Function of dolomiteDolomite is a mixed magnesium / calcium carbonate rock. It contains about 10%+ of Magnesium. Carbonates are slightly alkaline so addition of CaCO3 or MgCO3 to soil makes it more alkaline (higher pH). Lime (calcium hydroxide) is the most alkaline chemical it is useful to apply to soil, hence "liming the soil". However it is very caustic so dangerous to handle, whereas carbonates are completely safe. Some plants don't like too much calcium, but they don't mind Mg which is an essential plant micronutrient. Chlorophyll, the green plant pigment essential for photosynthesis contains Mg. So dolomite is safer than limestone to some plants.The problem is that the buffering capacity of soil is very high. This means that a lot of chemical has to be applied to change pH significantly. For example, about 9 oz per square yard (300g/m2) of dolomite has to be put on to raise pH by 0.5 units e.g. 6 to 6.5. The more finely ground the dolomite the quicker it will work, but heavy rain may wash it away in sandy soils so it will need applying again. Dolomite grit applied in a larger quantity may last longer but will work slower.

How to Improve Acidic Soil in Your Garden

Acidic soil, which is soil with a pH lower than 7 (growing more acidic the lower the number gets -- 7 is considered "neutral" in terms of acidity) can be a problem if you intend to grow certain plants, such as vegetables, most annuals, and lawn grasses. All of these types of plants perform poorly in acidic soil, because soil acidity prevents them from taking up nutrients from the soil.

If a soil test has indicated that you have acidic soil in your garden, there are a couple of things you can do to start improving your soil and increase the pH.

Adding pulverized limestone or dolomite limestone (which has magnesium in addition to the calcium carbonate that makes up regular lime) is one of the fastest ways to increase your soil's pH. You'll generally want to look for something called "garden lime" or the above-mentioned "dolomite limestone" for your garden. Other types of lime, such as hydrated lime or "quicklime" are much too caustic for garden soils, and less safe for the gardener to use.

The general recommendation for adding lime to your soil is to add five to ten pounds per 100 square feet of garden soil to increase your soil's pH by one level (to go from a pH of 4 to a pH of 5, for example). BUT, if you have clay soil, it will take more than the prescribed level to raise your pH. This is a good reason to have your soil tested; the results you get back will give you exact recommendations based on your particular soil type.

You may have to add lime regularly to maintain your soil's pH once you have it where you want it, so plan to perform a pH test at least once per year if you've been battling acidic soil.

Bone Meal

Bone meal, which is exactly what it sounds like, is a good source of calcium and can help raise your soil's pH over time. It is not a quick fix method, and is best used for soils that are only slightly acidic. General recommendations are to apply bone meal at a rate of five pounds per 50 square feet, but you can increase that (up to double) if you are trying to raise your soil's pH.

Compost

Another long-term solution for acidic soil is to keep adding good quality compost to the area. While this won't have an immediate impact on the soil's pH, it will help improve it over time and provide any plants in the area with vital nutrients while you're getting the soil's acidity level under control. Add at least two to three inches of compost per year, either to the surface of the soil or dug into the soil, depending on what you're growing in that area. If you're growing perennials, shrubs, or trees, simply topdress the area with compost. If it's a new planting area, or one that you replant every year, such as a vegetable garden, then dig it into the top few inches of soil at or before planting time, or at the end of the season.

Wood Ash

You can also use wood ashes to increase your soil's pH. If you take this route, just make sure that you haven't burned any treated woods, or black walnut, which is generally toxic to other plants. Wood ash is best applied in the fall, at a rate of about five to ten pounds per 100 square feet. If you decide to apply wood ash, be sure to dig it into the soil, otherwise the small, dusty particles will simply blow away.

Improving acidic garden soil isn't difficult, but it will take a bit of time and patience. Whether you choose lime, bonemeal, ash, or compost (or a combination of them) to help improve your soil, you'll have a healthier garden and stronger plants as a result.

Q: What is a soil test?

A: A soil test is a process by which elements (phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sodium, sulfur, manganese, copper and zinc) are chemically removed from the soil and measured for their "plant available" content within the sample. The quantity of available nutrients in the sample determines the amount of fertilizer that is recommended. A soil test also measures soil pH, humic matter and exchangeable acidity. These analyses indicate whether lime is needed and, if so, how much to apply.

Q: Where can I get a soil test kit?

A: There is not really a "soil test kit." To take a soil sample, you need a clean, plastic bucket; a stainless steel soil probe, shovel, spade or garden trowel; a sample information form; and soil boxes. Information forms and soil boxes are available from NCDA&CS regional agronomists, the Agronomic Division office in Raleigh, county Cooperative Extension offices, or local agribusinesses. Information forms are also available online.

IMPORTANT NOTES: Do not use brass or bronze tools because they will contaminate samples with copper. Galvanized buckets or tools will contaminate samples with zinc. When filling out the sample information form, specify the crop(s) you plan to grow

in order to get appropriate lime and fertilizer recommendations. Instructions and crop codes are shown on the back of the information form. Home lawns, vegetable gardens and flower gardens are considered crops and have their respective crop codes.

Q: How much soil is needed for a soil test?

A: The Agronomic Division recommends about 0.5 pound. This amount should be enough to represent the area being tested. The boxes used for submitting samples have a "fill line" that shows the amount of soil needed.

Q: What is a soil test extractant?

A: An extractant is a mixture of various chemical reagents dissolved in water. It removes plant-available nutrients from the soil and dissolves them in a liquid phase. Most extractants can remove phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, manganese, zinc and copper from a sample.

Q: When I receive my soil test report, how do I know what the numbers mean?

A: A cover sheet called "Understanding the Soil Test Report" comes with your report and defines all the parameters shown on the report.

Q: What does the term CEC shown on the report mean?

A: CEC stands for "cation exchange capacity." It is a relative measure of the soil's capacity to hold positively charged nutrients, such as potassium (K+), calcium (Ca++), magnesium (Mg++) and hydrogen (H+). As this value increases, the capacity of a soil to hold nutrients also increases. The following soils are listed in order of lowest to highest CEC values: sands, sandy loams, sandy clay loams, clay loams, clays, and organics.

Q: What does the term BS% mean, and what does it tell you about a soil?

A: BS% stands for "base saturation percent." It represents the percent of the CEC that is occupied by basic nutrient elements, such as calcium (Ca++), magnesium (Mg++) and potassium (K+). BS% indicates pH and lime status of soils. As the soil pH increases, BS% also increases. On soils that are properly limed, BS% may range from 70 to 90. On soils that are extremely acid (low pH), BS% ranges from 50 to 60.

Q: How often should a soil be tested?

A: As a rule, test sandy-textured soils every 2 to 3 years and clay soils every 3 to 4 years. However, if problems occur during the growing season, send in a soil sample for analysis.

Q: What does the pH measure?

A: Soil pH indicates how acid or basic a soil is. It is a logarithmic function of the hydrogen ion concentration [H+]: pH = -log [H+]. A pH of 6.0 is ten times more acid than a pH of 7.0; a pH of 5.0 is 100 times more acid than a pH of 7.0, and so on. A pH of 7.0 is neutral; below 7.0, the soil is acid; above 7.0, the soil is basic. For example, battery acid has a very low pH (<3.0); household ammonia is basic and has a high pH (>10.0). [Acidic < pH 7.0 > Basic].

Q: Can I buy a pH meter to test my soil?

A: Most pH meters sold in hardware and garden centers are not very reliable for measuring soil pH. Accurate pH meters are available but are quite expensive for homeowner use. Consistently reliable results can be obtained by submitting samples to a soil testing laboratory.

Q: When is the best time to take soil samples?

A: You can take soil samples any time throughout the year. Late summer or early fall is a good time to sample for most crops. Any lime that is recommended can then be applied and have enough time to react and change the pH before the next season's crop is planted.

Collect soil samples 3 to 6 months before planting. For lawns, late summer (mid-August) is appropriate, particularly for cool-season grasses.

The turnaround time for samples submitted from mid-October through mid-April may be several weeks due to the large numbers of samples usually being handled at this time. Samples submitted from mid-April through October are usually analyzed within a few days.

Q: What is the procedure for taking soil samples?

A: Collect a slice or core of soil (4 inches deep for lawns, 6 to 8 inches deep for gardens) from 8 to 10 random locations across the lawn or garden. Mix these cores together in a plastic bucket. Fill a soil box with this mixture and label it so you know which area it came from.

For most garden areas, one sample/plot should be adequate. However, certain areas may need to be sampled and labeled separately if soil types are obviously different or if plants with different requirements are being grown. In such cases, label samples from each unique area differently: e.g., FRONT, BACK, SIDE, etc.

Q: Can samples be taken when soils are wet?

A: Soil moisture does not affect soil test results. Samples are dried before they are analyzed. However, extremely wet soils are difficult to collect and mix. Therefore, allow soil to drain before sampling. Soil too wet to till is too wet to sample.

Q: Do soil samples need to be sealed before shipping?

A: There is no reason for individual sample boxes to be sealed. The laboratory provides boxes that give adequate sample protection. To mail sample boxes full of soil, pack them inside a sturdy box that prevents them from being crushed and mixed with other samples. DO NOT ship samples in paper envelopes.

Q: How deep should samples be taken?

A:

Cropping System Sampling Depth*

Established lawns 4 inches

Vegetable gardens 6 to 8 inches

Shrubs and Trees 6 inches

Field Crops 6 to 8 inches

Forage/Pasture Crops 4 inches

No-Till Field Crops 4 inches

* Note: If you are taking a sample to diagnose a suspected nutrient problem, take the sample within the plant root zone.

Q: What is the most desirable pH for growing plants?

A: It depends on the plant.

Plant Type Optimum Soil pH

Azalea, rhododendron, camellia, mountain laurel 5.0–5.5

Most shrubs and shade trees 6.0

Fescue, bermudagrass, zoysia, St. Augustinegrass 6.0–6.5

Centipedegrass 5.5

Rose 6.5

Berries and most fruit trees, except blueberries 6.0–6.5

Most vegetable and field crops 6.0–6.5

Tomato 6.5

Q: What is lime and how does it benefit the soil and plant growth?

A: Lime is any substance with the capability of neutralizing soil acidity. Most soils contain appreciable amounts of acidic

components (hydrogen H+ and aluminum Al+++) that can be toxic to plants. Indeed, lime is the "anti-acid" for soils.

No soil amendment provides as many benefits as lime. Lime raises soil pH, providing a more favorable environment for microorganisms. Dolomitic lime provides the major portion of calcium and magnesium required for plant growth. Furthermore, plants utilize applied fertilizers more efficiently on soils that are properly limed.

Q: What is the difference between calcitic and dolomitic lime?

A: Both kinds of lime have the same acid-neutralizing value when applied at equivalent rates. However, they differ chemically. Calcitic lime contains calcium carbonate only. Dolomitic lime is a mixture of calcium and magnesium carbonates that contains at least six percent magnesium. Most of the lime used for agricultural purposes is dolomitic.

Q: What is gypsum, and why can't it be used in place of lime?

A: Gypsum, also known as landplaster, is calcium sulfate. It is an economical source of calcium and sulfate but cannot be used as a liming material because it does not have the capability to neutralize soil acidity. In fact, applying gypsum to an acid soil (pH less than 5.5) can have adverse effects on certain crops by displacing soil aluminum, which is toxic to plant roots. Gypsum is frequently applied to crops to provide supplemental calcium. There is no substitute for lime in neutralizing soil acidity.

Q: Why would a crop turn yellow after lime is applied?

A: If plants appear chlorotic after a lime application, low manganese is usually the problem. Applying lime raises the soil pH and reduces the availability of manganese. In such cases, manganese should be applied to the soil. Soils with adequate manganese levels should not show symptoms following lime application. The yield increase attributable to lime should more than pay for applying manganese as well—not to mention the residual benefits to be received in following years.

Q: Why do the soils of North Carolina need lime?

A: North Carolina soils become quite acid because the warm, humid climate leaches basic cations from the soil. Acid rainfall can also cause soils to become acidic. The basic cations—calcium (Ca++), potassium (K+) and magnesium (Mg++)—are leached from the soil profile and replaced with acidic components (H+ and Al+++) that are toxic to plant roots. The toxic components are neutralized by lime.

Q: How often should lime be applied?

A: Apply lime only when recommended by a soil test. Some soils need to be limed every 2 to 3 years, others every 3 to 4 years. In general, sandy-textured soils need to be limed more frequently than clays because sandy soils are more subject to pH changes caused by leaching and fertilizer treatments.

Ideally, lime should be applied and mixed into the soil before a crop is planted. However, if the need is great, lime can be applied even when plants are already in place. Unlike fertilizers, lime can be spread over growing crops without damaging the crop. When lime has been applied as recommended, do not apply more without taking another soil test.

Q: What happens when too much lime is applied?

A: Soil pH and micronutrient availability are interrelated. Too much lime can raise soil pH to a point where micronutrients become unavailable to plants. Micronutrients affected by pH include iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn) and, to a lesser extent, copper (Cu). Problems caused by applying too much lime are more difficult to correct than those that result from having applied too little. You can always apply more lime, but you cannot remove it if you put out too much.

Q: Does pelletized lime work as well as powdered lime?

A: When used as specified on the label, pelletized lime is just as effective as powdered lime. Pelletized lime contains finely ground dolomitic lime bound in pellet form. In contact with water, the pellets disintegrate and release the enclosed lime. Pelletized lime is more expensive but easier and less messy to apply than powdered lime. To many homeowners, it is well worth the extra cost.

Q: Why is it important to mix lime into the soil?

A: Lime is only slightly soluble in water and does not move into the soil as effectively as soluble fertilizers, such as nitrogen (N) and potassium (K). Lime reacts with soil acids most effectively when it is mixed with the soil and adequate water is present. However, when lime cannot be incorporated into the soil, a surface application is better than none at all.

Q: Does surface-applied lime provide any benefit to established lawns and shrubs?

A: Yes. However, surface-applied lime reacts much slower than lime mixed into the soil. Most of the reaction of surface-applied lime occurs in the top 1 to 2 inches of the soil. If you surface-apply lime to established plants, apply no more than 50 lb per 1000 ft² initially, even if your soil test report recommends more. Apply the remainder after six months. On no-till fields, apply only 1.0 to 1.5 tons per acre; apply the remainder within the following year.

Q: When lime is mixed into the soil, how long does it take to change soil pH?

A: With adequate soil moisture, lime begins to react immediately, and pH changes should be evident within a couple of months. However, it takes about 6 to 12 months for the total benefit of lime to be realized. As soil pH increases, the reaction rate of lime decreases due to a lower concentration of soil acids: e.g., the lime reaction rate is higher at pH 5.0 than at pH 6.0.

Q: Why do clay soils require more lime than sandy soils at the same pH?

A: Clay soils are aluminosilicates and contain more potential acidity than sandy soils. As the pH falls below 5.5, aluminum become soluble at levels toxic to plants. In addition, soluble aluminum reacts with water to produce hydrogen ions, further reducing soil pH. Since clay soils generate more acidity than sandy soils, they require more lime to counteract it.

Q: How much lime is enough?

A: Soil test measurements of pH and exchangeable acidity indicate whether enough lime has been applied. The purpose of applying lime is to reduce exchangeable aluminum (acidity) to levels that are not toxic to plants. Research shows that nontoxic

levels occur at pH values above 5.5. A soil pH of 6.0 is usually recommended to allow for variation in lime application, soil type, climate, fertilizer effects and crop tolerance. Some crops have a higher target pH of 6.0 to 6.5.

Q: Why do clay and organic soils hold nutrients better than sandy soils?

A: Chemically, clay and organic soils have many negative sites that attract and hold positively charged nutrient ions, such as potassium (K+), calcium (Ca++) and magnesium (Mg++). Pure sand alone, on the other hand, has no negative sites. The nutrient-holding capacity of a sandy soil is directly related to the amount of clay and organic matter mixed with and coating the sand. In addition, because sandy soils are porous, water moves freely through the soil profile carrying nutrients downward with it.

Q: Is it possible to increase the nutrient-holding capacity of a sandy soil?

A: In a home garden setting, the best way to increase a soil's nutrient-holding capacity is to mix organic matter, such as composted leaves, into the soil. As added benefits, organic matter enhances biological activity within the soil, increases water retention and provides essential plant nutrients. In a field crop situation, green manure (cover crops) can be incorporated into sandy soils to increase nutrient and water retention. To maintain beneficial effects, organic matter must be added to the soil regularly.

Q: Will lime rid my yard of moss problems?

A: Generally not. Moss growth is influenced by other conditions, such as shade, poor drainage, soil compaction, poor fertility (although moss grows quite well on fertile lawns) and very acid soils. Although lime will neutralize soil acidity, the other factors that promote moss growth remain the same. Several chemicals are available for moss control. Follow label recommendations for rate and method of application.

Q: What do the numbers on the fertilizer bag mean?

A: In order, the three numbers represent the percent nitrogen (N), percent phosphate (P2O5) and percent potash (K2O) contained in the bag. This formula is a national standard for fertilizer labeling. For example, a bag of 15-10-20 contains 15% nitrogen, 10% phosphate and 20% potash. Every 100 lb of this fertilizer contains 45 lb of plant nutrients.

Q: If a November soil test recommends 10 lb of 10-10-10 per 1000 ft² for shrubbery, when should this fertilizer be applied?

A: Wait until spring to apply fertilizer that was recommended in November. In general, make application about the time foliage begins to grow.

Q: How do you calculate the total amount of lime or fertilizer to apply based on a rate given per 1000 ft²?A: First, determine how many square feet you plan to treat. Multiply length (ft) by width (ft) and divide by 1000 to obtain the number of 1000-ft² units you have. Multiplying this number by number of pounds recommended per 1000 ft² gives you the total amount of lime or fertilizer needed to cover this area. Example: 40 ft × 30 ft = 1200 ft², divided by 1000 = 1.2 thousand ft² units. If 40 lb/1000 ft² was the recommendation, then 40 lb × 1.2 gives the total amount to apply: 48 lb to cover the 1200-ft² area.

Q: If a soil test report recommends 10 lb of 10-10-10 per 1000 ft², how do you convert this rate so you can use a different grade of fertilizer?

A: The recommendation of 10 lb of 10-10-10 advises an application rate of 1 lb of nitrogen [10% of 10 lb] per 1000 ft². You can substitute any fertilizer grade but calculate the appropriate rate, as follows:

Rate in lb per 1000 ft² = (lb N desired per 1000 ft²) ÷ (%N in fertilizer ÷ 100)

Example: Using a 15-15-15 fertilizer source, the rate to apply is [(1.0 lb N per 1000 ft²) ÷ (15 ÷ 100)] = (100 ÷ 15) = 6.66 lb of 15-15-15 per 1000 ft².

Q: What if a soil test report recommends an unusual fertilizer grade like 15-0-14 or 8-0-24?

A: Soil high in phosphorus get this type of fertilizer recommendation. When the soil test phosphorus index is greater than 50, no phosphorus is recommended for lawn, garden or landscape samples. Grades 15-0-14 or 8-0-24 can be purchased from fertilizer dealers that cater to farmers. If you cannot find these materials at local garden centers, contact a regular fertilizer dealer who can assist you in blending the proper ratio or provide an appropriate substitute.

Q: How are slow-release fertilizers different from other fertilizers?

A: Slow-release fertilizers have a coating that reduces solubility of the encapsulated nutrients. These fertilizers are effective, though somewhat expensive, nutrient sources that are less subject to leaching. The rate of nutrient release depends on temperature, moisture, and the type and thickness of the coating.

Q: What about "organic" or "natural" nutrient sources for growing plants?

A: Organic and commercial fertilizers are equally successful. Blood meal is an organic fertilizer that contains 12% N. Animal and poultry wastes, composted leaves and municipal waste products are other organic sources. Some municipal wastes are amended with lime (used in the composting process). Natural (i.e., not man-made) fertilizer deposits include sodium nitrate (NaNO3), 16% N; potassium sulfate (K2SO4), 50% K2O; potassium chloride (KCl), 60% K2O; guano, a deposit of dried bird and/or bat excrement high in nitrogen and phosphorus; greensand, which contains potassium; gypsum (23% Ca), 18% S; and calcitic (CaCO3) and dolomitic lime (CaMgCO3). Lime is a natural source for calcium and magnesium, which are essential for plant growth.

Q: Which are better: organic or mineral fertilizers?

A: To plants, nutrients are the same regardless of their origin. Nutrients in "organic" fertilizers must be converted to an "inorganic" state before they can be utilized by plants. Equivalent amounts of nutrients will provide the same nutritional value to plants.

One major advantage of organic fertilizers is the addition of organic matter to the soil. The added organic matter provides many benefits to the physical, chemical and microbiological environment of the soil. In addition, organic sources contain sulfur and/or micronutrients that may not be present in an inorganic fertilizer. Organic sources generally supply nutrients in a "slow release" manner that reduces loss through leaching.

Q: What are the benefits of water-soluble micronutrients?

A: Water-soluble micronutrients are most effective in correcting deficiencies. Some micronutrients sold for agricultural purposes are in chemical forms that are neither available to plants nor detectable by a soil test. Such products are useless for crop production. They may become soluble under very acidic conditions, but such conditions are not conducive to crop production.

Q: How can small amounts of nutrients (e.g., 2 lb per acre) be applied uniformly?

A: Use a liquid spray applicator with a spray volume of at least 20 gallons per acre. Another option is to apply the nutrient with other liquid fertilizers or chemicals. If you do this, mix a small volume first to make sure all components are compatible. To mix the nutrient with dry-blended fertilizers, dissolve it in water and spray in on the dry fertilizer as it is being blended.

Q: Can heavy fertilization harm plants?

A: Fertilizers are salts and will injure plants in the same manner as table salt sprayed on the foliage. High salt levels in the soil draw water from plants causing them to wilt (dehydrate) and, in severe cases, die. Even normal fertilizer rates can damage plants when soil moisture is low. Irrigation dilutes the salt content and prevents plant injury. As essential as fertilizers are to good plant production, too much can be detrimental. Plant nutrition, like human nutrition, requires a proper balance and level of nutrients to sustain good health.

1. Q. How Can I sterilize my Hydroton Grow rocks so I can safely use them again?

A. To clean and sterilize the rocks soak them in a bath oh h202 and water at a ratio of 1liter -

100 liters of water and leave sit over night. Then rinse the rocks off with hot water very

thoroughly. If you really want to make sure there sterilized you can bake them at 250 F but

this is a real pain in the ass. The best recommendation is buy more clay rocks. They are

cheap and it's easy to replace so it's not worth the hassle to bake them.

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2. Q. Does using liquid seaweed kelp actually help plant growth?

A. Kelp contains over 70 minerals and trace elements and is an excellent source of

micronutrients. It is excellent in an organic garden where synthetic chelates cannot be used.

It contains many different amounts of hormones, such as cytokinins. Kelp contains high

levels of sodium so if your plants are sodium sensitive such as lettuce then use in

moderation. Kelp is often used as a foliar spray and is very effective as a foliar spray.

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3. Q. What is the purpose of adding dolomite lime to my medium?

A. It is used as a PH stabilizer. It has a neutral PH of 7 and will never rise beyond 7. It is a

compound of magnesium and calcium mixed well in the medium. Before planting mix in well.

Follow the manufacturer's suggested rate of application.

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4. Q. What is soiless mix? Why no soil?

A. It is a popular growing medium used by many people and very popular amongst

commercial greenhouses and nurseries. It is usually a high porosity mixture of sphagnum

moss, prelate, wetting agent, pumice, vermiculite, coco fiber and dolomite lime. It is very

easy to work with and a favorite amongst gardeners worldwide.

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5. Q. What should my soil temperature be?

A. Soil temperature should range from 65 -75 F for optimal growth rate.

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6. Q. Can I put cuttings that are started in rock wool into a soiless mix?

A. Yes, absolutely, plants respond just fine with this style of transplant. Rock wool is nice to

start the cuttings in and they transplant well into soiless mix. Rock wool transplants well into

most mediums.

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7. Q. What style of container should I use? Long and deep or short and squat?

A. Since plants roots tend to branch downward and penetrate deep rather than out the side.

Sort and squat often do not go deep enough and end up just wasting more medium than

actually benefiting the plant.

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8. Q. What size of container should I use for my 3 foot high tomato plant?

A. I would recommend a 3 gallon container. An easy way to remember when transplanting is

approximately 1 gallon for every foot you plan on your plant getting, so in this case a 3 gallon

container. This is just an approximate but you can be the judge based on the plants size and

dimensions.

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9. Q. Can I reuse my soiless mix after harvesting a crop?

A. You can but the possibilities of fungal attack, soil born disease, pythium, and nutrient build

up are too high to risk. The soiless medium is so cheap and easy to replace so I definitely

recommend not reusing the soil less mix. Spend the 25 $ and buy a new bale. Your plants

will love you for it.

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10. Q. If my plants are in a soil less mix when should I water them in the early day or later

in the light cycle?

A. Always water early in the light cycle. This allows the plant to draw up some of the

moisture. Soaking them before the lights go out can be an open invitation to fungal attacks

and root rot. Moisture meters work great and are great for indicating when the plant is in

need of water or not. These are usually inexpensive, around the $15 range and worth every

penny.

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11. Q. Is it possible to over water my plants?

A. Yes this is a common problem amongst indoor beginner gardeners. Too much water

suffocates the plants root system and deprives it of oxygen.

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12. Q. Does adding a wetting agent to my nutrient solution help?

A. Yes wetting agent decreases surface tension making the water more adhesive. Basically

making water wetter. This allows the water to penetrate through the soil right down to the

plant's root system. It is also extremely effective as a foliar spray additive and works

excellent with products such as neem oil.

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13. Q. What is the difference between mobile and immobile nutrients?

A. Mobile nutrients are nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), Potassium (K), Zinc and magnesium.

These nutrients are able to move themselves within the plant to go where they are needed

most. Immobile nutrients are boron(B), calcium(CA), chlorine(cl), copper(cu), Cobalt(co),

silicon(SI), sulfur(S) and molybdenum(mb) are not able to move themselves within the plant.

They stay in their place of origin in the older leaves causing the newer leaves to show signs

of deficiency.

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14. Q. What is the difference between Macro and Micro nutrients?

A. Macro nutrients are the elements needed by the plant the most. That is nitrogen (N),

Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K). They are the basic building block of plant growth. The

micro nutrients are often referred to as trace elements. They are required in trace amounts.

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15. Q. What do the 3 numbers stand for in a fertilizer mix fore example 20-20-20?

A. These numbers represent the percentage of nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium

(K). These are the 3 main elements in plant fertilizer.

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16. Q. How does N-P-K affect plant growth?

A. Nitrogen (N) is required in high amounts during the vegetative stage of growth and not so

much during the bloom stage. Nitrogen flushes away easily and is always in need of

replenishing during the vegetative period. It is also very important for leaf and stem growth.

Nitrogen is very active amongst young leave, bud shoots and shoots. Plants show signs of

nitrogen deficiency with symptoms like slower growth, yellowing occurs amongst young

leaves between the veins eventually progressing to yellow the whole leaf, eventually leading

it to completely die and fall off. Phosphorus (P) is used in high amounts in germination,

cuttings, seedlings, and bloom stage. Phosphorus is very important for vigor and seed

production. It is very active in new growth and root tips growth, small dark blotchy leaves with

stems and veins turning a reddish color. Seed yield is drastically affected as well. Potassium

(K) is an element used in all stages of plant growth. Potassium will increase a plants

resistance to drought, disease, and mold. Potassium is very important to a plant. It performs

many functions such as regulating the stomata opening for the plant to intake C02. It helps in

root growth and increases chlorophyll in the leaves. It is very important in production of

starch and sugars. Potassium deficiency often appear as weak and brittle stems, older

leaves die off at the tips, plants become weal and often burdened with disease.

Unfortunately potassium locks up easily in soil with a high salt content.

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17. Q. I've read about mixing my own fertilizer and would like to try, do you recommend

this or should I just purchase the pre mixed fertilizer?

A. Unless you have an educated background in this field I would suggest no. There are so

many high quality fertilizers on the market that have paid a lot of money to do research into

their product and they usually have PhD's working for them so I would say it is safe to

assume the probably know what they are doing and will probably get the recipe down a lot

better than the average Joe. But if you really want to then why not, give it a try. If it is just a

hobby you have nothing to lose. You probably can download a good recipe off of the internet

based on what type of crop you intend to grow and you might just do fine so if you really

want to give it a try! If you are on a large scale commercial operation you can hire a

consultant that will help you set up a feeding program that you will be able to blend your self.

This will be much more economical, but for the average home hobbyist would recommend

just buying a pre mixed fertilizer. It is much simpler and they work amazing.

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18. Q. How much dolomite lime do I add to my soil to stabilize PH?

A. When planting, add one cup of dolomite lime to each cubic foot of planting medium to

stabilize the PH and provide calcium and magnesium.

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19. Q. What is Mushroom compost?

A. Mushroom Compost is an inexpensive potting soil and soil amendment that is packed with

organic goodies. Mushroom Compost is sterilized to provide a clean medium for mushroom

growth. After serving its purpose as a mushroom growing medium it is discarded. After lying

fallow for 2 years, mushroom compost is very fertile and packed with beneficial organisms.

The high powered compost could also foster anti-fungicidal and anti-bacterial properties in

foliage and below the soil line, which helps guard against disease. It is packed with bifacial

bacteria that speed up nutrient uptake.

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20. Q. How can I control my soil temperature?

A. . Ideally the soil temperature should be between 65-75 degrees fro the most chemical

activity. Warm the soil with heating cables or soil heat mats. Seedling heat mats are ideal for

this and can be purchased in our online store.

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21. Q. What is coconut fiber and how does it work for growing?

A. Coconut fiber is also called palm peat, coco peat, and coir. Coir is coconut pith, the fibery

part just under the heavy husk. Pith is soaked up in water up to nine months to remove salts,

natural resins and gums in process called "retting". Next they beat the straw brown coir to

extract the husk. Coir is biodegradable and an excellent medium for propagation through

flowering and fruit growth. Coir holds lots of water while maintaining structure. It is durable,

rot resistant and a good insulator.

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22. Q. When is the best time to water my plants? Day or night?

A. Water early in the day so excess water can evaporate from soil surface and leaves.

Leaving foliage and soil wet overnight invites fungal attack

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23. Q. Should I allow any runoff when watering my plants?

A. when you water your plants you should have at least 25% runoff during each watering.

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24. Q. What is a "Mobile Nutrient"?

A. Mobile nutrients re-translocate within a plant. They move to the specific part of the plant

where they are needed causing older leaves to show deficiencies first.

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25. Q. What is an "Immobile Nutrient"?

A. Immobile nutrients stay deposited in their original destination causing new young leaves

to show deficiencies first

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26. Q. What are "Macro Nutrients"?

A. Macro Nutrients are the elements plants use the most. Fertilizers show the NPK

percentage in big numbers on the packaging. These nutrients must be in an available form to

supply plants with the building blocks for rapid growth.

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27. Q. What is the purpose of Nitrogen?

A. Plants love nitrogen and require high amounts of it during the vegetative stage of growth

and lower levels during the balance of life. Nitrogen is easily flushed away and must be

replaced regularly, especially during vegetative stage of growth. Nitrogen regulates the

plants ability to make proteins essential for new protoplasm in the cells. It is essential for the

production of amino acids, enzymes, nucleic acid and chlorophyll and alkaloids. This

important nutrient is mainly responsible for leaf and stem growth as well as size and vigor.

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28. Q. How can I tell if my plants have a nitrogen deficiency?

A. Nitrogen is the most common deficiency. Symptoms include slower growth; lower leaves

cannot provide chlorophyll and become yellow between the veins while veins remain green.

Yellowing progresses through the entire leaf, eventually causing it to die and drop off. Stems

and undersides may turn reddish purple, but this could also be a sign of a phosphorus

deficiency. Nitrogen is very mobile and dissipates into the environment quickly and must be

added regularly to sustain fast growing gardens.

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29. Q. What will happen if I do not have enough light in my room for the amount of plants I

have growing?

A. When Light intensity is too low plants will stretch for it. Low intensity can come from weak

bulbs, light being too far or poor reflectors. Dim light causes sparse foliage and spindly

branches with long internodal spacing. You can increase your yield by giving growing area

uniform light distribution. Uneven light distribution causes strong branch tips to grow toward

the light. Foliage in dimly lit areas is shaded when light distribution is uneven.

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30. Q. I AM NEW TO HYDROPONICS. WHAT DO I NEED TO START?

A. Hydroponics is a fun and satisfying hobby that you will keep adding to your list of items.

To start you will need a hydroponic system, hydroponic nutrients, an inert hydroponic media

(may be dependant on type of hydroponic system), a light source (natural or artificial), time

and plants.

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31. Q. HOW DO I USE RAPID ROOTER PLUGS FOR CUTTINGS?

A. Rapid Rooters work best when in a 50-cell tray. Place a cutting in the small hole on the

top of the Rapid Rooter plug enough where the cutting will stand upright on its own. Place

the tray under proper lighting, then once multiple roots pop out the cutting can then be

transplanted into a hydroponic system or directly into soil.

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32. Q. WHAT ARE COCOTEK PRODUCTS MADE FROM?

A. CocoTek products are made from all organic sources. Coconut fibers are spun together

with natural tree rubber to form the popular CocoTek products.

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33. Q. What Is IBA or rooting Hormone?

A. Indole Butyric Acid is the leading plant hormone used topromote growth of root formations

in plant growth aswell as generate new root growth on cuttings and seedlings.

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34. Q. WHAT ARE EXPANDED CLAY PEBBLES?

A. Expanded clay pebbles are used in hydroponics as a medium to support the plant. They

are chemically inert, do not affect pH and provide excellent drainage. They are made from a

special type of clay, which is heated to a high temperature causing it to pop like popcorn.

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35. Q. WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO CALIBRATE A TDS OR EC METER?

A. Standard reference solutions are used. The bottles are marked with the conductivity (EC)

value in micro Siemens/cm and the corresponding ppm values for sodium chloride (NaCl)

and potassium chloride (KCl) solutions, and sometimes for a "442" reference mixture. The

conductivity of sodium chloride solutions is close to that of hydroponic mineral nutrients, so a

"1000-ppm NaCl" standard is most frequently used when calibrating the meter for hydroponic

solutions. You should follow the calibration instructions in the manual, which the

manufacturer of your meter provided.

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36. Q. WHAT DOES A TDS OR EC METER MEASURE?

A. The electrical conductivity (EC) of your nutrient results from motion of mineral ions when

the meter applies an electrical voltage. The ppM value of a sodium chloride solution happens

to be very close to half of its conductivity value (in microSiemens/cm), so many meters

display the conductivity as an equivalent NaCl amount

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37. Q. HOW DO I CONVERT BETWEEN TDS AND EC READINGS?

A. To obtain an approximate sodium chloride TDS value, multiply the EC reading (in micro

Siemens/cm) by 1000 and divide by 2. To get an EC value, multiply the ppm reading by 2

and divide by 1000. Thus, if your EC is 1: 1*1000/2= 500 ppm. And if your ppm is 500:

500*2/1000= 1 EC

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38. Q. HOW DOES THE TASTE OF HYDRPONIC PRODUCE COMPARE WITH SOIL GROWN

PRODUCE?

A. Hydroponic produce frequently exceeds soil grown produce in terms of flavor and

nutrition. This is because all of the nutrients required by the plant are immediately available

when the plant needs them.

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39. Q. WHY IS GROWING HYDROPONICLY BETTER THAN GROWING IN SOIL?

A. Hydroponic produce is cleaner than its soil grown counterpart, and the grower has the

ability to adjust the nutrient feed for maximal growth and yield in the shortest time.

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40. Q. IS FLORANOVA SERIES ORGANIC?

A. FloraNova Grow and Bloom contain 3-5% organic substances creating the marriage

between mineral and organic gardening.

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41. Q. CAN I FOLIAR FEED WITH GH NUTRIENTS?

A. Of course. Make sure you use a weaker nutrient solution than you would for root feeding.

Avoid foliar feeding in the heat of the day and under excessive sunlight. Generally, the best

times to foliar feed are in the early morning and late afternoon. Make sure you spray the

undersides of the leaves. This is where the stomata or "lungs of the plant" are located, and

where maximum absorption occurs.

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42. Q. CAN GH NUTRIENTS BE USED IN SOIL?

A. Absolutely! All of our nutrient blends contain the necessary elements for plant growth.

Start with the formula ratios identified on the label for the specific plant or crop you are

growing, and then adjust and experiment until you find the right formula for your specific

need.

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43. Q. DO I USE FLORANOVA GROW AND FLORANOVA BLOOM AT THE SAME TIME?

A. Yes and no. The FloraNova series is designed to use one part at a time, but in a time of

transition it may be beneficial to mix the two at half strength each (makes a full strength

nutrient solution). Use FloraNova Grow in the vegetative stage and FloraNova Bloom in the

fruiting/flowering stage. Note: If your plant is not fruiting or flowering plant, FloraNova Grow is

all that you will need to use.

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44. Q. DO I USE MAXIGROW AND MAXIBLOOM AT THE SAME TIME?

A. Yes and no. The Maxi series is designed to use one part at a time, but in a time of

transition it may be beneficial to mix the two at half strength each (makes a full strength

nutrient solution). Use MaxiGro in the vegetative stage and MaxiBloom in the

fruiting/flowering stage. Note: If your plant is not fruiting or flowering plant, MaxiGro is all that

you will need to use.

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45. Q. What is better for a carbon filter? A Can Filter or ODORSOK ?

A. With Carbon filters you are getting what you pay for. Can Filters will last alot longer then

an ODORSOK but cost alot more. ODORSOK's work excellent but will not last aslong as

CanFilter. Both work excellent but CanFilter will last longer so in the long run will be your

best bet, if your on a tight budget and need a quick reliable fix to odor problems then the

ODORSOK is an excellent choice.

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46. Q. CAN-FILTERS- Do I need to replace the pre-filter?

A. It is a good idea to replace the pre-filter when they become dirty because the pre filter is

blocking larger dirt and dust particles from getting into the pore structure of the carbon, a

dirty pre filter increases the pressure, which will decrease the flow through the filter.

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47. Q. CAN-FILTERS - What is the Maximum Temperature/Humidity I can run my filter at?

A. The maximum recommended temperature that you can run your filter at is 80 Degrees

Centigrade, and as soon as your start rising above 70% humidity, the water molecules in the

air start to get stuck in the carbon pore structure and slowly diminish the life of the filter.

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48. Q. What are some important factors to consider when choosing my lighting ?

A. 1. Intensity. The more intensity (quantity) of light the better your plants will grow. By

increasing wattages you are increasing the intensity or quantity of light available for your

plants. As light levels increase environmental concerns must be monitored (heat, CO2,

humidity, and nutrient supply) 2. Spectrum. As light intensity increases, light spectrum

becomes more important. Natural sunlight is intense and has a broad and balanced

spectrum. Indoor plants require the same high intensity and broad but balance spectrum. 3.

Focus. Delivering the light where it is needed is the job of the reflector. Well designed

reflectors utilizing quality materials deliver a higher percentage of the available light where it

is needed and do this with excellent uniformity. Quality reflectors also have a longer service

life