Formulation, Development and Evaluation of Instant Whitening Face Wash

Dnyaneshwar S. Solanki, Prof .Suraj Dattatray Sagrule, Shrikrushna Subhash Unhale, Quazi Bilal Ansar, Prof. Dr. K. R. Biyani

Anuradha college of Pharmacy, Chikhli, Dist. Buldana (MS) India 443201

Author * dnyaneshrajput74@gmail.com

ABSTRACT

The objective of this work is to formulate and evaluate a cosmetic Instant Whitening Face

Wash by using natural ingredient. Since the ancient times, there has been awareness among

people regarding the use of plants for the essential needs of a healthy and beautiful skin.

Cosmetics are the products used to clean, beautify and promote attractive appearance.

Cosmetics designed via incorporating natural sources such as herbs have been proven very

fulfilling, in coping up with the present needs of different skin types.

Skin whitening herbs is the practice of using substances, mixtures or physical treatments to

lighten skin colour. Skin whitening treatments work by reducing the content of melanin of the

skin. Many agents have been shown to be effective in skin whitening. Herbs are able to

modulate the metabolism of pigmentation for colour of human skin and play a crucial protective

role in skin whiteness, whereas antioxidants active in the oxidative stress of skin aging cells

may support skin health. Instant whitening face wash AF4 which was formulated showed a

good rheological characteristics pH, spreadability, stickiness, homogeneity, greater active

content. Hence, this study showed that F4 was the best formulation for instant whitening face

wash.

The present research has resemblance to a skin whitening cosmetic composition containing

Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract.

The instant whitening face wash can be applied to skin, this face wash found to be very

effective. According to In-Vivo study, the product has no skin irritation after application on the

skin.

Keywords: Face Wash, Instant Whitening Face Wash, Evodia rutaecarpa, Melanin

Pigmentation, Antioxidants etc.

INTRODUCTION

Face wash is the products which are used to cleanse face without drying it out. Face wash is

also commonly known as “cleanser”. Face wash product found to be equally good for all skin

type. Face wash is very helpful in removing dirt, oil and provide moisture to the dry skin. Both

face washes & cleansers are used to rid your face of dirt, oil, pollution etc. A cleanser dissolves

away excess oil makeup and grime from your face. These are oil soluble impurities. They can

be removed by a face wash too, but that might be not 100% effective. Facial skin is the delicate

and ordinary soaps can cause it to lose moisture. A face wash is a mild cleanser that does the

vital job of keeping skin clean, germ free smooth and fresh and moisturizes the horny layer

without any harshness to the skin. So that skin look young and energetic. The purpose of face

wash may be to impart cleansing, anti-wrinkle effect, anti-acne property, moisturizing effect

and fairness of skin. Skin whitening agents are believed to act on the production and

metabolism of melanin of the skin by inhibiting melanin production in melanocytes, reducing

extent of melanin. The agent which inhibit melanin production, such as propanediol, Evodia

rutaecarpa fruit extract, arbutin, kojic acid, vitamin C and its derivatives are used in the

whitening cosmetic because of their low toxicity to melanocytes.

Forms of face wash

1. Cream based face wash

2. Gel based face wash

3. Liquid based face wash

4. Face wash in powder form

Types of face wash

Generally a face wash suits all skin types however now a day different products are available in

market that are formulated to suits different skin types for example: an oily skin face wash is

made for people have oily skin conditions and does not contains oils and leaves a thin oily film

on the skin. These different types of face washes available in the market include:

1. Oily skin face wash

2. Dry skin face wash

3. Normal skin face wash

Feature of face wash

1. Removing the dead cells.

2. Rejuvenating the skin cells elevate stress.

3. Removes oil, dirt and impurities.

4. Reduces microbial flora of skin

5. Leave skin fresh and breathing.

Gel based face wash gel

A gel is a solid jelly like material that can have properties ranging from soft and weak to hard

and tough. Gels are defined as a substantially dilute cross-linked system, which exhibits no flow

when in the steady-state. By weight, gels are mostly liquid, yet they behave like solids due to a

three-dimensional cross-linked network within the liquid. It is the cross linking within the fluid

that gives a gel its structure (hardness) and contributes to the adhesive stick (tack). In this way

gels are a dispersion of molecules of a liquid within a solid in which the solid is the continuous

phase and the liquid is the discontinuous phase. The word gel was coined by 19th century

Scottish chemist Thomas Graham by clipping from gelatin.

Skin whitening herbs:

Skin whitening herbs is the practice of using substances, mixtures or physical treatments to

lighten skin colour. Skin whitening treatments work by reducing the content of melanin of the

skin. Many agents have been shown to be effective in skin whitening; some have the beneficial

effects (e.g. antioxidants, nutrients) & some are a significant risk to health (for example, those

containing mercury).

The search for natural active compounds from natural herbal medicines or Traditional Chinese

Medicines (TCMs) provides an interesting, largely unexplored area for development of new

skin-care cosmetics such as natural whitening agents like melanin biosynthesis or tyrosinase

inhibitors, which are able to modulate the metabolism of pigmentation for colour of the human

Skin and it play a crucial protective role in skin whiteness, whereas antioxidants active in the

oxidative stress of skin aging cells may support skin health. Melanin, which is biosynthesized

by melanocyte cells in the basal layer of the epidermis, may be over produced with chronic sun

exposure, melasma or other hyper pigmentation diseases. Therefore, whitening agents reduce

melanin over production like hyper pigmentation of darkened age spots, whereas pigmenting

agents such as melanin are designed to increase pigmentation for sun protection. However, the

inhibition of melanin biosynthesis has already been described by avoiding ultraviolet (UV)

exposure, inhibiting melanocyte metabolism and proliferation inhibiting tyrosinase activity or

removing melanin with corneal ablation. Tyrosinase is known to be the key enzyme in the

anabolism of melanin biosynthesis in melanocytes catalyzing the initial two steps of this

pathway, including hydroxylation of tyrosine (one of monophenolic compounds) to L-dopa (L-

3,4-dihydroxyphenylalane; one of o-diphenols) and oxidation of L-dopa to o-dopaquinone (one

of o-quinones). These o-quinones are then transformed into melanin in a series of non-

enzymatic reactions. Therefore, tyrosinase inhibitors are important constituents of cosmetics

and skin whitening agents and tyrosinase becomes the key target enzyme for screening and

discovery of new inhibitory compounds. This is why a constant search for tyrosinase inhibitors

obtained by extraction from natural plants or TCMs is underway in the hope of preventing the

occurrence of this melanin over productions or hyper pigmentation disorders. The highly

reactive intermediate produced by dopa oxidation and the reactive oxygen species (ROS) and

other free radicals induced by oxidative stress in skin cells or by UV radiation exposure have

been presented to be inappropriately processed in enhancing melanin biosynthesis, damaging

DNA, probably inducing proliferation of melanocytes. The free radicals or ROS scavengers

such as antioxidants may be known to reduce hyper pigmentation. Although the plant-derived

anti-oxidants scavenge free-radicals it is assumed that their nature and concentration vary

among different kinds of plants.

However, 1, 1-diphenyl- 2 picryl hydrazyl (DPPH) is a stable radical and the DPPH free

radical-scavenging assay is a simple and widely popular method for screening free radical-

scavenging ability of compounds or antioxidant activity of plant extracts.

Uses of ingredients:

As of increasing focus on skin appearance, many cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies are

focusing on research that will alter skin pigmentation. There are today many known substances

that can reduce the level of pigmentation in the skin. Many of these actives have a tyrosinase-

inhibiting effect leading to reduced total melanin production. Some of the tyrosinase inhibitors

used today is for example, kojic acid, arbutin, Evodia rutaecarpa and different kinds of vegetal

or herb extracts.

There are also molecules known to have an effect on the transfer of melanin from melanocytes

to keratinocytes, leading to an overall lighter skin colour such as nicotinamide and soybean.

Substances that increase the desquamation of the skin are also commonly used to remove

excessive melanin content within the skin, for instance retinoic acid.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

MATERIALS

The instant whitening face wash was prepared using following chemicals, apparatus and

instruments.

Chemicals

Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract; was purchased from BioRecurso, Parwanoo, Himachal

Predesh.

Acrypol ET- 1; was purchased from Lubrizol Ltd. Mumbai.

DmDmhydaintoin; was purchased from Subhash Chemicals, Vapi.

Triethanol amine, glycerine, ethylene di-amino acetic acid, distilled water and perfume is

available in the laboratories of college.

Apparatus

Apparatus such as beaker, glass slide, measuring cylinder, test tube, mortar pestle, volumetric

flask and sonicator apparatus are available in the laboratories of college.

Instruments

Equipments such as pH meter, mechanical stirrer, Broke field viscometer (LV viscometer),

beaker, thermometer, funnel and sonicator are available in the laboratories of college.

METHODS

Preparation of face wash base

Various formulations of batches were prepared according to the Table 1. The desired

concentration of EDTA were weighed accurately and dispersed in hot purified water (not more

than 60˚C; 50 % weight of the batch size) containing desired quantity of glycerine with

moderate stirring, then add desired quantity of Aqua SF-1 and dissolved in remaining amount

of water (50% of batch size) then, primary surfactant (Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate) was added.

Then, secondary surfactant (cocamidopropyl betaine) was added, then sodium metabisulfite

was added, then neutralizer Triethanolamine was added, then Preservative (Euxyl K120) was

added. This was finally mixed in formulation. Perfume was added in sufficient quantity in all

the formulations. Prepared formulations were filled in a suitable container and labelled

accordingly. These preparations were further evaluated.

Table 1: Preparation of face wash base

Phase ContentsBase Formulation (BF)

BF1 BF2 BF3 BF4

A

Water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100Aqua SF-1 (ml) 10 10 10 10

EDTA (gm) 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1Glycerine (ml) 5 5 5 5

BEuxyl K120 (ml) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

TEA (ml) 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5

C

Sodium Metabisulfite (gm) 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2SLES (ml) 16 17.5 19 20

Perfume 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

D CAPB (ml) 5 5.5 5.8 6

E Citric Acid q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

Procedure:

1. Take Phase A material and mixed them until light clear solution form.

2. Take Phase B material and mixed into phase A and mix into the product up to 20 min.

3. Add Phase C material into phase A & B and mix the batch up to 20 min.

4. Add Phase D material and mixed into phase A, B and C slowly and allowed to mix batch for

30 min.

5. Then phase E material was taken and mixed into the phase A, B, C & D and transferred into

suitable container and labeled. These preparations were further optimize and face wash base

selected.

Preparation of face wash with an active

Various formulations of batches were prepared according to the Table 2. The desired

concentration of gelling agent were weighed accurately and dispersed in hot purified water (not

more than 60˚C; 50 % weight of the batch size) containing desired quantity of EDTA with

moderate stirring, avoiding air entrapment and allowed. Desired quantity of glycerine was

dissolved in remaining amount of water (50% of batch size) by gentle heating. Desired quantity

of sodium lauryl ether sulfate was added and then secondary surfactant (cocamidopropyl

betaine) was added then sodium metabisufite was added, then triethanolamine was added, then

active ingredient i.e. Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract was added to the above mixture. This was

finally mixed with previously soaked gel formulation. Perfume was added in sufficient quantity

in all the formulations. Prepared formulations were filled in a suitable container and labelled

accordingly. These preparations were further evaluated.

Table 2: Preparation of face wash with an active

Phase ContentsActive Formulation (AF)

AF1 AF2 AF3 AF4 AF4 AF4

A Water Up to Up to Up to Up to Up to Up to

100 100 100 100 100 100Aqua SF-1 (ml) 10 10 10 10 10 10

EDTA (gm) 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1

Glycerine (ml) 5 5 5 5 5 5

BEvodia rutaecarpa (ml) 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15Euxyl K120 (ml) 0.15 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.55TEA (ml) 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5

C

Sodium metabisulfite (gm) 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2SLES (ml) 20 20 20 20 20 20Perfume 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

D CAPB (ml) 6 6 6 6 6 6

E Citric Acid q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

Procedure:

1) Take Phase A material containing Aqua and Carbopol aqua SF-1, EDTA, Glycerine and

mixed them until light clear solution form.

2) Phase B material containing euxyl K120 and TEA were added and mixed into Phase A.

Allow to mix into the product up to 20 min.

3) Add Phase C material containing sodium metabisulfite solution into Phase A and B and

mixed the batch up to 20 min.

4) Add Phase D material containing CAPB into Phase A, B and C slowly and allow to mixed

batch for 30 min.

5) Then Add phase E material into phase A, B, C and D and transfer into suitable container.

EVALUATION

The prepared formulation were undergo through the In-Vitro evaluation and In-Vivo

Evaluation.

In-vitro evaluation

a) Rheological Characteristics

Rheological characteristics were studied for colour, clogging, sudden viscosity change and feel

properties.

b) Determination of pH

The PH of formulations was determined using digital pH meter. One gram of face wash was

dissolved in 100 ml of demineralised water and stored for two hours. The measurements of pH

of each formulation were done in triplicate. Instrument was calibrated before use with standard

buffer solutions at pH 4, 7 and 9.

c) Determination of Viscosity

100 gm of each of formulation was weighed and transferred to beaker. The help of Brook field

viscometer (LV viscometer), spindle no 3 at 10 rpm for 5 min. Before measurement declaration

of face wash was done and the face wash was filled in appropriate viscosity of formulations

were determined with the Wide mouth container. Samples of the face wash were allowed to

settle over 30 min at the assay temperature (25 ±1˚C) before the measurements. Viscosity of

formulation was determined using the formula.

Viscosity (cp) = Dial Reading × Factor

d) Spreadability determination of formulations

Spreadability of formulations was determined by an apparatus suggested by Multimer et al.

which was fabricated in laboratory & used for study. The apparatus consists of a wooden block,

with a fixed glass slide with one end tied to weight pan rolled on the pulley which was in

horizontal level with fixed slide. An excess of whitening face wash sample 1.5 gm was placed

between two glass slide and a 1000 gm weight was placed on slide for 5 minutes to between

compress the sample to uniform thickness weight (60gm) was added to the pan. It was

calculated using the formula:

S = ml /t

Where,

s = spreadability in gm.cm/sec

m= weight tied to upper slide

l= length of glass slide

t= time in seconds

Length of glass slide was 11.2 cm and weight tied to upper slide was (60gm) throughout the

experiment.

e) Washability

The product was applied on hand and was observed under running water. .

f) Stability study

The instant whitening face wash were also subjected to the following condition of temperature

and relative humidity during stability studies for 3 weeks at room temperature.

g) Accelerated Stability Studies

The Face wash gel formulation was subjected to stability testing for 2 months as per ICH

Guidelines at a temperature of 40oC ± 2oC and RH 75%. The Gel formulation was analysed for

the change in appearance, pH and phytochemicals.

h) Active Drug Content

The amount of drug content was determined by taking 10 gm of containing which is equivalent

to 10 mg was added in 50 ml volumetric flask containing ethanol and mixed it well with

shaking or inverting the volumetric flask for two to three times 0.1 ml. of this solution was

diluted with 25ml fresh ethanol and active content was determined using UV

spectrophotometer at 270 nm.

In vivo evaluation

a) Skin irritation test [19]

The skin irritation was carried out on human volunteers. For formulated face wash, volunteer

were selected and 1.0 g of formulated face wash was applied on an area of two square inch to

the back of the hand. The volunteers were observed for lesions or irritation.

b) Photographic evaluation human

This was carried out on volunteer. Whitening face wash was applied on skin. The photographs

were taken before and after application of the product.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Stability study of face wash base

Various base formulation batches were prepared according to the formula and these

formulations were evaluated by different tests. Based on the results best formulation was

selected for final active formulation.

Table 3: Stability study of face wash base

Rheological characteristics

Formulation Color Consistency ViscosityWashabilit

ypH Spreadability

After 1 week at room temperature

BF1 Transparent Semisolid NC Good 6.20 5.601

BF2 Transparent Semisolid NC Good 6.40 5.401

BF3 Transparent Semisolid NC Good 6.30 5.908

BF4 Transparent Semisolid NC Good 6.50 5.410

After 2 week at room temperature

BF1 Transparent Semisolid C Good 6.80 3.501

BF2 Transparent Liquid NC Good 6.40 5.389

BF3 Transparent Semisolid C Good 6.85 3.501

BF4 Transparent Semisolid NC Good 6.50 5.409

After 3 week at room temperature

BF1 Transparent Semisolid C Good 6.10 2.501

BF2 Transparent Liquid C Good 6.45 3.380

BF3 Transparent Semisolid C Good 6.40 3.309

BF4 Transparent Semisolid NC Good 6.50 5.408

Rheological characteristics and pH of formulation BF1 & BF2 and BF3 was found to be sudden

changes and shows spreadability and viscosity changes. These were due to high or low

concentration of gelling agent, hence these formulations were rejected and formulation BF4 was

selected for active face wash formulation.

Evaluation of Instant Whitening Face Wash

Various formulation batches of instant whitening face wash were prepared and these

formulations were evaluated by different tests. Based on the results best formulation was

selected as final formulation.

a) Rheological Characteristics

These tests include parameters such as colour, clogging, sudden viscosity change, feel.

Table 4: Rheological characteristics of instant whitening face wash

Formulation Color Sudden Viscosity change Washability Spreadability

AF1 Transparent C Good 5.601AF2 Transparent NC Good 5.401AF3 Transparent NC Good 4.908AF4 Transparent NC Good 5.410

AF5 Transparent C Good 5.409

AF6 Transparent C Good 5.405

F- Formulation, NC- No Change, C- Change.

Rheological characteristics of formulation AF1 found colour change. AF5 and AF6 was found

to be tacky feel and shows clogging. These was due to high concentration of gelling agent,

hence these formulation was rejected for further study.

b) Determination of pH

pH tests were performed for skin lightening gel and the results were seen as given in

Table 5: Determination of pH

Parameters pH

AF2 6.2

AF3 6.3

AF4 6.5

pH of all formulations were in proper range. These formulations were used for further study.

c) Determination of Viscosity

Viscosity studies were performed for Instant Whitening Face Wash and the results were seen as

given.

Table 6: Determination of Viscosity

Speed Factor

Spindle No. 1 Spindle No. 2 Spindle No. 3 Spindle No. 4

0.3 200 1M 4M 20M

0.6 100 500 2M 10M

1.5 40 200 800 4M

3 20 100 400 2M

6 10 50 200 1M

12 5 25 100 500

30 2 10 40 200

60 1 5 20 100

Table 7: Determination of Viscosity

Parameters Viscosity (cp)

AF2 15200

AF3 24100

AF4 25320

Viscosity of formulations were in proper range except formulation AF2 which was found to

have low viscosity due to low concentration of gelling agent, hence was rejected for further

study.

d) Determination of Spreadability and Active Drug Content

Spreadability and Active Drug Content study were performed for instant whitening face wash

and the results were seen as given in following.

Table 8: Spreadability and Active Drug Content Determination

Parameters Spreadability Active Drug Content (%)

AF3 5.36 ± 0.80 92.93 ± 0.50

AF4 5.40 ± 1.35 94.42 0.90

e) Stability Study

Table 9: Stability study determination of instant whitening face wash

Formulation Color Viscosity pH Viscosity

AF3 Transparent NC 6.40 24100

AF4 Transparent NC 6.50 25320

AF3 Transparent NC 6.20 24000

AF4 Transparent NC 6.45 25250

AF3 Transparent C 6.00 23921

AF4 Transparent NC 6.40 25100

NC- No change, C- change

During stability study AF3 was more change in PH than AF4 during stability study for 3 weeks,

hence AF3 formulation was rejected for further study.

In-Vivo Evaluation

a) Skin irritation study

Studies were performed for skin lightening face wash and the results were seen as given in table.

Table 10: Skin irritation study of instant whitening face wash

Parameters Skin irritation test

AF3 No Irritation

AF4 No Irritation

b) Photographic evaluation

Initial day After 8 days

After 15 days

After 21 days After 30 days

Fig 1: Photographic evaluation of instant whitening face wash

In this photographic evaluation before and after application of instant whitening face wash was

shown. These photographs indicate before application skin were not in proper texture and after

application skin were in proper texture and shows lightening effect.

CONCLUSION

Instant whitening face wash AF4 which was formulated showed a good rheological

characteristics pH, spreadability, stickiness, homogeneity, greater active content. Hence, this

study showed that F4 was the best formulation for instant whitening face wash.

The instant whitening face wash concluded that it can be applied to skin, this face wash found

to be very effective, According to In-Vivo study, the product has no skin irritation after

application on skin.

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