using a sewing machine fashion and interior design page 455-464
TRANSCRIPT
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Using a Sewing Machine
Fashion and Interior Design
Page 455-464
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Choosing Needle and Thread
Needle- Holds the upper thread on the machineAlways replace when dull
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Choosing Needle and Thread
Types of needles-Universal or general purpose- sharpBallpoint- rounded point for knits/stretchStretch- synthetic suede or elastic knitsLeather-wedge- shaped point for heavy fabricsTwin (double) and hemstitch (wing)- decorative
stitching
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Choosing Needle and Thread
Needle Sizes- range from 6 (delicate) to 20 (very heavy)Lower = finer fabricHigher = heavier
Size 9 or 11- lightweight (chiffon)Size 14- medium weight (flannel)Size 16- heavy weight
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Choosing Needle and Thread
ThreadDetermined by type and weight of fabric
Light weight = fine needle, fine thread (polyester/polyester-cotton blend), and short stitches
Medium weight = medium needle, heavier thread (polyester/polyester-cotton blend: heavy duty), longer stitches
Heavy weight = heavy needle, heavier thread ((polyester/polyester-cotton blend: heavy duty), longer stitches
See figure 4-3
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Changing Needles
1. Raise the needle to its highest point using the hand wheel
2. Loosen the thumb screw
3. Remove old needle
4. Insert needle firmly up to the needle clamp
5. Tighten the screw
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Preparing the Bobbin
Bobbin- holds the bottom threadMust be removed from the case to wind
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Preparing the Bobbin
Winding the bobbin1. Loosen the hand wheel knob to prevent the
needle movement2. Insert the end of the thread through the hole
in the bobbin3. Wrap the thread securely around the bobbin
several times4. Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder5. Hold the end of the thread until the bobbin
starts winding
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Preparing the Bobbin
Wind the bobbin evenly. You may need to guide the thread
Fill about ¾ full
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Preparing the Bobbin
Inserting the Bobbin-Open the slide plateInsert bobbin into its caseMake sure the bobbin thread unwinds the right
direction (refer to manual)Insert case into machineCheck the bobbin tension
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Threading the Machine
General process is same for all machines!From spool
To thread guide (directs thread to keep it from tangling)To tension discs
• To take-up lever (controls amount of thread) To more thread guides o To needle
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Threading the Machine
Tension Discs-Always check the tension before you being to
thread the take-up leverIf too loose, thread will come out too easyIf too tight, there will be a strong resistance and
thread may breakShould be some resistance but not too strong
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Threading the Machine
Thread Guides-If thread guide is on the right, thread needle
from the rightIf thread guide is on the left, thread needle from
the leftPull at least 3 inches of thread from needle
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Threading the Machine
Raising the Bobbin ThreadHold the thread from the needle in your left
handWith your right hand, turn the hand wheel
toward you until the needle brings up the bobbin loop
Catch it and pull both pieces of thread to the back of the machine
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Adjusting the Machine
Sewing machines create a lockstitch when needle thread intertwines with the bobbin thread
Adjustments to check-StitchLength of stitchTensionPressure
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Adjusting the Machine
Stitch TypeStraight stitch- most commonOther stitches- zigzag, stretch, decorative
Controlled by switch on machine
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Adjusting the Machine
Stitch LengthNumbers 6-20 indicate the number of stitches per
inchNumbers 1-5 indicate length of stitch in millimeters
(4 means each stitch is 4 millimeters long or about 6 stitches per inch)Regular stitching- medium length 10-12 stitches per
inch (2-2.5 mm)Machine basting- longest stitch, 6-8 stitches (3-4 mm)Reinforcement stitching- very short stitches, 15-20
stitches (1-1.5 mm)
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Adjusting the Machine
TensionBalanced stitch- threads lock in the middle
If top thread is flat on top and loops are pulling through- top tension is too tight. Turn tension knob to a lower number
If bottom thread is flat bottom and loops from the top are visible underneath- top tension is too loose. Turn tension knob to a higher number
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Adjusting the Machine
PressurePresser Foot- Holds fabric against the feed dog
(moves the fabric)If this pressure is off, your fabric will ripple or at
the end of your seam, one piece will be longer than the other
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Using the Sewing Machine
Guidelines on StitchingRaise the needle to the highest position and make sure
both threads are to the back of the machinePlace fabric under presser foot. Put the bulk of the
fabric to the left of youPosition the stitch line directly under the needleTurn hand wheel to lower the needle into the fabric.
Lower presser foot. Add pressure to foot controlWhen you finish stitching, raise the needle to the
highest position, raise presser foot, slide fabric to the back of the machine and clip threads
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IMPORTANT!!!
AT THE BEGINNING AND END OF EACH NEW STITCH, STITCH STRAIGHT AND THEN BACK STITCH (3 Stitches) TO SECURE YOUR STITCHES!!!!!
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Using the Sewing Machine
Stitching StraightUse your hands to guide the material but never
pull it through. This is the job of the feed dog not you!
Use the guidelines on the throat or needle plate to keep your stitches straight
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Using the Sewing Machine
Stitching Problems-Rethread the machineCheck the needleCheck the tensionRefer to chart 4-13 page 463
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Sewing Machine Accessories
Straight-stitch footZig-Zag foot- wide opening to allow
needle to move in the correct motionZipper foot- Adjust to right or left so stitch
is close to zipper teethButtonhole foot- Marking for measurement
of buttonBlind stitch-hem foot
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Sewing Machine Care
Lint can clog the machineUnplug machine before cleaningOil only if machine requires. After oiling,
stitch on scrap fabric to remove excess oil
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Computerized Machines
Push button commandsLCD screensExpensiveMonograms, buttonholes, embroidery,
decorative stitchesHas memory to store designs
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Things To Remember
Always sew 1st on a scrap piece of fabric
Make sure your pressure foot is down before you begin to sew
Only turn the hand-wheel toward you
Never sew over pins