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Vogue USA - March 2016WELCOME TO THE REVOLUTION!
INSIDE
march
C O N T I N U E D >1 4 0
HILLARY CLINTON, PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARIO TESTINO.
THE RACE IS ON, P. 498
LIVING History
192 VOGUE.COM
312 UP FRONT
As a teenager, Stephanie Danler moved in with her father, whom she adored. But his secret drug dependency drove her to make an agonizing decision
322 LIVES
At a time of extraordinary turmoil, the 42-year-old Federica Mogherini has made a strong impression as Europe’s foreign-policy and security chief. Suzy Hansen reports
328 NOSTALGIA
A new HBO documentary looks at the glamorous ups and devastating downs of Gloria Vanderbilt and Anderson Cooper. By Rebecca Johnson
V O G U E . C O M 92
V O G U E M A R C H 2 0 1 6
march
CONT IN U E D >1 5 8
MODELS KARLIE KLOSS (IN EDUN) AND KENDALL JENNER (IN LOUIS VUITTON). PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARIO TESTINO.
GEEK LOVE, P. 476
376 THE HAMISH FILES
view 382 FUN HOUSE
After heading to the (Hollywood) hills, Jeremy Scott has turned an iconic mid-century home into a playful, cartoonlike enclave
399 THE BUYING GAME
As fashion’s seasons blur and runway shows go live to our smartphones, what’s the impact on how we shop—and who we want to wear? Lynn Yaeger inds out
406 AN EYE TO THE EAR
Not one, two, or even three piercings suice when it comes to the artfully curated lobe
412 GETTING PERSONAL
beauty & health 417 GRACE NOTES
Vogue’s venerable fashion editor Grace Coddington has distilled all her British charm and romantic sensibility into her rose- themed fragrance debut
420 METAL WINNERS
At once futuristic and disco-glam, modern molten inishes are this season’s must-have
424 RAISING THE BAR
428 SCREEN SAVIORS
Who needs to trek to weekly appointments when you can “see” a therapist online? Ginny Graves tries out the new craze for digital counseling
432 HEAD
Forward-thinking hairstylists are changing the product game with ive innovative launches
flash 356 IT GIRL
358 TALKING FASHION
A spotted topper gives a wild edge; ribbons tie together an evening ensemble (page 368); and metallics make a strong evening showing (page 372)
362 TNT
Elisabeth TNT meets her latest obsessions— art-world darlings Rachel Rose and Kerstin Brätsch
370 SOCIAL
RESPONSIBILITY
A senior adviser at U.N. Women, Elizabeth Nyamayaro is enlisting you— and Eddie Redmayne—in
V O G U E . C O M 140
V O G U E M A R C H 2 0 1 6
march
438 SMILE LINES
With high-impact lips back in the spotlight for spring, Marcia DeSanctis considers a few minor adjustments to her own
people are talkng about 442 UP NEXT
Quentin Dolmaire is bound to break hearts as the young star of My Golden Days
444 ART
444 SCENE
446 MUSIC
446 TELEVISION
448 DANCE
The written word leaps to life on two New York stages
448 DESIGN
448 MOVIES
The future is now in The Lobster and Eye in the Sky
450 DOCUMENTARY
Jacob Bernstein
450 TRAVEL
Heading to NOLA for Jazz Fest? Try these stunning boutique hotels
452 BOOKS
Dana Spiotta’s brilliant new novel, Innocents and Others, follows the paths of two ilmmaking friends
fashion & features 457 THE GREAT
DISRUPTION
As the fashion world begins to look, feel, and think more and more like the real world, a revolution is afoot. Sarah Mower walks us through the changing of the guard
476 GEEK LOVE
Karlie Kloss, Kendall Jenner, and Gigi Hadid head to Silicon Valley to meet the moguls behind the madness
488 LUSH LIFE
Take a decadent walk on the wildlower side in spring’s lavishly decorated shoes (handbags, too)— overloaded with handfuls of botanically inspired gems, studs, and beads
MODEL GRACE HARTZEL IN A JASON WU DRESS AND DOLCE & GABBANA SHOES. PHOTOGRAPHED BY WILLY VANDERPERRE.
LUSH LIFE, P. 488
COOKING AT HOME EASIER. PHOTOGRAPHED BY
ERIC BOMAN.
cover look
ADELE
EPOCH
Adele wears a Burberry dress and Dior Fine Jewelry earrings. To get this look, try: Outlast Stay Luminous Foundation, TruBlend Blush in Light Rose, Bombshell Pow-der Brow + Liner in Medium Brown, TruNaked Shadow Palette in Nudes, LashBlast Length Mascara, Colorlicious Lipstick in Decadent Peach. All by CoverGirl. Hair, Shay Ashual; makeup, Mark Carrasquillo. Set design, Mary Howard. Details, see In This Issue. Photographer: Annie Leibovitz. Fashion Editor: Tonne Goodman.
498 THE RACE IS ON
In another up-and-down, anything-can-happen primary season, Hillary Clinton has shown herself to be a formidable candidate—and a much happier one. Will she inally, at long last, make history? By Jonathan Van Meter
508 THE VOICE
Adele is back and breaking hearts with her sensational third album and an upcoming world tour. Hamish Bowles talks to her about fame, family, and fabulous frocks
520 WHEN TECH
Tim Cook and Jony Ive discuss the synergy
between Apple and fashion, two worlds fueled by curiosity and change. Rob Haskell reports
524 OUT OF THE BOX
Fast-moving curator Jessica Morgan has worked from Chicago to Boston to London to Gwangju. Now she’s landed at Dia Art Foundation, where her energy
is reshaping a New York institution. By Dodie Kazanjian
528 KILLING IT
Benjamin Walker marks his bloody return to Broadway in the stage adaptation of Bret Easton Ellis’s American Psycho. By Adam Green
530 HIGH DRAMA
As the Public Theater’s artistic director, Oskar Eustis has nurtured one ground-breaking hit after another (Hamilton, anyone?). Adam Green goes behind the scenes
534 CLASS ACT
Laurene Powell Jobs is using her considerable fortune to help fundamentally rethink the American high school. Robert Sullivan meets a philanthropy power player
538 CHEF NOT INCLUDED
With meal kits taking of, the food industry is inally joining the digital revolution. Tamar Adler starts cooking inside the box
540 MOMENT
542 I’M WITH THE BAND
Hit the road with an ensemble of dusky lorals and cocooning knits in tow—along with the front-man shine of blues-guitar impresario Gary Clark Jr.—for a summer illed with music festivals, from the Coachella desert to the ields of Glastonbury
index
555 WHITE ALBUM
Sing in spring with punchy, optic-white accents set against cool indigo denim
566 IN THIS ISSUE
TASTE Palette
V O G U E . C O M 166
V O G U E M A R C H 2 0 1 6
SHEER
BRILLIANCE
It’s always Fashion Week on Vogue Runway. Before and
after the shows wrap in the major fashion capitals, see our Street Style roundups from across the globe. Go
to Vogue Runway to find photos, from Tokyo to Tbilisi.
GET READY TO WEAR
The fall 2016 collections are upon us. Follow the fashion pack as they do the New York, London, Milan, Paris circuit, and check out Vogue Runway for up-to-the minute coverage of the shows, including instant runway photos, reviews by our top critics, beauty tutorials, and party reports.
COMING SOON
This spring, we bring you a guide to the best art, film, TV, music, and books to keep on your radar and consume.
WALK THIS WAY
VOGUE.COM, 2015.
Spring FEVER Fresh skin and power brows are the prerequisites for the look of the moment. And whether you’re shopping the latest makeup trends, making a major hair- color transformation, or picking a pretty perfume, our guide to spring beauty will carry you effortlessly through the season.
It’s a SMALL World
V O G U E . C O M >2 0 2
S H
E E
R B
R IL
L IA
N C
N .
192 V O G U E M A R C H 2 0 1 6
KICKIN’ IT
KENDALL JENNER,
JADEN SMITH, AND RIO URIBE, VOGUE, 2015. ABOVE RIGHT: JONATHAN SIMKHAI, JENNER, AND GIGI HADID, VOGUE, 2015.
SAVE the Date The most sought-after planners, stunning venues, romantic honeymoon spots, and our favorite dresses, jewelry, flowers, and food: We spotlight the best of all things bridal this spring.
The 2016 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund competition follows ten designers in their quest for the top title and a $400,000 prize. Watch them go head-to-head as they sketch, drape, and sew their way to win in season three of Amazon’s series The Fashion Fund. With Anna Wintour, Diane von Furstenberg, Jenna Lyons, and other big names in the industry on the judges’ panel, the pressure is officially on!
the NEW Class
THREE’S COMPANY
VOGUE, 2015.
WEDDING BELLES
VOGUE, 2015.
Oscar BUZZ We capture the 2016 Academy Awards from every angle, analyzing the Best Dressed on the red carpet and recapping the top moments of movies’ biggest night.
LEADING LADY
E .
202 V O G U E M A R C H 2 0 1 6
letter from the editor
E D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R >2 3 2
T h o s e o f y o u who are regular readers of Vogue know that one of the things we’re keen on is plac- ing fashion with-
in the context of the cultural and societal factors that can shape it in profound and meaningful ways. Something seismic has clearly been happening these last six months, if what we saw at the spring 2016 collections is anything to go by. The word we kept coming back to after those shows was disruption, and in “The Great Disruption” (page 457) you can discover the de- signers both established and new who are upending the industry, not to mention our closets, with their exciting, break-all-the-rules visions of how things should look and be. The portfolio accompanying Sarah Mower’s story also allowed us to photograph a few swaggeringly cool characters whom you might not necessarily expect to see in the pages of Vogue, and that is a good thing; after all, if we didn’t disrupt our- selves a little, then what would be the point?
Fashion is, like everything else in the world today, in the midst of what President Obama, in his last State of the Union address, called “extraordinary change.” His speech encapsulated everything that has made his presidency so inspiring, dynamic, and impactful, characterized by lead- ership that has been wonderfully courageous and deeply empathetic, and I want to take this opportunity to thank him for all of the advances that he and his administration
have achieved these past eight years. Of course, with 2016 being an election year, it carries the promise of all sorts of change. Personally, though, I’d like to go against the grain and say that what I am hoping for, post-election, is instead a sense of stability and constancy, of bravely staying the course, especially when one considers all that we are faced with at the moment: women’s rights chal- lenged, global terrorism, the refugee crisis, racial inequality and oppression, and the need for gun control.
That brings me to Democratic-nominee front-runner Hill- ary Clinton, whom we proile this
RUNNING STRONG
HILLARY CLINTON,
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
MARIO TESTINO.
V O G U E . C O M 216
V O G U E M A R C H 2 0 1 6
S IT
T IN
G S
E D
IT O
.
everyone else, will be closely watch- ing what unfolds in the months to come, and I will deinitely be sup- porting Hillary Clinton.
Our cover star, Adele (“The Voice,” page 508), is also no stranger to the incessant clamor of global media attention, though the British singer has found a clever way to deal with it: She simply removes herself from the public gaze for months at a time, keeps her head down, and gets on with her life with her boyfriend and son before returning to achieve ever greater levels of success. I thoroughly enjoyed Hamish Bowles’s funny, upbeat, and life-airming piece, and I hope you do too. The adorable, honest—and, yes, bawdy—Adele that emerges is diferent from the emotionally intense, pain- ful even, songs of hers that have touched so many. Yet it is obvious that she has lived what she sings. She is a reminder that authenticity always wins—something that I hope will prove to be the case come November 8.
month (“The Race Is On,” page 498). Secretary Clinton allowed writer Jonathan Van Meter inside her campaign machine as it geared up for the presidential primaries, crisscrossing the country from New York to Iowa to New Hampshire and back again. Jonathan’s engrossing profile illustrates not only the secretary’s char- ismatic brilliance but also the warm and sympathetic side of her personality, which represents so much of who she is. One single line in it—a quote from an anonymous attendee at a town hall in Iowa City—exactly mirrors my own feel- ings: “When I listen to you,” this woman said, “I feel that the political discourse is taken back to sanity.” That sentiment is especially apt given that we are in an election race unlike any other in living memory.
Jonathan’s piece obviously delves into the real chance of Secretary Clinton’s becoming our first female president, which would be a momentous occasion, and he makes a compelling argument for how the generational stages so many of us women face in life prepare one to be a very par- ticular kind of leader. And yet, when it comes to Secretary Clinton, gender is really only part of the story. Without doubt she represents the most solid, experienced, and ierce- ly intelligent candidate worthy of the highest oice in the land, more so than any in the current ield of hopefuls. As former Obama-campaign manager David Ploufe states, “At the end of the day, people can envision her behind that desk talking to the country, engaging with world leaders.” I, like
letter from the editor
C O N T I N U E D F R O M PA G E 2 1 6 SIREN SONG
ADELE, IN A BURBERRY
F A
S H
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232 V O G U E M A R C H 2 0 1 6
V O G U E . C O M 240
V O G U E M A R C H 2 0 1 6
ANNA WINTOUR Editor in Chief
Creative Director GRACE CODDINGTON Design Director RAÚL MARTINEZ
Fashion Director TONNE GOODMAN Features Director EVE MACSWEENEY Market Director, Fashion and Accessories VIRGINIA SMITH Executive Fashion Editor PHYLLIS POSNICK Style Director CAMILLA NICKERSON
International Editor at Large HAMISH BOWLES Fashion News Director MARK HOLGATE
Creative Digital Director SALLY SINGER
FA S H I O N /A C C E S S O R I E S
Fashion News Editor EMMA ELWICK-BATES Bookings Director HELENA SURIC Senior Accessories Editor SELBY DRUMMOND Editors GRACE GIVENS, ALEXANDRA MICHLER, EMMA MORRISON, MAYA SASAKI Menswear Editor MICHAEL PHILOUZE
Bookings Associate ERINA DIGBY Associate Market Editors SARA KLAUSING, WILLOW LINDLEY, FRANCESCA RAGAZZI Market Manager TAYLOR ANGINO
Associates LAUREN BELLAMY, ALEXANDRA CRONAN, GABRIELLA KAREFA-JOHNSON
Fashion Writer RACHEL WALDMAN Fashion Market Assistant MADELINE SWANSON Home Market Associate SAMANTHA REES
B E A U T Y
Beauty Director CELIA ELLENBERG Beauty Writer LAURA REGENSDORF Beauty Assistant ARDEN FANNING
F E AT U R E S
Culture Editor VALERIE STEIKER Senior Editors TAYLOR ANTRIM, LAUREN MECHLING, JOYCE RUBIN (Copy), COREY SEYMOUR Entertainment Editor JILLIAN DEMLING Social Editor CHLOE MALLE Style Editor at Large ELISABETH VON THURN UND TAXIS
Food Critic JEFFREY STEINGARTEN Arts Editor MARK GUIDUCCI Assistant Editor KATE GUADAGNINO Assistant Entertainment Editor SAMANTHA LONDON Features Associates LILI GÖKSENIN, ELIZABETH INGLESE
Features Assistants MADELEINE LUCKEL, LILAH RAMZI, LAUREN SANCHEZ
A R T
Deputy Design Director ALBERTO ORTA Art Director MARTIN HOOPS
Associate Art Director NOBI KASHIWAGI Designer JENNIFER DONNELLY Executive Photography Director IVAN SHAW
Photo Editor ALEX O’NEILL Photo Editor, Research MAUREEN SONGCO Photo Researcher TIM HERZOG Producers NIC BURDEKIN, JENNIFER GREIM Assistant Photo Editor LIANA BLUM Assistant to the Design Director ROSEMARY HANSEN
V O G U E . C O M
Site Director BEN BERENTSON Managing Editor ALEXANDRA MACON Senior Director of Product NEHA SINGH Director of Engineering KENTON JACOBSEN
Fashion News Director CHIOMA NNADI Director, Vogue Runway NICOLE PHELPS Executive Fashion Editor JORDEN BICKHAM
Beauty Director CATHERINE PIERCY Culture Editor ABBY AGUIRRE Photography Director ANDREW GOLD Art Director FERNANDO DIAS DE SOUZA Director of Visual Production and Development ALLISON BROWN
Fashion News Editor ALESSANDRA CODINHA Style Editor EDWARD BARSAMIAN Senior Fashion Writer MARJON CARLOS
Market Editors KELLY CONNOR, CHELSEA ZALOPANY Accessories Editor BROOKE DANIELSON Archive Editor LAIRD BORRELLI-PERSSON
Fashion News Writers KRISTIN ANDERSON, JANELLE OKWODU, LIANA SATENSTEIN, STEFF YOTKA Fashion News Associate EMILY FARRA Beauty Editor MACKENZIE WAGONER Beauty Assistant JENNA RENNERT
Deputy Culture Editor JESSIE HEYMAN Senior Culture Writer JULIA FELSENTHAL Culture Writer PATRICIA GARCIA Living Editor VIRGINIA VAN ZANTEN Living Writer BROOKE BOBB
Senior Photo Editor SUZANNE SHAHEEN Senior Visual Designer BRENDAN DUNNE Photo Editor EMILY ROSSER Associate Photo Editor SAMANTHA ADLER Production Manager ANDEE OLSON Associate Managing Editor ERINN HERMSEN Senior Producer CHRISTINA LIAO Producer MARIA WARD
Social Media Director ANNE JOHNSON New Media Editor BEAU SAM Associate Social Media Managers ZOE TAUBMAN, LUCIE ZHANG Photo Producer SOPHIA LI Research Editor MONICA KIM Copy Chief LANI MEYER
Associate Director, Audience Development BERKELEY BETHUNE Senior Manager, Analytics RACHEL LESAGE Senior Developers JEROME COVINGTON, GREGORY KILIAN Developers JE SUIS ENCRATEIA, SIMONE HILL
P R O D U C T I O N / C O P Y/ R E S E A R C H
Deputy Managing Editor DAVID BYARS Digital Production Manager JASON ROE Production Designers COR HAZELAAR, SARA REDEN
Deputy Copy Chief CAROLINE KIRK Senior Copy Editor LESLIE LIPTON Copy Editor DIEGO HADIS Research Director JENNIFER CONRAD Research Editors ALEXANDRA SANIDAD, COURTNEY MARCELLIN
Fashion Credits Editor IVETTE MANNERS
S P E C I A L P R O J E C T S / E D I T O R I A L D E V E L O P M E N T/ C O M M U N I C AT I O N S
Director of Special Projects SYLVANA WARD DURRETT Senior Events Manager EADDY KIERNAN
Editorial Business Director MIRA ILIE Manager, Editorial Operations XAVIER GONZALEZ Editorial Business Coordinator JESSECA JONES Executive Director of Communications HILDY KURYK Director of Brand Marketing NEGAR MOHAMMADI
Communications and Marketing Manager DANIKA OWSLEY Executive Assistant to the Editor in Chief GRACE HUNT Assistants to the Editor in Chief LOUISA STELLE, REBECCA UNGER
European Editor FIONA DARIN Fashion Associates CAMILA HENNESSY, ANTHONY KLEIN
West Coast Director LISA LOVE West Coast Associates CARA SANDERS, WENDELL WINTON
Managing Editor JON GLUCK Executive Director, Editorial and Special Projects CHRISTIANE MACK
C O N T R I B U T I N G E D I T O R S
ROSAMOND BERNIER, MIRANDA BROOKS, SARAH BROWN, ADAM GREEN, NATHAN HELLER, LAWREN HOWELL, CAROLINA IRVING, REBECCA JOHNSON, DODIE KAZANJIAN, SHIRLEY LORD, CATIE MARRON, SARA MOONVES, SARAH MOWER, MEGAN O’GRADY,
JOHN POWERS, MARINA RUST, LAUREN SANTO DOMINGO, TABITHA SIMMONS, ROBERT SULLIVAN, PLUM SYKES, JONATHAN VAN METER, SHELLEY WANGER, JANE WITHERS, VICKI WOODS, LYNN YAEGER
SUSAN D. PLAGEMANN Chief Revenue Oicer and Publisher
Associate Publisher, Marketing KIMBERLY FASTING BERG Associate Publisher, Advertising DAVID STUCKEY
A D V E R T I S I N G Executive Director, Digital Advertising KRISTEN ELLIOTT
Advertising Director BORA PARK Advertising Director, Digital ELIZABETH MARVIN
Executive Director, International Fashion and Business Development SUSAN CAPPA Executive Retail Director GERALDINE RIZZO Executive Beauty Director LAUREN HULKOWER-BELNICK
Fashion Director JAMIE TILSON ROSS Luxury Director ROY KIM Account Director MARIE LA FRANCE
American Fashion Managers LENA JOHNSON, HANNAH PECHTER Executive Assistants to the Publisher ANNIE MAYBELL, JEENA MARIE PENA
Advertising Coordinator NINA CAPACCHIONE Retail Coordinator ELIZABETH ODACHOWSKI
International Fashion Coordinator WILLIAM PRIGGE Advertising Assistants LILY MUMMERT, ELEANOR PEERY, CASEY TAYLOR, GABRIELLE MIZRAHI
Advertising Tel: 212 286 2860 Advertising Fax: 212…