watch world magazine - spring 2014 in
TRANSCRIPT
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WatchWorldhigh-end brands, models, technology and design
An uplifting new tourbillon from Herms New models from Hublot, Longines, Chopard, Arnold & Son
and many more Whats the most popular young watch brand? A book about a Breitling: chapter 1
olume 9 issue 30, 2014 6,99
0024
AudemarsPiguetJaeger-LeCoultreA.Lange&ShneBaume&MercierMontblancCartierParmigianiFleurier
IWCGreubelForsey
RalphLaurenPanerai
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leRogerDubuisVanCleef&Arpel
sVacheronConstantin
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AudemarsPiguetACEtheplays
ThenewRoyalOakOffshoreChronograph42mmisourfutureiconAPsOctavioGarcia
page31
0 1
771567 671002
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RUBRIEK
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CONTENT
MOMENT IN TIME10 1/1,000th of a second makes the difference between gold or silver
SMALL SECONDS
12 Novak Djokovic with Seiko on centre court, four times the Chinese Year
of the Horse, two typical British watches plus more news, facts & figures
and key players from the world of haute horlogerie
ARTISTS IMPRESSION16 The time in black and white, thanks to the Domino Clock
WHATS GOING ON(LINE)18 0024 on the world wide web: what can you expect from us?
RETROSPECTIVE20 With Shakespeares Full fathom five thy father lies in mind Blancpain
dove to the depths of the sea
0024 MARKET SCAN22 The resurrection of the haute horlogerie after the turbulent eighties
analysed with figures
SIHH 201425 The house of cards built by the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie
was sturdy and solidly: all 16 brands of the Richemont Group surprised the
audience with exciting trump cards and haute horlogerie novelties
54 One of the highlights of the SIHH: planetary poetry above Paris and the
Dutch village Nijehaske, with Van Cleef & Arpels
PHOTOSHOOT58 Time goes round: 11 watches with a round case
INTERVIEW
66 Since the launch of the Arceau Lift, Herms writes Haute Horlogerie with
a capital H, according to Luc Perramond
ESSAY70 First chapter of the book Once Upon a Timepiece, a novel made of
12 short stories starring a Breitling Chronomat from 1946
PRE-BASELWORLD 201474 A whirlwind of new models is on its way, so to be save weve already
picked 21 interesting BaselWorld novelties
COLUMN
80 Simon says: follow us online!
82 Karel Hubert wants to ask you one tiny favour: give a watch to your
beloved ones
SERVICE
35 Contact/subscription
WATCHWORLD
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TO BREAK THE RULES,
YOU MUST FIRST MASTER
THEM.
THE ROYAL OAK CONCEPT SERIES CONTINUES TO PUSH THE
BOUNDARIES OF AUDEMARS PIGUET SAVOIR-FAIRE. THIS
CONCEPT GMT TOURBILLON, WITH DUAL TIME FUNCTION,
FEATURES WHITE CERAMIC BEZEL, CROWN, PUSHER AND
BRIDGE. NINE TIMES HARDER THAN STEEL, CERAMIC IS
EXCEPTIONALLY DIFFICULT TO WORK, YET HERE IT IS FINELY
BRUSHED AND POLISHED AS IF IT WERE PRECIOUS METAL.
THE COMPLEX FORM OF THE CASE IS MILLED FROM A SOLID
BLOCK OF TITANIUM. THE INDIVIDUAL FACETS ARE THEN
MICRO SAND BLASTED TO ACHIEVE THE DISTINCTIVE MATT
GRAINING. AUDACIOUS STYLING, PEERLESS CRAFTSMANSHIP.
ROYAL OAKCONCEPT GMT
TOURBILLONIN TITANIUM,
WHITE CERAMIC BEZEL.
AUDEMARS PIGUET UK LTDTEL: + 44 207 409 0782WWW.AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM
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Lex
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0024 WATCHWORLD6
FOREWORD
More than 20 years ago I entered the parallel world
of the mechanical watch via a kind of inter-
dimensional portal in Antwerp, and underwent
a transformation. From the moment I entered
that Flemish jewellery store, I wanted to feel, understand, possess,
experience, talk about watches: I was never the same again. In
fact it is the friend who enticed me to board the train to Antwerp
who is responsible for the change in me. He knew why he was
going there: to score a mechanical watch in the sales. On the way
to Antwerp I read through a German watch annual, which my
friend already knew by heart, from Audemars Piguet to Zenith. His
passionate comments, page after page, became an emotion that
settled somewhere between head and heart. I was being prepped
for my initiation a little later that
same day.
On the way back I did little else but
stare at my left wrist, which was
now graced by a Baume & Mercier
Formula S. Is it pathetic to say that
this chronograph finally made me
feel complete? Probably, but it is
the truth. The watch told so many
stories: of the illustrious history of
the house of Baume & Mercier, of
attention for every single detail, of miniaturised technology of the
highest level, of adventurous motor sport the word Formula
was written large on the bezel. I sensed all those stories and the
fact that I could understand them gave me a feeling of self-
assurance. It gave me a sensation of sophisticated depth. Later
that evening I entered the dark dorm room of my then girlfriend
surrounded by an aura of superiority, of someone who had been
admitted to an elite club of aficionados.
So, did you get a new watch? Expensive?. She was already half
asleep in the pitch dark but still she noticed my radiant new aura
immediately, that much was clear. In my surprise I must have
mumbled something, put the watch on the bedside table and went
to sleep next to her. But I knew that when I woke up my world
would have changed for ever. The very next morning my daily,
unchanging ritual of looking at the watch by my bedside before
strapping it onto my wrist started...
Never thesame again
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WatchWorld0024
International editor-in-chiefLex Stolk
International editorial supervisorHarry H.R. Wijnschenk
Senior editor UKSimon Cudd
Contributing editorsEllen Dobbelaar
Kristian Haagen
Karel Hubert
Britta Rossander
BloggersSimon Cudd
Ellen Dobbelaar
Kristian Haagen
Karel Hubert
Lex Stolk
Translat ionsHarald European Translation Partners
www.harald.nl
Art direction and graphic designNextdoor Design, Almere (The Netherlands)
Michel Pleiter
Production managementSandy Hoogendijk
Digital mediaMarco Postma
MarketingSandy Hoogendijk
Public RelationsAnnet C. Hoveling
Founding editor & founding publisherKarel Hubert & Harry H.R. Wijnschenk
ISSN: 1567-6714
Editorial office0024 WatchWorld
Musicalstraat 34 | 1323 VP Almere (The Netherlands)
p+31 (0)36 546 01 55 | f+31 (0)36 546 01 50
e [email protected]|i www.0024watchworld.com
Digital subscription0024 WatchWorld is also available via
Zinio.com, Google Play Store and the App Store
International watch magazines0024 Horloges in the Netherlands and Belgium
0024 WatchWorld in Scandinavia
(Denmark, Norway, Sweden and Finland)
CoverAudemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 42mm
Read more about it on page 31.
IS A PUBLICATION OF MOTOMAX MEDIA B.V.
Musicalstraat 34 | 1323 VP Almere (The Netherlands)
p+31 (0)36 546 01 55 |f+31 (0)36 546 01 50
[email protected] | i www.motomax.nl
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Please visit www.0024watchworld.co.uk/uksub
for our online subscription page.Cover price per issue: 6,99
CancellationsCancellations in writing, no later than 6 weeks
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All rights reserved. No unauthorised reproduction permitted, without written permission of the publisher. Copyright 2014 MotoMax Media B.V.
10506-1301-1001
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la montre herms tames time, mastering its measurement.
one press on the pushbutton and the chronographs second hand starts moving,
the counter hands hot on its heels. beneath the dial ticks the steady beat of the manufacture
h1925mechanical movement, embodiment of the houses high standards.
precision and elegance meet and merge, reminding us that each second is truly unique.
dressage
herms. time reinvented.
Hermes.com
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ACCURATE TO ONE THOUSANDTH
OF A SECOND
It isnt the person who puts down the fastest time; the
person who is first to finish is the winner in short track
speed skating. The sport got a lot of attention during the
Olympic Winter Games in Sochi, because the ice skaters
flew across the short oval track at speeds of 55 km/h
and pulled out all the stops to overtake their opponents.
Slaloms, cutting the inside corner, going around the
outside, and often touching the ice with their hands in
the corners. It was up to Omega, the official timekeeper
during the Winter Olympics, to not only measure accu-
rately who was first to finish, but also clock the starting
times, for example during the ice skating. A huge job,
but Omega was well prepared. An amazing 230 tonnes
of materials were needed to make sure everything ran
smoothly: starting gates, the photoelectric cell, ankle
bands, miles of cable, scoreboards etc. Important,
because a difference of just 0.003 seconds decides
whether you win gold or silver, as Dutch ice skater
Koen Verweij found out. And for Slovenian Tina Maze
and Swiss Dominique Gisin the high-tech time recording
methods confirmed that for the first time in the history
of the Winter Games they had both won gold in alpine
skiing. Both finished in the exact same time of 1:42.57.
0024 WATCHWORLD 11
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SMALL SECONDS By Ellen Dobbelaar
The Internet is the perfect tool for measuring the mood
among watch lovers. We do this in conjunction with the
Dutch/German company Chronolytics, which analyses
the data of the worlds biggest online provider of (second-
hand) watches, www.chrono24.com. Looking back at
2013 we see that, as in 2012, Rolex remains the most
popular watch brand among Europeans and Americans.
And whether that is because of the 50th birthday of the
Daytona or because of the virtually unassailable, mythical
image of the brand We think it might be the latter.
www.rolex.com
1SEIKO on centre court
NOSTALGIALongines concluded the year 2013 in style with the Heritage
1973, an amazing chronograph which, with respect to its look
and feel, is based on its retro-elegant predecessor. A 40mm,
cushion-shaped steel case with a silvered or black dial,
nine unusually shaped hour indicators, a tachymeter scale,
chronograph functions and a date indicator. Apparently
Longines was feeling nostalgic last year, because the
companys rich watch history had already been a source of
inspiration for the Longines designers twice before: in the
case of the Heritage 1968, a chic and avant-garde design
thanks to its square case and Roman numerals, and the
Heritage Military 1938, a simple but tasteful design based
on a pilots watch from the 1930s that has been restyled into
three contemporary versions: with date indicator, 24-hour
indicator and chronograph function. www.longines.com
HeritageMilitary1938
Heritage 1968
Heritage 1973
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
0024 WATCHWORLD2
ROLEX:the undisputednumber
Those who watched the Australian Open carefully may have noticed something
about top tennis player Novak Djokovic: there is no longer an Audemars Piguet on his
wrist but a Seiko. For the next three years the Japanese watch brand will be Djokovics
new Watch Partner, as it is officially called. Seiko has selected a number of models
for Djokovic: a Sportura for training, a Premier Kinetic Perpetual for official occasions
and a Divers for when he isnt on the tennis court. Also: an Astron GPS Solar, the
perfect tool for a world traveller like Djokovic, which was personally presented to him
in Melbourne by Shinji Hattori, Seikos Watch Corporation President. What else the
next three years with Seiko will bring is not clear at this point, but during the quarter-
finals of the Australian open Djokovic had to concede his position: ironically enough
his Swiss opponent Stanislas Wawrinka, from Lausanne, who was the overall winner
at the final game, was too strong for him.www.seiko.co.uk
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THE C3H5N3O9 ZR012 explainedBe warned: the ZR012 is an explosive experiment. C3H5N3O9 is the molecular formula for nitro-glycerine, a highly flammable substance but also the
brand name of a unique watch laboratory that is managed by Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei (Urwerk), Maximilian Bsser and Serge Kriknoff
(MB&F) and Eric Giroud (independent watch designer). These geniuses wanted to experiment with technologies, materials and designs without any
obligations to a specific brand, and consequently formed a platform in which their combined characteristics created a true horological chain reaction.
In 2012 they introduced the ZR012, a limited edition of 12 zirconium watches based on a number of mathematical principles. The wankel motor, named
after its constructor Felix Wankel, which functions like a triangular rotor, the Reuleaux polygon, which serves as the hour and minute hand and the
epitrochoid, a mathematical planar curve used to shape the indicators. Twelve new copies of this scientific marvel are now available, this time finishedwith a black PVD zirconium case. This watch can be yours for around 130,000 Swiss francs and it is only available through a unique outlet in Singapore,
The Hour Glass, although online orders are also accepted. www.c3h5n3o9.com
The watch features a manual movement that can be operated via the
(large) screwed-in crown characteristic of MB&F.
The scale for the hours and minutes is found on the bottom half of twoellipses. This scale was created by 180 points, each of which forms part of
an epitrochoid, a mathematical planar curve. In other words: the pointsthat are indicated by the corners of the polygon as soon as the polygon
revolves around its axis.
The hands consist of Reuleaux polygons, triangles with rounded sides.In this example it is 8.28 AM.
The case (55 x 44mm) is made of zirconium, derived from the mineralzircon. It is comparable to titanium the material the lugs are made of
and it is extremely corrosion-resistant.
The sealed case-back reveals only the power reserve: 39 hours to be exact.
For many years the Olympic Games have been
dominated by timekeeper Omega. And in keeping
with such a grand event, Omega has issued a
limited edition of 100 watches as a tribute to the
host country Russia. The Sochi Petrograd between
1914 and 1924 the former capital of Russia was
called Petrograd is based on a historical piece
from Omegas museum collection. Omega opted
for the colours of the Russian flag (white, blue and
red) which have been incorporated in the dial of
the yellow gold, tonneau-shaped case. The case-
back is graced by the Sochi 2014 logo. But German
company Grieb & Benzinger is also seizing this
opportunity with both hands to keep its hordes
of faithful Russian fans happy. The brand does
this with the Saint George, the patron depicted on
Russias Coat of Arms. This patron saint has beenskeletonised and engraved on the case-back:
For the RUSSIA LOVERSonly seven copies of this watch will be made and all of them
are probably sold to Russian customers.
www.omegawatches.com, www.grieb-benzinger.com
0024 WATCHWORLD 13
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that pay tribute to the Chinese Year of the Horse.
WATCHESelevated
to works ofART
Sarah Illenberger is a renowned artist and illustrator from Berlin. German
brand Nomos has engaged her for a unique collaboration: thanks to Sarah
the Bauhaus-inspired watches have been transformed into totally diffe-
rent but everyday objects. With just a few simple things like stones, paper
and even autumn leaves or biscuits, the Club, Orion and Tangente become
wittyobjets dart, because Sarahs creations consists of a light-hearted mix
of photography, art and graphic design and with a few simple but care-
fully thought-out modifications an image is created that says much more
than a thousand words. www.nomos-glashuette.com
More examples of Sarahs creations using the Nomos watches may be found
on www.0024watchworld.com.
CARTIER
MUST-HAVES
Early this year Cartier not only introduced a number of impres-
sive watches more about those elsewhere in this magazine
but also a number of beautiful accessories, each of which was
totally Cartier. Like this watch and jewellery box, made of fig
wood and featuring a kaleidoscopic pattern. There are separate
compartments for rings, earrings, cufflinks, bracelets and
necklaces, and there is room for at least six watches.
www.cartier.com
WATCHES
Jaquet DrozPetite Heure Minute Relief
Horse
ChopardL.U.C XP Urushi
Would you like to own a special Year of the Horse watch for just 50?On www.0024watchworld.com international editor-in-chief Lex Stolk tells you which watch it is.
Ulysse NardinClassico Horse
4Arnold & SonHM Horses
0024 WATCHWORLD4
SMALL SECONDS
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TheAFFORDABLEautomatic watch
Restraint, elegant and affordable: that describes
this re-interpretation of Les Classiques Auto-matic in a nutshell. Sandro Reginelli, Product
Director at Maurice Lacroix, took the Les Clas-
siques and made changes to the bezel, among
other things, creating a slimmer version with a
beautifully finished dial and a domed, polished
surface. The dial has been given new hour indi-
cators, the date window has moved to 3 oclock
and the watch is now available in several
colours and with Roman or Arabic numerals.
A neat 38mm steel case surrounds the ML115
calibre with its 38-hour power reserve for the
hours, minutes, seconds and date. At approxi-
mately 825 this is a worthy watch that looks
good on any wrist.www.mauricelacroix.com
To celebrate the 225th birthday of Backes & Strauss,
the London-based and by Franck Muller Group owned
watch and jewellery brand, created a masterpiece with
225 natural diamonds (66 different colour hues), one to
mark every year since Backes & Strauss was founded. A
white gold watch, with sword-shaped hands, a quartz
movement, but with at least 10 different diamond cuts,
that cost 1,975 hours of master craftsmen work and
25 months to design and craft the watch. And as the
name suggests, its of course a ladys cocktail watch.
www.backesandstrauss.com
TB VictoryArnold & Son pays a tribute to Britains
National Museum of the Royal Navy, that is
comprised by five museums. One of those
museums is HMS Victory, one of Britains
most famous warships, which had her finest
hour as Lord Nelsons flagship at the Battle of
Trafalgar in 1805. The cream dial of the watch, thats fitted in a 44mm rose gold case,
unveils a beautiful solid gold miniature of the HMS Victory. A case-back see-through
shows you the National Museum logo executed in metallic palladium and the A&S
26103 calibre, an automatic movement thats entirely developed, designed and manu-factured at Arnold & Sons workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Only one piece will be
made and it will be presented to the National Museum of the Royal Navy.
www.arnoldandson.com
Spectacularnew venue forLONGINES'GTCLongines is the undisputable partner when it
comes to equestrian. The Saint-Imier based brand
is the Official Timing Partner of the Global Cham-
pions Tour, the worlds leading show jumping
series, that will take place in 14 different cities, likeAntwerp, Shanghai, Lausanne and London. This
year the GTC will take place from 14 till 16th of
August in London and the organisation announced
a spectacular new venue at historic Horse Guards
Parade this summer. The site has been used for
parades, pageants and ceremonies since the 17th
century and is world famous for the Trooping The
Colour on the Queens Birthday Parade. During
those days its possible to see the best riders com-
peting for the highest price money in the sport and
of course Longines will be there to measure all the
times and to hand over some beautiful watches
to the winners. To give you an example: last year
British Olympic team gold medallists Nick Skelton
and Ben Maher battled for the Grand Prix honours
in one of the most exciting jump-offs.
www.longines.com,
www.globalchampionstour.com
0024 WATCHWORLD 15
Piccadilly PrincessROYAL COLOURS EspeciallyFOR U(K)Both born in the 18th cen-
tury, both with an English
background: Backes & Strauss
and Arnold & Son. Both brands
announced that they will pro-
duce a limited edition watch that
pays tribute to its British heri-
tage, each with its own identity.
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ARTISTS IMPRESSION By Ellen Dobbelaar, picture Carbon Design Group
The domino effect
These simple dominoes hide an interesting story,
literally and figuratively. The Seattle-based desig-
ners of the Carbon Design Group have given the
three dominoes articulating dots that flip back
and forth between black and white to show the
time. Being wireless, the clock can be mounted
on the wall or positioned on the floor. The minds
behind the domino clock have taken a familiar,
iconic object out of its usual environment and
given it an entirely new function, so the domi-
noes get a totally different meaning. The num-
bers on the dominoes and dice are recognisable
to everyone, so it was immediately clear to us
that this object would be an ideal starting point
for a clock, Joe Sullivan, industrial designer,
explains. Most people own a set of dominoes,
but because they are not used to seeing them
that big, and mounted on the wall, it becomes a
pleasant surprise. Of course the dominoes have
to look like the real thing, but if you enlarge those
small ceramic blocks to a huge size they become
almost impossible to lift. Whats more, the white
and black dots flip back and forth soundlessly,
simultaneously and slowly, and the mechanism
also has to be energy-efficient for a long battery
life. A small, electromagnetic coil fitted behind
each dot is the solution. The magnet and the iron
revolve around the coil and because the mecha-
nism is attached to the dots the colour automa-
tically changes from white to black and back.
That way the hours and minutes pass slowly and
unnoticeably and you will experience time in a
more relaxed manner at least that is what the
designers hope.
www.carbondesign.com
0024 WATCHWORLD6
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WHATS GOING ON(LINE)
W E B S I T E
T W I T T E RI N S T A G R A M
F A C E B O O K
0024
0024
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RETROSPECTIVE By Ellen Dobbelaar, picture Blancpain
0024 WatchWorld looks back in time, when innovative watches
were born that would prove to have a major impact on the
development of the watch industry. We follow the trail of these
icons, by reminiscing with the use of old advertising campaigns. In
this third edition we would like to take you back to 1960, the year
in which the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms crosses the Atlantic Ocean
and the American Marines can dive fifty fathoms deep as well.
T
he story of the Fifty Fathoms starts
in 1953 and in two locations. In
France, where the lead roles are
played by Captain Robert Bob
Maloubier and Claude Riffaud, two French
Marines, and in the neighbouring Switzerland,
where Blancpain CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter is
an avid diver in his spare time. What the
Marines and the CEO have in common without
being aware of it is their quest for the perfect
divers watch. Maloubier and Riffaud have been
testing existing divers watches, but the results
prove to be disappointing: too small, unreada-
ble, and a lot of leaks. The two French Marines
approach the watch industry but are told that
their plans are unlikely to have a future. Only
Blancpain responds positively, as Fiechter has a
list of technical requirements: water resistance,
accuracy and readability are the spear points.In concrete terms this means that a revolving
BLANCPAINFifty Fathoms
Back in time1960
bezel, screwed-in case-back, a double, sealed
crown, white indicators against a black back-
ground, an automatic movement and a soft-iron
inner case are absolute essentials. It is Fiechter
who comes up with the name Fifty Fathoms,
after hearing Ariels Song from Shakespeares
The Tempest. Full fathoms five thy father lies;
Of his bones are coral made. He puts the Fifty
in front, because five fathoms doesnt really
have much to do with deep sea diving. Fifty
fathoms equal 91.45m, the maximum diving
depth in those days, when fathoms were used
to measure the depth of the water. A fathom
stands for 6 feet, or 1.829m: the width of the two
outstretched arms of a grown man. A length of
rope with a piece of lead attached is lowered
into the water to determine the depth, and the
section of rope that disappeared underwater is
measured between the outstretched arms, indi-
cating the number of fathoms. The collaboration
proves to be a huge success: the Navy embraces
the Fifty Fathoms, underwater photographers
take it down into the depths (thanks to Jacques-
Yves Cousteau) and other diving watch aficio-
nados are also impatiently treading water. The
watch pictured in the advertisement is the Fifty
Fathoms Mil-Spec Navy, a 41mm divers watchthat was developed especially for the US Navy.
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0024 MARKET SCAN By Lex Stolk
What is the most popular young brand?
Those who haveyouth on their side
Azimuth
Bedat & Co
Bell & Ross
Chronoswiss
Clerc
Concord
Cvstos
De Bethune
deLaCour
DeWitt
F.P. Journe
Franc Vila
Franck Muller
Frdrique Constant
Graham
Greubel Forsey
Harry Winston
Hautlence
HD3 Slyde
Hublot
Hysek
Ikepod
Linde Werdelin
Maurice de Mauriac
MB&F
Michel Jordi
Parmigiani Fleurier
Rama Swiss Watch
Rebellion
Richard Mille
Roger Dubuis
Romain Jerome
Sarpaneva
Urwerk
Valbray
Zeitwinkel
THE COMPLETE LIST WITH YOUNG BRANDS
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10TOP
twelve percent and the number three, Bell &
Ross (established in 1992) only gets a meagre
seven percent of all searches. It must be said of
the Master of Complications that, despite its
decreasing prominence among the bundled
marketing power of groups like LVMH, Riche-
mont and the Swatch Group, the ridiculously
creative Crazy Hours and of course the volup-
tuous tonneau shape of the Conquistador are
so recognisable that the watch aficionados
remain loyal to the brand.
For every brand in the top 3 it can be said that
a modern icon from the collection guarantees
the place of honour. Whereas Hublot has
an absolute winner with the Big Bang and
Franck Muller very appropriately gets the
silver medal for the Conquistador, Bell & Ross
largely owes the bronze medal to its square
BR 01 and to an intensive online campaign
that reached and inspired a lot of aficiona-
dos. Watches that have a strong identity can
withstand the vagaries of fashion, although it
must be said that with respect to its appea-
rance and image these days there are more
limited models in the collection than regular
models the Hublot Big Bang is a kind of
chameleon that sets the trend and continues
to change.
Winners and losersAlso remarkable is the fourth place of
Chronoswiss (1983) that very recently changed
owners, which may be an explanation for its
high ranking. Maybe collectors are now loo-
king for models from the period when founder
Gerd-Rdiger Lang was still in charge. Richard
Mille (2001) ranks highly, despite the high
prices paid for the RM, and jeweller Harry
Winston (we start counting Harry Winston as
a watch house when the brand introduced the
Opus series in 2000) is a remarkable presence
in 9th place. This position indicates that Opus
1 through 13 resonates strongly among aficio-
nados and collectors ; so strongly, in fact, that
watch master F.P. Journe is trumped (by two-tenth of a percent). We expected Parmigiani
(1996) and Romain Jerome (2004) to rank
higher than 13th and 14th place respectively,
S
omeone who starts with a blank
piece of paper has a lot more free-
dom than someone who simply
has to colour in an existing picture.
People who have the courage to draw their
own lines and refuse to be limited by others,
and who dont appreciate being told off for
colouring outside the lines. Look at men
like Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis and Michel
Parmigiani, and the even younger generation,
responsible for the creations of Urwerk and
MB&F. But what is the web-surfing watch
lover looking for? What is the most popular
watch brand after 1980? Thanks to Chrono-
lytics we can see which of the 36 young
brands selected by us are the most sought
after. Thanks to Chrono24.com a website
that permanently offers nearly 120,000
watches for sale and has at least 50 million
visitors looking for all types and brands of
watches we saw our suppositions confirmed
and got some remarkable surprises, as well.
Thanks to its high-tech data analysis Chrono-
lytics enables us to compile rankings for dif-
ferent watch markets. Over a 3-month period
2.5 million unique visitors are tracked to find
out which watches for sale on Chrono24.com
are viewed in the Dutch, Belgian and UK
markets and the four Scandinavian countries
Denmark, Norway, Sweden and Finland.
Among other things, Chronolytics bases its
analysis on the IP address and, at the request
of 0024 WatchWorld, the search this time
was for the most popular watches of brands
established after 1980, in the combined mar-
kets listed above.
Top 3The fact that Hublot (established in 1980)
made the top of the list doesnt come as any
kind of surprise. In a relatively short space of
time watch guru Biver was able to explode
the brand into a serious player in the luxury
sports segment. What is surprising is the fact
that of the 36 selected brands, Hublot takesan amazing 40 percent of the pie. Even more
so because Franck Muller (established in 1991
as Franck Mller) has to make do with just
The history of haute horlogerie often reads like a history book, but
the enormous growth in the watch market has also resulted in a
number of new watch houses of more recent vintage: pure post-
Quartz-Crisis brands that were born in the world of emotion and are
therefore unburdened by rigid and limiting traditions. What is the
most popular young watch house?
but we are happy to see couple Stas in a very
deserving fifth place with their independent
brand Frdrique Constant.
As you can see, the German brands are notmentioned on the list. You will find the ranking
of these brands in the upcoming issue of
0024 WatchWorld.
1. HUBLOT40%
2. FRANCKMULLER12%
3. BELL&ROSS
7%
4. CHRONOSWISS 6%
5. FRDRIQUECONSTANT 5%
6. RICHARDMILLE4.4%
7. GRAHAM4.2%
8. ROGERDUBUIS2.9%
9. HARRYWINSTON1.5%
10. F.P.JOURNE1.3%
0024 WATCHWORLD 23
Franck Muller
Crazy Hours
Bell & Ross BR 01 Heading Indicator
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FIND OUT MORE AT
WWW.AWC.CH AND ORDER
YOUR FAVORITE WATCH
DIRECTLY FROM THE
MANUFACTURER! PRODUCT OF ALEXANDER PHILLIP WATCH COMPANY SWITZERLAND
T H E W A T C H N O
J E W E L E R C A N S E L L
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AAAA
0024 WATCHWORLD 25
The cardsare on the table
A
SIHH 2014
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1815 Tourbillon
This 39.5mm 1815 Tourbillon is a true beauty,
but that was not the first priority of the German
watchmakers. The sizeable 13.2mm tourbillon
that dominates the view in a grand manner does
not revolve for aesthetic reasons but with the
objective of realising the most accurate possible
movement. Function over form, therefore. This is
also evident from the presence of both the Stop-
Seconds and Zero-Reset mechanisms. When the
crown is pulled out it activates a spring that stops
the balance and propels the seconds hand back to
zero so the time can be adjusted easily
and accurately down to the last second.
This is made possible by its calibre
L102.1. Available in rose gold as well as
a limited edition of 100 platinum pieces.
8
8
8
8
9
8
8
GrandLange1MoonPhase
Everything about the Grand Lange1
Moon Phase isbig; the 41mm case, the
date and especially the moon phase
indicator.Thislatest scionintheiconicLange1
family (the revival and steady advance of the
brandfromtheisolatedhinterlandofSaxony)
not only stands out for the size of the moon,
but especially for the excellent readability
andtheminuteattentiontodetail.Thegolden
moonglowsgentlyand382(!)starsindifferent
sizes have been etched into a midnightblue
universe with laser accuracy. Only once every
122yearsisthereaminor discrepancycompared
totherealmooninthesky.Thepositionofthe
moonphaseonthedial,showingtheminutes
andhours, differsfromthetraditionalplaceon
thesmallsecondsdial,andthat givesthewatch
anevenmoreindividualisticlookthanit
hadbefore.Thesublimemanuallywound
calibreL095.3, whichisbuiltinGlashtte,
drivesthetime,dateandmoon.
9
9
Lange1Tourbillon
PerpetualCalendarNothingmore thananew colour, but toobeautiful not to show you: the rose goldversion of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpe-
tualCalendar.Introducedtwoyearsagoasalimi-ted edition of 100 and now also on themarketinanunlimited41.9mmrosegoldcase.As farasthe technology goes (invisible tourbillon,ultra-fastjumping perpetual calendarmechanism),nothinghaschanged.ThewatchmastersinthehillsofSaxony didnt think any chan-ges were needed and theywereabsolutelyright.
9
LangesmanufacturecalibreL082.1
LangesmanufacturecalibreL102.1
A. Lange&ShnealsounveiledanewSaxonia.On
www.0024watchworld.comyoucanreadeverything
about thisstylishwatchforwomen.
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29/8400/24 HORLOGES 9700/24 WATCHWORLD 97
OFFICIAL WATCHBANK PARTNERS
Ace Jewelers Juwelier Kamerbeek
Nymans Ur 1851 Van Hell Juweliers
Amsterdam Vintage Watches Reuyl Juweliers
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Ten Berge Juwelier Alexander Juwelier Atelier
Juwelier Kormelink Dik Juwelier Triade Juweliers
Juwelier Piet Schilder Juwelier Zwinkels
C. van de Kerkhof Juweliers Horlogerie van Manen
CS Bedford Almar Watches
Interested to become a WatchBank partner?
Contact us at [email protected]
buy the best pre-owned watches
on www.watchbank.eu
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8
8
SIHH 2014
AudemarsPiguet
7
7
7
7
Threeofakind
8
8
RoyalOakOffshore
Chronograph
The 44mm Offshore stays, but with th
e
significantly updated 42mm variant
it
nowhas a small bigbrotherthattakesup
a prominent position. Unchanged is the
familiarMegaTapisseriepatternonthedial
,
newisthecircularpatternonthesubsidiary
dials, the more sophisticated hands, th
e
date disc that matches the dial colou
r
and the more subtly
embossed
numerals.Twovariants ingoldand
fourversions in steel announcethe
42mmmessageloudandclear. And
themessagewillbereceived.
8
Royal OakOffshoreChronographVampireNicknames are part of theOffshore. Now there is even a
special nickname for the basic blackversion. Thanks to the red details on thedial and the blood-red stitching on thehornback alligator strap this versionwas nicknamed Vampire. This sinisterchronographhousestheAPcalibre3126.Sostillnointegratedchro
nographmovementfrom the companys own manufacture,butabasicproprietarymovementwithaDuboisDprazmodule.
7
7
RoyalOakOffshore
ChronographSafari
The first Safari dates back to2007
and, togetherwiththeblue Navy,was
presented as a more contemporary and
daringvariation onthe Offshoretheme.
ThecompletelyupdatedOffshore isonce
again available intwoversions. Likethe
original, the Safari has a characteristic
hornback leather strap and with its
sand-coloureddialandbrowndetailstheoverall model is extremelytasteful
and
restrained.
J
J
10
10
RoyalOakConcept
GMTTourbillon
This 2014 edition of the Royal
Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon
combinesa44mmtitaniumcase
withabezel, crownandpush-butto
nof
whiteceramicandanintegratedru
bber
strapin(still)immaculatewhite.Pict
ures
dontdojusticetothisdaringtrump
card
intheRoyal Oakfamily.Onpaperthe
whitelookstoohardandcold.Thea
ctual
watchhasaninvitingsoftsheenan
dthe
intricatelymachined andvery dif
ficult
tomakeceramicupperbridgestradd
ling
the calibre 2930 is an intriguing
eye
catcher. Becauseof the shape, co
lour
andmaterial ofthisbridgethe
eyeisautomaticallydrawntothe
tourbillon andthe secondtime
zoneindicator.
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SAVE30!
0024 WATCHWORLD 35
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Aquatimer ChronographEdition 50 Years Science
for GalapagosDefinitely a limited edition is the
version clad entirely in intensely black rub-
ber with striking blue details. The 44mm
Chronograph Edition 50 Years Science for
Galapagos is limited to 500 pieces and, like
the Charles Darwin, uses the manufacture
calibre 89365 with a 68-hour power reserve.
Of all the models the external/internal diving
ring with SafeDive system (turn the bezel to
the left and the internal dive time indicator
revolves simultaneously, turn to the right
and the indicator remains safely
in place) on this watch feels the
most pleasant of all nine Aqua-timers, because this version comes
in beautifully tactile rubber.4
4
7 9
7
3
AquatimerPerpetual
CalendarDigital
Date-Month
For dedicatedIWCfanswhoare
notafraidofapieceofhautehorlogerie
the fully redesigned Aquatime
r
collection,consistingofninewatchesin
total,offersa49mmperpetualcalendar
withdigitaldateandmonthindicators.
Thistitaniumwatch,finished in ro
se
goldandclad in rubber, isthebigges
t
IWC wristwatch since the illustriou
s
B-UhrorBigPilotfrom1940.Wekno
w
the automatic calendar movemen
t
usedforthiswatchfromotherproduc
t
families.This perpetual diver
comes in a limited edition of
50pieces.
AquatimerChronographEditionExpeditionCharlesDarwinAs if the striking manufacture
chronograph movement with the
intuitive monocounter wasnt
enough, this 44mm divers chrono-
graph also has a high-quality
bronze alloy case. This material
is alivewithout staining and it is
also a direct nautical referenceto
Darwins shiptheHMSBeagle.FYI:
this first IWCwatch inbronze isnotalimitededition.
AquatimerDeepThreeAfter the iconic Deep
One and the not-quite-as-
successful Deep Two thereis
now,entirelyinlinewithexpec-
tations, a DeepThree. Andthis
onedefinitelyhitsthemark.The
46mm watch is made of tita-
nium, sports the immaculately
functioning SafeDive mecha-
nism and features an appea-
ling mechanical depth gauge.
In its designthewatch is also
reminiscent of the legendary
Ocean2000.
3
3
SIHH 2014
IWC
8
8
2
3
3
4
4
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K
K
AquatimerAutomatic2000
The name Big Diver would be appro-
priateforthiswatchwhich, interms of
appeal,rivalsIWCsBigPilot.Itisafunctio-
nalmasterpiecewithcarefullyconsidered
aesthetics.Water resistantto 2,000m, a
46mmtitaniumcase,a robust 80110 cali-
brefromthecompanysownmanufacture
inSchaffhausenandtwodifferentSuper-
Luminovacoloursonthedialsforoptimal
readabilitywithoutdangerouserrors.Also
strikingaretheblack crownpro-tectorandthebeautifuld
ial.
TWO SYSTEMS
IN ONE
K
K
Accordingtothehead
ofthedesigndepartment,
ChristianKnoop,IWCis
muchmorethanjustawatch
brand.Surprising.He
explainswhyandofcourse
wealsotalkaboutthe
redesignedAquatimers.
W
hile the main courses
are being served in the
restaurant, ChristianKnoop talks about his five years at
IWC. The new Aquatimers are the
dessert. A headhunter approached
me about his job, but didnt tell me what
company it was. They were looking for a
creative person for a watch brand that had a
360-degree view of the brand as a whole and
was not just knowledgeable about watches.
When the mystery brand turned out to be IWC
I was extremely pleased. The broad approach I
would be able to adopt particularly appealed to
me. As a child I was always drawing, but I cant
remember ever sketching a watch... Needless
to say, my interest in watches has developed
enormously these past few years
and working with a team of 15 highly
talented designers has taught me a
lot. From the watch to the brochure
to the interior of the boutique, I enjoy
designing the entire package. Dont
get me wrong, I love designing a watch, but I
dont consider myself a watch designer.
Memories of 1967
And so we noiselessly and smoothly transition
to the underwater world of the Aquatimer:
I consider the 1982 Porsche Design Ocean 2000
an iconic watch. This first titanium watch ever
made by IWC was designed by Ferdinand A.
Porsche, a man who designed many different
objects, a legend. The 2014 Aquatimers may
not look much like the illustrious
8
9
Ocean 2000, but I definitely wasinspired by the pure design andperfect aesthetics. Still, the bezelinparticularisreminiscentofthefirst Aquatimer from 1967. Thiswatchhad thediving ringon theedge of the dial instead of the traditionalringontopof thecase.ThenewAquatimeractually has a dual system: by turningthe outer bezel the diving ring inside thewatch revolves. IWC called thismechanismthe SafeDive system and combines theadvantagesofbothsystems. Aribbedbezeliseasiertooperatewhenwearingdivingglovesthananextracrown,andascaleonthedialcanbe readmore accurately than numbersonan external bezel. A linkingmechanisminstalledontheoutsideofthecaseat9oclockconnectsthetworings.Thesystem works extremely smoothlyand accurately and because it
isopen,watercanautomaticallyrinsethemechanismclean.
9
9
5
5
6
6
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5
5
9
reservethankstotwospringbarrels.The 43.5mm white gold QuantimePerptuel Equation is 16mmhigh andin this modest space the movement,consistingof570decoratedcomponents,does itsperpetualjob.Thestartingpointwas the development of an easy-to-operate calendar movement that couldbemoved forward aswell as backward.Clear readability was also high on thelistofprioritiesforbothmen,plusanewway to show the equation of time, thedifference between the local mean time and thesolartime.GreubelFo
rseyoptedforasystemusingtwotransparentdiscs,whichshowswhenthesolartimeandthetimeweuseonadailybasisoverlap.The result of years of thinking, building, testingand startingall over again is a completelynew and fully integratedmechanism thatrequires a lot of knowledgeofmovementstofullyunderstandit.
9
SIHH 2014
8
Quantime Perptuel Equation GF 07Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have a
revolving obsession called a tourbillon and they
have shared their obsession with the public on
several occasions in many different but always
dazzling manifestations. And now they have
set their sights on the perpetual calendar
which comes with an ultra-accurate tourbillon,
obviously. The patented 24-second tourbillon,
positioned at a 25-degree angle, serves as the
regulating body for a movement
that ticks at 21,600 vibrations per
hour and has a 72-hour power
GreubelForsey
AutomotiveFlying
Tourbillon
AmericanfashionkingRalph
Laurenis a
passionate collector of classic
cars and a
serious connoisseur ofhaute
horlogerie.
Thefleetofthemostsuccessfulp
olosalesmaninthe
worldisimpressive,andthesa
mecanbesaidofhis
watchcollection.Whatisimpossible
withclassical
cars canbe donewhenit co
mestomechanical
watches:sellinghautehorlog
erieunderyourown
name andthenputtingtho
se creationsunder
theumbrellaoftheRichemon
tGroupsoyouhave
accesstomovementslikethos
eofJaeger-LeCoultre,
forexample.Surprisinglyenou
ghthecalibreRL167
thatisusedinthe Automoti
veFlyingTourbillon
is built by La Fabrique du T
emps, a movement
companythatisnowpartofth
ecompetingLVMH
conglomerate.Abeautiful au
tomaticmovement,
incidentally,featuringadelica
temicro-rotor.
The watch combines the p
assions of Ralph
Lauren in every detail. The
complicated
tourbillonmovement satisfi
esthewatch
connoisseur in him andthe appearance
ofthewatchreflectshisdeep
loveforthe
classical automobile. This is because the
black steel Automotive Flying Tourbillon
with a sizeable diameter of 45mm is
modelled after one of the most famous
cars in history, a jet-black 1938 Bugatti
57SC Atlantic Coup that occupies a prominent
spot in Ralph Laurens coach house. The elm
burlwood around the edge of the dial is alsoused in the dashboard of this voluptuously
shaped top classic, of which four were only ever
built, and both the Arabic numerals and the
plain hands of the watch are modelled after
the Jaeger instruments in the Bugattis cockpit.
For $80,000 a pittance compared to the cars
estimated value of $40 million you can buy
this interpretation of Ralph Laurens passion,
which will look particularly good when you are
driving a restored cabriolet through a sleepy
Provenal town with your arm resting casually
on the drivers door. Please make sure to wear
a polo shirt featuring the logo of a polo
player rather than a crocodile... Ralphwill appreciate that.
Lauren6
6
Ralph
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Collection Villeret 1885Exo-Tourbillon RattrapanteThe word exo means on the outside and
this applies to two aspects of this complicated
pinnacle of the new SIHH 2014 collection. Firstly,
the sizeable tourbillon mechanism is positioned
next to and therefore outside the movement
and secondly the balance doesnt oscillate inside
but outside the tourbillon cage. Furthermore, the
tourbillon cage is smaller than the balance, which
is positioned above the tourbillon. This mechanism
was constructed to save energy and the
effort has been successful. Because the
balance doesnt have to support the weight
of the tourbillon cage the ExoTourbillon
needs 30% less energy than comparable
traditional movements with tourbillon.
The construction method with the two different-
sized movement components provides an optical
treat, as the revolving tourbillon is beautifully
visible in the heart of the oscillating balance.
The white gold 47mm watch provides even more
visual spectacle. The ExoTourbillon Rattrapante
is a regulator watch with a large central minute
hand, a minute indicator at 9 oclock and two hour
hands (the blued hand for the local time and the
grey hand for the second time zone) and a day/
night indicator at 4 oclock. The cherry on the top is
formed by the two central seconds handsfor the rattrapante function that move,
stop, jump and reunite like an haute
horlogerie ballet. Only 18 copies will be
made of this watch.76
SIHH 2014
Meisterstck HeritagePerpetual CalendarWith the Meisterstck Montblanc not only
aims to show its heritage in the form of a clas-
sic watch collection, the Watch House which
originates from Hamburg also wants to demon-
strate and expand its Swiss watch side and access a
large target group. By opting for a series of recognisa-
ble watches that comfortably meet all the criteria of
a classic wristwatch and, at the same time, keeping
the prices in the entry-level category, Montblanc is
playing a trump card. An achievable high point in
the Meisterstck Heritage collection is undoubte-
dly this model with perpetual calendar. In steel this
watch costs 10,000 euro and a price of 16,500 euro
has been set for the rose gold version. Serious money,
obviously, but in the world of the perpetual calendar
this is extremely competitive, maybe even aggressive
pricing. For this serious amount you will get a dial
with a harmonious layout. This is what a perpetual
calendar looks like: no frills, no surprises,
Mont
blanc5
3
3
8
8
8
MeisterstckHeritageMoonphaseYou cant get more classic than with
a moon phase watch. It is a highly
traditional complication that has been
perfected many times and yet never
tsboring. The moon may no longer play a
ominent roleinmodernlife,buttheaesthetic
ualities of the moon are indisputable. The
oon phase indicator of the Meisterstck
eritage Moonphase has been integrated in
hesubsidiarydatedialat6oclock. Themoondisplayedinabeautifullytraditional manner
ndsoitshouldbe inawatchthatnotonlyhas
classic name but, at 39mm, also has avery
onservativecasesize. Thebezelisnarrowand
olished, sothe39mmlooksanythingbutsmall.
he automatic calibre MB 29.14 is revealed
hroughthesapphirecrystal case-backandthe
otor and golden balance are particularly eye-
atching. The alligator strap completes
hisMeisterstck.Inthesummerof2014
ouwill be able to choose between a
ery subtle and accessible steel version
rawarmlyglowingvariant inrosegold.3
andthatwas exactlytheintentio
n.
Thisisanarchetypalcalendarwatc
h
andthatisalsoclearfromthemodest39mm
caseinwhichtheautomaticcalibre
MB29.15
powersthetimeandcalendarfunc
tionsfor
alleternity.Masterfulhautehorlog
erieforthemas-
ses.Orsomeofthemasses,anyway.
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7
3
SIHH 2014Malte Tourbillon
Those who would like a tonneau-shaped, platinum
Malte and also appreciate an accurately
spinning tourbillon but dont feel the need for
a transparent mechanism on their wrist can
always opt for the Malte Tourbillon that was
added to the Collection Excellence Platine this
year. Both the case and the dial are made of
intensely shiny, heavy platinum. Platinum
is also used in the silk thread used to stitch
the alligator strap. The 38 x 48.24mm casehouses the custom-shaped calibre 2795
that was designed and built in Vacheron
Constantins own manufacture. It has a
frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour and
a power reserve of 45 hours. All 50 copies to
be made of this Malte Tourbillon
will have the Geneva quality seal.
Mtiers dArt McaniquesAjouresSkeletonising is a painfully precise job that
requires tremendous handcrafting skills.
It is sometimes considered a complication, but in
real terms skeletonising has no functional qualities,
just aesthetic ones, and is therefore not recognised
as such. However, that doesnt make a meticulously
skeletonised movement any less impressive. Vacheron
Constantin has a rich tradition of skeletonised
watches in which the four new Mtiers dArt
Mcaniques Ajoures watches three versions with aring on the outside of the dial in black, blue and grey
Grand Feu enamel and one variant with black enamel
and a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds have a
prominent position. The calibre 4400 SQ is an open-
worked variant of the hand-wound calibre 4400, and
the way in which the excess material is removed is
inspired by the arches found in architecture. Picture
19th-century train stations with their arched
steel constructions, or the arches in a Gothic
cathedral.
MalteTourbillon
Openworked
Delicate and prestigious, the Malte
Tourbillon Openworked has an almost
diaphanous skeletonised calibre 2790
SQthat needs no architectural inspiratio
n.This
movement is a more traditional but n
o less
artistically designed tour de force, whic
h is
essentially the custom-shaped calibre 27
90
thatticksat18,000steadyvibrationsperho
ur.
Althoughalotofmaterialhasbeenremov
ed,
somethingshavebeen added, aswell:tw
o
functions, namely apower reserve indica
tor
andadate indicator. Thisnot only increases
thenumberofcomponentsbutalsotheheig
ht.
Notthataheightof6.1mmisparticularlyt
hick,
but we thought wed mention it. The M
alte
TourbillonOpenworked, which is only ava
ilable
inplatinum,measures38x48.24x12.73mm
.
3
8
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8
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7
Vacheron
Constantin
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SIHH 2014 By Lex Stolk
Complicated,
fashionable trumpcards
SIHH flashback
The deck has been shuffled and split and the
cards are face-up on the table. As always,
Richard Mille was bluffing and mocking with
G-forces, with a complete poker face A. Lange
& Shne presents yet another astonishing
German complication and this year Panerai
hid two trump cards in its vest pocket.
However, once analysed, the trend of the
most-visited SIHH ever is more substantial,
subtle and level than the previous edition.
F
ashionable horloge-
rieand small, thin
complications, two
trends that stand
out at the Salon International
de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).
We start with relatively little
complexity but a high level of
style. Audemars Piguets Royal
Oak Offshore Chronograph in a
steel 42mm case is available in
a number of versions. The Navy
in blue with orange and the
sand-coloured Safari with brown details look
fresh and modern, but it is definitely the version
with a subtle slate-grey dial and perfectly mat-
ching alligator strap with sharp crease in the
middle (referred to as hornback) that stands
out as the most trendy and ultra-modern. Its
look is perfect and subtly sophisticated and
just one more year we will overlook the fact
that the watch does not have an integrated
proprietary chronograph movement. As a side
note, to the somewhat sarcastic comment that
the lack of a manufacture movement is not
(yet) a problem for the companys clientele and
Audemars Piguet therefore doesnt have to rush
to create a new proprietary calibre, head desig-
ner Octavio Garcia responded with an equally
sarcastic Yeah, thats exactly why. Or was he
serious? Either way, this year the vulnerable
rubber has been replaced by ceramic and the
overall package of details has been given a
much more subtle and top-quality style with
the intriguing grey, glowing variant as the
luxury trendsetter.
When Roger Dubuis focuses on the past and
exercises restraint the brand comes up with an
unexpectedly strong contender. Forget double
flying tourbillons and behold the 42mm white
gold Hommage Automatic. This basic model
combines an almost disco-worthy exterior that
shimmers like the interior of a trendy club with
Poinon de Genve quality. The Hommage
Automatic is basic as only a Roger Dubuis watch
can be basic. This effect is achieved with thecombination of a dial with manually applied
guilloch that throws back the light and the
automatic calibre RD620 manufacture move-
7
7
Rog
er
Du
bu
isH
ommage
Auto
mati
c
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7
ment with micro-rotor. The signature of master
watchmaker Roger Dubuis, which is engraved
in the sapphire crystal case-back, is a subtle and
dignified tribute.
Extremes with substance
Complexity in increasingly smaller spaces
is the motto. At Jaeger-LeCoultre the
complicated movements increasingly show
up in shrinking watch cases and the rose
gold 41mm Vacheron Constantin Patrimony
Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731
is equally modest in its dimensions. This
model was actually presented just before the
SIHH, but the Geneva watch salon was the
7
7
DEVILISHDILEMMAIWCAQUATIMERAUTOMATIC VS. CARTIERCALIBREDECARTIERDIVER
first opportunity to experience the model
physically and acoustically. Named for the
year founder Jean-Marc Vacheron was born,
the calibre 1731 movement with minute
repetition has a height of just 3.9mm and
the watch as a whole is a mere 8.09mm high;
the thinnest watch of its kind currently in
production. Incidentally, the movement is not
just thin, it is also ingenious with the use of
a completely silent striking mechanism. The
fact that the watch is the epitome of carefully
balanced style with small seconds between
7 and 9 oclock makes it even more desirable.
Equally small, subtle and restrained, but
many times more accessible, is the Montblanc
Meisterstck Heritage Perpetual Calendar,
with a highly traditional steel 39mm case.
Within the restrictions of a classical calendar
watch this creation is a resounding surprise.
For approximately 8,000 you will get a
perpetual calendar that is accurate until 2100,
in a classic design that was realised under the
supervision of former Jaeger-LeCoultre top
man Jrme Lambert pedigree always shows.
With the Meisterstck collection as a whole,
but particularly with this model, the new CEO
of Montblanc is showing us the direction he
plans to take and that gives the critical watch
aficionado courage and confidence. What a
strong trump card.
Whichof thesetwowatches doyouprefer?Tell us onwww.0024watchworld.com,whereyouwill alsocanfindthetop5favouriteSIHHwatches from0024editors LexStolkandKristianHaagen.
IWC
42mm steelwater resistantto300m automaticmovementbasedonthe ETA2892-Awitha42-hour powerreserve external/internal divingring withSafeDive
system price: 4,990
CARTIER42mm steel waterresistantto300m automaticmanufacture
movement1904MCwith48-hourpower reservedivingringfea-turesADLCcoatingforsmoothoperation ISO6425-certieddiverswatch price:5,700
7
7M
ontbla
nc
Me
iste
rst
ckH
erit
age
Perpetua
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ale
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ar
Au
demarsPiguetRoyalOakOffsho
re
Chronograph42mm
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony
Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731
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SIHH 2014 By Lex Stolk, pictures Van Cleef & Arpels
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PLANETARY
POETRYover
Paris andNijehaske
Let me start by confessing something.
I am not a patriot. I dont feel proud
of my homeland Holland to me
it is simply a random geographical
location on our planet in an endless universe
where I was plonked down unasked and
yet, I have recently started to understand a
little of how it feels to burst with pride when
the Netherlands is in the game. Strangely
enough this revelation did not come to me
while watching football or some other sport,
but in a temporary presentation room during
the Geneva SIHH watch salon, when the name
Christiaan van der Klaauw was mentioned
during the unveiling of the Midnight
Plantarium Poetic Complication by Van Cleef
& Arpels. The astronomical masterpiece was
realised in collaboration with the Watch House
from Friesland, a region in the Northern part of
the Netherlands, and that announcement made
me nudge the people to the right and left of me
and nod at them with a self-satisfied expression.
There you go, thats the Netherlands for you, is
the message.
Obviously there isnt really anything for me
to be proud of. However, Danil Reintjes,
co-owner of the Watch House that specialises
in celestial bodies definitely has reason to feel
proud. Together with the team of specialists in
the workshop in the Dutch village Nijehaske
he made sure that the poetic dream of VanCleef & Arpels could become reality. It is an
honour that the famous Parisian jeweller, who
has been based in the famous Place Vendme
Planets like precious stones in a miniature universe. The jewelexperts at Van Cleef & Arpels are responsible for designing the
44mm firmament and the specialists in the area of astronomi-
cal complications at Christiaan van der Klaauw Astronomical
Watches ensure that everything rotates around each other.
Parisian flair and precision from the Dutch village Nijehaske
combine to make astronomically correct watch poetry.
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since 1906 and whose creations are worn by
Royals, jetsetters and idols like Grace Kelly and
Elizabeth Taylor, contacted a watchmaker in a
Dutch province.
But at the same time, its only logical: Christiaan
van der Klaauws Planetarium watch from the
late 1990s has earned a very prominent place
in the history of the astronomical watch. The
watch is among the high points of the haute
horlogerie and obviously the people in Paris
came to the same conclusion. For the realisation
of a much-talked-about and visually astounding
complication they had to get in touch with
Friesland.
That initial contact was made around
three years ago, Reintjes tells us after the
presentation which is accompanied by
thrumming animated films when we are
walking to the glass case where the real watch
sparkles in a bright spotlight. I was invited to
come to Paris to talk about the idea. Once we
agreed on the basics it became a long process
of back and forth suggestions, he explains
while he opens a notebook. Look, these are
the first sketches and suggestions for the case.
Obviously it had to be a Van Cleef watch and
not a Van der Klaauw, so in my capacity asdesigner I had to work in a different way. Now
I tend to be stubborn, so we had our moments
along the way.
Celestial body on the wristThe French/Dutch collaboration ultimately
resulted in the Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight
Plantarium Poetic Complication, a 44mm
rose gold watch that is surprisingly thin for
such a complicated creation, but more about
that later. First lets take a look at the dial.
This is dominated by seven discs made of
aventurine (a quartz crystal with encapsulated
sparkling mineral particles) with in between,
on miniscule stems, the different planets in our
solar system that revolve at the true speed of
their orbit around the central sun. For the sake
of clarity and from slow to fast: Saturn (sugilite)
makes one full revolution of the dial in 29 years,
Jupiter (blue agate) does it in just under 12 years,
Mars (red jasper) in 687 days, Earth (turquoise)
in the familiar 365 days, Venus (rubellite) a little
faster in 224 days and Mercury (serpentine)
much faster in 88 days. The mechanism,
which is added as a module to the basic RD821
movement by Roger Dubuis, is a creation of the
specialists at Van der Klaauw and consists of an
impressive 396 components.
The astronomical module in combination
with the basic automatic movement caused
quite a few headaches, says Reintjes: We have
a Planetarium watch in our own collection
and although we were able to draw on our
knowledge of that watch, this is quite a
different, much smaller planetarium. So really
we started from scratch. Because the hour
display was positioned on the outside we had
to start working from the inside with the sun
as the centre, and that requires quite a different
construction than our own planetarium.
Furthermore, we encountered the problem of
the rotor when we decided to put the calendar
indicators on the back.
The influence of Van Cleef & Arpels can be seen
in a number of different aesthetic aspects. The
Watch House has considerable expertise when
it comes to precious stones, and that manifests
itself in the different types of gemstones used
for the planets. Each planet is made from a
characteristic stone not perfectly round like
the planets themselves and they circle around
a rose gold sun.However accurately everything revolves, it
is impossible to tell the time intuitively
and anyway, that wouldnt be poetic at all.
Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight
Plantarium Poetic Complication
SIHH 2014
We didnt start with a mechanical
concept, but with an idea
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Consequently there are no traditional hands
and those who want to tell the time must
search the firmament for a shooting star thatrevolves around the scale on the outside of the
dial in a 24-hour period. Incidentally, the watch
also shows the day, date and year, and these can
be set via the push-buttons on the side of the
case. To read these functions the watch must be
turned upside down: the transparent case-back
reveals these earthly functionalities.
Shooting starsThe frivolous, unique and poetic highpoint of
the watch is the star engraved in the crystal.
By revolving the beautifully notched bezel and
indicating a special day with the use of a red
triangle a birthday, Mothers Day, Valentines
Day, a wedding day, you name it the user will
see that when that special day has arrived the
blue earth is positioned exactly underneath
the star. Astronomical precision and a touch
of eccentric poetry is obviously limited and
doesnt come cheap. The final price of the
Midnight Plantarium Poetic Complicationwill be somewhere around 185,800. But apart
from a unique, creative piece, this watch is
also a technical masterpiece. Just look at the
relatively thin case. This is the hobbyhorse of
Denis Giguet, Technical Director of the horology
department at Van Cleef & Arpels.
It was a fight for millimetres, no, tenths of
millimetres, Giguet tells us with a proud
smile. Everything had to be kept as thin as
possible. The module on the basic movement,
but especially also the planets that had to move
between the discs of the dial components, had
to be kept as low as possible. I dont know how
many times I sent people back to their desk
disappointed with the instruction to go lower.
Im afraid for a while I wasnt very popular.
An astronomical module deals with strong
forces and when the cogwheels become too
thin the functioning of the watch may be
jeopardised, so it was quite a tall order to
stay within the set limits of 13.4mm, but we
managed to do it without compromising on the
very highest quality. This insistence on a certain
maximum height has mostly to do with our
philosophy, because at Van Cleef we dont start
with a mechanical concept but with an idea,
a story we want to tell. This idea then comes
to life for our CEO Nicolas Bos, the marketing
department in Paris, our designers in Geneva
and, in the case of our astronomical tour de
force, the people at Van der Klaauw as well. Only
once the idea is sufficiently crystallised and it
looks as if from a technical point of view the
watch is possible do we make the first sketches.
Some of those early sketches in Danil Reintjes
notebook feature the shooting star that is also
present in the final watch, although not quite
the same. I really wanted to do something
exciting with that shooting star, Reintjes
explains. Instead of letting that star revolve in
a 24-hour period I thought it would be a nice
idea to let the star shoot to the right time by
means of a special system. By pushing a button
you would change the static star into a shooting
star. But that would have taken far too much
space and unfortunately that is something we
didnt have. I also had to give up my idea of
excentric orbits for the planets.
It may be a pity that Reintjes idea died a quiet
death, but in the name of the all-important
aesthetics even the brand name Van Cleef
& Arpels didnt manage to make it into the
foreground. Of course we could have put
the name somewhere on the dial or in the
crystal, but that wouldnt have done justice to
the watch so we didnt, Giguet explains this
integrity. Nothing is allowed to compromisethe aesthetics of our watches, not even our own
logo. This is the kind of French hard-headedness
they understand in Friesland.
I wanted to use a shooting star,but that took too much space
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Time
Every day the watch confronts us
with the passing of the hours and
minutes: the hands spin round
and round and the time is elusive.
For some the traditional, round
watch cases are an ironic symbol
of the treadmill on which we find
ourselves, but for watch aficiona-
dos the circle represents eternity
and perfection. The perfect sym-metry, the countless ways to lay
out the dial, the division into
hours and minutes... And, every
day again: a new round, new
opportunities, as soon as the hour
hand and the seconds hand join
each other at 12 oclock.
PHOTOSHOOT
By: Britta Rossander, pictures: Eric SattenSet designer: Niklas Hansen/Link Details
Special thanks to: Nymans Ur 1851, Krons Ur and Bo Berggren Urhandel
0024 WATCHWORLD58
goesround
roundand
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HERMS DRESSAGE QUANTIME SIMPLEMaterial: steelSize: 40.5 x 38.4mmMovement: automatic, calibre Vaucher H1837Power reserve:
50 hoursFunctions:
hours, minutes, seconds, date at 6 oclock
BREGUET MARINE AUTOMATIC BIG DATEMaterial: steelDiameter: 39mmMovement: automatic, calibre 517GGPower reserve: 65 hoursFunctions: hours, minutes, seconds, date
0024 WATCHWORLD 59
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TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE 1887 JACK HEUER CHRONOGRAPHMaterial: titaniumDiameter: 45mmMovement: automatic, calibre 1887
Power reserve: 50 hoursFunctions: chronograph, pulsometer, tachymeter, date
BULGARI ENDURER CHRONOSPRINT
Material: steel Diameter: 56mmMovement: automatic, calibre DR 1306
Power reserve: 45 hoursFunctions: date, second time zone
0024 WATCHWORLD60
PHOTOSHOOT
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BREITLING TRANSOCEAN CHRONOGRAPHMaterial: steeland rose goldDiameter: 43mm
Movement: automatic, calibre Breitling 01
Power reserve: 70 hours
Functions: chronograph, date
0024 WATCHWORLD 61
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PHOTOSHOOT
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CHOPARDCLASSIC
Material:white goldDiameter:33mm
Movement: automatic,calibreSellitaSW300
Powerreserve: 42hours
Functions:hours,minutes,seconds, date
LOUISVUITTONTAMBOUR
EVOLUTIONGMTCHRONOGRAPH
Material: steelDiameter: 45mm
Movement:automatic, calibre LV92
Power reserve:42 hoursFunctions:chronograph,
GMT, dayandnight indicator
0024 WATCHWORLD 63
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OMEGASEAMASTERAQUATERRA>15000GAUSS
Material: steelDiameter:41.5mmMovement:automatic,Co-Axial calibre8508
Powerreserve:60hoursFunctions:chronometer,date
IWC PORTOFINOAUTOMATIC
Material:steelDiameter: 40mmMovement:automatic,calibre35110
Power reserve:42hoursFunctions:hours,minutes,seconds,date
0024 WATCHWORLD64
PHOTOSHOOT
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ROLEXOYSTERPERPETUAL DAY-DATEMaterial:white goldDiameter: 36mmMovement: automatic, calibre 3155Powerreserve: 48hoursFunctions:day anddate indicator,stopseconds
0024 WATCHWORLD 65
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INTERVIEW By Lex Stolk, pictures Herms
Arceau Lift
0024 WATCHWORLD66
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WATCHEShave moregrowth potentialthan LEATHER
and SILK
The watch campaign ofHerms CEO Luc Perramond
The Herms flagship store in the
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honor
in Paris looks like a fortress.
Look up from the street and see
how a horseman keeps a close
eye on everything from the roof.
The saddle makers of yesteryear
built an emporium based on
traditional quality and today it
is filled with a range of luxury
goods, including watches.
Increasingly complicated
watches intended to conquer
the world. 0024 WatchWorld
talks to CEO Luc Perramond in
the Parisian bulwark.
The Herms head office is a real
labyrinth. Behind the facade of
the several-stories-high flagship
people are hard at work in countless
uneven-floored offices in narrow hallways that
unpredictably meander to the left and then
suddenly veer off at right angles. In one of these
rooms CEO Luc Perramond awaits us to talk
about the Arceau Lift the most complicated
Herms watch creation and the watch strategy
of the house in general. Luc Perramond never
gives the impression that he is holding anything
back. He tells things the way they are, nothing
more, nothing less. So no diversions or smokes-
creens when we ask him about the movement
of the recently revealed Arceau Lift. The
movement was built in conjunction with the
specialists at La Joux-Perret, Perramond tells us.
Since 2006 we have been investing in Vaucher
for the manufacture of our own movements
Luc Perramond
0024 WATCHWORLD 67
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but this highly complicated calibre, of which
only very few copies are being made, is a job for
specialists.
Which doesnt mean that the integration of the
different facets of watchmaking doesnt keep
on progressing. Since 2011 we have shares in
case producer Erard and last year we became
the full owner of Nateber, a producer of dials.
That shows that we are ambitiously working
on establishing Herms as an integrated watch
producer.
The magic (marketing) word manufacture
comes up. We currently control three strate-
gic components of a watch: the movement,
the case and the hands, Perramond explains.
That we make our own leather straps goes
without saying and together with those other
three components around 95 percent and
sometimes even more of the components of
a Herms watch actually come from Herms.
Talking about manufacture; we are the only
watch house that makes its own leather straps.
Every watch has hands, but they are still
lacking in the component chain forged by Her-
ms. Perramond knows why this is: Although
the hands are an essential component of a
watch, I still think they are a component that
we have to integrate in our house. To be cost-
efficient hands must be produced on a large
scale, and we are simply not big enough. Other
watch brands dont really have something that
fits in with our strategy, so we purchase hands
elsewhere. We do business with the best Swiss
hand makers to make sure that our quality
standards are never compromised. Now we can
focus on our latest acquisitions and develop
them to the best of our ability; in the area of
quality as well as quantity.
That comment takes us to the growth of Her-
ms as a watch brand. Haute horlogerie has
conquered the world and Herms wants a sha-
re of it, but that is only possible if enough inte-
resting mechanical watches can distributed
around the world. At Herms watches are con-
sidered a growth product, Perramond reveals,
not entirely unexpectedly. Luxury watches are
a business unit that has more growth potential
than the more established product catego-
ries like leather and silk. We have enormous
potential with our watches. With a turnover of
176 million, watches currently constitute 5% of
the total Herms turnover. I believe that with
the production of our watches we can grow
that to a 10% share, which is why we continue
to invest in products with added value that
will surprise our customer base when it comes
to creativity and innovation. With the new
Arceau Lift we have created a serious complica-
tion that will stand firmly alongside our poetic
complications like Le Temps Suspendu. When it
comes to traditional as well as c reative compli-
cations, the world will hear from us. Come and
take a look at BaselWorld 2014, when it is once
again time for complicated technology and
poetry i