OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2012S E W I N G T O D AY ’ S

THE ULTIMATE SEWING MAGAZINE

SAMPLER SAMPLER SAMPLER SAMPLER

www.voguepatterns.com2

12 THE INVISIBLE ZIPPER Insert an invisible zipper perfectly.

18 ZIPPERED POCKETS Add this inconspicuous pocket almost anywhere.

20 RECYCLED COUTURE Eco wise…combine a men’s lumberjack shirt with a Vogue pattern and create couture fashion.

26 PRESSING ISSUES Investing in an ironing press.

28 PLAYING WITH PAINTSTIKS Create colorful fabric designs.

30 TRIMMING A CARDIGAN JACKET Part three of the series… Behind the Seams® with Claire Schaeffer.

36 SEWING CLOTHES YOU WILL LOVE TO WEAR Dressing the body you have to create the body you want.

42 THE LEGACY OF LACE A history.

46 STRIPE-SMART SEWING Working with stripe fabrics.

52 FREE PROJECT: DESIGNER LACE TOP Make it on your own.

58 BOOKREVIEW: OVERDRESSED The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion.

60 FIESTA GOWN A behind the scenes look at San Antonio’s annual celebration.

CO

NT

ENT

S 43

80

66

www.voguepatterns.com 3

ON THE COVERIssey Miyake delivers a graphic message with his giant check wool coat, V1320.Earrings and bracelet: Pat Areias. Gloves: Carolina Amato. Hair and makeup by Joseph Boggess. Photographed by Brian Kraus.

64 ONE DRESS…FOUR FABULOUS LOOKS Extending your fashion options.

66 DESIGNER VIEWS Fall 2012 designer collection.

78 FALL’S EASY OPTIONS Vogue’s easy patterns collection.

86 IT’S A WINTER WRAP A stunning new wardrobe for the season.

IN EVERY ISSUE4 MAILBOX

7 PUBLISHER’S LETTER

8 WHAT ARE YOU SEWING

10 GREAT GIVEAWAYS

15 WEB WATCH

88 BODY MEASUREMENT CHARTS

90 GUIDE TO PATTERN AND FABRIC REQUIREMENTS

94 CROSSWORD

96 THREAD TALES

October/November 2012

96

63

7847

53

RenewRe20 www.voguepatterns.com

fashionremedy

Recycled CoutureWhat do you get when you combine a men’s lumberjack shirt, a designer Vogue pattern, creativity, frugality, and the urge to recycle? We challenged designer Kathryn Brenne and she delivered the result to us—a stylish women’s jacket with a distinctive British feel.

(continued on page 22)

21 VOGUE PATTERNS October/November 2012

www.voguepatterns.com

by Kathryn Brenne

THE LUMBERJACK SHIRT DETAILS

Often a recycling project starts with a garment in a larger size because it provides ample yardage for cutting new pieces. But this men’s shirt, in a size small, has the unusual feature of raglan sleeves and they fi t a women’s size 12 shoulders. These sleeves cried out to be featured in the new jacket. The front facing would also prove useful for an inventive back collar treatment. The weight of the plaid fabric is just heavy enough for a lightweight jacket.

THE DESIGNER VOGUE PATTERN

Vintage Vogue V8686 is a sleek dress featuring a funnel neckline and a seven-eighths raglan sleeve, with bust shaping provided by a neckline dart and gathers at the waistline. The upper back bodice and sleeve are combined into one piece, transitioning into a yoke. Where the yoke joins the sleeve, the effect is a hybrid dolman/raglan sleeve. The dress can be worn with or without a separate belted peplum. By attaching the peplum to the bodice and omitting the skirt, the new garment is a top. With a few more pattern alterations, the back closure is gone, a front closure appears and now we have a jacket.

PATTERN ALTERATIONS

A front button closure requires the addition of an extension and a front facing. To draft the front facing pattern, trace a copy of the bodice front with the dart pinned closed. Draw a line, 4" from the fi nished edge, curving up towards the shoulder point and add seam allowance. The back button closure is not needed, so place the original center back on the fold and eliminate the extension. Make copies of both the front and back peplum pattern pieces to allow cutting in a single layer. To convert this close-fi tting dress pattern to a jacket pattern, add a ½" at the waist side seams, tapering to nothing at the

V8686PATTERN/PATRON

SIZE / TAILLE

ORIGINAL1933 DESIGN

DESSIN ORIGINALDE 1933

V O G U E ® P A T T E R N S

A

A

B

Pattern source courtesy of “The Rali Burleson Pattern Collection” – Vintage Vogue contest winner.Patron utilisé avec la permission de “The Rali Burleson Pattern Collection”, gagneur du concours Vintage Vogue.

A

Before: Shirt Front Before: Shirt Back

60 www.voguepatterns.com

(continued on page 62)

VOGUE PATTERNS October/November 2012

BE

HIN

D T

HE

SE

AM

S O

F A

iesta San Antonio is an annual celebration of the city’s heritage,

culture, and spirit, dating back to 1891. The elaborate gowns worn in the Royal Court parade are a highlight of the 10-day celebration during the last week of April. The signature feature of a Fiesta gown is a massive train, over 10 feet long. Because a train can weigh more than 50 pounds, the structure of the gown itself must be engineered to support the weight. The

gowns themselves can weigh over 20 pounds, so this is serious business. The process begins in August, with a phone call asking, “Are you ready to come and see what we have this year?” We study the images, planning how to

bring these beautiful artists’ images to life. The search for fabrics begins immediately; inquiries are made from coast to coast and around the world. Hundreds of meters of rhinestone chain in varying sizes is ordered. Zwarovski crystal stones and myriad glass beads are on their way before the fi rst piece of fabric is cut. A huge 50-yard roll of crinoline is lifted onto the 12-foot table to begin the arduous task of tracing all the pieces of the gown and train. Every piece is marked and then cut, sometimes by climbing on the table. A color is assigned to each piece, paint-by-number style. The combination of appliqué and reverse appliqué requires careful planning to avoid having too many layers of fabric in any one place. Some features of the design are three dimensional, adding to the complexity. By the time of the fi rst fi tting, the design motifs are marked on the fabric, displaying an undecorated rendition of the art. Intricate details are hand drawn, although we sometimes use photocopiers. We can change the size of the design elements progressively by adjusting the copy scale and then tracing onto crinoline. As we work through fashion and design decisions, excitement begins to build. Next, the dress is made with the fashion fabric, and the sturdy pattern dress (made from trigger, heavy muslin, or heavy interfacing) becomes the underlining. Another strong layer for the bodice, called the foundation, is constructed with boning and a very snug fi t to support the structure. With the lining added towards the end, the bodice consists of three layers. Even with many years’ experience, I still get a knot in my stomach when I get ready to make the fi rst cut in a very expensive or rare fabric. I announce, “I hope this is right!” and proceed to cut. Every time a client comes for a fi tting, the in-progress gown and train are assembled like a puzzle to review progress, and then disassembled to continue work. Rhinestone chain is lightly glued, and then hand sewn into place following every line of the design, leaving no exposed raw edges of fabric. Large crystal jewels and beads are hand sewn into the pieces to sparkle and glisten under the spotlights. The artistry and talent of the beadwork bring depth and character to these amazing designs.

FIESTA GOWN

fby Mechiel Whitmore

royal pageantry

61 VOGUE PATTERNS October/November 2012 www.voguepatterns.com

64 www.voguepatterns.com

ONE DRESS...FOUR ALL-STAR LOOKS

VOGUE PATTERNS October/November 2012

Jacket: M6531

Bracelet: Jan Michaels

Bag: Stuart Weitzman, Zappos.com

Shoe: Giuseppe Zanotti, Couture.Zappos.com

Tote Bag: Salvatore Ferragamo, Couture.Zappos.com

Shoe: L.A.M.B., Zappos.com

Earrings: Jan Michaels

Bracelet: Karine Sultan

Earrings: 1928 Jewelry

Ring: Anne Koplik

65 VOGUE PATTERNS October/November 2012 www.voguepatterns.com

Step up your wardrobe with this Rebecca Taylor dress that will carry you through the season with a change of accessories and a few added pieces . V1316.

Vest: V8838 Jacket: V8838

Ring: Jan Michaels

Necklace: John Wind

Belt: Pat Areias

Gloves: Carolina Amato

Cuff: Pat Areias

Shoe: L.A.M.B., Zappos.com

Clutch: BCBGMAXAZRIA,Zappos.com

Shoe: See by Chloe,Couture.Zappos.com

Cuff: Zenzii

Sewing Revolution!What’s New, What’s Hot, What’s Now!WWWWWWWWhhhhhaaaaattttttt’’’sssssss NNNNNNNNe

An extensive collection of new sewing, quilting and craft items are now available!Shops @ McCall is the one-stop center for all your favorite brands…Also excite your creative senses with our wide selection of great books, DVDs and CDs. See our array of wonderful gifts for family and friends…Enjoy your shopping experience.Shop Now!

Count Down to Halloween.See the Spooktacular McCall’s/ Butterick Halloween Issue with over 300 costumes for the entire family…Your Trick-Or-Treaters will delight in the spirit of this ghostly night with frightfully exciting costumes and decorations from sweet to scary. Available at your favorite retailer or at www.mccallpattern.com or www.butterick.com.

We’re “Mad” for Gertie’s Bombshell Style!Sewing enthusiast and teacher Gretchen Hirsch with a love for all things retro delivers a collection of Va-Va Voom fashions in Butterick’s Fall /Winter Catalog.

fb.butterick.comfb.kwiksew.comfb.mccallpattern.comfb.voguepatterns.com

M6630 P. 1707

DISPLAY UNTIL 12/31/2012