we mean business. · tomatt — tomas maier, bottega veneta creative director. page 11. wwdthursday...

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“Men are so different to seduce and conquer as a client. They’re much more difficult than women.” — Tomas Maier, Bottega Veneta creative director. Page 11.

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“Boris” by Robert Longo.

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By Joelle Diderich

PARIS — The board of the Swatch Group has appointed Nayla Hayek as chairman to succeed her late father Nicolas Hayek, thereby ensuring the world’s largest watchmaker will remain family run.

The announcement surprised markets, which had widely expected Nicolas Hayek’s son Nick to take on the duties of chairman in addition to his position as chief executive officer. However, with the two siblings in charge, analysts did not expect any significant change in the company’s strategy going forward.

“It’s obvious that Nick will be the guy who will run the show,” said Rene Weber, analyst at Vontobel. “But for me, the main point is that it’s a strong sign from the family that both of them are behind the group.”

Nicolas Hayek, the charismatic Swatch co-founder credited with saving the Swiss watch industry in the Eighties, died of a heart attack on Monday at the age of 82 while working at the company’s headquarters in Biel, Switzerland.

Nayla Hayek has sat on the Swatch Group board since 1995 and was named vice president earlier this year.

“Nayla Hayek has been prepared for this function during the past years and has long-standing experience within the board of directors. In addition, she was suc-cessfully active in various operational functions during the last years,” Swatch Group stated.

According to the company’s Web site, she is responsible for Swatch Group Middle East, Swatch Group India and the brand Balmain, and has also taken over the operational leadership of Tiffany Watches.

However, she has kept a relatively low profile compared with her brother Nick and her son Marc, ceo of Blancpain, who has been touted as a potential future ceo for Swatch Group.

“From an operational perspective, she hasn’t had a real hands-on role, certain-ly not in the same way as, say, Nick and Marc, who are often wheeled out at busi-ness presentations and investors’ presen-tations to talk about the business of the

group,” said Jon Cox, analyst at Kepler Capital Markets. “I tend to think that Nayla will be more of a backseat driver from the chairperson’s position, and I think Nick will be running the business on a day-to-day basis. I certainly don’t see any change in strategy of the group.”

Nayla Hayek’s appointment sidesteps the problem of Nick Hayek holding a double mandate, noted Weber. “Nayla has to get known by the public. I think that’s the next step now,” he said.

By Jean E. Palmieri

J. CREW HAS SNAGGEd ANoTHER ExCluSIVE, this time with denim brand Imogene + Willie. The Nashville-based jeans label will offer two styles of men’s jeans and two bags at J. Crew’s men’s stores in TriBeCa, SoHo and on Madison Avenue (opening in late summer) starting at the end of August. The merchandise will also be available online.

Right now, Imogene + Willie jeans are sold only in the brand’s Nashville store and a specialty store in Austin, Tex., named Stag. The line of arti-san denim is the creation of the husband-and-wife team of Matt and Carrie Eddmenson. Before setting up the company, they worked together in a fam-ily business in Kentucky de-signing and developing new processes of garment finish-ing for premium denim for levi’s, lee, Girbaud and Polo Ralph lauren’s RRl, as well as Rogan, J Brand, diesel and Replay. That business closed two years ago, and the couple started Imogene + Willie, which is named for Carrie’s maternal grandparents.

“They’re so pure and ar-tisan,” said Frank Muytjens, vice president of men’s design for J. Crew, of the Eddmensons. “They create their denim in a big metal tub in the backyard, and the leather guy down the street makes the bags. Every jean is a one-off and has Western influences, work-

wear influences. Everything is very crafty and very individual.”

J. Crew will carry a slim straight-leg model, which is “based on a jean from the Forties,” he said, in either a dark rinse with mild abrasion for

$375 or a light wash with more abrasion for $425. There will be a slimmed-down version of a vintage u.S. Mail bag for $650 and a leather tote for $800. Hangtags have been printed from old letter presses, and the sizes will be individually hand-stamped, ac-cording to Matt Eddmenson. There will also be a vintage T-shirt and sweatshirt for women.

The association between the two companies came about after the Eddmensons reached out to J. Crew chief executive offi-cer Millard “Mickey” drexler, whom they had known from his days at Gap. “We sent him an e-mail saying we were en-amored with all the collabora-tions they were doing, and lit-erally three minutes later the phone rang at the store and it was Mickey,” she said.

Although the brand has received “tons of inquiries” from other retailers want-ing to carry the jeans, Carrie

Eddmenson said it is a “strate-gic decision” not to wholesale beyond J. Crew and Stag. “We

want to keep it pretty intimate,” she said.The “mid- to long-term goal,” he said, is to

open additional locations, but “no more than three.” His wife added: “We like that people are flying to Nashville to come to the store.”

Nayla Hayek Named Swatch Chairman

J. Crew, Imogene + Willie Join Up

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4FASHIONA look at all the top men’s wear trends for spring , straight from the Milan and Paris runways.

GENERALWith the first half done and gone, fashion’s hopes for 2010 now rest on the back-to-school and holiday seasons — but there’s little indication that the teen crowd or Santa will save the industry this year.The board of the Swatch Group has appointed Nayla Hayek as chairman to succeed her late father Nicolas Hayek, thereby ensuring the world’s largest watchmaker will remain family run.Although still in its infancy, the men’s line of PPR-owned Bottega Veneta is having a growth spurt, according to creative director Tomas Maier.Macy’s Inc. is helping the arts in New York City. The Macy’s division is sponsoring Public Theater’s Shakespeare in the Park, while the Bloomingdale’s division will spotlight “The KedsWhitney Collection” to support the Whitney Museum of American Art.

Having almost doubled its revenues in 2009, Spanish fashion brand Desigual is launching online sales in September in a bid to boost business in key markets.

EYEWith her new project, first-time filmmaker Angela Ismailos has tapped into a pool that has so far evaded the cameras — the very people behind them.

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• WWD EyeScoop: The best eco-friendly

spas around the world, plus a new

exhibition of surf-inspired art

• More images from the John Baldessari

retrospective• Additional images

of the Desigual store in Paris

• Beauty Radar Screen: July 1

QUOTEDAILY

The light-wash men’s jean will retail for $425.

“It’s obvious that Nick [Hayek] will be the guy who will run the show. But for me, the main point is that it’s a strong sign from the family that both of them are behind the group.”— Rene Weber, Vontobel

Nayla Hayek, the newly appointed chairman of the Swatch Group.

A look from the Bottega Veneta spring collection.

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The top trends for spring , straight from the Milan and Paris runways.

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For more, see WWD.com.


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AlfAni hAs hit the trifectA.Macy’s private label men’s line has

inked a deal with a trio of men to star in the company’s fall advertising campaign. they succeed singer-songwriter ne-Yo, whose one-year association with Alfani has ended.

first up is actor Jesse Williams, who plays Dr. Jackson Avery on the ABc series “Grey’s Anatomy.” he will be joined by entrepre-neur Brian neal and Dallas cowboys wide receiver Miles Austin. the three men were chosen “for their expression of style and achievements in their respective craft,” ac-cording to the company. the first ads will break in the september GQ issue and on gq.com, as well as in Alfani departments at Macy’s stores nationwide.

the ads will feature each celebrity sur-rounded by the men who helped create their success. All are dressed in Alfani. Williams, who was shot in los Angeles in

June by norman Jean roy, is joined by his publicist, Jeffrey chassen, consultant Michael sanka and writing partner stefan Maralochrakis. neal, founder and director of henry island Productions, and Austin

will be photographed later this month.

“Alfani customers are as diverse as they are style con-scious. We wanted to cham-pion an ad campaign that embodies that rich diversity. this campaign allows us to tell an intimate story about the Alfani product and the men who wear it,” said nancy slavin, senior vice presi-dent of marketing for Macy’s Merchandising Group.

in addition to the print campaign, Macy’s will re-lease a series of videos fea-

turing behind-the-scenes footage from the shoots. the videos will be released in tan-dem with the print campaign on gq.com.

Alfani is Macy’s top-selling men’s brand. — Jean E. Palmieri

By Emilie Marsh

BotteGA VenetA Men’s collection hAs hit the ground running.

Although still in its infancy, the men’s line of PPr-owned Bottega Veneta is having a growth spurt, according to creative di-rector tomas Maier.

After unveiling his traveling-man-themed spring men’s wear show last week, the German designer, who joined Bottega Veneta in 2001, is gearing up for a flurry of new projects, including the label’s first men’s-only advertising campaign in August and a new men’s watch. Men’s-only stores and a men’s fragrance are also in the works.

“everything is in balance; it’s the right time for men’s wear,” Maier said in an interview in the com-pany’s pristine showroom in Milan a few days after the June runway show.

Added Marco Bizzarri, Bottega Veneta’s chief ex-ecutive officer, “the category is growing rapidly and there’s great potential for the future.”

While Bizzarri declined to break out Bottega Veneta’s men’s wear figures, the label overall logged the strongest individual performance in PPr’s luxury portfolio, Gucci Group, with a first-quarter sales in-crease of 9.5 percent.

launched in 2004, Maier put men’s wear on the run-way in 2006. ever since, his collections have won plau-dits for textile research and vivid contrasts of structure and fluidity.

Maier said he wanted to communicate that sense of precision in Bottega Veneta’s first global advertising cam-paign for men, shot by robert longo, the American artist. longo drew inspiration from his “Men in the cities” series, the late seventies graphite drawings that depict sharply dressed businessmen and women contorted in emotion-packed positions.

“it is very dynamic, very sharp, very precise,” Maier ex-plained. “it mixes different elements. from the silhouette of the clothes and the eccentricity of the moment, as well as the study of certain iconic pieces that are in the campaign, it re-flects very much what the Bottega man is about — a confident individual.”

the ad will run globally in select titles, including GQ, Vanity fair, the new Yorker, Vogue hommes, l’Uomo Vogue and Brutus in september.

central to Maier’s men’s aesthetic is functionality: real clothes for real men.

“Men’s clothing should be functional. i think as beautiful as it is, as beautiful as it looks on a page of a magazine, it’s not functional if you don’t have a consumer,” he said.

the Bottega Veneta men’s range currently includes ready-to-wear, accessories, shoes, bags and jewelry. timepieces are next. A unisex watch, dubbed BVX and made by sowind Group, owner of swiss watchmaker Girard-Perregaux, will hit select Bottega Veneta stores by the end of the year, Maier said. A men’s fragrance could follow, he added.

the watch features 18-karat rose-gold components, a brushed-titanium case and a intrecciato crocodile strap with an adjustable clasp in the shape of the brand’s signa-ture belt buckle. in tune with the Bottega Veneta philosophy, the logo is not on the face but engraved on one of the elements of the mechanism.

“Men are so different to seduce and conquer as a client. they’re much more difficult than women. if you betray him and it doesn’t work, he’ll never come back. But once you get them, they’ll stay with you. they’re more loyal,” he said.

to increase loyalty, Maier said he was in the process of considering a men’s-only retail concept.

“i want the category to evolve, to provide more dedicated space and even more dedi-cated stores to men’s categories,” Maier said, though he declined to provide a time frame.

“We recently opened a men’s shop in harrods, and we will continue to open shops in appropriate locations as opportunities arise,” Bizzarri added. Bottega Veneta counts 135 stores worldwide. the company has opened a series of men’s-only sales points in department stores including harrods, which bowed last year.

WWD.COM11WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 1, 2010

Mugler Signs Pact With Inghirami for Men’s Wear

Bottega’s Men’s Line Finds Stride

The new ad campaign breaks in September.

PARIS — thierry Mugler, the Paris-based fashion and fragrance house owned by Groupe clarins, has inked a deal with italy’s inghirami to manufacture and dis-tribute thierry Mugler’s men’s wear.

“We are excited about the collabora-tion with inghirami and to be able to benefit from their outstanding facilities and expertise in the manufacturing of men’s wear,” said Joel Palix, president of clarins fragrance. the first collec-tion will be available in the fall.

Prior to inghirami, thierry Mugler’s men’s wear was manufactured by italy’s tombolini Group, which owns the thierry Mugler store in Paris. Under the new licensing agreement, the men’s

store will shutter before the end of this year, a Mugler spokesman said.

thierry Mugler’s men’s wear is avail-able in some 50 multibrand retailers in france, italy, canada, the U.s. and russia.

“this agreement is part of our on-going strategy of continued growth in the luxury market,” stated Giovanni inghirami, president of inghirami Group. established in 1949, inghirami produces fabrics and yarns as well as men’s wear for firms including ingram, robert friedman, reporter, sanremo, fabio inghirami, Pancaldi & B and Peter & sons.

— E.M.

foUnDeD As A coAch BUilDer in hollAnD in 1898, spyker has a rich history in the transportation business. in fact, the Queen of the netherlands still uses its Golden state coach for state functions today. By 1903, the company branched out into motorcars and during World War i, it produced fighter aircraft. spyker hit hard times and went out of business in the twenties, but its legend lived on and in 2000, Dutch entrepreneur Victor Muller — who became famous earlier this year by acquiring saab from General Motors — set out to revive the brand. Part of the strategy is to create a lifestyle collection around the spyker brand, beginning with watches.

spearheaded by luxury accessories vet-eran thierry chaunu, chief executive officer of expression D’Artistes, the company has developed a collection of timepieces that reflects the history of the car brand. Manufactured in Geneva, the spyker time-pieces feature hand-stitched leather straps by the same

craftspeople who create the interiors of the cars, as well as dials that replicate pieces of the car including spokes

of the wheels on the back and intake valves on the side. only 1,000 of the steel and titanium watches were

produced and there are 250 in gold or white gold. retail prices range from $9,750 for steel and top out at more than $30,000 for 18k gold.

the primary target is the spyker customer, chaunu said, not-ing the watches can be customized with the car owner’s name and the chassis number of the vehicle, and the leather colors can

also be selected to match the car. Distribution will be limited to around 15 to 20 high-end watch

retailers and spyker-sponsored car owners events in the U.s. next up is to increase the number of watch models on offer, and

also explore expansion into other categories. chaunu, whose prior stints include cartier, christofle, chopard and leviev, said natural extensions

include eyewear, accessories such as cuff links and key chains, and small leather goods. “there’s so much you can do in the sphere of the discerning gentleman,” said carsten Preisz, vice president of sales and marketing for spyker of north America.

Although spyker was impacted by the recession — the company produced 39 handcrafted cars last year versus 43 in 2008 at prices that start at $209,000 — Preisz said the plan is to introduce a new model later this year, the c8 Aileron, that should double the number of vehicles available in the market over the next year.

— J.E.P.

Spyker watches are available in a variety of materials.

Spyker Offering Timepieces

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Williams to Appear for Alfani

A look from the spring collection.

Men’s

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In an age of austerIty, Macy’s Inc. Is helpIng the arts In new york city. the Macy’s division for the first time is sponsoring public theater’s shakespeare in the park, while the Bloomingdale’s division will spotlight “the Kedswhitney collection” to support the whitney Museum of american art.

“we have a lot of wonderful corporate sponsors, but in this economy it does get harder,” acknowledged public theater’s director of development, casey reitz, backstage at the Delacorte theater in central park tuesday evening, where Macy’s had a picnic preceding a performance of “the winter’s tale.”

“this is a natural connection between two iconic new york institutions,” said robin reibel, Macy’s group vice president for media relations and cause market-ing. “this is high-quality theater in a gorgeous setting, free of charge.” Macy’s went the extra yard providing some men’s linen shirts for the costuming. the store also supports the Metropolitan opera and new york city Ballet.

Bloomingdale’s will spotlight artist-designed Keds sneakers July 8 to 21 in its lexington avenue windows, which will go interactive with foursquare, touch screens and art students perform-ing their craft on canvas to celebrate american art. the Keds designs by con-ceptual artist Jenny holzer and paint-ers laura owens and sarah crowner will be sold at Bloomingdale’s with a percentage of the profits donated to the whitney. the artists exhib-ited at the museum’s biennial, and the all-american Keds brand is sponsoring the whitney’s summer season. holzer’s look for Keds, which invokes one of her text series, “survival: protect Me from what I want,” will be followed by owens and crowner’s interpretations in september.

“It’s great that Keds and the whitney are friends,” said holzer. “I have a re-newed respect for shoe designers.” Kristin Kohler Burrows, president of Keds, said the whitney project is “the personification of our new brand proposition and the wide range of creative possibilities Keds offers.”

— David Moin


TOKYO — uniqlo is broadening its asian presence to yet another country: Malaysia.uniqlo’s corporate parent, fast retailing co. ltd., said it has formed a joint

venture with Dnp clothing sdn Bhd to open and operate stores in the southeast asian nation.

uniqlo is shooting to open its first store in the country this fall or winter, a spokeswoman said. she added it is too soon to estimate how many more stores the brand will roll out in Malaysia.

fast retailing owns 55 percent of the joint venture, while Dnp clothing con-trols 45 percent.

uniqlo is ramping up its presence in asia. the fast-fashion brand, which is known for its affordable basics and fabric innovations, will open its first store in taiwan sometime this fall. Its existing retail network includes stores in hong Kong, Mainland china, south Korea and singapore.

— Amanda Kaiser

Jane lauDer has Been naMeD global president and general manager of the origins and ojon divisions of the estée lauder cos. Inc.

In her new role, lauder will be re-sponsible for the overall strategic direc-tion, global development, management and growth of both brands. she will con-tinue to report to lynne greene, the glob-al president who oversees the clinique, origins and ojon brands. lauder also sits on the company’s board.

“It’s exciting to be able to add more responsibility for the direction of origins and ojon,” lauder told wwD. she has served as senior vice president and gen-eral manager of the origins brand since July 2008. “I believe overseeing both brands will give us the ability to lever-age our knowledge in naturals — how we find and use ingredients for various cat-egories, how we make them sustainable. Being responsible for both will offer flex-ibility in research and development and other areas.”

lauder noted that ojon, acquired by the company in 2007 and currently available in the u.s., canada, the u.K., germany and australia, offers “signifi-cant potential” for growth, both in the u.s. and abroad. origins is already ex-panding internationally; in March, the company began selling in Mainland china, and now has five doors in shanghai and Beijing.

lauder has also been instrumental in origins’ reassertion of its nineties iden-tity — namely, as a high-performance, naturally based, ecologically friendly brand with skin care products billed as efficacious as those which are purely lab-oratory creations — with a number of ini-tiatives, including the tag line “powered by nature, proven by science.” she has also worked to develop new merchandis-ing programs — such as presenting prod-ucts according to skin care concerns like redness rather than by product category or franchise — for origins’ 130 stores and 400 department store doors in the u.s.

prior to assuming her role at origins, lauder was senior vice president of global marketing at clinique from 2006 to 2008. she also played a key role in creat-ing and launching the american Beauty and flirt brands as vice president of mar-keting for BeautyBank, the company’s think tank division.

— Julie Naughton

La Prairie’s Cellular BoostIn a bid to grow of one of its best-selling franchises, la prairie is set to launch in september cellular radiance emulsion spf 30 — a product designed to brighten and hydrate skin and fight signs of aging.

the item joins four others in la prairie’s cellular radiance lineup, said lynne florio, president of la prairie. “the radiance franchise does about 12 percent of our overall business, and we ex-pect this new addition to boost that with-out cannibalizing business,” she said.

while florio refused to discuss sales projections, industry sources estimated the product could add at least $5 million at retail in its first year on counter to the radiance franchise, which does about $10 million at retail yearly.

Margaret edelman, managing director of product development for la prairie, noted key ingredients include “a state-of-the-art peptide” combined with colloidal gold parti-cles, said to help increase levels of collagen and improve skin elasticity; extract of silver vine, added to increase skin brightness; zinc, magnesium and copper, all designed to protect skin from oxidative stress, and a brightening complex intended to prevent age spots from forming and even skin tone.

the product will retail for $425 for 1.7 oz. It will be available in about 240 spe-cialty store doors, including Bergdorf goodman, Bloomingdale’s, neiman Marcus, nordstrom and saks fifth avenue.

— J.N.

Jane Lauder Adds to RoleMacy’s Aiding the Arts

Uniqlo Expanding Into Malaysia

From the KedsWhitney Collection.

BEAUTY BEATJane Lauder

THE CHANGES GO ON: The game of media musical chairs reached a fever pitch earlier this week, when news broke Condé Nast golden child David Carey had been poached by (or fled to) Hearst to head up its magazines division. And the poaching — call it “tapping,” if you like — continues. After hiring former Glamour articles editor Sunny Sea Gold as her deputy editor of features earlier this month, Redbook editor in chief (and former executive editor of Glamour) Jill Herzig has made another raid on her 4 Times Square stomping grounds, albeit at a different publication. Herzig has hired Lucky’s executive editor, Meredith Rollins, to work her magic in the same role at Redbook, the Hearst supermarket staple, beginning July 19. Rollins has been executive editor at Lucky since 2005. (Before that, she was articles director at W and worked in features at New York, George and Harper’s Bazaar.)

And in the digital world…elle.com executive editor Anna Pezik is jumping to Hearst Magazines to become fashion and beauty director of its Digital Media unit. She starts July 12. In the newly created position, Pezik will oversee the Web teams for harpersbazaar.com and RealBeauty.com and consult on fashion and beauty coverage for Hearst’s other sites. Pezik, who, prior to joining elle.com in 2008, held positions at brides.com, Life & Style Weekly and instyle.com, will report to Mark Weinberg, vice president of programming and product strategy at Hearst Magazines Digital Media.

Elle.com, in turn, has tapped Kat Thomsen, currently managing editor of gq.com, to be its new managing editor, effectively replacing Pezik. The site also has signed

up Fabiola Beracasa to host Web videos — a victory for socialites everywhere. — Nick Axelrod

DOMINO EFFECT: Some of Condé Nast’s most beloved titles that have shuttered during the past few years are getting a second life online. Last week, the company unveiled plans for Gourmet Live, a new site that will hold all that magazine’s past issues. Now it’s Domino’s turn: The defunct magazine’s complete archive is coming to brides.com. To the outside

observer, it may seem a bit odd that a wedding Web site is the new home to the Domino vault, but editor in chief Julie Raimondi contends, as she would, that it’s a natural fit. “A wedding means the beginning of building a home,” she said. “They will be getting more for their home than ever before and maybe, ever again, because of the registry.” (Presumably, providing their wedding guests are really generous.) Raimondi noted that after all the rights and contracts are squared away, every single issue of Domino will live on brides.com. “It should all be available by the end of the year,” she said in a comment that should delight the legion

of Domino readers who bewailed the struggling magazine’s closure in March 2009 in a well-orchestrated campaign to try to get Condé Nast to keep it alive.

Domino is just one part of brides.com’s relaunch, which takes place this week. The site had formerly been home to content from Condé Nast’s three bridal titles — Elegant Bride, Modern Bride and Brides — but with two of the three now closed, it needed to create a new identity. The aim is to run 90 percent original content by yearend (brides.com has about 60 percent original edit now). The new site, which counts Crate & Barrel and Estée Lauder as launch sponsors, will have a greater focus on localized wedding-planning ideas, more blogs

and a refreshed Facebook page. And Raimondi added that e-commerce initiatives will be introduced this fall. — Amy Wicks

NOTES FROM A SMALL ISLAND: Christopher Bailey has combined his passions for all things musical and digital in a new online initiative: Burberry Acoustic. Users now will be able to log on to live.burberry.com and watch session performances by new and emerging British bands handpicked by Bailey, Burberry’s chief creative officer. The site had a soft launch with the tracks “Alleyway” by Life in Film, “Remember” by Misty Miller and “How Long” by Ramona. There is no commercial element to Burberry Acoustic, although in a bit of subliminal marketing, band members are wearing pieces of Burberry mixed in with their own clothes. A company spokesman said details, such as the number of bands on the site and the frequency of new posts, have yet been revealed. In the past, Bailey has worked closely with — and dressed — bands including Florence and the Machine, Coco Sumner, Life in Film, The Kooks and One Night Only — all of which could make a future appearance on the site.

But designing multiple fashion collections and producing music sessions is clearly not enough to keep the kinetic Bailey occupied. Of late, the designer has been busy been cross-pollinating Burberry talent, scoring a role for actress Emma Watson — who has appeared in the brand’s ad campaigns — in One Night Only’s new music video, which is due for release in September. — Samantha Conti

CHIRAC EXITS PPR: Claude Chirac, the daughter and ex-personal adviser of former French president Jacques Chirac, is leaving her post as head of communications of retail-to-luxury PPR for personal reasons. The 47-year-old, who joined the company in late 2007, will remain in her job until a successor is found, a spokesperson for the group said. The decision was reached by mutual agreement with PPR chief executive officer François-Henri Pinault, the spokesperson added. — Joelle Diderich

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WWD.COMWWD, THURSDAY, JULY 1, 2010 13

By Joelle Diderich

PARIS — Having almost doubled its revenues in 2009, Spanish fashion brand Desigual is launching online sales in September in a bid to boost business in key markets.

The Barcelona-based company, known for its colorful patchwork looks for women, men and children, will launch e-commerce in France, Spain, Italy and Germany, chief execu-tive offi cer Manel Adell said.

“The launch is designed to test that the lo-gistics work, but our aim is to be global. It’s es-pecially important for the U.S. market,” he said at the opening of the brand’s French fl agship near the Paris Opera.

France is a key market for the brand and should account for 17 to 18 per-cent of sales in 2010, versus 13 per-cent the previous year.

With a surface of 18,300 square feet and annual rent in the region

of 2 million euros, or $2.4 million, the Opera store needs to generate revenues of 7 million to 10 million euros, or $8.4 million to $12 mil-lion, in order to be profi table, Adell said.

Desigual has multiplied revenues by 35 in eight years, posting sales of 307 million euros, or $428 million, in 2009 versus 162 million euros, or $238 million, in 2008. All dollar rates are calculated at average exchange rates for the periods to which they refer.

“Last year represented a turning point for the brand in terms of becoming an inter-

national player because, for the fi rst time, more than

50 percent of its sales came from outside

of Spain,” said Ana Cabanas, market-ing director of the company.

The firm plans to invest 80 mil-lion to 90 million euros, or $96 mil-

lion to $108 mil-lion, in new stores

and infrastructure this year after reining

back capital spending to 21 million euros, or $25 million, in 2009 as a result of the global economic crisis.

The company expects to end 2010 with 180 stores, 7,000 multi-brand outlets and 650 corners in department stores.

Though Europe remains the key market, the fi rm is also rapid-ly expanding in the United States, where Desigual launched two seasons ago. The brand is pres-ent in 1,000 multibrand stores in the U.S. and 35 corners in Macy’s department stores. It has also opened fi ve stand-alone stores: two in New York, one in Miami, one in Las Vegas and one in Beverly Hills, with San Francisco and another New York location set to follow in the fall.

“We are optimistic about the American market, and it is also important with the evolution of the dollar,” Adell explained. “Being exposed only in Europe is not a good idea for a brand that aims to become global.”

Desigual sources 85 percent of its apparel in Asia and, although it does not plan to change suppli-ers as a result of the depreciat-ing euro, it is looking to generate more revenue in dollars.

“Our strategy regarding the dollar is to develop the U.S. mar-ket in order to have more sales in dollars and benefi t from natural hedging,” he said.

The company is also rapidly de-veloping its children’s and acces-sories lines, introduced two years ago, which are set to generate as much revenue in 2010 as the whole company did in 2006 — close to 50 million euros, or $60 million.

PERRY WOLFMAN HAS been named president and chief operating officer of Authentic Brands Group, an intellectual property firm that acquires, manages and builds consumer brands. He will report to James Salter, chairman and chief executive officer of ABG.

Wolfman was founder, ceo and president of Consolidated Apparel Group, a men’s pri-vate label sportswear fi rm he sold to Hartmarx Corp. in 2001. More recently, he’s been an in-vestor in several real estate, Internet and marketing fi rms.

ABG’s only property it manages so far is the Bob Marley business. According to Salter, ABG will own and control the brands and li-cense out the categories. Among the industries in which they’re looking to ac-quire companies are media, home, apparel, celebrity and sporting goods, said Wolfman. Salter said he has two letters of intent under contract and expects them to be complet-ed within 30 to 60 days. One is in the celebrity world, and the other is in the sporting goods-action sports category.

Earlier this month, ABG completed a $250 million eq-uity capital raise with Green Equity Investors V LP, an af-fi liate of Leonard Green & Partners LP; Knight’s Bridge Capital Partners Inc., a wholly owned subsidiary of Counsel Corp., and Salter. “We hope to raise another $250 million in senior debt,” said Salter, adding, “Our goal is to buy between six and 10 companies over the next 24 months.” The target acquisi-tion size is between $50 mil-lion and $150 million.

— Lisa Lockwood

By Alexandra Steigrad

CHICO’S FAS INC. AND ITS WHITE HOUSE|BLACK MARKET INC. division believe Caché Inc. attempted to add to its cachet illegally.

The retailer has accused two former employees, Rabia Farhang and Christine Board, of supplying Caché, their subsequent employer, with confi dential information and trade secrets.

The defendants were WH|BM merchandise managers until the fall and allegedly provided rival women’s apparel retailer Caché with prod-uct design and developmental plans regarding WH|BM’s seasonal lines through this year, according to court papers fi led Tuesday in New York State Supreme Court.

WH|BM asserted that Farhang, currently Caché’s executive vice president and general merchandise manager, and Board, a senior mer-chant, were “intimately involved in the conceptualization and develop-ment of WH|BM’s 2010 spring, summer and fall seasonal lines, includ-ing color palettes, themes and prints, designed styles and outfi ts.”

Charges against the retailer and the two merchants include breach of contract, misappropriation of trade secrets, unfair competition, theft-conversion and breach of fi duciary and other legal duties.

The plaintiff has requested a jury trial and is seeking unspecifi ed compen-satory damages, attorneys’ fees and costs and punitive and exemplary damages.

In the event of a guilty verdict, WH|BM is looking for a recall of all garments in the New York-based retailer’s spring and summer lines that were “directly or indirectly” derived from confi dential, pro-prietary and-or trade secret information. WH|BM also asked that its competitor stop designing, manufacturing, marketing, distributing and selling any garments in its fall line, or any line thereafter, derived from the alleged confi dential information.

Additionally, the Fort Myers, Fla.-based fi rm has demanded the de-fendants “make appropriate corrective disclosure to industry profes-sionals and fi nancial analysts” of their actions.

Calls seeking comment from Caché were not returned by press time.

By Cate T. Corcoran

UNDER-THE-RADAR INDIE E-TAILER MODCLOTH HAS RAISED $19.8 million in funding from Accel Partners to further develop social commerce and expand its operations.

Founded in 2002 as an online vintage store by now-married part-ners Susan Gregg Koger and Eric Koger when they were teenagers, ModCloth was run out of a dorm room while the two attended Carnegie Mellon University. After graduating in 2006, they added inexpensive, vintage-inspired new clothing to the site, which grew quickly. In 2009, ModCloth had $19 million in revenues and became profi table.

The company was an early pioneer of using social media for online marketing, including holding contests and building community through its own and other blogs and sites such as MySpace, Flickr, Polyvore and Twitter. In November, the company started its Be the Buyer pro-gram, which allows any visitor to vote on which clothing samples should be produced for sale.

“We want to fundamentally change the fashion industry,” said Gregg Koger. “For so long, creating fashion has been this top-down process where the few ‘insiders’ at the top get to say what’s cool. We’ve already started to change that through programs like Be the Buyer, which em-powers customers to vote samples from indie designers into produc-tion. But that’s just the beginning; our list of to-dos is a mile long.”

The funding closed in May, although ModCloth revealed it Wednesday, and the company moved its headquarters from Pittsburgh to San Francisco the same month. The company wanted to attract top technology tal-ent to create its customer experi-ence and continue to develop a pro-prietary social e-commerce plat-form, said Gregg Koger. ModCloth plans to open a third offi ce in Los Angeles in the next few months to manage its supply chain. Pittsburgh will handle distribution and customer service. The company has more than 150 employees.

“ModCloth is helping to change the way people shop in the same way that Facebook changed the way we communicate,” said Theresia Gouw Ranzetta, lead investor on the Accel team. “In a very short pe-riod of time and with little outside capital, the company has leveraged the social Web to empower a wildly loyal and engaged customer base.”

Accel is also an investor in Facebook, crafts marketplace Etsy and group-buying site Groupon. Ranzetta will join the board. Other inves-tors include First Round Capital and Floodgate, who also participat-ed in an earlier round of funding for $2 million in March 2009 and $1 million in June 2008. They also have seats on the board, along with ModCloth’s founders.

ModCloth recently added plus-size clothing. Venture capital fi rms have lately shown increased interest in online retail, particularly pri-vate sale companies such as Gilt Groupe.

Chico’s Sues Caché

E-tailer ModCloth Secures Funding

Desigual Launching E-commerce in Growth Push

Perry Wolfman Named to Authentic Brands Post

gistics work, but our aim is to be global. It’s es-pecially important for the U.S. market,” he said at the opening of the brand’s French

France is a key market for the brand

national player because, for the fi rst time, more than

50 percent of its sales came from outside

of Spain,” said Ana Cabanas, market-ing director of the company.

to invest 80 mil-lion to 90 million euros, or $96 mil-

lion to $108 mil-lion, in new stores

and infrastructure this year after reining

back capital spending to 21 million euros, or $25 million,

Views of Desigual’s fl agship near the Paris Opera.

PHOT

OS B

Y DO

MIN

IQUE

MAI

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The ModCloth homepage.

Manel AdellManel Adell

WWD.COMWWD, THURSDAY, JULY 1, 201014

Retailers will be fortunate to generate those kinds of increases as they head into the last six months of the year. Economists and analysts expect consumers to remain conservative about their spending against a weak economic backdrop and growing uncertainty that reduced retail stocks 13 percent in May, leaving them down 6.2 per-cent so far this year.

“Spending and sales growth are probably going to moderate a bit; we think the fi rst quarter may well be the best quarter of the year in terms of spending growth,” said Scott Hoyt, senior director of consumer economics at Moody’s Economy.com, noting fi rst-quarter sales rose 2 percent from the fourth quarter.

“Growth’s going to be OK,” he said. “It’s not going to feel like a strong recovery. We’re going to be faced with 10 percent unemployment. We’re going to be faced with only modest job growth. Now we’re going to muddle through the rest of this year be-fore things really accelerate, probably by this time next year.”

The boost of government supports, such as the homebuyer tax credit and credits for energy-effi cient appliances, are also going to fade even as efforts to extend unem-ployment benefi ts appear to be heading toward a Congressional dead end.

Retailers are tentative heading into the second half as increasingly diffi cult com-parisons make it harder to hit third- and fourth-quarter numbers.

“Profi tability should be consistent because we don’t see a major increase in inventory,” said Jane Hali, vice president at The Doneger Group. “I would say minor increases, under 5 percent, going forward. And they’ve just put that into the classifi cations that are doing quite well — footwear and accessories. These are cat-egories with a lot of fashion, a lot of newness.”

Accessories are also an easy, and relatively cheap, way for the budget-conscious consumer to update her wardrobe.

Consultant Craig Johnson, president of Customer Growth Partners, said the second half would be “a mixed bag,” but that he was stick-ing to his forecast for annual sales growth of 4.6 percent, excluding automobiles and gasoline.

Johnson said back-to-school sales would rise as much as 5.5 percent, which he characterized as “relatively good” compared with “the worst back-to-school since World War II” in 2009.

The most immediate proxy for the perfor-mance of retailers — the stock market — has been more down than up lately, after a bull rush from the market’s recession bottom last year.

Continuing its recent downward trajectory, the S&P Retail Index slid 0.6 percent, or 2.46 points, to 385.82 Wednesday, the lowest close since November. The sector dropped 3.8 percent Tuesday on an unexpected retreat in The Conference Board’s Consumer Confi dence Index.

The Dow Jones Industrial Average fell 1 percent, or 96.28 points, to 9,774.02 Wednesday, building on the belly fl op that pushed blue-chip stocks below 10,000 Tuesday.

Stocks are a leading indicator, generally seen as predicting where the performance of companies and the economy will be in about six months. That’s one of the reasons retail issues rallied last year — investors were betting that stores would see a big rise in profi ts as cost cuts and inventory effi ciencies took hold and consumers recovered from the recession blahs.

Investors were correct, in part, and profi ts were up in the fourth quarter, but retail hasn’t been able to put together a second act built on sales growth.

Instead, investors got ahead of themselves in the fi rst four months of the year based on blowout March sales and then pulled back when April and May sales disappointed. The retail index, poised just below 500 on April 26, has lost nearly 23 percent of its value

since. While retailers’ numbers remain relatively good — especially in areas such as gross margin and inventories — stock market sentiment refl ects the uneven, even fearful mind-set of consumers as stores enter the back half of the year.

“The second half is going to be mushy,” said Paul Nolte, investment adviser and managing director with Dearborn Partners. “We see GDP around plus or minus 1 percent. We haven’t seen any real big changes in [consumer] pat-terns either. They’re continuing to pay down debt and be a little bit more cautious about spending and where they are spending. It’s what I call pocket change stuff.”

Much depends on the labor market. “The main driver going forward will be income with employ-ment starting to recover,” said IHS Global Insight economist Sara Johnson. “The expansion is broad-ening. I think we’ll see more spending from the middle-income groups rather than the high-end groups that benefi ted from the stock market gains last year.”

Following two years of declines, Johnson said real consumer spending would rise 2.5 per-

cent this year and close to 3 percent next year. The lower fi gure “is about the norm for the next few years, which is maybe disap-

pointing for a period of economic expansion, but there are some headwinds. We could see higher taxes taking a bite out of income [next year], particularly at the upper end of the spectrum.”

Retail might be plodding into the second half with no new sales story to tell, but some of the themes that started during the recession are continuing.

Steven Greenberg, founder and president of retail advisory The Greenberg Group Inc., said some retailers are selling less but are also paying less rent, and with other expense cuts have been able to generate better profi ts.

Some retailers are also expanding as their overextended cohorts pull back.“You’re going to see some more bankruptcies and you’re going to see some com-

panies have to shed stores to stay alive,” Greenberg predicted. “There’s a certain amount of attrition going on. As some stores close, there are several other retailers waiting in the wings. We’re busier than ever.”

Continued from page one

Financial For full daily stock changes and more fi nancial news, see WWD.com / business-news.

1.83 1.51 American Apparel (APP) 11.1 635105 1.83 +10.24

1.84 1.68 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 28059 1.84 +6.36

8.26 7.76 Sally Beauty (SBH) 12.0 2208355 8.20 +4.99

33.48 31.35 Citi Trends (CTRN) 18.7 362971 32.94 +4.97

2.79 2.69 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 16612 2.79 +4.49

1.23 1.17 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) - 2000 1.23 +4.23

2.39 2.19 New York & Co. (NWY) - 386104 2.29 +4.09

4.85 4.51 Hampshire (HAMP) - 5200 4.84 +4.09

24.06 22.97 HSN (HSNI) 15.3 1372570 24.00 +2.92

10.45 9.94 Talbots (TLB) - 3316265 10.31 +2.69

DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLUME AMT

HIGH LOW LAST %CHANGE

16.09 15.15 Brown Shoe (BWS) 25.6 715038 15.18 -5.83

3.99 3.49 Tandy Brands (TBAC) 14.6 15292 3.60 -5.01

0.79 0.75 Frederick’s of Hollywood (FOH) - 24025 0.75 -3.85

29.87 28.60 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 22.5 799367 28.65 -3.50

6.27 5.97 Glimcher (GRT) - 1155738 5.98 -3.39

3.50 3.33 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 2033305 3.36 -3.17

6.56 6.11 Christopher & Banks (CBK) - 380247 6.19 -3.13

14.66 14.56 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 57.8 3900 14.56 -3.13

24.03 23.16 PriceSmart (PSMT) 16.4 79284 23.23 -3.09

1.70 1.54 Zale (ZLC) - 1013297 1.58 -3.07

10 WORST PERFORMERS DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLUME AMT

HIGH LOW LAST %CHANGE

* Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros.

10 BEST PERFORMERS

FINANCIAL new

American Apparel shares were up 10.2 percent Wednesday, but are down 41 percent so far this year.

Retail Hopes Center on B-T-S, Holiday

STEPPING ON THE BRAKESThe S&P Retail Index, within a whisper of 500 just two months ago, closed Wednesday at 385.82. Here, a look at how its June

close compares with some recent milestones.

DATE VALUE CHANGE SINCE EVENT

May 28, 2010 443.45 -13.0% End of May

April 26, 2010 499.91 -22.8% 52-week high

Dec. 31, 2009 411.12 -6.2% End of 2009

July 7, 2009 303.81 27.0% 52-week low

June 30, 2009 322.55 19.6% One year ago

Nov. 21, 2008 207.49 85.9% All-time low

Feb. 20, 2007 538.5 -28.4% All-time high

SOURCE: YAHOO FINANCE. HIGH AND LOW FIGURES REPRESENT INTRADAY TRADING LEVELS. ALL OTHERS ARE CLOSING NUMBERS. HISTORIC FIGURES REFLECT ONLY ACTIVITY SINCE RECALIBRATION OF INDEX IN 2002.

WWD.COM15WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 1, 2010

FASHION SCOOPSMAKE SURE SHE PAYS AT THE REGISTER: Lindsay Lohan’s legal woes just won’t let up. The West Hollywood boutique Church filed a lawsuit in Los Angeles Superior Court Wednesday against the actress seeking payment of $16,880.83 for items that Lohan bought between November 2009 and February 2010. “When she came in the store, she told us to bill her business manager, which is not altogether uncommon for celebrities,” said co-owner David Malvaney, adding that an invoice was sent for the $17,060.83 bill but that only a payment of $180 was received. Among the items on Lohan’s shopping list were two pairs of Ron Donovan exotic-skin shoes, which retail between $800 and $2,000, and several Mortimer embellished vintage rock ’n’ roll T-shirts. Malvaney said he and business partner Rodney Burns, both former Maxfield staffers who opened Church in September 2009, have no hard feelings against the actress. “I actually like her, but we just need to get paid.”

UNLOVED LOTS: Two Alexander McQueen dresses from the autumn 2007 “Salem Witch” collection, the first items to go under the hammer since the designer’s death in February, failed to sell at auction in London this week. The sale took place at Bonhams’ auction house in Knightsbridge and featured a gold-sequined gown that carried an estimated price of 12,000 pounds to 18,000 pounds, or $17,939 to $26,905 at current exchange. A second dress, made of peacock feathers, carried an estimate of 10,000 pounds to 14,000 pounds, or $14,949 to $20,923. The Bonhams sale also featured 14 pieces of furniture from the legendary former Biba store on Kensington High Street, of which only half the lots sold. The top lot, a cellulose mannequin, sold for 1,680 pounds, or $2,510. A spokeswoman for Bonhams could not be reached for comment on the sale.

CHASING CHIC: What’s the suitable attire for a high-stakes chase that involves jumping over rooftops, flying on top of car hoods and climbing up chimneys? For Tom Cruise, the sartorial choice would be Giorgio Armani. In his newest action flick “Knight and Day,” his secret-agent character Roy Miller sports a navy pin-striped Giorgio Armani made-to-measure

suit on the run in Salzburg, Austria. Armani’s creation proves to be quite durable. It remains chic through the end of the scene, when Cruise’s secret-agent character plunges into a freezing river.

YOUNG AT HEART: There are no fashions too small for Silvia Venturini Fendi. The designer is overseeing the Roman house’s latest venture: an upscale kids’ collection in partnership with

Italy’s Simonetta SpA. The collection, for newborns to boys and girls up to age 12, was unveiled at Pitti Immagine Bimbo in Florence. The made-in-Italy line for little girls boasts soft and pale colors, floral prints, small checks and a bucolic inspiration, according to Venturini Fendi. Simonetta also produces young lines for Roberto Cavalli and Fay.

SAIL AWAY: Yves Carcelle has been decorated as an honorary member of the New Zealand Order of Merit. The chairman and chief executive officer of Louis Vuitton was recognized during a ceremony in Paris for his services to international sailing and New Zealand, notably for organizing Vuitton-branded regattas in Auckland the past two years. Carcelle is only the third French citizen to receive the distinction.

MELLO RECOVERING: Dawn Mello underwent a second operation last month to repair a shattered femur. She was hit by a bicycle rider last October, who took off without helping her. “I’m feeling physically okay, but to be confined to a walker is difficult,” she said Tuesday. “I missed the European collections, but step by step I will get over this.” Fall or the end of the summer is her goal.

Harrison Honored by UJA

Armani’s sketch for Tom Cruise in “Knight and Day.” PH

OTO

BY S

TEVE

EIC

HNER

Shelley and Gilbert Harrison

More pictures at WWD.com.

Looks from

Fendi’s new line for girls.

Yves Carcelle

By David Moin

NEW YORK — Financo Inc. chairman Gilbert Harrison received the UJA Fashion Division’s Achievement Award last week during a benefit at the Mandarin Hotel here that raised more than $350,000.

“This is an organization that I have support-ed for many years, and I believe that the work they do in New York, Israel and on a global basis is extremely important,” Harrison told about 200 of his colleagues, friends and family.

The evening was marked by words of affec-tion from three of Harrison’s five grandchil-dren, some good-natured roasting by invest-ment banker Peter J. Solomon and remarks on Israel by Asaf Shariv, that country’s consul general in New York.

Among those who attended were: Michael Gould, Joe Gromek, Oscar and George Feldenkreis, Seymour Holtzman, Paul Blum, Abbey Doneger, Jim Williams, Jeff Bloomberg, Susan Sokol, Denise Seegal, Jill Granoff, David Levin, John Pomerantz, Mort Schrader, Joan and Robert Siegel, Bob Skinner, Jane Weitzman, Elie Tahari, and Bill Mack of AREA Property Partners and NRDC, who presented the award to Harrison.

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These days, iT seems like everyone and Their moTher has become The subjecT of a documentary film: valentino, joan rivers, anna Wintour, vidal sassoon, bill cunningham and soon diana vreeland , to name a few. but, with her new project, first-time filmmaker angela ismailos has tapped into a pool that has so far evaded the cameras — the very people behind them.

“Great directors,” which hits theaters in limited release friday, features 10 distinguished directors, including david lynch (“mulholland dr.”), stephen frears (“dangerous liaisons”), richard linklater (“dazed and confused”) and agnès varda (“cleo from 5 to 7”) speaking candidly with ismailos about their craft. (clips from their work are interspersed throughout to provide context.) highlights include lynch recalling how he scored his gig directing “The elephant man” because producer mel brooks believed him to be “a madman,” and frears describing his experience as a precocious young cameraman in the sixties at the bbc, where network execs “sort of wanted [me] to misbehave.”

“These directors tried to destabilize the norm and the formalities of what cinema should be,” says ismailos, 42. “They did exactly the kind of films they wanted to do.”

The same could be said of ismailos, who conceived of the idea for this project five years ago while doing research for what she was planning would be her first film, a feature called “The city of a dead Woman.” “i had so much information and archival work that i’d been collecting for years,” she says. “i had this idea and was very passionate about it.”

but not every idea for a film comes to fruition. fortunately for ismailos, she had a few advantages over other ambitious artists. born and raised in athens to shipping magnate father and arts patron mother, she grew up attending the opera and ballet and watching independent films. “i was always exposed to the arts,” she recalls. after earning a law degree from the university of athens, ismailos moved to new york, where she indulged her creative side full-time, taking acting classes at juilliard and studying cinematography at the new york film academy. in 2004, she independently founded her own production company, anisma films, which she runs out of the tony Park avenue apartment she shares with her husband — also in the shipping industry — and their teenage daughter. (her original intent was to use it to fund “The city of a dead Woman.”)

for all her financial and social assets, ismailos faced challenges during production, including convincing a camera-shy lynch to sign on board. after several carefully composed letters explaining her vision for the project, she eventually won the director over. “i have no idea how i did it,” she says.

landing a distributor proved a bit easier. Paladin picked up the film, without any reservation from owner mark urman regarding ismailos’ lack of professional experience behind the camera. “of the several academy award-nominated documentaries i’ve worked on [including ‘spellbound,’ ‘murderball’ and ‘born into brothels’], most of those were first-time filmmakers,” says urman. “That’s the least interesting thing you could tell me about angela.”

There was certainly no question about ismailos’ ability to promote the doc. This spring, after “Great directors” was screened during the cannes film festival, ismailos hosted a party aboard her sleek 164-foot yacht, barracuda. There are also fetes for the flick in new york — once earlier this month at moma for a crowd including fran lebowitz and chuck close and again this weekend in the hamptons, where steven klein and jay mcinerney are expected.

This may be ismailos’ first foray into filmmaking, but it certainly isn’t her last. up next, she is planning to finally get around to directing and starring in “The city of a dead Woman,” a story about a woman’s complicated relationship with her priest. as ismailos sees it, she’s a pro by now. “When the camera starts rolling, that’s when you’ve become a filmmaker.”

—AmandaFitzSimons

WWD.COM16 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 1, 2010

While her Argentine husband oversees their Independence Day party feast, Nina Griscom hits up the flower district for all manner of fresh decor.

Here, some of her favorite vendors and a recipe for her summer gazpacho.

on The fourTh of july, my husband leonel Piraino (Who hails from buenos aires) and i like to do a barbecue for family and friends at our home in millbrook, n.y., with an argentine tweak — meaning an asado (a traditional argentine barbeque) in place of american hot dogs and hamburgers. We make homemade empanadas (my mother-in-law’s recipe), with different fillings of beef, pork and chicken, to be passed around at cocktails in linen-covered baskets; gazpacho for a first course; followed by flank steaks, sweet breads, baby lamb chops, sweet and hot italian sausages and the odd breast of

chicken, accompanied by our chimichurri sauce. and then there are grilled vegetables: red and yellow peppers, eggplant and corn. everything is cooked to come out in perfectly timed stages. argentines like to eat slowly!

a few days before our party, i head down to the flower district of new york, on West 28th street between sixth and seventh avenues, to buy fresh blooms and decorative

items for my tables. i love to use fresh-cut sunflowers and a range of potted herbs in varying heights. The combination creates a rustic, natural effect.

i go to jamali Garden supplies for all the decorative containers for the sunflowers as well as fun straw table runners and copper lanterns. They have every conceivable product for any party…ribbons, feathers, candles, votive containers, glue guns, etc.

next i bring the containers i bought there to fischer and Page, where i buy my sunflowers. They trim them and put them in the vases for me to take home, ready to go. i also make sure to pick up topiary rosemary plants, which i have mossed and potted in clay pots. These make great gifts for our guests to take home after dinner. and i always call one day ahead to order mini potted olive trees, which

add another dimension to the overall effect. Those i keep in our garden long after the asado is over.

director’s cut

“I was always exposed to the arts.” — ANGELA ISMAILOS

Social call

8 ripe plum tomatoes2 red onions2 cucumbers2 cloves of garlic4 red bell peppers1 Tbsp. of maldon salt (or sea salt)1 Tbsp. of freshly ground black pepper1/4 cup of fine white-wine vinegar 6 cups of fresh tomato juicezest of 2 lemons8 basil leaves, chopped or whole1/4 cup of olive oil

boil the tomatoes for 2 minutes and remove their skins. cut into quarters. Peel and dice the onions, cucumbers and garlic. remove the stems of the peppers,

seed them and chop peppers into rough pieces. finely puree the tomatoes, onions and cucumbers, and add salt, pepper, olive oil and vinegar. This can be done in batches. Transfer the puree to a large bowl and add the tomato juice. stir thoroughly. Garnish with lemon zest and basil leaves. cover and refrigerate for 2 hours. it’s even better the second day!

NiNa’S Gazpacho

Jamali Garden Supplies149 West 28th Street212-244-4025

Fischer and Page150 West 28th Street212-645-4106

Griscom’s potted rosemary.

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we mean business. · tomatt — tomas maier, bottega veneta creative director. page 11. wwdthursday...

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