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Abby Tegnelia Entertainment+Travel Editor, NiC Magazine | NowItCounts.com
A Fantastic Voyage To Northern California's Wine Country Posted: 01/29/2015 6:25 pm EST Updated: 2 hours ago
Livermore Vineyard in Tri-Valley, CA
When I lived in New York City after college, "wine country" seemed like an exotic,
intimidating locale that I would never have the opportunity to explore. My impression
couldn't have been more off! Many years later, I live so close to Napa and Sonoma that I go
about twice a month -- and have explored wineries and tasting rooms all over California. What
I love about it is that it offers something for everyone. Whether you're a newbie wine
connoisseur or an aficionado looking for new places to explore, I bet this wine country
extravaganza has something for you.
Let's start with Napa; since as the most famous name of California wine country, it's a great
place to begin our adventure. There's much rivalry between those who love Napa and those
who swing Sonoma. I'm here to tell you that you can like both. And with all the talk of getting
off the beaten path (we'll get there), I thought it'd be fun to start with the classics. First-time
visitors to the area should start with a leisurely drive up Highway 29. Most of the wineries
along that stretch don't require reservations, and all the big names are there: Robert Mondavi,
Domaine Chandon, Cakebread and Beringer. Just drive from Napa all the way to its
northernmost town of Calistoga (you'll know you're there when you spot the castle, Castello di
Amarosa -- you can't miss it), jumping out for tastings and tours as you see fit.
Castello Di Amorosa, Calistoga, CA
After you've gotten the lay of the
land, you're ready for some
additional don't-miss classics. Start
with Napa's PlumpJack, known for
its complex cabernet sauvignon. The
popular spot dates back to the 1800s
and sits squarely in the famous
Oakville Appelation (home to Opus One, Screaming Eagle and Joseph Phelps). Other famous
names include Caymus, in Rutherford, Charles Krug in St. Helena and Chateau Montelena,
which famously beat French wines in the competition made famous in the movie Bottle Shock.
It's way north in Calistoga, so save some time for the drive. (Reservations are recommended
for all of these properties.) Finally, driving the Silverado Trail is a must -- head for Stag's Leap
Wine Cellars and go from there.
One important movement in wine
country is the rise in eco-friendly
practices and sustainability. Benziger
Family Winery (three generations of
Benziger run the biz), in Sonoma, was a
pioneer and still leads in organic and
biodynamic farming. Its tours focus on
the land, getting visitors out into the
vineyards to learn about the soil and
growing practices before hitting the
tasting room. Also in Sonoma: Hamel Family Wines, a new destination winery organically
farmed by two generations of the Hamel family. Activities include touring the caves, private
dining and taking in the spectacular views of Sonoma Valley. Other popular wineries
committed to sustainability include Napa's Cade Estate, which boasts stunning views of the
valley and Clif Family Farm, which uses organically grown grapes, recycled materials and a
lighter glass. It runs an awesome tasting room called Velo in St. Helena. Some of Napa's
luxury properties are green as well. Yountville's intimate Bardessono is considered by many as
the ultimate eco-friendly resort and is one of only 3 LEED-certified platinum hotels in the
country. Farther north, in rural Calistoga, Calistoga Ranch, whose general manager is
nicknamed "Mother Nature," is built into the trees and recycles all of its water.
Newton Vineyards, St. Helena, CA
People often ask me about drinking and
driving in wine country. Livermore, in
theTri-Valley east of San Francisco, is the only
wine region that is reachable by train from the
city, so it's a great day trip for those who don't
want to deal with a car--guests often have a limo waiting at the train station. Wente Vineyards
is the biggest and most famous--make time for lunch at its gorgeous restaurant (and don't skip
its famous lamb pastrami). Another favorite is McGrail Vineyards--it has a stunning patio on
which to savor your vino. I've also taken a few really cool small group tastings in a luxury van
or limo with Beau Wine Tours, which offers both boutique and name brand all-day options.
(On a recent boutique winery tour, I had an amazing day with a young honeymooning couple
and two sassy sisters from Texas.) Napa also has an active über presence now, and I've always
wanted to hop onboard the Wine Train, which I've heard is excellent for beginners--plus, there
are often specials associated with the downtown hotels. Staying in downtown Napa, which has
exploded in recent years, is actually strategic for many reasons. First, there are loads (two
dozen, give or take) of tasting room options. Getaway Adventures bike tours offers a lovely
excursion to the beautiful and inviting Luna Vineyards, one of my very favorites, just outside
of town. I love to bring its Italian wines home, when I can drag myself away from the gorgeous
Tuscan patio. The Embassy Suites offers roomy accommodations and are just a ten-minute
walk to the closest tasting rooms. Or stay at River Terrace Inn or the spectacular Westin
Verasa, where an enormous salt-water hot tub awaits to help you sweat out any
over-indulgence. In addition to the tasting rooms, it's also a quick walk to yummy restaurants
such as locals' favorites ABC Bakery and Norman Rose Tavern, family-friendly Azzurro
Pizzeria, Oenotri's sinful Italian and Turkish hot spot Tarla Grill. No designated driver
needed! And don't get me started on Oxbow Market. I go every single time I'm in Napa, even if
it's only a day trip. Hog Island oysters, C Casa's delicious Latin fare (I'm partial to its
breakfast), Ca Momi's sinfully delicious pizzas and cheese plates from Oxbow Cheese & Wine
Merchant, all under the same roof? Who can resist?
Speaking of food, it's no secret that some
of the best in the country is now served
in Napa and Sonoma. Yountville
especially has become the most famous
foodie hot spot. The French Laundry is
every bit as special as you've read--many
people swear that a dinner at Thomas
Keller's institution is the best meal of
their life. He also owns the more casual
Ad Hoc (so good), Bouchon and
Bouchon Bakery. Needless to say, Chef Keller is revered in that neck of the woods. You also
can't go wrong at Jeanty (I love sitting at the bustling bar) or Redd, which has a delicious
brunch. One of my favorite meals this year was at Michael Chiarello'sBottega. The antipasti
was out of this world, and included house-cured prosciutto Tuscan salumi and
melt-in-your-mouth cheeses.
I also still dream about the grilled acorn-fed pork shoulder loin, ricotta gnocchi "pillows" with
old hen salsa and a potato ravioli filled with spinach ricotta, farm yard egg yolk and truffle
sage brown butter. Trust me -- go now.
Speaking of good eats, a few wineries offer unbelievable food and wine pairings. One fun
option is the Royal Tasting at Castello di Amorosa, with the high-energy Mary Davidek. She
takes you on a tour of the eccentric castle before settling in at a magnificent Tuscan table for a
delicious and fun tasting of cheeses, homemade Italian fare and loads of wine. Also big is B
Cellars, which this year moved from Calistoga to Oakville. The new digs include an interactive
demonstration kitchen, and an incredible food and wine pairing is on offer.
Silverado Resort and Spa, Napa
A favorite indulgence of mine is staying in one of the quaint cottages that are sprinkled
throughout Napa. Silverado Resort & Spa is somewhat of an institution, and is great for
couples. The well-known classic golf course just hosted the Frys.com Open on the PGA Tour;
Relax afterwards at the spa, which offers both hard-core sports massage and a golf ball
massage that uses the ball to work on knots. Nearby, The Cottages of Napa deliver a breakfast
basket of Bouchon Bakery treats. And up in Calistoga, the Cottages of Grove Inn are so close to
the town's geyser you can see the steam when it goes off
Now that you're basking in your own little cottage, and you've made your way through some
tasting rooms and classic wineries, let's push the envelope. Not that any of these wouldn't be
fabulous for beginners, but they're usually not a first-timer's immediate choice. I recently went
to Newton Vineyard, which blew me away. It's on a private estate whose neighbors limit tours
to once a day, so it's a real treat to go. The gardens are spectacular, like Alice In Wonderland,
and we did a tasting on top of Spring Mountain. The stunning Pine Ridge Vineyards has a
fabulous tasting at a glittery table in its caves, and there's also a gorgeous patio for private
tastings. The nearbyRobinson Family Vineyards, is a charming small-lot, family-run winery
that allows just one tasting at a time (make a reservation). One of my favorite varietals from
California is pinot noir--specifically those from Russian River Valley of Sonoma. Healdsburg,
home to that valley and Dry Creek and Alexander, is centered on a 19th Century plaza that's
absolutely adorable. Head to Jordan Winery, in Alexander Valley, which is simply stunning.
Focused on Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, the winery's estate boasts a spectacular
chateau with unforgettable views of the vineyards and gardens. Take a tour and then relax
over a wine and cheese pairing.
Who's coming with me?