The hoppers

There was a good reason why I took this photo, but I can’t remember what! Perhaps markings?

Stalactites and stalagmites, one with flash, the other without

This one is know as Organ Pipes

Dewitt and I taking a rest by it

Finally discovered the radio station I've been listening to in bed is the Fundamental Broadcasting Network - FBN, from east North Carolina. Name sounds a bit worrying! But they do play all the old choruses and Gospel Choir type hymns. Some I'd forgotten I knew - like Make me a blessing. But heard a bit of one of their preachers this morning - oo-er! He was saying how he believed the King James version of the Bible was the one he and his congregation should use... Went on about it for ages! Never got to hear what else he wanted to say!We all set off in the car to Greenbrier and went in all the artists’/craftsmen's shops. Lovely things, but resisted again - part from a little leather leaf dish or ornament! There was a fascinating shop with rocks and gemstones and dinosaur relics, etc. Some kinds of stone I‘d never seen before. Some picture agate, which looked as though it had trees painted on it. Lovely!Walked down to the White Sulphur Springs spring there, but it had a film on it and looked mucky so you couldn't drink it! Rats! Wanted to taste the sulphurwater! Actually have had a bit of a jippy tummy twice in last two days - think it could be the local water, although Dewitt was also suffering one day as well, so could be something we ate on our journeys. Noticed my left ear was crackling again as well after all the driving up and down mountains. Oh well, shouldn't be doing any more of that after tomorrow - alas!Went in the Greenbrier expensive hotel and explored. No-one minded! They have some shops inside as well. Played a grand piano in one room - one of many there. They also have a bunker underneath built for Congress in case of war! That's why Lewisburg's small airport has such a long runway!Had lunch in the town itself at Quizos Sub place! Swiss sammie plus bottle of water for three dollars something!.Drove back to Lewisburg, taking some back roads. Managed to find a tobacco advert on a barn to photograph, which I had been looking for for several days.Back in Lewisburg I explored the shops that I hadn't done before and went in those I had. They were now decorated for Christmas for a special weekend event. Horse-drawn carriages were going through the streets. A couple of Victorian ladies and Confederate soldiers in the town square. Some strings of little lights up and lamp-posts decorated. Not an awful lot of people, but a nice atmosphere. D had said when they dropped me off that there were loads of people and I guess there were for here. At three o'clock Merle joined me to hear the Greenbrier Chorale carol singing in one of the nice galleries. Carols on the 17th November! Then we strolled home and went to neighbour Janet's house - who I had been to the barn loom with. One part of their house used to be a log cabin, then was added to in 1840. Fascinating inside! Had two mad but lovely labradors. Was asked to play their grand piano. There was music there, so had a good session! We exchanged regrets re fingers not doing what they used to and growing stiff! Janet has seven spinning wheels! She said I had gypsy blood because I like travelling so much!Watched TV, then I had something to eat before a chap Merle knew who was ushering at the evening concert arrived to take me to Carnegie Hall. (How do you get to Carnegie Hall?! Practise!) Discovered there is another Carnegie Hall in Pennsylvania, although very small, and one in Scotland, where Carnegie died. Latter rang a bell but couldn't think where it was.The concert was promoted by Appelshop, who have an internet radio station with bluegrass etc music. The MC yapped about it for ages, then showed a film they'd made about female singer Hazel Dickens - a real cheese grater voice!The MC spouted some more, read a couple of his poems, then introduced banjoist with violin and guitar accompaniment. He was 80! Lee Sexton. He coincidentally also went on about fingers stiffening, getting broken etc. Said he was down to playing with two! Made a good job of it though. Wasn't so impressed with his singing. His accent was also difficult to understand at times. A genuine hillbilly! But he finished with what I recognised as an Irish tune -Maggie!Had free refreshments, included in $7 ticket, in the interval. The final group was Rich and the Po Folks - well, that was what it sounded like from the MC! Actually it was Rich and the Poor Folks! They were excellent - banjo, fiddle, guitar and double bass.

DAY FIFTY-EIGHT – 17th NOVEMBER

Greenbrier

The row of little artists’/craftsmen’s shops

The building over the spring – which was undrinkable

Some of the trees at Greenbrier, the one on the right a pin oak

The very expensive hotel

A now endangered sight – one of the barns with a tobacco ad on it

The rolling open fields of West Virginia

Have discovered on closer examination that virtually all, if not all, of the vultures hereabouts are black ones, not turkey vultures. One stage prettier!Also forgot: one of the group last night kept referring to the Save our Mountains campaign. I had seen stickers while driving round. The coal companies want to blow the tops off mountains in the WV and Kentucky mining areas to access more coal! Unbelievable!Also keep forgetting: the farms put their wrapped round bales in very long caterpillars in fields and wrap them in white polythene. Saves on barn space I guess, but doesn't look very attractive!After breakfast I went to the United Methodist Church at the end of the road for the 9 o'clock service. (Merle goes to the Presbyterian Old Stone Church, despite originally being a Methodist, as that is what Dewitt is or was.) It was a nice church and ditto the folk. I discovered a bit of bad timing on my part - they were having a Thanksgiving lunch at noon and they invited me! But my trainwas due to leave before then. A really active church. They were also preparing meals for the homebound etc. They have groups that go to disaster areas like New Orleans to help rebuild etc. Like the church in Gloucester, you have to sign an attendance register! Ought to try that! It was a Thanksgiving service: Come ye thankful people come and Now thank we all our God were two of the hymns. Singing not very good despite quite a few folk there! Fewer than usual at that service apparently as folk were waiting till the 11am service so they could stay on for the meal. Sunday School was in between at 10 - in fact there were things on throughout the day. The young lady organist and pianist was good but another one who never varied the volume and she rushed on between verses! Left you gasping for breath! Before the service she was playing a flowery version of As with gladness men of old... Presumably as the town was having a Christmas event it was ok to jump to Epiphany? Or perhaps they use the tune for other words?Returned to house and eventually said goodbyes to Merle. My suitcase had actually closed!Dewitt drove me to White Sulphur Springs for the train. He looked after my luggage while I went in the Christmas shop in what used to be the station building.I moved my luggage along the platform to a seat and sat in the sunshine. So lovely and warm! Got chatting to a lovely 80 year old chap and what he called his 'lady friend'! So nice. D and I decided he might as well go rather than wait for the train, which is just as well. We knew it had been running 45 minutes late when we left Lewisburg, but it was later than that! I continued chatting to the couple, who had been there for a surprise family birthday party for him.Time went by... The lady and I said we wouldn't use the rest room in the shop as the train would be sure to arrive! After an hour and forty minutes we gave in - but just as we started going to it the train came round the corner! Should have done it earlier! The train left one hour forty-five minutes late! Quite a small train - only a few carriages. So high off the low platform. Climbed on a stepstool to board. I was allotted seat next to nice but not very talkative lady. We only had occasional short chats. I had the window seat. So much room! If I stretched out fully I only just reached the foot rest! And nice wide seats. Wish it was the same back home!Just before the train had arrived the longest freight train I have ever seen went by in opposite direction - was easily 200 trucks long! Took nearly five minutes to pass! Think it may have been carrying coal. The couple were amazed as well!There were tunnels to start with through mountains on train journey. Lots of tree-covered mountains and hills looking so pretty still. Why are the trains so slow though? Makes our UK ones seem so fast! Like the Americanism coming up to a station when the announcer referred to people 'detraining'! Sounds like they're forgetting everything they ever learnt!After Clifton Forge hit a really rough section of track. Shook and rolled for quite a distance! Perhaps that's why trains don't go faster!

DAY FIFTY-NINE – 18th NOVEMBER

After a few hours the mountains became green rolling hills. Sometime later we were in mountains again – the conductor said it was where ‘The Waltons’ was based. Nice view of the Blue Ridge Mountains...(Sings!) The café car closed for half an hour just as I was going to it!It took over three hours to reach Charlottesville, Virginia. I’m not sure how far behind train was by then! Would be quicker by road! Because the train was so late we saw less of scenery as more was in darkness, which was a shame.Arrived at Washington Union Station nearly two hours late. Saw Capitol, etc lit up on the way in. But what a wonderful station building - the most impressive I've ever seen. Wow! Decorated for Christmas as well.Joined the long taxi queue and ended up with an Indian girl driver. She took someone else who was going near me as well - an Asian American girl. We had a great conversation en route! They were both really nice. And it was quite a long journey, from 1st street to 25th. I wasn't the only one with a delayed train. She had come from New York - trains delayed, lack of seats, power cut... Sounded like a nightmare!Outside my hotel, the River Inn, were very pretty trees lit with strings of little lights. A boy dashed out and took my case and bag in and automatically took them to my room for me - he was very nice so I tipped well as I was feeling kind! The room was lovely. Got a special deal with Quickbook.com else I wouldn't have been able to afford it! Huge room, desk, chairs, sofa, large bathroom and dressing area, separate kitchenette, etc... Great! Cabinets in kitchenette weren’t of the best quality, but fine for me. A grocer's store was not far away, round a couple of blocks, but decided not to venture out in the dark that night. Read tourist info and realised it was impossible to do everything in four days! Had pre-booked the trolley tour to get my bearings, so would do that tomorrow. The hotel info said wifi was available in the lobby but I could get it in my room! Signal not very strong but ok. The start of the next stage of my exploration!

DAY FIFTY-NINE – 18th NOVEMBER