18 where.ca // CANADIAN ROCKIES

Water as Muse From June 14 to October 18, the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies in Banff (p 57) features an ode to ‘eau’. Water is a visually stunning exhibit, showcasing paintings, videos and instal-lations from the mid 1800s to today.

Anne Ewen, the museum’s curator of art and heritage, says there’s beauty and bleakness in the show. In our own backyard, environmental issues such as flooding and receding glaciers are highlighted through comparative art and imagery that may shock the eye.

Recent photographs of shrinking glaciers con-trast with shots taken over 100 years ago by Vaux family members. These juxtaposed images are the focus of another Whyte exhibit, Legacy in Time (p 56), which runs parallel to Water.

Other pieces in Water reflect the Canadian Rockies’ majesty, like an oil painting by museum

founder Peter Whyte. His Mount Ringrose, Oesa Falls portrays a waterfall above breathtaking Lake O’Hara (p 30). Whyte and his wife (and museum co-founder) Catharine were avid hik-ers and painters of the region.

Ewen is also excited about an installation by artist Faye HeavyShield. “She’s created over 100 little paper and wax boats. The installation follows the flow of the river nearby you—in our case, the Bow River (p 46),” she explains. Another piece is Shelley Ouellet’s Johnston Falls from the collection of the Alberta Foundation for the Arts, which brings to life the popular canyon hiking destination (p 45) through 80,000 beads that pour downward and spill onto the floor.

Water is integral to Canadian identity, Ewen says. “A lot of people, when they think about Canada, think about pristine waterways and the canoe. I hope this exhibition will help people recognize the preciousness of water, and think PH

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By Afton Aikens

Water’sGlaciers, rivers,

falls and lakes—your summer

playground Wonders

SUMMER 2015 // where.ca 19

For visitors—and locals on a staycation—the Canadian Rockies are synonymous with big mountain skiing, hiking to pristine lakes and countless other outdoor pursuits like canoeing on waterways amidst peaks.

While we’re far from the coast, much of our lifestyle revolves around water. We glide on it, climb its frozen form, and yes, we swim in it (for a short window in summer). We photograph and admire its beauty.

The Canadian Rockies boast North America’s three main watersheds and a copious fresh water supply. As a resource, water is both powerful and precious. It shapes mountains and valleys, and sustains life.

Water offers connection to our environment, from adrenaline-charged adventures like river rafting to quiet contemplation of glaciers that span miles and millennia. Water creates memories, and inspiration for artists who interpret it through their works.

about how they’ll respect it when they’re out on it or in it,” she notes.

World-Renowned Waters Water is historically significant to this region—it led to the creation of Banff National Park. In 1883, three railway workers discovered thermal springs at what is now the Cave and Basin National Historic Site (p 57). An ownership dispute ensued, and in 1885 the federal govern-ment made the area Canada’s first national park.

Today, you can soak in the mineral-rich waters of the Banff Upper Hot Springs (p 89). At the Miette Hot Springs in Jasper (naturally the Canadian Rockies’ warmest), water is cooled from 54°C to 40°C before it enters the pool (p 148). The Kootenay Rockies boast several heavenly hot springs (p 34 and 35).

Visitors also come from afar to see iconic Cana-dian Rockies lakes, glaciers and falls. The aqua-

marine and brilliant blue waters of Lake Louise and Moraine Lake are bucket-list worthy. Rent a canoe (p 66) or walk the lakeshore (p 46).

Closer to the Banff townsite, explore Lake Min-newanka—the national park’s largest—by boat (tours and rentals p 66) or on foot. Nearby are Two Jack and Johnson lakes (p 45). All three are great spots to spend a summer day (Lake Minnewanka has a café with drinks and snacks; Johnson Lake is ‘warmest’ for swimming). You’ll likely spot bighorn sheep out for a roadside stroll.

North of Lake Louise beside the Icefields Parkway are Bow and Peyto lakes (p 43). At Bow Lake, gaze up at Bow and Crowfoot glaciers that feed the Bow River, which runs into the South Sas-katchewan River and eventually Hudson’s Bay.

The Icefields Parkway (p 43 and 131) traces the spine of the Continental Divide. One hun-dred glaciers grace its western flank. The most

20 where.ca // CANADIAN ROCKIES

famous is the Athabasca Glacier at the Colum-bia Icefield (p 44). The glacier makes up less than 3% of the icefield, and over the past 125 years has lost half its volume and receded by 1.5 km/1 mi—a testament to water’s preciousness.

The Columbia Icefield is vast; its meltwaters feed the Pacific, Arctic and Atlantic oceans. Venture onto the icefield by Ice Explorer tour or guided walk (p 76 and 142), or soar above the 215-sq km/ 130-sq mi area on a heli-tour (p 72 and 140).

South of the Jasper townsite is Maligne Lake, the Canadian Rockies’ largest glacially fed lake. Cruise to iconic Spirit Island, rent a boat (p 137) or walk the shoreline (p 132). Fancy yourself an angler? Take a guided fishing excursion (p 137).

However you choose to dive into the Canadian Rockies this summer, our glaciers, rivers, falls and lakes—not to mention towering peaks—provide an outdoor playground like no other. Get out there and have an adventure!

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Walks to WaterHiking beside a rushing river or toward a thundering waterfall elevates the experience. Here are a few of our favourite trails.

GRASSI LAKES, Canmore (p 45): Hike an hour or two to gleaming greenish-blue waters. Marvel at the trail-building skills (through steep terrain) of legendary Lawrence Grassi, the impressive cliff face of Ha Ling Peak and the prowess of local rock climbers. The adjacent fire road is an easier route.

PLAIN OF SIX GLACIERS, Lake Louise (p 46): This top rated trail on TripAdvisor leads along the Lake Louise shore to a rustic teahouse with treats for hungry hikers. Continue 1.5 km past the teahouse to the Abbot Pass viewpoint for a closer look at the receding Victoria Glacier. Make a day of it (and admire the elevated views) by returning via the Highline Trail to the Lake Agnes teahouse.

MALIGNE CANYON, Jasper (p 132): Peer over the canyon rim and over the rails of six footbridges to appreciate the drama of the 52-metre deep limestone chasm. The churning waters of this Karst landscape run underground, and on the surface are most impressively displayed as a 25-metre waterfall.More trail suggestions p 45 and 132.

Top Rivers to RaftAquatic adventures from white-knuckle rides to family floats are listed on pages 76 and 143.

KANANASKIS (Map A, 10N): Class III rapids were rebuilt after the 2013 flood. “The lower section is more interesting now,” says rafter Daryl Waltz.

BOW: The float below Bow Falls passes the golf course, hoodoos and Mount Rundle (Banff, Map 3, 18L). The run east of Canmore has class III to IV rapids, a waterfall drop and a canyon (Map A, 10P).

KICKING HORSE: Thrill seekers love this river’s class IV rapids, and the adrenaline-inducing Lower Canyon ride, west of Lake Louise (Map 1, 6I).

ATHABASCA: This heritage 1800s fur trade route (Jasper, Map 5, 17F) offers views, a canyon and falls. Class II tours suit all; paddle, or float and enjoy.

SUNWAPTA: Adventurous types can find technical rapids on this class III river (Jasper, Map A, 3K). Its name even means ‘turbulent waters’!

FRASER: This class III river west of Jasper (Map 1, 2N) boasts big rapids, churning eddies and views of Mount Robson. Rearguard Falls is a highlight.