Velodyssey 5: Re and La Charente La Rochelle, Re Island to the Garonne Estuary

GPS data: Distance: 209km ; Avg speed: 16.1 km/h; Max speed:47.8 km/h; Elevation gain:

448m; Elevation loss: 453m; Max elevation:28m; Time: 12:59:30.

The coast of the Charente region is bordered by two large islands, Re and Oleron. The two

islands are accessible with a bridge and visiting at least one island is part of the adventure. To

reach the next destination, Royan we need to cross the Charente River and there are several

ways to do it. The velodyssey is here at its heart.

Day 11: (90km) Though La Rochelle is branded as the most bicycle friendly city in France it

cannot be verified as soon as you cycle more than a few kilometres. I finally find a way to reach

the bridge leading to Re Island, but the way is pretty grim between motorway, airport and

industrial harbour. The bridge is also very uninviting and mostly designed for fast cars but at

least it is free for bicycles. The contrast is great when reaching the

other side of the long bridge; there are several well designed cycle

tracks and many cyclists. It has to be said the cycle is not ideal as

the wind is blowing in the wrong direction and it makes it very

tough but flocks of tourists and families on bicycles do not seem to

mind. Most villages and houses have a ‘South’ feeling with white

walls, squares to relax, churches but some places are not very typical and littered with tourist

Les Sables

d’Olonne

La Rochelle Phare des

Baleines La Rochelle Charente transporter bridge Royan

shops. Loix-en-re is the nicest village with all the surrounding saltmarshes. Though they produce salt many marshes are now covered with purple and red

carpets of Salicornia and Limonium. Going back to La-Rochelle and next to the famous La-Rochelle towers is the only Ice-cream shop (would you believe it….)

not to mention the queue there. But it has to be said possibly the greatest choice I have never seen proposed in an ice cream shop.

(I had red-currants; basil and lime, grape-fruit.). Another

less famous sight in La-Rochelle is the End-of-The-World

Lighthouse which is a reproduction of the one described in

Jules Verne Novel and located in Tierra del Fuego. Tonight is

more luxurious as I am sleeping in my dad and his dog’s

camper van near les Minimes.

Day 12: (119km) Today I met Arnaud again, he caught up with me as I made a

detour to Re Island the day before. The beginning is well marked and on quiet

roads but mostly going along some kind of motorway until we reach Rochefort.

There I lost Arnaud again as it was his break time. There are several options to

cross the Charente River but I decided to take the unofficial one not agreeing with

the velodyssey. Without waiting and for 2 Euros I cross the river on one of the last

6 remaining transporter bridge in the world. This was all quite fun but because I

did not follow the velodyssey there are no more signs on the other side. Quickly

found the way thanks to the GPS, except that I went on the wrong side of the

canal de la Seudre. I soon need to scramble through bushes and long grasses to

get to the next bridge and join the velodyssey again. At Marennes I would advice

to use the Ferry instead of the bridge, this is very similar design to the Re island

one and not very pleasing. The rest of the journey goes through the pine forest

which from now on will become something very familiar; as well as the obligatory

afternoon swim (call it more like washing machine swim because of the huge waves). Royan has an impressive modern cathedral which is magnificent inside,

not many vegetarian options and some pretty expensive camp sites again.

To follow Velodyssey 6: Gironde