vintage and antique jewelry - spaces, september 2008

8/14/2019 Vintage and Antique Jewelry - Spaces, September 2008

1/6

rs

lltI


2/6


3/6

BY ParRrcra SHAcKELFoRD

r/tlueless when t comeso couture,feelat\zbit of a poseur hen he subjecturns ofashion. earing uniform f mostly l ack ndwhite, 'm hardly he one to advise n col-lectible lothing. hen realized intage ndestate ewelry s my personalobsession. tseemed nly ight o marry ashion,anaticisman dwork.

This eason'srendsend hemselveseau-tifully o vintage ndestate ieces. ong,ean,ladylike ilhouettes houted ut for a bit ofbravado. old ewelry dorned he necks ndwrists f fall 08'smodels. utantiqueewelryis an nvestmentf a lifetime, ieces cquiredbecause f theirunique ppeal o the ownelpieces hat will carry rom season o seasonbecausehey eflecthe styleand asteof a dis-cernlng ye.


4/6

.*:.* : . .:i&,:s:t.


5/6

fffecEAll the jewelers I talked to agreed hat in

general ewelry is defined as followsrantiqueis at least oo yearsold; vintage s old; estateis anythingpreviouslyworn.They fall into thefollowing ime periodsr

Georgian-17'14-183o:ll Georgian ewelrywas handmadeand was largelydifferent col-ors of gold, pearls and colored gemstonesFaceting was largely unknown, and most


6/6

for the professionals,r perhapsfor the profess ionals ,

ar epieces hat mark he heart-f theyend up n he possession

WandaAllen Less specific iececertainelements, l lenha sa passion

ad eeitheralone r mixedwithpearls r gold.esaysSouthSe apearlswith a Decoclaspworn o the side

tand-aloneiece. learingjade escribed sa "translu-gumdrop" av eme a newlyacquired espect, nd desire or, he

Bertelsmeier wocarator larger, merald-cut iamond ing,n the originalArt Decomounting.Who could blame

{*- r-''"'

i--* i- tn profile,he back f rhe ringl*.-* L l-* -\ riseso a point choinghesilhou-L** \-*f l * . .* . . \* l ette of the Russian niondomes.

ChrisGarrettRussiana- kyellow ol dhand-constructed ing set with a

four-carat, ound diamond withbezel et,Burmese-rubyccents.

Sally Hilkene A set featuring mperialtopaz, he r inga large cissor ut surrounded y a double

ro w of diamondshat would surely pa nknuckle o knuckle' he ear-r ings eature he same tones, ut with a dramatic, ear-shapedrop.

Tom Tivol A tgth-century, .5 carat demantoidgarnet ring with aclearyellow-greenolor set n a whitegold,engraved ettingwith dia-mondson eitherside.Th e stones nd workmanship oth outstanding,Tivoldeemed t'goosebumpygorgeous."

l I yo u ar e looking o acquire i 1- l iecefiewelry t l tere are a few things lo

The most iml lor tant, s wi th any col-s workwith a reputable ealer . om

nd Wanda Al len, who have joinedn provid ingexceptionalewelry ndappraisals , ave spent heir wholen the iewelry us ir ress ndustryAn

was a business, hich syo u to know yourand to seek an dl) l ) ra isal hen yo u

buyir rga vintage or ant ique piece. nhequal i tyof a piece ou

to consider , ndiv idual ly , the gem-metal , aborand design," aysTivol .you are lookingal d v intageCar l erhe says, yo u have o look beyondof the stones The cachet f the ew-

housemakes t extremely are."

TRENDOR NOTTO TRENDChr isCarrett a manager t Churchi l l n

uggesIS lropl) i r tg i t l ra mer-with a deep select ionand a knowl-

taff He and owner Sal ly Hi lkenecl ients have been

nterestedn plat inumarrddia-rom the 1930s But as lre

showsme an lBth-century endarr t et wi thintagl ios naturalpear ls nd a shel lcameoCarrettnotes, Sal lydoesn't o l low trendswhen t comes o ant ique ewelry He hinksol d piecesare d way for people o re inter-l l ret something n a new way "Antiqueiew-elryal lowspeople o rek indle he past

Nancy Berte lsmerer f L i l l iane's Finelewelry grees. heand her par tr rer , eraldChaitrnan, avebeensel l ing ewelryo gen-er : l inr rsof renealcrrs tnmersOne of theirmost common requests,and one of thernosten oyableo Fi l l ,s foranlrque r rgage-ment r ings.Li l l iane's as a broad select ionol v in lagealrd es ld le r ings hat are in t l teEdwardian ty le,white metalswith a lot ofdetai l arrd engrav ing,which has inspiredmany contemporary designers. "Some-t imes,"Berte lsmeier ayswith a srni le, theproposal appens ight hereBerte lsmeier howed me many lovelypieces, ut I was surpr is ingly namoredofthe Victor iaexamll les She demonstratedt l re c levernessnd economy f the Da yandNight earr rngs hat al low the drol t of theearr ing o be retnoved o i t is srml l leby dayand stur tn ing by nighl Large dramal icEastern ndian tassel earr ings would be

show-stop1:ersor he confi errt ash on sta.Mournir rg ewelry al l -b lack l t ieces tnadepopularby OueenVictor ia f ter he deathofher husband,would f ind a place in yourheartwlrether ou rc losetholdsCalv inKleinor AlexanderMcOueen.

BEYOUROW N BEST RIENDBut the interest ing hing isn ' t lust theiewelry , t 's the jewelrybuyer "Womenare

buying ewelry lremselves,nd not lust an yjewelry ,bul some[irneswor ld-c lassgem-stones,"saysTivol . t 's possib le ha t yoursweetheartwould see the appeal of theDeco box-cut diarnond tennis bracelet,lmagining he f lawless tonesdrapedcasu-al ly around your wr is t. But would yourhorrey now hat the Pers ianurquoisedropearringsse t in the twist of soFtgold ropemadeyourl)u lse uickerr bi l?Per lrapsBu ti f you sl ip on the pair of translucent adebanglebracelets nd " i t s ings," s Tivolpre-c l ic ts , t might be t ime to take hings i l l toyourown hands. f your sweetheartnquiresabout he purchase whatare he chances?),yo u ca n raise an eyebrowand coyly reply,"What? hi sold th ing?"

vintage and antique jewelry - spaces, september 2008

Documents