vauxhall/opel omega service and repair manual -...

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Vauxhall/Opel OmegaService and Repair ManualMark Coombs and Spencer Drayton

Models covered

Vauxhall Omega Saloon and Estate models with petrol engines, including special/limited editions1998 cc, 2498 cc & 2969 cc petrol engines

Does not cover diesel engine or bi-fuel (LPG) models

(3510 - 352)

ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRST1 2 3

Haynes Publishing 1999

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmittedin any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, includingphotocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system,without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 850960 510 9

British Library Cataloguing in Publication DataA catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ

Haynes PublishingSparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes S.A.Tour Aurore - La Dfense 2, 18 Place des Reflets, 92975 PARIS LA DEFENSE Cedex France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska ABBox 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sverige


ContentsLIVING WITH YOUR VAUXHALL OMEGAIntroduction Page 04

Safety First! Page 05

Roadside RepairsIntroduction Page 06

If your car wont start Page 06

Jump starting Page 07

Wheel changing Page 08

Identifying leaks Page 09

Towing Page 09

Weekly ChecksIntroduction Page 010

Underbonnet check points Page 010

Engine oil level Page 011

Coolant level Page 011

Brake (and clutch) fluid level Page 012

Power steering fluid level Page 012

Battery Page 013

Electrical systems Page 013

Tyre condition and pressure Page 014

Tyre tread wear patterns Page 014

Washer fluid level Page 015

Wiper blades Page 015

Lubricants and fluids Page 016

Tyre pressures Page 017

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and ServicingServicing specifications Page 12

Maintenance schedule Page 13

Maintenance procedures Page 16


ContentsREPAIRS & OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems2.0 litre SOHC engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A1

2.0 litre DOHC engine in-car repair procedures Page 2B1

2.5 and 3.0 litre engine in-car repair procedures Page 2C1

General engine overhaul procedures Page 2D1

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 31

Fuel and exhaust systems Page 4A1

Emission control systems Page 4B1

Starting and charging systems Page 5A1

Ignition system Page 5B1

TransmissionClutch Page 61

Manual transmission Page 7A1

Automatic transmission Page 7B1

Final drive, driveshafts and propeller shaft Page 81

Brakes and SuspensionBraking system Page 91

Suspension and steering Page 101

Body equipmentBodywork and fittings Page 111

Body electrical system Page 121

Wiring Diagrams Page 1223

REFERENCEDimensions and weights Page REF1

Conversion Factors Page REF2

Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification Page REF3

General Repair Procedures Page REF4

Jacking and vehicle support Page REF5

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system precaution Page REF5

Tools and working facilities Page REF6

MOT Test Checks Page REF8

Fault Finding Page REF12

Glossary of Technical Terms Page REF20

Index Page REF24

04 Introduction


The Vauxhall Omega was introduced into the UK in April of 1994 as areplacement for the Vauxhall Carlton and Senator. At its launch, theOmega was available in both Saloon and Estate body styles with achoice of either 2.0 litre (1998 cc) or a 2.5 litre (2498 cc) petrol engineboth available with either a 5-speed manual transmission unit or a 4-speed automatic transmission unit. Shortly afterwards a 3.0 (2968 cc)litre petrol engine was also introduced. A 2.5 litre Diesel engine (notcovered in this manual) was also available. The petrol engines are allwell-proven units which are used in many other Vauxhall vehicles; theengine is mounted at the front of vehicle with the transmissionmounted on its rear.

Two versions of the four-cylinder 2.0 litre engine were used; lowspecification vehicles were fitted with a single overhead camshaft(SOHC) 8-valve engine were as all other vehicles were fitted with the

double overhead camshaft (DOHC) 16-valve engine often referred to asthe ECOTEC engine. The 2.5 and 3.0 litre engines are both V6, doubleoverhead camshaft (DOHC) units which are also often referred asECOTEC engines.

All models have fully-independent front and rear suspension and areequipped with front and rear disc brakes.

A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available withinthe range to suit most tastes, including central locking, electricwindows and an electric sunroof. An air conditioning system wasavailable as an option on certain models.

Provided that regular servicing is carried out in accordance with themanufacturers recommendations, the vehicle should prove reliableand very economical. The engine compartment is well-designed, andmost of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible.

Vauxhall Omega 2.0 16V SelectVauxhall Omega Estate CD

Your Vauxhall Omega manualThe aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your

vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what workmust be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). Itwill also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, andgive a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faultsoccur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling thework yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking thecar into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhapsmost important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs agarage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function ofthe various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasksare described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.

References to the left and right are in the sense of a person in thedrivers seat, facing forwards.

AcknowledgementsThanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the

illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Certain illustrations are thecopyright of Vauxhall Motors Limited, and are used with theirpermission. Thanks are also due to Draper Tools Limited, whoprovided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people atSparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in thismanual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and designchanges during the production run of a particular vehicle of whichthey do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authorsor publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, oromissions from, the information given.

The Vauxhall Omega Team

Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated andenthusiastic people working in close co-operation. Theteam responsible for the creation of this book included:

Authors Marc CoombsSpencer Drayton

Sub-editor Ian Barnes

Editor & Page Make-up Steve Churchill

Workshop manager Paul Buckland

Photo Scans Steve TanswellJohn Martin

Cover illustration & Line Art Roger Healing

Wiring diagrams Matthew Marke

We hope the book will help you to get the maximumenjoyment from your car. By carrying out routinemaintenance as described you will ensure your carsreliability and preserve its resale value.

Safety first! 05


Working on your car can be dangerous.This page shows just some of the potentialrisks and hazards, with the aim of creating asafety-conscious attitude.

General hazardsScalding Dont remove the radiator or expansiontank cap while the engine is hot. Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid orpower steering fluid may also be dangerouslyhot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning Beware of burns from the exhaust systemand from any part of the engine. Brake discsand drums can also be extremely hotimmediately after use.

Crushing When working under or neara raised vehicle,alwayssupplement thejack with axlestands, or usedrive-onramps.Neverventureunder a car whichis only supported by a jack. Take care if loosening or tightening high-torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.Initial loosening and final tightening should bedone with the wheels on the ground.

Fire Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour isexplosive. Dont let fuel spill onto a hot engine. Do not smoke or allow naked lights(including pilot lights) anywhere near avehicle being worked on. Also beware ofcreating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so dontwork on the fuel system with the vehicle overan inspection pit. Another cause of fire is an electricaloverload or short-circuit. Take care whenrepairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a typesuitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock Ignition HTvoltage can bedangerous,especially topeople with heartproblems or apacemaker. Dontwork on or near theignition system withthe engine running orthe ignition switched on.

Mains voltage is also dangerous. Makesure that any mains-operated equipment iscorrectly earthed. Mains power points shouldbe protected by a residual current device(RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication Exhaust fumes arepoisonous; they oftencontain carbonmonoxide, which israpidly fatal if inhaled.Never run theengine in aconfined spacesuch as a garagewith the doors shut. Fuel vapour is alsopoisonous, as are the vapours from somecleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances Avoid skin contact with battery acid andwith any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especiallyantifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Dieselfuel. Dont syphon them by mouth. If such asubstance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,seek medical advice. Prolonged contact with used engine oil cancause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use abarrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags inyour pocket. Air conditioning refrigerant forms apoisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame(including a cigarette). It can also cause skinburns on contact.

Asbestos Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaledor swallowed. Asbestos may be found ingaskets and in brake and clutch linings.When dealing with such components it issafest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazardsHydrofluoric acid This extremely corrosive acid is formedwhen certain types of synthetic rubber, foundin some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, areexposed to temperatures above 4000C. Therubber changes into a charred or stickysubstance containing the acid. Once formed,the acid remains dangerous for years. If itgets onto the skin, it may be necessary toamputate the limb concerned. When dealing with a vehicle which hassuffered a fire, or with components salvagedfrom such a vehicle, wear protective glovesand discard them after use.

The battery Batteries contain sulphuric acid, whichattacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take carewhen topping-up or carrying the battery. The hydrogen gas given off by the batteryis highly explosive. Never cause a spark orallow a naked light nearby. Be careful whenconnecting and disconnecting batterychargers or jump leads.

Air bags Air bags can cause injury if they go offaccidentally. Take care when removing thesteering wheel and/or facia. Special storageinstructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at veryhigh pressure. Take care when working onthe fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands,face or any other part of the bodyto injector spray; the fuel can

penetrate the skin with potentially fatalresults.

Remember...DO Do use eye protection when using powertools, and when working under the vehicle.

Do wear gloves or use barrier cream toprotect your hands when necessary.

Do get someone to check periodicallythat all is well when working alone on thevehicle.

Do keep loose clothing and long hair wellout of the way of moving mechanical parts.

Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, beforeworking on the vehicle especially theelectrical system.

Do ensure that any lifting or jackingequipment has a safe working load ratingadequate for the job.

DONT Dont attempt to lift a heavy componentwhich may be beyond your capability getassistance.

Dont rush to finish a job, or takeunverified short cuts.

Dont use ill-fitting tools which may slipand cause injury.

Dont leave tools or parts lying aroundwhere someone can trip over them. Mopup oil and fuel spills at once.

Dont allow children or pets to play in ornear a vehicle being worked on.

06 Roadside repairs


The following pages are intended to help in dealing withcommon roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will findmore detailed fault finding information at the back of themanual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car wont start and the starter motordoesnt turn

M If its a model with automatic transmission, make sure theselector is in P or N.

M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminalsare clean and tight.

M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If theheadlights go very dim when youre trying to start, thebattery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting(see next page) using a friends car.

If your car wont start even though the startermotor turns as normal

M Is there fuel in the tank?M Is there moisture on electrical components under the

bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obviousdampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosolproduct (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel systemelectrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connectorand HT leads.

Check the condition and security of thebattery connectionsA Check that the spark plug HT leads aresecurely connected by pushing them

onto the plugs (where accessible)B

Check that the spark plug HT leads aresecurely connected by pushing themonto the DIS module (where accessible)

C

Check that the engine managementsystem wiring connectors are securelyconnected

DCheck that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray themwith a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

Roadside repairs 07


Jump starting will get you outof trouble, but you must correctwhatever made the battery goflat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

1 The battery has been drained byrepeated attempts to start, or byleaving the lights on.

2 The charging system is not workingproperly (alternator drivebelt slackor broken, alternator wiring fault oralternator itself faulty).

3 The battery itself is at fault(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead tothe positive (+) terminal of the flatbattery

Connect the other end of the red lead tothe positive (+) terminal of the boosterbattery.

Connect one end of the black jump leadto the negative (-) terminal of the boosterbattery

Connect the other end of the black jumplead to a bolt or bracket on the engineblock, well away from the battery, on thevehicle to be started.

1 2 3

4

Make sure that the jump leads will notcome into contact with the fan, drive-belts or other moving parts of theengine.

5

Start the engine using the boosterbattery and run it at idle speed. Switchon the lights, rear window demister andheater blower motor, then disconnectthe jump leads in the reverse order ofconnection. Turn off the lights etc.

6

When jump-starting a car using abooster battery, observe the followingprecautions:

4 Before connecting the boosterbattery, make sure that the ignition isswitched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment(lights, heater, wipers, etc) isswitched off.

4 Take note of any special precautionsprinted on the battery case.

4 Make sure that the booster battery isthe same voltage as the dischargedone in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-startedfrom the battery in another vehicle,the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCHeach other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is inneutral (or PARK, in the case ofautomatic transmission).

Jump starting

08 Roadside repairs


Wheel changingSome of the details shown here will varyaccording to model.

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit byanother vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary ofpassing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted bythe job in hand.

PreparationM When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as

it is safe to do so.M Park on firm level ground, if possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic.M Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

M If you have one, use a warning triangle toalert other drivers of your presence.

M Apply the handbrake and engage first orreverse gear (or Park on models withautomatic transmission.

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite theone being removed a couple of largestones will do for this.

M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece ofwood to spread the load under the jack.

Changing the wheel

On Saloon models unclip the luggagecompartment left-hand trim panel thenrelease the retaining strap and remove

the spare wheel . . .

On Estate models lift up the luggagecompartment floor panel and remove thetools from the centre of the spare wheel.

Undo the retaining nut and remove the sparewheel . . .

. . . The tools and jack are stored in thesmaller compartment on the right-handside of the luggage compartment. Remove

the cover (where fitted) then unscrew the boltand remove the jack and wheelbrace.

1 2 3

. . . then unscrew the retaining bolt andremove the jack from behind the wheel.

On models with steel wheels, use theremoval tool supplied to pull off the wheeltrim and on models with alloy wheels, use

the tool supplied to unscrew the anti-theft boltand remove the hub cap. Slacken each wheelbolt by half a turn.

Unclip the access cover from the sill trimpanel then make sure the jack is locatedon firm ground and engage the jack head

correctly with the lifting point on the sill. Makesure that the lug on the jack head is correctlylocated in the sill seam cutout and the base ofthe jack is directly underneath the sill seam.

4 5

Raise the jack until the wheel is raisedclear of the ground. Unscrew the wheelbolts and remove the wheel. Fit the spare

wheel and screw on the bolts. Lightly tightenthe bolts with the wheelbrace then lower thevehicle to the ground.

Securely tighten the wheel bolts in adiagonal sequence then refit the hubcap/wheel trim (as applicable). Note that

the wheel bolts should be slackened andretightened to the specified torque at theearliest possible opportunity.

7 8

6

Finally...

M Remove the wheel chocks.

M Stow the punctured wheel, jack and toolsin the correct locations in the car.

M Check the tyre pressure on the wheel justfitted. If it is low, or if you dont have apressure gauge with you, drive slowly tothe nearest garage and inflate the tyre tothe right pressure.

M Have the damaged tyre or wheel repairedas soon as possible.

Roadside repairs 09


Puddles on the garage floor or drive, orobvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needsinvestigating. It can sometimes be difficult todecide where the leak is coming from,especially if the engine bay is very dirtyalready. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blownrearwards by the passage of air under the car,giving a false impression of where theproblem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oilsand fluids are poisonous. Washthem off skin, and change outof contaminated clothing,without delay.

Identifying leaksThe smell of a fluid leakingfrom the car may provide aclue to whats leaking. Somefluids are distictively coloured.

It may help to clean the car carefullyand to park it over some clean paperovernight as an aid to locating thesource of the leak.Remember that some leaks may onlyoccur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystallinedeposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at theinboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almostcertainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipeconnectors on the steering rack.

When all else fails, you may find yourselfhaving to get a tow home or of course youmay be helping somebody else. Long-distancerecovery should only be done by a garage orbreakdown service. For shorter distances, DIYtowing using another car is easy enough, butobserve the following points:

M Use a proper tow-rope they are notexpensive. The vehicle being towed mustdisplay an ON TOW sign in its rear window.M Always turn the ignition key to the onposition when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that thedirection indicator and brake lights will work.M Both front and rear towing eyes areprovided. They are located behind the accesscovers on the front and rear bumper.M Before being towed, release the handbrakeand select neutral on the transmission.M Note that greater-than-usual pedalpressure will be required to operate thebrakes, since the vacuum servo unit is onlyoperational with the engine running.M On models with power steering, greater-

than-usual steering effort will also be required.M The driver of the car being towed mustkeep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoidsnatching.M Make sure that both drivers know the routebefore setting off.M Only drive at moderate speeds and keepthe distance towed to a minimum. Drivesmoothly and allow plenty of time for slowingdown at junctions.M On models with automatic transmission,special precautions apply. If in doubt, do nottow, or transmission damage may result.

Towing

010 Weekly checks


There are some very simple checks whichneed only take a few minutes to carry out, butwhich could save you a lot of inconvenienceand expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skillor special tools, and the small amount of timethey take to perform could prove to be verywell spent, for example;

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition andpressures, will not only help to stop themwearing out prematurely, but could also saveyour life.

M Many breakdowns are caused by electricalproblems. Battery-related faults are particularlycommon, and a quick check on a regular basiswill often prevent the majority of these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, thefirst time you might know about it is whenyour brakes don't work properly. Checkingthe level regularly will give advance warning ofthis kind of problem.

M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the costof repairing any engine damage will be fargreater than fixing the leak, for example.

Introduction

2.0 litre DOHCengine

A Engine oil level dipstickB Engine oil filler capC Coolant expansion tankD Brake (and clutch) fluid

reservoir

E BatteryF Power steering fluid reservoir

Underbonnet check points

2.5 and 3.0 litre engine

A Engine oil level dipstickB Engine oil filler capC Coolant expansion tankD Brake (and clutch) fluid

reservoir

E BatteryF Power steering fluid reservoirG Screen washer fluid reservoir

Weekly checks 011


Engine oil levelBefore you start4 Make sure that your car is on level ground.4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,or at least 5 minutes after the engine has beenswitched off.

The correct oilModern engines place great demands on theiroil. It is very important that the correct oil foryour car is used (See Lubricants and fluidson page 016).

Car Carel If you have to add oil frequently, you shouldcheck whether you have any oil leaks. Placesome clean paper under the car overnight,and check for stains in the morning. If thereare no leaks, the engine may be burning oil(see Fault Finding).

l Always maintain the level between theupper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).If the level is too low severe engine damagemay occur. Oil seal failure may result if theengine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

If the oil is checkedimmediately after driving thevehicle, some of the oil willremain in the upper engine

components, resulting in an inaccuratereading on the dipstick!

The dipstick is located on the left-handside of the engine (see Underbonnetcheck points on page 010 for exact

location). Withdraw the dipstick.

Using a clean rag or paper towel removeall oil from the dipstick. Insert the cleandipstick into the tube as far as it will go,

then withdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of thedipstick, which should be between theupper (MAX) mark and lower (MIN) mark.

Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the levelfrom the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap. Rotatethe cap through a quarter-turn anti-clockwise and withdraw it. Top-up the

level. A funnel may help to reduce spillage.Add the oil slowly, checking the level on thedipstick often. Do not overfill.

1 2

3 4

Warning: DO NOT attempt toremove the expansion tankpressure cap when the engineis hot, as there is a very greatrisk of scalding. Do not leaveopen containers of coolantabout, as it is poisonous.

Car Carel With a sealed-type cooling system, addingcoolant should not be necessary on a regularbasis. If frequent topping-up is required, it islikely there is a leak. Check the radiator, allhoses and joint faces for signs of staining orwetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in thecooling system all year round, not just duringthe winter months. Dont top-up with wateralone, as the antifreeze will become toodiluted.

Coolant level

The coolant level varies with thetemperature of the engine. When theengine is cold, the coolant level should

be slightly above the KALT/COLD mark on theside of the tank. When the engine is hot, thelevel will rise.

If topping up is necessary, wait until theengine is cold. Slowly unscrew theexpansion tank cap, to release any

pressure present in the cooling system, andremove it.

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze tothe expansion tank until the coolant levelis slightly above the KALT/COLD mark

then securely refit the expansion tank cap.

1 2 3

012 Weekly checks


Brake and clutch* fluid level*On manual transmission models the brake fluid reservoir also supplies fluid to the clutch master cylinder.

Warning:l Brake fluid can harm youreyes and damage paintedsurfaces, so use extremecaution when handling andpouring it.l Do not use fluid that hasbeen standing open for sometime, as it absorbs moisturefrom the air, which can cause adangerous loss of brakingeffectiveness.

Safety First!l If the reservoir requires repeated topping-up this is an indication of a fluid leaksomewhere in the system, which should beinvestigated immediately.

l If a leak is suspected, the car should not bedriven until the braking system has beenchecked. Never take any risks where brakesare concerned.

Make sure that your car ison level ground. The fluid level in thereservoir will drop slightly as

the brake pads wear down, but the fluidlevel must never be allowed to dropbelow the MIN mark.

The upper (MAX) and lower (MIN) fluidlevel markings are on the side of thereservoir, which is located in the right-

hand rear corner of the engine compartment.The fluid level must always be kept inbetween these two marks.

1 If topping-up is necessary, first wipeclean the area around the filler cap toprevent dirt entering the hydraulic

system.

2 Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spillit onto the surrounding components. Useonly the specified fluid; mixing different

types can cause damage to the system. Aftertopping-up to the correct level, securely refitthe cap and wipe off any spilt fluid.

3

Power steering fluid levelBefore you start:4 Park the vehicle on level ground.4 Set the steering wheel straight-ahead.4 The engine should be turned off.

Safety First! l The need for frequent topping-up indicatesa leak, which should be investigatedimmediately.

For the check to beaccurate, the steering mustnot be turned once theengine has been stopped.

The power steering fluid reservoir islocated on the left-hand side of theengine compartment. Wipe clean the

reservoir before unscrewing and removing thecap.

1 Wipe clean the filler cap dipstick thenrefit the filler cap and remove it again.Note the fluid level on the dipstick.

2 When the engine is cold the fluid levelshould be up to the lower mark up thedipstick and when the engine is at

operating temperature it should be at theupper mark. Top up the fluid level using thespecified type of fluid (do not overfill) thensecurely refit the filler cap.

3

Weekly checks 013


BatteryCaution: Before carrying out any work on thevehicle battery, read the precautions given in"Safety first" at the start of this manual.4 Make sure that the battery tray is in goodcondition, and that the clamp is tight.Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and thebattery itself can be removed with a solutionof water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse allcleaned areas with water. Any metal partsdamaged by corrosion should be coveredwith a zinc-based primer, then painted.4 Periodically (approximately every threemonths), check the charge condition of thebattery as described in Chapter 5A.4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jumpstart your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

The battery is located at the front left-hand corner of the engine compartment.If necessary, unclip the fusible link

housing (where fitted) from side of the relaybox then open up the insulating cover to gainaccess to the battery.

1 The exterior of the battery should beinspected periodically for damage suchas a cracked case or cover. Check the

battery lead clamps for tightness to ensuregood electrical connections and check theleads for signs of damage.

2

Battery corrosion can be kept to aminimum by applying a layer ofpetroleum jelly to the clamps andterminals after they are reconnected.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) isevident, remove the cables from thebattery terminals, clean them with a small

wire brush, then refit them. Automotive storessell a tool for cleaning the battery post . . .

3 . . . as well as the battery cable clamps4

Electrical systems4 Check all external lights and the horn. Referto the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 fordetails if any of the circuits are found to beinoperative.

4 Visually check all accessible wiringconnectors, harnesses and retaining clips forsecurity, and for signs of chafing or damage.

If you need to check yourbrake lights and indicatorsunaided, back up to a wall orgarage door and operate the

lights. The reflected light should show ifthey are working properly.

If a single indicator light, stop-light orheadlight has failed, it is likely that a bulbhas blown and will need to be replaced.

Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stoplights have failed, it is possible that the switchhas failed (see Chapter 12, Section 4).

If more than one indicator light or tail lighthas failed it is likely that either a fuse hasblown or that there is a fault in the circuit

(see Chapter 12). Most fuses are located behindin the fusebox, behind the cover on the driversside of the facia; depress the locking button andremove the cover to gain access. Additionalfuses can be found in the engine compartmentrelay box and fusible link housing.

2 To replace a blown fuse, remove it, whereapplicable, using the plastic toolprovided. Fit a new fuse of the same

rating, available from car accessory shops. Itis important that you find the reason that thefuse blew (see Electrical fault finding inChapter 12).

31

014 Weekly checks


Tyre condition and pressureIt is very important that tyres are in goodcondition, and at the correct pressure - havinga tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous.Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harshbraking and acceleration, or fast cornering,will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As ageneral rule, the front tyres wear out fasterthan the rears. Interchanging the tyres fromfront to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result inmore even wear. However, if this iscompletely effective, you may have theexpense of replacing all four tyres at once!Remove any nails or stones embedded in thetread before they penetrate the tyre to causedeflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail sothat its point of penetration is marked. Thenimmediately change the wheel, and have thetyre repaired by a tyre dealer.Regularly check the tyres for damage in theform of cuts or bulges, especially in thesidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels,and clean any dirt or mud from the inside andoutside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims forsigns of rusting, corrosion or other damage.Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by"kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels mayalso become dented or buckled. A new wheelis very often the only way to overcome severedamage.

New tyres should be balanced when they arefitted, but it may become necessary to re-balance them as they wear, or if the balanceweights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, aswill the steering and suspension components.Wheel imbalance is normally signified byvibration, particularly at a certain speed(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration isfelt only through the steering, then it is likelythat just the front wheels need balancing. If,however, the vibration is felt through thewhole car, the rear wheels could be out ofbalance. Wheel balancing should be carriedout by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tread Depth - visual checkThe original tyres have tread wear safety

bands (B), which will appear when the treaddepth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. Theband positions are indicated by a triangularmark on the tyre sidewall (A).

1 Tread Depth - manual checkAlternatively, tread wear can be

monitored with a simple, inexpensive deviceknown as a tread depth indicator gauge.

2 Tyre Pressure CheckCheck the tyre pressures regularly with

the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyrepressures immediately after the vehicle hasbeen used, or an inaccurate setting will result.Tyre pressures are shown on page 017.

3

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)Under-inflation will cause overheating of thetyre, because the tyre will flex too much, andthe tread will not sit correctly on the roadsurface. This will cause a loss of grip andexcessive wear, not to mention the danger ofsudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.Check and adjust pressuresIncorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)Repair or renew suspension partsHard corneringReduce speed!

Centre Wear

OverinflationOver-inflation will cause rapid wear of thecentre part of the tyre tread, coupled withreduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger ofshock damage occurring in the tyre casing.Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your carstyres to the higher pressures specified formaximum load or sustained high speed, dontforget to reduce the pressures to normalafterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result ofwheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers andgarages can check and adjust the wheelalignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.Incorrect camber or castorRepair or renew suspension partsMalfunctioning suspensionRepair or renew suspension partsUnbalanced wheelBalance tyresIncorrect toe settingAdjust front wheel alignmentNote: The feathered edge of the tread whichtypifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Weekly checks 015


Wiper blades

Check the condition of the wiper blades;if they are cracked or show any signs ofdeterioration, or if the glass swept area is

smeared, renew them. Wiper blades shouldbe renewed annually.

1 To remove a windscreen wiper blade, pullthe arm fully away from the screen until itlocks. Swivel the blade through 90,

press the locking tab with your fingers andslide the blade out of the arms hooked end.

2

Screenwash additives not only keep thewinscreen clean during foul weather, they alsoprevent the washer system freezing in cold

weather - which is when you are likely to need itmost. Dont top up using plain water as thescreenwash will become too diluted, and will

freeze during cold weather. On no account usecoolant antifreeze in the washer system -this could discolour or damage paintwork.

Washer fluid level

When topping-up the reservoir, ascreenwash additive should be added inthe quantities recommended on the

bottle.

2The reservoir for the windscreen/tailgate/headlamps (as applicable) islocated at the front of vehicle. The fluid

level in the reservoir can be checked using thedipstick attached to the filler cap.

1

016 Lubricants and fluids


Lubricants and fluidsEngine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40 to 15W/50 to API

SG/CD or SH/CD(Duckhams QXR Premium Petrol Engine Oil or Duckhams Hypergrade Petrol Engine Oil)

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based antifreeze(Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer Coolant)

Manual transmission:Early (pre 1999) vehicles:

Up to number JP3097A01361659* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall transmission oil 19 40 704From number JP3097A01361659* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall transmission oil 19 40 764

Later (1999 onwards) vehicles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall transmission oil 19 40 768

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall transmission fluid 19 40 763 (Duckhams ATF Autotrans III)

Final drive unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 8 specifications

Braking and clutch system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid DOT 4(Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid)

Power steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall transmission fluid 19 40 700(Duckhams ATF Autotrans III)

*The identification number is stamped on the transmission housing. Note: There have been three different types of oil used in thetransmission by Vauxhall. The different types of oil should never be mixed, and it is essential that the transmission is refilled eitherwith the same type of oil as that drained, or the latest oil used in production from 1999 model year. If it is not known what type ofoil has been drained, the transmission unit should be flushed before filling with the latest specification oil. To do this, refer toChapter 7A, Section 2.

Engines need oil, not only to lubricate movingparts and minimise wear, but also to maximisepower output and to improve fuel economy.By introducing a simplified and improvedrange of engine oils, Duckhams has takenaway the confusion and made it easier for youto choose the right oil for your engine.

HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS

Beating frictionWithout oil, the moving surfaces inside yourengine will rub together, heat up and melt,quickly causing the engine to seize. Engine oilcreates a film which separates these movingparts, preventing wear and heat build-up.

Cooling hot-spotsTemperatures inside the engine can exceed1000 C. The engine oil circulates and acts asa coolant, transferring heat from the hot-spotsto the sump.

Cleaning the engine internallyGood quality engine oils clean the inside ofyour engine, collecting and dispersingcombustion deposits and controlling themuntil they are trapped by the oil filter or flushedout at oil change.

OIL CARE - FOLLOW THE CODETo handle and dispose of used engine oilsafely, always:

Avoid skin contactwith used engine oil.Repeated or prolongedcontact can be harmful. Dispose of used oiland empty packs in aresponsible manner in anauthorised disposal site.Call 0800 663366 to findthe one nearest to you.Never tip oil down drainsor onto the ground.

Choosing your engine oilDUCKHAMS ENGINE OILSFor the driver who demands a premiumquality oil for complete reassurance, werecommend synthetic formula DuckhamsQXR Premium Engine Oils.For the driver who requires a straight-forward quality engine oil, we recommendDuckhams Hypergrade Engine Oils.

For further information and advice, call theDuckhams UK Helpline on 0800 212988.

Tyre pressures 017


Tyre pressuresNote: Pressures apply to original-equipment tyres only and may vary if any other make or type of tyre is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer orsupplier for correct pressures if necessary.Note: Tyre pressures must always be checked with the tyres cold to ensure accuracy.

Saloon models

2.0 litre engine Front RearUp to 3 passengers (including driver) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.5 psi (2.0 bar) 28.5 psi (2.0 bar)Fully loaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 psi (2.5 bar) 42 psi (2.9 bar)

2.5 and 3.0 litre engineUp to 3 passengers (including driver) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.5 psi (2.2 bar) 31.5 psi (2.2 bar)Fully loaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 psi (2.5 bar) 42 psi (2.9 bar)

Estate models

2.0 litre engineUp to 3 passengers (including driver) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.5 psi (2.0 bar) 31.5 psi (2.2 bar)4 or 5 passengers (including driver) and 60 kg of luggage . . . . 33.0 psi (2.3 bar) 45.0 psi (3.1 bar)Fully loaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.0 psi (2.6 bar) 45.0 psi (3.1 bar)

2.5 and 3.0 litre engine195/65 R 15 tyres:

Up to 3 passengers (including driver) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.5 psi (2.2 bar) 34.0 psi (2.3 bar)4 or 5 passengers (including driver) and 60 kg of luggage . . . 34.0 psi (2.3 bar) 46.0 psi (3.2 bar)Fully loaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.0 psi (2.7 bar) 46.0 psi (3.2 bar)

205/65 R 15 and 225/55 R 15 tyres:Up to 3 passengers (including driver) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.5 psi (2.0 bar) 31.5 psi (2.2 bar)4 or 5 passengers (including driver) and 60 kg of luggage . . . 33.0 psi (2.3 bar) 45.0 psi (3.1 bar)Fully loaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.0 psi (2.6 bar) 45.0 psi (3.1 bar)

11

1


Chapter 1Routine maintenance and servicing

Air filter element - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Automatic transmission fluid - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25Automatic transmission fluid level - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Auxiliary drivebelt - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Bodywork/underbody corrosion protection - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Brake fluid - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Coolant - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Driveshaft gaiter condition - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Exhaust system - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Front and rear disc brakes - pad wear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Fuel filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Handbrake - shoe condition check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Handbrake operation - check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Headlight and auxiliary driving light beam alignment - check . . . . . . 12Lock and hinge lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Monitoring, lighting and signalling equipment - check . . . . . . . . . . . 4Pollen filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Regular maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Remote control keyfob battery - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Spark plugs - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Suspension and steering condition and operation - check . . . . . . . . 10Timing belt - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Underbonnet/underbody hose and fluid leak - check . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Wheel alignment - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Wheel bolt torque - check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

Lubricants and fluids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to end of Weekly checks on page 016

CapacitiesEngine oil

2.0 litre engine:SOHC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litresDOHC engine:

Engines with a one-piece sump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litresEngines with a two-piece sump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 litres

2.5 and 3.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.75 litresDifference between MIN and MAX on dipstick (all engines) . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 litre

Cooling system Manual transmission Automatic transmission2.0 litre engine:

SOHC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 litres 8.8 litresDOHC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.8 litres 8.6 litres

2.5 and 3.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.7 litres 9.5 litres

TransmissionManual transmission (approximate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 litresAutomatic transmission (approximate):

From dry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.4 litresAfter removing main sump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.4 litres

Final drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 litre**On models with limited-slip differential, observe the notes in Chapter 8 regarding the correct mixture of oil and additive to be used when refillingthe final drive unit.

Washer fluid reservoirWithout headlight washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 litresWith headlight washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.4 litres

Fuel tankAll models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 litres

EngineOil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion G102

Cooling systemAntifreeze mixture:

50% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protection down to -37C55% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protection down to -45C

Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.

Fuel systemAir filter element:

2.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U5952.5 and 3.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U601

Fuel filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L225

Ignition systemSpark plugs (gap not adjustable - see text) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC10DMC

BrakesFriction material minimum thickness:

Front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mm including backing plateRear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 mm including backing plateHandbrake shoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm excluding backing plate

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftAutomatic transmission fluid level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 24Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Sump drain plug:

2.0 litre SOHC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 412.0 litre DOHC engine:

Hex-head bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Torx-head bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

2.5 and 3.0 litre engine:Hex-head bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41Torx-head bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

12 Servicing specifications


The maintenance intervals in this manualare provided with the assumption that you,not the dealer, will be carrying out the work.These are the minimum maintenance intervalsrecommended by us for vehicles driven daily.If you wish to keep your vehicle in peakcondition at all times, you may wish to

perform some of these procedures moreoften. We encourage frequent maintenance,because it enhances the efficiency,performance and resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, usedto tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slowspeeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys,

more frequent maintenance intervals arerecommended.

When the vehicle is new, and/or still withinits warranty period, it should be serviced by afactory-authorised dealer service department,in order to preserve the factory warranty.

Maintenance schedule 13

1


Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months, whichever comes firstmm Engine oil and filter - renewal (Section 3)Note: Vauxhall recommend that the engine oil and filter are changedevery 10 000 miles or 12 months. However, oil and filter changes aregood for the engine and we recommend that the oil and filter arerenewed more frequently, especially if the vehicle is used on a lot ofshort journeys.

Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or 4 years, whichever comes firstCarry out all the operations listed for the 15,000 km/12 month and the30,000 km/2 year intervals, plus the following additional operations:mm Spark plugs - renewal (Section 22)*mm Fuel filter - renewal (Section 23)mm Timing belt - renewal (Section 24)**

* Note: On pre-1999 model year vehicles, renew the spark plugsevery 40 000 miles (60 000 km) regardless of the time elapsed.

**Note: Since the introduction of the Omega in 1994, Vauxhall havegradually increased the specified interval for timing belt renewal asfollows:

1994 model year vehicle,36 000 miles or 4 years, whichever comes first.

1995 and 1996 model year vehicles,40 000 miles or 4 years, whichever comes first.

1997 model year vehicles onwards,80 000 miles or 8 years, whichever comes first.

However, if the vehicle is used mainly for short journeys or a lot ofstop-start driving, or if the vehicles history is unknown, it isrecommended that the earlier (1994 model year) recommendation isadhered to. The actual belt renewal interval is very much up to theindividual owner but, bearing in mind that severe engine damage willresult if the belt breaks in use, we recommend you err on the side ofcaution.

Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or12 months, whichever comes firstmm Monitoring, lighting and signalling equipment -

check (Section 4)mm Front and rear brakes - pad and disc wear check

(Section 5)mm Auxiliary drivebelt condition and tension - check

and adjust (Section 6)*mm Underbonnet/underbody hose and fluid leak -

check (Section 7)* mm Bodywork/underbody corrosion protection - check

(Section 8)*mm Handbrake operation - check and adjustment

(Section 9)*mm Suspension and steering condition and operation -

check (Section 10)*mm Wheel bolt torque - check and adjustment

(Section 11)mm Headlight and auxiliary driving light beam

alignment - check (Section 12)*mm Road test (Section 13)mm Wheel alignment - check (Section 14)mm Exhaust system - check (Section 15)** Note: On vehicles covering a high mileage (more than 20 000miles/30 000 km annually) carry out the items marked with an asteriskat the 12 month interval; carry out the items not marked with anasterisk every 10 000 miles/15 000 km, regardless of elapsed time.

Every 70 000 miles (105 000 km) or7 years whichever comes firstmm Automatic transmission fluid - renewal (Section 25)*Note: This operation applies only to vehicles covering a high mileage(more than 20 000 miles/30 000 km annually)

Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 2 years, whichever comes firstCarry out all the operations listed for the 15,000 km/12 monthinterval, plus the following additional operations:mm Air filter element - renewal (Section 16)mm Pollen filter - renewal (Section 17)mm Lock and hinge lubrication (Section 18)mm Automatic transmission fluid level check (Section 19)mm Handbrake - shoe condition check (Section 20)mm Driveshaft gaiter condition - check (Section 21)

Every 2 years, regardless of mileagemm Brake fluid - renewal (Section 26)mm Remote control keyfob battery - renewal

(Section 27)mm Coolant - renewal (Section 28)

14 Maintenance - component location


Underbonnet view of a 2.0 litre DOHC engine model

1 Engine oil filler cap2 Air cleaner3 Front suspension strut

upper mounting4 Brake (and clutch) fluid

reservoir5 Relay box6 Cooling system expansion

tank7 Battery8 Fusible link housing9 Power steering pump10 Engine oil level dipstick11 Oil filter12 Alternator13 Airflow meter14 Throttle housing15 Power steering fluid

reservoir

Underbonnet view of a 2.5 litre engine model (3.0 litre engine similar)

1 Engine oil filler cap2 Power steering fluid

reservoir3 Front suspension strut

upper mounting4 Relay box5 Fusible link housing6 Engine oil level dipstick7 Battery8 Multi-ram air intake system

pre-volume chamber9 Airflow meter10 Air cleaner11 Cooling system expansion

tank12 Brake (and clutch) fluid

reservoir13 Exhaust gas recirculation

(EGR) valve14 Inlet manifold15 Idle speed adjuster valve

Maintenance - component location 15

1


Front underbody view (2.0 litre DOHC engine shown - others similar)

1 Exhaust front downpipe2 Oil filter3 Engine oil drain plug4 Air conditioning system

compressor5 Front suspension lower

arm6 Steering outer tie rod7 Steering drop arm8 Steering centre tie rod9 Steering idler10 Steering outer tie rod11 Manual transmission12 Oxygen sensor13 Transmission unit rear

mounting crossmember

Rear underbody view (2.0 litre DOHC engine shown - others similar)

1 Exhaust tailpipe2 Fuel tank3 Final drive unit4 Fuel filter5 Rear shock absorber6 Driveshaft7 Rear suspension tie rod8 Rear suspension lower

arm9 Propeller shaft10 Handbrake cable

1 General information

1 This Chapter is designed to help the homemechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,economy, long life and peak performance.2 The Chapter contains a mastermaintenance schedule, followed by Sectionsdealing specifically with each task in theschedule. Visual checks, adjustments,component renewal and other helpful itemsare included. Refer to the accompanyingillustrations of the engine compartment andthe underside of the vehicle for the locationsof the various components.3 Servicing your vehicle in accordance with themileage/time maintenance schedule and thefollowing Sections will provide a plannedmaintenance programme, which should resultin a long and reliable service life. This is acomprehensive plan, so maintaining someitems but not others at the specified serviceintervals, will not produce the same results.4 As you service your vehicle, you willdiscover that many of the procedures can -and should - be grouped together, because ofthe particular procedure being performed, orbecause of the proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. Forexample, if the vehicle is raised for any reason,the exhaust can be inspected at the same timeas the suspension and steering components.5 The first step in this maintenance pro-

gramme is to prepare yourself before the actualwork begins. Read through all the Sectionsrelevant to the work to be carried out, thenmake a list and gather all the parts and toolsrequired. If a problem is encountered, seekadvice from a parts specialist, or a dealerservice department.

2 Regular maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, theroutine maintenance schedule is followedclosely, and frequent checks are made of fluidlevels and high-wear items, as suggestedthroughout this manual, the engine will bekept in relatively good running condition, andthe need for additional work will be minimised.2 It is possible that there will be times whenthe engine is running poorly due to the lack ofregular maintenance. This is even more likelyif a used vehicle, which has not receivedregular and frequent maintenance checks, ispurchased. In such cases, additional workmay need to be carried out, outside of theregular maintenance intervals.3 If engine wear is suspected, a compressiontest (refer to Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C, asapplicable) will provide valuable informationregarding the overall performance of the maininternal components. Such a test can be usedas a basis to decide on the extent of the workto be carried out. If, for example, a

compression test indicates serious internalengine wear, conventional maintenance asdescribed in this Chapter will not greatlyimprove the performance of the engine, andmay prove a waste of time and money, unlessextensive overhaul work is carried out first.4 The following series of operations are thosemost often required to improve the perfor-mance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operationsa) Clean, inspect and test the battery (refer

to Weekly checks).b) Check all the engine-related fluids (refer

to Weekly checks).c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt (Section 6).d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 22).e) Check the condition of the air filter, and

renew if necessary (Section 16).f) Renew the fuel filter (Section 23).g) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leak.5 If the above operations do not prove fullyeffective, carry out the following secondaryoperations:

Secondary operationsAll items listed under Primary operations, plusthe following:a) Check the charging system (refer to

Chapter 5A). b) Check the ignition system (refer to

Chapter 5B).c) Check the fuel system (refer to Chapter 4A).

3 Engine oil and filter - renewal 2

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the mostimportant preventative maintenanceprocedures which can be undertaken by theDIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomesdiluted and contaminated, which leads topremature engine wear.2 Before starting this procedure, gathertogether all the necessary tools and materials.

Also make sure that you have plenty of cleanrags and newspapers handy, to mop up anyspills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm,as it will drain more easily, and more built-upsludge will be removed with it. Take care notto touch the exhaust or any other hot parts ofthe engine when working under the vehicle.To avoid any possibility of scalding, and toprotect yourself from possible skin irritantsand other harmful contaminants in usedengine oils, it is advisable to wear gloveswhen carrying out this work.3 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up thefront of the vehicle and support it on axlestands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support).Undo the retaining screws and remove theundercover from beneath the engine unit.4 Remove the oil filler cap.5 Using a spanner, or preferably a suitablesocket and bar, slacken the drain plug abouthalf a turn (see illustration). Position thedraining container under the drain plug, thenremove the plug completely (see HaynesHint).6 Allow some time for the oil to drain, notingthat it may be necessary to reposition thecontainer as the oil flow slows to a trickle.7 After all the oil has drained, wipe the drainplug and the sealing washer with a clean rag.

Examine the condition of the sealing washer,and renew it if it shows signs of scoring orother damage which may prevent an oil-tightseal. Clean the area around the drain plugopening, and refit the plug complete with thewasher and tighten it to the specified torque.8 Move the container into position under theoil filter. On 2.0 litre engines the filter islocated on the front end of the engine, where

16 Maintenance procedures

3.5 Removing the sump drain plug


Every 5000 miles or 6 months

As the drain plug releases from thethreads, move it quickly away so thatthe stream of oil running out of thesump goes into the container and notover your arm

it is screwed onto the oil pump housing, andon 2.5 and 3.0 litre engines it is screwed ontothe left-hand side of the cylinder block (seeillustration).9 Use an oil filter removal tool to slacken thefilter initially, then unscrew it by hand the restof the way. Empty the oil from the old filterinto the container.10 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt andsludge from the filter sealing area on theengine.11 Apply a light coating of clean engine oilto the sealing ring on the new filter, thenscrew the filter into position on the engine.Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do notuse any tools (see illustrations). If a genuinefilter is being fitted and the special oil filter

tool (Tool no. KM-726A - a socket which fitsover the end of the filter) is available, tightenthe filter to the specified torque.12 Refit the undercover, tightening itsretaining screws securely, then remove theold oil and all tools from under the vehiclebefore lowering the vehicle to the ground.13 Fill the engine through the filler hole, usingthe correct grade and type of oil (refer toWeekly Checks for details of topping-up).Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first,then wait a few minutes for the oil to drain intothe sump. Continue to add oil, a smallquantity at a time, until the level is up to thelower mark on the dipstick. Addingapproximately a further 1.0 litre will bring thelevel up to the upper mark on the dipstick.

14 Start the engine and run it for a fewminutes, while checking for leaks around theoil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Notethat there may be a delay of a few secondsbefore the low oil pressure warning light goesout when the engine is first started, as the oilcirculates through the new oil filter and theengine oil galleries before the pressure buildsup.15 Stop the engine, and wait a few minutesfor the oil to settle in the sump once more.With the new oil circulated and the filter nowcompletely full, recheck the level on thedipstick, and add more oil as necessary.16 Dispose of the used engine oil safely withreference to General repair procedures.

Every 5000 miles 17

1

3.8 Oil filter location - 2.0 litre engine 3.11a Lubricate the sealing ring of the newfilter with a smear of engine oil . . .

3.11b . . . then screw the filter on by handonly (2.5 litre engine shown)


4 Monitoring, lighting andsignalling equipment - check

11 Turn the ignition switch to the secondposition and check that the instrument panelCHECK lamp lights up and then extinguishesafter 4 approximately seconds. If the lampfails to extinguish, observe the faultdescription message(s) displayed and rectifythe cause.2 Start the engine and check that all tell-talesystem operation/fault lamps extinguish. Notethat some lamps (such as the automatictransmission sport programme, or tractioncontrol system lamps) may remain lit,depending on the driving mode selected;consult your drivers handbook for the exactmeaning of each lamp.3 Release handbrake, depress the brakepedal and check that the brake lights faultdisplay extinguishes. 4 Switch on all interior and exterior lights inturn and check their operation. Pay particularattention to the tail lamps, fog lamps, brakelamps, main and dipped beam headlamps,position lamps and front and rear directionindicators. Renew any blown bulbs withreference to Chapter 12.5 Finally, check the operation of the horn.

5 Front and rear brakes - pad and disc wear check 2

Front brakes1 Firmly apply the handbrake, select first gearor P, then jack up the front of the vehicle andsupport it securely on axle stands (seeJacking and Vehicle Support). Remove thefront roadwheels.2 For a quick check, the pad thickness can

be carried out via the inspection hole on thefront surface of each caliper (see illustration).Using a steel rule, measure the thickness ofeach pad lining, including the backing plate.This must not be less than that indicated inthe Specifications.3 The view through the caliper inspectionhole gives only a rough indication of thestate of the brake pads. For a comprehensivecheck, the brake pads should be removedand cleaned. The operation of the caliper canthen also be checked, and the condition of thebrake disc itself can be fully examined on bothsides. Chapter 9 contains a detaileddescription of how the brake discs should bechecked for wear and/or damage.4 If any pads friction material is worn to thespecified thickness or less, all four pads mustbe renewed as an axle set; for example - if thepads in the left hand caliper are found to beworn, those in the right hand caliper must alsobe renewed, regardless of their condition.Refer to Chapter 9 for details.5 On completion, refit the roadwheels andlower the vehicle to the ground.

Rear brakes6 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it securely onaxle stands (see Jacking and VehicleSupport). Remove the rear roadwheels.

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

5.2 The brake pad wear can be assessedby observing the thickness of the frictionmaterial, visible through the inspection

aperture at the front of the brake caliper

7 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 4inclusive, noting that the inspection apertureis at the rear of the caliper.8 On completion, refit the rear roadwheelsand lower the vehicle to the ground.

6 Auxiliary drivebelt - check and renewal 3

Check1 Although the drivebelt tension isautomatically adjusted by the spring-loadedtensioner, the belt itself should still beregularly checked for damage or deterioration.2 With the engine stopped, inspect the fulllength of the drivebelt for cracks andseparation of the belt plies. It will benecessary to turn the engine (using a spanneror socket and bar on the crankshaft pulleybolt) in order to move the belt from the pulleysso that the belt can be inspected thoroughly.Twist the belt between the pulleys so thatboth sides can be viewed. Also check forfraying, and glazing which gives the belt a

shiny appearance. Check the pulleys fornicks, cracks, distortion and corrosion.3 Check the position of the drivebelttensioner assembly arm in relation to thebackplate. On 2.0 litre engines the armindicator should be in between the stops onthe backplate and should be free to move. On2.5 and 3.0 litre engines the stop on thetensioner mounting plate should bepositioned between the lugs on the arm andthe arm should be free to move (seeillustrations).4 If the belt shows signs of wear or damage,or the tensioner arm is against the stop, thebelt must be renewed.

Renewal

2.0 litre engine5 Prior to removal make a note of the correctrouting of the belt around the various pulleys.If the belt is to be reused, also mark thedirection of rotation on the belt to ensure thebelt is refitted the same way around.6 Using a suitable spanner or socket fitted tothe tensioner pulley centre bolt, lever thetensioner away from the belt until there issufficient slack to enable the belt to beslipped off from the pulleys. Carefully releasethe tensioner pulley until it is against its stopthen remove the belt from the vehicle. Ifnecessary, the tensioner can be locked in thereleased position by aligning the arm hole withthe hole in the backplate and inserting asuitable tool/pin.7 Manoeuvre the belt into position, routing itcorrectly around the pulleys; if the original beltis being fitted use the marks made prior toremoval to ensure it is fitted the correct wayaround.8 Lever the tensioner roller back against isspring, and seat the belt on the pulleys.Ensure the belt is centrally located on allpulleys then slowly release the tensioner

pulley until the belt is correctly tensioned. Donot allow the tensioner to spring back andstress the belt.9 Check the tensioner arm is correctlypositioned in relation to the backplate (seeparagraph 3).

2.5 and 3.0 litre engine10 Remove the multi-ram air intake systempre-volume chamber and the secondary airinjection system front connecting pipe asdescribed in the relevant Parts of Chapter 4.11 Prior to removal make a note of thecorrect routing of the belt around the variouspulleys. If the belt is to be reused, also markthe direction of rotation on the belt to ensurethe belt is refitted the same way around.12 Using a suitable spanner or socket fittedto the tensioner pulley centre bolt, lever thetensioner away from the belt until there issufficient slack to enable the belt to beslipped off from the pulleys (see illustration).Carefully release the tensioner pulley until it isagainst its stop then remove the belt from thevehicle.13 Manoeuvre the belt into position, routing itcorrectly around the pulleys; if the original beltis being fitted use the marks made prior toremoval to ensure it is fitted the correct wayaround.14 Lever the tensioner roller back against isspring, and seat the belt on the pulleys.Ensure the belt is centrally located on allpulleys then slowly release the tensionerpulley until the belt is correctly tensioned. Donot allow the tensioner to spring back andstress the belt.15 Check the tensioner arm is correctlypositioned in relation to the backplate (seeparagraph 3) then refit the secondary airinjection system connecting pipe and themulti-ram air intake system pre-volumechamber as described in the relevant part ofChapter 4.

18 Every 10 000 miles

6.12 Lever the tensioner away from thebelt then slip the belt off from its pulleys

(2.5 litre engine shown)


6.3a On 2.0 litre engines check that the drivebelt tensioner armindicator (2) is correctly positioned between the stops (1 and 3) on

the backplate

6.3b On 2.5 and 3.0 litre engines ensure the stop (1) on thedrivebelt tensioner mounting plate is in between the lugs (2) on

the arm

7 Underbonnet/underbodyhose and fluid leak - check

2Cooling system

Warning: Refer to the safetyinformation given in Safety Firstand Chapter 3 before disturbing

any of the cooling system components.1 Carefully check the radiator and heatercoolant hoses along their entire length. Renewany hose which is cracked, swollen or whichshows signs of deterioration. Cracks will showup better if the hose is squeezed. Pay closeattention to the clips that secure the hoses tothe cooling system components. Hose clipsthat have been over-tightened can pinch andpuncture hoses, resulting in cooling systemleaks (see illustration).2 Inspect all the cooling system components(hoses, joint faces, etc) for leaks. Where anyproblems of this nature are found on systemcomponents, renew the component or gasketwith reference to Chapter 3.

Fuel systemWarning: Refer to the safetyinformation given in Safety Firstand Chapter 4A before disturbing

any of the fuel system components.3 Petrol leaks can be difficult to pinpoint,unless the leakage is significant and henceeasily visible. Fuel tends to evaporate quicklyonce it comes into contact with air, especiallyin a hot engine bay. Small drips can disappearbefore you get a chance to identify the pointof leakage. If you suspect that there is a fuelleak from the area of the engine bay, leave thevehicle overnight then start the engine fromcold, with the bonnet open. Metalcomponents tend to shrink when they arecold, and rubber seals and hoses tend toharden, so any leaks will be more apparentwhilst the engine is warming up from a coldstart.4 Check all fuel lines at their connections tothe fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator and fuelfilter (petrol models), Examine each rubberfuel hose along its length for splits or cracks.Check for leakage from the crimped jointsbetween rubber and metal fuel lines. Examinethe unions between the metal fuel lines andthe fuel filter housing. Also check the areaaround the fuel injectors for signs of O-ringleakage.5 To identify fuel leaks between the fuel tankand the engine bay, the vehicle should raisedand securely supported on axle stands.

Inspect the petrol tank and filler neck forpunctures, cracks and other damage. Theconnection between the filler neck and tank isespecially critical. Sometimes a rubber fillerneck or connecting hose will leak due to looseretaining clamps or deteriorated rubber.6 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metalfuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.Check for loose connections, deterioratedhoses, kinked lines, and other damage. Payparticular attention to the vent pipes andhoses, which often loop up around the fillerneck and can become blocked or kinked,making tank filling difficult. Follow the fuelsupply and return lines to the front of thevehicle, carefully inspecting them all the wayfor signs of damage or corrosion. Renewdamaged sections as necessary.

Engine oil7 Inspect the area around the camshaftcover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump jointfaces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time,some very slight seepage from these areas isto be expected - what you are really lookingfor is any indication of a serious leak causedby gasket failure. Engine oil seeping from thebase of the timing belt cover or thetransmission bellhousing may be an indicationof crankshaft or transmission input shaft oilseal failure. Should a leak be found, renew thefailed gasket or oil seal by referring to theappropriate Chapters in this manual.

Automatic transmission fluid8 Check the hoses leading to thetransmission fluid cooler for leakage. Look fordeterioration caused by corrosion anddamage from grounding, or debris thrown upfrom the road surface. Automatic transmissionfluid is a thin oil and is usually red in colour.Check the area around the propeller shaft sealat the rear of the transmission for signs of fluidleakage. Should a leak be found, check thefluid level as described in Section 19 thenrectify the cause of leakage as soon aspossible.

Power assisted steering (PAS)fluid9 Examine the hose running between the fluidreservoir and the power steering pump, andthe return hose running from the steering rackto the fluid reservoir. Also examine the highpressure supply hose between the pump andthe steering rack.10 Check the condition of each hosecarefully. Look for deterioration caused bycorrosion and damage from grounding, ordebris thrown up from the road surface.11 Pay particular attention to crimpedunions, and the area surrounding the hosesthat are secured with adjustable worm driveclips. Like automatic transmission fluid, PASfluid is a thin oil, and is usually red or lightbrown in colour.

Every 10 000 miles 19

1


7.1 Possible causes of coolant hose failure

A leak in the cooling systemwill usually manifest itself aswhite or rust-coloured,crusty deposits on the area

adjacent to the leak

Air conditioning refrigerantWarning: Refer to the safetyinformation given in Safety Firstand Chapter 3, regarding the

dangers of disturbing any of the airconditioning system components.12 The air conditioning system is filled with aliquid refrigerant, which is retained under highpressure. If the air conditioning system isopened and depressurised without the aid ofspecialised equipment, the refrigerant willimmediately turn into gas and escape into theatmosphere. If the liquid comes into contactwith your skin, it can cause severe frostbite. Inaddition, the refrigerant contains substanceswhich are environmentally damaging; for thisreason, it should not be allowed to escapeinto the atmosphere in an uncontrolledfashion.13 Any suspected air conditioning systemleaks should be immediately referred to aVauxhall dealer or air conditioning specialist.Leakage will be shown up as a steady drop inthe level of refrigerant in the system.14 Note that water may drip from thecondenser drain pipe, underneath the car,immediately after the air conditioning systemhas been in use. This is normal, and shouldnot be cause for concern.

Brake fluidWarning: Refer to the safetyinformation given in Safety Firstand Chapter 9, regarding the

dangers of handling brake fluid.15 Examine the area surrounding the brakepipe unions at the master cylinder for signs ofleakage. Check the area around the base offluid reservoir, for signs of leakage caused byseal failure. Also examine the brake pipeunions at the ABS hydraulic unit.16 If fluid loss is evident, but the leak cannotbe pinpointed in the engine bay, the brakecalipers and underbody brake lines should becarefully checked with the vehicle raised andsupported on axle stands (see illustration).Leakage of fluid from the braking system is aserious fault that must be rectifiedimmediately.17 Brake/clutch hydraulic fluid is a toxicsubstance with a watery consistency. Newfluid is almost colourless, but it becomesdarker with age and use.

Manual transmission fluid18 Check the area around the propeller shaftseal at the rear of the transmission for signs offluid leakage. Should a leak be found, checkthe transmission fluid level as described inChapter 7A then rectify the cause of leakageas soon as possible.

Final drive unit differential fluid 19 Check the area around the driveshaft andpropeller shaft seals, and the flange seal onthe rear of the final drive unit for signs of fluid

leakage. Should a leak be found, check thedifferential fluid level as described in Chapter 8then rectify the cause of leakage as soon aspossible.

Unidentified fluid leaks20 If there are signs that a fluid of somedescription is leaking from the vehicle, butyou cannot identify the type of fluid or itsexact origin, park the vehicle overnight andslide a large piece of card underneath it.Providing that the card is positioned inroughly the right location, even the smallestleak will show up on the card. Not only willthis help you to pinpoint the exact location ofthe leak, it should be easier to identify the fluidfrom its colour. Bear in mind, though, that theleak may only be occurring when the engine isrunning!

Vacuum hoses21 Although the braking system ishydraulically-operated, the brake servo unitamplifies the effort applied at the brake pedal,by making use of the vacuum in the inletmanifold, generated by the engine. Vacuum isported to the servo by means of a large-borehose. Any leaks that develop in this hose willreduce the effectiveness of the brakingsystem, and may affect the running of theengine.22 In addition, a number of the underbonnetcomponents, particularly the emission controlcomponents, are driven by vacuum suppliedfrom the inlet manifold via narrow-bore rubber

and plastic hoses. A leak in a vacuum hosemeans that air is being drawn into the hose(rather than escaping from it) and this makesleakage very difficult to detect. One method isto use an old length of vacuum hose as a kindof stethoscope - hold one end close to (butnot in!) your ear and use the other end toprobe the area around the suspected leak.When the end of the hose is directly over avacuum leak, a hissing sound will be heardclearly through the hose. Care must be takento avoid contacting hot or movingcomponents, as the engine must be running,when testing in this manner. Renew anyvacuum hoses that are found to be defective.

8 Bodywork/underbodycorrosion protection - check

51 This work should be carried out by aVauxhall/Opel dealer in order to validate thevehicle warranty. The work includes athorough inspection of the vehicle paintworkand underbody for damage and corrosion

9 Handbrake operation - check and adjustment 2

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it securely onaxle stands (see Jacking and VehicleSupport). Remove the rear roadwheels.2 Fully release the handbrake lever, thenapply it to the third notch. Check that bothrear wheels can still rotate by attempting toturn them by hand (ensure that thetransmission is in neutral). Release thehandbrake lever.3 Fully apply the handbrake lever, so that therear wheels are locked, counting how manynotches the lever passes through. If thehandbrake lever passes through more thanseven notches before the rear wheels lock,adjustment is required.4 If adjustment is necessary, first fully releasethe handbrake, then pull it up to the thirdnotch.5 Working underneath the vehicle, unbolt theexhaust system heat shields from thefloorpan. Locate the handbrake cableadjustment nut, at the cable compensationbar, above the propeller shaft. Fully slackenthe adjustment nut so that there is a smallamount of clearance between it and thecompensation bar (see illustration).6 Working on one brake disc at a time,position the hole in the disc over the serratedadjustment nut on the adjuster at the top ofthe backplate. Using a screwdriver insertedthrough the hole, turn the nut until the brakedisc locks, then turn the nut in oppositedirection until the disc is just free (seeillustration). Repeat the adjustment on theremaining rear brake.

110 Every 10 000 miles

7.16 Inspecting the flexible hoseconnection to a front brake caliper

9.5 Handbrake cable adjustment nut(arrowed)


7 Check that the handbrake lever is stillpositioned on the third notch, then workingunderneath the vehicle, tighten the handbrakecable adjustment nut against thecompensation bar, until the handbrake shoesjust start to take effect - test for this by turningthe brake discs by hand.8 Refit the rear wheels, then carry out a finalcheck of the handbrake adjustment; the rearwheels should turn freely with the leverapplied to the third notch and should be fullylocked before passing through the seventhnotch. Tighten the wheel bolts to the specifiedtorque then lower the car the ground. Checkthe operation of the handbrake before usingthe vehicle on the road.9 After fitting new handbrake shoes, theshoes should be bedded-in by driving a shortdistance (approximately 300 metres) at lowspeed with the handbrake lever lightlyapplied. Check, and if necessary adjust thehandbrake again after completing thebedding-in.

10 Suspension and steeringcondition and operation -check

2Front suspension and steeringcheck1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securelysupport it on axle stands (see Jacking andVehicle Support).2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust coversand the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters forsplits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear ofthese components will cause loss of lubricant,together with dirt and water entry, resulting inrapid deterioration of the balljoints or steeringgear.3 Check the power steering fluid hoses forchafing or deterioration, and the pipe andhose unions for fluid leaks. Also check forsigns of fluid leakage under pressure from thesteering gear rubber gaiters, which wouldindicate failed fluid seals within the steeringgear.4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 oclock and6 oclock positions, and try to rock it (seeillustration). Very slight free play may be felt,but if the movement is appreciable, furtherinvestigation is necessary to determine thesource. Continue rocking the wheel while anassistant depresses the footbrake. If themovement is now eliminated or significantlyreduced, it is likely that the hub bearings areat fault. If the free play is still evident with thefootbrake depressed, then there is wear in thesuspension joints or mountings.5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 oclock and 3oclock positions, and try to rock it as before.Any movement felt now may again be causedby wear in the hub bearings or the steeringtrack-rod balljoints. If the outer balljoint isworn, the visual movement will be obvious. Ifthe inner joint is suspect, it can be felt by

placing a hand over the rack-and-pinionrubber gaiter and gripping the track-rod. If thewheel is now rocked, movement will be felt atthe inner joint if wear has taken place.6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, checkfor wear in the suspension mounting bushesby levering between the relevant suspensioncomponent and its attachment point. Somemovement is to be expected, as themountings are made of rubber, but excessivewear should be obvious. Also check thecondition of any visible rubber bushes,looking for splits, cracks or contamination ofthe rubber.7 With the car standing on its wheels, have anassistant turn the steering wheel back-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn each way.There should be very little, if any, lostmovement between the steering wheel androadwheels. If this is not the case, closelyobserve the joints and mountings previouslydescribed. In addition, check the steeringcolumn universal joints for wear, and alsocheck the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.

Rear suspension check8 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support securely onaxle s

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