utorial at ings for migurumi

TUTORIAL: BAT WINGS FOR AMIGURUMI © 2010 J.M.F. (mnemosynestar.deviantart.com)

While making an amigurumi Cthulhu using Cthulhu Crochet and Cousins’ pattern, I found the

wings looked a bit too birdlike for my taste (I’m weird like that) so I came up with something

that looked a bit more batlike, since Cthulhu is usually described as having a bat’s wings. The

wings are worked flat, made individually, and attached separately to the body.

I’ve included the pattern without my additional notes and pictures at the very end of this tutorial.

If you have any questions or feedback, feel free to send me a note through deviantART or

comment on the original submission.

This tutorial and pattern is not for commercial use, meaning that if you make something

with it, you can’t sell it. You may post this pattern elsewhere and alter it to your liking,

although I would appreciate a link back to me. If you use this pattern, definitely link me to

a picture so I can gush over how adorable your creation is. :D

STITCHES I’M ASSUMING YOU’RE FAMILIAR WITH

Chain (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), two single crochets in the same stitch (2 sc),

half-double crochet (hdc)

YARN

About 3 oz of your preferred yarn for amigurumi (I’m using worsted weight cotton yarn)

• If you’re making the plain wing, the yarn should be the same color as your amigurumi’s body.

• If you’re making the wing with an arm, you need two colors of yarn, one the same color as

your amigurumi’s body.

HOOKS AND NEEDLES

You’ll want to use a hook two to three sizes smaller than the size recommended for your yarn

weight. I’m using an F hook for crocheting and a B hook for pulling the yarn through tight spots

where the F hook won’t fit.

You will also need a yarn needle to weave in the yarn tails.

Tutorial: Bat Wings for Amigurumi

© 2010 J.M.F. (mnemosynestar.deviantart.com) 2

WING MEMBRANE/PLAIN WING

Using wing membrane color, ch 4, turn, sc in next 3 ch (3

sts). The ch 4 is where you will attach the wing to the

body of your amigurumi.

Ch 4, turn, sc in next 3 chs, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl

st in next st (6 sts).

Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn, 2 sc in next st, sc in

next 3 sts, sl st in next st (6 sts).

Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in next 5 st (5 sts).



Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts (6 sts).

Ch 5, turn, sc next 4 chs, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 2

sts, sl st in next st (10 sts).

This part is kind of tricky, so I’ve made it more detailed

than the rest of the tutorial.

The pattern is: Ch 2, turn, sc in both loops of next ch.

Chain 2 and turn the piece, then look at the chain you just

made. You want to crochet into both loops of the first

chain stitch you made, the stitch that the arrow is

pointing at in the photo. (Normally you only crochet into one loop of a chain, but in this case you want to

crochet into both because you’re shaping the little wing claw that bats use to hang onto things.)

So you insert your hook under both loops of this stitch

(as seen from ‘above’ in the picture) and single crochet

as usual…



And voila, you have your little wing claw!

Just for clarification, the stitch that the arrow is pointing

at in this photo is the next stitch. Do not skip over this

stitch in the next step simply because it’s being buried

by the stitch you just made or your wing claw won’t

protrude enough to be noticeable.

2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts, sl st in next st (10 sts,

including the wing claw).

Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in next 7 st, sl st in next st (8

sts).

Ch 1, turn, sc in next 7 sts (7 sts).



Ch 4, turn, sc next 3 ch sps, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 2

sts, sl st in next 2 sts (10 sts).

Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in

next st, sl st in next st (6 sts). Note: I actually made a small mistake in this picture – the circled stitch is supposed to

be a slip stitch, but I forgot the take the picture until I’d moved on to the next step, then undid the stitches to the wrong point for the picture.

Fasten off. Sounds simple, right? Well, that depends on

what you want. If you want a smooth transition between

the last stitch and the rest of the wing, I’m going to show

you how to do an invisible fasten off.

First, cut your working yarn so that you have about a foot

to work with, two feet if you plan to attach the wing as-is

to your amigurumi. Pull the yarn tail through the last

stitch.

Turn the wing so that you’re looking at the stitch loops

on the edge. The stitches we’re going to be working with

are the ones traced in blue and green; the orange is the

yarn tail.



Insert your needle under both loops of the green stitch,

going from right to left if you’re right-handed and left to

right if you’re left-handed, and pull the yarn tail through.

Insert your needle under the loop you just formed with

the yarn tail…

… and twist the needle around so it also passes under one

of the loops of the blue stitch (the right loop if you’re

right-handed, the left loop if you’re left-handed) before

pulling the yarn tail through.

See how nicely that mimics the other stitches along the

edge? And yet, if you pulled on the yarn tail now, it

won’t slip out like a real crochet stitch would.

We’re almost done with fastening off – we just have to

repeat the process with that stitch at the very top of the

picture, which happens to be the last stitch of the

previous row (and runs in the opposite direction).

First, though, we have to reposition the yarn so it’s

coming out of the right spot. Turn the piece so that

you’re looking at the side where the yarn tail is coming

out. See the little gap that the arrow is pointing at in the

photo? Insert your needle into that gap – which goes

under one of the loops of your first fastening-off stitch –

and pull the yarn through.



And there’s your yarn repositioned! Now you just repeat

the process with the stitches traced in the photo and

you’re done fastening off.

Weave in the yarn tail, leaving a long enough tail for

attaching to the amigurumi body if you’re not adding a

wing arm. I chose to stitch around the bottom edge of the

wing to neaten it up a bit.



OPTIONAL WING ARM

Attach wing arm yarn color to last ch of initial ch 4

(indicated by the arrow), ch 2 for first hdc (1 st).

Hdc in loops along short curve of wings (indicated by the

arrows) (4 sts).

Here comes another somewhat tricky part: you don’t

want to blunt the wing claw, so you can’t just crochet

straight over it.

The pattern is: Hdc into tip of claw, ch 1 (does not count

as st), sc into base of hdc (2 sts).

First, turn the wing around so that you’re looking at the

edge. See that little ‘knot’ that I circled in the left photo?

That’s the chain stitch at the tip of the wing claw. It’s

probably too tight to push your hook through, so use a

smaller hook to get under the loops and catch the yarn on

the other side for the half double crochet.

Once you’ve hdc’d into the tip of the claw, chain 1 and

look at the edge again. This time, we want to catch the

loops at the base of the hdc, traced in blue in the photo.

Again, use a smaller hook to catch the yarn on the other

side for the single crochet.



Once you’re done, the crook in the wing arm should look

like this; what you just did was turn the corner so that the

wing claw wouldn’t be smoothed out.

Hdc in loops along beginning of long curve of wings

(indicated by the long black arrows; the short gray arrow

indicates the beginning of the section with sc loops) (4

sts).

In the section of the long curve with sc loops, hdc in next

3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, sl st in next 3 sts (9 sts).

Cut the working yarn, leaving about two feet of tail. Pull

the yarn tail through the last stitch and weave the yarn

tail into the wing arm until you reach the first wing arm

stitch, leaving a long enough tail for attaching to the

amigurumi body.



Now make another wing to match the first, attach to your amigurumi, and you’re finished! Have

fun! :D

BAT WINGS FOR AMIGURUMI PATTERN

WING MEMBRANE/PLAIN WING:

Using wing membrane color, ch 4, turn, sc in next 3 ch sps

Ch 4, turn, sk first ch, sc next 3 chs, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st.

Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, sl st in next st.

Ch 1, turn, sc in next 5 st.

Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts.

Ch 5, turn, sk first ch, sc next 4 chs, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st.

Ch 2, turn, sk first ch, sc in next ch, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts, sl st in next st.

Ch 1, turn, sc in next 7 st, sl st in next st.

Ch 1, turn, sc in next 7 sts.

Ch 4, turn, sk first ch sp, sc next 3 ch sps, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next 2 sts.

Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next st, sl st in next st,

Fasten off. Weave in tail, leaving enough yarn to attach to body if you are making a plain wing.

OPTIONAL WING ARM:

Attach wing arm yarn color to last ch of initial ch 4, ch 2 for first hdc (1 st).

Hdc in loops along short curve of wings (4 sts).

Hdc into tip of claw, ch 1 (does not count as st), sc into base of hdc (2 sts).

Hdc in loops along beginning of long curve of wings (4 sts).

In the section of the long curve with sc loops, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, sl st in next 3 sts

(9 sts).

Weave in tail, leaving enough yarn to attach to body.

utorial at ings for migurumi

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