Pipeline’s Rowdy Dudey at 13 months with Sportscaster Leah HextallDewey was born May 28, 2005

FORWARD

The following information booklet has been compiled for the Newfoundland Dog Breeders of Saskatchewan as listed in the back of the booklet.

Inclusion in this listing is NOT an endorsement by the club, nor does the word Registered behind any kennel name imply any kind of certification or approval of the club. It simply means that they have exclusive rights to the use of that particular kennel name.

When visiting breeders, please do so by appointment. These are homes, not stores. Once there, use your own good judgement to evaluate the breeder. Always remember that a puppy is a major purchase, very different from furniture or appliances, because it is a living, breathing creature, totally dependent on you.

Make your choice wisely, not on impulse.

Revised May 7, 1996 Cindy L. WilliamsIntroduction

The Newfoundland dog. The gentle giant that will steal your heart as a furry ball of fluff and then unquestionably devote his body and soul to being your best friend until his last breath is drawn. Although there seems to be some uncertainty as to the origins of the Newf, it is interesting to note that he is one of the few breeds indigenous to the North American continent. Some experts feel that his ancestors were the large black bear dogs of Norway, which were brought over by the Vikings around 1000 AD and left here to propagate in the wilds. Others believe he is descended from the Tibetan Mastiff, which somehow migrated here from Asia. These are but two of several theories, and until more facts are known, it will be up to the individual fancier which theory to adopt. Regardless of his origins, there is no denying the impressiveness of his credentials. He is a working dog, and as such, he has in the past been required to put in a good days work to earn his keep. Guard dog, draught animal, lifeguard, and retriever are some of the trades which he has mastered. He was bred to do hard work, and even today, it can be seen that he loves it. He is equally at ease in the modern day home setting. A properly trained and well socialised Newfoundland will patiently bear the pokes and prods of the family toddlers, his only retaliation being the occasional loving slurp to the young one's face. The adult Newf seems to be in complete control of the tremendous power which he possesses, and can gauge his play from passive tolerance with the very young child to gentle rough-housing with the older one. While he does handle the human treasures of the household with great care, he has little regard for fine china and ornaments, and with one swoop of his perpetually wagging tail can clean an entire room of such knick knacks. This is, however, a small price to pay for the unending devotion which the dog will give.

LIFE WITH A NEWFLIFE WITH A NEWF

Being owned by a Newf has its joys and tribulations. Most pups are purchased at about 10 weeks, a loving, willing to learn bundle of puppy fur, with sharp little teeth and a tendency to get lonely and cry at night. Newf pups are easy to train, and if you are consistent, housebreaking can be almost perfected by the time the pup is three months old. Newfs love to play with people, and often show a special liking for children if they have had the opportunity of being around them. However, during the puppy stage, which seems to last about 2 years, they tend to grow very quickly and their size often frightens small children, especially when the child has their face given a bath with one lick, their mittens pulled of "just for fun", or they are knocked over by the excited puppy. Even dogs that have never been exposed to children can be taught very quickly to like them if given a chance. Regardless of where you live, it is necessary to keep your dog on a leash or in a fenced area (NEVER chained!) for its own protection from traffic. Newfoundlands are not very road wise, always thinking that the next car coming may be filled with friends of theirs! Besides, your neighbours will not appreciate it if your Newfoundland shows up in their yard all the time. The decision as to whether your dog is to be a house pet or not should be made early in the dog's life, and routines established for sleeping and family fun. They enjoy spending time outdoors, but can adjust and be quite happy in either environment, provided adequate shelter is provided outdoors, and adequate exercise if they live indoors. They require a great deal of human contact – they do not do well living alone in the backyard. As for exercise, contrary to popular belief, "once around the block" is not really adequate exercise for this dog, he needs to run and stretch and enjoy being a dog. By ensuring adequate exercise, you may also avoid many of the "big dog" problems - proper muscular development is needed to keep this dog together. So while nobody would recommend forced exercise for a young puppy, romping and running at will is an excellent idea. The joys of being owned by a Newf are many, but number one is that they make wonderful pets and are devoted companions, especially for children. They are not given to biting behaviour, but will nudge or grab and pull firmly but gently, and many of them will stay with children and protect them, especially near water. Many

adult dogs instinctively go where there is splashing and will pull adults and children to shore. Because of this trait, they have been used in Newfoundland for lifesaving, pulling in life lines, and for hauling fishnets. If, in fact, you are planning to take your dog swimming with you, you would be well advised to start while the dog is young and teach it that you do not ALWAYS need to be rescued, because they can be very insistent about towing swimmers to shore. A dog, however, is never to be considered a substitute for supervision of children. Every breed has its negative aspects, and the Newfoundland is no exception. He is a more expensive dog to purchase, and to maintain, because he requires more food, more space, and more medication if he gets sick. He will need more exercise than a smaller breed, and, of course, more grooming by virtue of his size and heavy coat. Most Newfoundlands love to paddle in their water pails, and many of them will drool in hot weather. They are happiest with muddy paws, which they frequently offer for a "shake". They shed - a lot. There is no substitute for comprehensive training for a breed of this size. If untrained, a Newfoundland is quite capable of eating anything he finds on the cupboards, and having all of the behaviour problems of any other breed of dog. One must remember that what would be an annoying habit in a small breed of dog is going to be a major problem if that dog is over 100 lbs . A beagle or poodle that insists on dragging its owner down the street every time it is put on leash is a nuisance to take for a walk, but a Newfoundland that is doing the same thing is probably going to be left at home a lot! Fortunately, their natural intelligence and genuine "willing to learn" attitude makes training fairly easy in most cases. Basic temperament aside, a new owner is going to have to ensure that the puppy is properly trained and socialised. Dogs that have been exposed to a variety of different people and situations and lived as a part of a normal family rarely have socialisation difficulties, but it is always a good idea to introduce them to new things, sights and sounds and allow him to gain confidence in their surroundings. The nature of the dog is gentle, but any dog, regardless of the breed, needs guidance to develop into a good citizen and have good manners. If the breed stereotype has given you the idea that they do not need training and are just naturally wonderful - think twice. EVERY dog, whether it is one pound or 140 lbs., needs training. Almost any person who owns a Newfoundland will tell you that they found the training fairly easy, but that they DID train. A well behaved Newfoundland is an absolute joy to possess, an untrained one is as much trouble as any other untrained dog. Your breeder will be able to help you in selecting training methods for your new puppy or dog.

TRAINING THE NEWFOUNDLANDTRAINING THE NEWFOUNDLAND Most breeders would be in total agreement on one thing - harsh, military obedience methods are not only unnecessary with this breed, they can be almost cruel. Newfoundlands are by nature very responsive - it is far easier to channel their behaviour by rewarding them when they are good than by punishing them for being bad. You must at all times remember that you cannot get on the dogs case for making mistakes until you are certain that the dog understands that he behaved inappropriately. Ensure before enrolling in any training class that it is reward oriented, rather than punishment oriented. Many breeders will have training information readily available; some will even be able to steer you onto a good training class. A word of warning, however. Despite the popularity of so called "puppy kindergarten classes", you must keep in mind that to take a puppy out before its immune status is established (usually 20 or 21 weeks) is to take a calculated risk on contracting contagious diseases. You would be wise to consult your breeder for their opinion, and consult your veterinarian on immune status before embarking on classes.

ON BUYING A NEWF

It is important to realise that buying a Newf is not going to be like taking a trip to the supermarket one day and selecting something. Breeders are often very selective with respect to where and with whom they place their pups - as well they should be. Do not be at all surprised if you are asked a battery of questions about your accommodations, lifestyle, etc. Do not take it personally, everyone gets the same treatment.

Furthermore, good breeders often have waiting lists of interested buyers. It is, however, not a bad thing to have to wait a few weeks or months to get the right puppy. The waiting period will give you time to think about the responsibility you are taking on, and whether or not a Newfoundland is really right for you. When you are asked to consider the responsibility of owning a giant breed, it should not be taken lightly. Despite the care and caution of reputable breeders in choosing homes for their pups, there is always an abundance of older dogs that are unwanted at a later date. Therefore, there are rescue programs underway all over the country to try to help place such animals in loving homes. As a buyer, you must be cautious where you buy: pet shops and puppy mills do not concern themselves with the responsible care and placement of dogs.

Select your breeder with care. Talk to as many as you can, and find one that you truly feel comfortable with. Ask a LOT of questions, and if possible, visit the kennel!! Key things that you might ask are where the pups are actually raised..giving preference to pups that are raised in the house as members of the family. A pup that has seen a vacuum cleaner, heard a telephone, a loud sports game, the family cat etc., has a good start in life. Also daily handling by the whole family is an asset – if pups are used to being handled a lot as pups, they will not be shy of that as adults.

Remember that your breeder should be a learning resource for you, and in that respect, look for a genuine knowledge of the breed. They should be able to quote the breed standard verbatim, have knowledge of both dog showing and working activities of the breed, and they should readily share this information with you. Beware of breeders that are not willing or able to educate you on the breed, even more so of the breeders that tell you just how wonderful Newfoundlands are and do not give you any of the downside of having a dog this size in your life!! Another pitfall..the “dry mouth” Newf! Many of them do not drool much...but there is no way anyone can tell you with any certainty the day you pick up that pup whether or not it is going to drool as an adult! Beware of breeders that breed “off standard” colors! The breed standard in Canada states that Newfoundlands are black or white and black (Landseer). Breeders that are breeding for off standard colors are NOT interested in striving for quality dogs, or they would be abiding by the standard for the breed.

TRANSPORTING YOUR NEWFOUNDLANDTRANSPORTING YOUR NEWFOUNDLAND

When purchasing your Newfoundland, one of the things that often gets overlooked is transportation. Yes, it is true that that cuddly puppy fits very nicely on the front seat beside you, but you must remember that it is only going to be a cuddly puppy for a few months. A Newfoundland will ride quite comfortably in the back of even a small car, provided that YOU find it acceptable. If you have a family and a small car, however, some thought is going to have to be required before purchasing a dog that is going to need the whole back seat. One of the most distressing things for breeders and animal health care personnel to see is a dog riding in the back of a truck. This highly dangerous practice should be outlawed. If your dog is riding in the back of your truck and you happen to slam on the brakes or have an accident, it is obvious that the dog is going to be badly hurt. There is always a risk of the dog seeing something intriguing and jumping out - regardless of whether or not the vehicle is moving. A lot of people say "Not MY dog - he's too well trained...” but unfortunately, even the best trained dogs are subject to memory lapses when they see something they really "must" investigate! A leap out of a moving truck, or even a parked truck, is going to mean serious injury if the dog lands wrong. Some people feel that they have gotten around it by tying the dog in. All one has to do is to take a look at the chips in the paintjob and windshield of the vehicle to realise that there is a great deal of danger even in riding unprotected. Serious eye and ear injury can result, and there is still the danger of a sudden stop - and a broken neck. Please consider transportation very carefully before purchasing a Newfoundland.

TO BREED OR NOT TO BREEDTO BREED OR NOT TO BREED No one who is purchasing their first Newf should do so with the intention of breeding. Successful breeding is a complex and demanding task. In addition to the obvious demands of time, space and finances, the rearing of a litter of giant breed puppies, which grow very quickly, will take special care and knowledge. This does not come overnight, but takes years, involving a diligent search of information by researching available literature, attending speciality shows, and associating with people who have experience in the care of these dogs. You will also need the personal experience gained from caring for a Newf of your own for a number of years. As a breeder you must remember that you will also have the responsibility of being a learning resource for your puppy buyers. This alone can take vast knowledge. Successful breeding requires not only knowledge of the basic principles of genetics, but also of the different families and individual dogs in a pedigree. A prospective breeder must learn as much as possible about the strengths and weaknesses of the proposed dam and sire, as well as their ancestors. This takes time and effort on the part of the breeder, but is absolutely essential to producing healthy dogs: dogs with the required conformation and disposition. Furthermore, it is often very difficult to determine if a pup will grow up to be suitable for breeding in terms of conformation, health and temperament. The most carefully bred and cared for litter can easily come up predominantly pet quality. Pet quality animals should not be bred. It must be remembered that pet quality means that the animal deviates from the breed standard in one or more significant area. These deviations will not interfere with the ability of the dog to function as a loving pet, and will usually not be noticed by the average person. Things that can destine a dog to be "pet quality" can be something as simple as crooked teeth, high set ears, or poor markings. It is also very important to know that the pet quality pups in a litter are treated exactly the same as their "show" littermates - ie. they are all fed the same, etc. The breeder wants good homes for ALL of the puppies. Faults can also develop at a later age - and if you really feel that you will be unhappy with a pet quality dog, you would be well advised to buy a full-grown dog. The old saying is that if you want a guaranteed Best In Show dog, you had best buy one that already has at least one Best In Show. But be prepared to pay a handsome price for it too. A great deal of time and money has already been invested in such a dog. It has, however, been the experience of many people that the dog that "didn't work out" from a show perspective became a very favoured companion anyway. The conscientious breeder will be intensely concerned with the quality of a puppy's new home. The first time buyer is usually surprised with the number and depth of questions asked by the breeder. The breeder is simply trying to ascertain that you can provide what is needed in a good home for a Newfoundland - veterinary care, good food and exercise, safety and personal time to spend with the dog, and to see if you are informed or willing to learn of the special quirks of the breed. Breeders may insist that their pups go only to people with fenced yards, regardless of the size of your property. Keep in mind that a Newfoundland, even as a puppy, can travel a long way in a very short time if he is of a mind to. Also, because all members of the family will be involved in the care and training of the new dog, it would be a good idea for all of them to visit the breeder and get a hands - on understanding of what they are getting into. BEWARE of a breeder that uses a hard sell approach or one that offers unrealistic guarantees and bargain prices. A visit to the kennel can tell the buyer a great deal, even before they see the pups. You should be looking for a nurturing environment, where there are happy, healthy dogs. Are the living quarters clean and dry? (If you were a dog, would YOU like to live here?) Ask to see the dam of the litter. Is she healthy and friendly? Be highly suspicious of any reason for her being absent - and ask to come back when you CAN see her with her pups. Don't be too hard on her if she is there though, it would be quite normal for her to be out of coat at that time in her life. You may or may not be able to see the sire of the litter, as often he is from another kennel. You should, however, be freely offered information as to how to meet him too, if you desire. After all, the parents are the best clue to the future appearance and nature of your puppy. There is a wide range of ages at which breeders prefer to let their pups go. Circumstances differ, for

example: there can be a climatic change that would dictate that the pup should be older when it leaves. If someone is truly interested in showing, the breeder may keep the pups longer to better evaluate them. However, NO Newf pup should leave for their new home before ten weeks of age. This is important for several reasons, not the least of which is that they do a great deal of learning from their dam from six to ten weeks. This invaluable learning time is what will lay the foundation for "Newf like" behaviour for the rest of their lives. Dogs that are separated from their dam too young are more subject to behaviour difficulties later in life. Select your breeder with care. Talk to as many as you can, and find one that you truly feel comfortable with. Ask a LOT of questions, and if possible, visit the kennel!! Key things that you might ask are where the pups are actually raised..giving preference to pups that are raised in the house as members of the family. A pup that has seen a vacuum cleaner, heard a telephone, a loud sports game, the family cat etc., has a good start in life. Also daily handling by the whole family is an asset – if pups are used to being handled a lot as pups, they will not be shy of that as adults.

Remember that your breeder should be a learning resource for you, and in that respect, look for a genuine knowledge of the breed. They should be able to quote the breed standard verbatim, have knowledge of both dog showing and working activities of the breed, and they should readily share this information with you. Beware of breeders that are not willing or able to educate you on the breed, even more so of the breeders that tell you just how wonderful Newfoundlands are and do not give you any of the downside of having a dog this size in your life!! Another pitfall..the “dry mouth” Newf! Many of them do not drool much...but there is no way anyone can tell you with any certainty the day you pick up that pup whether or not it is going to drool as an adult! Ask if any of their dogs have had health issues...and if they say no, beware! No matter how good a breeding program is, health problems crop up, and it’s a good thing to know that your breeder is open to discussing them with you.

Consider asking the breeder for references, both people who have their dogs, other breeders, and their veterinarian. Good breeders will have a well established relationship with at least one vet. And by the time your pup leaves the breeder, it should have had a health check (with heart auscultation) as well as at least one vaccination (by a VET!) and appropriate dewormings.

ON BREEDING NEWFOUNDLANDSON BREEDING NEWFOUNDLANDS

The only defensible reason for breeding a dog is to try to bring the natural qualities of the breed to perfection. It is a difficult venture, and should not be taken on without all of the resources. A prospective breeder must ask themselves what will be done with the pups if no suitable homes can be found. Even a small litter will make enormous demands, and when they get to be three or four months old, their normal puppy activities, such as chewing and digging, can pressure people into placing them in less than desirable homes. There are also vet bills, even if just for routine shots, etc. Feed bills are substantial. Because of these things, no one should consider breeding unless they are prepared and able to keep every single pup produced throughout its normal lifetime if necessary. Newfoundlands must never be sold to pet shop or dealer, or commercialised in any way. Nor should a breeding be done just to amuse us, or to show our children "the miracle of birth". A far better lesson can be learned by taking them to the humane society and showing them what happens to all of the unwanted dogs and cats that are produced by irresponsible people who allow indiscriminate breeding. If you feel for some reason that you should breed to produce "another Molly", because of her outstanding personality, forget that too. If Molly is a pet quality dog, she is a pet quality dog, and chances are very good that the breeder has dogs from the same line that have a great deal more to offer the breed while perpetuating the personality that you adore. The absolutely most foolish reason for breeding is the myth that you can or will make money on a litter of pups. Chances are good that it will cost a good deal more than it will bring in over the long run. Even with the basic knowledge of the principles and genetics, one must also be able to apply those

principles to the dogs at hand. You must be able to honestly assess your own dog, measure strengths and weaknesses, and to have them assessed by individuals with knowledge of the breed. Do not expect your vet to be able to help you with this - their primary concern in breeding is mechanical. They are not educated in the conformation of the animal, and it is highly unlikely that they will even have a basic knowledge of the standard for your breed. That is not their job.

THE VALUE OF THE SHOW RINGTHE VALUE OF THE SHOW RING

A championship is not a guarantee of quality. As in any breed, there are dogs that have attained championship titles or even higher honours due to expensive ad campaigns and rigorous showing in areas of little competition. A show win is not always synonymous with quality. A good breeder will assess the dogs as to their innate quality and their specific potential contribution to the breed as a whole. The breeder will also assess a stud dog on his qualities, not on his show record. A Best in Show may look great on the pedigree, but if he does not have the required qualities for a specific bitch, he is of absolutely no value bred to her. The only true measurement of a breeding animal is the standard of the breed as set out by the National Club for that breed. Temperament being the hallmark of the breed, it MUST always be a first consideration. Regardless of the conformation and beauty of the animal, if the temperament is questionable, it should not even be considered for breeding. There are, however, no perfect dogs. Your breeder should be able to tell you, freely, the strengths and weaknesses of the parents of your pup, and the reason that they were chosen to be bred together. The fact that the breeder just happens to own them both is not a good enough reason, and the father of a litter from a good breeder will frequently be from a different kennel...because he was the best dog for that female. Breeders with a variety of dogs will actually have a breeding program, and will be using their own dogs together, but when you come upon a breeder that is just breeding a “pair” over and over, walk away...fast. That’s a commercial breeder, and the objective is not for improvement, it’s purely financial.

THE BROOD BITCHTHE BROOD BITCH

No Newfoundland bitch should ever be used for breeding before she is two years of age and her hips have been certified clear of Hip Dysplasia by OFA. Under no circumstances should they have more than one litter in a one-year period. It is a very rare bitch that is still in breeding condition past 6 years of age. OFA, the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, maintains an open database that you can actually go on and research the parents, grandparents etc. of your dog. Newfoundlands should also be cleared by DNA for cystinuria. Question any reason for clearances to not be in place. Sometimes the reasons are valid, sometimes, they are NOT. You need to ask. The recommended clearances for breeding stock are hips, elbows, cystinuria, and heart.

THE STUD DOGTHE STUD DOG

The owners of the stud dog share equally in all considerations with regards to breeding, and should ensure ahead of time that they fully approve of the bitch, the owners, and the conditions under which the pups will be raised and marketed. While it is flattering to have someone request to use one's dog, unless they are capable and caring breeders with a very good quality bitch, it is likely that the pups will not be all that they should be. Remember that equal responsibility goes to each parent - and more so to the owners of the parents - when the decision to produce puppies is made, even though the owners of the stud dog will not be directly responsible for raising the pups. Once a breeding is done, it is the responsibility of the breeder to educate puppy buyers in every possible way, and to be available to answer their questions. The breeding of a litter is a commitment that lasts the

lifetime of each and every puppy.

WHAT ABOUT THE FUTUREWHAT ABOUT THE FUTURE

A responsible breeder will always inform the buyer that should circumstances ever arise in which the new owner cannot keep the dog, they are to be informed immediately. It is very tough to imagine when you pick up your puppy, but things do happen sometimes and people have to give them up for a variety of reasons. Deaths, divorces, serious illness, financial difficulties and the like can render the new owner incapable of caring for the dog. If this should occur, the breeder should be available to either take the dog back or to help place it in a good home on a temporary or even permanent basis.

WHAT ABOUT THE BUYER?WHAT ABOUT THE BUYER?

The new owner should learn as much as possible about the proper care and training, health care, exercise, etc., before taking their puppy home. He should take home with him all information on food, feeding instructions, feeding times, and a few days' supply of the pup’s regular food to ensure that any change in diet can be done gradually. There are many acceptable methods of feeding dogs, but you would be well advised to follow the methods of your chosen breeder. After all, you selected them for their experience and the quality of dogs they showed you - dogs that were raised by their specific diets and methods. A truly good breeder will always be there to answer your questions and concerns, and will make sure that you have adequate information before you leave. With the advent of internet, much of this information can be made available to you BEFORE you get your pup home, to help you prepare properly. In addition to books and periodicals about the breed, you should obtain from your breeder the name and address of the executive of any breed clubs that you can join. It is common for people to be pleasantly surprised to see how many people with their breed are in a given area once they have discovered how to contact them. Many lasting friendships have been based on dog ownership over the years.

YOUR REGISTRATION PAPERSYOUR REGISTRATION PAPERS

Registration papers for your purebred pup are not an added attraction - in Canada, they are the law. Dogs come under the jurisdiction of Agriculture Canada, and are governed by the Livestock Pedigree Act. It states, in effect, that if a dog is sold as a purebred, registration papers must be provided AT NO EXTRA COST. The dog also MUST have permanent identification before it leaves the breeder, either via microchip or tattoo. No breeder is allowed to just give you the chip and tell you to have it done yourself. It is also a federal offence to sell or advertise for sale a dog as a purebred if it is not eligible for registration with the Canadian Kennel Club – and ONLY the Canadian Kennel Club. Other registering bodies indicate a less than serious breeder! These laws are there to protect you, the consumer. To buy an unregistered purebred is to buy an expensive mutt. You have absolutely no assurance of the background of the dog except the seller's say so. If you are buying a puppy, the papers will not be immediately available, as there are several steps to registering them. It will take time, but you should have your papers in hand by the time the pup is 6 months old. Most breeders will have you sign a non-breeding contract at the time of sale. Many breeders will have a personal contract also, which will state what they expect of you as an owner, and what they offer in the line of guarantee on the dog. Make sure that you understand all of the terms of the contract. So, when you get your puppy, you should be walking away with a pedigree of at least 3 generations, a

current health record outlining what shots have been done and what shots are due when, feeding instructions, a copy of the non breeding agreement, (which will have the names and registration numbers of the sire and dam), and a receipt for moneys paid.

WHAT THE TERMS OFA OR OVC IN THE PEDIGREE MEANWHAT THE TERMS OFA OR OVC IN THE PEDIGREE MEAN

As one of its services, the Orthopaedic Foundation for Animals provides a hip dysplasia registry, where hip x-rays from all over America are examined for signs of Hip Dysplasia. These are graded as excellent, good, or fair, all considered normal. They also classify some as mild, moderately, or severely dysplastic. Only dogs over 24 months are eligible for certification, and only those who receive a normal rating will be issued an OFA number. In Canada, diagnostic services and hip registry are offered by the Ontario Vet College, hence the letters OVC. OVC certification can be obtained at 18 months of age. Research has shown that by using only animals with normal hips, the incidence of hip dysplasia can be greatly reduced. Using animals with pedigree depth for normal hips (ie. parents, grandparents, great grandparents), gives even better odds. The terms OFA and OVC on your puppy pedigree is your assurance that the breeder is doing all they can to avoid producing puppies with hip dysplasia. As of this writing..OVC no longer offers certifications. However, you may still see OVC certifications on older dogs in pedigrees.

SPAYING AND NEUTERINGSPAYING AND NEUTERING The nicest part about spaying and neutering pet quality dogs is all of the things you WON'T have to deal with! For one thing, you will never have the burden of unwanted pups, pups that may never have a real home and will become part of the horrifying number of animals that are put to death each year. (The people who contribute to this are not only the owners of the unspayed females - many a caring owner has put their in season bitch out in the safety of her own back yard, only to discover that some roving male has scaled the barrier and bred her anyway.) With a spayed female, you will not have to deal with messy heat cycles, and because spaying involves complete removal of the ovaries, she will have less risk of uterine infections or ovarian and mammary problems. The dog next door will not be howling all night because of her delightful (to him only!) odour, and you will not end up having to cancel holiday plans because she came in season. If you neuter your male, he won't desert you to pursue amour, and you won't have neighbours complaining about Romeo escaping and hanging around their doors and ruining their shrubbery. You won't have a dog that forgets himself and lifts his leg on the furnishings, or, worse yet, acts out his sexual fantasies on Aunt Martha's kneecap. Is it fair to the dog? Will they feel deprived? Not at all. Dogs do not read "The Joy of Sex" or "Playboy", so if these operations are done before awareness develops, they never miss what they never had. The notion that a female should be allowed to have one litter to settle her down is a fallacy. It does not work on people and it does not work on dogs either! There are important health benefits too - studies have shown that neutered dogs outlive their intact littermates by a considerable amount. Consult your breeder about the appropriate time to spay your dog or neuter your dog. Veterinarians recommend spaying and neutering very early – there is evidence to suggest that waiting a little longer may be beneficial in large breeds.

CRATE TRAININGCRATE TRAINING

Most breeders will recommend that if your dog is to live indoors, you seriously consider obtaining a crate. The most common problem people have with a crate is that they see it as a cage. Fortunately, the dog does NOT. If a dog has been properly taught to utilise a crate, they see it as their DEN, a room of their own, and they appreciate the privacy. After all, dogs are happier when they are prevented from getting in trouble than they are when being scolded for something they have done. A crate can be a magnificent aid to housetraining, using the den instinct to your advantage. Few dogs will willingly soil their den. It can give great peace of mind when you are out for the evening, and it is absolutely unequalled for convenience when you are travelling with a dog. The downside of crates is cost. A crate for a Newfoundland will run about two hundred dollars. HOWEVER, when your puppy is in the chewing stage, one evening away from home can result in more than two hundred dollars worth of damage (say 3 pairs of Reeboks with the heels chewed off or the leg on the dining room table...) When you look at it in that light, it is a good investment indeed. Ask your breeder where you can obtain a crate and what size to get.

Points to Ponder Before PurchasingA new Puppy

1. If you have had a dog before, what happened to it?

2. Are you sure that you want to make a commitment that will last for 10 or 12 years?

3. Do you have the financial resources to take care of a dog, keeping in mind the current costs of food, veterinary care, etc?

4. Are you capable of training a dog of this size, and are you willing to learn how to train it properly? (Keep in mind that at 6 months of age it will be in the 60 to 80 lb. range, and will need to know basic obedience if it is to be controllable.)

5. Do you have, or are you willing to construct, a proper fenced area to contain this dog?

6. Do you have the time to keep this dog groomed? It will need a weekly thorough brushing to stay in good shape.

7. What will you do with this dog when you go on vacation?

8. Are you going to spay or neuter the dog, and if not, do you have adequate facilities to avoid a mismating? (This is equally important for owners of MALE dogs, after all, it takes two, and if your neighbour has a female dog in season, it will be up to you to keep your male dog at home and out of trouble. This can require a pretty substantial fencing system with a 160 lb. Romeo!)

9. If your current circumstances change (divorces, separations, job changes, etc.) is there still going to be a place in your life for this animal?

Pipeline Perm. Reg. Newfoundlands

Cindy L. WilliamsBox 459, Davidson, Sask., S0G 1A0

(306) 567-3278 email cinames@sasktel.net