vida-care universal suncreen blends – the secret to overcoming formulation challenges when adding...

HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE

Vida-Care Universal Sunscreen Blends: The secret to adding UV protection to cosmetic products

Mandeesh Suman

Technical and Sales Manager

28th September 2016


• UK company, etablished in 1960

• Family business, remains privately owned

• Manufacturing in UK,Far East & US

• Owns IPR with R&D programs globally

• Annualised Sales Turnover: USD 50 million

Lambson History and Business


Sun Protection – Why is it important?

Source: Canadean’s global consumer survey, 2014


Sun Protection Trends and Influences


Sun Protection

Suncare benefits are now widespread across the beauty and personal care categories

Source: Canadean’s Product Launch Analytics; Clinique website


What are the formulation challenges when adding UV protection to cosmetic products?

• Broad-spectrum protection

• Photo-stability

• Global regulatory challenges

• Solubility of sunscreens in formulations

• Interactions with ingredients

• Skin-feel

• Rheological considerations

• Media comments

• Ease of use

• Cost effectiveness


Vida-Care SP Blends (USB’s)• Sunscreen systems

• Lambson’s unique Universal Sunscreen Blends (USB): ready made and easy to formulate systems:

– Offer formulation flexibility

– Can be used in a wide range of formulations

– USB-25: Easily achieve up to SPF 25 in body care

– USB-30F: Better suited to facial care. Free-from EHMC (Vida-Care SP1) and BP-3 (Vida-Care SP3)

– USB-50+ : For High SPF systems, easily formulated into creams, lotions, sprays etc., with no requirement for pre-dispersion or heating, photostable, and high efficiency


INCI name: Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Benzophenone-3, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate; Ethylhexyl Salicylate, C 12-13 Alkyl Lactate (Globally Approved)

Physical Properties:Appearance: Pale yellow liquidSpecific Gravity (25°C) 1.068 g/mlRefractive Index (25°C) 1.550Colour (Gardner) 3-4

Inclusion level In-vitro SPF range UVA PF range c range UVA Permitted

6 6-10 4.5-6.5 371-376 Yes

10 10-15 7.5-11.2 372-378 Yes

15 15-20 11.3-13.5 373-379 Yes

20 20-25 14.2-15.9 374-380 Yes

25 23-30 17.2-19.8 376-381 Yes

Vida-Care USB 25 – Globally approved


Phase Ingredient INCI Name % w/w Supplier

A Deionised water Disodium EDTA Vida-Care Carbomer CG Glycerin

Aqua Disodium EDTA Carbomer Glycerin

65.45 0.05 0.50 3.00

Lambson Ltd

B Dermol 816 Vida-Care USB 25 Vida-Care AVP 20 Sabowax FL 65K Sabowax ST-21 Cetearyl Alcohol 65% Preserve 430

Ethylhexyl Palmitate Octocrylene (&) Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl methane (&) Benzophenone-3 (&) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (&) Ethylhexyl VP/Eicosene Copolymer Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Steareth-21 Cetearyl Alcohol Phenoxyethanol (&) Methylparaben (&) Ethylparaben (&) Propylparaben (&) Butylparaben

5.00 15.00 1.00 2.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

Also/Lehvoss Lambson Ltd Lambson Ltd Kemcare Kemcare A & E Connock Kemcare

C AMP Ultrapure 2000 Deionised water

Aminomethylpropanol Aqua

0.50 0.50

Angus/Banner

D Vida-Caps 1021 Vida-Caps 1022 Vida-Caps 1039 Vida-Caps 1001

Vida-Caps custom made, please contact your Lambson representative for full details. Capsule wall: Chitosan (vegetal) & Acacia gum Internal phase: Various

1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

Lambson Ltd Lambson Ltd Lambson Ltd Lambson Ltd

Total 100.00

Rainbow Release Water Resistant sun cream SPF 15+ UVA


INCI Name: Octocrylene; Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane; Ethylhexyl Triazone; Homosalate; Diethylhexyl MalateFree-from Cinnamate and Benzophenone it is suitable for facial skin-care at use levels up to 30%

Physical Properties:Appearance: Pale yellow liquidSpecific Gravity (25°C) 1.041 g/mlRefractive Index (25°C) 1.542Colour (Gardner) 3-4

Vida-Care USB 30F

Inclusion level In-vitro SPF UVA PF c range UVA Permitted

6 6 4.5 371-376 Yes

10 10 7.5 372-378 Yes

15 15 10 373-379 Yes

20 20 15 374-380 Yes

25 25 18 376-381 Yes

30 30 22 376-381 Yes



A Deionised water Glycerin Na2 EDTA Vida-Care Carbomer CG

Aqua Glycerin Disodium EDTA Carbomer

54.45 3.00 0.05 0.50

Lambson Ltd

B Ceraphyl 368 Vida-Care AVP-20 Vida-Care USB 30F Sabowax FL 65K Sabowax ST-21 Cetearyl Alcohol Preserve 430

Ethylhexyl Palmitate VP/Eicosene Copolymer Diethylhexyl Malate (&) Octocrylene (&) Homosalate (&) Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl methane (&) Ethylhexyl Triazone Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Steareth-21 Cetearyl Alcohol Phenoxyethanol (&) Methylparaben (&) Ethylparaben (&) Propylparaben (&) Butylparaben

5.00 1.00 30.00 2.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

ASI Lambson Ltd Lambson Ltd Kemcare Kemcare A & E Connock Kemcare

C AMP Ultra PC 2000 Deionised water

Aminomethylpropanol Aqua

0.50 0.50

DOW Chemicals

Total 100.00

Simple SPF 30 Cream with UVA protection


Vida-Care USB 50+INCI Name: Diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexylbenzoate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Diisopropyl Adipate

Exceptionally photostable blend provides the full range of SPF values permitted in EU while maintaining the UVA absorbance required to claim broad-spectrum protection

Physical Properties:Appearance: Viscous yellow liquidSpecific Gravity (25°C) 1.040 g/mlRefractive Index (25°C) 1.550Colour (Gardner) <8

Most effective when used in emulsions, in anhydrous formulations use of polar solvents is strongly recommended to maintain critical wavelength.Typically SPF = ½ of the dose rate (e.g. 10% addition = SPF 20) but this is highly dependant on other formulation ingredients.



A Ethanol Dermol CL Dermol DOM Propylene Glycol Vida-Care USB 50+ Vida-Care C VA37E

Alcohol Denat Cetyl Lactate Diethylhexyl Malate Propylene Glycol Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (&) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (&) Octocrylene (&) Ethylhexyl Triazone (&) Di-C12-C13 Alkyl Malate (&) Ethylhexyl Salicylate (&)Diisopropyl Adipate VP/VA Copolymer

35.00 7.00 10.00 5.00 35.00 8.00

Alzo Alzo Lambson Ltd Lambson Ltd

Total 100.00

Scalp Protection & Styling Spray 50+


Vida-Care Sunscreen Blends (USB’s) –Applications

Formats available USB 25 USB 30F USB 50+

Tanning Oil

Cream

Lotion

Sprayable lotion

Anhydrous Stick

Clear Spray/mist

Beauty Balms

Colour Cosmetics


Vida-Care Sunscreen Blends (USB’s) –Global Use Limits

Maximum Permitted Use level

Trade Name INCI declaration EU USA Australia Mercosur Japan ASEAN

Vida-Care USB 25

Octocrylene (&) Butyl

Methoxydibenzoylmethane, (&)

Benzophenone-3 (&) Ethylhexyl

Methoxycinnamate (&) Ethylhexyl Salicylate

(&) C12-13 Alkyl Lactate

25% 15% 25% 25% 25% 25%

Vida-Care USB 30F

Diethylhexyl Malate (&) Octocrylene (&)

Homosalate (&) Butyl

Methoxydibenzoylmethane (&) Ethylhexyl

Triazone

30% N/A 30% 30% 37.5% 30%

Vida-Care USB 50+

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl

Benzoate (&) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

(&) Octocrylene (&) Ethylhexyl Triazone (&)

Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate (&) Ethylhexyl

Salicylate (&) Diisopropyl Adipate

38% N/A 38% 38% 38% 38%


Advantages of using Vida-Care USB’s Easy to formulate with

Taking the guesswork out for SPF

Stable liquid formulations that can be formulated directly into a variety of creams, lotions and sprays

Reduces the requirements for each product to have a specifically designed blend of actives.

Ready‐to‐go sunscreen formulations

Provides SPF benefits to daily use cosmetic formulations, such as moisturizers, lipsticks and foundations.

Saves bench time in formulations

Saves quantity time through reduced intake testing

Saves production time through fewer addition steps

Reduced need for premixing, heating and/or cooling; and number of raw materials


The Lambson AdvantageAccess to high calibre teams with vast industry expertise

Highly adaptable and flexible approach

Innovative problem solving

New product development

Formulation solutions including efficacy testing and claims support

Custom encapsulation

Consultancy services

UK Headquarters: Clifford House, York Road, Wetherby, West Yorkshire, LS22 7NS

Tel: +44 (0) 1937 840162 Fax: +44 (0)1937 840151

Personal Care Division and Encapsulation Technologies: 6 Mead Lane, Farnham, Surrey, GU9 7DY

Tel: +44 (0) 1252 739760 Fax: +44 (0)1252 739769

www.lambson.com

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