van go - footwear news | shoe news and fashion trends running shoes on tap for fall. fn pick 50 damn...

52
FOOTWEARNEWS.COM / MARCH 7, 2016 / @FOOTWEARNEWS MILESTONE TEEN SPIRIT Young shoppers on what’s hot & what’s so not RACE GEAR Athletic brands amp up tech features for marathon season FIGHT FIT How Reebok’s Rory MacDonald stays cage ready VAN GO For 50 years, Vans mixed rebel energy with real authenticity to create a skate powerhouse. Now the brand wants to go global with its original stars and fresh fashion faces.

Upload: vonga

Post on 18-Apr-2018

213 views

Category:

Documents


0 download

TRANSCRIPT

F O OT W E A R N E W S .C O M / M A R C H 7, 2 0 1 6 / @ F O OT W E A R N E W S

MILESTONETEEN SPIRITYoung shoppers on what’s hot & what’s so not

RACE GEARAthletic brands amp up tech features for marathon season

FIGHT FITHow Reebok’s Rory MacDonald stays cage ready

VAN GO For 50 years, Vans

mixed rebel energy with real authenticity to create a skate powerhouse. Now the brand wants to go global with its original stars and fresh fashion faces.

©2016 VANS, INC.

ThAnk yOu tO aLl oUr VaNs fAmiLy aNd fRieNds fOr sUppOrtIng uS tHroUgh 50 “OfF ThE WaLl”®

yEarS!

PH

OT

O:

CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

VA

NS

INSIDER

11 The Youth Vote Six New York

teens tackle fashion trends and sizzling

celebrity-brand collaborations.

16 FN Spy Buzz from across the pond,

Chiara Ferragni goes country and Manolo

Blahnik dives into film.

18 Retailers ID Hot Trends Buyers

at Atlanta Shoe Market narrow down next

season’s winners.

18 Buying At Sole Commerce Why

more retailers are relying on simplicity to

appeal to consumers.

19 What’s Trending The Badgley

Mischka brand switches hands and the

CFDA talks industry-wide change.

5

30Vans ambassador Christian Hosoi grinds at Huntington Beach.

ON THE COVER

Illustration by GLUEKIT; photos of Tony Alva, Steve

Caballero and Natalie Westling courtesy of Vans

STAFF ANNOUNCEMENT Chris M. Junior has joined Footwear News as copy

editor, with responsibility for editing all news

articles, feature stories and fashion spreads in

the magazine, as well as daily content on FN’s

website. Junior previously served as copy editor

at Rolling Stone since 2012. Prior to that, he was

with Running Times, ABC News Radio, Runner’s

World and The Asbury Park Press.

MILESTONE

22 Board Games Brand President Kevin

Bailey reveals the road ahead for Vans.

26 Perfect Pairs FN ranks Vans’ 10 most-

memorable shoe collaborations, from the

Half Cab to “Star Wars.”

28 Fast Times The 10 major moments

that helped define Vans’ past five decades.

30 Cult Of Personalities Henry

Rollins, Steve Caballero, Tony Alva and

other brand ambassadors talk sneakers,

skating and creating a counterculture.

38 The Real Pros Get the inside

perspective on Vans from the people

who make the company hum.

40 Moving Vans Ten celeb appearances

that shifted the needle for the brand.

42 On a Roll Best-sellers, galore! The 10

most iconic kicks from Vans.

MARKETPLACE

45 Shoe Of The Week APL’s Blade

b-ball style is on the forefront of a new

sneaker trend.

46 Good Taste FN squares off with UFC

pro Rory MacDonald to talk food, fighting

and great flicks.

47 All In Stride With a new retail partner,

Altra aims to pick up the pace in the

running category.

48 Advanced Training Check out the

high-tech running shoes on tap for fall.

FN PICK

50 Damn Popular Chris Brown takes to

Instagram to give a salute to Vans and a

teen viral sensation.

Michael Atmore Editorial Director

Neil Weilheimer Managing EditorKatie Abel Global News DirectorElizabeth Slott Design Director

Mosha Lundström Halbert Fashion DirectorJennie Bell Features Editor

Anna-Lisa Yabsley Online Managing EditorBarbara Schneider-Levy Senior Editor, Men’s & Comfort

Sumana Ghosh-Witherspoon Senior DesignerKristen Henning Women’s Editor

Chris M. Junior Copy EditorPeter Verry Athletic & Outdoor Editor

Sheena Butler-Young Senior Associate Editor, Business Margaret Sutherlin Associate Editor

Christian Allaire Associate Fashion Editor, High-End Men’sRachael Allen Associate Web Producer

Nikara Johns Editorial AssistantErin E. Clack Contributing Editor, Children’s

CORRESPONDENTS

Samantha Conti, Natalie Theodosi London Miles Socha, Paulina Szmydke Paris Luisa Zargani, Lucie Janik Milan Amanda Kaiser Hong Kong

PHOTOGRAPHY

Ash Barhamand Photo DirectorOona Wally Bookings & Production Editor

Emily Taylor Photo Studio Coordinator George Chinsee, Thomas Iannaccone Photographers

ADVERTISING

Sandi Mines Vice President & Publisher

Lauren Schor Associate PublisherMichelle Raskin West Coast DirectorMichele Loffman Account Director

Gina Stillman Senior Account ManagerErica Coren Account Manager

Giulia Squeri European Account Director Gomatie Sanichar Office Manager

Emanuela Altimani Senior Sales CoordinatorAnnie Belfield Sales Coordinator (Los Angeles)

DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES

Shannon Nobles Marketing DirectorCass Spencer Creative Director, MarketingCassie Leventhal Digital Media Strategist

Suzette Minetti Digital Sales PlannerChristina Mastroianni PR Coordinator

AUDIENCE MARKETING

Ellen Dealy Vice President & Senior Executive DirectorPeggy Pyle Consumer Marketing Director

Janet Menaker Senior Director, Digital Marketing & Strategic DevelopmentJohn Cross Planning & Operations Director

Randi Segal Senior Director, Institutional SalesSuzanne Berardi Senior Online Manager Tamra Febesh Senior Marketing Manager

Lauren Busch Associate Marketing Manager

PRODUCTIONKevin Hurley Production Director

PREPRESS PRODUCTION

Alex Sharfman Digital Imaging David Lee Chin Prepress Assembly

SUMMITS & EVENTS

Amber Mundinger Vice President, New Ventures & GMMary Ann Bacher Executive Editorial DirectorAmelia Ewert Director, Experiential Marketing

Kim Mancuso Director, Attendee SalesAlexis Coyle Director, Sponsorship

FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC

Michael Atmore Editorial Director of FN & Director of Brand Development Ron Wilson Director, European Operations

FAIRCHILD MEDIA AND FN ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED

BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION

6

PH

OT

OS

: OS

CA

RS

: RE

X S

HU

TT

ER

ST

OC

K; J

IMM

Y C

HO

O: C

OU

RT

ES

Y O

F B

RA

ND

; TIM

BE

RL

AN

D: C

ON

CE

PT

S

Jay Penske Chairman & CEO

Gerry Byrne

Vice Chairman

George Grobar Executive Vice President, Strategy

& Operations

Craig Perreault Senior Vice President,

Business Development

Todd Greene General Counsel & SVP,

Human Resources

Nelson Anderson Vice President, Creative

Ken Delalcazar Vice President, Finance

Tarik West Vice President, Human Resources

Gabriel Koen Vice President, Engineering

Christina Yeoh Vice President, Technical

Operations

Lauren Gullion Director, Human Resources

& Corporate Communications

Robb Rice Group Design Director

Joni Antonacci Senior Director, Production

Young Ko Controller

Derek Ramsey Senior Program Manager

Eddie Ko Director, Advertising Operations

Andy LimpusDirector of Talent Acquisition

Rick Gascon Director, IT Operations

& Production

Matt Williamson Director, IT Operations

& Production

Carl Foner Senior IT Analyst

Don Gerber IT Analyst

Ryan Ramos IT Analyst

CONNECT WITH USEditorial: 212-256-8120

Display advertising: 212-213-1900, ext. 4847

Classified advertising: 323-617-9094

Production: 646-893-3065 Individual subscriptions

& single copy sales: 866-963-7335

Editorial reprints: Wright’s Media: 877-652-5295

FAIRCHILD OFFICESNew York 10017: 475 Fifth Ave.,

16th Floor Los Angeles 90025:

11175 Santa Monica Blvd., London W1B 5AW: 48 Warwick St.,

Suite 202 Milan 20122: Via Albricci No. 7

Paris 75008: 9 Rue Royale, 011-3314-451-1300

2016 OSCARS RED-CARPET SHOESWe’re not quite sure if it was the fashion or #prayforLeo momentum that kept the eyeballs on this story. Fortunately, Mr. DiCaprio arrived looking dapper in an Armani suit and Christian Louboutin dress shoes.

CELEBRITIES WEARING YEEZY BOOST SNEAKERSIt’s unclear if this story will ever drop out of the top 5. Week after

week, the image-packed gallery drives big traffi c to the site. As long

as those releases keep coming, and the celeb sightings occur, it’ll

likely continue to do so.

JIMMY CHOO FALL 2016 COLLECTION: MILAN FASHION WEEKIn the height of fashion month,

between the endless runway

shows, many shoe designers

also present their latest

collections. And of all those

that showed during MFW, it

was none other than Jimmy

Choo that drew the most

attention — and clicks.

MEMORABLE RED-CARPET SHOES FROM THE OSCARS OVER THE YEARSIf we’ve learned anything over the past 12 months, it’s this: In the

lead-up to a major awards show, our readers begin to reminisce.

From Björk’s unforgettable Swan moment in 2001 to Angelina Jolie’s

infamous leg pose in 2012, FN ensured that not a single memorable

moment was missed.

WHY THESE TIMBERLANDS ARE CAUSING A SOCIAL MEDIA FRENZYThe online world witnessed a prime

example of social media gone

wrong. The anticipated release of

the Mono Grey six-inch boot was

overshadowed by a Facebook

storm that erupted when a few

users likened the brand’s extra

laces to a “noose.”

1

2

3

5

4

The most-read stories on Footwearnews.com last week.

TRAFFIC REPORT.com

8

Six stylish teens weigh inon their must-have shoes, hot trends and the celebs who inspire them.

By Sheena Butler-Young

The Youth

Vote

11

n an era defined by social media, buzzy celebrity endorsements and fads that fizzle as

fast as they emerge, today’s teens have a lot to keep up with.

But they wouldn’t have it any other way.

To tap into the minds of this highly sought-after and dynamic consumer base, Footwear News recently spoke with six New York-based teens for a revealing round-table discussion. From celebrity inspiration to budgets and favorite brands, this bunch had plenty to talk about.

And while the teens continue to find exciting new ways to express themselves with current fashion offerings, they had some strong opinions on how the industry could step things up.

“I wish brands would stop [simply] putting a celebrity’s name on a pair of shoes and then rais-ing the price,” said Hrishikesh Bardhan, a 17-year-old high school junior. “Some kids at my school own certain shoes just to own them — but it’s just plain overrated. You’re buying the shoe for the [celebrity’s] name and for the socioeconomic [status] behind it. It’s no longer about quality.”

Here, the teens give their take on today’s fashion landscape.

I

PH

OT

OS

: TH

OM

AS

IAN

NA

CC

ON

E; I

LL

US

TR

AT

ION

S: S

HU

TT

ER

ST

OC

K

I N S I D E R

12 INSIDER

Hrishikesh Bardhan, 17Personal style “I’m very infl uenced by the 1970s — looking less toward the contemporary cuts and more toward what the rock ’n’ roll era had to off er. Black jeans, boots, loose-fi tting T-shirts and jewelry are all elements of my style. For shoes, I usually wear leather boots like Chelsea boots, or leather sneakers that can be scuff ed and distressed over time.”Fashion budget “It varies a lot because when I go shopping, I’m looking for specifi c things. If I fi nd a shoe or T-shirts I like from a specifi c store, I’ll buy those. It’s more about scouting before-hand [as opposed to] spontaneously buying.” Most stylish celebrities “I take cues from rock ’n’ roll icons from the late 1960s to 1970s because their lifestyles intrigue me. I often look to people like Keith Richards, Jim Morrison and Roger Daltrey. Icons such as Steve McQueen, with that rough biker look, are also quite infl uential.”What’s missing from fashion “[I wish] com-panies would focus less on parading their labels [with celebrity collaborations] and put more em-phasis on simpler collections. Fashion puts a lot of [pressure] on money and people’s socioeco-nomic status. That seems shallow to me.”Favorite social media app Snapchat

Leila Roker, 17Personal style “It varies from day to day. Some weeks, I’ll wear a lot of skirts; other weeks, I’ll wear tomboyish styles and pants. My style is fl uid. Sometimes I like to be girly, and other times I like to be edgier.”Everyday shoes “Asos sandals because they’re aff ordable and last long. I wear a lot of heels because I’m 5-foot-3. I like Jeff rey Campbell and Giuseppe Zanotti, and I used to get a lot of Steve Madden heels. When I wear sneakers, I usually wear Nike Free Runs.”Shoe budget “My mom says, ‘If I can teach you one thing [about fashion], your shoes always have to be nice.’ Cheap shoes are the worst because they will mess up your feet, they fall apart and you actually end up spending more money. Everyday sneakers are $60, and really nice shoes cost between $250 and $300.”Coolest collaboration “The Puma by Rihanna collection. I’m obsessed with it. It’s punky without trying to be punky.”Most stylish celebrities “I love Rihanna. I also like Kylie and Kendall Jenner’s look. I like how Kylie wears leggings with big tops and Kendall wears boyfriend jeans with nice tops.”What’s missing from fashion “There needs to be a diff erent kind of shoe — I’m sick of wearing the same shoes. I was at a party [recently] and noticed that everyone had on the same shoes: black boots.”Favorite social media app Snapchat

Ardelia Lovelace, 17Personal style “It changes all the time. I skateboard, so I do a lot of boyish looks. I’ll wear baggy pants, but [I’ll wear them] with a crop top so I still look like a girl. Other days, I’ll put on nice slacks. It depends on how I feel.”Everyday shoes “Stan Smiths are popular right now. They’re super-comfortable. I’m walking all the time, and although my Converse are cool and they look nice, Stan Smiths are re-ally cushioned, so I wear them almost every day. I also [wear] SBs by Nike. Sandals are my summer go-to shoes.”Shoe budget “If I’m going some-where really nice, my parents will say, ‘OK, we understand’ — but they prob-ably won’t spend more than $250. For prom, we’ll go a little higher than that. An everyday pair is $150 max.”Coolest collaborations “I like Drake’s OVO line. I loved his collabo-ration with Canada Goose, and his Jordan collaboration wasn’t bad. I’m not into Jordans, but those were cool.”Most stylish celebrities “Solange [Knowles] is fi rst on my list. [Styl-ist] June Ambrose and [music video director] Melina Matsoukas are also pretty good. Solange has the right mix of fashion and style with the right amount of open-spiritedness. June puts a lot of patterns together and wears ostentatious hats and glasses. Melina is also laid-back but girly.”What’s missing from fashion “Color. There is not enough color variation. When there is color varia-tion, it’s expensive.”Favorite social media app Instagram

“My mom says, ‘If I can teach you one thing

[about fashion], your shoes

always have to be nice.’ ”

According to a fall 2015 survey by Piper Jaff ray, Nike remains the top footwear-and-apparel brand for teens.14 INSIDER

Megan Job, 16Personal style “I’m laid-back. I have a lot of thrift clothes — but they don’t look like thrift clothes. I wear a lot of crop tops and baggy pants. I’m tall — I’m 5-foot-9 — so it’s hard for me to fi nd jeans that fi t.”Everyday shoes “I wear the same boots every single day. They’re black Chelsea boots from Urban Outfi tters. They go with everything and are easy to throw on. They’re comfortable, which is [perfect] because I’m always running around the city. When spring comes, I’ll get my toes done nicely and wear sandals. I wear Birkenstocks a lot.”

Shoe budget “Some days, my parents are really generous and my mom will pick up a $200 pair of boots for me. But [other] days, she will say no to an $80 pair. It depends on her mood and what else is going on — like if I have a job at the time.”Most stylish celebrities “Zooey Descha-nel from ‘New Girl.’ I love her style — it’s very laid-back, but at the same time you can tell she puts a lot of thought into each outfi t. It’s a cute, simple, chic style.”What’s missing from fashion “Boho needs to

come back. Maybe it will come back for the summer. It’s very laid-back but nice at the same time.”Favorite social media app Instagram

Pushan Bardhan, 15Personal style “Comfortable and current. I wear a lot of Nike sneakers and sweatpants.”Shoe budget “I [typically] spend about $100 on shoes. I like Jordans, and they usually cost [between] $150 and $200. I’d say $1,000 is too much to spend on shoes.”Most stylish celebrities “I don’t look at celebrities for what to wear. I look at what people around me — people I relate to, like my friends at school — are wearing. But I think Drake and LeBron James have great style.”What’s missing from fashion “[Generally], I feel I have a lot of choices when it comes to fashion. But companies could create more de-signs and colors for shoes — they use the same designs over and over. Also, they could make shoes less expensive.”Favorite social media app Snapchat

Reginald Narcisse, 16Personal style “I’m into streetwear. I like the low-key Supreme [styles], but I also wear slacks a lot. I like to mix the two.”Shoe budget “My parents fund my pur-chases, and they’re somewhat generous when it comes to price. But if I presented a $1,200 pair of shoes, they would probably say no. It depends on the brand. I sometimes get really consumed by the hype when it comes to new releases.”Coolest collaborations “My favorite thing is when high-end brands or even streetwear brands collaborate with [everyday] or main-stream brands like Adidas. I like the Adidas x Raf Simons Stan Smiths and Nike x Riccardo Tisci Air Force Ones.”Most stylish celebrities “Travis Scott’s style is very edgy and cool. [He wears] coveted Raf Simons pieces. Young Thug is also breaking barriers [by wearing] female clothing.”What’s missing from fashion “So many new designers try to copy Raf Simons, and it gets me so angry. [New designers] need to fi nd their originality and stop trying to copy brands like Supreme. If you’re copying, your brand is not going to last. Last spring, there were a lot of pink and peach [colors in clothing and shoes], and I hope that comes back.”Favorite social media apps Instagram and Snapchat

“I wear the same boots every single day. They’re black Chelsea boots from Urban Outfitters. They go with everything and are easy to throw on.”

CONGRATSON YOUR 50TH ANNIVERSARY

We look forward to your partnership for many years to come.

16 INSIDER Blahnik recently announced a Rihanna collaboration, a denim-driven capsule collection set to debut in May.

PH

OT

OS

: WE

BS

TE

R, C

AO

VIL

LA

: RE

X S

HU

TT

ER

ST

OC

K; C

AD

EM

AR

TO

RI,

FE

RR

AG

NI,

DE

LU

CA

: CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

BR

AN

DS

Several designers marked major moments during the past month. Sophia Webster, whose presentation was held inside the hidden St. Barnabas during London Fashion Week, is moving ahead on plans to open her first store in Mayfair this year. The designer will soon bow her first full handbag collection, too. Nicholas Kirkwood moved into his new Soho offices Feb. 29 after growing out of his former Mount Street space. Inside the much-bigger digs, employees can take part in yoga classes and acupuncture, which are new passions for the designer.

Fresh off a birthday milestone, Rupert Sanderson talked about his trio of celebrations: a special night with his family, a big party with current and former colleagues, and a dinner-and-dancing fete for 80. He has one more notable birthday event to look forward to after Paris Fashion Week wraps: a trip to St. Petersburg, Russia, with his wife.

Speaking of travel, Manolo Blahnik has kept a frenetic schedule in recent weeks. Immediately after opening his new store in London’s Burlington Arcade in early February, the designer flew to Barcelona, Spain, where he received an award and talked about his new book with doting fans. Now he’s finishing a movie about his life that is tentatively set for release at the Venice Film Festival later this year. Will Blahnik be Oscar-bound in 2017? Stay tuned.

Patrick Cox will also be in the spotlight next year. The longtime designer, who launched his Lathbridge line in 2015, created the tour shoes for Elton John, who will hit the concert circuit again soon. The musician performed several songs from his new album at his Oscars viewing party, which raised $6.2 million for AIDS research.

Across The Pond

Between Milan and Paris’ headline-making collections, FN was busy last week keeping up

with the London crowd.

Three’s Company Alessandro Michele is a designer’s designer. One day in Milan, three footwear names greeted guests at their presentations dressed inhis piping-hot creations for Gucci. Giannico’s Nicolò Beretta wore a pussy-bow blousein powdery blue, Paula Cademartori wrapped herself in a milk-trimmed blush kimono and Brian Atwood wore a military jacket with birds of prey embroidered on the back. “With feathers as a key theme in my collection this season, I dressed to match!” Atwood said, turning around so onlookers could snap the hero piece alongside his newest shoes.

Paula Cademartori

By Kristen Henning

With contributions from FN Staff

SpottedIt would seem that Rene Caovilla might have a red-carpet gem on his hands. Just last week, two standout stars were spotted in the label’s Superstar platform sandal. Jennifer Garner donned the shim-mering style at the 88th Academy Awards on Sunday night, and Angela Bassett rocked it under a Milly jumpsuit at the premiere of “London Has Fallen” in Los Angeles on Tuesday.

City Girl Charline De Luca was inspired by two go-to cities for her fall ’16 collection: London and New York. “It expresses my passion for the metropolitan fashion vibes of these two cities,” she said. “Each style is named after a neighborhood.” Standouts include both velvet and leather ankle boots, plus two-tone metallic loafers. When she’s not designing her collections, De Luca is spending quality time with her newest family addition: a baby boy. “After this tough fashion month, we are going to take a break in the mountains,” De Luca said.

Fall ’16 ankle boot

Webster’s presentation

Fancy Boots Chiara Ferragni is going country. “It was about time that I designed something more cowboy,” she said. “I love the idea of desert road trips, and I’ve always worn cowboy pants and shirts.” She’s had cowboy boots, too, “but nothing quite like this,” Ferragni said of the fall ’16 assortment, which included metallic takes on western signatures and even an over-the-knee version that she wore herself. “This is my very favorite piece. I’ve never seen something like this so far.”

Fall ’16 western styles

Angela Bassett

etailers in the South-east are looking ahead to the coming months with optimism after an unseasonably warm

winter disrupted normal shopping trends last year.

“It was 85 here at Christmas,” re-called Jamie Turner, manager of the family-footwear store Norris Shoes in Douglas, Ga. “Sales weren’t great because of the weather. We still have some cold-weather product sitting around.”

For women’s boutique Shoefly in Homewood, Ala., unpredictable tem-peratures presented an extra chal-lenge for the storeowners. “It made it hard to stay on top of trends,” said co-owner Meg Roebuck. “We bought a lot of tall boots last year, but then everyone wanted booties.”

In response, Shoefly was shop-ping the Atlanta Shoe Market last month, looking for more booties and wedge styles for fall ’16. Roebuck said some of the strongest brands on her wish list are OTBT, Dolce Vita,

Sam Edelman and Seychelles.Across the women’s category,

booties are shaping up to be a major story for the fall season, updated with elements such as hardware, fringe and mixed materials.

Heidi Wood, women’s buyer for Tops for Shoes in Asheville, N.C., also noted that the Chelsea silhou-ette was an especially big player. “I think every brand had one this time. At one point we had to say, ‘No more Chelseas,’ ” joked Wood.

She also pointed to a masculine trend happening in the women’s category. “I’m into this rough boot look for girls,” Wood said. “Woolrich has these great vintage-looking hikers with flannel woven ac-cents. Taylor Swift was seen wearing them recently. And Timberland is mak-ing a comeback. They’re taking back some of their distri-bution and making some styles more exclusive. Their wheat-colored boot is going to do really well.”

On the flip side, brands were also showing a feminine aesthetic, according to Allie Bailey, head of marketing and promotions for the Head Over Heels boutique in Macon, Ga. “I loved all the color-blocking and retro, 1970s heels and shapes,” she said, citing strong presentations at Seychelles

and Chinese Laundry.The shoe and accessory boutique,

which caters to women of all ages with trendy fashion-forward picks, also branched out with a new type of product. “Our clientele tends to like neutral colors and styles, but we decided to try some sporty sneakers from Butterfly Twists,” said Bailey.

Generally, buyers seemed pleased with the fall offerings. Most predicted strong selling in 2016, despite some market pressures and uncertainty surrounding the coming 2016 presidential elec-tion. “We’re aware of our shoppers’

concerns, so we’re being picky about the product we bring into our store, focusing on specialty, must-have items,” said Wood. “She might not be out there buying a car or expensive jewelry, but she can always afford a great pair of shoes.”

Abigail Lignugaris, owner of Sole Shoes & Accessories bou-tique in Atlanta, said she is also watching several macroeco-nomic factors, but is hoping that a few

will actually work in her favor this season. “We’re excited about the outlook for spring,” Lignugaris said. “With parts of the economy looking good and gas prices extremely low, this leaves more disposable income for those wanting to spend more on apparel and shoes.”

R

18 INSIDER Attendance at the Atlanta Shoe Market increased 3 percent for retailers and 2 percent for exhibitors.

Atlanta Shoe Market

PH

OT

OS

: AT

LA

NT

A S

HO

E M

AR

KE

T: C

OU

RT

ES

Y O

F R

OB

IN B

ISH

; SO

LE

CO

MM

ER

CE

: CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

SH

OW

Southern Retailers ID Hot Fall Trends

“Timberland is making a

comeback. ... Their wheat- colored boot is going to do really well. ”

Heidi Wood

At the Atlanta Shoe Market, the big women’s stories ranged from hefty hikers to retro heels. By Jennie Bell

As more consumers gravitate toward essentials when it comes to their footwear choices, retailers at Sole Commerce in New York said they were keeping their buys focused and safe this year. Athletic styles and a range of boots — from over-the-knee to booties — were at the top of their lists.

Roseleen D’Souza, a buyer for Holt Renfrew, said she was keeping her list limited to double-duty shoes and athleisure styles. Since sneakers were her biggest seller last season, D’Souza said she would stock up on those for back to school once again. Regarding particular labels, the buyer was confident popular brands Ash and Vince would be winners again.

“We are trying to keep buys fo-

cused and don’t try to go too deep into one particular trend,” D’Souza said. “We want to have things that keep the customer interested but don’t want to give them too much to pick from.”

D’Souza also said she was look-ing at investing in more cold-weath-er styles this year. For that, offerings by Ugg Australia and Australia Luxe would be her go-to picks.

Thanks in part to celebrity and brand collaborations such as Adidas and Kanye West’s Yeezy Boost collection and the Puma and Rihanna project, buyers for Nordstrom Rack and Haute Look said that street-ready sneakers as opposed to trainers are expected to be top sellers for fall.

In addition to the continued

momentum in athleisure, the buy-ers said that fashion styles like over-the-knee and mid-calf boots are going to be important, especially in stretch leathers and suede.

Similarly, Marcell Nager of Mixed in Concord, N.C., said her buys were focused on classic boots and booties this year. “We’re looking for the over-the-knee boot, a low-heel ankle boot and great classic pump that has a chunky heel,” she said.

Prompted by a growing expec-tation for comfort by even the most fashion-focused shoppers, Adam Lussier, owner of independent women’s boutique Zanna in Am-herst, Mass., hit Sole Commerce in search of shoes that would give his customers the best of both worlds.

“We are turning to chunkier bases and higher heel heights,” he said. “We are looking at [buy-ing] more brand variety and less regulars. Considering the sales bar was set so low [the past couple of years], I would expect an increase for fall ’16.”

Outside of New York City, Marsha Gross, buyer at Clutch in Larchmont, N.Y., said her boutique was sticking with more accessible trends, including colored shoes and fringe touches.

“I was looking at how people were dressed when I was getting on the train this morning — and it’s still pretty basic when you get outside the city,” said Gross. —Margaret Sutherlin with contribu-tions from Kristen Henning

Back To Basics At Sole CommerceTaking a nod from the past season, retailers at the New York show are homing in on safe bets.

Buyers at Sole Commerce

The CFDA last week released the long-awaited Boston Consulting Group study of New York Fashion Week. The findings confirmed what many had seen for some time: Fashion must create flexibility in its six-month lead time model. “This was never about revolution,” said CFDA president and CEO Steven Kolb. “It was about

evolution.” While the study doesn’t provide a one-size-fits-all-solution, Kolb said the CFDA would offer a guidebook on how to present in-season shows successfully. “We’re putting the emphasis on what the individual brands want to do,” said Kolb. “For Fashion Week, it will be a mix of market shows as we know them and some consumer relevant shows.” The CFDA also said it would form working groups and find ways to support brands that want to shift their models but lack the resources to do so.

‘Brexit’ Is On Many Minds In LondonWhile British fashion leaders were talking about America’s surprising presidential primary race, they had their own country’s politics on the brain last week, too. Many top executives said they oppose Britain’s potential exit from the European Union, known as “Brexit,” a move that will be voted on in late June. Kurt Geiger chief Neil Clifford is among the retail heads who are publicly supporting the campaign against Britain leaving.

Curry’s Red-Hot Streak ContinuesStephen Curry is the biggest player in the NBA this season, and it’s not hard to tell why. With a game-winning three-point shot against the Oklahoma City Thunder on Feb. 27, he took the top spot in the league for most three-point shots made in a single season and tied the mark for the most in a game. Curry’s buzz is also a big win for his athletic endorser Under Armour, which is reaping the benefits from accelerated sales of his signature sneaker, The Curry Two.

CFDA Study Released

QUOTES OF THE WEEKOverheard in the industry

“Not only is Abraham a remarkably talented actor, his passion for his home country is contagious.” Blake Mycoskie on Toms shoes

donation to Ghana on behalf of

Abraham Attah

“The values of Badgley Mischka have always been luxury and timeless glamour; buying the brand back in this partnership will provide the basis to develop these attributes.” James Mischka on Titan

Industries trademark purchaseTO P

STO RY

W H A T ’ S T R E N D I N G

PH

OT

OS

: ST

EP

HE

N C

UR

RY

: AP

IMA

GE

S; F

LA

GS

: RA

LP

H L

AU

RE

N; T

RU

MP

: RE

X S

HU

TT

ER

ST

OC

K; M

YC

OS

KIE

, MIS

CH

KA

: CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

BR

AN

D

INSTAGRAMS OF THE WEEKThe 5 most-liked photos

from @FootwearNews

“The buckle boots are back at @faustopuglisi_pr #fall2016 #mfw”

“@casadeiofficial purple platform loafers for fall 2016. #mfw #casadei”

“Backstage at @fendi: The shoes don’t go easy on the wow factor.”

“Matching manicure to go with standout @manoloblahnikhq heels.”

19Sports Authority filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy last week. INSIDER

“Leonardo DiCaprio takes home his long awaited #Oscar in Louboutins.”

“We have the greatest business leaders in the world on my team already and, believe me, we’re going to redo those trade deals, and it’s going to be a thing of beauty.” Donald Trump in his Super

Tuesday victory speech on U.S.

trade agreements

Ralph Lauren show

United Kingdom, European Union flags

Stephen Curry on the court

1

2

3

4

5

on 50 years of originalcreative expression

Congratulations

21MILESTONE

From counterculture brand to the king of California cool, Vans’ simple shoes gave rise to modern skateboarding and the

power of personal expression. Over the past five decades, the company, founded by the Van Doren family, evolved from

a local manufacturer into a $2.2 billion, image-defining force. For 50 pivotal points in its 50 years, read on.

50VANS

By NEIL WEILHEIMER

23MILESTONEQ&A

BO

Even as Vans turns 50, top boss Kevin Bailey is focused on making sure the youth-culture brand represents more than just skate sneakers.

ARD

SEean Penn’s Jeff Spicoli put Vans on the map. Kevin Bailey took it far beyond its Southern California roots.

Under Bailey, who calls himself “the world’s oldest teenager,” the once-tiny

sneaker brand known for its Checkerboard Slip-On has evolved into an action sports powerhouse, at roughly $2.2 billion in yearly sales.

But Bailey, 55, is mindful of making sure Vans continues to feel like a family-run operation and doesn’t lose its way, as it did in the 1980s with a bankruptcy filing and a range of odd product extensions.

“I’m making sure the culture of the brand — even as we’ve grown at this rapid pace — is deeply ingrained in all employees because we don’t want to lose that,” said Bailey, who worked at Vans from 2002 to 2007 and then returned to run it in 2009. “I’m also focused on defining the ways the brand will continue to grow. What are those places we will

S

G M

24

PH

OT

OS

: CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

VA

NS

MILESTONE

Over the past 50 years, Vans has had a number of successful collaborations. What’s the secret?KB: Collaborations are really tricky. There is a very fi ne line between collaborations and licensing, and that’s one of the most important things we take into account. We’d rather do more col-laborations and less licensing. In fact, we say “no” far more than we say “yes.” Our pipeline is generally full years in advance. Any collab we do has to focus fi rst on the aspirational channel via our Vault product — small runs, very tight, limited distributions globally. And then it has to be someone that comes from a similar place in terms of brand DNA; not in all cases, but in most, they have to have an affi nity for the brand themselves and for some of

our pillars: action sports, art, music and street culture.

How do you judge whether the collaborations are a hit?KB: It’s more about what was the purpose of the collab. In some cases, it’s only meant for the boutique channel, and then it’s only about buzz. And [we’ll ask] did we build aspiration and do something that was inspiring to the marketplace and for our-

selves? Sometimes it’s just a Vault collection — we’ve done limited runs where people think we’re crazy. They ask why we did so few shoes and why we didn’t charge more. To us, it’s making sure we seed aspiration.

Do you feel pressure as part of a public company to do mass-market things?KB: VF and the Street understand our model. And they see the discipline we apply to releases. Even our basic core Classics, our original canvas vulcanized product, we don’t distribute very deeply to the biggest volume players out there because, in our eyes, that product is meant to be at a certain level. We think about our segmented distribution by consumer fi rst — are they setting trends, following trends or last to adopt trends. And where do they shop, what product do they want and how do you speak to them with marketing. To some extent that’s been the secret sauce as to why Vans can exist in a Dover Street, Barneys and Colette, as well as JCPenney and Kohl’s.

Any collaborations over the years that missed the mark?KB: At times Vans tried to make outdoor shoes without knowing what we were doing. We made break-dancing shoes at one point, weird running shoes. We even made shoes that were odd, like bowling shoes in the 1980s and roller skates. No collabs were really fl ops, it was more of those product-direction things.

After starting small with a shop in Anaheim, Vans recently hit $2.2 billion in sales. What’s the next target?KB: We want to get to $2.9 billion for 2017. We feel we are on track for that. We are beginning to shape what the future looks like. We are coming off six years of consecutive double-digit growth every quarter, and we believe there is still a big runway for this brand.

Where will the growth come from?KB: We’ll continue to focus on international growth. We look at geographic expansion as a key attribute of growth for the brand. Even here in the U.S., we have underpenetrated markets. We weren’t in New York in a meaningful way up until a few years ago. If Vans was to crack the code of not being a Southern California-only company, we had to crack New York.

Which market is hot right now?KB: Asia is growing the fastest; it grew over 20 percent in the fourth quarter. And we still have big growth plans for there as we go into the future, but we’re still fairly young in Asia. The U.S. continued to grow the next fastest at a healthy pace. All regions are growing well, and we’re starting to convert more in Latin America.

What does Vans at 50 mean to you?KB: It’s been a remarkable ride for Vans being a part of youth culture and celebrating creative expression at the core. It’s this beautifully messy time of life that kids go through, and Vans has been there. Being part of that keeps us young. We were there at the birth of skateboarding, and it’s amazing to see how much modern skateboarding has infl uenced culture and trends. The connection skateboarders have with so many parts of iconic culture — their ability to curate the cool from their tastes in music, their tastes in art, their tastes in fashion and the infl uences they’ve had in that greater world. They are the ones who are culturally connected. And being there from the day that modern skateboarding was born, the days of Dogtown, when Vans became the skate shoe of choice, to now, where we’re the No. 1 skate shoe brand in the world, has been remarkable.

How has the Vans consumer changed?KB: The brand has always been about something bigger than sneakers. It was about creative expression. The sneakers were the vehicle for people to express themselves diff erently. They chose to wear checkerboards, crazy colors, skulls and crossbones. Boys wore hot pink. In the early days we recognized our greater calling was that we were a youth-culture brand. Skateboarding was our birthing, but we were a youth-culture brand. Today, it’s still that same general demographic. We don’t focus on that, though, we focus on the psychographic — people who like to express themselves creatively — and that’s allowed us to transcend age ranges.

What’s the biggest challenge facing Vans right now?KB: It’s twofold. One is getting more of our product broadly known and getting more of our other product in front of them. The success we’ve been having with our weatherized Mountain Edition product is a good example of moving in that direction. The other piece is globalization. Global changes everything. It’s not about selling a California shoe brand internationally. It’s about recognizing that our consumer, especially the younger one, is so digitally connected to others around the world — kids in the U.S. care about what the kid in Shanghai is wearing and what the kid in Berlin is wearing, and the kid in Berlin wants to know what’s hot in Brazil — that we need to continue to create a product line that’s globally relevant.

choose to put our emphasis on — that’s geographic, that’s product expansion and that’s using demand-creation properly.”

On March 16, Vans will unleash several initiatives to publicly celebrate its 50th anniversary. The Cypress, Calif.-based brand plans to expand its House of Vans pop-up concepts to 10 cities across the globe — with performances from Wu-Tang Clan, The Kills and Erykah Badu, among others — and debut an ad campaign that will highlight “creative expression.” Additionally, throughout the year, Vans will also re-release iconic products from its skate line with new color-ways and updated technologies.

“We are going to put more emphasizes on the pop-ups. They are platforms for celebrating our pillars for creative expression and will allow consumers to activate within us,” said Bailey. “The biggest thing is that we will look to celebrate our 50 years of heritage while pointing toward the future progression of the brand.”

“It’s this beautifully

messy time of life that kids go

through, and Vans has been there.”

Kevin Bailey

marketplace and for our-collection — we’ve done limitedzy. They ask why we did so few ore. To us, it’s making sure we

ublic company to do mass-

our model. And they see theen our basic core Classics, ourt, we don’t distribute very rs out there because, in our

at a certain level. We think about

HoKBsnthchBocawstthextr

What’s the biggest challenge facing VanB: It’s twofold. One is getting more onown and getting more of our other phe success we’ve been having with oudition product is a good example of mhe other piece is globalization. Globaot about selling a California shoe brabout recognizing that our consumer, ne, is so digitally connected to othersn the U.S. care about what the kid in hat the kid in Berlin is wearing, and now what’s hot in Brazil — that we nroduct line that’s globally relevant

pour segmented distribution by contrends, following trends or last to athey shop, what product do they wthem with marketing. To some extas to why Vans can exist in a Dovewell as JCPenney and Kohl’s.

Any collaborations over the years tKB: At times Vans tried to make ouwhat we were doing. We made breaweird running shoes. We even madbowling shoes in the 1980s and rolflops it was more of those product

Q&A

MILESTONE26 COLLABORATIONS

PH

OT

OS

: CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

VA

NS

PERFECTPAIRS

ans has deep roots in skate and music, but over the past 50 years, it’s developed an

equally impressive arsenal of hot-selling collaborations.

From The Beatles Yellow Sub-marine collection to Marc Jacobs to Hello Kitty, the California-based brand has worked with dozens of artists and retailers. Despite Vans’ robust list of collaborators, the company is highly selective about who gets to put their own stamp on a classic.

“Anyone can take a graphic and slam it on a shoe,” said Dave Solo-mon, VP of footwear and equip-ment at Vans. “But if you’re able to tweak the graphics and bring them closer to the Vans brand, that’s when it gets fun.”

The key to successful partner-ships, he said, is to blend aesthet-ics, have ongoing communication and develop a line that resonates with both brands and their respec-tive consumers.

“It’s about the connection between the two brands, it’s about authenticity,” said Solomon. “When they’re two authentic brands that stay true to their history and heri-tage, then they tend to make great collaborations.”

Here, FN ranks 10 of the most memorable Vans collabs.

From cartoons to rock royalty, Vans has cranked out a lengthy list of killer collabs.

By Margaret Sutherlin

VANS HALF CAB (1992)Skate legend Steve Caballero launched his first signature shoe with Vans in 1989. In 1992, the original high-top style for Caballero was revised to the Half Cab after he saw skaters cutting their sneakers and using duct tape to secure them.

VANS ERA (1976)A standby sneaker in the Vans lineup, the Era came to life through a collab with skateboard star Tony Alva when he asked designers to add extra ankle padding to the Authentic.

VANS X DISNEY (1980s)The two iconic California firms (both were once in Anaheim) teamed up thanks to their geographical proximity. In the 1980s, Vans designed exclusive styles for Disneyland park visitors. The shoes were launched for consumers in 2015.

VANS X MURAKAMI (2015)Japanese pop artist Takashi Muraka-mi has a cubby in his studio filled with white Vans slip-ons. His limited-run collab featuring six styles was among the hottest sneaker releases in 2015, with consumers waiting in line for hours at retailers.

VANS X MOTÖRHEAD (1999)Iconic hard-rock band Motörhead was the first music-based shoe for Vans, and cemented the label’s place in rock-and-rebel culture across the globe. Originally limited to Vans’ friends and family, the sneakers were released to the public in 2005.

V

4

1

5

23

9

VANS X KENZO (2012) Kenzo creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, founders of Opening Ceremony, were longtime Vans fans and were anxious to collaborate. The collection was among the buzziest, featuring Kenzo’s signature standout prints on 29 styles over four seasons.

VANS X PENDLETON (1970s)Back in the 1970s, Vans made sneak-ers for the Pendleton Woolen Mills store at Disneyland, cementing their early collaborations. Today, the companies have released two col-lections through the Vault by Vans program, the first in 2010.

VANS X PEANUTS (1983)Charlie Brown debuted on Vans styles available only at Camp Snoopy at Knott’s Berry Farm amusement park in Southern California. The sneakers were released again in 2014.

VANS X STAR WARS (2013)The Force was strong with this collaboration, which has been one of the most in-demand for the company. It also is one of the best known for blending Vans’ signature aesthetics with those of Lucasfilm’s characters. There were 16 shoes in the original collection.

VANS X MARC JACOBS (2005)The collection marked a first for Vans: a foray into the fashion world, intro-ducing the brand to a new high-end audience. It was the first premium-priced sneaker collection for Vans.6

8

10

7

PH

OT

OS

: “FA

ST

TIM

ES

”: R

EX

SH

UT

TE

RS

TO

CK

; AL

L O

TH

ER

S: C

OU

RT

ES

Y O

F V

AN

S

MILESTONE28 HISTORY

1966 Brothers Paul Van Doren and

Jim Van Doren launch The Van Doren Rubber Co., along with Gordon Lee and Serge D’Elia.

On March 16, they open for business at 704 E. Broadway in Anaheim, Calif., where they

manufacture shoes on site and sell them directly to the public.

One of their first styles is the No. 44 deck shoe, now known

as the Authentic.

1984The company files for bankrupt-

cy. Despite steady sales, Vans’ production costs drain company

resources, and the firm fails to overcome its $12 million debt. As the courts approve a re-org plan, Paul Van Doren (below) returns

as president and tells employees they may not get a raise for three

years and that the brand must cut back on everything but the

quality of its shoes. Within three years, Vans has paid back all

creditors 100 cents on the dollar, and in December 1987, it emerges

from Chapter 11.

1982Sean Penn wears the

Vans Checkerboard Slip-on in“Fast Times at Ridgemont

High,” resulting in international attention for the brand.

2003 The Vault by Vans collection

launches, featuring the brand’s classic silhouettes updated with premium, high-fashion design.

1995 Vans begins its sponsorship of The

Warped Tour, one of the longest-running concert series in America with

thousands attending each summer.

2004 VF Corp. acquires the label for

$396 million in cash. At the time, VF CEO Mackey McDonald told

analysts, “VF is all about brands, [and Vans] is one of the strongest brands

within the action-sports market.”

2010 The first House of Vans opens in the Greenpoint area of Brooklyn,

N.Y., and serves as a cultural hub intended to inspire and

connect with consumers and musical artists.

2011In November, Vans passes

$1 billion in annual sales for the first time, becoming the largest

action-sports brand in the world.

2016 Vans marks 50 years of “Off the

Wall” heritage. Now a $2.2 billion business, it celebrates

the anniversary in 10 cities across the globe with special

House of Vans events.

2015Vans releases its first “Young at Heart” collection with Disney,

which soon turns out to be a fan favorite.

FASTTIMES

An appearance at “Ridgemont High,” bankruptcy and billions in salesare among the 10 major momentson Vans’ wild ride. By Jennie Bell

30 MILESTONE AMBASSADORS

Clockwise from top: Steve Caballero, Jason Dill, Tony Alva, Natalie Westling, Stacy Peralta, Henry Rollins

Illustrations by Gluekit

They’re the pioneers who infl uenced generations of skaters with innovative board tricks, documentary fi lms and dozens of signature shoes. These 10 powerful personas took the sport — and the Vans DNA — from the skateparks to pop culture prominence.

By Rachael Allen, Nikara Johns & Peter Verry

Cult of Personalities

PH

OT

OS

: ST

AC

Y P

ER

ALT

A: R

EX

FE

AT

UR

ES

; PA

LM

TR

EE

S: S

HU

TT

ER

ST

OC

K; A

LL

OT

HE

RS

: CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

VA

NS

Steve CaballeroThe skateboarding legend, nicknamed Cab, has been with Vans since 1988 and has had an impressive nearly 40-year career. Caballero was part of Stacy Peralta’s famous Bones Brigade skate team during the 1980s that featured some of the era’s best skaters. Caballero is known for creating many shoes with Vans like the Half Cab, which turned 20 in 2012.

Tell us about your fi rst Vans shoe.It was a huge deal. I was the fi rst skateboarder to release a shoe in the U.S. It was a huge success over the years. We redesigned the shoe in 1992 — that was the release of the Half Cab — and made it a mid-top. Once we did that, it blew up and everyone was wearing that in the ’90s. Now, it’s a mainstay in the Vans Classics line.What has your relationship been like with Vans?Just like personal relationships, they take work. There was a time where I had to take a 6 percent royalty cut to

keep their program going. It’s all a sacrifi ce, and there have been key people who helped me maintain my loyalty. One of them is Steve Van Doren. He’s just been a great supporter and he’s always had my back.Do you have a favorite memory from being on Stacy Peralta’s team?Releasing our video [in 1987] called “The Search for Animal Chin,” where we did a storyboard line about searching for this legendary skater. Stacy [Peralta] decided to write a story and we traveled to Hawaii, and Bakersfi eld and San Francisco, Calif.; we built a huge ramp. We were at the top of our game. It was kind of cheesy but fun at the same time — it just showed our personalities. Something we did for fun became legendary and an icon within our industry. How has skateboarding changed? It’s looked at a little more seriously as an occupation. A lot of guys have their own training facilities. We didn’t have that back then. We just skated whatever came our way. Skateboarders didn’t own homes back then. When I started there

weren’t public skateparks — they were all privately owned by inves-tors, doctors and lawyers. What does Vans at 50 mean to you? It’s a celebration of creativity and passion. They just represent the soul of skateboarding. They stuck to their roots, and being in business for this long shows their loyalty to our industry.

Stacy PeraltaIn the 1970s, Peralta started out surfing at Pacific Ocean Park in Santa Monica, known as “Dogtown.” At the time, skating was just a hobby. Soon enough, Peralta, along with Jay Adams, Tony Alva and others, formed what would become the most famous team: the Z-Boys. Vans took notice, and Peralta has been wearing the brand’s shoes ever since. He later expanded his ca-reer into film directing, stepping behind the lens for several mov-ies including “Lords of Dogtown,” which recounts his Z-Boys days.

31

32 MILESTONE AMBASSADORS

What makes Vans cool to skaters and even non-skaters?I don’t say this lightly, but Vans is as real as the skateboarders who wear their products. I say that for this reason: In the early ’70s, they were the first established company to rec-ognize skateboarders. When we were starting out, established companies wanted nothing to do with us. They didn’t want to be affiliated with us because they didn’t like our image. They thought it would be danger-ous to their brand. Vans embraced this image. They looked ahead and thought, “We like what these kids are doing, even though they’re sneaking into backyards and riding people’s pools and sneaking over fences and riding places they shouldn’t be — we believe the art form is real.” They have maintained that all these decades.Why are Vans skate shoes better than others?They have that famous bottom, and over the years they’ve developed very simple, perfect skateboard shoes. They never made their shoes com-plicated. They don’t put a lot of bells and whistles on them that aren’t needed, and there’s a hardcore aspect to that.Is there one pair of Vans you always travel with?To this day, I still wear the Z-Boys shoes we wore back in the day — the Vans deck shoes. In fact, I’m wearing a pair right now.What advice would you give your younger self?

You’re going to go much further than you ever expected. And just hold on. Do you have any favorite memories from skateboarding in the 1970s?The greatest memories were the raw experiences we had back when skateboarding was emerging. There was an illegal aspect to it, so there was always a gun to our head. As a result of that, it raised the odds — you’ve got to be as good as you can on every single ride because it may be your last one. I have countless memories of that. The incredible memory of jumping over a fence and seeing a backyard pool for the first time. There’s just nothing like that. No matter how many fences you hop, every pool has a different personality and a different shape. We weren’t hurting anybody, but we were pursuing this art form.How has skateboarding culture changed?When we started in the ’60s and ’70s,

skateboarding was an offshoot of surfing. It was done primarily by white kids with blonde hair. Today skateboarding is completely discon-nected from surfing. It became its own thing and now crosses every culture, every religion, every country. You see skateboarders in Japan, in Jakarta, in Afghanistan, in Africa, and everyone looks different. But they’re all united by the identity of being a skateboarder.

Natalie WestlingAt 19, Westling is well on her way to becoming a household name. The Arizona native is quickly emerging as one of fashion’s darlings, appearing in campaigns for Marc Jacobs and walking in runway shows for Saint Laurent and Prabal Gurung. A skate-boarder her entire life, Westling had Vans’ logo tattooed on her arm last year. Things came full circle in early 2016, when she was named a Vans ambassador and was tapped for a new campaign for the brand’s Sk8-Hi style.

Why does Vans resonate with skaters and non-skaters alike?Vans represents a crowd that is carefree and committed to doing their own thing. The brand speaks a language that everyone either wants to learn or can at least understand.Tell us about your first pair of Vans.

They were the classic red-and-black Checkerboard Slip-ons.

How did you decide to get your Vans tattoo?I was in love with the brand so much, especially the logo, so I wanted it to be a visible, permanent part of me.Is there one pair of Vans you always travel with?Yes, and not just one. I bring my navy and black Chima Ferguson Pros, gray Chukka Lows and black Sk8-His.Where’s your favorite place to skate?The streets of Los Angeles and Arizona skateparks.Do the skate and modeling worlds overlap?Modeling is so much about move-ment, so having a skating back-ground definitely helped with my skills in front of the camera. Skating was actually my “training” in a way, because I could be on set and perform whatever moves with better reflexes than I could’ve otherwise.What was your first big splurge after making it big in modeling?I actually never had a big splurge, but I think being away from home I could wear what I want, so I guess my recent splurges have been clothes.

Geoff RowleyRowley has the same scars as many skaters, and now at 39, he’s still battling blood, bruises

TONY ALVAAn original Dogtown Z-Boys member, Alva is still going strong at 58. The pioneer-ing skateboarder is involved in more than landing tricks on four wheels as of late; the SoCal native is an ac-tive surfer and a bassist in two bands, His Eyes Have Fangs and GFP. But Alva clearly knows his impact on skate culture and what it meant to trespass on military property.

Why is Vans so important to skate culture?Because it’s authentic. They don’t

just take and take and take; they’re

always giving back. There is always

something going on in surfing,

skating, music and the whole cre-

ative part of youth culture that’s

connected to Vans. They stay in

touch with the grassroots part

of the passion that kids have for

being creative. And they don’t just

do it because they want to make

money; they do it because they

enjoy what they do.

Do today’s skaters know about your legacy?Most of them know because of the

documentary that won Sundance

[Film Festival], “Dogtown and

Z-Boys.” Even the feature film that

came out after the documentary,

[“Lords of Dogtown”], a lot of

young kids really enjoy that film.

They know the stories through

not only books and magazines

but through these movies. To

them it’s influential because they

realize this was a time where

skateboarding was changing [and]

was progressive, and there’s still

an element of that in modern

skateboarding.

What’s one of your craziest skate stories?We used to trespass a lot to

skateboard. We used to sneak

onto the Marine base, Camp

Pendleton in Southern California.

We’d skate these pipes they were

using to cool nuclear reactors. We

used to tell the guys at the gate

that we were going to visit our

brother, that he was in boot camp

getting ready to get shipped out

overseas, and we’d go in there and

skateboard. They’d give us a visi-

tor’s pass to go visit our so-called

brother, but we’d be skateboarding

all day, hiding out in these giant

25-foot concrete drainage pipes.

How involved are you cur-rently with music? I do stuff with GFP occasionally,

mainly because of Greg Hetson

from the Circle Jerks [who] plays

guitar; I enjoy playing music with

him. I have another band called

His Eyes Have Fangs; we’ve been

recording another record and we

play a lot of live shows

involving the surf

industry.

Is skating still prominent in your life?It’s still very prominent, but I pace

myself quite a bit more than I did

when I was younger. I don’t go out

and wreck myself like I did when I

was younger, and I cross-train a lot

with surfing, which is easier on the

body. Every day I’m out there do-

ing this, I’m blazing that trail one

more day, one more increment

farther than anybody else has as

a professional skateboarder. I do it

because I love it but also because

it’s something I feel is important to

the history of skateboarding. I’m

going to keep going as long as I’m

physically able to ride.

“[In the ’70s, skateboarding had] an illegal aspect to it, so there was always a gun to our head.”Stacy Peralta

PH

OT

OS

: GR

AF

FIT

I SH

UT

TE

RS

TO

CK

, AL

L O

TH

ER

S C

OU

RT

ES

Y O

F V

AN

S

and broken bones on his board. Although the Long Beach, Calif., resident (by way of Liverpool, England) got his first signature shoe with Vans in 1998, the skate-boarding legend was a fan of the brand before he turned pro. More recently, Rowley has launched a knife company, Civilware, and partnered with Motörhead’s late leader, Lemmy Kilmister, on sneaker collabs.

How many pairs of Vans do you own?I actually collect original Made in the USA Vans. I have about 10 pairs of them, really rare models. I have some Old Skools in original leopard skin canvas, I have all-white Old Skools, I have some original blue canvas Eras, and then I have a whole garage full of sample shoes. I’m sample size 9, so every single season — spring, summer, fall, holiday — every single colorway, they ship me loads of shoes. I’ve probably got more Vans than anybody else in the U.S. Which Vans ambassador do you most admire?Steve Van Doren, whose father founded Vans — he’s somebody I have a huge amount of respect for. He stands up in front of everybody at every industry event as the face of Vans and tells everybody how it is; I appreciate that. And the current president of Vans, Kevin Bailey, is a huge supporter of skateboarding; he’s happy to vocalize his support for skateboarding at a lot of private business events. And obviously Tony Alva. He’s in his 50s and still ripping it on a skateboard. Tony rules: He’s the original badass.Tell us a cool story about Lemmy Kilmister and Vans.I wanted to partner with Lemmy and Motörhead because of their integrity, their morals. Every Vans-Motörhead shoe was Lemmy-approved. The last time I took a shoe sample to Lemmy, I asked him what he wanted to do with the shoe, and he said, “Burn them.” He would always cross the road from his apartment to the Rainbow Bar & Grill and spend time there, play the jukebox and drink. We took a studio photography shot of the shoes burning and ran that as the billboard right above the Rainbow Bar & Grill, so when he went over there when the shoe launched and looked up, he’d see a black Vans shoe and a white Motörhead logo on the side completely burning on fire.

Why’d you start your knife brand, Civilware?I like to hunt and I am a hunting guide here in Southern California in the offseason, from October to January. I do that to stay in shape because those are some of the most endurance-building hunting trips you could throw yourself in the middle of. At my age, I can skate more now than when I was in my 20s because my lung capacity and

strength building has helped protect my joints. I’m going to be skating until I’m at least 101. But I made a knife for fun. I liked it so much I made a couple for my friends, and they liked it so much that I decided to sell a few. That was about two-and-a-half years ago. Where’s the best place to skate?Southern California, all day long. There’s the weather, smooth con-crete, it’s not as old as other major

cities across the world and therefore the terrain is smoother, and there’s more architecture due to the amount of people out there. And Arizona, for all the big concrete drainage ditches.

Anthony Van EngelenA Vans guy since 2005, Van Engelen has worn the brand long before signing with it. In fact, he

Clockwise from top: Christian Hosoi,

Anthony Van Engelen, Tony Trujillo,

Geoff Rowley

34 MILESTONE AMBASSADORS

quit his former shoe sponsor to join the Vans team. Van Engelen turned pro in 1999 at age 21 and worked tirelessly to get where he is today. Just last year, the pro skater, known as AVE, won the coveted Thrasher Skateboarder of the Year award. He also has had major success in skateboarding videos including Alien Work-shop’s “Mind Field,” and most recently, Vans’ “Propeller.”Why did you leave your former spon-sor to join Vans?I grew up always skating in Vans. Even riding for DC, when I wasn’t skating, I’d be wearing Eras, and I wanted to skate in that vulcanized

sole. When I wasn’t filming, I’d be wearing Vans. I was just young and an asshole and was wearing Vans when no one was looking. Then, oddly enough, they were interested in talking to me at the time, and I don’t think they knew I was wearing Vans. It was just one of those things put out in the universe and it gets thrown back at you. What was it like filming the Vans “Propeller” skateboarding video?At that point in my career, it was a challenge. They get harder and harder as you get older. I have to skate a lot to do it the way I’m expected to do it. I’m not the most talented person, but I’m good at suffering. There are certain people

who are so naturally gifted, where for me, I have to be really mindful of things. I get all neurotic with it, but that’s been the formula that’s allowed me to accomplish these things. One trick you’ve tried over and over?There are tricks I’ve had to walk away from. There’s one that’s not even that difficult, but over the course of two years I’d go back and try it, and I was finally able to do it. It’s in my video part, and it’s this frontside 5-0 on this white fence on a sidewalk on the side of the road.What trip stands out for you? When I was 20, I went to Miami for the first time. It was probably one of the best trips of my life. Just on the level of skating and being young and being able to skate and the partying that was being done at that time. It was a perfect storm of everything where nothing could go wrong no matter how crazy it got. What does it mean to you to win Thrasher’s Skateboarder of the Year? That’s the only award that’s worth a shit in our world. It means the world to me to get recognized like that. You got kids who are gunning for that award who win five contests a year at $100,000 prize purses, but the award they want is that one. There’s no check, there’s no nothing, it’s just the acknowledgement, and to be recognized like that after five years of hard work and to be a part of that — sometimes I don’t even feel worthy.First big splurge?I remember when I turned pro, basically, all my checks changed over night. I went from making zero dollars to moving into a nice place and buying a big-screen TV.

Tony TrujilloGrowing up in the countryside of Santa Rosa, Calif., Trujillo started skating in his neighbor’s barn, eventually becoming known for pushing the limits with his distinct skate style. Trujillo has been with Vans since 1997, and over the years has created mul-tiple signature pro models for the brand. For his own designs Trujillo wanted to keep the looks simple, taking inspiration from the Vans Classics, including his go-to shoe, the Old Skool. And the dad of two said isn’t done skating yet and plans to do it for as long as he can.

What was an important aspect for creating your own shoe? For the first one, I wanted to keep it simple and keep the prices low. I was a skate rat at one point, a kid, and I wanted my shoe to be afford-able and have quality. I wore all Vans’ old classics, and that’s what worked for me, so I just wanted to stem off of that. When did you first start skating? I grew up on 10 acres, and it was rural. My neighbor was five years older than I was and skated. He had quarter pipes and a mini ramp he was always working on in his barn, so I grew up skating that stuff. I ended up building my own ramp in our driveway.Proudest moment in the Vans “Propeller” skateboarding video? The last clip in my part. I go down this big bank off of Interstate 5. Any skateboarder who lives in San Francisco or L.A. has always seen this big bank, and no one has ever done anything on it. So I rolled in on it and did a front-side kick turn and dropped down on it. It looks like big wave surfing, and it was pretty cool. What was your first big splurge? The biggest thing I bought was an old ’74 Dodge van. It had a bubble window in the back. [But] when I was only getting a couple hundred bucks a month, that was “making it” to me. To me, making it is being able to jump in a van with these guys and have someone pay for gas and go out and skate.What does Vans at 50 mean to you?It means that I look forward to 50 more. I know they got it in them, and they made it this far. It’s promising. It’s an awesome landmark, and I

HENRY ROLLINSRenowned and outspoken iconoclast Rollins is accomplished in a number of mediums, from music to acting, spoken word to radio and more. Many of his achievements were performed with a pair of Vans on his feet. The 55-year-old D.C. native knows firsthand Vans’ importance to cultures that steer clear of the mainstream.

How did you get involved with Vans? I have been wearing them since 1977 or so. They have been a part of my life since

I was in high school, through skating and music, so it was a true fit. I don’t have

to make anything up, and it allows me to register my life in an interesting way.

Who do you admire at Vans?I admire Paul and James Van Doren for starting the company with a few other

partners in the 1960s and steering the company to where it is now. I used to call

one of the stores and order direct. I would send a money order I would get made

at 7-Eleven, and weeks later, I would get my shoes.

Why is Vans so important to skate and surf culture?They are an identifier. It is a visual language that lets others know that you know.

In a way, it’s like urban code. Vans were part of an alternative culture, or cultures,

defining themselves, peeling off from the mainstream. A long time ago, on the

East Coast, you would see someone in Vans and you could talk to them because

you knew they knew. It’s like when you saw someone in a Ramones T-shirt. They

spoke your language.

What impact has Vans had on musicians and their fans?I think it shows that a musician is one of the audience. How cool would it be

to see Ozzy [Osbourne] onstage in Vans? It would make him cooler than he is

already. It would be a picture you would stop to stare at and call your friend over

to show them. Every brand ambassador has a crazy story attached to Vans.

What’s your most outlandish experience?It would be that the same pair of Vans were on my feet when I quit my last

straight job, joined Black Flag and weeks later, did my first show with the band,

8-21-81. My life changed in a monumental way, but it was the Vans that made the

transition from the shop floor to the stage.

You are involved in so much, from radio to TV, comedy to spoken word. What’s your greatest accomplishment? I do not place any importance to anything I do. I just do one thing and then another

and another. I don’t think I have accomplished anything great. I have done a lot of

things. The list of records, books, shows, films, television shows, documentaries,

voice-overs, and whatever else, when put together, looks like the work of three busy

people, but I don’t consider any of it great. I try to make every thing I do the best I

can put across. As to its level of greatness, I don’t think it matters.

“I do not place any importance to anything I do. I just do one thing and then another and another.”Henry Rollins

CONGRATULATIONS ON 50 YEARS OF EXCELLENCE.

We look forward to many more years as partners together.

PH

OT

O: C

OU

RT

ES

Y O

F S

TA

CY

PE

RA

LTA

36 MILESTONE AMBASSADORS

know they’re looking forward to keeping it going, so it’s encouraging.

Christian HosoiFor Hosoi, skateboarding has always been a family affair. His father, Ivan Hosoi, managed the legendary Marina Del Rey skate-park, where pros such as Jay Ad-ams, Tony Alva and Shogo Kuba skated. Hosoi turned pro in 1981 and made his mark on the sport with trailblazing moves like the “Christ Air.” Around 2000, Hosoi began a nearly five-year stint behind bars on drug charges, but has since turned his life around. The father of four and grand-father of three is now a pastor, skates nearly every day with his kids and travels the world with Vans in his ambassador role that he’s held since 2005.

What childhood skateboarding memories stand out?Getting my first pair of Vans was huge. It was one of those moments when skateboarding was everything to a 10-year-old kid. [My first pair of Vans was] given to me by Everett Rosecrans at the Marina Del Rey skatepark. I was seeing all the best in the world wearing them and feeling like this was one of those moments that start your dream and gives it a lot of momentum.Who do you idolize in skating?Jay Adams. He was a guy I connected with on many levels. It was about passion. It was about doing it versus “What am I going to get from it?” I kept myself down to earth because of guys like Jay Adams, who was raw, authentic and real in his approach to skateboarding.Do you have a favorite motto?Jay Adams said, “You don’t quit skat-ing because you get old, you get old because you quit skating.”What makes Vans cool to skaters and non-skaters alike?Vans is all about style. You had Vans on the feet of the punk rock gen-eration of the late ’70s, all wearing Vans because it was a movement. It wasn’t just a nice pair of shoes. It represented something. There’s a heartbeat there. It’s individualism, it’s attitude, it’s being yourself. You’re not connected to anything. It doesn’t make you have to be a skateboarder because you wear Vans. There’s an

attitude to it and an expression.What’s your favorite place in the world to skate?Right here at home. I have the Vans skatepark a mile and a half from my house. It’s brand-new. My kids get to skate there every day, and to watch them grow up and have their home park is really amazing.How many pairs of shoes do you own?I probably have hundreds. I have 10 crates of Vans shoes, and they’re all my favorites. I can’t get rid of them. I’ve got four children, all boys, and three grandchildren. They’re all going to have the shoes when they reach my size.

Jason DillGrowing up in Huntington Beach, Calif., Dill wore Vans before he started skateboarding. Vans has continued to be a part of his life ever since, as he helped design shoes for the brand’s Syndicate division and became a brand ambassador in 2012. Fans of Dill love him for his unfiltered personality and still worship his appearance in Alien Workshop’s skate video “Photosynthesis.” Dill’s career has spanned two de-cades, but he’s not content to stay in one place. He mentors kids on the team for his brand, Fucking Awesome, and travels the world.

What makes Vans cool?There’s something to having the complete original aesthetic every time. They never went tech. It’s always going to be what it’s going to be each time. They don’t have to reinvent themselves. It always falls back to the original premise of the gum sole. And they are really great

for skateboarding. Do you remember your first Vans?I remember there being outlet stores that would sell them. People would order Vans with this part purple and this part blue and some gold, and they’d never pick them up. My mom took me to the outlet store to pick out Vans that people ordered and never picked up; they’d be half off. I had a pair of Authentics on my feet before I knew people skateboarded.What’s your favorite tattoo you have?I have a lot of tattoos, and most of them are pretty stupid. But the Stevie Wonder one is my favorite. As you’re going along and just repeatedly putting things on your body at different stages of your life, you’re going to regret one or two. But I’m lucky I didn’t do my forearms and neck like a lot of people do. Some-times I think I don’t want any more. I think I have too many and they hurt. It’s so stupid to say they don’t hurt.Who inspires you?A lot of what I do on a day-to-day

basis is inspired by the kids who ride for my company, F.A. They’re in such a great window right now of being either teenagers or exiting their teens. Just seeing their career bloom is insane, and the fact that I’ve had anything at all to do with helping them become what they are — I couldn’t ask to be in a better position at my age. Watching them is a huge inspiration.Do you remember your first big splurge when you went pro?No, because I never had a license. I’ve never had a car, so there’s that, a giant thing you could spend money on that I don’t. I just spent $40,000 on taxes the other day. That was cool. But for a second, I was looking at that money before the taxes, and I was like, “Dude, you should totally go to Brazil right now and just lose your mind.” When I turned pro, I was young, like 16, and I would have been splurging on weed and Timberlands and Polo jackets. As I got older, I just splurged on nightlife.

“The punk rock generation of the late ’70s [wore] Vans because it was a movement. It wasn’t just a nice pair of shoes.” Christian Hosoi

Stacy Peralta in the golden ageof skateboarding

FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8118

OR [email protected]

THE P OWER OF CONTENT

Footwear News Takes LA

FN ISSUE: April 4 CLOSE: March 21

LA TIMES DISTRIBUTION: Sunday, April 10

Reach the industry and footwear consumers alike with this special issue

PH

OT

OS

: CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

VA

NS

38

The Real Pros

Warped, wild and tons of fun: Vans employees on life inside the skate shop.By Barbara Schneider-Levy

Best day on the job: “The first day I set foot on the sand at Vans US Open of Surfing.”If I was president of Vans for a day, I’d: “Issue everyone a fresh pair of Vans every month going forward.”Company perks: “Some of the coolest people I’ve ever had the pleasure of encountering work at Vans.”Favorite Vans athlete: “Anthony Van Engelen because of the unapologetic way he skates.”KEVIN BRABECDIRECTOR OF RETAIL STORE OPERATIONS; 15 YEARS AT VANS

Lisa Salazar Apparel knit

development

manager;

15 years at Vans

Best & worst day on the job: “The best day was my first day at Vans. There are no bad days at Vans.”Number of Vans owned: “Too many to count! I have two favorite styles: Sk8-Hi Slim and Slip-on.”

Kristy Van Doren-Batson Senior director of

events & promotions;

17 years at Vans

The work: “I’ve been working at Vans since I was born! As a kid I visited stores with my dad, Steve Van Doren, and worked fairs growing up. In high school I worked in our Norco, Calif., store and traveled with the Vans Warped Tour through college.”Best day on the job: “When the president of Vans at the time, Gary Schoenfeld, told my dad I could work at the company whenI graduated. I’ve been on a wild ride with my pops ever since.”One secret about Vans: “My dad’s cousin Mark designed the ‘Off the Wall’ logo when he was in high school. We still use that logo today.”

Best day on the job: “When we

cracked a billion dollars globally.”

If I was president of Vans for a day,

I’d: “Push to have ‘Fast Times at

Ridgemont High’ return to select

theaters at least once a month

for a year!”

One secret about Vans: “The fl oors

in our offi ce are concrete so people

can skateboard and bike at all times.

Some skateboard to and from the

printers.”

Dazman Primus

Senior footwear

developer;

10 years at Vans

Best day on the job: “When I

recently had the opportunity to

travel to the Dominican Republic

to visit a factory. On the second

day of the trip I visited a local

charity organization called Acción

Callejera — Fundación Educativa

to donate 1,000 pairs of shoes to

kids in need. It was a rewarding

experience that I’ll remember

forever.”

If I was president of Vans for a

day, I’d: “There’s so much op-

portunity with kids’ shoes. I’d love

to see Vans focus even more time

and resources on connecting with

kid consumers (and parents) to

build that business.”

Dabney Lee Senior director

of global classics

footwear;

11 years at Vans

Best day on the job: “The Vans

Parade commercial shoot — every-

one at Vans came together to help

create our brand spot. It was the best

way to showcase how fun it is to be a

part of the brand.”

One secret about Vans: “Steve,

not Paul, is the reason Vans is what

it is today. I interviewed Paul and he

told me that. Steve is the only one

who has been a part of Vans for all

50 years.”

My dream Vans: “Spray-on Slip-

ons, duh.”

Jared AbeSenior manager of

video production;

14 years at Vans

MILESTONE EMPLOYEES

Rian Eugene Pozzebon Footwear design

director;

14 years at Vans

Worst day on the job: “When we lost our designer, Ian Gray, to cancer. Vans is like a family, and that was the hardest day we ever experienced.” If I was president of Vans for a day, I’d: “Bring back all the people who have left Vans.” Company perks: “Steve Van Doren. No other company can compete with Steve.”

If I was president of Vans for a

day, I’d: “Create a space to encour-

age self-initiated projects, like

on-site silk-screening, a darkroom

where we can expose and print

film, and a woodworking studio to

shape boards and build ramp-like

sculptures.”

Favorite Vans athlete: “It’s a tie

between Leila Hurst and Lizzie

Armanto. I adore them equally. I’m

forever in awe of their braveness,

aggressiveness and creativity.

These girls rule. I also really dig

Nathan Fletcher.”

My dream Vans: “Since thankfully

the Huichol shoes have already

been made, it would have to be a

collaboration with a Surrealist artist

like Pedro Friedeberg or Remedios

Varo. They created some pretty

trippy checkerboard artwork back

in their day, and it would be amaz-

ing to have them on a pair of Vans.”

Renée Perdomo

Associate creative

director;

10 years at Vans

Bunny Caminiti Senior footwear

developer;

35 years at Vans

Number of Vans owned: “I love the Classic Slip-on. I own about 100 pairs.” Hidden talent: “I am also a pattern maker. Back in the day I used to create and make the patterns for many of our footwear styles.”

One secret about Vans: “Mr. Steve

Van Doren never wears jeans.”

Favorite Vans athlete: “Tony Alva is

my favorite athlete. Tony is Vans and

Vans is Tony. He represents our four

pillars: actions sports, art, music and

street culture. There is so much Vans

heritage with Tony.”

Hidden talent: “I’m a Civil War

re-enactor.”

Bob Provost Director of trade

shows; 37 years

at Vans

The brand doesn’t court celebs, but when a big name sports Vans, it draws major attention. Check out the 10 times stars upped the label’s cool factor.

By Neil Weilheimer

Moving Vans

PH

OT

OS

: ST

EV

E N

AS

H; A

P IM

AG

ES

: MA

RK

HA

MIL

L; T

WIT

TE

R: R

EE

SE

WIT

HE

RS

PO

ON

; IN

ST

AG

RA

M: A

LL

OT

HE

RS

; RE

X F

EA

TU

RE

S

40 MILESTONE CELEBRITIES

JULIA ROBERTSIn the 1999 romantic comedy “Notting Hill,” Roberts’ character, a fa-mous American actress, aims to stay grounded in Vans’ Old Skool kicks.

KRISTEN STEWARTTo leave a lasting mark at Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, Stewart stepped out in Vans Checkerboard Slip-ons in 2011, along with fellow“Twilight” stars.

MARK HAMILLLike “Star Wars” fans, the Jedi master himself geeked out over the latest franchise installment with a 2015 tweet about the Vans x Star Wars collab.

HENRY ROLLINSFor decades, the multi-hyphenate performer has been spotted in Vans, such as when he took the stage in 2009 in Sk8-Hi sneakers.

NORTH WESTSporting Vans Check-erboard Slip-ons, North West, along with Kendall Jenner, was a star attraction last month at the Yeezy Season 3 presentation.

LORDS OF DOGTOWNThe cast of the 2005 movie, decked out in Vans Authentics, paid homage to the legendary Z-Boys skate team, which formed after a 1970s SoCal drought gave way to “pool surfing.”

JUSTIN BIEBERA longtime fan of the brand, Bieber rocked Vans Classic Slip-ons in November at the MTV European Music Awards.

RINGO STARRAll you need is love. The iconic Beatles drummer wore a pair of custom Vans, emblazoned with his own image, to his 75th birthday party in Hollywood last summer.

REESE WITHERSPOONIn 2015, the actress-producer posted a stylish contrast on Instagram leading up to awards season, showing off her for-the-show Jimmy Choos and after-party metallic Vans Sk8-Hi Slims.

STEVE NASHAt the gravity-defying NBA slam-dunk contest, retired player Nash kicks up an alley-oop to Andre Drummond in Classic Slip-ons.

Skaters are notoriously fi ckle, but Vans found a way to keep them loyal. Here are the brand’s 10 most iconic kicks.

By Christian Allaire

On A Roll

PH

OT

OS

: CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

VA

NS

42 MILESTONE HOT SELLERS

AUTHENTICCreated in 1966, the stylewas Vans’ first deck shoe and has since been embraced by professional skaters for its durability and grip.

ALOMARThe premium high-top version of the “106 Low Top” entered the skate scene in 2010.

SK8-HIThe signature Sk8-Hi was born in 1978. At the time, it focused on new performance functions, like a higher silhouette shield-ing ankles from injuries.

CLASSIC SLIP-ONDebuted in 1977, the iconic slip-on rose to fame after being worn by Sean Penn’s surfer character Jeff Spicoli in “Fast Times at Ridgemont High.”

NEXPAMaking its mark in 2011, the Nexpa is the look of choice for the Vans surf team. The clean, no-fuss san-dal brings athletic foam comfort to its classic design.

CHUKKA LOWDesigned in collaboration with the Vans amateur skate team in 2006, the Chukka Low is now available in a variety of customizable finishes.

CHIMA PROThe Chima’s updated design was introduced in 2013. It features new, lightweight internal features like a Duracap upper reinforcement that prolongs the shoe’s lifespan.

HALF CABAs more technical flip-tricks burst onto the scene, skaters began flipping the collar of their shoes down — thus, a lower half-cab style emerged in 1992.

ERAThe Era style first showed up in 1976 and was designed by pro skaters Tony Alva and Stacy Peralta. It was also the shoe that launched the “Off the Wall” logo.

OLD SKOOLLaunched in 1977, the Old Skool sneaker debuted the brand’s now-signature Jazz Stripe — a design that began as a random doodle by founder Paul Van Doren.

FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8118 OR [email protected]

ISSUE April 11 / CLOSE March 30

Play Hard. Work Harder.

WORK BOOT

FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8118 OR [email protected]

THE P OWER OF CONTENT

ISSUE March 21 / CLOSE March 9

SAAIt’s all in the making.

SSAAAAM A D E I N T H E

PH

OT

O: J

OS

HU

A S

CO

TT

The Blade features a mélange Techloom upper and perforated synthetic overlays. 45

A trend is taking form in the sneaker market, where exaggerated ankle cutouts add high drama to hip silhouettes. Athletic Propulsion Labs’ Blade performance basketball style was one of the first to take the plunge.

S H O EO F T H EW E E K

M A R K E T P L A C E

The Big Scoop

PH

OT

OS

: MA

CD

ON

AL

D: C

OU

RT

ES

Y O

F R

EE

BO

K; J

OE

BE

EF:

CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

INS

TA

GR

AM

; LA

MB

OR

GH

INI:

RE

X S

HU

TT

ER

ST

OC

K; B

LO

OD

SP

OR

T: C

OU

RT

ES

Y O

F W

AR

NE

R H

OM

E V

IDE

O; L

AW

LE

R: A

P IM

AG

ES

; AL

L O

TH

ER

S: S

HU

TT

ER

ST

OC

K

MacDonald’s training playlist features music from metal bands like Slipknot and Lamb of God.46 MARKETPLACE ATHLETIC

For some mixed-martial-arts fi ghters, time away from the octagon between bouts is welcomed. But for Rory MacDonald, there is no downtime — only time to train. Since losing in an epic brawl to Robbie Lawler at UFC 189 last year, the Canadian fi ghter is still waiting for a scheduled opponent, but in the meantime is staying sharp for his next bout. “I’m training in martial arts every day and doing fi tness as well — strength and conditioning, rehab, running — just hoping for a fi ght to come up,” he said. MacDonald, who inked a deal with Reebok in July, often works out in the brand’s FuryLite shoe and hits the treadmill in the ZPump Fusion. Away from the gym, MacDonald’s shoe of choice is the Reebok Ventilator, especially the brand’s collaboration with BAPE and Japanese retailer Mita on the silhouette, which hit stores in January. While MacDonald is the top welterweight contender, he said his next fi ght might be at middleweight, as he’s looking to make his 185-pound debut this year. Overall, the brawler dubbed “Red King” said he wants to mix it up “as soon as possible.” Here are a few more things that drive the UFC pro.

Rory MacDonaldThe UFC standout reveals his training and eating habits, and his worst sport.

By Peter Verry

GOOD TASTE

THE FIGHT I REALLY WANT NEXT:

“Robbie Lawler, to avenge my losses.”

BEST FOOD IN MY HOMETOWN:

“A top five restaurant in Montreal is Joe Beef.”

SPORT I CAN’T PLAY:

“Basketball. I’m pretty terrible at that.”

FAVORITE FIGHT MOVIE:

“The movies from the 1980s and ’90s, like ‘Bloodsport’ with Jean-Claude Van Damme.”

MY DREAM CAR:

“Those Lamborghini Aventadors.”

TRAINING CHEAT FOODS:

“I like sweets, candy and ice cream.”

ompetition is notori-ously fi erce in the running category, but in the past fi ve years, Altra has made steady

progress, doubling its sales growth each year and signing up roughly 1,500 retail accounts worldwide.

For 2016, the brand, best known for shoes with a foot-shaped toe box and zero drop, aims to expand its re-tail footprint by at least 150 doors — two-thirds of those outside the U.S.

One of Altra’s newest retail part-ners is outdoor behemoth REI, which told Footwear News that the brand has received a positive response from customers.

“Our merchandising team listens closely to member feedback when we consider our product inventory,” said Kristin Finton, REI category merchandising manager for running footwear. “In talking with the foot-wear buyers, our members have been asking for the Altra brand.”

Altra started with REI in May 2015 in four locations, but within

weeks expanded to 14. By year’s end, the label was in 34 REI doors. For 2016, Altra is in discussion with the retailer to be in 84 of its doors.

Although Altra’s retail base has grown quickly since launching, it is still a niche player in the mar-ket. According to data compiled by SportsOneSource, the brand held less than 1 percent of the performance-running footwear category in 2015.

To bolster growth, brand founder Golden Harper and his team have a number of off erings on tap.

For fall ’16, Altra will introduce the Torin 2.5, an update to its popu-lar neutral-running franchise, and also debut the Lone Peak 3.0 trail-running silhouette. And Harper said he anticipates the max-cushioned Olympus 2.0 trail shoe, featuring a Vibram Megagrip outsole, will be a hit at retail.

The 33-year-old executive pre-dicted that in 2016, cushioned-neutral running and trail-running shoes — the two best categories historically for Altra — will continue

C

As a young runner, Golden Harper melted his shoe soles in a toaster oven to create a zero drop.

ing, ‘The local running store doesn’t carry the models I want, so can I sell them out of my clinic?’”

Nevertheless, the running busi-ness is challenging for a newcomer like Altra, as devout runners are staunchly brand loyal.

“There will always be people who stick with tradition and what they know and like,” said Harper. “They will never even give [Altra] a try. But when we capture people, they stay.”

He added that the running market holds plenty of

untapped potential.“There are a lot of

customers we haven’t reached because the per-pair aver-age is huge with our customers,” he said.

“It’s not like we have 200,000 people out there

with one pair each. It’s more like we have 40,000 people

out there with fi ve pairs each.”

To attract more customers, Altra plans to continue to focus on TV advertis-ing and bolster its

presence on socialmedia. The brand

will also concentrate on running-event sponsorship, an

initiative it launched last year, when it signed on as sponsor of the West-ern States and Hardrock 100-mile endurance runs.

to sell well, with the biggest growth coming from the hiking and casual-walking categories.

Another strong area for Altra is its Everyday line, featuring dressier shoes designed to be worn in the of-fi ce or out on the town.

Harper recalled that the collec-tion came about organically. “It was our most popular request on social media and with our customers,” he said. “We took the Instinct, which is our fl agship shoe, put a high-end nubuck upper on it and popped it out there. We’ve never done a dol-lar of advertising on it, but we’ve sold tens of thousands of pairs.”

From its start, Altra has had its customer in mind. The shoes’ wide toe box and zero drop was designedto help correct runners’ strides and heal ailments associated with the sport. The brand’s healing focus ini-tially led it to connect with atypical retail accounts, specifi cally sports-medicine clinics.

“Because our shoes have the foot-shaped toe box and balance-level cushion-ing, doctors saw our shoe as a heal-ing platform, which was our idea in the fi rst place,” Harper recalled. “It started with them coming to us say-

Altra is making inroads with both runners and retailers, thanks to its unique look and feel. By Peter Verry

All In Stride

PH

OT

OS

: CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

BR

AN

D

Athletes hit the streetsin Altra sneakers

Altra’s Lone Peak 3.0 hiker

An Olympus 2.0style for women

47MARKETPLACEATHLETIC

The race is on this season as brands equip performance running sneakers with new cushioning compounds and

enhanced uppers.

Advanced Training

PH

OT

OS

: WA

RD

: AP

IMA

GE

S; S

HO

ES

: CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

BR

AN

DS

FALL TREND

Wave Sayonara 4 from Mizuno with plastic overlay stitching for enhanced fi t

Runner from Diadora with Duratech 5000 wear-proof compound

Karhu’s Strong 6 style with full-length Propel Foam fulcrum

Saucony’s Zealot ISO2 withEverun foam cushioning

New Balance’s Vazee Rush v2 featuring Rapid Rebound foam

Glycerin 14 with 3D Stretch Print upper from Brooks

48 Above: Saucony-sponsored runner Jared Ward earned a spot on Team USA at the Olympic Marathon Trials.MARKETPLACE ATHLETIC

To subscribe, go toFootwearNews.com

Or Call1.866.963.7335

Footwear News 2016 Editorial Calendar

ISSUE DATE SPACE CLOSE EDITORIAL FEATURE

MARCH

3/14 3/2 Must Buys Fall, Paris Runway Coverage Distribution: Children’s Club of NY

3/21 3/9 Made In America, Mens

3/28 3/16 Comfort

APRIL

4/4 3/21 Athletic, Los Angeles Times Distribution

4/11 3/30 Work Boot, Occupational Footwear, Outdoor, Material & Components

4/25 4/13 Synclaire Brands Milestone Women’s Fashion, Legwear

MAY

5/2 4/20 Under Armour Milestone, Best of Running

5/9 4/27 Made In Spain

5/16 5/4 Editorial Feature TBD

5/30 5/18 Pre–FFANY Show, Women In Power Distribution: FFANY

Footwear News is the premier destination for the footwear industry’s classified and career listings.

SMALL SPACE

Or Fax 212 779 7248Deadline: 2pm (ET) Wednesday prior to date of publication

BIGBUSINESS

Contact Shannon Fitzgerald at

323 617 9094 or [email protected]

FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 72, NO. 8. March 7, 2016. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in July, second week in December, third week in January and April, fourth week in May, September and December, fifth week in February, August and October) by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscription price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliver-able, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a sub-scription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail [email protected]. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

50

PH

OT

O: C

OU

RT

ES

Y O

F IN

ST

AG

RA

M

PickDamn PopularChris Brown gave a nod to viral sensation “Damn Daniel” last week by posting an Instagram photo with the creators’ trending catchphrase, “Back at it again with the white Vans.” In a series of Snapchats that have since exploded on social media, a California teen says “Damn, Daniel”repeatedly as he fi lms his friend in white Vans slip-ons. The video earned them an invite to “The Ellen Show,” where Daniel Lara received a lifetime supply of Vans.

Leading in Challenging TimesS

ATTEND: KIM MANCUSO, [email protected], 646.356.4722 SPONSOR: ALEXIS COYLE, [email protected], 646.356.4719

FAIRCHILDSUMMITSANNUALPARTNERS

EVENT SPONSORS

Robert ‘Cape’ CapenerK-SWISS GLOBAL BRANDS

Georgina ChapmanMARCHESA

Keren CraigMARCHESA

Pierre HardyPIERRE HARDY

Jim WeberBROOKS RUNNING COMPANY