wave action section 13.1. what is a wave? wave – movement of energy through a body wave size...
TRANSCRIPT
What is a wave?
• Wave – movement of energy
through a body
• Wave size depends on:strength of wind
length of time wind blows
distance over which wind blows
What is a wave?• Wave molecules move
in a circular motion• Molecules at the
surface move in a bigger circle than those that are deeper
• At a certain depth, water is not affected by the wave
What is a wave?
Crest – highest point
Trough – lowest point
Wavelength – distance from crest to crest
Wave height – distance from crest to trough
How waves change near shore
• Breakers – white capped waves that crash onto
the shore
Friction on the bottom slows the wave down.Wave height increases and wave length decreases.
How waves affect the shore
• Longshore Drift – the movement of sand as water washes up and carries sand along the beach
How waves affect the shore
• Rip current- a rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening
Waves and beach erosion
Barrier Beaches Sand Dunes Groins