Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern

Thailand

Phillip TangTim Bewer, Greg Bloom, Austin Bush, Nick Ray, Richard Waters,

China Williams

NorthernThailand

p401

Cambodiap178

Laosp288

Vietnamp48

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to the Mekong Region . . . . . . . . . 4Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thailand Map . . . . . . . . . . 6Vietnam , Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thailand Top 20 . . . . . . . . 8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 18If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 20Month by Month . . . . . . . 23Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Outdoor Adventures . . . . 34Travel with Children . . . . 43Countries at a Glance . . . 45

VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . 48Hanoi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49Ninh Binh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69Tam Coc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70Cuc Phuong National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 70Halong Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Halong City . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72Cat Ba Island . . . . . . . . . . . 73Haiphong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77Ba Be National Park . . . . . 78Mai Chau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Lao Cai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Bac Ha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Sapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81Dien Bien Phu . . . . . . . . . . . 85Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park . . . . . . 87Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89Around Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Danang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102Hoi An . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Around Hoi An . . . . . . . . . 114Cham Islands . . . . . . . . . . 114Quy Nhon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Mui Ne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Con Dao Islands . . . . . . . . 126Dalat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Cat Tien National Park . . . 133Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) . . . . . . . . . 134Dai Nam Theme Park . . . 151Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Cu Chi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Mekong Delta . . . . . . . . 152Bac Lieu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152My Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Ben Tre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153

Vinh Long . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Can Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Chau Doc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Ha Tien . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Rach Gia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Phu Quoc Island . . . . . . . . 157Understand Vietnam . . . 162Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 168

CAMBODIA . . . . . . . .178Phnom Penh . . . . . . . . . 179Kirirom National Park . . . 201Phnom Chisor . . . . . . . . . .203Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre . . .203Tonlé Bati . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Udong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Siem Reap . . . . . . . . . . . 204Ang Trapeng Thmor Reserve . . . . . . . . . 216Floating Village of Chong Kneas . . . . . . . . 216Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217Temples of Angkor . . . . 218Angkor Wat . . . . . . . . . . . . 218Angkor Thom . . . . . . . . . . 219Further Afield . . . . . . . . . . 226Banteay Chhmar . . . . . . . 227Battambang . . . . . . . . . . . 228Around Battambang . . . . 235Prasat Preah Vihear Province . . . . . . . . 236Kompong Thom . . . . . . . . 237Kompong Cham & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239Kratie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241Stung Treng . . . . . . . . . . . . 243Mondulkiri Province . . . . . 245Ratanakiri Province . . . . . 247

PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

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BANTEAY SREI (P226), ANGKOR, CAMBODIA

Contents

Koh Kong City . . . . . . . . . . 251Koh Kong Conservation Corridor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254Sihanoukville . . . . . . . . . . . 255The Southern Islands . . . 263Kampot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Around Kampot . . . . . . . . 270Kep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271Understand Cambodia . 275Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 280

LAOS . . . . . . . . . . . . 288Vientiane . . . . . . . . . . . . 289Phu Khao Khuay National Protected Area (NPA) . . .304Ang Nam Ngum . . . . . . . .308Vang Vieng . . . . . . . . . . . . .309Luang Prabang . . . . . . . 315Pak Ou Caves . . . . . . . . . . 327Tat Kuang Si . . . . . . . . . . . 327Tat Sae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328Xieng Khuang & Hua Phan Provinces . . . 328Muang Ngoi District . . . . . 336Northwestern Laos . . . . .340Phongsali Province . . . . . 347Middle Mekong . . . . . . . . .350Bolikhamsai & Khammuan Provinces . . . 355Savannakhet Province . . . 363Champasak Province . . . .368Pakse Region . . . . . . . . . . 378Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) . . . . . . 379Bolaven Plateau Region . . 385Understand Laos . . . . . 388Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 393

NORTHERN THAILAND . . . . . . . . 401Bangkok . . . . . . . . . . . . .404Ko Samet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436Trat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .439Ko Chang . . . . . . . . . . . . . .442Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447Around Nakhon Ratchasima . . . . . . . . . . . .450Khao Yai National Park . . .450Phanom Rung & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451Ubon Ratchathani . . . . . . .452Mukdahan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455Nakhon Phanom . . . . . . . . 456Nong Khai . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458Nong Khai to Loei . . . . . . . 461Loei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .462Chiang Khan . . . . . . . . . . .463Chiang Mai . . . . . . . . . . . .465Chiang Dao . . . . . . . . . . . . 477Tha Ton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 478Pai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 479Sukhothai . . . . . . . . . . . . .482Chiang Rai . . . . . . . . . . . . .486Golden Triangle . . . . . . . . .490Chiang Khong . . . . . . . . . . 493Nan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .494Understand Thailand . . . 497Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 502

The Mekong Region Today . . . . . . . . . 510History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512People & Culture . . . . . 527

Border Crossings . . . . . 536Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 539Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 548Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 552Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 557Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 567Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 575

SURVIVAL GUIDE

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURES

Hue’s Imperial Enclosure 3D Illustration . . . . . . . . 92

Temples of Angkor 3D Illustration . . . . . . . 220Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace 3D Illustration . . . . . . . 406Wat Pho 3D Illustration . . . . . . . 408

Plan Your Trip

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Hainan

MYANMAR(BURMA)

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PHNOMPENH

Ho ChiMinh City(Saigon)

Mui Ne

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Itineraries

The Classic

Traverse the fertile belly of the region, taking in the Mekong’s metropolises and its most iconic sight, Angkor Wat.

Like many Southeast Asian journeys, yours begins in Bangkok. Acclimatise with the sights, sounds, smells and divine culinary flavours of the City of Angels before flying or taking a bus to Siem Reap, gateway to the incredible temples of Angkor.

See the mother of all temples, Angkor Wat, the world’s largest religious building; the Bayon, with its enigmatic faces; and jungle-clad Ta Prohm. In the wet season,

the boat trip from Siem Reap to colonial-flavoured Battambang is not to be missed. From Battambang continue south by bus to experience the contrasts of Phnom Penh, then make your way to Ho Chi Minh City by bus or boat via Chau Doc and the Mekong Delta.

Now you’re ready for some beach time. Take a bus to Mui Ne or Nha Trang on the South China Sea, then fly north to Hanoi – or meander overland via the historical hubs of Hoi An and Hue if you have time. Wind up with some sea-kayaking or a boat cruise among the karsts in Halong Bay.

2 WEEKS

26 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Halong Bay (p71), Vietnam

PLAN YO

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PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

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This itinerary takes you from northern Thailand to Halong Bay, Vietnam, via the rugged and thrilling northern route. Traversing the Mekong’s highest mountains, you’ll get up close and personal with colourful hill tribes and have a range of outdoor adventures at your disposal.

Start in Chiang Mai, where every activity known to athletes – mountain biking, kayaking, abseiling, trekking, ziplining – has a following. Take the winding road to Pai, a mountain retreat that proves the hippie trail is alive and well. Then head on to Tha Ton, the entry point for boat trips down to Chiang Rai, itself a good base for responsible trekking. Cross into Laos and check out the Gibbon Experience at Bokeo Nature Reserve before continuing east to Luang Nam-tha for trekking, cycling, or rafting in and around the Nam Ha National Protected Area (NPA).

Head south to beautiful Luang Prabang on the banks of the Mekong to soak up the culture, before boomeranging north once more to explore the karst-laden wonderland of the Nam Ou (Ou River) on a boat ride or kayak trip out of Nong Khiaw. From here an adventurous overland trail runs east to Vietnam via Vieng Xai and the Pathet Lao caves, a sort of Cu Chi Tunnels cast in stone. Once over the border in Mai Chau, try the northwest loop through Dien Bien Phu to experience incredible scenery and some of the country’s most dramatic mountain passes.

Sapa, an old French hill station, is the gate-way to the minority communities of this region. Consider a side trip to Bac Ha, home to the colourful Flower Hmong folk and great walking country. Head south to Hanoi, where you’ll ap-preciate that you bought your ethnic souvenirs directly from the minority people and not in the designer boutiques of the Old Quarter.

Still haven’t had your fill of adventure? Set off for Halong Bay. Take to the waters of Lan Ha Bay by local boat to see the ‘new’ Halong Bay without the tourists. Boating, kayaking and Robinson Crusoe–style camping are pos-sible here, and there are some beautiful hidden coves. Then leave the water behind and head to the spectacular limestone outcrops of Cat Ba Island. Experienced craggers will find challeng-ing routes here, and there’s instruction avail-able for novice climbers as well.

4 WEEKS Highland Adventure

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Top: Rafting, Chiang Mai (p465), Thailand Bottom: Hmong woman and child, Bac Ha (p80), Vietnam

29PLAN

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This trip follows the famous river downstream from northern Laos all the way to its terminus in Vietnam’s Mekong Delta. En route you’ll encounter a wide range of landscapes, cultures and adventures as you slice through all four countries of the Mekong region.

Leave behind the bustle of Bangkok and make a beeline for Chiang Rai near the Golden Triangle, where the borders of Laos, Myanmar (Burma) and Thailand converge. Crossing the Mekong into Laos at Huay Xai is like stepping back in time. Take a slowboat down the Me-kong to Luang Prabang, stopping overnight in Pak Beng. Soak up the magic before leaving the river for some relaxation in Vang Vieng.

Continue to Vientiane and reunite with the mighty waterway. The Lao capital is a sleepy place with some great cafes, restaurants and bars – which you won’t be encountering for a while after here. Board a bus and follow the river southeast, stopping off in Tha Khaek and Savannakhet before arriving in Pakse. Visit the imposing Khmer sanctuary of Wat Phu Champasak, in the shadow of Linga-parvata Mountain; explore the waterfalls and villages of the Bolaven Plateau; or enjoy the laid-back islands of Si Phan Don.

Cross into Cambodia. If you missed the Ir-rawaddy dolphins near Don Khon in Si Phan Don, you can see them near the border at Preah Rumkel, or a few hours further south in the laid-back Mekong riverside town of Kratie. From Kratie, consider peeling off to visit the mountains of Mondulkiri Province, home to elephants, hill tribes and pristine nature.

Weeks in rural provinces will have you happy to see Phnom Penh, where the Mekong merges with another vital regional waterway, the Tonlé Sap. Take a sunset boat cruise or participate in an aerobics session on the riverfront prom-enade. When you’re recharged, board a fast boat downstream to Chau Doc, Vietnam, gateway to the Mekong Delta. Check out Can Tho, the delta’s commercial heart. Hotfoot it to Ho Chi Minh City for some fun; delve deeper into the delta with a homestay around Vinh Long, or make for the tropical retreat of Phu Quoc Island, a well-earned reward for following the mother river.

6 WEEKS Mekong River

Meander

Top: Si Phan Don (p380), Laos Bottom: Floating market, Can Tho (p154), Vietnam

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Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT/MTR station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541535th edition – August 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 030 7© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSPhillip TangVietnam Phillip grew up on typically Australian pho and fish’n’chips. A degree in Chinese- and Latin-American cultures launched him into travel and writing about it for Lonely Planet’s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides. Follow Phillip Tang on instagram: @mrtangtangtang and twitter: @philliptang

Tim BewerLaos After briefly holding fort behind a desk as a legislative assistant, Tim decided he didn’t have the ego to succeed in the political world (or the stomach to work around those who did). He quit his job at the capitol to backpack around West Africa, during which time he pondered what to do next. His answer was to write a travel guide to parks, forests, and wildlife areas of the gorgeous state of Wisconsin. He’s been a freelance travel writer and photographer ever since. Greg BloomCambodia Greg is a freelance writer, tour operator and travel planner based in Siem Reap, Cambodia, and Manila, Philippines. Greg began his writing in the late ’90s working as a journalist, then editor-in-chief of the Kyiv Post, an English-language weekly in Ukraine. As a freelance travel writer, he has contributed to 35 Lonely Planet titles, mostly in Eastern Europe and Asia. He also organises adventure trips in Cambodia and Palawan (Philippines) through his tour company, Bearcat Travel.

Austin BushThailand Austin originally went to Thailand in 1999 as part of a language study program hosted by Chiang Mai University. The lure of city life, employment and spicy food eventually led him to Bangkok. City life, employment and spicy food have managed to keep him there since, working as a writer and photographer. He’s con-tributed text and photos to more than 20 Lonely Planet titles including Bangkok, Food Lover’s Guide to the World and the World’s Best Street Food.

Nick RayCambodia, Laos A Londoner of sorts, Nick harks from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. He studied history and politics at Warwick University be-fore hitting the road for a life in travel and has worked on about 50 titles for Lonely Planet since his first foray in 1998. Based in Cambodia’s Phnom Penh with his wife Kulikar and two children, Julian and Belle, he covers countries in Southeast Asia, including Myanmar and Vietnam, with the occasional diversion to Africa.

Richard WatersLaos Richard is an award-winning journalist and works for the Independent, Sun-day Times and Telegraph. Laos is one of his favourite countries, his journeys there started in ’99 as a traveller, then as a journalist taking him into the still forbidden Xaisomboun Zone investigating the Hmong guerrilla survivors of the Secret War. This will be his 12th Lonely Planet book on Laos. To read more of his travel journal-ism visit: www.richardwaters.co.uk.

China WilliamsThailand China has been writing about Thailand for Lonely Planet for more than a decade. She grew up in South Carolina, taught English in rural Thailand, learned the art of punctuation as an editor and commuted across oceans and continents to Southeast Asia. She now raises two children in Ellicott City, Maryland (USA), and tends a suburban woods filled with wildlife.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’