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MARCH 2, 2021 11 MILAN SPECIAL EDITION WWD rounds up the key fall 2021 accessories collection digitally presented at Milan Fashion Week. BY WWD STAFF Feminine and sexy designs were as key as bold and futuristic shapes in Milan, where accessories brands showed off their artisanal skills and creativity. Here, a roundup of the best accessories collections in town: Giuseppe Zanotti perceives a certain escapism in the air, which he tried to translate in his fall 2021 offering, striking a balance between more everyday options and the signature sensuality of high-heeled stilettos and wedged sandals. Chunky-soled penny loafers — including a flamboyant version covered in sparkly rhinestones — looked comfy, as did a capsule of slides and flat sandals crafted from upcycled mink sourced from vintage coats and accessories. Projecting a return to brighter times, with parties and cocktail receptions, Zanotti introduced a new wedged sandal in mirrored gold, silver and blue shades, as well as knee-high boots in wet-look vinyl. Il Bisonte has pledged to step up its sustainable efforts by using low-impact vegetable tans and supporting the network of artisans who work for the company within 18 miles of Florence. “An aesthetic commitment in the name of understatement and a conscious use of materials have always been our hallmark,” said Luigi Ceccon, the company’s chief executive officer. “These are our values which are still present today. We are proud of them and want to promote them around the globe.” Timelessness and high quality were the main pillars of the fall collection, filled with minimal bags suitable for multiple occasions, including the Mediterranean range of totes designed by brand founder Wanny di Filippo crafted from smooth leather or regenerated suede with a wavy motif on the top. The “New Nomad” bag from Il Bisonte fall 2021 collection. Sergio Rossi’s fall boots are inspired by an archival design from the late ‘90s. Feminine, edgy and sophisticated at the same time, the stretch Lycra boots feature a new round-toe shape. Further developing the signature SR1 shape, the brand is launching a leopard print for fall, seen on classic slingbacks, pumps and moccasins. The new Valextra Chiaroscuro collection, inspired by the 15th century art technique of the same name, interprets the brand’s classic designs in new versions where black is combined with natural tones emphasizing volumes and the label’s graphic aesthetic. In the new Chiaroscuro Iside, the hand- painted shiny black of the bag’s edges expands onto the leather in pergamena white, and new colors such as vanilla, camel and military green. The back of the bag is updated with a black pocket, which can store a phone, marked with the piece’s serial number, identifying the artisan who handcrafted the bag. The Chiaroscuro collection also introduces a new soft bucket, featuring a graphic motif on the shoulder strap. Car Shoe presented its latest collection via a fun video that takes into account the surging interest in chess in the wake of the Netflix hit series “The Queen’s Gambit.” The footwear specialist, part of the Prada Group, set its video to unveil the fall collection on a life-size chessboard filled with dancers wearing the brand’s latest creations. They included edgy boots crafted from stretch and patent leather, as well as chunky-soled sneakers. Furla introduced a new design for fall, the Portagioia bag, which in Italian has two meanings, a jewel case or something that brings joy — and the Bologna-based company underscored the joyful and imaginative trip customers could take by watching the video to present the collection. The curved, ladylike bag is available in glossy black patent leather with a matte calf leather flap and it has a metal push-stud fastening. In a see-now-buy-now activation, the Portagioia is available in a limited edition as a preview, exclusively at Furla’s flagship store near Milan’s Duomo, as well as globally on e-commerce. The Furla Villa line features a selection of crossbody bags with front flaps, with a striking new stud metallic square lock closure. The color palette ranges from pollen yellow to white cotton, but there is also a black maxi crocodile allover printed leather version. An entirely new line is Furla Vertigine’s mini-sized bucket bags in cognac, black or talc colors in textured calf leather that come with detachable and interchangeable drawstring pouches in black and white pied-de-poule fabric, or in black or silver quilted nylon fabric with a diamond design. Nicolò Beretta is known for his whimsical and pop-tinged footwear collection for his Giannico brand and for fall he did not disappoint. Delivering a concise collection of versatile FASHION Versatility and Elegance Define Accessories Collections A sneaker from the AGL fall 2021 collection Furla’s bag of the seasons, the Portagioia. The new Valextra bucket bag. Shimmering booties from the Giannico fall 2021 collection. A mirrored leather wedge sandal from the Giuseppe Zanotti fall 2021 collection.

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Page 1: Versatility and Elegance Define Accessories Collectionsvideos.prada.com/csr-video/NL63_Car Shoe.pdfby an archival design from the late ‘90s. Feminine, edgy and sophisticated at the

MARCH 2, 2021 11

MILAN SPECIAL EDITION

● WWD rounds up the key fall 2021 accessories collection digitally presented at Milan Fashion Week.

BY WWD STAFF

Feminine and sexy designs were as key as bold and futuristic shapes in Milan, where accessories brands showed off their artisanal skills and creativity. Here, a roundup of the best accessories collections in town:

Giuseppe Zanotti perceives a certain escapism in the air, which he tried to translate in his fall 2021 offering, striking a balance between more everyday options and the signature sensuality of high-heeled stilettos and wedged sandals. Chunky-soled penny loafers — including a flamboyant version covered in sparkly rhinestones — looked comfy, as did a capsule of slides and flat sandals crafted from upcycled mink sourced from vintage coats and accessories. Projecting a return to brighter times, with parties and cocktail receptions, Zanotti introduced a new wedged sandal in mirrored gold, silver and blue shades, as well as knee-high boots in wet-look vinyl.

Il Bisonte has pledged to step up its sustainable efforts by using low-impact vegetable tans and supporting the network of artisans who work for the company within 18 miles of Florence.

“An aesthetic commitment in the name of understatement and a conscious use of materials have always been our hallmark,” said Luigi Ceccon, the company’s chief executive officer. “These are our values which are still present today. We are proud of them and want to promote them around the globe.” Timelessness and high quality were the main pillars of the fall collection, filled with minimal bags suitable for multiple occasions, including the Mediterranean range of totes designed by brand founder Wanny di Filippo crafted from smooth leather or regenerated suede with a wavy motif on the top.

The “New Nomad” bag from Il Bisonte fall 2021 collection.

Sergio Rossi’s fall boots are inspired by an archival design from the late ‘90s. Feminine, edgy and sophisticated at the same time, the stretch Lycra boots feature a new round-toe shape. Further developing the signature SR1 shape, the brand is launching a leopard print for fall, seen on classic slingbacks, pumps and moccasins.

The new Valextra Chiaroscuro collection, inspired by the 15th century art technique of the same name, interprets the brand’s classic designs in new versions where black is combined with natural tones emphasizing volumes and the label’s graphic aesthetic.

In the new Chiaroscuro Iside, the hand-painted shiny black of the bag’s edges

expands onto the leather in pergamena white, and new colors such as vanilla, camel and military green. The back of the bag is updated with a black pocket, which can store a phone, marked with the piece’s serial number, identifying the artisan who handcrafted the bag.

The Chiaroscuro collection also introduces a new soft bucket, featuring a graphic motif on the shoulder strap.

Car Shoe presented its latest collection via a fun video that takes into account the surging interest in chess in the wake of the Netflix hit series “The Queen’s Gambit.” The footwear specialist, part of the Prada Group, set its video to unveil the fall collection on a life-size chessboard filled with dancers wearing the brand’s latest creations. They included edgy boots crafted from stretch and patent leather, as well as chunky-soled sneakers.

Furla introduced a new design for fall, the Portagioia bag, which in Italian has two meanings, a jewel case or something that brings joy — and the Bologna-based company underscored the joyful and imaginative trip customers could take by watching the video to present the collection. The curved, ladylike bag is available in glossy black patent leather with a matte calf leather flap and it has a metal push-stud fastening. In a see-now-buy-now activation, the Portagioia is available in a

limited edition as a preview, exclusively at Furla’s flagship store near Milan’s Duomo, as well as globally on e-commerce.

The Furla Villa line features a selection of crossbody bags with front flaps, with a striking new stud metallic square lock closure. The color palette ranges from pollen yellow to white cotton, but there is also a black maxi crocodile allover printed leather version.

An entirely new line is Furla Vertigine’s mini-sized bucket bags in cognac, black or talc colors in textured calf leather that come with detachable and interchangeable drawstring pouches in black and white pied-de-poule fabric, or in black or silver quilted nylon fabric with a diamond design.

Nicolò Beretta is known for his whimsical and pop-tinged footwear collection for his Giannico brand and for fall he did not disappoint. Delivering a concise collection of versatile

FASHION

Versatility and Elegance Define Accessories Collections

A sneaker from the AGL fall 2021 collection

Furla’s bag of the seasons, the Portagioia.

The new Valextra bucket bag.

Shimmering booties from the Giannico fall 2021 collection.

A mirrored leather wedge sandal from the Giuseppe Zanotti fall 2021 collection.

valentina.mercante
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valentina.mercante
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Page 2: Versatility and Elegance Define Accessories Collectionsvideos.prada.com/csr-video/NL63_Car Shoe.pdfby an archival design from the late ‘90s. Feminine, edgy and sophisticated at the

12 MARCH 2, 2021

MILAN SPECIAL EDITION

styles that can help women easily transition their look from day to night, he offered sparkling materials, as in a pointy-toe pump crafted from mirrored leather embossed with a python pattern that showed a sensual crisscross exalting the shoe’s low-cut silhouette. The same material was used for the new Victoria bootie, which features a tubular flared structure. Beretta also introduced his first chunky-soled sneaker style embellished with straps to wrap around the ankle.

Like many brands this season, Serapian paid homage to Milan and its neighborhoods by inviting some of the city’s key personalities including Marina Visconti di Modrone, Luna Bonaccorsi and Derek Castiglioni, to appear in a range of portraits. The company continued to highlight its signature Mosaico handwoven pattern, which appeared on a chic brown hobo bag with no hardware and spiced up a soft pouch with drawstrings that can be worn cross body or hand-held. The latter featured stripes in saturated nuances combined with black. By partnering with design firm Azucena, the company turned its hand to a modern rendition of the signature Catilina chair first introduced in the ‘50s by designer Luigi Caccia Dominioni.

Storied Italian hatmaker Borsalino continues to expand its offering by reissuing each season the company’s carryovers with unconventional details thrown into the mix or adding more playful styles. For its fall presentation, the brand asked a group of Milan-based stylish women to appear in a video in which they are seen strolling around the city wearing

cow-printed bucket hats; classic fedoras with floral or Op art-inspired patterns decorating the ribbon, and crafty top hats tied together with a leather patch.

For fall, Pollini took a deep dive in its archives to revisit classic bi-colored boots as well as chunky-heeled, squared-toed options wrapped with leather straps and fastened with golden buckles. These also appeared on a reinterpretation of the brand’s classic Daytona moccasin, as well as on bags and belts matching the footwear’s sophisticated palette of mustard, orange, red, burgundy and black. Sculptural heels and Art Nouveau-like laser-cut motifs elevated the daily styles with a charming arty accent.

In the Fratelli Rossetti video, three girls were seen jumping on beds at home: on their feet, the brand’s signature loafers, whose soft and comfortable shape and thin soles work for indoor occasions just as much as outdoors. For fall, the signature style was revisited with double-fringe motifs and oversize tassels.

Rodo’s signature weave was revisited for fall in new materials such as calfskin with shearling. The storied accessories brand also presented animal patterns on pony skin for the daytime bags or embellished with sequins for the evening. Satin and lace blended on a clutch bag and satin was also delicately pleated and completely covered with Swarovski crystals on the Giza bag. The Knot sandal, available both in the flat version or on comfortable and mirrored heels, points to the craft of the Rodo artisans.

Paciotti kept it classy and feminine for its fall collection, developing mid-heeled slingback pointy styles crafted from glossy leather or reinterpreting moccasins for a cage-like kitten heel pump adding a dash of eccentricity to a footwear staple. Trendy combat boots with chunky soles and subdued cowboy boots completed the offering.

At René Caovilla, the sensual, ankle-wrapping motif of the brand’s signature Cleo sandal was transferred in an everyday biker boot style bearing a snake-shaped embellishment covered with rhinestones. For nighttime, a sock boot matching the precious motif with high heels bedecked with crystals was added

to the lineup of staple evening sandals and slingback options.

Footwear label AGL, guided by sisters Sara, Vera and Mari Giusti, presented their fall collection through a video, filmed at London’s Tate Modern, and starring three dancers, including actress Nikkita Chadha. The arty vibe of the digital showcase influenced the spirit of the collection: While a pair of slouchy leather heeled boots telegraphed a message of sophisticated elegance, laced-up patent leather styles and a pair of patchwork sneakers featured chunky yet lightweight soles for a cool, urban vibe.

For his second capsule collection for the Santoni brand, footwear designer Andrea Renieri continued to leverage the Italian company’s high-end manufacturing techniques to deliver a lineup rooted in chic femininity. Playing with draping, he created a pair of sophisticated soft leather booties in a honey tone, while an elegant knot defined a red slingback style. For a glamorous touch, the designer conceived sandals and mules featuring a sensual wave motif of rhinestones. ■

René Caovilla fall 2021 collection. A slingback from

the Giannico fall 2021 collection.

Paciotti fall 2021 collection.

A Rodo design for fall 2021

A Serapian handwoven tote bag from the fall 2021 collection.

The “New Nomad” bag from Il Bisonte fall 2021 collection.

A still from the Fratelli Rossetti video.

Pollini fall 2021 collection.

A boot from the Car Shoe fall 2021 collection.

A leopard printed hat from the Borsalino fall 2021 collection.

valentina.mercante
Highlight
Page 3: Versatility and Elegance Define Accessories Collectionsvideos.prada.com/csr-video/NL63_Car Shoe.pdfby an archival design from the late ‘90s. Feminine, edgy and sophisticated at the

CollezioniCar shoegiocaagli scacchiCon il cortometraggioPlayers, Carshoesvela lanuovacollezione uomo e

donnaper l'autunno- in-verno 2021/22, ispirata algioco degli scacchi.Tra imodelli proposti dal mar-chio del gruppo Pradaspiccano snekaersmo-

noblocco womene men,

insieme

amo-cassini

e clas-

siche

allac-ciate

bicolo-re consuo-

le flessibili. All'universofemminile sono dedica-

ti i boots in nappastreche naplak nelle varian-ti biancoenero, mentreper le proposte uomomocassinie stivali inpellenera o testa mo-

ro anticata,che strizzanol'occhio a un gusto stre-etwear. La collezione,così come l'ambientazio-

ne del corto interpretatadal talentodelgruppo digiovani danzatoriche simuovonocome pedinesulla scacchiera,trasmet-te la dinamicitàdi ognicalzaturaproposta,(ripro-duzione riservata)

Sara Rezk

Tutti i diritti riservati

PAESE : Italia

PAGINE : 12

SUPERFICIE : 7 %

AUTORE : Sara Rezk

2 marzo 2021

Page 4: Versatility and Elegance Define Accessories Collectionsvideos.prada.com/csr-video/NL63_Car Shoe.pdfby an archival design from the late ‘90s. Feminine, edgy and sophisticated at the

La tendenza

Passidi danzasugliscacchiCosìCarShoedettail ritmo

Sul web un corto-metraggio d’arteper presentarelacollezioneCar Shoeper l’inverno 2021:

Players. Un’ambientazioneispirataalgiocodegliscacchi.Quadri bianchi e neri su cuisi esibisconogiovani balleri-ni. Ballerini eballerine, chesiintrecciano nell’esibizioneindossandoi modelli di scar-pe che saranno vincenti ilprossimo inverno. Il ritmo èdato dalla musica e i movi-menti sono sinuosi come siaddice allanuova generazio-ne cheha grandevoglia diesibirsiin mezzoal suogrup-po dopounannodi fermo. Lesneakersmonoblocco e fles-

sibili, mocassini morbidissi-mi a suolaalta estivali avvol-genti neri o testadi moro percompletare.

© RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA

Ai piedi Uno deimodelli della

collezioneinverno 2021 di Car Shoe

Tutti i diritti riservati

PAESE : Italia

PAGINE : 39

SUPERFICIE : 5 %

PERIODICITÀ : Quotidiano

DIFFUSIONE : (785000)

AUTORE : N.D.

28 febbraio 2021

Page 5: Versatility and Elegance Define Accessories Collectionsvideos.prada.com/csr-video/NL63_Car Shoe.pdfby an archival design from the late ‘90s. Feminine, edgy and sophisticated at the

Lacamiciapiùnuovaè imbottitaStondatae in versionegiaccaèla tendenzadelprossimoinverno.Colori: vinceil bianco

La fusionetra comfort esartorialità raccontauno stile di vita im-prontato alla qualità.

Da Eleventy il cappottodou-ble senzacuciture è in lana14

microne mezzo, leggerissi-

mo. La camicia imbottita estondataversionegiacca è ilpezzodi tendenzadell autun-

no inverno2021/22.A render-la specialesonoi dettagli sul-la taschein camoscio.I panta-

loni sono dinamici, ancheconi «polsini»sul fondo. I ca-

pi nei tonidel panna,del ver-

de, del mosto e del miele —«la versionepiù dolce e fem-

minile del cammello» dicePaolo Zuntini, cofondatoredelbrand e direttore creativodonna—raccontanounasto-

ria fattadi artigianalità, ma-nualità edeccellenzadel Ma-

de in Italy.Lamaglie riscopro-no le lavorazioni del passato

comepuntia trecciae giochidi costeinglesi e invitanoaprendersidelle pause,adas-

saporare il profumo del tem-

po liberoanchequandosi po-trà tornarealla vita normale.Sonoaccoglientie facilicome«un abbraccio in movimen-to »le magliein lanapettinataemisto cashmeredi MartinoMidali il designerchevesteledonne senzapensarealla ta-

glia, le alpachee i mohairdeicapispallasonotinti in filo inlunghezzeevolumi diversi.

Lo spirito degli Anni Ses-santa rivivedaMila Schön:ilgiacchinobluconpantaloni avitaaltaampidi alpaca,i tubi-

ni velociconpannelli coloraticome i quadridi AlexanderCalderche ispiravanola stili-sta elo chemisieralpolpacciobiancoche si conferma il co-lore dell’inverno prossimo.LastilistaHui(Zhou Zhao)conlasua associazione cineseso-stiene l’artigianato italianod’eccellenzainsiemecon lafondazionemilanese Cologni

dei mestieri d’arte. La colle-zione èil fruttodi unmix tracultureorientali e occidentali,la maglia strutturatain lanaela gonna ricamatain seta,ilcammelloei colori acidi: sal-

via, bosco,ginepro, rosso.

L’ispirazionecampagna,il gu-sto British nellaversioneMa-

de in Italy,si ritrova anchene-

gli accessori.Pollini ripropo-ne lo storico stivalecavaliere.Il classicomocassinoDaytonasi arricchiscedi un morsettocon doppiafibbia mentre i

cinturini avvolgonogli stivalicontaccosvasato.

I FratelliRossetticonduco-

no la donnadolcementefuoridal lockdown con slipper co-

mode come pantofole.Il mo-cassino Brerae lanuova fran-cesina dallalinea sfilata sive-

stono di motivi delicati.Le in-cisioni e il colore applicatoamanosulla pelle con la tecni-

ca Toledonefanno pezziqua-

si unici.Agl presentaSisterhood,il

risultato forte e coloratodellesorelleGiusti ( Sara, Vera eMari) chedisegnanoaseima-

ni la collezione e portano

avanti fiere la tradizionedelnonnoPiero, fondatoredel-l azienda. I mocassinibluelet-

trico, le sneakerbombateatinte forti.

Car shoecon un video chehaper scenarioil gioco degliscacchiaffida a giovani dan-zatori chesi muovonosinuosii nuovi stivaletti bianchi e lecalzature improntate al dina-mismo gentile.

Milano èloscenarioperfet-

to di questanuova eleganzasobria masempreconun toc-

co sorprendentee giocosoche domina alle presentazio-

ni in streaming,con appunta-menti precedutidaautocerti-

ficazioni e provadella tempe-

ratura. Il fotografo Guido Ta-roni nehafatto il setperfettoper presentareborse(giallo,rosso,mosto).In primo pianospiccal’intreccio mosaico,la-

vorazione frutto dellacreativi-

tà edell’essereprofondamen-te milanese.

M. T.V.© RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA

EleganzaÈ sobria,masempreconqualcosadisorprendentee digiocoso

EleventyIl cappottodoublesenzacucitureè in lana14micron emezzo,leggerissimo

Tutti i diritti riservati

PAESE : Italia

PAGINE : 35

SUPERFICIE : 37 %

PERIODICITÀ : Quotidiano

DIFFUSIONE : (265289)

AUTORE : M. T. V.

27 febbraio 2021

Page 6: Versatility and Elegance Define Accessories Collectionsvideos.prada.com/csr-video/NL63_Car Shoe.pdfby an archival design from the late ‘90s. Feminine, edgy and sophisticated at the

Tutti i diritti riservati

PAESE : Italia

PAGINE : 35

SUPERFICIE : 37 %

PERIODICITÀ : Quotidiano

DIFFUSIONE : (265289)

AUTORE : M. T. V.

27 febbraio 2021

Page 7: Versatility and Elegance Define Accessories Collectionsvideos.prada.com/csr-video/NL63_Car Shoe.pdfby an archival design from the late ‘90s. Feminine, edgy and sophisticated at the

Le sfilatedi Milano

Cristalliericamiil romanticismo

di GiorgioArmaniMentremolti designerseguonola viadellapraticità, lo stilistapresentaunacollezionescintillanteeottimista:“Ho pensatoal desideriodi bellezzae divertimentodi questomomento”

di SerenaTibaldi

SalvatoreFerragamoriprendel’esteticafuturibile di film

di fantascienzacome“Gattaca”e “Matrix”.Sportmaxsi ispiraagli archetipifemminili,dalle statuegrecheaGraceJonese AnnieLennoxGiorgio Armani nonè maistatounnostalgico: lafedeltàallasuaesteti-

ca nongli hamai impeditodi riela-

borarla e aggiornarla continua-mente. Lo dimostra,ancora unavolta, la collezionedonnaper ilprossimo autunno/inverno, pre-

sentata ieri assiemeall’uomo: èin-

confondibilmente Armani, maof-fre una visione del marchiodiver-sa. Più adattaal presente.«L’annotrascorsoha influenzato il modoin cui ho immaginatoentrambelelinee,ma si ètrattatopiù di sensa-

zioni ed emozioni», spiega lo stili-

sta. «Vivendo confinati in casa,

nonabbiamoavutobisogno di ve-

stirci in modo particolare,o ele-

gante. Ho cercatoquindi di tradur-

re il desideriodi divertirsi con lamoda,ehopensatocheunoscintil-

lio e un tocco di romanticismoavrebberoaiutato». Il risultato èuna delle sue collezioni più gla-

mour escintillanti,coni codici del-la suasera– i ricami, le ruches,leapplicazionidi jais e le paillettes–infiltratisi nel daywear. «Vorreisuggerirealle donne di osare, econcedersitocchi femminili an-che conun completo». Perlo stili-sta si può esi deverischiare. An-che constrasse cristalli. «Volevooffrire unmodopersentirsibelleeuniche brillando, con misura, in

Tutti i diritti riservati

PAESE : Italia

PAGINE : 24;25

SUPERFICIE : 166 %

PERIODICITÀ : Quotidiano

AUTORE : Serena Tibaldi

28 febbraio 2021

Page 8: Versatility and Elegance Define Accessories Collectionsvideos.prada.com/csr-video/NL63_Car Shoe.pdfby an archival design from the late ‘90s. Feminine, edgy and sophisticated at the

manoa unaltro si avrebbeunaca-

valcata tra gli eccessidell’epoca,ma lui haideediverse,eil risultatoèessenzialema nonpunitivo,nel-la suaausterità.Nonèper tutti,maviene dadirechelui vesteledon-ne intelligenti.

Da Philosophy, LorenzoSerafiniripensaalle suevacanze- studio inInghilterra, e a quantovenerassequell’universo: i college, ledivise,gli stemmiecosìvia. Da lì a trasfor-

mare il mix didecori araldici, stam-

pe emotivi tartanin un linguaggioappetibileper i GenZper lui èunattimo. Cheloro comprendanocer-

ti riferimenti,è secondario.ElenaMirò puntaasdoganarsidalladefi-

nizione di “ brand curvy”, e il pri-mo passolo hacompiutoarruolan-

do Alessandro Dell’Acqua perunacollaborazione: il risultatoèmoltosensuale,e addossoalla top LaraStone(cheaonor del veroè formo-sa, non curvy), fa lasuafigura.

©RIPRODUZIONERISERVATA

Pensieropositivo

anchedaErmannoScervino:

le lavorazioni

preziosesonoapplicate

agli abitidagiorno,come

unauguriodi tempimigliori

ogni occasione.È unaconcessionealbisogno di bellezzadioggi».

AncheSalvatoreFerragamononhamai smessodi creare,tantocheil numerodellesueinvenzioni(lezeppe,i tacchi aspillo, i sandaliaeffettonudo) restaimbattuto.«Eraun pioniere,e credoche il modomigliore percelebrarlosiaproiet-

tarsi nel futuro, come facevalui»,dice il direttorecreativoPaul An-

drew. La collezione prendespuntodall’esteticafuturibile di film difantascienzacome Gattacae Ma-

trix (Andrew è un fandelgenere).Quell’immaginario lo si ritrovaneivestiti,tra il minimalismo e il tecni-co, enelloshowdigitale, ambienta-

to su unanavespaziale,tra alieniargentati,uniformidai toni acidiesilhouettescarne.Targetdichiara-

to ipiù giovani,chedovrebberoap-

prezzare pure l’aspetto sostenibi-le: il pvc è biodegradabile,e il le-

gno dellescarpearriva daalberiab-

battuti dalleintemperie.Le musedel direttorecreativo

di SportmaxGraziaMalagoli attra-

versano la storia: ci sonolestatuegrechee ClaudeCahun,artista eattivistagenderantelitteramall i-

nizio delsecoloscorso,e poiGraceJones, Annie Lennox, SineadO’Connor. Creatureforti, einfattila collezione, come ci si aspetta,gioca molto sull’androginia, e suformeche lei chiama“totemiche”.Silhouettestrutturate, spalle lar-

ghe, lunghezzetirate all’estremo.Anche i vestiti svasati anniVentis’ingigantiscono, diventandoabitidaballo voluminosi ma leggeri, incontinuo movimento. ErmannoDaelli eToni Scervinoparagonanol’anno trascorsoall’ 11 settembre2001: ancheallorail mondopiom-bò nellapaura,mapoituttoèripar-

tito. Cosìsaràanchestavolta,ragio-

nano i due,e la collezione di Er-

manno Scervinoèpensataperrico-minciare, in un modoo nell’altro.Scomparsi gli abiti dasera,ora lelavorazioni più preziosesi ritrova-

no, comedaArmani, sulle miseda

giorno: il pizzo èabbinatoai pullo-ver norvegesi,i piumini oversizeal-

le sottovesti impalpabili, mentrela maglieria, ricopertadi cristalli,fa da pontetra lo stiledacasae iltappetorosso. In attesadi tempimigliori.

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cis daEleonoraAbbagnato, ripren-de il lato più “ morbido” del mar-chio fondatodallamadreLaura, eproponepezziche «sostituisconogli abbraccimancati» . L’idea diuna modaconsolatoria,applicataalle maglie, ai cappotti- vestaglia ealle tuniche,funziona.Daniele Cal-caterra hafattopropriolostiledel-la milanese degli anniOttanta.In

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