w4g-book2c-r5

By Ozzie Freedom

Book 2-C: Electronic Enhancers

Version 5.0

Water4Gas.com Copyright © 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom

THIS BOOK IS COPYRIGHTED TO OZZIE FREEDOM.

THIS BOOK MAY NOT BE SOLD, GIVEN AWAY OR DISTRIBUTED IN ANY WAY, SHAPE OR FORM!!! SEND YOUR FRIENDS TO GET THEIR OWN COPY FROM WATER4GAS.COM - THANK YOU!

Dear Reader,

Although this book is copyrighted, Water4Gas technology is FREE TO USE for all your private AND commercial uses (third party products, trademarks and logos that may be mentioned or linked from this book, are proprietary to their respective companies).

The distribution of this book was made possible thanks to generous sponsorships by the following:

The author, Ozzie Freedom www.OzzieFreedom.com

The DVD seller www.Water4GasDVD.com

-and above all-

www.topNRG.com/sponsor

(see ad next page)

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Table of Contents -- Book 2-CChapter 1DISCLAIMERS........................................................................................5

Chapter 2SENSORS AND WIRING DATA.................................................................9

Chapter 3TROUBLESHOOTING FOR MILEAGE.......................................................12

Chapter 4HANDLING YOUR VEHICLE'S ELECTRONICS TO WORK WITH HHO........17

Chapter 5ENFORCING THE MAD ECU BACK TO SANITY........................................21

Chapter 6DO-IT-YOURSELF ALTERNATIVES TO EFIE............................................56

Chapter 7DUAL-EDGE MAP SENSOR ENHANCER (DEMSE)....................................58

Chapter 8MAF SENSOR ENHANCERS....................................................................67

Chapter 9COMPUTER REPLACEMENT AND REPROGRAMMING...............................73

Chapter 10VOLO PERFORMANCE...........................................................................80

Chapter 11GETTING HELP.....................................................................................83

Chapter 12WHAT’S NEXT?.....................................................................................86

Chapter 13GLOSSARY............................................................................................87

Chapter 14GET ALMOST-LIVE TRAINING FROM OZZIE FREEDOM.........................100

The contents of this book is divided into three volumes:Book 2-A: Overview of Fuel Economy Tuning

Book 2-B: Mechanical Enhancers

Book 2-C (THIS VOLUME): Electronic Enhancers




CHAPTER 1CHAPTER 1DISCLAIMERSDISCLAIMERS

THIS BOOK HAS EXPERIMENTAL INFORMATIONTHIS BOOK HAS EXPERIMENTAL INFORMATION PROVIDED AS-IS FOR PROOF-OF-CONCEPT PURPOSESPROVIDED AS-IS FOR PROOF-OF-CONCEPT PURPOSESTHE VIEWS, IDEAS AND INFORMATION PROVIDED IN THIS BOOK REPRESENT THE AUTHOR’S OPINIONS AND HAVE NOT BEEN APPROVED BY ANY AUTHORITATIVE BODY ON SCIENCE, HEALTH OR ECONOMY.

Since the information in this book, as well as on the Publisher's web site, are provided AS-IS, there is no warranty expressed or implied concerning the suitability of Water4Gas Technology or related information, including tax write-off information and warranty protection information, for any particular application, circumstance or geographical area.

THE TECHNOLOGY DESCRIBED AND ILLUSTRATED IN THIS BOOK IS PURELY EXPERIMENTAL; therefore no specific results can be guaranteed for any model of vehicle, marine vessel, generator, or for any other purpose or application. Use of this Technology, as well as related devices or information, is at your very own risk. There is no warranty that Water4Gas Technology is fit for a particular purpose or area.

Although careful precaution has been taken in the preparation of this book, the Author and Publisher(s) shall not be held liable to you for damages, including any general, special, incidental or consequential damages arising out of the use or inability to use Water4Gas technology, including but not limited to loss or personal injury or losses sustained by the user or third parties or a failure of the Technology to operate, even if such holder or other party has been advised of the possibility of such damages.

The Technology is not intended for use in violation of local laws and regulations which may be applicable to your geographical area. Compliance with any law, where applicable, is your responsibility. The Author and Publisher(s) and their employees, executives, distributors and affiliates shall not be held responsible for how your use Water4Gas Technology, related knowledge or any device thereof.

You are charged with the responsibility of experimenting, installing, properly using and maintaining the workability of Water4Gas Technology. All manufacturers, suppliers, merchants and mechanics are responsible for their own job and no warranty is given by the Author or Publisher(s) for their performance or work ethics.

TECH SUPPORT (WHEN AVAILABLE) MAY OR MAY NOT BE PROVIDED BY THE AUTHOR OR PUBLISHER(S) AS A FREE SERVICE OF GOODWILL. Such service is provided AS-IS without warranty of any kind. No commitment is either expressed or implied that Tech Support will be available for any period or length of time, or that it will be helpful in solving any technical problems.

YOUR RIGHTS AND RESPONSIBILITIESYOUR RIGHTS AND RESPONSIBILITIESWater4Gas Technology is based on public domain and Open Source philosophy and cannot be patented as far as the Author knows.




You are hereby given permission to replicate and sell, without requirement for further written permission, any device, system or service relating to Water4Gas Technology BUT NOT THE INFORMATIONAL PRODUCTS (e.g., this book/s and the DVD’s) AND/OR LOGOS AND/OR TRADEMARKS of the Author and Publisher(s). Such permission includes the permission to replicate the devices and methods illustrated in this book, as well as permission for full free use (including alterations) of the related manufacturing data and replication data. In case of intellectual property, patent or trademark belonging to a third party, you must communicate directly with their respective owners to obtain usage permission.

The Publisher(s) retain their right and the choice to refuse service and/or support to any reader, visitor, affiliate, vendor, manufacturer or mechanic, regardless of their payment or refund (if any).

The Author and Publisher(s) retain the freedom to change and improve Water4Gas Technology, its informational products and delivery methods at any given time. This technological field is constantly evolving, therefore CHANGES SHOULD BE EXPECTED for the good of all.

Being a Water4Gas experimenter and user is an honorary status, providing you with the opportunity to protect the environment and help the economy of your country. It is permissible and very agreeable to generate extra income selling the Technology to others or to voluntarily help others to use the Technology. However, NO PART of the Technology, related materials or information may be promoted or distributed in order to ridicule the Technology or to lower its public image or usability in any way, and such behavior would result in immediate exclusion from access and participation, as well as possible legal action submitted against the offender. Experimenters, Members, Affiliates and Vendors are charged with the responsibility of honorably representing the Technology and its users, as well as the Author and the Publisher(s).

THE AUTHOR AND PUBLISHER(S) EXPRESSLY WISH TO HAVE ONLY SATISFIED STUDENTS AND AFFILIATIONS. IF FOR ANY REASON YOU DO NOT AGREE WITH THE TERMS AND CONDITIONS OFFERED ABOVE, OR IF YOU HAVE DOUBTS OR RESERVATIONS REGARDING THE VALIDITY OF THE TECHNOLOGY, OR IF YOU ARE NOT WILLING TO TAKE THE RISKS AND RESPONSIBILITIES OF BEING AN EXPERIMENTER, DO NOT USE THIS BOOK OR ANY OF THE LINKS PROVIDED IN IT.

LEGALITYLEGALITYWARNING! DO NOT TAKE THIS TEXT AS LEGAL ADVICE! The text below has the Author's interpretation of basic laws and an expression of his opinions on issues of legality.

Water4Gas is not a specific product – but a general concept or a set of ideas on how to save the environment and possibly save some money too. Every experimenter is free to make changes and versions of Water4Gas Technology. Additionally, this book gives several versions and options. For these reasons, it can be seen that the Technology is purely experimental and is totally in the hands of the reader or user.

Water4Gas Technology cannot be sent for government “approval” because the average experimenter is going to change it while experimenting, even if only by a little bit. It's not a factory item with a finite set of specifications. Maybe it will never be.

To this, add the fact that any of the Water4Gas devices are temporarily attached to the vehicle – for experimenting – and can be removed quickly at any given time. Each




such attachment is a TEMPORARY ATTACHMENT, not a modification of the vehicle. It's like adding a removable awning or a removable glass door to your porch – you don't need a building permit since you haven't modified the house. Some cities would limit what type of EXTERNAL “cosmetics” you can add to the outer walls (this could be likened to the prohibition to attach crazy flashing lights to a public-road vehicle). But no city or landlord may prevent you from placing a temporary room divider, or any other internal, non-permanent attachment.

Besides, in the past few years the Water4Gas books have already been used by developers and inventors as an inspiration for further developments, in the fields of HEATING/COOKING with water-fuel, efficiency enhancements of GENERATORS AND BOAT ENGINES, etc. Therefore it can be seen that this Technology and knowledge should not be taken in the limited scope of “you-must-do-this-to-your-vehicle,” but in the broader context of inspiration and general education on what can be done.

Additionally – and you may verify this with your lawyer – legalities of the road are very different from legalities of the sea, farm equipment and energy generators.

Bottom line: either you take the viewpoint of an experiment done by the individual which CANNOT therefore be approved as a product, or you take the viewpoint of temporary attachment, either way you haven't modified the vehicle and you are welcome to experiment. If you want to remove the device or system before a smog test, go ahead and do that. The tester doesn't want to bother with experiments and he's right – it's not his job and not his expertise to evaluate experimental technology.

In case your mechanic is leery of losing his license because HE believes that the Technology might be illegal, let him make his own decisions. The responsibility must always stay with the experimenter – you. Not the mechanic. If you happen to need HELP from a mechanic, let the mechanic ASSIST you but not do the entire job for you.

For instance if the experimenter is comfortable with the electrical connections, let him or her do that; and if he or she is only comfortable with the mechanical attachment, let him/her do that. In short, let it be the experimenter's project at their very own risk – he or she must (in my humble opinion) sign a liability waiver releasing the mechanic of any liability. The experimenter (the owner of the vehicle or property) must take the ENTIRE RISK in writing.

So we basically have the following three principles:

1.EXPERIMENTAL: This technology is experimental and ever-changing. 2.TEMPORARY: It's not a modification but a temporary attachment.3.CAVEAT EMPTOR (Latin for "Let the buyer beware"): There must be no liability on the merchant or the mechanic. As in Roman times, the Buyer takes all the risk.




WARRANTY PROTECTIONWARRANTY PROTECTIONThe book “Car Hacks & Mods For Dummies” by Wiley Publishing, Inc. advocates that hacking or modding (modifying) your vehicle does NOT automatically cancel your warranty. In the article “Keeping Your Mod's Warranty Intact” the book tells you how and what to do – and what NOT to do (such as messing with the VIN number). Get that book at www.water4gas.com/1/hacksmods.htm

Abstract: American vehicle owners and aftermarket enthusiasts have the help and protection of a lobbying organization named SEMA – Specialty Equipment Market Association. SEMA represents the aftermarket products manufacturers, wholesalers, retailers and distributors in North America. Their main achievement as far as the sale and use of aftermarket products is the Magnuson-Moss Warranty - Federal Trade Commission Improvement Act of 1975 (in short “Magnuson-Moss Act”) which protects consumers from being wrongfully denied warranty coverage by new car dealers or manufacturers (whoever covers the warranty or warranties). For example, if your axle has broken down, they cannot deny warranty only because you have installed an aftermarket GPS, or a pollution reducer, or a better radio.

Sounds obvious? It wasn't obvious before the Magnuson-Moss Act.

WHAT WE KNOW AND WHAT WE DON'TWHAT WE KNOW AND WHAT WE DON'TThis book does not pretend to be a scientific research or scientific teaching. It is only a record of the Author's findings and actual experimentation. Therefore, if you find scientific inaccuracies anywhere in this book, please bear in mind that these descriptions and explanations are aimed at simplicity and ease of application rather than “scientific truth.”

Here's a real-life example: Today I was told that our usage of the term “Brown's Gas” is very far from scientific truth... The self-appointed “expert” claimed that if you took the world's top-5 scientists and researchers on the subject, and asked them for their expert opinion on “Brown's Gas,” they would give you five TOTALLY DIFFERENT explanations.

Oh well. So what does that mean for us? That we cannot use this term???

For us, the term “scientific truth” means: (a) -what worked? (b) -what didn't work?

- or, in other words, our knowledge and certainty is based solely on RESULTS. Whether we can or cannot explain it “properly” is not the issue. Our scientific truth is simply this: RESULTS=SCIENTIFIC TRUTH

For example, if you drink a glass of tea and it relieves your thirst every time, then (for you) it is a workable technique to relieve thirst. Can you explain how tea works, to the fullest extent of micro-organisms and chemical reactions between sub-atomic particles inside your super-complex body? I don't think so.

Does the fact that you cannot EXPLAIN tea defy the workability of tea???

What do you think? If you think it defies workability, then don't read this book any further. Because this book comes from the Land of Results and not from the Land of Theories.


http://www.water4gas.com/1/hacksmods.htm



CHAPTER 2CHAPTER 2SENSORS AND WIRING DATASENSORS AND WIRING DATA

THE NEED FOR DATATHE NEED FOR DATAIn the following chapters we will talk about all sorts of vehicle sensors, and when dealing with those you need to find your way around their intricate connections. Let me start off by saying that if you're about to handle those, you MUST have and must USE accurate data regarding sensors and wiring, to prevent damage to the vehicle and its computers.

This chapter is here to provide you with sources of accurate data.

First of all it's important to understand the differences between the various sensors. If this book and the Glossary do not provide the information you need, refer to manufacturer's technical manuals and online sources such as www.WikiPedia.org

HOW TO IDENTIFY SENSORSHOW TO IDENTIFY SENSORSNot all modern fuel injection system are created equal, but a typical system may include the following sensors:

• Oxygen Sensor (O2 Sensor)

• Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor

• Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor, also called "Intake Air Flow Sensor" or Air Flow Meter"

• Exhaust Temperature Sensor (the "Oxygen Sensor" near the catalytic converter)

• Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor

• Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

• Fuel Pressure Sensor

• Barometric Pressure Sensor

• Engine Speed Sensor

• Knock Sensor.

Sometimes it's hard to find what type and number of sensors your vehicle has. Between so many car models, a source of reliable information is necessary. Also, we want it to be easy to use. There are many ways to do this and this is my suggestion for readers who have a computer: Use the free RockAuto Parts Catalog!

1. To start searching, visit http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/


http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/

http://www.WikiPedia.org/



2. Choose your auto maker. You can do this by scrolling down, or by searching for a brand name in the search box. NOTE: I tried to type the entire description of my car, and found nothing. Then I found out that it must be in a specific format (Year, Make, Model, Engine); you can change the sequence (for example Make, Engine, Model, Year), but you must add commas and leave spaces after each comma. For example type: toyota, 1999, 1.8, corolla3. Select the manufacturing year, then model. You can do this either by clicking the small + sign next to the line, or clicking the line itself.

4. A list of information groups will be displayed, by system type. Select "Emission".

5. The list will now expand to show what type of emission-related sensors and parts are available in that specific vehicle. In the example shown below, I searched for the MAP Sensor types for my Toyota, 1999, Corolla, 1.8 liter.

6. When you click on one of the small photos, a larger photo will be displayed. This can help you identify the sensor after you've seen it in the engine.




WHERE TO FIND VEHICLE WIRING DIAGRAMS ANDWHERE TO FIND VEHICLE WIRING DIAGRAMS AND MUCH MOREMUCH MORE

Caution: When dealing with the intricate jungle of ECUs, sensors and all of that, you must use proper factory information. If you're not sure, leave it in the hands of a professional.

However, if you know you can do it if only you had the CORRECT and COMPLETE information, pay a small fee to ALLDATA and get all this:

• DETAILED WIRING DIAGRAMS,

• Factory Diagnostic Flow Charts,

• Factory Repair Procedures,

• Diagrams with Part Numbers,

• Trouble Codes,

• Research Tools and much more,

• Updated and original – better and deeper information than a printed manual!

www.water4gas.com/1/vehicledata.htm


http://www.water4gas.com/1/vehicledata.htm




CHAPTER 3CHAPTER 3TROUBLESHOOTING FOR MILEAGETROUBLESHOOTING FOR MILEAGE

AUTOMATED TOOLAUTOMATED TOOLI have developed an interactive Troubleshooter of Water4Gas systems for your free use. Download this tool from the Members Area of www.Water4Gas.com, install it on your computer (PC or Mac) and use it as instructed.

In addition to the Interactive Troubleshooter, use the article below to debug your system, with the primary goal being the maximum performance in terms of mileage. Mind you, when you have achieved maximal mileage you also, inevitably, have achieved maximal combustion (burn) of whatever fuel you are using, thus optimizing emissions as well and benefiting the environment.


GST #28

http://www.Water4Gas.com/



HHO SYSTEM DEBUG CHECKLISTHHO SYSTEM DEBUG CHECKLISTBy Mike Kehrli of www.water4gas.com/1/fuelsaver-mpg.htm

HHO will improve combustion efficiency. This is a scientific fact. When introduced into the engine along with the petroleum based fuel, it causes the flame speed to increase. This allows more of the petrol to burn during the power stroke. This will just happen. And it will be a dramatic increase over the combustion without the HHO. After the combustion efficiency is improved, the ECU is often fooled by the reduced quantity of unburned hydrocarbons and increased oxygen content, and often will add fuel to compensate. This can ruin your mileage gains.

The simplicity of what we have to do to have a successful HHO installation is: (a) get some HHO into the engine and (b) adjust the sensor inputs as necessary so the ECU is not blocking the gains. That's all. If we can do those two things, we will always get vastly improved fuel economy and vastly improved (decreased) emissions.

While this checklist was written with HHO users in mind, it will work for any other technology that improves combustion efficiency. You will find that you can adapt many of these steps to apply to whatever technology you are using to debug your project. Other combustion technologies include (but are not limited to): water vapor injection, fuel preheating, fuel vaporizers/atomizers, fuel cracking technologies (using additives to break down the fuel), etc.

You should check out these items working from the top down. They have been ordered this way on purpose so that the most likely problems are higher on the list. Also, the problems that are the easiest to test appear higher on the list than those that are difficult and/or expensive to test for.

The thing you have to realize is that the technology works. And because it does, all vehicles can be solved. If you are having a hard time getting the results you should, you just need to go through these items and find the reasons your gains are being blocked. If you keep at it, you will find the problem and you will get the gains you are seeking.

1. Is your device making HHO?

The most common bug we encounter trying to debug systems is that HHO is not being produced. Check your system. Measure the output of your HHO cell by doing a water displacement test.1

Another thing that should be checked here is whether your unit is making HHO or steam. Some of the early cell developers would run their units with so much amperage that the unit was producing more steam than anything else. If your unit runs hot to the touch, you must suspect that at least part of your output is steam. One way to test for steam is to run your gas outlet through one or more bubblers. This will cool the gas so the steam condenses out and the remainder of the gas should be largely HHO.

1 Some say that you must provide the engine with ¼-½ liter/min of HHO per liter of engine displacement. However, from my experience good mileage can be gained with much lower levels of HHO and it's not always “the more the better.” The Multi-Cell system is usually enough even for large vehicles. If you're not sure how to perform the “water displacement test” mentioned above, consult our discussion forums at www.Water4Gas.com


http://www.water4Gas.com/

http://www.water4gas.com/1/fuelsaver-mpg.htm



2. Is the HHO getting into the engine?

We have seen cases where a leak in the system was keeping the hydrogen from getting into the engine. A split hose can cause this, or one that is not attached at all. A check valve oriented in the wrong direction can block the HHO from getting to the engine. One time we found that the lid to an Electrolyzer had a leak and when this was fixed the situation resolved completely. Spray your hoses and connections with soapy water to expose any leaks in your system. Fix any that you find.

3. Do you have an EFIE installed?

Vehicles with carburetors and diesel engines do not require an EFIE. But all other fuel injected engines will need to have their electronics handled to get the gains of an HHO system installation. Usually the only sensors that require handling are the oxygen sensors that are upstream of the catalytic converter (we'll elaborate on that in the following chapters). Most V-6 and V-8 engines have two of these sensors and most 4-cylinder engines have one oxygen sensor that needs handling.

4. Do you have the right type of EFIE?

Most Japanese and German cars/trucks from about year 2000 forward use “wide band” oxygen sensors. This is a new type of sensor that will not work with EFIEs made for narrow band vehicles. If you have a doubt about which type you need, send in a Sensor Request Form to Mike's support department (see link below). They will let you know what type and how many sensors you have. You do not have to be a customer of ours to avail yourself of this service. If you have wide band sensors, you will need to get the Wide Band EFIE from our online store www.water4gas.com/1/fuelsaver-mpg.htm

5. Is your EFIE installed correctly and on the correct wire?

Refer back to the instructions for the type of EFIE you have installed. If you are using a product from another company, you can still refer to our installation instructions which usually are a little more complete. The section for finding your signal wire is pretty extensive and includes a video of what your signal wire should look like when measured on a volt meter. If you have the correct phenomena for your signal wire, make sure you have the upstream sensor2, and not the downstream sensor3. Installing the EFIE on the wrong wire is one of the most common EFIE installation errors that come up on our support lines.

6. Reset your computer.

Some computers are able to "learn" and adapt to the conditions that exist in your engine. Since you have made a major change by adding an HHO system and EFIEs, you may need to reset the computer to erase what it learned about the system when it was inefficient, and start over again with the new improvements installed. You can reset your computer by disconnecting your battery ground wire from the car, and leaving it off for 15 or 20 minutes. Then reconnecting it again. I wouldn't do this every time you make a

2 Upstream means closer to the engine; in this case, oxygen sensors in the exhaust manifold right outside the engine.

3 Downstream means further away from the engine, in this case AFTER the catalytic converter.





change to the EFIE's setting. But its a good idea to do once you have installed a new system.

7. Is your EFIE functioning correctly?

This is rather easily tested. For all types of narrow band EFIE except our Digital Narrow Band series, measure the voltage between the sensor and the ECU (from the input to the output of the EFIE). You should see the voltage that the EFIE is adding. For the digital EFIE, you can read the EFIE's output vs ground. You should see it changing between .1 and .9 volts rather rapidly.

If you don't see this, you are either on the wrong wire or the EFIE is malfunctioning. For the wide band EFIE you must disconnect a lead and measure the current from the output of the EFIE to ground. Your meter must be sensitive enough to measure the expected output which is between 1-3 milliamps.

Before proceeding to the following steps: You should definitely make sure that all of the above steps are in. The following are less likely to be the source of the problem, and require some additional expense. So if you are planning to do expensive handlings, you want to make sure that the simple items above are taken care of. Furthermore, if the checklist steps above are out, the following steps, even though expensive, will not resolve the situation.

8. Do your oxygen sensors need to be replaced?

Oxygen sensors wear out. I have seen estimates that say you should replace them after 40,000 miles. In my experience they can get many more miles than this, but if you have 100,000 miles or more on your oxygen sensors you must replace them. It is likely that replacing them will give you a good increase in mileage all by itself. We have seen a number of projects completely debug by doing this step alone.

9. Is there something else mechanically wrong with your engine?

If your engine is not working properly, adding an HHO system will not correct that. You will often find that if your engine is not working properly, just fixing it can give you a dramatic increase in mileage all by itself. If you had any kind of check engine light before starting the project, you should get this fault explored and handled.

If you're not sure, reset your computer, turn off all of your HHO, EFIEs and any other added modifications, and see if you still get a fault code. If so, get it fixed first, before adding your modifications. Sometimes fault codes don't show up as a check engine light, but can still be read by a standard reader (scanner). If you have a vehicle that was manufactured in the US after 1995, you can take your car to an auto parts store, and they will often read your codes for free, and help you get them handled.

10. Do you need to treat your downstream sensors?

In the past, and in most cases, the downstream sensors are not used in air/fuel ratio calculations. Therefore they do not need to be treated. But we are finding quite a few cases where that's not true anymore. Dodge/Chrysler and Honda from about 2002 forward have documented that they are using the rear sensors as part of their air/fuel




ratio calculations. Jeeps are doing this also. We have also debugged projects by treating downstream sensors on Ford F-150's and Mercedes, even though there is no documentation that the downstream sensors are used in air/fuel ratio calculations.

It is now a primary suspect when fuel mileage is not being achieved when the steps above are all found to be OK. We've never seen wide band sensors used downstream beyond the catalytic converter, so narrow band EFIE's are needed. A further note is that you should not use Digital Narrow Band EFIE's on the downstream sensors. These were designed to work with the phenomena that we expect from the upstream sensor activity. You can use any analog narrow band EFIE to treat these sensors.

11. Do other sensors need adjustment?

After treating the oxygen sensors, the most likely sensor still needed to be treated is the MAF or the MAP. In most vehicles you have one or the other, but not both. In some vehicles you have both, and when you do, you want to treat the MAF. There is a circuit that will work for this that can be found in this book (MAP/MAF SENSOR ENHANCER) and also at Mike's website: www.Water4Gas.com/1/fuelsaver-mpg-maf.htm

Note that Ford MAP's usually have a frequency type of output to the ECU. However, in these cases you will usually find they also have a voltage-based MAF that you can treat. After treating the MAF or MAP, the other sensors that can be tuned with profit are the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) and CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor). These are even more easily tuned and this is covered in the following chapters.

To summarize, many cars only need to treat the upstream oxygen sensor(s).

When this fails, we have found that most of the remaining projects will debug completely by treating the downstream oxygen sensor(s). In the rare cases where more tuning is needed then the MAF (or MAP if there is no MAF) has solved the case. We almost never need to treat the IAT sensor or the CTS. So treat the sensors in that order.

12. What did I miss in the steps above?

All vehicles can be solved. Some of them are a little tougher than others due to the way the ECU was programmed. But they can all be solved.

The technology works.

If you have gotten to this point and your vehicle is still not been solved, one of the above steps is still out. You need to find it and get it corrected.

And then your results will shine through.

ALSO USE GST #29 – SEE CHAPTER “GETTING HELP” TOWARD THE END OF THIS BOOK.[~Ozzie]


http://www.Water4Gas.com/1/fuelsaver-mpg-maf.htm



CHAPTER 4CHAPTER 4HANDLING YOUR VEHICLE'S ELECTRONICSHANDLING YOUR VEHICLE'S ELECTRONICS

TO WORK WITH HHOTO WORK WITH HHO

An excellent introduction to electronics tuning (GST #6, next chapter)by Mike Kehrli from www.water4gas.com/1/fuelsaver-mpg.htm

INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTIONBack in the “good old days,” you had carburetors and distributors, and no one ever heard of putting a computer in a car. If you wanted to modify the engine, and in particular, if you wanted to add supplemental hydrogen, well you just did it. The results were instantaneous, and there was no computer to get in the way. Even today, diesels are still in much the same state. Add an HHO generator, and you're done. You can start getting instant mileage increases without further fuss.

With the coming of modern fuel injected vehicles, there is no longer a carburetor mechanically metering out the correct amount of gas to the engine. So an array of sensors is needed to monitor what is going on with the engine, and a computer to calculate the correct amount of gas to inject.

This all started out pretty simple in the beginning, but as the computer chips became more powerful, the programs started getting more complicated. However, in the end, you have a few sensors being used, and with the data from these sensors, the computer is calculating the amount of fuel to inject to make the engine run properly.

I've been finding a lot of people are confused on the subject of these electronics. I've even talked to a growing number of cell designers and resellers that only want to deal with diesel engines so they won't have to tackle the computers of gas burning cars.

I've heard people say that cars built after 2004 won't get better mileage with HHO because the computers won't allow it. All of these observations make it clear that there are some confusions on the subject of the car's electronics, and we had better get this subject better understood so we can all be more successful using HHO.

THE BASICSTHE BASICSIn order to get good results with an HHO system, you have to do two things: (1) Get a good, efficient source of HHO, and get it into the engine, and (2) Handle the computer so that it can accept the resulting improved combustion. That's all. That's the simplicity of what we are trying to do. If we achieve those two things, we will get a remarkable





increase in fuel economy, and a dramatic decrease in vehicle emissions. This article assumes that you have a good HHO supply for your engine, and it will strictly cover handling the sensors and the computer.

As is covered in more depth in other articles, when using HHO (or any other technology that causes more efficient burning of the petroleum fuel), one of the phenomena that occurs is that there is more oxygen appearing in the exhaust. When this information is fed to the computer from the oxygen sensor(s), the computer reacts by adding more gas. However, in this case, the added gas is more than the engine needs.

The reason the computer is adding fuel is that the oxygen levels in the exhaust are telling it (incorrectly) that the air/fuel mixture is too lean. The trouble is, the mix was correct, and the fact that the fuel is being burned completely is fooling the computer into thinking that the mix is too lean. It just wasn't programmed for combustion to be this complete. This is the factor that we have to overcome in order to get our results with our HHO system.

SENSORS, SENSORS AND MORE SENSORSSENSORS, SENSORS AND MORE SENSORSComputers use a number of sensors to figure out the air fuel ratio, and thereby the amount of fuel to deliver to the engine. Chief among these is the oxygen sensor. But also used are the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor, IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor and CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor), and RPM (Rounds Per Minute) sensor.

This is not a huge list of sensors, and all vehicles use a combination of these sensors to do the calculations for amount of gas to deliver. Further, while there are a few variations of how each sensor does its job, the basic information they give is the same for all cars. For instance, there are wide band oxygen sensors and narrow band oxygen sensors. They operate completely differently, but they still both tell the computer the same thing. The same goes with the rest of the sensors. They all tell the computer the same information.

Even the computers themselves are pretty much doing the same thing. The only real variation from vehicle to vehicle is the programming of the computer.

The programming can vary widely. And it's this fact that makes the job of getting the computer to accept the HHO most challenging. I don't point this out to make the task look daunting, I'm only trying to point out what the task actually is. Once we can see what we have to do we can confront it and handle it in an orderly manner. It also helps to know that one size does not fit all when it comes to the task of handling the vehicle's electronics. But they can all be done.

OXYGEN SENSORSOXYGEN SENSORSWe always start out by adjusting the oxygen sensor's data. For this we use an EFIE (Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer, see photo). By adjusting the information coming from the oxygen sensors, in most cases, the vehicle will be solved.

In the past, we have usually treated only those oxygen sensors that are upstream of the catalytic




converter. However, when that isn't enough, there are plenty of other steps that can be taken to solve the problem.

Before proceeding with further recommendations and remedial actions, I'm going to assume you have already gone through the HHO System Debug Checklist above.

The most common reasons an HHO system is not working are simple errors can be caught by going through this list. It has the common errors that we have turned up on our tech support lines, trying to help people get results with their systems.

If points on the checklist are out for your vehicle, then adding further sensor handlings will not solve the project. Actually the things I will cover here are in the checklist, but at the very end. The idea is to solve the common and easily solved problems first before diving in to the more esoteric and expensive sensor handlings.

DOWNSTREAM OXYGEN SENSORSDOWNSTREAM OXYGEN SENSORSWith that said, after installing EFIEs on all upstream sensors4, if I still haven't reached my mileage goal, I will look at the downstream sensors5. Traditionally we have always "known" that only the upstream sensors need to be treated with an EFIE, because the downstream sensors aren't used in the air/fuel ratio calculations. Usually these downstream sensors are only used to monitor the health and efficiency of the catalytic converter. However, we have been finding more and more vehicles that do use the downstream sensors in their air/fuel calculations. A number of manufacturers document this usage. These include Chrysler/Dodge, Honda and Jeep.

There are other manufacturers that don't document this usage of downstream sensors, yet still have been found to be using them. Notable among these is the Ford F Series pickups. We've solved a number of projects by treating the downstream sensors on these trucks. We've also found vehicles from other manufacturers that throw codes if the downstream sensors are not treated. So even though they aren't using the downstream sensors for the calculations, they are still checking the upstream sensors, and can invalidate their use if the readings don't agree. In these cases we must also treat the downstream sensors.

To make it economical to treat two upstream and two downstream sensors on a V-6 or V-8 engine, we created the Quad Digital EFIE. It has two digital EFIEs for the upstream sensors, and two analog EFIEs for the downstream sensors. With this device, you can handle all of the oxygen sensors on your vehicle, and don't have to worry about whether the downstream sensors are causing a problem for you.

I now use the Quad Digital EFIE on all new vehicles with narrow band oxygen sensors, because it never hurts to treat the downstream sensors, and more often than not, will avoid "mysterious" problems later.

4 Upstream means closer to the engine; in this case, oxygen sensors in the exhaust manifold right outside the engine.

5 Downstream means further away from the engine, in this case AFTER the catalytic converter.




OTHER SENSORSOTHER SENSORSBy this point, most vehicles are done. They will be getting significant mileage improvement and that's about what you should expect from an HHO system. But if you are still getting low mileage improvement, and you have done the steps of the HHO System Debug Checklist, you may need to treat other sensors as well.

The MAP or the MAF will be the next sensor to address. Most vehicles have one or the other of these 2 sensors, but not both. If you do have both, you'll have to experiment to find out which one works best. I always start with the MAF in these cases, but some vehicles get better results treating the MAP. In any case, the same handling works on both devices. A Simple MAF/MAP Enhancer covers how to make your own MAF/MAP enhancer for a few dollars. A slightly more advanced circuit can be found in the next chapter.

These handlings only work with sensors that put out a simple voltage type signal to the computer. There are MAF and MAP sensors that put out a frequency signal, and currently no devices are available that work for these types. However, we are currently prototyping a universal MAF/MAP enhancer that will work on all types of sensor, including the frequency types, and this device should be available in our online store www.water4gas.com/1/fuelsaver-mpg.htm

The last sensors to address are the temp sensors. You'll probably have both of these, and they are the CTS and the IAT sensors. I have never adjusted these on my cars, but if I were not getting my results by doing the above sensor handlings, I would then adjust my temp sensors. You can do these with a resistor, but I would use a potentiometer. That way the adjustment can be find tuned. I would also try to use an OBD-2 reader while I was setting these so I could see the result. You want to end up with a setting that will make the temperature about 10 degrees hotter. The details of how to modify your temperature sensors can be found in the next chapter.

SUMMARYSUMMARYThere is no reason, today, not to get great gas mileage. All you need to do is:

1. Provide a good source of HHO to your intake,

2. Handle the electronics so they are not nullifying the improved combustion performance you now have.

That's all it takes.

With all the modern Electrolyzers that are being made today, there's no problem getting a good source of HHO. The electronics part can be a little tricky for a person dealing with them for the first time, but handling them is usually also very straightforward. Your best solution is to purchase an EFIE from www.water4gas.com/1/fuelsaver-mpg.htm and follow the installation instructions exactly. We recommend reading the next chapter very highly for further information about how to go about all of this, and to understand some of the underlying principles. But realize that you are only trying to achieve the two steps described above. Get these done, and you'll have the mileage you have been hoping for.

Good Luck!






CHAPTER 5CHAPTER 5ENFORCING THE MADENFORCING THE MAD ECU BACK TO SANITYECU BACK TO SANITY

TUNING FOR MILEAGE

Research and experiment by Mike Kehrli and Mike Holler, comments by Ozzie

THE NEEDTHE NEEDSo you installed one or several devices all claiming up to a 30% increase in mileage, but you are only seeing maybe a 10% gain. There are many devices and technologies on the market and the Internet that are based on sound science that can't seem to deliver the goods.

It has become painfully obvious by observing my apprentices on the mpgResearch Forum that a comprehensive Guide to Tuning is desperately needed. Simply making combustion more efficient these days isn't enough. The factory ECU is programmed for the factory hardware. Once you deviate from that basic recipe, the ECU is no longer able to deliver optimal results.

THE FIX? TUNING!THE FIX? TUNING!Tuning was taught in tech schools up until about 30 years ago. As the vehicles became more complex, there was less tuning required for optimal performance and mileage. Tech school grads coming into the work force these days are taught to follow flow charts, replace bad parts, and track down poor connections. For the younger generation, tuning is something they read about in magazines, but never get to experience. It isn't difficult, but requires a learning curve just like anything else. Don't get discouraged quickly. It may take a little time to get the hang of it, but you can do it.

Tuning a stock vehicle usually won't deliver much of an increase in mileage. Up to 20% gains have been reported, but typically fall into the 10% or less range. Once you add something to improve combustion efficiency, much larger gains are common. In fact, I've been seeing over 100 MPG regularly with Brown's Gas, fuel heaters, vaporizers, ozone, and other devices, almost always in combination.


GST #6



Let's break the tuning process down into bite-sized steps. A logical format makes the tuning process more like science and less like a mystical black art.

1. Verify the vehicle is in good working condition

2. Install your mileage device(s)

3. Lower your lean-out limits

4. Adjust your air/fuel mixture

5. Adjust your ignition timing

6. Readjust your air/fuel mixture.

Step 1: Verify Vehicle Condition

A common cause of vehicles fighting mileage gains is a hidden problem with the vehicle itself. Tired oxygen sensors, clogged EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation6) circuits, carboned throttle bodies, ignition components that are not up to par, partially clogged catalytic converters, defective sensors, and a whole host of other problems have been found. Usually the vehicle runs perfectly fine, no codes are set, and the stock mileage is typical for that type of vehicle. The owner assumes that the vehicle is in top operating condition because he/she has no reason not to.

When the proper tuning procedure is followed and mileage gains just won't come, go back and start nit-picking the vehicle apart. Check everything. You might even consider planning on a complete tune-up at this time. In fact, this would be a good time to upgrade to Pulstar Plugs, MPG Plus ignition wires, Blue Streak or Neihoff cap and rotor. Clean out your throttle body and PCV system. Install new filters and oxygen sensor. Make sure the basics are in order.

Step 2: Install Mileage Device

The next step is to install your mileage device or devices (such as Water4Gas Electrolyzer). Many people like to install upgrades one at a time to determine the overall effect each addition yields. Some like to just toss several on at a time. Usually finances dictate the one-at-a-time method. Be sure to install the device(s) properly. If it is a product you have purchased, follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter. If it is a device you have built from plans, perhaps from the internet, again, follow the instructions implicitly.

Any other modifications called for in the instruction manual should also be done at this time. Some devices require other changes in order to be effective. Without the other changes, the inventor cannot guarantee the results you seek. Short cuts usually short-cut your results.

6 For the differences between EGR, PCV and Catalytic Converter functions, visithttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/224901-emissions-101-a.html


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/224901-emissions-101-a.html



Step 3: Lower Lean-Out Limits

The ECU has parameters that it will not go beyond. The parameters that are correct for your modified vehicle almost always fall outside the range the ECU is prepared to operate. Combustion efficiency enhancing technologies will easily take your maximized operating conditions beyond what the ECU will tolerate. The solution is to change the parameters.

The ECU works similarly to our brains. It uses multiple inputs and controls multiple outputs. We have our 5 senses: hearing, sight, smell, taste, and touch.

Within each of these senses there are a range of different inputs possible. The ECU has its senses as well: MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure), TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), MAF (Mass Air Flow), ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature), IAT (Intake Air Temperature), Tach, O2 (oxygen sensor) and other inputs.

If the MAP sensor sees a given load, the TPS sees a corresponding throttle angle, the CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) sees a normal operating temperature, and the O2 sensor is saying the engine is too rich, the ECU will comply…to a point. When the ECU has leaned out the AFR (Air/Fuel Ratio) beyond what the programming claims is an acceptable range, the ECU will go into Open Loop and ignore the O2 sensor. It then reverts to Look-Up tables for its source of information. At this point, mileage will invariably go down, and often a trouble code is set.

Consider the conditions needed for the ECU to accept lean fuel commands. If the engine is warmer than it actually is, the ECU will accept leaner. If the engine is under less of a load, the ECU will want to deliver less fuel. If the incoming air is hotter, the ECU will accept lean commands more readily. If MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor equipped, less air entering the engine will require less fuel.

Now let's look at the particulars.


What NASA Says About Lean Mixtures

“Lean-mixture-ratio combustion in internal-combustion engines has the potential of producing low emissions and higher thermal efficiency for several reasons. First, excess oxygen in the charge further oxidizes unburned hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide. Second, excess oxygen lowers the peak combustion temperatures, which inhibits the formation of oxides of nitrogen. Third, the lower combustion temperatures increase the mixture specific heat ratio by decreasing the net dissociation losses. Fourth, as the specific heat ratio increases, the cycle thermal efficiency also increases, which gives the potential for better fuel economy.”

“The results were used to explain the advantages of adding hydrogen to gasoline as a method of extending the lean operating range. The minimum-energy-consumption equivalence ratio was extended to leaner conditions by adding hydrogen, although the minimum energy consumption did not change. All emission levels decreased at the leaner conditions. Also, adding hydrogen significantly increased flame speed over all equivalence ratios.”

NASA Technical Note D-8487, March 15, 1977 Lewis Research Center, National Aeronautics

and Space Administration, Cleveland, Ohio

(NASA note added by Ozzie Freedom)



CTS

One of the easiest ways to lower lean-out limits is to install a resistor across the CTS and IAT sensors in parallel with the sensor. A parallel circuit offers 2 paths of travel for the voltage. A cold CTS will have very high internal resistance. As it warms up, the resistance goes down. Adding a parallel resistor nets a lower total resistance value, thus sending a hotter temperature signal to the ECU. It should be noted that this trick applied to the IAT sensor will retard ignition timing in addition to lowering the lean-out limits.

Most of the world uses similar resistance values to equate a given temperature. The Ford based systems (including Mazda, Infiniti, and Jaguar) use much higher resistance values. This is important to know when selecting resistors. If you have a scan tool available to you, use it. Monitor the CTS temperature that the ECU sees. With your engine at operating temperature, check to see that the temp reading is close to the thermostat rating. If it is, proceed. If it isn't, check your cooling system for contamination or stuck thermostat.

You may need to do a coolant flush or repair before proceeding. Assuming you are getting reasonable numbers, try different resistors across the CTS to raise the temp reading about 10° F (for example, from 195° to 205°). Even though higher numbers will work, you will most likely run into cold start issues beyond the 10° offset. The average vehicle will use something like a 3.9K ohm resistor. Fords may like a 5K ohm or larger value. (a 7.5 K Ohm or 10 K Ohm "trimmer" or trim-pot may be useful to find the ideal point) (Ozzie F.)

If your cooling fan runs continuously with your setting, add more resistance to lower the temp reading. Any mileage gains from the hotter engine signal will be more than offset by the additional load on the alternator. If you have a rear-wheel-drive with a belt driven fan, you can still add too much temperature offset. The ECU has an internal cooling mode. After the engine overheats to a point, the ECU starts dumping copious (plentiful, rich) amounts of fuel. The excess fuel will evaporate, thus cooling the engine from the inside. However, at this point your mileage literally tanks.




IAT7

The IAT is less sensitive to cold start issues. You can add more temp to this signal than you can to the CTS. Just keep in mind that you are not only lowering your lean-out limits, you are also retarding your ignition timing. If you put a timing light on the engine as you adjust IAT values, you won't see the timing change. The timing changes under load. Hotter air is more prone to detonation. This is why the ECU retards the timing.

If you are tuning on the hottest day of the year, you may find out just how high of a signal you can generate before setting codes. Typically it is in the 240° F range. If you are tuning in the middle of February, then you can offset the signal from your base cold reading and things will be fine for now. Come June or August, this setting may be high enough to trip codes. Allow for this when tuning.

MAP8

It is important to address your load sensing system in order to keep your mileage gains. Often times addressing only a few of the ECU's inputs will allow you to tune for a mileage gain, only to have the adaptive memory take it away as time goes on. The load sensing devices give the ECU a clue as to what you are up to, and it won't tolerate it. By generating a lower voltage signal from the MAP sensor, harmony is restored, and your mileage gains are for keeps.

There are 2 types of MAP sensors on the market. Most of the world uses a version that has a 5 volt VREF (reference voltage, or in other words the signal), ground, and DC signal wire. The MAP is a type of potentiometer; like a radio volume knob. Instead of turning the knob with your hand, the knob is turned as the vacuum in the engine changes.

A high vacuum reading will give a low voltage signal. A low vacuum reading will give a high voltage signal. Low vacuum means the engine is under load and needs lots of fuel. Look at it this way, low signal voltage, low fuel requirements. High signal voltage, high fuel requirements.

If you raise the VREF, then the signal will be higher. If you lower the VREF, then the signal will be lower. A lower signal tells the ECU lower load. A relatively simple method of lowering the VREF is with an LM317T adjustable voltage regulator. If you are somewhat capable with electronics, you can build one for about $10 to $15.

7 How to locate the IAT sensor in your vehicle? There are specific guides per car make and model - search Google for "locating IAT Sensor" (without quotes): www.google.com/search?q=locating+iat+sensor

Or image search: http://images.google.com/images?q=locating%20iat%20sensor

8 I hear many readers say "MAP Sensor" when talking about the ENHANCER that tunes the MAP signal. The enhancer is not the sensor! The MAP Sensor is part of the car, while the enhancer is just that, an enhancer that we add to the car in order to fine-tuning the MAP signal. Also note that NOT ALL MODERN CARS HAVE MAP SENSORS. The MAP sensor is located on the intake manifold itself, just before the engine block, or mounted separately on the back of the firewall and connected with a thin vacuum tubing to the engine block. More on the MAP Sensor read www.autoshop101.com/forms/h35.pdf


http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h35.pdf

http://images.google.com/images?q=locating%20iat%20sensor

http://www.google.com/search?q=locating+iat+sensor



The parts you will need are:

1. LM317T adjustable voltage regulator

2. 220 ohm resistor (1/4 watt is sufficient)

3. 1K ohm multi-turn potentiometer (Trim pot)

4. Small heat sink for the LM317T

5. 3 different colors of 18 gauge wire

6. Enclosure (box).




The diagram above displays an alternative design to the MAP Sensor Enhancer described in Water4Gas Book 1.

The functional difference is that Mike's device uses a voltage regulator, LM317T, feeding from 12 Volts, to supply a different SUPPLY voltage to the car's sensor. DEMSE, the Dual-Edge MAP Sensor Enhancer that I've developed (see DVD 3 or a later chapter) simply takes the OUTPUT of the sensor - without changing its input - and attenuates (reduces) that output using a potentiometer.

Personally I prefer DEMSE because it gives me two KNOBS to play with at any given time. However, both designs will do the job of fine-tuning the MAP signal.

The LM317T comes in a TO-220 case. Looking at it from the front with the mounting tab at the top and the 3 pins at the bottom, solder the 220 ohm resistor across the 2 left pins. Run a jumper wire from the left pin to the center of your 1K pot. Run a ground wire to one of the outside legs of the pot. If you use one side, then clockwise will raise the voltage. If you use the other side, then counter-clockwise will raise the voltage. Bench test your unit to know which way it will work.

Run the right leg to a Key-On/Crank battery voltage source. It is important that you have voltage when the key is on AND when cranking. If you don't have voltage when cranking, the ECU will not see a MAP signal and usually won't start at all. Drill 2 holes in your enclosure; one for the wires and one to access the pot.

With your unit on the bench, apply battery voltage to the battery and ground leads. Check the voltage output. Adjust it to 5.0 volts to start with. To install it on your vehicle, cut the VREF wire going to the MAP. DO NOT TAP THE VREF WIRE COMING OUT OF THE ECU! This will affect all sensors using the same 5 volt signal and will deliver disastrous results. After you cut the wire, connect your adjusted voltage wire to the MAP sensor and tuck and tape the other end of the cut wire back into the harness. It is best to solder connections and seal with heat-shrink tubing.

Lowering the VREF voltage will lower your lean limits, but will also advance ignition timing. Less load equals more timing advance. More load equals less timing advance. Remember this when we get to step 5.

The other type of MAP sensor used almost exclusively on the Ford based systems is frequency based. It has a 5 volt VREF, ground, and frequency signal output. The method of dealing with the frequency based MAP sensors is different than that used for the DC voltage based MAPs. Simply cut the ground wire going to the sensor, then add a small amount of resistance. A good starting point is about 10 ohms. Your upper limits will be between 15 and 20 ohms, depending on the ECU's calibration. The more resistance, the more offset. Notice I didn't say 10K ohms. It takes very little resistance to accomplish the job. You may find an Ohm Ranger or small value potentiometer (more or less 30 ohm) helpful here. Note: Another tuner has found that his 90 Ford pickup needed higher voltages than described here - see his forum post.

User notes: "I have tested different resistance levels on both the input and ground circuits of the MAP. I have determined that adding resistance to the ground of the MAP does work, but not at the levels in the article. I have found you need a much higher resistance to


http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=120

http://www.ohmite.com/cgi-bin/showpage.cgi?product=ohm_ranger



achieve the desired outcome. I am hesitant to state an exact resistance as all vehicles are different but you should expect to be somewhere between 100 ohms to around 1000 ohms or more. I tested this by using a hand held vacuum pump while monitoring the Hz and changes at different vacuum levels and changed the resistance at each level. If you are looking into this mod I would highly recommend a multi turn pot for making adjustments. Multi turn will make it easier to fine tune. I have 10-turn 10k pots with counters and locks to make testing easier.One main issue I found is that the frequency changes were not fully equal at all vacuum levels with the same resistance. For example the resistance that changed the frequency 1 Hz at 20"hg [*see def. below] would change the freq at 0"hg by about 3-4 Hz."-Written by 'excite'

*hg: inches of Mercury, the usual unit for measuring vacuum.

Water4Gas Map Sensor Enhancer

This home-made device is very simple and low cost, and is suitable for tuning most MAP/MAF Sensors.

For its construction details see Book 1-B, the diagram below is brought here for reference and basic comparison.




MAF

There are a couple different styles of MAF sensors that have been employed over the years. Early versions were called Vane Air Flow (VAF) sensors. They had a spring loaded door that controlled a wiper arm across a resistive pad. There is a black plastic cover that, once removed, will allow access to this resistive circuit. Raising spring pressure will lower lean-out limits. You can shift the wiper arm to a clean spot on the resistive circuit to extend the life of your VAF while you're in there.

Some of the MAF sensors work like the typical MAP sensors in that they have a DC voltage IN, and a DC voltage signal OUT. They can be dealt with the same as the typical MAP sensor.

Most of the modern MAF sensors have a ground, battery voltage input, and frequency based output. These aren't that difficult to tune. I've seen complicated and expensive products that aren't much better than this trick. Just like the frequency based MAP sensors, cut the ground wire and install a small amount of resistance. Again, no more than 30 ohms, with averages in the 10 to 15 ohm range.

User notes: "The newer MAF sensors are 4 wire. If it's a 6 wire, 2 of the wires are for the IAT. As for altering the MAF, resistance in the tan wire with the blue tracer has worked well for me. The range I've used is in the 150k to 330k range. On '03 and newer Ford products, the resistance dropped down to the 25k to 50k range."

Step 4: Adjust the AFR

Once you have set the stage by lowering your lean-out limits, you can now adjust the AFR for better mileage. The exact method will depend on the type of O2 sensor your vehicle uses. There are 4 types currently on the market: old style oxygen sensor, AFR sensor, Titania sensor, and wide-band sensor. Each requires its own unique approach. Some vehicles may have 2 bank sensors. You'll have to address both equally.

Don't worry about the downstream sensors (the ones after the cat) as they only tell the ECU that the converter is working.

To do your adjustment, you want to monitor your Loop Status. If your ECU pops into Open Loop, any adjustments you make are irrelevant. You have to stay in Closed Loop. If you pop into Open Loop, your lean-out limits are still too high (or your oxygen sensor is bad). If you can install a scan tool to monitor Loop Status, do it. This is the easy way.

If you have an older vehicle that doesn't have data stream information, then hook a digital volt meter to the O2 signal wire. As long as the voltage is jumping around, you're probably in Closed Loop. If the voltage goes steady, you probably are in Open Loop.

As you begin to lean out the mixture you will probably feel an increase in power. There will be a peak in the power, then it will gradually taper off. After so much leaning out, it will be like you just fell off a cliff. There will be a dramatic loss in power, it will want to hesitate and stall. I try to tune about ½ way between peak and cliff.




Old Style O2 Sensor

The oxygen sensor was introduced in mass back in 1981 on GM vehicles. It has an operating range of 0-1 volt. The higher the voltage, the richer the detected AFR. The lower the voltage, the leaner the AFR. A rich mixture is a lean command. A lean mixture is a rich command. It is commonly called a Narrow-Band sensor because it is only accurate within a narrow range of AFR operation. Right at the 14.7:1 AFR, a small change in AFR yields a large change in voltage. As the engine goes leaner or richer from the 14.7:1, the voltage changes get smaller and smaller.

A device that has been used for several years is the Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer (EFIE) developed by George Wiseman of Eagle Research. The principle is to create a small amount of voltage offset that is electrically isolated from chassis ground. It is like a free-floating battery installed inline with the signal wire. This raises the voltage to the ECU indicating a richer-than-actual AFR.

If you have an older vehicle with loose parameters, you may be able to add as much as 0.450 volts to the O2 signal. If you have a newer vehicle with tight parameters, you may not be able to get away with more than about 0.280 volts. Experimentation will dictate what your ECU will tolerate.

The old single wire sensors are easy to spot the signal wire, since it is the only one. There have been 2-, 3-, and 4-wire sensors used over the years. You may have to use a manual to determine which wire is the signal wire. Usually on a 4-wire sensor, you have 2 white wires for the heating element, a gray wire that is ground, and a black wire for your signal out.

Another method that I have not personally tried, but comes with good recommendations is to drill out a spark plug anti-fouler for the mid-70s Ford products with the 18 mm plug. Install the modified anti-fouler into the exhaust where the O2 sensor normally goes, then screw the O2 sensor into the anti-fouler. This pulls the sensor out of the exhaust stream and allows for leaning out the AFR. Since I haven't tried it, I cannot guarantee results.

Wide Band Sensors

Good news! You can use the same EFIE on the signal wire of a wide band. The one wide band that I modified used the blue wire for the signal. Wide bands will have 5 wires. That's the dead give-away. They have been used widely on VWs and Mazdas.

AFR Sensors

AFR sensors operate under a totally different set of rules. The same sensor is used in 2 different ways by various OEMs (Original Equipment Manufacturers). One method involves putting a fixed voltage on the reference wire (white) and varying the current to maintain a fixed voltage on the signal wire (blue). Another method is to apply a fixed voltage and current to the reference wire, and monitor the voltage coming out. Either way, they are current devices, not voltage devices.

At the time of writing, the best tuning for this type of sensor is to use the Wide-Band EFIE developed by Mike Kehrli. More details below.




Titania Sensors

They work similarly to the traditional O2 sensors, but backwards. I haven't yet had the opportunity to deal with these, so I can only give you guesses on what will work. One possibility is to install an EFIE backwards so you are lowering the signal voltage. Another way might be to add resistance to the signal wire. The spark plug anti-fouler may also work. Fortunately, they were only used for about 3 years and only on select vehicles (mainly European such as Vauxhall, as well as a few Asian models such as Subaru).

Step 5: Adjust Ignition Timing

If you have a distributor, the solution is simple. Loosen the hold-down clamp and turn the distributor. If you have DIS (Distributorless Ignition System), COP (Coil On Plug), or a distributor that doesn't affect timing, then you have to play with the MAP and IAT signals to dial in the spark.

To adjust with the distributor, grab a vacuum gauge, timing light, and distributor wrench. Drive the vehicle down a relatively flat section of road at cruise speed. Watch your vacuum gauge. Pull over and either advance or retard the timing by about 4 degrees. If you increased the power and vacuum, adjust again by about 2 degrees.

If you lost power and vacuum, crank it the other way about 8 degrees and test again. You want the least amount of timing advance needed to maintain maximum power at cruise. Any more advance than that will increase the possibility of detonation, and will fight the piston on the compression stroke.

If you have the DIS or COP, adjust the IAT sensor reading by 10° F increments for maximum power. If you start high on your reading (smaller value resistor), start adding resistance to advance timing. If you have a near ambient reading (no or large value resistor), reduce parallel resistance to retard timing.

As stated earlier, adjusting the MAP VREF will alter timing. A lower VREF will advance timing. A higher VREF will retard timing. There is a balance between finding the right lean-out limit, and maximizing the timing.

Step 6: Readjust AFR

Improving combustion efficiency usually requires less timing advance to get the job done. The fuel burns faster and more thorough. Thus, it takes less time to convert the chemical energy in the fuel into kinetic energy at the crank. On the flip side, as you lean out the AFR, it takes longer to burn across the leaner mixture.

More timing advance is required. Sort of a catch-22. Once you have adjusted your ignition timing for maximum power, you may find that you can lean out your AFR a bit more. A leaner mixture requires more time for the flame to propagate across the cylinder. If you advanced your timing, try leaning out the AFR a bit more. If you retarded your timing, you might be able to slightly enrich the AFR and get better power and mileage.




OXYGEN SENSOR ADJUSTMENT - GENERALOXYGEN SENSOR ADJUSTMENT - GENERAL INFORMATION INFORMATION Almost all modern vehicles employ oxygen sensors to tell the vehicle's computer if the air/fuel mixture is too rich or too lean. The computer uses the information from the O2 sensor to determine if more or less fuel should be added to the mix in order to maintain the correct proportion.

Gas vehicle engines (as opposed to diesel engines) are designed to operate at an air/fuel ratio of 14.7 to 1. When these proportions are being supplied to the engine, a certain amount of oxygen will be detected in the exhaust by the O2 sensor, and this information is fed into the vehicle's computer. If more oxygen is sensed, the computer thinks the mixture is too lean (not enough fuel), and adds fuel to the mix. Likewise, if less oxygen is sensed, the computer thinks the mixture is too rich (too much fuel) and cuts back on the fuel fed to the engine.

There's a big problem with this scenario as soon as you start adding a workable fuel efficiency device. For any given air/fuel ratio, burned more efficiently, the oxygen content in the exhaust will rise. If you have two or more efficiency devices installed, even more oxygen will be present in the exhaust. The oxygen content rises as the fuel is burned more efficiently for a number of reasons. Chief amongst these are:

a) less fuel is being used to produce an equivalent amount of horsepower, and

b) less oxygen is being consumed to create carbon monoxide in the exhaust. The bottom line is there is more oxygen in the exhaust as the fuel burning efficiency is increased.

So, now that we have spent time and money to install a fuel efficiency device or two, and we are getting a more efficient fuel burn, what does the vehicle's computer do? It dumps gas into the mix in an attempt to get an oxygen reading in the exhaust equal to its earlier, inefficient setup. This will then negate the fuel savings of just about any efficiency device, and in some cases will actually cause an increase in fuel consumption, despite having a workable fuel efficiency device.

The Solution

The handling for this situation is simple. The signal coming from the O2 sensor needs to be adjusted to compensate for the increased fuel efficiency being achieved. Basically the added oxygen in the exhaust fools the computer into thinking the mixture is too lean, causing it to (incorrectly) richen the mix. We need to un-fool the computer so it continues to give us the same amount of gas as before. We do this by making it think there is less oxygen in the exhaust than there actually is. The amount of change to the signal has to be easily adjustable to accommodate the different types of efficiency devices that are available.

The oxygen sensor produces voltages to communicate the oxygen content to the computer. When the sensor reads below .45 volts, that means it's lean, and when it reads above .45 volts, it's saying the mix is rich. If you connect your volt meter to an oxygen sensor signal wire and ground, while the engine is running, you'll see the voltage is constantly changing, and you'll probably see voltages in the range of .3 to .7 volts or so. In actual fact, the voltage is changing back and forth from about .1 volt to about 1.0 volts, several times per second. But a hand held meter is not quick enough to show this.

The EFIE adds it's voltage to the sensor's voltage, which shifts the voltage that the computer receives towards rich. This causes the computer to provide less gas. Many




people think we're trying to fool the computer with an EFIE. That's actually not accurate. The extra oxygen in the exhaust because of a more complete combustion is what's fooling the computer. It's making the computer think the mix is too lean, and it's compensating by adding gas that is not needed. The EFIE is un-fooling the computer. All we want to do is get it back to giving us a 14.7 to 1 air/fuel ratio again.

It should be noted that an oxygen sensor handling device, by itself, is not a fuel efficiency device. It possibly could be used to control the vehicle's computer, and make the engine burn a little leaner, and this could possibly give a small increase in gas mileage. But this is not what it was designed to do. It was designed to complement, and in some cases make possible, increased gas mileage using other fuel efficiency devices.

If you need to purchase an EFIE for your project, you can find them at www.Water4Gas.com/1/fuelsaver-mpg.htm

FuelSaver-MPG specializes in accessories for fuel saving devices such as the EFIE and have a number of different models to suit different applications and budgets.

USING SCANGAUGE FOR FINE TUNING?USING SCANGAUGE FOR FINE TUNING?You can't use a ScanGauge when tuning an EFIE. The ScanGauge uses the oxygen sensor's data, which is being modified. As the ECU (and ScanGauge) think the AFR is 14:7 to 1 with the EFIE on and off. But with the EFIE on, it's actually leaner. The only way to test is by actual road tests. Once you get everything working the way you want, then you calibrate your ScanGauge to read correct MPG with your setup.

While tuning you should just read the ScanGauge to help you with your MAP sensor tuning, and also for your temp sensors if you tune them. The ScanGauge can tell you what temp it's seeing.

Between the MAP enhancer and the EFIE you'll have an effective control over the ECU and air fuel mix. You might want to do the temp sensor modifications as the final step. With all of these done, the ECU will not be able to relapse, because all of the sensors it uses to compare to the oxygen sensor are also modified, giving you stable gains.

After all is done, and you've maximized your mileage, then calibrate the ScanGauge to give you correct mileage readings (how to do that – see the ScanGauge manual).

EFIE: ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION ENHANCER,EFIE: ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION ENHANCER, DESCRIBED DESCRIBED As you can see from the title, EFIE stands for Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer. It was developed for fuel injected vehicles, and was found to be necessary in order for other fuel efficiency devices to work on them. This includes virtually all cars and trucks today.

Another thing that is fundamental about an EFIE, is that it is not a fuel efficiency device on its own. If all you did was add an EFIE to your car, with no other fuel efficiency system, you might gain a few mpg, but you also might not. The reason is that you are fooling the car's computer and making it run out of spec, or differently than it was designed for. The EFIE was designed to make the car run according to spec after another fuel efficiency device has been installed.


http://www.Water4Gas.com/1/fuelsaver-mpg.htm



Single EFIE >>

Dual EFIE >>

The purpose of the EFIE is not to provide fuel efficiency. It's purpose is to make it possible for other fuel efficiency devices to work. Basically a fuel efficiency device makes the engine think something is wrong, and makes it do things to adjust for this "wrongness". The actions it takes based on the oxygen sensor data, makes it negate the efficiency increase that would have been realized by the efficiency device.

The EFIE solves this by adjusting the signal to the computer so the computer is happy with the readings it's getting and it's making the correct adjustments for the various conditions of the engine. Basically, the oxygen sensor tells the computer it's oxygen readings by providing a voltage between 0 and 1 volt. In order to adjust this "data" the EFIE adds a small voltage to that delivered by the oxygen sensor.

The EFIE is highly adjustable. Adjustments to the trim screw can change the EFIE's voltage correction by tiny amounts; a millivolt or 2 (0.001 volt).

The EFIE works on a delay. When the engine is started, the oxygen sensors are cold and do not send correct data to the computer. We don't want to modify this data until the sensor is operating correctly. The EFIE will build up to its rated voltage offset over 3 to 5




minutes, longer in very cold weather. Also, when you turn the vehicle off, the EFIE loses its voltage offset slowly.

This means it will more quickly jump back into full operation if the car is re-started again after a short stop. This is by design, but you need to know about it when trying to adjust your EFIE. When you make a change, you'll see your meter start changing, and keep changing after you've stopped turning the adjustment screw. The bulk of the change will occur after the first minute, but if you have a sensitive meter, you will see it minutely increase for up to 10 minutes.

In practice, with a good fuel efficiency system installed, you might want to have the EFIE adjust the signal from about 250 - 400 millivolts. Complete installation instructions are given below.

If you would like to purchase a pre-built EFIE, you can find it at www.Water4Gas.com/1/fuelsaver-mpg.htm as well as a Dual EFIE unit, designed to handle 2 oxygen sensors here. Both of these units have been designed to be economical, easy to install, and easy to adjust to your particular car and fuel saver combination. And they come with full money back guarantees.

WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT MY OXYGENWHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT MY OXYGEN SENSOR?SENSOR?

How Many EFIEs Do I Need?

This question comes up a lot. There are literally thousands of models of car, and each has its own design. The number of oxygen sensors can vary from one to four or more. Do all of them need EFIEs to operate properly with fuel saving devices?

The short answer is, that all oxygen sensors on the engine side of the catalytic converter need EFIE devices. It is rare that there are more than 2 of these. Eight cylinder engines tend to have 2 sensors, one on each exhaust manifold, but often have only one. Six and four cylinder engines tend to have 1 sensor, but can have more. Regardless, all of these upstream sensors must be treated.

The sensors after the catalytic converter, or attached to it, are there to tell the engine computer when the catalytic converter has gone bad, but are not used to modify the calculations on how much gas to give to the engine. The upstream sensors are the ones telling the computer what it needs to know about the combustion mix.

What Type Of Sensor Do I Have?

This is an important question to answer. There are a number of different types of sensor, and some are handled differently. Oxygen sensors for many years were of a single type. These were more specifically called narrow band oxygen sensors, and EFIEs are designed to work with these. In recent years, a new type of sensor has come out, the wide band oxygen sensor and EFIEs are not designed to work with some of them.

The most easily identifiable form of wide band sensor is the one that has 5 wires. The 5-wire wide band sensors reportedly work with an EFIE. If you use an EFIE on one of these sensors, I would appreciate an email telling me how it works for you, the settings you used, etc, because I don't have any personal experience with these. But I'm told by reliable sources that they have used EFIEs successfully on 5-wire wide band sensors.





There is another variety of wide band sensor that uses 4 wires, that you must be aware of. These are not actually called oxygen sensors (although that's what they are). They are called Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) sensors. EFIEs are definitely known to NOT work with these sensors.

How do you know if you have an AFR sensor or narrow band oxygen sensor? You might get lucky and have it written on the vehicle information tag on your hood. Open the hood and look up. It may be written there. Otherwise, you will need some documentation for your vehicle. I don't mean the owner's guide that is given to you when you buy your new car. If you're going to be installing modifications to your engine, you should have a Haynes, Clymer or Chilton's manual for your car or truck, preferably Haynes as these are generally more informative. Another alternative is to get your wiring schematics from www.water4gas.com/1/vehicledata.htm

If you have an AFR sensor, it will be called such in the diagram. Otherwise it will be called, "Oxygen Sensor" or "Heated Oxygen Sensor" or sometimes HEGO (Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen) sensor. Lastly, I have found a new resource where you possibly can get all of this information for free at AutoZone's web site (look under "Repair Info" and after selecting your model and year, select "Wiring Diagrams" in the repair guide).

If you read the EFIE Installation Instructions below, you'll see there's another reason to have a good wiring diagram for your car. That is so you can find the wires for your sensor(s) up near the computer, where you can easily access them. Believe me, they are worth the money for that alone. But if you have any doubt about the type of sensor you have, they are doubly valuable.

If all else fails in determining what type of sensor(s) you have, use the EFIE Installation Instructions and read through section "1. Locate the oxygen sensor signal wire". This will describe how to determine which wires have which function from your oxygen sensor. If you have a narrow band sensor, you will find a signal wire that behaves as described in the instructions. If you have an AFR sensor, you will get different electrical phenomena entirely.

What Color is My Oxygen Sensor Wire?

The following link has a table that will help you identify the correct signal wire. First, identify the MAKE of the Oxygen Sensor itself (such as Bosch or NGK) for your car make (most major makes in the world). From there, it doesn't go by make year but by number of wires on the sensor. Then, look at the "SIGNAL +" and "SIGNAL -" line for that sensor type: http://www.yourhotcar.com/O2.htm

HOW TO READ YOUR EFIEHOW TO READ YOUR EFIEThe oxygen sensor gives its information to the vehicle computer by putting a voltage on its output wire. The voltage it produces is between .0 and 1 volts when measured against ground. However, when you're reading this voltage with a multimeter, it will show you a range of voltages of approximately .2 to .7 volts. The computer is able to read this constantly changing voltage, average it out, and adjust the fuel/air mixture accordingly.


http://www.yourhotcar.com/O2.htm

http://www.autozone.com/




Oxygen sensors have a warm up period before they operate properly. Some sensors just use the heat of the exhaust pipe to warm them. Others have an extra heater wire (and sometimes a separate heater ground too), used to heat the sensor more quickly.

Prior to the sensor becoming warm, it puts out an illegal voltage. The computer sees that the voltage is incorrect, and will ignore the data. The computer is said to be in "open loop". After warming up, the sensor will resume normal operation and will put out voltage as described above. See notes9

The EFIE has 2 test ports that you can plug the leads of your multimeter into. They are colored red and black, and you should plug in the leads with the same colors (for circuit board models, the red port is the same as the white wire, and the black port is the same as the green wire). When your leads are both plugged into the EFIE, you are reading only the voltage offset being produced by the EFIE.

You are not reading what the sensor is putting out, nor what the computer is reading. You are only reading the voltage that the EFIE is adding to the oxygen sensor's output, before it gets to the computer's input. Note, that if the EFIE is turned off, then this reading will be 0 volts, as the sensor will be connected directly to the computer, and the EFIE will have no affect whatsoever.

So that is how you set the voltage that the EFIE is adding to the sensor's output. Both leads are to be plugged into the 2 EFIE test ports. To test the voltage that the oxygen sensor is putting out, attach your red meter lead to the EFIE's black test port, and your black meter lead to vehicle ground.

If the car is running, then you should see a constantly fluctuating voltage between .2 and .7 volts on your meter. If you were to hook up an oscilloscope or other high speed testing device, you would see that the voltages actually range from 0 to 1 volts or so:

To test the voltage that the computer is receiving, plug your red meter lead into the EFIE's red test port, and attach your black meter lead to ground. Note that this will read exactly the same as the previous test if the EFIE is turned off. If the EFIE is on, you will read the voltage the oxygen sensor is producing plus the voltage being added by the EFIE. Let's say you set the EFIE to .25 volts. Let's also say that when reading the

9 When the sensor is cold, some Chrysler and Jeep vehicles add a higher voltage to the signal - wait till the engine is really hot.

If the O2 signal does NOT change when you depress the gas pedal, the sensor could be faulty, or it could be a WIDE BAND O2 sensor.




oxygen sensor in the previous paragraph, you saw a fluctuating voltage between .2 and .7 volts. When reading the computer's input voltage you would then see a constantly changing voltage in the range of .45 and .95. This is due to the .2 to .7 volts the sensor is producing, plus .25 volts that the EFIE is adding.

Note10

In a practical sense though, you should never need to take these last 2 readings, unless you suspect that the sensor is malfunctioning. The only measurement you need to take is between the 2 test ports, so you can see what voltage offset the EFIE is producing.

Lineup

The EFIE line offered by www.Water4Gas.com/1/fuelsaver-mpg.htm has previously just included the Single EFIE Deluxe and the Dual EFIE Deluxe. These have been, and remain, our flagship model. It is the recommended model to use for any hobbyist who is installing a fuel savings system in his car, and needs a device for controlling the output of the oxygen sensor.

However, there has been increasing demand for just the circuit itself, that can then be used in a combined electronics package, either created by the end user, or by another fuel saver manufacturer. To meet this demand, 2 new EFIE lines have been created.

Both of these product lines incorporate the same circuit board as our Deluxe models. There is no difference in the quality of the board or the parts. The only difference is in the packaging as described and shown below.

EFIE BASIC SERIESEFIE BASIC SERIESThe EFIE Basic Series include both a single and dual version. It doesn't not include the Deluxe series features of an enclosure, on/off switch, test points or panel mounted adjustment pot (pot = potentiometer, the screw used to adjust the EFIE). It is an EFIE circuit board, with an onboard adjustment pot, and approximately 5" of hook up wire for power, ground, oxygen sensor, and computer connections. The whole unit is rubber dipped in a spiffy blue colored material to protect its components and to insulate it electrically.

10 Now that we've added 0.25 volts (for example), there are longer periods of “Too Rich” and shorter periods of “Too Lean!”





EFIE CIRCUIT BOARD SERIESEFIE CIRCUIT BOARD SERIESThe second new line of EFIEs, the EFIE Circuit Board Series, is for the hobbyist or manufacturer that wishes to incorporate an EFIE circuit board into his own electronics package, and will supply his own connections and housing. It is a duplicate of the Basic EFIE series above, but is not dipped in rubber. It comes with an onboard adjustment pot, and approximately 5" of hook up wire for power, ground, oxygen sensor, and computer connections. You can see units of this type below.

EFIE DELUXE SERIESEFIE DELUXE SERIESConcurrent to the release of these new models, FuelSaver-MPG are incorporating a long needed price adjustment to the Deluxe line. The EFIE Deluxe now comes in a spiffy gray colored case.




NEW! DUAL WIDE BAND EFIENEW! DUAL WIDE BAND EFIEMike Kehrli has developed and is manufacturing the world's first EFIE that is designed specifically for use with wide band oxygen sensors. It will work with all types of wide band and AFR (Air/Fuel Ratio) sensors. To be clear, it is the EFIE of choice for both 4-wire and 5-wire oxygen sensors. Also note there is a variation of the 5-wire sensor that uses 6 wires. This device will work with these too. Please note, it will NOT work with narrow band sensors. For these, you must use any of our other EFIE product lines, such as the Dual EFIE Deluxe.

Note that this product is only available in a dual configuration at this time. This means that this device will control 2 wide band oxygen sensors. For vehicles with single wide band oxygen sensors, just don't hook up the other circuit.

This model comes in a mountable box, and encased in protective plastic. The wiring is 18 gauge, with quick disconnects that can unplug from the device for easy installation. It has one potentiometer that controls the air fuel ratio adjustment for both sensors.

An LED shows when the unit is powered up. By using the included rubber cap to cover the potentiometer, the unit becomes waterproof.

These units have a start up delay of about 45 seconds. After approximately 25 seconds the unit will start ramping up. At 45 secs it will reach it's full adjustment to the sensor's signal. This delay is by design so that the fuel mix will be richer during engine start up.




EFIE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONSEFIE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS0. Install your fuel efficiency device The EFIE is not intended to be a fuel saver by itself. You should install a device that is designed to get more energy out of the same fuel, such as a hydrogen gas Electrolyzer, a fuel vapor production unit, or another device that gets more power out of the same fuel by increasing the efficiency of the burn.

1. Locate the oxygen sensor signal wire The easy way to do this is to look it up in your Haynes, Clymer or Chilton manual for your car. If you don't have one of these, obtain the information at www.water4gas.com/1/vehicledata.htm

Using the wiring diagram data, you can get the wire color of the signal wire, and hopefully gain access to it up in the engine compartment, where it routes to the computer.

If none of these options are available, you'll need to locate the oxygen senor and then locate the signal wire by testing. The sensor can have 2, 3 or 4 wires, and you have to know which one is the signal wire. If you have 4 wires they will be:

• Heater 12 Volts +• Heater ground• Oxygen sensor signal +• Oxygen sensor signal ground.

If you have 2 or 3 wires, then you can have a common ground, or no heater wires etc. The simplest setup is a single wire, which is the signal wire and the sensor get's its ground from the exhaust pipe. You can use the following procedure to narrow down which wire is which:

• Disconnect the wire harness, turn on the ignition and probe for a wire that produces 12 volts. This will be the heater circuit.

• Next, find the 2 wires that produce exactly 0 volts. These will be the heater ground and the signal ground. The remaining wire should be your signal wire.

• Reconnect the wiring harness, then strip a little insulation from the signal wire and measure it to ground with the engine running. You'll get voltage readings constantly fluctuating between 0 and 1 volt, if you have the signal wire. Note that you have to let the engine warm up a bit before you will get these voltages from the sensor.

• Cut this wire at a convenient location for connecting the EFIE. We'll call the sensor side of this cut the sensor wire, and the other side of the cut, the computer wire.

Note: rarely an oxygen sensor wiring harness will have more than 4 wires. In this case, the sensor is possibly a "wide band" oxygen sensor. The EFIE has been reported to work with 5-wire wide band sensors.

Once you have determined which is the sensor's signal wire, you want to get it located up close to the computer. If you used a manual, or wiring diagram, you probably have already located the wire at the computer's wiring harness. If you had to figure out the wires at the sensor itself, then try to find the same wire at the computer's wiring harness. It should be the same colors, but test it with an ohm meter to be sure.





Sometimes they use the same colors for different things. Even if it's a pain now, it's worth it to get the signal wire located up by the computer. This makes cutting into it and hooking up the EFIE much easier.

2. Locate 12 volt power and ground You need to ensure that you have switched power, not power directly from the battery. You don't want the EFIE running 100% of the time. It's not that the unit couldn't run 100% of the time, it probably could. But it would slowly drain your battery.

Most of the fuel efficiency devices need switched power as well, and you can often piggy back onto them. Note that the EFIE draws negligible power. You can attach it to any circuit. The best choice for a voltage source is a fuel efficiency device, such as a Hydrogen generator (Electrolyzer). That way the EFIE only activates when the fuel efficiency device is turned on. Note that when power is shut off to the EFIE, or the EFIE's switch is turned off, the original connection between the oxygen sensor and the computer is re-established. If connecting to your fuel saver's power is inconvenient or inappropriate, just use any circuit that is accessory key switched. Your electrical diagram can come in handy here, and if you don't find another device to attach to, you can usually find a spare circuit in the fuse box (you may have to add a fuse). One installer used the oxygen sensor's heater power for his EFIE's power, and this is perfectly acceptable.

Ground can be the vehicle body, engine block or ground from another device, including the ground for the oxygen sensor itself. Just make sure that whatever you choose to use for ground has a negligible resistance (less than 10 ohms) when tested against the negative battery terminal of your car.

3. Mount the EFIE You can use the mounting ears to screw down the EFIE to a suitable location on the vehicle body or firewall. Some people like to mount the device inside the passenger compartment of the car. There are some considerations about where you mount your EFIE that should also be reviewed:

The EFIE is not waterproof. If you mount it under the hood, you will have to take care to cover it if you need to steam or spray clean your engine. If this is something you regularly do, you may want to mount the EFIE in the passenger compartment where it will be protected.

If you live in a cold climate, where temperatures are expected to be below freezing a significant number of days per year, you will want to ensure that the EFIE is mounted where it will be warmed, either by the engine, or inside the passenger compartment. Below freezing temperatures cause the EFIE to come up to its voltage offset very slowly unless it is physically warmed. This is because it doesn't generate much heat of its own. In most cases this can be accomplished by mounting your EFIE in the upper rear of the engine compartment, close to the firewall, which will allow it to benefit from trapped engine heat. Newer EFIEs now come with jumpers that if set will cause the EFIE to generate more heat. These were intended for use in very cold climates. Find J1 and J2 on your circuit board. Set the following jumpers for increasing amounts of heat: J1, J2, J1 and J2.

4. Attach the wires The EFIE multi-conductor wire has 6 colors: red, black, white, green, and (in the Dual EFIE) blue and brown. Connect the red to your power source. Connect the black to




ground. Connect the green wire to the oxygen sensor. Connect the white wire to the computer. For Dual EFIE units, the brown wire goes to the 2nd oxygen sensor, and the blue wire goes to the 2nd sensor's computer line. Hopefully you've been able to locate all these wires up by the computer in an easily accessible location. But if so, be sure not to cut them too close to the computer so that you have plenty of slack to work with them.

You should solder them and use heat shrink tubing to insulate the connections from other wires. If you don't have heat shrink, you can use electrical tape. I personally always use heat shrink. It's more professional looking, and less likely to unravel later into a sticky mess.

EFIE Connection Diagram

5. Adjust the EFIE You will now need to adjust your EFIE. They do not come from the factory with a particular starting voltage preset, so you'll have to set the initial voltage. I have found that .200 volts (200 millivolts) is a good starting point. The controls of the EFIE are shown and further described below:




EFIE Controls

The picture above shows a Single EFIE Deluxe, with the controls marked. The toggle switch turns the EFIE on/off, and the red LED glows only when the EFIE is on and has power. Note that when the EFIE is powered off, it makes the connection between the oxygen sensor and the computer, the same as it was before the EFIE was installed. If you ever have need to reconnect the oxygen sensor directly to the computer, just turn the EFIE (or Dual EFIE) off, and this will be accomplished. Also, if power is shut off to the EFIE, you'll get the same result regardless of which position the switch is in.

The red and black test points will accept and hold in place the electrodes (probes) from a multi-meter. The black point is attached to the oxygen sensor lead, and the red point is attached to the lead that outputs to the computer. Just push the leads in and they will be held in place by spring loaded clamps. With your probes in the two test points, you'll be reading the voltage offset being supplied by the EFIE, and this is the setup you need for EFIE adjustment.

The adjustment screw adjusts the voltage offset between the signal from the sensor, and what the computer "sees". Turn the screw in a clockwise direction to increase the offset, and counter-clockwise to reduce the offset, and your multimeter will be reading the offset amount. The signal adjustment potentiometer (or "pot" for short) is designed to turn 18-20 full revolutions. This is so that the voltage offset can be tuned to a fine degree of control. Adjustments as small as a few millivolts can be made.

Most computers will see 425 millivolts from the EFIE, plus the sensor's voltage as high all the time. In other words even when the sensor is putting out it's lowest voltage, when the EFIE adds 425 millivolts, the computer will think the sensor is reading high. The computer will think the sensor is damaged, because it reads high all the time, and will ignore its data. If this occurs you may or may not get a check engine light alerting you to the "defective oxygen sensor", but for sure your gas mileage will get very bad. So you should never operate your EFIE this high. The exact voltage is .45 volts to the ECU.




Above that voltage is "high" and below that voltage is "low". The ECU must see transitions from low to high several times per second or it will "know" that the sensor is bad and then just start merrily adding gas.

It is possible to damage the adjustment pot by turning it past its lowest or highest values. However, I've turned them at least 10 full revolutions past the end with no ill effects. But there is a limit to how many times you can turn them, and I have ruined one once by turning one too far. The thing to do, is only turn them with your multimeter hooked up. When you get down below 50 millivolts, and further turning doesn't change the amount, stop. And the same applies at the top end of the scale. In actual practice you should never need to be at the extremes.

When it comes to making the actual adjustments to the EFIE for your particular car and fuel saver combination, I recommend starting out with 200 millivolts. The process of adjusting the EFIE is trial and error. If you're setting the EFIE above 350 millivolts you're starting to get pretty high. Watch for symptoms of too lean a mix such as rough engine, lack of power, "check engine light" coming on, etc. When these show up, adjust it back down until the symptoms go away. Note, some computers will accept an EFIE setting of over 400 millivolts. This is not the norm however, unless you take some of the actions discussed at the beginning of this article.

A couple of adjustment tips:

1. If your "check engine" light comes on, you've likely set the offset too high, and the computer thinks your oxygen sensor is on the fritz (defective). This can also be caused by mis-wiring the EFIE, so make sure you're hooked up correctly.

2. If you lose horsepower, you've got an incorrect setting, as fuel efficiency devices should increase horsepower proportionately with the increase in MPG (as well as decrease emissions).

3. If you have a high temperature probe, run down the highway with the fuel efficiency devices turned off, long enough to get the engine up to full operating temperature, and note the temp of your exhaust pipe, near the exhaust manifold. As you increase your voltage offset, this temperature may increase. Don't let it raise more than 180 degrees from your initial test.

You will probably find adjusting the EFIE to be frustrating at first. When you turn the adjustment screw, the voltage starts raising (or lowering) and keeps on doing so long after you've stopped turning the screw. It can take up to 10 minutes or more for the voltage changes to completely settle down. I have learned to set EFIEs similarly to balancing a long stick on your finger. You have to turn the screw farther than you expect the final position to be to get the EFIE's voltage changing in the direction you want.

Then when the voltage gets close to your target voltage, quickly start turning the adjustment screw the opposite way until the voltage stops increasing. Once the voltage is at your target value, then you just make small adjustments either way to get the voltage to settle down. But note you'll want to check the voltage some minutes later to make sure it hasn't continued to drift to a different value.

Another small detail that might throw you if I didn't point it out. When an EFIE is first connected to a vehicle and powered up, the voltage will go higher than normal, and then slowly settle back down. This is without changing the adjustment. This settling out period can take from 5 to 10 minutes or more. The primary manifestation of this is when




you make your first voltage setting, then 5 minutes later find it has changed. This is normal. Just go ahead and re-set the voltage you want. After the EFIE is acclimatized to your vehicle you won't see this phenomena again.

These are the basics. If you run into trouble in your installation, post questions on the support forum. I can use the feedback to improve the guides here, as well as answer questions others may have as well.

NOTES FOR INSTALLING CIRCUIT BOARD & BASIC EFIENOTES FOR INSTALLING CIRCUIT BOARD & BASIC EFIE MODELSMODELSThis section is not intended to replace the EFIE Installation Instructions. It is merely trying to give you the differences between the circuit board models and the Deluxe models, so that you can use those instructions with your device.

The circuit board series and the Basic series are the same. The Basic series units have just been dipped in a protective, insulating material. These models are installed the same way (electrically) as the deluxe models. The directions that tell wire colors and what they connect to, are the same for the circuit board models.

Rather than using the switch on the Deluxe model, you will have to switch power to the red wire yourself. Another thing you'll want to address is a way to easily make connections to the white and green wires for making adjustments to the EFIE.

In the Deluxe model, the white wire connects to the red test port, and the green wire connects to the black test port. Instructions that ask you to make measurements to these ports can be done by connecting to the white and green wires from your circuit board. For Dual units, on the 2nd EFIE, the blue wire connects to the red test port and the brown wire connects to the black one.

The pictures below show the EFIE circuit boards. Note that the photo of the Dual circuit board shows the parts for both EFIEs on the board, designated by the numbers 1 and 2. The final picture below shows the newest version of our Single EFIE that you will start seeing more of. It's the same design as the previous board, but uses surface mount parts which allows the board to be smaller.

Voltage Adjustment Potentiometer

The voltage adjustment potentiometer is the main adjustment for the EFIE. This is where the user adjusts the EFIE for his particular vehicle and fuel saving device(s). On the Deluxe series models this adjustment is mounted on the enclosure, so the circuit board will not have an R6 or R6A potentiometer on the circuit board.

Range Adjustment Potentiometer

This function has been discontinued. If you wish to find out more about it, please see "EFIE Range Adjustment Instructions" below. I recommend that this pot never be touched except by advanced users.




Dual EFIE Circuit Board

• R6: Voltage Adjustment - EFIE #1 • R6A: Voltage Adjustment - EFIE #2 • R4: Range Adjust - EFIE #1 • R4A: Range Adjust - EFIE #2 • J1/J2: Heater Jumpers

Note that the wire colors for the Dual EFIE circuit boards are the same as for the Deluxe model. White/Green are used for EFIE #1, and Brown/Blue are used for EFIE #2.




Single EFIE Circuit Board

Heater Jumpers

We have found that extremely cold weather can adversely affect the functioning of an EFIE making it take longer to arrive at its set point. Folks that live in a climate where it is below freezing a significant number of days per year are advised to set these jumpers. J1 will provide moderate heating, J2 will provide about double the amount of J1, and setting both jumpers will provide the maximum amount of heat.

Use both jumpers in New England for instance where it is too cold for human habitation from November to March each year. If you change the jumper settings, note your voltage setting beforehand, and then you'll probably need to re-adjust the voltage slightly after the change.

Test Points

The Deluxe series EFIEs have test points built in that you can plug your volt meter leads into for the purpose of setting the EFIE. Other tests can be done with these test points as covered in the section "How to Read Your EFIE" above. You will need to provide access to these test points yourself so you can set your EFIE and do these other tests.

On the Single EFIE circuit board models, the white wire connects to the red test point, and the green wire connects to the black test point. For Dual models you also have a blue (or another white) that connects to the red test point for EFIE #2, and a brown (or another green) that connects to the black test point of EFIE #2.




By giving yourself access to these wires, you will be able to follow any instructions given for the test points in the Deluxe series, by connecting your meter leads to these equivalent wires. Note: be sure these wires aren't allowed to contact other wires or ground, or the EFIE and your oxygen sensor will not work until the condition is corrected.

EFIE EFIE RANGE ADJUSTMENTRANGE ADJUSTMENT INSTRUCTIONS INSTRUCTIONS Important Note: The range adjustment feature has been discontinued for single EFIE models. It has proven to cause more confusion in users, than it has been of use, and it's just not needed in a modern EFIE. Voltages above .45 on an EFIE cannot be used. If the computer never sees a voltage below .45 volts, then it will "know" that the sensor is damaged and will ignore it. So, increasing the EFIE's range is not a valid use. Decreasing the range is also not needed as modern EFIEs are accurate across their entire range of voltages. Therefore the function has been discontinued. There are EFIEs in existing stock that will still have the range adjust pot installed, and this article will still apply to these. Also, it has been found that Dual EFIEs require calibration, and have therefore retained the pot that can be used for range adjustments. Finally, the range adjustment pot location has been retained on the circuit board. If some valid use for this feature comes up, then the board can be easily modified to again allow range adjustment.

If you have an early version FuelSaver-MPG EFIE (photos below), you may want to look at the older version of this file here: http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/doc/RangeAdjustOld.html

Earlier Versions of EFIE with Range Adjustment:


http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/doc/RangeAdjustOld.html



Increasing the voltage range of the EFIE is not the only reason for changing the EFIE's range. If you find that you are getting your best mileage increases at .200 volts, for instance, you may want to decrease the EFIE's range to go to a maximum of .250 volts.

The advantage is that the EFIE's front panel adjustment screw is more sensitive the closer you get to the EFIE's maximum voltage. By this I mean that you can turn the adjustment screw a full turn to increase the output by 20 millivolts when close to the maximum voltage, whereas it might take only a quarter of a turn at the bottom end of the EFIE's voltage range.

This allows you to set your voltage offset very precisely, more easily. However, I run my EFIE at about .225 or so, and I have never changed its range. This usage is not needed, and I don't particularly recommend it. But for you habitual tinkerers, this can be done.

OK, so if you've gotten through the warning section and are still ready to go, here's how it's done:

1. Adjust your EFIE to its maximum setting. The quickest way to do this is to back off the adjustment screw until your meter reads below 50 millivolts or so. Then turn it clockwise 20 turns. When getting close to the EFIE's lowest setting the voltage drops quickly, without the time delay you experience at higher voltages.

At the top end you have to wait for many minutes to see if it is at it's maximum voltage, or, if you rush it, you may turn the screw too many times and lose track of where you are.

2. Open the EFIE's case and then see the photos below for your model of EFIE, Single or Dual. Find the range adjustment potentiometer on your EFIE's circuit board. Note that the pots marked "Voltage Adjust" will not be on a Deluxe model EFIE. This is because the Deluxe version is adjusted by an external pot mounted on the box. Note that the Single EFIE in the photo has no range adjustment pot. But if a pot is in that location, that's the range adjustment.

3. Turn the range adjustment potentiometer very slightly counter-clockwise to increase the EFIE's voltage range. Note that very small adjustments to this pot make a large change to the EFIE's range. Also note that you will have to wait for some minutes to find out what the full result of your adjustment is due to the large capacitor in the circuit.




4. When your meter reads the voltage that you wish to have as the top end of your EFIE's range, then adjustment is done. Replace the back on the case.

5. Re-install the EFIE into your vehicle and be sure to adjust it, as it's currently set to its new maximum value.

ADVANCED EFIE DESIGN – BUILD YOUR OWNADVANCED EFIE DESIGN – BUILD YOUR OWNBuilding your own EFIE will probably not be a big money saving proposition. In fact, if you give a value to your time spent on the project, and figure you should get minimum wage for that time, you will probably lose money. I'm not telling you this to discourage you from doing it.

If you're a hobbyist and want to know the ins and outs of the device intimately, and take pleasure in building a project such as this, then by all means go for it.

However, if you're just trying to save money, you'll be disappointed by the few dollars you save and the amount of hours of work it takes to do so. Okay, fair warning. If I haven't taken the wind out of your sails, then read on:

The EFIEs that FuelSaver-MPG.com are currently producing are based on the design originated by Eagle-Research.com. Eagle Research have produced the most advanced design of its kind that I am aware of, and if a better design existed somewhere, I'm pretty sure I would have at least heard of it. Their design is not patented and is open source, meaning anyone can build devices based on that plan without patent or copyright infringement.

However, since the cost of the plans is minimal ($9 last I checked), if you want to build your own EFIE, you must first purchase the plans/manual from Eagle Research. You can get them here: www.eagle-research.com/products/pfuels.html

I'm not giving out for free, the benefit of their research, when it can be obtained for such a reasonable amount. However, what I will give you is the benefit of my subsequent research into the design, and how to end up with an even better product.

Where to Find Your Parts

You can get many of your parts from Radio Shack. Resistors, diodes, and your LED (if used), wire and circuit board material can be used from Radio Shack. But the following parts, should not be purchased from Radio Shack, as you will get parts not made for an automotive environment. The voltage regulator, the 555 timer chip and the electrolytic capacitors will not be adequate.

Radio Shack's versions of these parts are designed for use in temperatures from 0 to 85 degrees centigrade. Automotive parts are supposed to be rated for temperatures of -40 to 125 degrees centigrade. You may think that you won't be under freezing much and 85 degrees C is a pretty high temp.


http://www.eagle-research.com/products/pfuels.html

http://www.eagle-research.com/


http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65



However, you don't want to even be close to the rated extremes of your parts. You want to be well within their operating minimums and maximums.

So get these parts from a larger outfit that has them in the automotive specifications ranges, such as DigiKey, Allied Electronics, Newark or Mouser. They cost, at most, a few cents more. Allied is probably the cheapest, but Digikey is nearly as low, and has a wider selection of the parts you will need. Check the ratings on them and get minimally -40 to 105 C, but preferably get -40 to 125 C. I've listed below, some Digikey part numbers that you can use.

The Voltage Regulator

I recommend using a 9 volt voltage regulator instead of 12 volts. The problem with a 12 volt unit is it drops 2 volts minimum from its input voltage. If your input voltage is 14 volts or more, then the output will be 12 volts. However, if the input voltage is 12 volts (for instance), the output voltage to your EFIE is going to be 10 volts due to the minimum 2 volt drop in voltage by the regulator. When your engine is running the alternator is charging the battery, and is producing about 13.5 volts, but it's fluctuating slightly all of the time. Therefore the output of the regulator will be 11.5 volts, and mirroring the car's voltage fluctuations. This must be eliminated for good steady EFIE voltage output. I use 9 volt voltage regulators and they are more than adequate for our purposes.

Note that there are 12 volt regulators that have lower voltage drops. These are rarer and generally more expensive. They are often labeled "LDO" for Low DropOut. These could also be used, but beware that some of these still have as much as 1.5 volts of voltage drop, which will still be quite close to having the same problem. If you find one with a .5 voltage drop, this would be adequate as well.

Specific Part Numbers

The only part you'll have trouble finding is the transformer. You'll probably just want to use the one I use in the EFIEs I manufacture. I get them from DigiKey and the part number is listed below. Its specs are almost an exact match to the one specified in the manual, and I've found that they are interchangeable. I've given a specific spec for the timer. I've found this timer to be a superior chip to others in the same family, and I recommend you use it. C1 should be 10 nF. R5 should be 3.3K. R4 should be about 4.4K, but I've found that substituting a 10K board mounted variable resistor here allows me to set the upper limit of the EFIE to a more precise value. This is even more important when building a unit with new parts. It allows you to fine tune the output.

I will give the part number of the variable resistor below, if you desire to do the same. Otherwise just use a 4.4K resistor.

C3 in the manual is a large electrolytic capacitor. Follow the specs in the manual, but make sure it's rated for -40 to 105 C. I don't think you'll find one rated to 125 C, so you'll have to settle for 105 C, which will be fine. I use a 220uF as I like that it comes up to voltage more quickly.

1. Timer: Texas Instruments TLC555QDR - DigiKey: 296-10341-6-ND

2. 9V Voltage Regulator: DigiKey: 497-4616-5-ND

3. Transformer: DigiKey: MT4207-ND


http://www.digikey.com/

http://www.mouser.com/

http://www.newark.com/

http://www.alliedelec.com/




4. PCB Mounted Pot (R4): DigiKey: 490-2875-ND or 3296W-103LF-ND

NOTES FOR VERY COLD CLIMATESNOTES FOR VERY COLD CLIMATESWhen using the EFIE in temperate climates, it operates normally and can be expected to maintain a steady and reproducible voltage offset. However, in very cold climates, such as in locations where it is below freezing a significant number of days per winter season, temperature becomes a consideration. If the EFIE cannot warm up to a normal room temperature, it will read lower than it will when warm. As the EFIE draws almost no power, it also doesn't generate much heat, and cannot warm itself when in extreme cold weather. In this case it will generate a fraction of its normal offset voltage. This can be almost completely handled by merely mounting the EFIE to the rear of the engine compartment, where engine heat tends to be trapped by the firewall, even when driving down the highway. Of course you can mount the EFIE inside the passenger compartment, where it will be heated.

Using the EFIE Manual from Eagle Research, and the design modifications above, you can create the most advanced unit of its kind available anywhere. If you wish to buy your EFIE pre-made, you can get them from www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/store/. Both Single EFIE and Dual EFIE models (for cars with 2 oxygen sensors) are available.

If you have trouble building your EFIE or need to clarify these instructions, post your question at www.fuel-saver.org. Your reply will most likely be from me, and I answer up there quite quickly. Good Luck!

(MpgMike)

Additional data by Ozzie:

WHAT TO DO IF THE ENGINE CHECK LIGHT COMES ON?WHAT TO DO IF THE ENGINE CHECK LIGHT COMES ON?The auto engineers call it "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" or "MIL". For us, it's simply the "Check Engine Light" or "CEL". Depending on the vehicle you're experimenting with, the check engine light may come on. Your ScanGauge (or another scanner) may help in identifying the error code (see error guide below). However, assuming that your vehicle is in good shape, the check engine light will probably come on for one reason: too good of performance!

In Water4Gas, when we talk about "good performance", we mean better (higher) gas mileage and better (lower) emissions. What happens is, sometimes the light comes on because the ECU detects "unusual activity" in terms of performance. Newer cars, by the way, are more sensitive than older cars. You can try resetting your ECU by disconnecting the battery (more details below) and tweaking the settings of your system so they don't trigger the light.

However, some vehicles are too sensitive about emission standards and will display the check engine light no matter what you do. Some cars get check engine lights after a mere muffler change! This does not mean that your vehicle is malfunctioning. It only means that the ECU has detected a change in EMISSIONS and FUEL CONSUMPTION. Erroneously, better performance is detected as a faulty condition.


http://www.fuel-saver.org/

http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/store/



I am sure the auto designers, as well as many of their engineers, are aware of their design error, but their hands are (currently) tied. In the near future, all auto makers will have to yield to Water4Gas systems of all types and models, including their own manufacture of such systems (which will then come with every new car). In the meanwhile, we have to realize that when the light comes on, it is an indication that our system has created a detectable change!

To learn more about error codes that might be connected to the light coming up, visit AutoTap.com/DIY_booklet.html#prob2 - it is part of AutoTap's Do-It-Yourself diagnostics guide, that you can get (free at the time of writing) from www.AutoTap.com/infobook/

Error Codes can also be obtained from the paid (and better) service www.water4gas.com/1/vehicledata.htm

RESETTING THE COMPUTERRESETTING THE COMPUTER

DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY - EXPERIMENTAL METHOD

First of all, why would you want to disconnect the car's battery? Well, some people do it in order to erase the "adaptive memory" of the ECU, so it can re-learn the correct settings for fuel economy. We want to adapt to the better combustion due to the presence of HHO, and everything that is now occurring as a result – including lower than expected fuel consumption.

First let's take a look at 2 major problems with merely disconnecting the battery:

1. On some late model vehicles, disconnecting the battery may result in driveability or other problems. When you disconnect the battery from the car, power is lost to the ECU – but also TO OTHER ONBOARD MODULES. This resets the ECU back to its factory settings.

After re-connection, it will take the ECU's adaptive memory some time to re-learn the CORRECT settings. The transmission will need to re-adjust in order to shift properly, so gearshifts may seem different at first. The re-adjustment process may take 10 to 50 miles of driving.

2. Other car modules might also forget their learned settings. Such settings includes the electronic modules that control the air conditioning system, power seats (especially if those have individual settings for each driver), power windows, power mirrors and sunroof, radio stations and other settings in the sound system.

Certain anti-theft or keyless entry systems have adaptive memory that relies on the vehicle's battery to keep their settings. Some of these electronic modules may not work properly after the vehicle's battery has been re-connected. They may even require a repair procedure (scan tool to release the error codes or standby mode), which might turn costly depending on the vehicle model and dealership.

Therefore, you should check your vehicle owner's manual for precautions regarding disconnecting the battery.



http://www.AutoTap.com/infobook/

http://www.autotap.com/DIY_booklet.html#prob2



One experimenter suggested: “Install a switch that disconnects the ECU every time you fuel.” Well, I never tried but it sounds doable.

A SIMPLE solution:

1. FIRST OF ALL THIS IS NOT A MAGIC SOLUTION TO FUEL ECONOMY – your first step must be to properly install and properly tune any adjustment device you have chosen (such as EFIE or MAP Sensor Enhancer)

2. Warm up the engine, or do this after a ride when the engine is warm and has its normal operating conditions.

3. Do NOT disconnect the battery from the vehicle. Disconnect ONLY THE ECU PLUG (OR PLUGS).

4. Leave it unplugged for 10 minutes.

5. Connect the ECU plug(s) back on.

6. Start the engine for 2 minutes, then turn it off.

7. Repeat the previous step 10 times.

8. Now the ECU will start learning the vehicle's behavior and performance just as if it was a brand new car. Since it has a new performance range with HHO, chances are (hopefully) that the computer will not negate the newly acquired gains in economy and power range. It will learn "to live with it"! This learning process may take, approximately, from 10 to 50 miles of driving.

This solution does not solve problem number 1 above, because the ECU still needs to learn things like proper gearshifts. But it eliminates problem number 2 (radio memory etc). However, problem number one is not really a problem. We actually want the ECU to forget its "wrong" learning of the past - and learn anew.

There may be one or two adaptive settings there that would be the same before and after HHO has been introduced, but for the most part, we want the settings to be refreshed.




CHAPTER 6CHAPTER 6DO-IT-YOURSELF ALTERNATIVES TO EFIEDO-IT-YOURSELF ALTERNATIVES TO EFIE

D17D17For your general information, you can also build yourself an EFIE alternative from free plans known as "D17." The plans can be found on the Internet: www.cyberspaceorbit.com/D17.pdf

Just like Mike said about the hardship of building the EFIE yourself, it took me a long time to build my D17, mainly since it it was hard getting all the parts in my town. Construction itself was fun but not time effective, so I decided to give up mass production of D17.

This is a workable option if you have good experience with electronics and attention to details, because it's more complicated and needs to be debugged in case of mistake or malfunction (often happens).

The switch that I've installed toggles between FULL RICH and ENHANCED MODE. In the enhanced mode I can dial down up my MPG - using the knob. This knob is not a variable resistor. It is a rotary switch, offering only six positions between maximum rich and maximum lean.

The picture below shows the device I've built from D17 plans:

For me, the hardest part in this project was finding the components. However, online electronic stores such as www.Mouser.com and www.DigiKey.com should be able to supply you with just about everything needed for this project. Local electronics supply stores may carry all parts if they are really big stores, or if they specialize in electronic components. Otherwise, you'll have to collect the components from several sources.


GST #7


http://www.mouser.com/

http://www.cyberspaceorbit.com/D17.pdf



NOTE: I found out that D17 does not work as described in the Internet plans. To fix it, replace the input resistor (sensor side) from 1M to 10K Ohm.

EFIE ALTERNATIVE FROM DOWN UNDEREFIE ALTERNATIVE FROM DOWN UNDERPete McGregor from Australia sent me his own design for EFIE, based on a DC/DC converter. His remarks are below the diagram:

PETE'S DESIGN NOTES

• T1 is made from 3 lengths of varnished copper wire, all approximately 7 meters (23 ft) long, diameter 0.2 mm. All three wires are wound together onto a PLASTIC sewing machine bobbin.

• The 20K variable resistor must be a MULTI-TURN trim pot.




CHAPTER 7CHAPTER 7DUAL-EDGE MAP SENSOR ENHANCERDUAL-EDGE MAP SENSOR ENHANCER

(DEMSE)(DEMSE)

CAUTION: This device leans the air-fuel mixture and should therefore be used only in conjunction with an Electrolyzer/Vaporizer

NOTE: To build this device, refer to the Chapter ‘BUILDING A MAP SENSOR ENHANCER’ in Book 1. In this chapter we are only trying to understand how to use it for better mileage, as GST #11.

ALTERNATIVE ENHANCERSALTERNATIVE ENHANCERSA recent addition, this enhancer worked much better (in OBD-II tests) than the O2 Sensor method IN MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE. The O2 Sensor method, on the other hand, worked great on OBD-I. Too early to withdraw absolute conclusions, but this is what indicates at the time of writing. Here's a little road map to navigate between the growing data base of what's the best computer tuning:

• This chapter describes my favorite method of enhancing fuel economy via the MAP Sensor IF THE VEHICLE HAS ONE!

• The chapter GST #6: TUNING THE COMPUTER FOR ECONOMY provides a broader picture on computer enhancements VIA THE SENSORS.

• The chapter GST #19: COMPUTER REPLACEMENT & RE-PROGRAMMING describes techniques - for advanced experimenters - on how to tune the vehicle's computer itself, by changing its internal software and/or its internal data maps.

• The chapter GST #12: MAF SENSOR ENHANCERS describes several options to tune the MAF SENSOR (most modern vehicles have one, but they are not all the same).

A STUPID LITTLE RESISTOR???A STUPID LITTLE RESISTOR???Let me start with a limiter: THIS DEVICE IS EXPERIMENTAL AND HAS WORKED ON OBD-II. It has been reported to also work on OBD-I. I don't think it works well for MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors or Oxygen sensors because those rely on frequencies while this is a direct current device.

Now let's define some words.

When we say the word “computer” in reference to the fuel and emulsions control system, we're generally referring to the ECU or Environmental Control Unit. It is also sometimes called the PCM or other names. So we may be using the word computer and ECU interchangeably, although some cars have more than one computer. The ECU is what we're interested in when it comes to saving energy.


GST #11



OBD means On Board Diagnostics – basically the engine computer system and a dictated set of performance sensors that are mandatory on all cars since 1996. OBD-I is pre-1996. Now we have OBD-II. They say it is mandatory for emissions control. I have come to realize that it's for the purpose of wasting gas. This “modern” system uses gasoline to cool down the engine and “control” the emissions, when patents and technology have been in existence for a century now to do all that without wasting energy (deteriorating the planet) and without building up sludge (aging your car real fast). Thus from now on say OBD means On Board BS. “Potentiometer” (or “pot”) simply means variable resistor. For a long while I've been hearing about the use of some “resistor” to lean out the mixture. I've heard it was being sold on eBay and thought it was too good to be true. Because if it is so simple, then why do we need EFIE? (EFIE is an electronic device that changes or “translates” the pulses of the O2 Sensors)

Well, I'm not at all sure why we need the complicated stuff... I tried this simple device here in a vehicle running OBD-II and it worked better than I had expected.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION - WHY IS THISBACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION - WHY IS THIS NEEDEDNEEDEDThe simplicity of the background is this: we're using what some people refer to as Water-Gas or Water-Fuel technology. Electrolyzers, water vaporizers, water injectors, hydrogen generators of all sorts and colors. As far as I know everybody in the industry shares the same problem on modern computerized cars, and here's a typical story:

Somebody installs a device and enjoys better fuel economy for a few days. Then after maybe half a tank or so, he calls or emails the developer and says: "Hey listen – your device stopped working – I'm losing mileage. I can see the bubbles coming out and all, but the performance has dropped!! I am losing the gains I had!"

Now let's examine what happens.

You have enriched your car with something fantastic – water power of some sort. Hydrogen, water vapor, or both. As your computer senses a richer fuel it then reduces the amount of fuel being consumed, because you’re already running rich. So far so good because you don’t need as much fuel as before.

Now the problem shows its ugly face when we discover that the computer – your vehicle's computer – has been pre-designed to protect the vested interest of those who would like to see you waste fuel like crazy. While pretending to be your friends.

This is an unproven theory of course, but your computer figures out that we've been enforcing fuel economy for a while and it says: “Wait a minute - somebody is probably doing something fishy here” - and it switches your car into “Limp Home” mode which means, between other things, a constant-rich (wasteful) mixture.

What just happened? You’ve been enjoying good fuel economy for a while, but all of a sudden your gains are dropping and in some cases even going negative. That is, worse than before the installation. You computer has said: “Sorry buddy, we've just caught you cheating and we can’t allow that.”




Here comes the counter-measure: LEANING THE MIXTURE. Forcing it to go lean. In laymen terms, "leaning the mixture" simply means using less fuel (the expensive stuff...) and more air (the free stuff...) in the air-and-fuel salad entering the engine.

We've already discussed the potential benefits of leaning the mixture to the exhaust emissions. In a previous chapter there is a reference from NASA Tech Notes about the potential benefits of a lean mixture to both lower emissions and increased fuel economy. Several inventions exist to lean the usage of gasoline back to where it was before you've lost gains, and in most cases even much better. The invention we're presenting here is not the only one, but is among the simplest.

We’re going to use this invention to change the set points so that the computer is still active in “closed circuit” or “closed loop” mode. That is, it still senses the car's performance and it still controls the consumption of fuel as needed every little moment of driving – but the difference is that now we have totally changed the set points in your favor!

Now you are going to enjoy the mileage gains and you'll get to KEEP THEM for a very long period of time.

HOW DOES THE MAP SENSOR WORK?HOW DOES THE MAP SENSOR WORK?The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor signal is electrically used in a similar way to the use of Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor signal, although internally it is built very differently. The MAP Sensor takes a 5 volt signal from the computer, and returns a lower direct current signal in accordance with the vacuum in the engine. A higher output voltage means lower engine vacuum, which is then calculated as “more fuel is needed”. Lower output signal indicates higher engine vacuum, which requires less fuel.

It's not just fuel control though. The MAP senor signal gives the computer a dynamic indication of engine load. The computer then uses this data to control not only fuel injection, but also gear shift and cylinder ignition timing. In some cases it is even used to calculate changes in barometric pressure, to automatically adjust for different altitudes.

HOW DOES THE MAF SENSOR WORK?HOW DOES THE MAF SENSOR WORK?The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor helps the computer to calculate the flow and mass of the air entering the engine. It does that by measuring the cooling effect of air flow over a heated wire element. The electronic circuit inside the sensor attempts to keep the sensor at a fixed temp. When it is cooled more by an increased air flow, more current is needed to maintain a constant temperature. The increase in current is converted into a signal and that signal goes to the computer. In most cars this signal would be a high frequency signal. Not as high as a radio wave, but much faster changing than the (relatively) slow frequency of the Oxygen sensor.

During low air flow rates, such as at engine idle, the MAF sensor produces a lower frequency signal. During high air flow rates, such as at wide open throttle-road load, the MAF sensor increases the frequency. The control module then converts these frequencies into their corresponding Grams-Per-Second values.




Yet again, some MAF sensors may work on a straight DC signal 0-5Volts such as the typical MAP sensor. This is the case in some older MAP Sensor designs that have a trap door with a potentiometer connected to its shaft.

For better understanding of air flow sensors read this document: http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf

I'm giving you these descriptions so you can understand how to apply the correct circuit to each sensor. I don't think the pot arrangement can do if all you have is a MAF sensor or if the MAP sensor works with frequencies (very rare). If this is the case, employ the Oxygen Sensor device called EFIE from www.Eagle-Research.com

THE ENHANCERTHE ENHANCERThe invention we're talking about here is a simple play with resistors. A resistor is a little piece of carbon that somewhat blocks electrical current. Higher value means it resists more. The potentiometer (“pot” for short) is a resistor, a variable resistor, which varies its value by turning the knob. But it is still only a resistor. There is another resistor, a fixed value resistor, in series to the pot as shown in the diagram below.

The MAP or Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor is a small (but expensive) device installed in your intake manifold, or installed on the firewall and connected to the manifold with a thin hose. It has 5 Volts or 12 Volts coming in, and it simply senses the vacuum in the manifold and attenuates (reduces, weakens) this incoming voltage by a certain factor. In other words it reduces the supply voltage to a direct-current voltage in the range of 15% to 60% of the supply voltage (depending on the car's design these numbers will vary), and this varying (but non-pulsing) signal is then sent back to the computer.

The arrangement of resistors simply takes this already attenuated (reduced, weakened) signal – and attenuates it further. Too much attenuation kills the engine, it will simply shut off. Yet if you control it correctly you can lean down the mixture from the stoichiometric (a big word that simply means “balance of ingredients”) which is factory set at 14.7:1 (14.7 parts of air to 1 part gasoline) – down to 20:1, maybe much leaner.






This device is totally passive and will work just the same if the signal coming in is 12 volts, 5 volts, or whatever comes on the line. The diagram here is the SIMPLEST way of doing this. The line from the sensor to the ECU is cut, and you place a pot on the line as shown. Further below you will see the improved enhancer based on the same principle.

An alternative design has been submitted by Peter McGregor from Australia. He added it on top of having EFIE, and he reports that it seems to make the car run smoother with finer adjustments in conjunctions with the EFIE. The diagram below displays his MAP Sensor Enhancer design. The Zener diode is only tapped onto the MAP signal output signal, instead of intercepting it (this means you do NOT cut the line!). Fine tuning may be necessary by adding a fixed resistor to the circuit.




INSTALLATION AND TUNINGINSTALLATION AND TUNINGATTENTION: The tuning procedure calls for clockwise and counter-clockwise rotation of the knob. In some of the drawings the shown connections will result in opposite rotation. The solution is to swap the connections of the SIDE wires going to the pot (not the wire in the middle). The last drawing in this chapter shows the “correct” connection on both pots. By “correct” I mean it will have full rich in the counter clockwise end and full lean in the clockwise. The idea is that turning clockwise will “enhance” the more you turn. But it's up to you.

The potentiometer can be installed on the dashboard. To eliminate the work and possible damage to the dashboard, and to enable me better control, you can build this into a small mobile box and place the box beside the driver seat. It makes tuning quite effortless.

(The markings “Highway” and “City” shown for example only)

Now locate the 3 wires connected to the MAP sensor. There will be one for the positive supply voltage, usually 5 or 12 volts but it does not matter. The signal will be the one with the WEAKER voltage, and will change with RPM if you start the engine. And there will be a ground wire. You can solder or crimp electrical wire connectors, so you can always hook it back to factory setup. But I doubt if you'll ever want to go back!

If you cannot locate the sensor or the wires, or you're not sure, you'd better get the car's manual. DO NOT IMPROVISE OR GUESS – you may damage your computer. All I had to do at my (low) skill level was to walk into AutoZone and purchase the maintenance manual (Haynes) specific to the fuel injection system of my test car.




Two users of this method have advised me that one should also disconnect the plug of the upstream oxygen sensor (i.e., the one closer to the engine). The idea is that otherwise the computer will eventually lock in constant-rich mode again.

Now for actual tuning on the road.

1. Turn the knob all the way to “rich” (it should be fully counter clockwise if youhooked it as shown in the last photos of this chapter). This will be factoryoriginal.

2. Make sure your water device is operational. Warm up the engine and drive a while before messing with the knob.

3. DO THE NEXT STEP WITH CARE – ON A SIDE ROAD - JUST IN CASE YOUR ENGINE STOPS UNEXPECTEDLY.

4. Now start turning the knob clockwise, the mixture will turn leaner and leaner until the car stalls or bucks as you drive. Back the knob off slightly after the bucking and chugging.

5. Keep the danger of overheating in mind. If your Water4Gas device is non operational temporarily, set the enhancer at or near original factory setting (rich).

6. Another thing I've noticed is that set points change from one gas station fuel to another, weather conditions, cold engine, etc. The differences are not large, but if you're on the edge then the car will buck or vibrate and you'll need to change the set point a bit. Remember that this is a simple device. There is no point in computerizing it, it will require a whole new programmable ECU which is a very costly thing for most drivers and countries.

7. NOTE: When this device turns on the Check Engine light – and it is likely to do that, you can turn off the light using a ScanGauge-II (1996 cars or newer).

HOW TO MAXIMIZE YOUR BENEFITSHOW TO MAXIMIZE YOUR BENEFITSIn June 2007 I conducted a set of road tests using DEMSE, that averaged only 24.5% mileage gain. A week later, without changing any of the HHO system, a similar set of road tests averaged 52.4% better mileage.

I wondered WHY such great difference? I analyzed it and came up with this workable theory: The later and more successful tests got MORE THAN DOUBLE average gain, because the mixture was not dialed to near choke point. It was about ¼ turn closer to factory setting! On the earlier tests I was choking the engine half to death. It reminds me of the greedy guy slaying the gold laying hen to get all the gold right now...

Each and every MPH readout was obtained by ScanGauge-II after (and only if) the readout has STABILIZED. My rules were strict: I recorded a DEFINITE result only if there was a steady road condition where I could dial in a certain MPG on the enhancer (in enhanced mode), then switch back to original, back to SAME enhanced point (by an electric switch so I know it duplicates exactly), back to original.




I let the readout stabilize in EACH mode. If the road was flat enough or steady uphill enough AND I could do it back and forth and still got the same numbers, I’d write down one line of results, and the speed I was in. Cruise control, never touched the pedal. Windows up, no air conditioner, no radio, nothing else changed.

MY CONCLUSIONSMY CONCLUSIONSDon’t overwork the engine by leaning it too much – play around until you find the PERFECT BALANCE point. Leave it where at its best position.

Now there’s a bit of a problem because the “best position” will vary by driving area and environmental conditions. I have found that there could be two or even three points that you want to be set at:

1. Absolute maximum gas savings for highways.

2. A bit less than that for city driving, because you'll need extra power to start off after each stop.

3. Possibly you may want to switch back and forth between full rich and full lean (maximum lean that doesn't kill the engine and doesn't cause bucking or vibration) mixture, so you can compare the effect of the enhancer. That’s what I used to get easy readouts in my tests.

THIS IS MY OWN CONCLUSION. I am willing to be proven wrong, but so far the results indicate that this principle can work in your favor. One last note, I studied other solutions and methods. I believe they are of some benefit, but they are mostly VERY complicated, far beyond the scope of our philosophy of keep-it-simple (and affordable) .

MARKINGSMARKINGSThe “city” side is identical to ‘highway” as you can see from the diagrams and parts list. There are several ways to use the device. For instance you can mark one side as “enhanced” and the other side would be marked “original” (in which case you leave that side at full-rich position) so now you can switch between enhanced mode and original factory setting. Or mark them “hot engine” vs. “cold engine”, or “bypass/uphill” vs. “flat road” - or whatever suits your use and driving needs.

TROUBLESHOOTINGTROUBLESHOOTINGWatch out for mixed-up wires. It is not a complicated device, but its structure must be duplicated exactly. Especially note these points:

1. The potentiometers are wired in such a way that turning it counter-clockwise will ENRICH the mixture and clockwise will LEAN the mixture. If you get anything else, check the wires per the diagram above. Also refer to the photos below.

2. The nature of this type of lever switch is that the right-hand pot is actually the “highway” adjustment, and the left-hand pot is the “city” adjustment. Observe




the photo below - see how the wires are crossed to the switch? (Otherwise the knob/switch arrangement would be confusing).

3. Fixed resistors of 33K worked fine in my experiment. Your engine may be different. Any similar value will work, but the idea is that this resistor is calculated to enable a larger active range of the pot's movement. Call or emailme if this is not clear.

This diagram below demonstrates the reason and usage of the fixed resistor. You may want to trim the value of your (fixed) resistor to a different value if the control range you're getting is not optimal.

NO FIXED RESISTOR: FIXED RESISTOR ADDED:

FANCY DESIGNFANCY DESIGNThis may be going too far. Maybe not. But it is definitely a convenience to have TWO settings enhanced, and be able to switch back to original stock (factory settings) with a flip of a button.

In this device which is a variation of DEMSE, the lower switch moves up-down rather than left-right, and toggles between “Original” and “Enhanced” modes.

In Enhanced mode the upper switch toggles between the two knobs.

For instructions on how to replicate this design, see Book 1-B.




CHAPTER 8CHAPTER 8MAF SENSOR ENHANCERSMAF SENSOR ENHANCERS

INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTIONThis type of fuel economy enhancer may work on OBD-II as well as OBD-I computer sensor/systems. This chapter provides my own ideas on how to enhance fuel economy, via the MAF Sensor, in several economical do-it-yourself ways. To help you decide when and how to use these methods, here's a little road map to navigate between the growing data base of what's the best computer tuning:

• The chapter GST #11: DUAL-EDGE MAP SENSOR ENHANCER (DEMSE) describes my favorite method of enhancing fuel economy via the MAP Sensor IF THE VEHICLE HAS ONE!

• The chapter GST #6: TUNING THE COMPUTER FOR ECONOMY provides a broader picture on computer enhancements VIA THE SENSORS.

• The chapter GST #19: COMPUTER REPLACEMENT & RE-PROGRAMMING describes techniques - for advanced experimenters - on how to tune the vehicle's computer itself, by changing its internal software and/or its internal data maps.

• This chapter describes several options to tune the MAF SENSOR.

WHAT IS A MAF SENSOR?

The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor has many variations. All of them may be utilized for our purpose here. It may be named “VAF Meter” (rather than 'sensor'), and VAF may stand for Volumetric Air Flow, Vortex Air Flow, or Vane Air Flow, etc. Anyway this type of sensor helps the computer to calculate the flow and mass of the air entering the engine. It usually does that by measuring the cooling effect of air flow over a heated wire element.

The significance of this sensor to us is that it is used by many computer systems to calculate how much fuel to inject into the engine. WikiPedia says that "The air mass information is necessary for the engine control unit (ECU) to balance and deliver the correct fuel mass to the engine. Air changes its density as it expands and contracts with temperature and pressure. In automotive applications, air density varies with the ambient temperature and altitude, and this is an ideal application for a mass sensor."

The statement above becomes much more important WHEN WE DO NOT HAVE A MAP (MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE) SENSOR IN THE VEHICLE. (Again, "MAP Sensor" does not mean the ENHANCER, it is the SENSOR INSIDE THE ENGINE). I usually recommend using the Dual-Edge MAP Sensor Enhancer (DEMSE) for its simplicity and low-low price. However, what do you do when the vehicle does not come with a MAP Sensor? You enhance (fuel economy) either via the Oxygen Sensor - or via the MAF Sensor.

The photo below shows the elements of a common MAF sensor – note the brownish wires going across the openings. There are many types of sensor designs - your sensor might look completely different!


GST #12



The electronic circuit inside the sensor (see photo, right side) attempts to keep the sensor at a fixed temp. When it is cooled more by an increased air flow, more current is needed to maintain a constant temperature. The increase in current is converted into a signal and that signal goes to the computer. In most cars this signal would be a high frequency signal. Not as high as a radio wave, but much faster changing than the (relatively) slow frequency of the Oxygen sensor.

During low air flow rates, such as at engine idle, the MAF sensor produces a lower frequency signal. During high air flow rates, such as at wide open throttle-road load, the MAF sensor increases the frequency. The control module then converts these frequencies into their corresponding Grams-Per-Second values.

Yet again, some MAF sensors may work on a straight DC signal 0-5Volts such as the typical MAP sensor. This is the case in some older MAF Sensor designs that have a trap door with a potentiometer connected to its shaft. Some work by a membrane action, some with cold elements sensing airflow by inductance (electric force field which builds up around a conductor).

I'm not trying to cover the entire theory here. For better understanding of air flow sensors read these documents:

• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor

• http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf

• http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/pdf/Counterpoint3_2.pdf


http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/pdf/Counterpoint3_2.pdf


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor



THE ENHANCERTHE ENHANCERTo fully control the MAF sensor, I mean all the way down the air/fuel ratio, you need to gain control over the circuit, or otherwise translate its signal before it gets into the computer. There are “MAF Tuners” on the regular (non-HHO) aftermarket but those are currently:

• Not shared with the public (you cannot build them yourself),

• Designed for horsepower but not for fuel economy.

Now let's see if we can control the MAF signal using a simple potentiometer. It's going to be partially theoretical. I know a guy who rides his truck with this arrangement already in place, specifically the pot exactly as DEMSE above, on one of the wires coming out of the MAF sensor. That vehicle does not have a MAP sensor (I think it's a Ford). He borrowed my ScanGauge for the experiment, we drove together and measured 25% mileage gain average highway AND city driving. So here is my theory of why this works.

The mechanic said he just measured the signals on the MAF wires and decided to use the one that changed between 0-3 Volt, rather than the wires that changed little or none. Clever so far. What did he do actually?

Trying to find a standard connection of MAF Sensors, I came up with none. Some have five wires, some four, some use a 6-wire connector that includes the air temp. So what we'll do is I'll give you the theory and TYPICAL diagram, and you'll have to figure out which wire to cut by first measuring all signals and see which one changes most (i.e., gets a wide range of voltages when you rev up the engine to different RPM levels).

The operating principle of a typical hot-wire sensor is based on two sensing elements shown in the diagram below as R3 and R4. These are metal film resistors which are are mounted in the air stream channel and are connected in a bridge circuit (the “bridge” is the 4 resistor arrangement). Sensing element R4 (“temperature compensation resistor”) provides bridge tracking so that the flow sensing element R3 (“hot film resistor”) is heated to a fixed temperature offset relative to the incoming air temperature. R1 and R2 are fixed resistor that build up the “bridge” configuration.




The Voltage Comparator tries to maintain constant current trough the bridge, and the electrical current required to maintain the fixed offset temperature of R2 (adding more current as airflow rises and cools down the resistor) indicated the amount of the mass airflow across resistor R2. The attached electronics transforms this signal into an analog (changing DC voltage) or frequency output signal that's delivered to the computer.

If you can dissect the sensor circuitry and locate the point between the bridge and the circuit that converts the analog voltage to frequency, you can use a DEMSE (potentiometer) to regulate this voltage. If not, measure the signals coming out of the sensor. As mentioned use the one that displays the most change on a digital voltmeter.

A diagram for a possible circuit is given below. I say “possible” because MAF sensors are so non-standard that all I can do at the moment is give you ideas to experiment with. So here are the steps I would take:

1. IF YOU HAVE a MAP sensor – by all means use it! See GST #11 (DEMSE). 2. If no MAP sensor, add the circuit shown below or change the sensor circuitry if

you can. 3. Once this works, test it. If you get MPG differences of 50% between full rich and

full lean, you're good to go. You have full control over the mixture. 4. If you get change in the range of 15%-25%, I suspect that you have SOME

control (which is s great start) but not all that is possible. Try GST #6 (EFIE).




MECHANICAL MAF SENSOR ENHANCERMECHANICAL MAF SENSOR ENHANCERAn alternative to the electronic MAF Sensor Enhancer described above, is as mechanical enhancer, built on the idea of diverting some of the intake air. We don't change the MAF sensor. Instead, the idea is that the diverted air will not be measured resulting in a lower MAF signal. No electronics involved, you see?

Depending on the engine at hand, you will have to devise an adjustable intake air bypass to the MAF sensor. It will be easier to build in engines that are not compacted to such a point that you cannot stick a toothpick in there.

The simplest configuration is described below.

1. Locate the air filter box to which the MAF sensor is attached. The following diagram shows the air path from the filter to exhaust.

2. Drill a large hole in the air conduit leading from the location of the MAF sensor to the throttle body. The hole must be AFTER the sensor because the whole idea is to partially BYPASS the sensor.

3. Add a flap-cover. If space permits, instead of constructing a cover, attach an old motorcycle choke valve:

4. Connect it to a bicycle-type cable or better yet a complete choke cable (since it already has a knob and is readily designed for dashboard installation). I'm talking about a part that cannot be found in most auto parts stores, at least in the US, but you can get it cheaply from stores that sell used car parts.




5. Install the other cable end onto the dashboard. If the dashboard is hard to open, add small board or bracket under the dashboard, within easy reach.

6. The air going into this contraption must be filtered. OPTION A: Attach an independent air filter to the open end of the choke valve, as shown in the picture below. OPTION B: connect a flexible air duct from the open end of the choke valve back to the air filter.

7. To compensate mixture changes in deceleration and idling, you can connect a separate spring-loaded cable to the throttle control arm.




CHAPTER 9CHAPTER 9COMPUTER REPLACEMENT ANDCOMPUTER REPLACEMENT AND

REPROGRAMMINGREPROGRAMMING

Note: Water4Gas technology does not require you to mess with the computer. That's the whole beauty of it – sheer simplicity, basic tools and basic skills. This chapter is provided solely for the advanced experimenter and for students of automotive technology.

TINKERING WITH THE COMPUTERTINKERING WITH THE COMPUTERFirst off, important definition: “Hacking” in our context here does not mean breaking into security systems. It means tinkering – the hobby of changing hardware or software to make it better.

Ever since computers came along into the design of modern cars, the art of car performance boosting went away from the hands of grease monkeys with their mechanical boosters and pipes – into the hands of geeks with their computerized gadgets. Here is a series of interesting articles and websites, that will give you a good introduction to the world of ECU hacking:

• General broad education about the ECU, from WikiPedia: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_control_unit

• http://forums.openecu.org/index.php - forums for ECU reverse engineering and modification.

• www.beatking.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1928&mode=linear - The story "Altering your engine with new chips" published in the New York Times on February 13, 2004.

• www.nytimes.com/2006/10/25/automobiles/autospecial/25hacking.html? ex=1185768000&en=a65a43522527b328&ei=5070 - the story “Need a Tuneup? Become a Hacker” published in New York Times on October 25, 2006.

Justin from one of the Subaru forums, explains the essence of ECU hacking:

“The real trick to all of this is to tune your car to its optimum level without doing any long term damage. This is where real time logging comes in. You have to be able to tell how your car is doing out of the box to know what kind of changes to make. You also need to monitor the car's performance after you make your changes to be sure it's responding to them the way you think it should be.”


GST #20

http://www.nytimes.com/2006/10/25/automobiles/autospecial/25hacking.html?%20ex=1185768000&en=a65a43522527b328&ei=5070

http://www.nytimes.com/2006/10/25/automobiles/autospecial/25hacking.html?%20ex=1185768000&en=a65a43522527b328&ei=5070

http://www.beatking.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1928&mode=linear

http://forums.openecu.org/index.php

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_control_unit



NEW COMPUTER VS. ECU CHIPSNEW COMPUTER VS. ECU CHIPSThere are two basic options: either replace the entire computer with a new one, or replace only the “chip.” There are a very few reasons to replace a computer. Either it has been damaged for whatever reason, a new engine has been installed that requires a different computer, or – and that's the most interesting reason from a hackers point of view – if you want to have much more control and be able to program the computer yourself. Which can then be done via a PC or laptop.

http://www.OpenECU.org says that it is “a place to shed light on the once 'dark art' of logging, tuning, and reflashing [reprogramming] of modern engine computers (ECUs).”

The OpenECU project was started in 2004 by Colby Boles with the goal of making engine computer (ECU) reflashing knowledge and tools freely available to anyone. The project consists of a web forum, wiki pages (members-contributed knowledge and articles), and open-source software from many contributors.

In most cases people who are simply interested in performance will not go as far – or as expensive – as replacing the entire computer. The second choice, then, is to replace “the chip.”

Screenshot from an open-source reprogramming software

What is a chip? It's a self-contained computer part that performs certain functions. There are many chips in each computer – so what do they mean by “THE chip”? Well, that's one major chip in your car's computer that, if and when replaced, will possibly change the behavior and performance of the car dramatically.

The best place to start searching for a chip is http://www.eBay.com - search “ECU chip”. You will find various chips offered for specific models, and it will also lead you to companies offering to come to you for reprogramming service, such as the UK based ECU-Evolution(http://www.ecu-evolution.co.uk).

They serve South Wales area during the week and Northampton area during the weekend. Their services start at about £200 and they


http://www.ecu-evolution.co.uk/

http://www.ebay.com/

http://www.openecu.org/



offer partial refund (and will revert your ECU to its original setup) if you're not satisfied with the results.

Chips on eBay come as cheaply as $12.95, but with a couple hundred offers, naturally not all cars are covered. It's both popularity and ease of hacking that determine if your car is on the list of offers.

PROGRAMMERS – DEVICESPROGRAMMERS – DEVICESThere are human ECU programmers out there but I do not mention them here, for a reason. It's because if you do not already know one personally, they are very hard to find. There are companies that can be found on the Internet to reprogram your vehicle's computer, but according to my evaluation their services are not only expensive, but are also very limited when it comes to FUEL ECONOMY. Some of them concentrate on power boosting - resulting in more pollution - and that is obviously not our purpose.

The term “programmers” in this chapter refers to small (usually hand held) computers built for the purpose of reprogramming specific makes and models of vehicles. It is quite impossible to cover the entire scope of vehicles in the world in one little instrument. Theoretically, maybe, but definitely not economically.

These instruments come from a limited number of vendors who have exhaustively researched the subject of car computer programming, and have invented their own technology to reprogram specific vehicles. For instance Truck Stuff USA, offers unique solutions for reprogramming, ranging in price and options:http://www.truckstuffusa.com/chipmodandpr.html

Depending on model and compatibility, you can possibly hack your ECU and tune it for fuel economy with just a few clicks.

The price tag can look expensive, but from a professional point of view it is not more expensive than any other tool. For example the two programmers shown here cost under $400 each. One time I paid $350 for my vehicle to be tuned for economy. Imagine yourself as a programmer using this tool professionally – potentially you'll be covering your costs in one or two professional jobs, not to mention the benefit of tuning your own family and work vehicles.

CAUTION: PROGRAMMERS ARE DESIGNED FOR SPECIFIC VEHICLES AND INCORRECT USE MAY CAUSE DAMAGE OR LOSS OF VITAL DATA. THESE ARE NOT CUTE TOYS EVEN IF THEY LOOK


http://www.truckstuffusa.com/chipmodandpr.html



LIKE SUCH. BEFORE ORDERING – AND DEFINITELY BEFORE HACKING INTO ANY ECU – YOU MUST MAKE SURE THAT THE DEVICE MATCHES THE VEHICLE YOU'RE ABOUT TO SERVICE.

ELM-327 INTERFACEELM-327 INTERFACEThis is an interface called ELM-327 because it is based on the ELM-327 chip. The word "interface" means a connection and translation between two terminals, in this case it's connection and translation between the OBD plug of your vehicle - and a laptop computer in or near the vehicle. I got the ELM-327 device below for only $6 on eBay (just search for ELM327). We'll come back to it in a minute, but first let's have a look at OBD and what it means exactly.

On-Board Diagnostics - Overview

[Edited from WikiPedia, the free encyclopedia]

On-Board Diagnostics, or OBD, in an automotive context, is a generic term referring to a vehicle's self-diagnostic and reporting capability. OBD systems give the vehicle owner or a repair technician access to state of health information for various vehicle sub-systems. The amount of diagnostic information available via OBD has varied widely since the introduction in the early 1980s of on-board vehicle computers, which made OBD possible. Early instances of OBD would simply illuminate a Malfunction Indicator Light, or


http://search.ebay.com/elm327



MIL, if a problem were detected - but would not provide any information as to the nature of the problem. Modern OBD implementations use a standardized fast digital communications port to provide realtime data in addition to a standardized series of Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) which allow one to rapidly identify and remedy malfunctions within the vehicle.

History Of OBD Systems

1. 1970: US Congress passed the Clean Air Act, establishing the EPA - Environmental Protection Agency.

2. ~1980: On-board computers began appearing on consumer vehicles, largely motivated by their need for real-time tuning of fuel injection systems. Simple OBD implementations, however there was no standardization in what is monitored or how it is reported.

3. 1982: General Motors implemented a proprietary interface and protocol, monitoring very few vehicle systems.

4. 1986: An upgraded, faster version of the General Motors protocol.

5. ~1987: The California Air Resources Board (CARB) required that all new vehicles sold in California starting in manufacturer's year 1988 have some basic OBD capability. The requirements they specified were generally referred to as the "OBD-I" standard, though this name was not applied until the introduction of OBD-II. Still no standardization of the data link connector and its position.

6. 1988: The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) recommended a standardized diagnostic connector and set of diagnostic test signals.

7. ~1994: Motivated by a desire for a state-wide emissions testing program, the CARB issued the OBD-II specification and mandates that it be adopted for all cars sold in California starting in model year 1996.

8. 1996: OBD-II specification made mandatory for all cars sold in the United States.

9. 2001: The European Union made EOBD mandatory for all petrol vehicles sold in the European Union, starting in manufacturing year 2001.

10.2008 onward: All cars sold in the United States are required to use the ISO 15765-4 [2] signaling standard, which is a variant of the Controller Area Network (CAN) protocol.

OBD-I

The regulatory intent of OBD-I was to encourage auto manufacturers to design reliable emission control systems that remain effective for the vehicle's "useful life". The hope was that by forcing annual emissions testing for California, and denying registration to vehicles that did not pass, drivers would tend to purchase vehicles that would more reliably pass the test.

Along these lines, OBD-I was largely unsuccessful - the means of reporting emissions-specific diagnostic information was not standardized. Technical difficulties with obtaining standardized and reliable emissions information from all vehicles led to an inability to implement effectively the annual testing program.




OBD-II

OBD-II is an improvement over OBD-I in both capability and standardization. The OBD-II standard specifies the type of diagnostic connector and its pinout, the electrical signaling protocols available, and the messaging format. It also provides a candidate list of vehicle parameters to monitor along with how to encode the data for each.

Finally, the OBD-II standard provides an extensible list of Diagnostic Trouble Codes. As a result of this standardization, a single device (scanner) can query the on-board computer(s) in any vehicle.

Back to ELM-327

The basic setup is very simple:

1.Install the software that comes with the ELM-327 Interface, in the laptop.

2.Insert the OBD plug of the ELM-327 Interface into the vehicle's OBD plug.

3.Connect the USB connector of the ELM-327 Interface to the laptop.

Once the setup is done, you can start learning exactly what's happening inside your engine, like:

1. What is happening inside my engine under load? Perform real-time monitoring, plotting, and logging of sensors data (such as O2 sensors, air and engine temperature), as well as ignition timing.

2. What causes a Check Engine light? (and RESET a Check Engine light).3. Perform your own emission tests.

4. What are the performance parameters before and after installing a new system, or after changing anything? Or in other words: Did my last change improve or worsen my performance?

5. Is my system in perfect tune - or not?

6. You can now have a recording, over time, and under different load and changing road conditions, of your vehicle's performance.

7. Depending on the software, you may be able to record, display and print colorful graphs of your vehicle's performance. Plot such graphs as fuel consumption and horsepower vs. RPM, etc.




I cannot give you an exact step-by-step instructions because this area constantly changes. However, I'm going to give you several sources for OBD-II software tools:

• http://www.OBD2allinone.com (great source of information and recommended software, especially review the list of resources down the page)

• http://scantool.imechatronics.com/downloads.htm (ELM327 free and low cost software)

• http://www.madeinchina.com/wholesale/elm327-usb.shtml - buy bulk from China

• http://www.thinkythings.org/obdii/ (good general education on the subject)

• Since there's always something new, search Google for "ELM327 software" or "OBD-II software" for the latest on available tools. Also, try to buy your ELM-327 Interface from a source that provides a useful software with every shipment. Usually they will ship it with a disk containing several free software for PC computers.

EDUCATIONAL PROJECTEDUCATIONAL PROJECTMegaSquirt is intended as an educational project. If you like to tinker with systems, and want to learn A LOT about electronic fuel injection, this is a great experimental Do-It- Yourself project.

MegaSquirt is a programmable electronic fuel injection controller (see photo) that you build yourself.

It can work on virtually any liquid fueled spark-ignition engine, naturally aspirated or boosted (up to 21 psi boost with the standard MAP sensor).

Note that MegaSquirt is the controller only, therefore you will have to gather the remaining fuel system parts yourself: 1 to 16 injectors, sensors, fuel rails, fuel pump, etc. Optionally, take a car from a salvation yard or accident, and if the engine is still running most probably the injectors, sensors, pumps, etc., are all there for you to play with. This seems like the most economical way.

You will need the ability to build and test printed circuit boards, but extensive support is given on the website http://www.megasquirt.info which makes it as easy as it gets with modern electronics. I realize that this is beyond the scope of the average MPG experimenter, so I've added it here for the interest of geeks and electronics students who may be walking among us (walk tall, guys, I'm one of you :-)


http://www.megasquirt.info/

http://www.thinkythings.org/obdii/

http://www.madeinchina.com/wholesale/elm327-usb.shtml

http://scantool.imechatronics.com/downloads.htm

http://www.obd2allinone.com/



CHAPTER 10CHAPTER 10VOLO PERFORMANCEVOLO PERFORMANCE

WHO ARE THESE PEOPLEWHO ARE THESE PEOPLELocated outside of Little Rock, Arkansas, Volo Performance manufacture and sell exclusive chip tuning technology not available anywhere else. They offers both performance enhancement chips and mileage enhancement chips:

http://www.water4gas.com/1/voloper.htm

For the purpose of this book, we are naturally interested in the mileage enhancement chips.

PRINCIPLE OF OPERATIONPRINCIPLE OF OPERATIONThe uniqueness of their product is in the easy installation and tuning as you will see in a minute. Actually, no tuning is necessary – the chip will tune itself and work automatically. The price you pay for this easiness is that the mileage gain may not going to be maximal, but it has its place and is gaining popularity.

Before I continue let me clarify another important factor. The Volo Performance people are very technical and the nature of their products is that they must all be adapted – by software – to your specific vehicle type. And if your vehicle type is not on their list, you can always contact them and ask if an adaptation of one of their products can be adapted to your vehicle.

The HHO Edition of the Volo Performance chip is shown below.

This chip has been designed specifically for the needs of OBD-2 vehicles equipped with HHO generator(s). The chip is dynamic - which means it will consider oxygen levels in the exhaust, along with engine speed and load, intake air temperature and volume, and


GST #21

http://www.water4gas.com/1/voloper.htm



many other variables, to determine the most efficient fuel delivery rate and timing at up to 256 separate load points.

When using HHO as a fuel supplement, this enhancer will adjust fuel delivery and timing to optimize efficiency. When HHO is disabled, it will automatically re-adjust and switch to highly efficient, non-HHO enhanced “maps” (organized control data).

As mentioned above, this product is based on a vehicle-specific, custom programmed Micro-controller (chip). It utilizes its high speed serial input/output to communicate directly with the vehicle's ECU through the OBD-II port.

Volo Performance recommends to use this product with non-restrictive intake air filters, as well as (of course) HHO generators for maximum gains. The manufacturers say that it is compatible with factory equipped turbos and superchargers, diesel engines, flex-fuel system (alcohol adaptations), as well as HHO supplement systems. It is NOT compatible, however, with hybrid engine options, propane, or natural-gas.

COMPATIBILITYCOMPATIBILITYThe only way to make sure that this product is compatible with your vehicle, is to ask Volo Performance. On their website, when you select the product, there is a long list of compatible vehicles - I counted 4,732 different models – check to see if your vehicle is on the list.

INSTALLATIONINSTALLATIONThe Volo Performance unit installs on the wiring of the OBD-2 plug, usually just behind the plug itself under the dashboard. It comes with full instructions and there's an installation video on the company's website so I'm not going to repeat it here. However, I want to recommend something.




Since the installation is as simple as hooking up four wires by TAPPING onto your OBD-2 wiring, i.e., without cutting any of the wires, I have a recommendation to install the VOLO Performance unit as instructed, but instead of doing it on the vehicle's side of the OBD plug, to do it on an external plug such as the plug of your ScanGauge-II (or any other scanner). Or on a stand alone OBD plug.

The reason behind my idea was to accommodate for vehicle users who do not own the vehicle but only rent or lease it. The method I just describe will actually eliminate installation. Even though it's only four wires and only 15 minutes total, it is an installation. Now if you ask me what about the HHO installation on a rented/leased vehicle, the answer is that the Volo Performance product is designed (as far as I understand) to improve your mileage even without HHO. So it's up to you how to install it.

The Volo Performance website provides an easy-to-use tool that allows you to easily identify your vehicle's OBD protocol and print a wiring diagram for your vehicle. Coupled with their installation guides and their installation video, it's an easy and fast installation.

CALIBRATIONCALIBRATIONAfter installation, the Volo Performance chip will self calibrate according to the actual performance of the engine.




CHAPTER 11CHAPTER 11GETTING HELPGETTING HELP

FUTURE - VISIONFUTURE - VISIONSometime in the future all this will be history and cars will be automatically tuned to run on water. For now, standards have not been established yet. Therefore getting great results from the exciting technology of Hydrogen-On-Demand are all about experimenting with your own car, truck or boat and finding out what works best for you.

PRESENT TIME – SURVIVAL AND MUTUAL HELPPRESENT TIME – SURVIVAL AND MUTUAL HELPWe're here for a reason – to combine the knowledge of many experimenters like yourself, scientists and field developers – and give you a continual stream of fresh knowledge in this exciting field of free energy.

So go ahead and USE US, or more correctly USE THE POWER OF THE CLUB:

Email or mail your questions to one of the Water4Gas groups. A group can be either a LOCAL group, for example “West India,” or VEHICLE SPECIFIC, for example “Classic Ford Mustang.”

Send us your successful actions and results – for the benefit of all experimenters. I want you to know that you are now enjoying the fruits of the work of MANY experimenters who did not hesitate to share their work, and I thank you in advance for doing so.

Promote yourself and your business: Write success stories that will be published on our website (feel free to put a link or contact info to your business – we will NOT remove such advertising unless we think it's objectionable stuff).

Also stay tuned for our newsletter which is jam packed with useful news and breakthroughs.

HOW TO CONTACT USHOW TO CONTACT USPhone numbers and email addresses sometimes change due to spam problems. The most STABLE way to communicate with us is to visit www.Water4Gas.com and enter the Support/Contact page.Want to talk to Ozzie Freedom in person and see his car? Visit www.Water4Gas.com and check out the EVENTS section.Just do me one little favor: our lines are very busy and we would like to get only the calls and emails that only relate to us. When contacting regarding a purchase of some sort, please make sure you have the correct company. We sell nothing directly to the public, not even books and DVD's, so most probably you have purchased from an independent third-party


GST #29





vendor. Our company's name is not Water4Gas (there is no such company in fact), our name is 1 Freedom, Incorporated, and we are PUBLISHERS, not system manufacturers. DVD's are sold at www.Water4GasDVD.com which is, like everything else, an independent vendor.

TECH SUPPORTTECH SUPPORT

BACKGROUND

Between mid 2006 and mid 2009, all technical support has been given by myself, Ozzie Freedom, and my staff in the USA. This has helped tens of thousands of experimenters and students, and we've learned a lot. However, the never-ending demand for contact has exhausted my funds and my physical ability to answer 1000's of emails and phone calls per month, sometimes per week.

SITUATION

To solve this problem, this book is now being released to millions of experimenters. Please understand that there is no way that I, with all my willingness to help, can answer millions of phone calls and emails personally. However, here’s a solution…

SOLUTION

The website www.Water4Gas.com has the latest contact and instructions in the Support/Contact section. The principle of tech support as it outlines at the time of writing is that you can get help from other readers WHO HAVE ALREADY HAD SUCCESS AND EXPERIENCE, and as you grow and get more experience you may choose to help others too.

In short, the new arrangement is that the readers now help other readers, via the web platform that we have built for you.






NEED VEHICLE-SPECIFIC INFORMATION?NEED VEHICLE-SPECIFIC INFORMATION?In case you fix or at least diagnose the vehicle yourself, you may find this resource very useful. For one low fee, ALLDATA gives you all you need:

• DETAILED WIRING DIAGRAMS,

• Factory Diagnostic Flow Charts,

• Factory Repair Procedures,

• Diagrams with Part Numbers,

• Trouble Codes,

• Research Tools and much more,

• Updated and original – better and deeper information than a printed manual!

www.water4gas.com/1/vehicledata.htm






CHAPTER 12CHAPTER 12WHAT’S NEXT?WHAT’S NEXT?

I'M GLAD YOU HAVE THIS BOOK!I'M GLAD YOU HAVE THIS BOOK!This is only one book out of a complete series. If you're not signed up yet to receive the complete series, please do so by joining Water4Gas at www.Water4Gas.com/join.htm

I'm sure that reading this book and experimenting with the technology has enhanced your belief that water-fuel and the conversion of water-to-energy are DOABLE.

Your next step is to make full use of the knowledge you now have, for your benefit and for the benefit of your environment. Now you can take one or both lines of action:

1. Make yourself a system to install in your car or fleet, or...

2. Get ready-made systems (or professional installation) from www.Water4Gas.com

YOUR HELP NEEDED - HELP US AND MAKE $$$ TOOYOUR HELP NEEDED - HELP US AND MAKE $$$ TOOAdditional sources of income for you: help us spread the good word about Water4Gas! The world MUST be informed about this technology! Enjoy this exciting new technology – and tell your friends about your Water4Gas system and knowledge. You can use it in many ways:

• You can teach this knowledge! TEACHERS – did you know that I've permitted my Water4Gas DVD's for public showing? You're welcome to show them in your school or town, whether for a fee or free-of-charge, as you like.

• You can manufacture Water4Gas systems and part kits for others. You can also chose to make various other things that the world needs in this field such as ready-made charged water, maintenance of systems, installation services, as well as many other ways to use this technology in business.

• You can promote Water4Gas DVD's and many other products by becoming an affiliate, and earn WITHOUT HAVING TO MANUFACTURE OR DELIVER ANYTHING!

• You can help the MOVEMENT by contributing in various ways to our ACTIVISM – visit www.Water4Gas.com to see what's cooking and what's needed today.

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR PARTICIPATION AND SUPPORT!!!

“Check out Water4Gas.comand discover money-making programs and opportunities.”

Ozzie FreedomFounder, Water4Gas


http://www.water4gas.com/





CHAPTER 13CHAPTER 13GLOSSARYGLOSSARY

UNIT CONVERTERUNIT CONVERTERMiles to kilometers? Grams? Ounces? Would you like a SIMPLE conversion tool that does not need to be purchased or installed? Visit the simple converter www.flowmeterdirectory.com/flowmeter_unit_converter/index.htm

or www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter

or the very extensive collection of converters at www.unitconversion.org

HOW DO YOU DEFINE 'WATER4GAS'? HOW DO YOU DEFINE 'WATER4GAS'? The term “Water4Gas” has evolved through the years. It started in 2006 as my trademark for my website, promoting Bill Lang's experimental kits, and my Water4Gas DIY books. During 2006-2007, the term Water4Gas used to describe low-cost DIY technology to produce hydrogen on demand. In the public's mind, for the most part, Water4Gas was the home-made glass jar Electrolyzer and nothing else. But that was a very limited view as can be seen now from my books and DVD's.

The official definition from those early days used to say: "Water4Gas: A combined technology to convert water to energy. Consists of an Electrolyzer (or several Electrolyzer cells) installed on board a vehicle or any other ICE [internal combustion engine], plus a set of fuel economy enhancers, fuel additives and other techniques."

From the start, and today too, the purpose of this do-it-yourself (DIY) tech has been only to be an eye opener – to educate the general public, that was once unfamiliar with Hydrogen-on-demand (HOD) or any doable “water-fuel” technology – that it CAN be done by the common man, anywhere in the world.

Being simple and affordable and easy to replicate, I intended this tech to open the doors for the big guys - the higher and more expensive HOD technology and products - and therefore I insisted that the DIY tech should be positioned as a door opener and not as a replacement or a rival technology or product. DIY cannot be everything for everybody, because not everybody wants or is able to make technical things by herself or himself, not to mention installation, mileage tuning, etc.

Late 2007 and all during 2008, the term Water4Gas caught on and became a household name for anything from “water car,” an obscure term in itself, to all sorts of versions of HOD systems, books, videos and plans. Some folks started naming age-old technologies such as Dennis Klein's by the name Water4Gas... Much like the trademark Xerox™ (trademark of Xerox™ corporation) has become a term for all photocopy machines and processes, Water4Gas became the most common term for water fuel.

Nowadays, since Water4Gas has expanded its scope into representing and actively supporting the entire HOD industry, and since everybody's invited to ride the wave, it


http://www.unitconversion.org/

http://www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/

http://www.flowmeterdirectory.com/flowmeter_unit_converter/index.htm



would be more appropriate to define Water4Gas as any technology to produce fuel - or fuel assistance - from water. Some portions of the technology are not public domain and are protected by Patents and other methods of profit protection, yet the industry as a whole deserves support for the sake of the economy and the planet.

Therefore, the term Water4Gas, now in actual fact describes all sorts of Hydrogen-On-Demand or Water-Fuel technology, products and related services such as HOD installations and mileage tuning.

DEFINITIONS OF IMPORTANT METALS DEFINITIONS OF IMPORTANT METALS Titanium, Niobium (commonly known as columbium), Platinum: precious metallic elements used for many purposes. In our interest, these metals are useful for creating highly durable anodes. In the proper structures and combinations, anodes made with these elements will endure electrolysis for many years. Read more about these metals. Maybe it's due of its price or something else, but we do not use Tantalum although it's also highly resistive to corrosion, too.

Platinized Niobium (wires): These are actually Copper wires, covered with a thick layer (almost 20% of the diameter) of Niobium and then plated again with a thin layer (less than 1% of the diameter) of Platinum on the outside.

Steel: An alloy (combination of metals and/or minerals) which contains iron as the main constituent, with carbon (and other materials depending on the specific formula) added for strength, flexibility, etc.

Stainless Steel: Steel containing chromium to make it resistant to corrosion. It has many "grades", with each such grade actually constituting a formula of different additives, aimed at different applications.

302/304: Grade of stainless steel. Strong and durable under water.

316L: Grade of stainless steel. A bit softer than the 302/304 grade, due to lower carbon contents, yet even more durable under water during electrolysis for the very same reason. We use 316L to prevent fast oxidation of the Electrolyzer's electrodes, caused by the oxygen product of the electrolysis process.

DEFINITIONS BY ABC DEFINITIONS BY ABC 6-Pack: A unique Multi-Cell Water4Gas system, that became popular especially between truckers. See definition of Multi-Cell.

AC: Alternating current. Electrical energy (electrical current, voltage) which alternates cyclically between positive and negative in polarity.

Acetone: A highly flammable, colorless solvent. Also known as propanone, dimethyl ketone, and other names. It is readily soluble in water, ethanol, ether, etc., and itself serves as an important solvent (actually the strongest consumer-grade solvent available to us). Its most familiar household use is as the active ingredient in nail polish remover. Also used to make plastic, fibers, drugs and other chemicals. Pure Acetone used to be considered a major fuel saving additive, however recently we've found that its side effects drive most experimenters to steer away from Acetone as a fuel additive. Use Xylene instead!




Ampere (amp): A measure for electrical flow. How many electrical particles flowing in a conductor (wire, resistor, etc) per unit of time.

Anchor: So many readers have asked what this mysterious "anchor" was. To my amazement, they were telling me that the guys in the hardware store didn't know... Well it's so simple that it sounds stupid. An anchor is one of those pieces of plastic that you stick into a hole in the wall to hold a screw. That's all. I found it cheap and useful as a diffuser. Now a diffuser, in simple words, is just like that aquarium stone that makes lots of bubbles out of the air hose. The anchor, if you chop its thin edge (about 1/3 off) does that too. Not tiny bubbles, but it does the job. Alternatively replace the 'anchor' with any diffuser you can put your hands on: an irrigation tip of some sort, an aquarium stone, etc.

Anode: The positive-charged pole (wire or plate) in an Electrolyzer or battery. The electrode with the positive voltage. In an Electrolyzer, this is where the oxygen is being produced.

Atom: Once thought to be the smallest part of an element or substance. Today we know it's not so - it is made of "sub-atomic particles" such as electrons - that can probably be broken down further.

Atomize: Making liquid or substance into a mist.

Baking Soda: The household name for Sodium Bicarbonate. A popular catalyst for Electrolyzers. Non toxic (used in food, for dental health, etc.) and is a user friendly alternative to other catalysts. Note: the only "baking soda" suitable for electrolysis is PURE SODIUM BICARBONATE. No sugar or leavening stuff please.

Bio fuel or Biofuel: Fuel (for transportation, in our case) made from "biomass" - biological sources such as corn or wood that have completed their life cycle; environment friendly. Biofuel could be liquid, gas or solid.

Blow by (gas): Gases that skip past the piston rings in an engine; normally routed back into the intake via the PCV valve.

Brown's Gas: A mixture of hydrogen and oxygen. The product of the Electrolyzer. Named after Prof. Yull Brown but also goes by many other names: Rhode’s Gas, after it earlier researcher, Dr. William A. Rhodes; also called HHO (Hydrogen-Hydrogen-Oxygen), hydroxy, oxy-hydrogen, green gas, di-hydroxy, watergas or water gas, WaterFuel or water fuel, etc.

In Korea they call it “Brown Gas” - Korea by the way has very good technology of HHO generators for industry. Brown's Gas is great not only for supplemental fuel for engines, but also good for cutting metal, soldering, brazing (joining metals at high temperatures), as well as the welding of various metals inexpensively (compared to the commonly used welding with acetylene).

When separating water into its Brown's Gas state, each Gallon of water expands into gigantic proportions – 1,860 Gallons of highly combustible gas! When ignited (by spark, flame or compression), Brown's Gas implodes. An implosion of that amount would result is the release of 1,859 parts of vacuum energy (imagine the energy released by combusting 1,859 gallons of highly inflammable gas) PLUS one part reverted back to 1 gallon of water. In other words, 99.95% of Brown's Gas turns into energy upon ignition.

Bubbler: A safety-enhancing device (or part of a device) to bubble air through water in an Electrolyzer. It could be a stand-




alone device, however in our DIY Electrolyzer and also in our Vaporizer, the bubbler is built-in so no external bubbler is necessary.

Bungee: Type of stretchy cord with anchors at each end, used for tying or stabilizing objects.

Carb: Carburetor.

Catalyst: A material used to induce or enhance the chemical reaction between other materials without being changed in the process.

Cathode: The negative-charged pole (wire, plate) in an Electrolyzer or battery. The electrode with the negative voltage. In an Electrolyzer, this is where the hydrogen is being produced.

Cell (or Electrolyzer cell): Defined as one unit in an electrolysis system (a series of individual cells). By a certain arrangement of electrodes (when plates are used), a single device can have several cells. In Water4Gas Electrolyzers where electrodes are spiraled to save energy, each device (one jar) would constitute one cell.

Check Valve: A device that allows flow of gas or liquid in one direction only, usually through a hose or piping system. It closes automatically when the flow stops or is reversed.

CNG: Compressed Natural Gas (Methane).

Current: (in electricity) the movement of electrons through a conductor. Measured in Amperes. If for instance the conductor is copper, "electrons" are those particles of the copper atoms, which are leaving their place and moving along between other atoms in the copper.

D17: Refers to document D17.pdf written by Patrick Kelly titled "Dealing with the Vehicle Computer". The document is available on the Internet (search Google for "Dealing with the Vehicle Computer" WITH the quote marks). It tells you how to build this EFIE alternative, called D17 for lack of a better name.

def.: definition.

DC: Direct current. Electrical energy (electrical current, voltage) which does not alternate in polarity, in other words it keeps its positive and negative; and is also somewhat "stable", in other words it doesn't pulse. Even if it changes all the time, it could still be called DC if it has those characteristics.

DEMSE: Dual-Edge MAP Sensor Enhancer. A dual-knob device to adjust the air-to-fuel ratio in the mixture. Refer to DVD 3 for building it, and DVD 6 for tuning. Can be obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com

Distilled water: Water that has been "purified" of its contaminants, acids and minerals such as salt. Rain water and filtered water are not distilled water!!!





DIY: Do It Yourself.

DPDT: Double Pole, Double Throw. Switch type that can switch two circuits separately (that's the "double pole"), and is capable of making an electrical connection in each of its "throws" (sides of its motion).

ECU: 'Engine Control Unit' or 'Electronic Control Unit'. Sometimes called 'Powertrain Control Module' (PCM). Your car's computer. It's the heart of the engine management system in a modern car, collecting many inputs from sensors around the car and controlling all functions of the engine such as fuel injection and heat management.

Efficiency: The ratio of total output power to input power expressed as a percentage. A numerical expression of the ratio between waste and actual work done. For example a low-efficiency car engine uses most of its input to produce heat, noise and vibration, rather than forward motion.

EFI: Electronic Fuel Injection. The modern science of wasting gasoline.

EFIE: Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer, a device to correct the stoichiometric level programmed into a car in order to accommodate WaterFuel technology. Manufactured by Eagle Research, FuelSaver-MPG and others, and can be obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com

Electrode: A conductor (such as metal wire or plate) which dips into an electrolyte and allows the current (electrons) to flow to and from the electrolyte.

Electrolysis: When a direct current is passed through a liquid which contains ions (an electrolyte), chemical changes occur at the two electrodes; usually a separation of oxygen from hydrogen or other substances it is chemically bonded with. In our case the process of splitting water into hydrogen and oxygen.

Electrolyte: A solution of catalyst (see definition) in water in an Electrolyzer. We sometimes refer to the catalyst as electrolyte. That's a common mistake – the catalyst in our case would be the Sodium Bicarbonate ("baking soda") and the electrolyte would be the solution, or the mixture of Sodium Bicarbonate and water.

Electrolyzer: Water Fuel Cell (WFC). A device or machine that splits water into hydrogen and oxygen thus producing Brown's Gas or HHO. Common misnomers are 'hydrogen generator' and 'fuel cell'. Sometimes called 'cell', as in 'Joe cell'. Can be obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com

Electrolyzer cell: A single cell in an Electrolyzer or part of Multi-Cell system: an anode and a cathode immersed in an electrolyte. An Electrolyzer can have one cell or many. Also see 'cell'. Can be obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com

Emissions: Let's not go into science formulas here. I'll give you a very simple definition: If it stinks – it's emissions. Harmful emissions. There are emissions that are so called "odorless", but that is a misleading concept because the body senses it one way or another. Yes, we have become numb to harmful, very hostile emissions. But see, a hungry yet healthy cat will not touch a spoiled fish, even if you can't smell anything "fishy". Old-school chefs








will give a piece of the day's fish to the house cat. If the cat sniffs it but won't touch it, the fish goes to the garbage.

Now if you would thoroughly cleanse your body and move to a very clean village up the mountains for a while, immediately after your return (for possibly a short while before you become numb again) you'll be able to sniff all those "odorless" harmful emissions! Standards of government-permissible emissions are way too high health-wise, they are hostile to life and we should not agree with those anymore!

Energy: The capacity to do mechanical (such as motion) or electrical work (such as light or sound).

Ethanol: One of the reasons you've been losing mileage in recent years. Also known as ethyl alcohol, drinking alcohol or grain alcohol; it is a flammable, colorless, slightly toxic chemical compound. Produced from edible crops such as corn/sugar/maize, it is now used as a fuel additive enforced on drivers across the USA (10% blends), UK (5%?), Brazil (25%!), Sweden and others. With only 2/3 of the energy of gasoline, it requires MORE petroleum import for every gallon of ethanol we use.

Exothermic: (of chemical reaction or compound) Releasing energy, usually in the form of HEAT. The word means "outside heating".

FE: Fuel Economy.

FIP: Female Iron Pipe. For the fuel heater we use brass, not iron. Yet the only term to describe female side is FIP. It will always be marked on the product, so pay attention when ordering or buying in the hardware store.

Free energy: Energy you did not have to pay for. It's a common concept between conventional scientists and "energy experts" that free energy is physically impossible. They are right - from their point of view - however that viewpoint has a major flaw. See, if a paid-for instrument or process, or just a change of usage to an existing instrument, brings you energy or extra energy you don't have to pay for, then IN THE BOTTOM LINE (in other words after your costs have been paid for) what you're getting now can surely be considered free energy.

All “free energy” methods and devices are based on this same basic principle – of becoming somewhat more efficient in extracting energy out of natural sources. Solar energy is one good example: you pay for the solar device (hopefully not an arm and a leg) and from that point on the sun gives you (not free yet) energy; the moment the solar device has finished paying for itself, it starts to produce TRULY “FREE” ENERGY. Per this definition, simply because you don't have top pay for it from that point in time.

Get it? Another example is Water4Gas technology – our “free energy” comes simply and directly from REDUCTION OF WASTE in our poorly-designed engines. Since we have oceans of water, any energy or energy savings derived CHEAPLY from water is considered “free,” economically speaking. If you have been conditioned to believe that free energy is not possible, change your thinking about it and you'll see many instances and opportunities of free energy. And, er, by the way, don't forget to tell your professor to have another look...




Fuel: Any substance (liquid, solid or gas) that releases its stored heat energy and turns it into actual heat and motion energy, when treated in a certain way such as by burning or by combustion in an engine. When the fuel is burned it is destroyed and leaves us with problematic pollutants. In this regard (harmful by-products of fuel burning), water is not "fuel" because when "burned" it reverts back to water vapor and oxygen that feeds back into the atmosphere.

Fuel cell: A device which produces electricity by using fuel (such as hydrogen) and a chemical which reacts with it at two electrical terminals, thus producing electric energy that can be used to drive a car or do other useful work. Calling an Electrolyzer "fuel cell" (or HHO fuel cell, etc.) is obviously a misnomer - an Electrolyzer inputs electricity and (in our use) outputs hydrogen, while a fuel cell normally takes in hydrogen and out comes electricity! Those are totally separate technologies. However, the public itself is a common and undeniable source of new words, so if so many people call an Electrolyzer "fuel cell", at a certain point you stop correcting them and it becomes a new term. Where does it stand now, nearing 2010? I am not sure, time will tell. Many fuel cell designs may be obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com

Fuel efficiency: Defined by the amount of work (how much motion, in the case of cars, or how many hours of operation for a lawnmower or generator) can be obtained for the amount of fuel we put in. Commonly called 'Fuel Economy' and measured by miles per gallon or kilometers per litre.

Fuel Heater: A device to safely heat up the fuel, using electrical power or better yet re-circulated heat from the engine. Reduces surface tension of the liquid fuel, thus causing finer air/fuel mixture droplets, resulting in better and fuller combustion of that mixture. Affordable Fuel Heaters can be obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com

Generator: A device that generates some sort of mechanical or electrical energy, or generates a substance (as in "hydrogen generator"). When mentioned in Water4Gas literature, we refer to stationary engines that are used to convert liquid fuel to other types of energy, usually electricity. Sometimes called 'Genset'.

Goop™: A brand name, short for Amazing GOOP® by Eclectic Products, inc. Very useful and popular glue, that is highly durable under high temperature (150-160° F) and under water.

GP-7™: An advanced fuel additive for 2-stroke engines, by Torco™ Racing Fuels, Inc.

GPH: Gallons Per Hour.

Green Gas: Another name for Brown's Gas.

GST: Gas Saving Technique for vehicles using WATER or Hydrogen-On-Demand. The term has been coined by Ozzie Freedom to describe a set of methods, devices and additives all working together to maximize your fuel economy, while also minimizing harmful emissions resulting from poor engine design and inefficient use.

HHO: Hydrogen+Hydrogen+Oxygen. The product of splitting water (H2O) into its components. Common name for Brown's Gas.






HOD: Hydrogen On Demand. A system to generate hydrogen on board the vehicle/generator only when the engine is running without storing any of it. It's called HOD whether it's a DIY or purchased from a developer – many system designs offered at our online catalog www.water4gas.com

Hydrogen: The lightest and most abundant element. A gaseous diatomic element (in simple words: gas that always has particles in pairs). The atom consists of one proton and one electron.

Hydroxy: Another name for Brown's Gas.

ICE: Internal Combustion Engine. The most common type of engine in cars, trucks, boats, motorcycles, tractors, light airplanes, generators and lawn mowers for the past 200 years.

Joe Cell: Type of Electrolyzer constructed of a series stainless steel tubing, one inside the other. Powerful yet relatively expensive and hard to replicate. Some people such as Bill Williams claimed to have run a vehicle exclusively on a Joe cell.

Knocking: Also called "pinging" - banging noise in the engine, caused by improper combustion.

kWh: Kilowatt hour(s).

Lean (mixture): Less fuel and more air in the air/fuel mixture. In accordance with common wisdom of modern automakers, the mixture must be 14.7 parts air to 1 part gasoline. But with supplemental hydrogen it can be significantly leaner.

LED: Light Emitting Diode.

MAF: Mass Air Flow. One of the inputs the ECU takes into consideration when determining the amount of fuel to be injected into the engine.

MAP (sensor): Manifold Air Pressure (sensor). It's part of the engine that comes with the car! Not included in every car design, even if model 1996 or newer.

MAP Sensor Enhancer: An electronic device that enhances fuel economy via the MAP Sensor - if the car has such a sensor. Some folks say "MAP Sensor" when they mean MAP Sensor Enhancer; please use proper terms. Can be obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com

Methane: Natural gas or Compressed Natural Gas (CNG).

MIP: Male Iron Pipe. For the fuel heater we use brass, not iron. Yet the only term to describe male side is MIP. It will always be marked on the product, so pay attention when ordering or buying in the hardware store.

Mixture: Other than the normal English definition of 'mixture', we use this term for the mixture of air and fuel, in a carburetor or fuel injection system of ICE.

Molecule: Compound of two or more atoms, the smallest independent unit of chemical compounds.

MPG: Miles Per Gallon. The most common expression of fuel economy, the higher the better. In the metric system it would be expressed in KPL or kilometers per liter. Some






use miles per liter, which gets confusing. Here's a simple conversion between those: -if you have MPG and you want miles per litre - divide by 4.545-if you have miles per litre and you want KPL - multiply by 1.601-if you have MPG and you want KPL - divide by 2.839 (in other words 1 MPG = 0.35 KPL)

mV: milliVolts.

mL or ml: milliliter, one thousandth of a liter.

Multi-Cell: A HOD system built from several cells for better thermal efficiency (good solution to thermal runaway) and higher HHO production. Several multi-cell designs can be obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com

Nitrogen: An odorless, gaseous element that makes up 78% of the earth's atmosphere, and is a constituent of all living tissue. It is almost inert (limited in ability to react chemically) in its gaseous form.

NOx: Gases consisting of one molecule of nitrogen and varying numbers of oxygen molecules. Nitrogen oxides are produced in the emissions of vehicle exhausts and from power stations. In the atmosphere, nitrogen oxides can contribute to formation of photochemical ozone (smog), can impair visibility, and have health consequences; they are thus considered pollutants. [EPA]

O2: Oxygen.

Octane rating: A number representing the ability of gasoline to control pre-detonation, in other words its anti-knock capability; not necessarily a better fuel for a certain job.

Odometer: Mileage or kilometer gauge.

On board: Mounted on (or in) a vehicle.

On-Board Diagnostics, or OBD: A generic term referring to a vehicle's self-diagnostic and reporting capability. OBD systems give the vehicle owner or a repair technician access to state of health information for various vehicle sub-systems. We refer to it as a generic term for the entire "program" running the vehicle, including its usage of energy in various conditions. While there are differences between vehicles, OBD-I generally refers to pre-1996 vehicles and the more advanced (and more pervasive) system OBD-II refers to models 1996 and newer. In some newer models OBD-II is replaced or supplemented with what's called CAN (Controller Area Network) where on board devices can talk to each other without going through the ECU.

Oz or Ounce: An imperial (non-metric) measuring unit. It is used both for volume and (but a different unit!!!) for mass or weight. Which gets very confusing sometimes. When we speak of ounces we're usually talking about liquid volume. When you use the unit converters (see top of glossary) to convert ounces to grams or liters, be sure to use the proper setting for your calculations - mass (weight) or volume.

Oxygen: A non-metallic gaseous element that makes up 21% of the atmosphere.

Oxygen sensor or O2 sensor: An electronic device that measures the proportion of oxygen (O2) in the gas or liquid being analyzed. Used in science labs. In modern





vehicles it is a small sensor inserted into the exhaust system to measure the concentration of oxygen remaining in the exhaust gas to allow the ECU to control the efficiency of the combustion process in the engine. A "side effect" of oxygen sensors is that they can disrupt fuel-saving technologies that create a lean fuel-air mixture. If the engine burns too lean due to any modifications (such as adding oxygen from an Electrolyzer), the sensor will detect the mixture as being too lean, and the engine computer will adjust the injector pulse duration, so that the air-fuel mixture continues to stay within the stoichiometric (see definition) ratio of 14.7:1 on a typical vehicle.

There are ways that the oxygen sensor can be overcome. Sometimes, a device can be inserted inline with the sensor, which tricks the engine computer into thinking the mixture is stoichiometric, when actually it is either rich, or lean, and therefore, this modification will not be automatically corrected by the oxygen sensor. [source: Wikipedia]

Oxyhydrogen or oxy-hydrogen: Another name for Brown's Gas.

PCV: Positive Crankcase Ventilation, a system using a PCV valve to evacuate "blow by gases" and moisture from the crankcase of an internal combustion engine. Well, that's the official definition anyway... In fact, blow by gases are a whole lot of junk: burnt and un-burnt fuel and oil escaping from the cylinder, past the piston rings (much more if you have worn-out rings) during a piston's power stroke, and into the crankcase. These by-products of combustion form acid and sludge in the crankcase and cause smoke. And, naturally, they do not help mileage either when the PCV system "re-circulates" this junk back into the intake manifold - the breathing part of the engine. The air entering the engine should NOT have sludge added to it! It must breathe clean air in order to work properly. And this is where the PCV Enhancer comes into the picture.

PCV Valve: Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve, a one-way valve that ensures continual re-circulates junk from a gasoline internal combustion engine's crankcase. More details in PCV.

PCV Enhancer: A device to clean the blow-by gases (see PCV) so they do not re-enter the engine. Can be obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com

Petrol: A mixture of various hydrocarbons used as a fuel (in the USA we call it 'gas').

Ping or pinging: Also called "knocking" - banging noise in the engine, caused by improper combustion.

Pot: Short for potentiometer - any type of a variable resistor, whether rotary or slide. Regardless of its shape, and apart from it's resistance that's different from one to the other, pots come in two electrically different versions that are very important to understand. There's the non-linear (or "logarithmic") type, which is good for audio amplifiers use. However, for the MAP Sensor Enhancer we want the LINEAR type, which means the resistance is spread evenly as you turn the knob.

Potassium Hydroxide: NaOH, lye. A common catalyst used in Electrolyzers. Quite toxic and corrosive, has much more user friendly alternatives such as Baking Soda and Sodium Citrate.

PWM: Pulse Width Modulator. A device that controls the amount of power delivered to an Electrolyzer (also used for controlling electrical motors and other devices). We do it





by changing the ratio of ON time to OFF time, thus creating an effect of reduced overall energy, over time in general, delivered to the Electrolyzer. Another good reason to use PWM in HHO production is to excite the electrodes many times a second, resulting in a more efficient, less heat producing electrolysis. Can be obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com

Rich (mixture): More fuel and less air in the air/fuel mixture. In accordance with common wisdom of modern automakers, the mixture should be ideal at 14.7 parts air to 1 part gasoline. But with supplemental hydrogen it can be significantly leaner. Therefore ANY number beyond the very minimum really needed can be considered "rich". I know it's not conventional wisdom but in a decaying planet we must try to prevent ANY waste of energy, even a drop adds up to a river.

Scangauge-II: The most popular scanner between "mileage seekers" due to its ease of use and its capability to display instant or averaged MPG, between many other codes and vehicle conditions such as temperature. Can be obtained from the Internet or though one of the vendors on our online catalog at www.water4gas.com

Scanner: An electronic device, usually hand-held, that reads and sometimes re-programs vehicle computer error codes.

Short (circuit): Electricity taking a "shortcut" due to a (greatly) reduced resistance than the proper path, resulting in very high (and uncontrolled) electrical current. Usually ends up in fire or severe damage.

Sodium Bicarbonate: Baking Soda, in slang. A popular catalyst for Electrolyzers. Non toxic (used in food, for dental health, etc.) and is a user friendly alternative to other catalysts.

Sodium Citrate: An optional catalyst for Electrolyzers. Non toxic (used as food ingredient in ice cream, cream cheese, etc) and is a user friendly alternative to other catalysts. Not as cheap as Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) but keeps the Electrolyzer cleaner.

Sodium Hydroxide: NaOH, known as lye or caustic soda. A common catalyst used in Electrolyzers. Quite toxic and corrosive, has much more user friendly alternatives such as Baking Soda and Sodium Citrate.

SPDT: Single Pole, Double Throw. Switch type that can switch one circuit (hence "single pole"), and is capable of making an electrical connection in each of its "throws" (sides of its motion).

Spiral: a coiled shape, like the thread of a screw or like a coil spring. The difference between 'coil' and 'spiral' is that a coil can be winding upon itself, but a spiral is spread out through space. When an electric current is flowing in a spiral conductor (wire), it creates a magnetic vortex (rapidly spinning flow, like a whirlpool).

Stoichiometric: Describing a (fuel/air) mixture of "proper" proportions. According to automotive conventional wisdom it should be 14.7:1 but in actual fact these are arbitrary numbers. A car can drive just as nicely on 25:1. In fact if you were to design it in a slightly different way (ignition timing and valve timing are major players in this game), then its so-called "Stoichiometric" balance would now be 25:1 (for example).

Thermal Runaway: Might happen in an Electrolyzers, refers to a situation where an increase in temperature changes the conditions in a way that causes a further increase in temperature leading to a destructive result.






Tower: A common name for the Water4Gas Electrolyzer core, used for holding the wire electrodes in place. Can be obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com

Tuner: Auto mechanic that specializes in tuning vehicles and engines for best performance, or maximal fuel economy, or both.

VAC: Volts Alternating Current.

Vaporization: The physical change of going from a solid or a liquid into a gaseous state.

Vaporizer: A device that adds water vapor to the air/fuel mixture of a vehicle's engine in order to boost its power, improve combustion (and in many cases also fuel economy) and reduce harmful emissions. Can be obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com or you can do it yourself for under $5.

VDC: Volts Direct Current.

Voltage: Measure of electrical tension or “pressure.” The measurement unit is Volt, named after the Italian physicist Count Alessandro Giuseppe Antonio Anastasio Volta (1745–1827).

Voltage offset: Voltage added to the output signal of the oxygen sensor. The combined signal (with the offset) is fed back to the ECU.

Water: An oxide (chemical bond with oxygen) of hydrogen. Very deep oceans, as well as many seas, lakes and glaciers, cover 71.11% of the Earth's surface, making water one of the most abundant compounds on Earth.

How much do we have? Some calculations showed that we have not less than a staggering 326,000,000,000,000,000,000 gallons of water or in other words 326 million trillion gallons - 1,260,000,000,000,000,000,000 liters – right here on our little planet. If we could make the dream of turning water into energy a common reality, we would have all the energy we need for millions of years! I believe we can do this with EXISTING technology – read Water4Gas Book 6 “Water-Fuel DREAM or SCIENCE?” and see what the scientists say.

In its pure state such as distilled water – H2O molecule shown in the diagram - water does not conduct electricity. But with a relatively small amount of electricity and a little help from a catalyst, water can be be electrolyzed (hence separated) into its hydrogen and oxygen components.

Water is an amazing substance that absorbs and releases energy in very interesting ways, and has at least FOUR states – but only the first three are taught in our schools, namely liquid which we simply call “water,” solid which we call “ice,” and a gaseous state which is water vapor or steam. What is not normally realized is that water has a very significant forth state called Brown's Gas (see definition), named after its famous researcher Professor Yull Brown.

Water Gas, Watergas, WaterFuel or Water-Fuel: Usually these are more names for Brown's Gas. However, I see it in the broader view of ANY method of using water to






enhance fuel or AS FUEL. Read Water4Gas Book 6 “Water-Fuel DREAM or SCIENCE?” for the eye-opening details.

Watt-hour: a unit of work. A simple multiplication of the number of Watt (which expresses how many electrons flow in a given unit of time) by the number of hours that this number of Watts is applied. Or, in the case of a battery, how many hours can the battery provide those Watts before it's depleted.

Watt(s): A measurement unit of electrical power; not potential power (voltage) but actual work done. Expresses how many electrons flow in a given unit of time. To find the "wattage" or in a simple word electrical Power, multiply Volts by Amps. Named after Scottish engineer and inventor James Watt (1736-1819).

WFC or Water Fuel Cell: Common name for Electrolyzer. Can be obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com

Xylene: Most will say it is a paint thinner or cleaner, and this is where you would normally find it – on the shelf of your paint department or paint store. But FireNet International (UK) says it is actually part of gasoline: "Dimethylbenzene. An aromatic compound having the formula C6H4(CH3)2. Xylene is a major component of gasoline."

Yull Brown: Professor Yull Brown is famous for researching, experimenting and patenting his knowledge on what we now call Brown's Gas. Born 1922 in Bulgaria as Ilya Velbov. Trained as electrical engineer, Brown moved to Australia in 1958 and worked as a laboratory technician. Later in July 1973 (then also in 1974) he filed for his first electrolysis patents in Australia, 7 years after William A. Rhodes filed for his patents on the subject of water electrolysis (US Patent # 3,262,872, July 1966, and another one in 1967).

See Australian Patent # 4159/73 from 1973, and US Patent # 4,014,777 from March 29, 1977. More details in Water4Gas Book 6 “Water-Fuel DREAM or SCIENCE?”

Yull Brown spent many years demonstrating the viability of his technology and convincing others of its commercial value: how to use Brown's Gas for welding, to reduce nuclear and toxic waste to harmless carbon, to fuel a vehicle and more.

Brown died at Westmead Hospital in Auburn, Australia, on May 22, 1998, with his loved ones at his side.

At the time of writing, after years of experimenting myself with HHO gas, I'm still not sure if HHO and Brown's Gas are one and the same, however it is certain that HHO gas and Brown's gas are in the public's mind the best memorial to Yull Brown's tremendous work.

Recommended reading – for your further research – and for better understanding of the terms, Patents and science associated with Water4Gas technology:

Book 6 “Water-Fuel DREAM or SCIENCE?” - get free from www.water4gas.com






CHAPTER 14CHAPTER 14GET ALMOST-LIVE TRAININGGET ALMOST-LIVE TRAINING

FROM OZZIE FREEDOMFROM OZZIE FREEDOM

Water4GasDVD.com (an independent company located in Los Angeles) now offers the new 10-disc DVD Set that follows the materials of this book.

With this Water4Gas DVD Set you will be able to sit in the comfort of your living room and WATCH OZZIE FREEDOM as he shows you every little detail. You will be able to FOLLOW OZZIE'S HANDS AND TOOLS as he builds every part of the simple system right before your eyes. Every little part is shown and specified. It is permissible and recommended to teach school classes, LOCAL audiences (not TV/web broadcast) and your local mechanics with this set. Show it to your politicians, journalists and opinion leaders.

The new Water4Gas set includes seven full-length DVD's (80-90minutes each), jam-packed with information and how-to's. With three extra CD's for worldwide parts list, troubleshooting and more, there is a total of 10 discs in the set. Ships internationally. Order the complete set from www.Water4GasDVD.com






THIS BOOK IS COPYRIGHTED TO OZZIE FREEDOM.

THIS BOOK MAY NOT BE SOLD, GIVEN AWAY OR DISTRIBUTED IN ANY WAY, SHAPE OR FORM!!! SEND YOUR FRIENDS TO GET THEIR OWN COPY FROM WATER4GAS.COM - THANK YOU!

Dear Reader,

Although this book is copyrighted, Water4Gas technology is FREE TO USE for all your private AND commercial uses (third party products, trademarks and logos that may be mentioned or linked from this book, are proprietary to their respective companies).

The distribution of this book was made possible thanks to generous sponsorships by the following:

The author, Ozzie Freedom www.OzzieFreedom.com

The DVD seller www.Water4GasDVD.com

-and above all-

www.topNRG.com/sponsor

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