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Materials & Tools Liquid Marble kitsSpreader toolPlastic paint stirrerBrushes (for cutting in)Latex glovesGogglesMasking tapeSand paper (120-grit)Drop sheetsBag of lint-free ragsMethylated spirits (for clean up)Large garbage bag Step-by-Step

Step 1 - Surface Preparation

Surface preparation is very important and should be done thoroughly. The steps taken will depend on the condition of the concrete. If you’re unsure on how to approach surface preparation, seek professional advice.

Contaminated concrete: To determine if your concrete is contaminated with oil or grease, drip a small amount of water onto the surface. If the water beads, the concrete should be degreased with a degreaser before any other surface preparation is performed. Painted or sealed concrete: For best results, previous paints or sealers should be removed with a diamond grinder prior to the application of Liquid Marble.

Moisture in concrete:To test if their is a moisture issue in the concrete, tape a 60cm x 60cm plastic sheet to the floor with duct tape and leave for 24 hours. If water droplets appear on the underside of the plastic or if the concrete appears darker in this area, your slab could have excess moisture and may need treatment before being coated. Allow 24 hours before repeating the test and if it persists seek professional advice.

Loose concrete and dust:If Liquid Marble is applied onto loose or chipped concrete, or if excess concrete dust is present on the surface, it can lead to adhesion issues. Ensure all loose material is removed from the surface and damaged areas are repaired prior to application.

Flatness, Smoothness and Projections:Application onto concrete that isn’t flat, smooth and free from projections may lead to colour, pattern and gloss inconsistencies. For best results, the substrate should not deviate more than the following distances under a straight edge tool: 3mm over 3m (flatness), 1mm over 150mm (smoothness) or 0.5mm over 50mm (projections). If required, consult a professional about levelling before applying Liquid Marble.

Cracks: Large cracks will be visible in the finish and can mimic the natural character of marble if left untreated. If you pre-fer to fill them, this can be done with the Liquid Marble resin (clear repair) or specialist crack filler. There are no guarantees when treating cracks, however, and they may become visible once more if further movement occurs.

New concrete:Allow new concrete to harden for 28 days before conducting surface preparation as per instructions below.

Preparation instructions:Diamond grind or acid etch to obtain a clean, granular/rough feel. Grinding equipment can be hired and acid etchers are readily available from major hardware stores. Follow etching instructions carefully.

In summary, properly prepared surfaces should be structurally sound and free of contamination, laitance and any loose material. Ensure prepared surface is clean, dry and dust-free again if there’s a delay between preparation and application.

Warehouse Look Instruction Sheet

Porous surfaces:After preparation has been completed, it’s recommended to test the porosity of the concrete by dripping a small amount of water onto the surface once more.

If the water is quickly absorbed, the finish of your floor may benefit from applying an extra Sealer coat first (at a coverage of 40m2 per kit) to prevent the First Coat from soaking in too much.

Step 2 - Setting Up Watch the application video and read these instructions in full before getting started.

Get all your tools and the mix area ready before mixing. The mix area shouldn’t be too far away, cordoned off if possible and with product laid out neatly (in a cool place, away from direct sunlight). Make sure it’s big enough to allow plenty of room to move and work cleanly. Use drop sheets to protect from splashes/spills/drips, and have plenty of lint-free cotton rags and solvent for clean-up. It should also contain a separate clean area and a waste bin for discarded items.

Step 3 - Mark First Coat Coverage

Each kit on the First Coat will cover 40m2.

Plan how to progress across the area. Consider how and where you finish a kit, using joints as boundaries and keeping edges fresh so the next kit can be easily worked into the previous one. Large joints should never be covered with the resin because cracks can appear later on. Apply up to the edge and let it run into the joint instead of trying to fill or cover completely. Joints can be sealed with specialist joint sealants after application if desired.

Mark out sections of your floor corresponding to the area with masking tape as a guide to help you use the correct amount. Skipping this step can lead to incorrect film thicknesses and variable flooring results. Use this time to mask up any surfaces you wish to protect from accidental contact with the resin, e.g. skirting boards, drains, transition strips etc.

Step 4 - Mix First Coat

WARNING: Part B is a Class 8 Corrosive. For full safety instructions, consult SDS. Wear protective clothing, goggles and gloves to prevent skin and eye contact. Clean up can be made using methylated spirits or acetone.

Pre-mix all pigment pot into Part A first with a plastic paint stirrer. Pour Part B into Part A and mix for 2 minutes or until a consistent colour is obtained, scraping sides to ensure all product is taken in.

Additional mixing notes:• Do not leave container in direct sunlight as heat will

accelerate hardening reaction.• Only mix and apply one kit at a time. • Keep mixing any product left in bucket that’s waiting

to be poured and spread. This will avoid settling and ensure a consistent colour throughout the mix.

Step 5 - Apply First Coat Start in the far corner, progressing across the room and back towards the point of exit. Work in thin strips – no more than 1 metre wide so that you’re not working beyond your reach – and pour out an even line along the middle using the appropriate amount of resin.

Example: For a 8m wide x 5m garage (40m2 total), split the room into five sections and spread one fifth of the mixed kit (1.3 litres) evenly across each.

Spread each line with the spreading tool, using only enough pressure to achieve a roughly even film thickness. The tool should be pulled across the surface in a smooth, flowing action, pulling a small puddle along the front edge. Focus on making sure all the concrete is covered rather than smoothness as the resin will level by itself. Don’t be too concerned with overlaps, drips and small variations in thickness. Each kit must be applied within the pot life times listed in the Cure Schedule table to ensure best results. The quality of finish may decline outside of these times.

Table - Liquid Marble Cure Schedule Temp. Pot Life Re-coat Light Traffic15oC 40 min. 36-48

hours48 hours after final coat

25oC 20 min. 18-24 hours

24 hours after final coat

35oC 10 min. 9-12 hours

24 hours after final coat

Application hints and tips:• Do not apply in temperatures lower than 5oC.• If an extra Sealer Coat is required for porous concrete,

a lint-free roller is the best way to ensure a thin, even coat is applied.

• For best results, apply the First and Second Coats with the spreader tool. It doesn’t leave fibres or bubbles behind and is faster than rolling. It can also be used on your knees or leaning over and follows the natural undulations in the floor.

• Watch the application video before starting to get a better picture of how the product behaves under the spreading tool.

• You can easily cut in open flat edges with the spreader tool, but for finer detail and around odd shapes you’ll need a brush. Pour a thin bead of resin approximately 5-10cm from the edge and use the brush to spread it evenly into place.

• The listed coverage is the maximum for one Liquid Marble kit. Kits can be split and applied across smaller areas if required. One litre can be made by mixing 700g/620mL of Part A with 390g/380mL of Part B.

• If you have too much debris in the resin pool in front of the squeegee then stop, clean the squeegee, wipe up the resin pool (and debris) and start again.

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• If you haven’t used a specialist repair product during surface preparation but would like to reduce the size of some cracks, you can pour some resin into the lines of the cracks first and let it fill while you start spreading. By the time you’ve reach that area during application, the resin will have penetrated into the crack and you can simply wipe any excess off the top with the spreading tool.

Step 6 - Sand First Coat

Once the First Coat is hard enough to walk back onto (see Step 4 - Re-coat Times in the Liquid Marble Cure Schedule table), carefully walk back on the floor and use sand paper to remove any peaks. Using a sanding pad attached to a extension pole works well for this task. This will ensure a smooth finish overall and makes it easier to apply the Second Coat. Use a dust mop and solvent wipe the floor afterwards to pick up all the loose bits and dust. If you don’t remove this dust and debris, you could end up with streaks in the Second Coat.

Step 7 - Repeat Steps 2-5 For Second Coat

Repeat steps 2-5 for the Second Coat.

Each kit on the Second Coat will cover 40m2 (same as the First Coat).

Once completed, the floor will be ready for light traffic in 24 hours and reach full hardness over 7 days. Storage & Disposal Keep containers closed when not in use. Store below 50oC. Do not store in direct sunlight. Shelf life is at least 12 months in original, unopened container. Seek advice from your local council regarding accepted disposal methods.

First Aid

CAUTION: KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. IF ON SKIN: Remove immediately all contaminated clothing. Rinse skin with water. IF IN EYES: Rinse cautiously with water for several minutes. Immediately call a POISON CENTRE (Australia - 13 11 26) or doctor/physician. If skin irritation occurs: Get medical advice/attention.

Ph: 1300 EPOXIES www.RealWorldEpoxies.com Our technical advice, whether verbal or in writing, is given in good faith but without warranty. This also applies where proprietary rights of third parties are involved. It does not release the user from the obligation to test the products supplied for their suitability in the intended processes and uses.