whole beauty - atelier sustainable excellence
TRANSCRIPT
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Inspiring. Driving change.21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 1
Atelier de sensibilisation lexcellence responsable.
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Agenda
Contexte gnral Situation dans lindustrie
horlogre et bijouterie Comment les marques sy
prennent ?
Prsentation du RJC Pistes de rflexion
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Contexte
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Contexte
http://www.cinemovies.fr/afficheg-8956-3.html -
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Contexte
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The Rapaport Fair Trade Conference, in BaselEtc.
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Initiatives et NGO
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Dfis dans lindustrie
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Pays avec des enfants travaillants dans les mines
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Dfis pour lindustrie
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Social - La provenance des diamants (zone de conflits RDC-Kivu, Sierra Leone)
- Les conditions de travail dans les mines (travail des enfants et forc)
- Condition de travail dans les manufactures (chane de production)
- Traitement de certains matriaux (diamants, pierres)
- Corruption, blanchiment dargent
- Contrefaon
Environnement
et faune
- Disparition des ressources naturelles rares (diamants, or, )
- Protection des espces animalires.
- Contamination des eaux (mercure) et la biodiversit. (mines)
- Les processus chimiques de traitement des matires premires.
(galvanisation)
- Packaging, displays, documentation === > dchets
- Transport
- Magasins : ameublement / clairage / etc
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Quels sont lesopportunits ?
Cration de valeur conomie dchelle et optimisation Gestion du risque et mitigation
Amlioration des relations avec lesparties prenantes. Meilleure rputation et image de
marque
Avantage comptitif Plus grande productivit et efficience Nouvelles opportunits daffaires Innovation
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Source : tude Wholebeauty 2009
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Quels sont les freins ?
Pas de compatibilit avec les valeurs duluxe? Un cot, pas un investissement Profitabilit ? Peur du greenwashinget manque decrdibilit Faible pression du march (consommateurs,rgulateurs)
Manque de connaissance, expertise, outils,indicateurs. Complexit de la chainedapprovisionnement
Conservatisme, maximisation du profit Taille et structure des entreprises21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 15
Source : tude Wholebeauty 2009
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Dfis des marques
Comprendre les enjeux. Convaincre le top management. Scurisation des ressources : budget,
quipe. Commencer : O? Comment? Avec qui? Implmentation & gestion du
changement Vivre le dveloppement durable. Mesurer & faire du reporting
Communication21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 16
Source : tude Wholebeauty 2009
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Quel est le
vrai dfi ?Christopher H. Cordey
WholeBeauty@ Sustainable Luxury 2.0
September 28, 2010
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Quel est le vraidfi ?
COMMENT
20
Tirer parti delaugmentation de la
population et de la
consommation et
travailler de manirecollective pour trouver et
implmenter des
solutions pour grer les
consquences ngativesassocies cettecroissance
?
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9 milliards de personnes nourrir en 2050.
Des 3 milliards de personnes en plus
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La migration de masse redistribue la
population mondiale
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Urbanisation: dici 2015 tout devient plus
grand
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Une population vieillissante, mais en meilleure
sant
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Raret des ressources
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Lmancipation la femme
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et Technologies
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Mega trends
1. Lexplosion de la dmographiemondiale et les modifications dedmographies socitales
2. Les changements climatiques et
environnementaux3. La crise nergtique venir4. La globalisation croissante5. Lacclration du dveloppement
exponentiel de la technologie6. Le modle Prvention desmaladies - Extension de la longviten mdecine
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Lexcellence responsable
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Planification, organisation, gestionune compagnie de luxe rentable
dans le respect delenvironnement et lacommunaut, et ainsi contribuer la rduction des missions de
CO2 et au bien-tre de lapopulation.
Prestige. People. Planet. Profit.
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Notre vision
Un monde ouchaque acheteur
dun produit ou unservice de luxe vivra
une expriencedachat la foisextraordinaire et
responsable.Photo : AIM Leader
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Quelle est la
situation danslindustrie du
luxe ?
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Comment rpondent lesmarques de luxe/horlogerie ? 5tapes
1) Dfensif Its not our job to fix that
2) Conformit We will do as much as wehave to 3) Managriale Its the business !4) Stratgique It gives us a competitive
edge 5) Civil We have to make sure
everybody does it !
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Vers lExcellence
Responsable
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JA
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Mais...
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Audemars Piguet
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Quen est-il ?- Campagne Dirty Gold ?
- Conflict free diamonds ?
- Principes dapprovisionnement des
pierres prcieuses ?- Dialogue avec les parties prenantes ?
-Audit de la chaine dapprovisionnement ?
- CITES (bracelets ) ?
- Responsible Jewelry Council ?
- Formation interne ?
- Communication ?
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Etape 2
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Etape 2 : Fred Meyer
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Etape 2 : Gay FreresSAS
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Etape 3
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Etape 3
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http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/our-commitments/eu/fr -
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(*) Source : web Source : Etude Wholebeauty 2009
Etape 3 - 4
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(*) Source : web Source : Etude Wholebeauty 2009
Etape 3 - 4
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Critres Cartier Tiffany&CoStratgie CSR
Objectifs tre un pionnier Style durable
Code deConduite
Comme Richemont Oui
Diamants Kimberley + additionalsystem of guarantee
Kimberley + LaureltonDiamonds
Mtaux prcieux Probablement Specific sourcingpolicy. Pas dor sal.
Position sur les pierresprcieuses birmanes
Effortscollaboratifs
Membre fondateur deRJC
Membre fondateur deRJC, Oxfam,
Earthworks, ARM,IRMA
Autres CITES. Seaweb (marineprotection). CITES.
CDP
Comment comparer?
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Source : Etude Wholebeauty 2009
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Criteria Cartier Tiffany&Co
Programmespcial
MultidimensionnelSocial Comptabilit
programme
quipe CSR CSR manager Inconnu
Communication
Site internet / Rapport Site internet / Rapport
GRI reporting Oui Non
Emphasis(environment)
Produits toxiques,conomie deau,
distribution and nergie
Energie, emballage,biodiversit, eau,
dchetsEmphasis
(social)Droits de lhomme,travail des enfants,
sant et scurit, chanedapprovisionnement,
corruption et
blanchiment dargent
Formation continue,droits de lhomme,philantropie, achats
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Comment les comparer?
Source : Etude Wholebeauty 2009
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Gestion des
risques
Lgal Oprationnel Rputationel Protection de la
marque
Efficience
Rduction ducot du matriel
entrant, nergie,
transport
Increase laborproductivity
Cration de produits
durables
Respecterlvolution des
exigences desclients et des
partenaires
Innover pourchanger le
march
Intgrit duproduit
Les motivations daprs
Rosy Blue
Gouvernance, Gestion, TransparenceSource : Rosy Blue
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Etape 3 - 4
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Etape 5
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RJC Process
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RJC Code of practices
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RJC Principles
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RJC Scope
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Benfices
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Question
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Recommendation
Dcider et mobiliser Oui ou Non (Si Non, quels sont les risques ?) Si, Oui alors
Quelle stratgie ? (C ou S) Quelles ressources ?
Champion interne project manager Budget
Mobiliser (int/ext) pourquoi ? comment ? Analyser, sinformer et comprendre
Situation interne (procdures, diamants, or, lois) +pays concerns
Carte des parties-prenantes. Veille concurrentielle, lgale, etc Les diffrentes initiatives, dont RJC
Sengager pratiquement
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Parties prenantes
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Business
Partners &
Competitors
AdlerEmployees
Shareholders
Parent Co
Insurers
Banks
CEO Peers
Communities
The Future Kids
ClientsDistributors
Competitor
Suppliers
Industry Assoc.
Media
Politicians &
Regulator
Corporate campaigner
Thought leaders
NGOs
Investors &
Risk
Assessors
Rule-Marker
&
Watchdogs
Clients &
Community
Retailers
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Stratgies
Conformit
(suiveur)- Adhrer au RJC
- Self-assessment- Certification RJC+ autres lois,rgles, etc
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We will do as much as
we have to
Managriale/Strat.(leadership
Approche stratgique
- Vision 2022- Mission/Obj/Strat
gies- Soutenir une
initiative(ethical gold
sourcing) Its the business Competitive edge
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Backcasting
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How can we escort youto leverage the benefitsof sustainability in your
organisation ?Christopher H. Cordey
Strategic Catalyst OfficerWholeBeauty SA
Ch. de Terre Bonne 1
1262 Eysins / [email protected]
Fix : + 41 22 550 29 62Mobile : + 41 79 457 37 61
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Christopher H.CordeyAgent du changement
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http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=5825986n&tag=related;photovideo
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Situation dans
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Situation dansle luxe
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Pour chaque secteur dactivit, dites si vous lassociez avec une implication
dans le dveloppement durable?
Source IFOP 2008
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HEC Lausanne
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72% des europens sont favorables au marketingde lux sur Internet (Comit Colert 2009)
Analyse personnelle des 75 membres des sites
internet du Comit Colbert
Design et communications excellents
La durabilit est un lment central
50 ne mentionnent pas le dveloppement
durable 10 y font rfrence implicitement
15 y font rfrence explicitement
Situation actuelle: Communication de la marque
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Ethics and Sustainability in Business - Prof. Christopher H. Cordey
La ralit actuelle ?
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69Ethics and Sustainability in Business - Prof. Christopher H. Cordey
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Quest ce que l
ExcellenceResponsable ?
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Responsable ?
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People Planet
Profit
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Equilibre
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People Planet Profit
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DriversEnjeux
FreinsOpportunits
Dfis
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Drivers
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Drivers
Excellenc
eResponsable
Obligationssocietales &
morales
Cots et profit
Relationcommunaut
Pressions desclients
Rgulations
Actions desconcurrents
Gestion descroyances
Rchauffementclimatique
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Source : Etude Wholebeauty 2009
Enjeux par type
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Enjeux par typede produits
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Source : Etude WholeBeauty. 2009
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http://hbr.org/2010/09/how-i-did-it-timberlands-ceo-on-standing-up-to-65000-angry-activists/ar/1
Qui sont les parties
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Qui sont les partiesprenantes dAudemars Piguet ?
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En conclusions
La consommation tique est encoreune motivation passive duneminoritdacheteurs de luxe; maisgrandissante et puissante!
Elles ont les moyens ($) de sengager. Elles ne sont pas seules ! Ne jamais sous-estimer le pouvoir des
millennials et du web 2.0. Lopportunit existe pour les marques
de luxe de profiter de lexcellencedurable, mais elles doivent relever ledfi
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Etmaintenant
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Conclusion
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Quel est mon rle et ma mission dans lasocit (sens gnral)/sur cette plante ?
Que puis-je faire pour contribuer faire de
cette plante un monde meilleur, plusinclusif, thique, transparent etrespectueux ?
Comment vais-je tre un acteur duchangement et ainsi influencer lesdcisionnaires de mon entreprise ?
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Christopher H.CordeyWholeBeauty SA
Ch. de Terre Bonne 11262 Eysins / Switzerland
www.wholebeauty.c
Fix : + 41 22 550 29 62Mobile : + 41 79 457 37 61
Merci
Nos activits
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INSPIRE Understand what sustainability is all about Understand the brand & sectors sustainability issues
Enlighten the top and mid management Outline the steps toward sustainability
FORMALIZE15 steps : Sustainable Development Strategy
Goals, Vision, Value statement, mission Benchmarking, budget Stakeholders definition, strategy and engagement
Key indicators performance, cost/benefit analysis, Implementation, feedback, optimisation, exit strategy
MOBILIZE Training, Education and incentive program Driving Change Workshop Mobilization Workshop
VITALIZE Review and optimize existing sustainability and CSR initiatives Leverage new opportunities Inspire staff and external stakeholders Encourage public commitment
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Nos activits
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Presentation done by
WholeBeauty SA toMAS-LuxuryManagement
Chopard
September 4, 2009
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Sustainability journey
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DeBeers, Report to society 2007.
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On starting DeBeers
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DeBeers, Report to society 2007.
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On reporting - DeBeers
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DeBeers, Report to society 2007.
?
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How to proceed ?
TowardsSustainableExcellence
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(6) Focus efforts
(3) Vision, Strategy, Budget(5) Drive change,incrementally.
(7) Measureprogress(8) Report/Communicate
(2) Win the topmanagement
(4) Engagestakeholders
www.wholebeauty.ch
(1) Build awareness
O l i
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Our solutions
INSPIRE Understand what sustainability is all about Understand the brand & sectors sustainability issues Inspire, convice and get the top management committed Outline the steps toward sustainability
FORMALIZE 15 Steps : Sustainable Development Strategy
Goals, purpose, value statement, mission Benchmarking, budget Stakeholders definition, strategy and engagement Key indicators performance, cost/benefit analysis, Implementation, feedback, optimisation, exit strategy
VITALIZE Review and optimize existing sustainability and CSR initiatives Leverage new opportunities Drive change Inspire staff and external stakeholders Encourage public commitment
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C l i
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Conclusion
Sustainable development is An art, not a science. A journey, not a quick fix (long term
view)
An investment, not a cost. A way to save costs. A must do not a may be
Now, strategic and progressive Simply good sense and risk
management. Everyones responsibility
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E l i d
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Evolving consumer needs
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There is a marked shift in the buyingpatterns of luxury consumers. Luxury consumers are becoming more
discerning in their purchases. This is also relevant in emerging markets,
like India and China. Brand value comes under closer scrutiny
as luxury moves into harder economictimes
Extending the philosophy of excellencefrom sourcing to disposal. Changes point to a tougher competitive
landscape for luxury players.DeBeers Survey, 2009
The move to discerning
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The move to discerningluxury consumption.
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From what you wear to who you are From Design to Disposal
DeBeers Survey, 2009
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Conclusion
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Dont ask what your country,company or other can do to
improve the state of the planetand the morality of the
business; decide what youwill do at your level to be moreresponsible, respectful and
accountable anddo it.
Adapted from JFK
Economic ValueSocial Value Environmental Value
Optimiz
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HumanResourcesdimension
Reduced environmentalimpact
Process &technologydimension
Enlightened client !
Responsible company Great quality and designproducts
Stakeholdersdimension
Increase income
Guarantee financing Reduce costs and expenses
Financial
dimension
Satisfied employees,distributors and retailers
Brand reputation and image.
Organisation capital (culture,leadership, alignment, teamwork)
Information Capital(IT, information)
Human Capital(Staff, H&S)
Manage risks
Optimized supply chainOptimized social inclusion,responsibility, participation,
collaboration
Optimized financial planningand organisation.SD Vision + Strategy
Optimize
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WholeBeauty Sustainability model www.wholebeauty.ch
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How responsible and
accountable are you ?
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O t iti ?
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Opportunities ?
What if the marketing department becamethe internal and external change agent(in coordination/cooperation with CSRteam) to drive CSR within Swarovski ?
- Benchmarking vs other brands >>>Goodcorporation.com
- Sustainable marketing ? >>> Guidelines + education- Leveraging SCS 400 k members ? >>> Program- Sustainable Event Management ? >>>> Guidelines- Driving change within the organization ? >>>
Education- Formalizing reporting system ? >>> Tool + KPI- Communication ? >>>> Sustainability report.
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S lt
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Survey results (*)
Organisation Structure : CSR coordinator, budget, etc. Norms and principles : ISO (14001 et 9001), UN Global
Compact, ILO Convention, SA 8000. Associations : CRJC, ARM, Colipa, Ore. Growing impact of measurement and communication Sustainable marketing : more and more developped : Communication: web, PR, and annual SRE reporting
Not so much involved (socio)DiversityStaff motivation
PhilantropyCorporate Governance
Not so much involved(enviro)Sustainable event
Sustainable packagingSustainable cleaningCarbon AuditMobility
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(*) Web + one to one interviews, 200 leading luxury and cosmetics brands. 15 % return rate. April 2009.
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Ob t l t CSR
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Obstacles to CSR
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IncompatibilityOstentatious,superfluousExcess and waste
Consumers arenot interestedThis a false belief!
Fear theGreenwashingEnsure deep
integration
Conservatism,GreedFear the unknown
Financial investmentIt is not a cost!
Risks
There are some risks tofail
Lack of expertiseCSR
Weak market pressure
No intense pressurecoming from consumers,legislators, etc
Supply chaincomplexityNumerous suppliers andlack of transparency
Psychological Real
Wh t t
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What we suggest
Meeting CSR responsible
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Corporate Social
Responsibility asa value creation
for luxury
brands.
Content
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Content
1 Wholebeauty : who, what, how
2 What is sustainability ?
3 Sustainability in the luxury industry ?
4 Case study
5 Future directions
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Tiffany & Co
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Tiffany & Co
CSR department ? Team ? Budget ? Seemingly, no communication related to
1. Envrionmental issues : carbon audit, etc,2. Social issues : H&S, diversity, equality,
consumer security, counterfeit, animal welfare,corruption, money laundering.
Lack of : figures. yearly objectives. real reporting. .
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1 Wholebeauty : who, what, how
2 What is sustainability ?
3 Sustainability in luxury industry ?
4 Case study
5 Recommandations stratgiques
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What is Sustainability?
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What is Sustainability?
The economic developmentthat meets the needs of thepresent generation without
compromising the ability offuture generation to meet theirown needs(*)
The Triple Bottom line
People. Planet. Profit.
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(*) Source : Btuntland, 1986
How is todays
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y
inbalance ?
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People Planet Profit
Todays context ?
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Todays context ?
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People Planet
Profit
A sustainable company
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A sustainable company
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People Planet Profit
Triple bottom line
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Triple bottom line
PEOPLE
Sustainable
Bearable Equitable
PLANET PROFITViable
Why luxury brand need to be
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y yconcerned.
Sport is affected by climate change. Sport is inspirational & can be a
leader of change. Sponsors will start to demand it. Regulations will require it.
Costs will become unsustainable.
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1 Wholebeauty : who, what, how
2 What is sustainable development ?
3 Sustainability in the luxury industry ?
4 Case study
5 Recommandations stratgiques
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Global situation
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Global situation
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The Conference Board of Canada, Corporate Social Responsibility Review, p.5
Diamond Road.
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Rapaport
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Events which urged company tot ?
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react ?
Exogenous event Exxon Valdez. Planned eventNGOs
demonstration outside Gap HQ in
San Francisco. ExposStories by investigativereporters Chiquita.
Perceived ThreatTiffany & Co. Perceived Opportunity Body
Shop.
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Types of response
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Types of response
Responders: Bitten Brands BBsreact to a PR disaster by naming a CSRleader. Gap, Chiquita, Wal-Mart.
Reputation Managers Brands moveout to preempt threat. Risk/compliancemanager may report to general counsel.May work closely with industry.
Tiffany & Co. Proactivists Brand sees opportunity to
grow by selling CSR. Timberland, Eileen Fisher, Otto Versand.
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Tiffany & Co. Case
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Iconic brand sells calm.Nothing very bad could happen to you there.
Engine 1:
Conflict Diamonds which led to Kimberley
Process.
Engine 2:No Dirty Gold campaign.
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Tiffany & Co. Case
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://images.motortrend.com/features/auto_news/2006/112_news060607_01s_tiffany_and_company_logo.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www9.discuss.com.hk/viewthread.php?tid=4420220&h=125&w=200&sz=3&hl=en&start=2&tbnid=SQZK5cumjCZHYM:&tbnh=65&tbnw=104&prev=/images?q=+Tiffany+and+co+logo&gbv=2&svnum=10&hl=en -
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y
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- CEO Michael J. Kowalskiand VP Rob Headley
-Council for Responsible
Jewellery Practices-Initiative for ResponsibleMining Assurance
- Etc.
Stakeholders
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Stakeholders
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How to proceed 15 steps
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How to proceed 15 steps
1. Identify business goals and decide upon thepurpose of sustainable development
2. Define value statement and mission ofcompany, and refine internally with
management and employees. How does thelong-term vision match up with businessgoals?
3. Benchmark what your competitors are doing
on CSR?4. Decide on overall budget5. Identify key stakeholders
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How to proceed 15 steps
6. Research: What are the latest businessstandards? Check out SA8000, AA1000,GRI, ILO conventions, WTO discussions,Caux principles, UN Global Compact and so
on. What are the key issues for us as abusiness and why?7. Identify CSR strategy for each stakeholder8. Revise budget accordingly
9. Carry out stakeholder dialogue10. Identify the key indicators to measure our
progress as a socially responsibleentreprise.
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How to proceed 15 steps
11. Identify the costs and benefits of the proposals.12. Implement the activity or program ensuring thatit relates well to other proposals in the pipeline.
13. Research and develop a series ofadvertisements to show what we are doing in thearea of CSR and market the programaccordingly. Ensure that you can back this upwith internal consistent practices since this is adangerous pitfall if that is not the case.
14. Evaluate the social responsibility proposalsagainst cost/benefits.
15. Develop longer-term exit strategy
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Perceived obstacles for
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SD
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Usual response for not walking the talks. Inconsistency with luxury values
Cost/investment are high in period of crisis
Nothing is proven
Fear of greenwashing
Weak market pressure
Lack of expertise, time and KPI
Complex supply chain, we cannot do anything
Conservatism and greed Size of companies
Family run business
If SD was not simply
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If SD was not simply
a great opportunity to revise theway companies do and run
business ? about good risk management ? about good reputation
management ? a great competitive advantage ? a way to save costs ?
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From compliance to
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profit!
M. Brunner, CSM/WWF Research Project: The Business Case for Sustainability, IMD, p.41
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Cercle vertueux
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Cercle vertueux
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Pralables
Engagement
Choixdes
Objectifs
Rflexion
Solutions
Investissements
Retour surinvestissements
R
Boucle de renforcement conduit vers une amlioration continue
Adapt de: G.,Octave & Co, Dveloppement durable, pour une entreprise comptitive et responsable,p153
Rsultats de ltude
O i i
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auprs des marquesOrganisation Ressources organisationnelles: coordinateur RSE, budget, etc. Normes et principes : ISO (14001 et 9001), UN Global Compact, ILO Convention, SA 8000. Associations en lien avec la RSE: CRJC, lARM, Colipa et Ore.
Mesurent limpact et les rsultats de leur stratgie La majorit a recours aux services de consultant ou montre de lintrt Marketing durable:
Les Parfums Givenchy Collection Ange et Dmon Clarins analyse du cycle de vie, lorigine et de limpact des matires premires
Communication: web, relation publiques et rapports RSE
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Manque dimplication sociale
Diversit
Systme de motivation
PhilanthropieGouvernance
Manque dimplication environnemental
Evnement durable
Technique de nettoyage durable
Bilan carboneEmballages responsables
Mobilit dentreprise
Effet boule de neige
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Effet boule de neige
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+ Bonnespratiques
+ Attention desparties prenantes
+Pressionsdes partiesprenantes
Evolution
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Evolution
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WholeBeauty devra sappliquer rpondre ces besoins
Nouveaux BesoinsChanger la faon de percevoir le dveloppement durableComprendre les bnfices (conomiques, environnementaux etsociaux)
Prouver la rentabilit de la RSECrer un modle conomique, un cadre de travailDfinir un instrument de mesureAmliorer la structure et les processus dans lentreprise.Revoir le processus de production et les activitsdapprovisionnement
Contrler les fournisseurs et la traabilit des produitsGagner le support du top managementNommer un responsable/coordinateur en charge de la RSEServices dun consultant Etc.
Moteurs dechangementPression des partiesprenantesConjonctureGlobalisationManagementSocial
Key Success Factors
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Focus efforts
Develop a vision + strategyDrive change and changesteps by steps
Measure progressCommunicate
Towards
Sustainability
CEO & Mgt commitmentEngage ext + intstakeholders
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Changementi l
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incrmental
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Durable
Social
Ecologique
Non-durable
Dveloppementenvironnemental
Dveloppement
socia
l
Adapt de: D. Dunphy & Co, Organizational change for corporate sustainability,p.227
Changementi l
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incrmental
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Durable
Social
Ecologique
Non-durable
Dveloppementenvironnemental
Dveloppement
socia
l
Adapt de: D. Dunphy & Co, Organizational change for corporate sustainability,p.227
Consommateurs
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Consommateurs
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Clients potentiels duluxe
WholeBeauty devra sappliquer rpondre ces besoins
Adapt de: A. Renaudin, When the consumer meets the citizen, what stake for the luxury activity ?, p.5
Consommateurs (2)
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Consommateurs (2)General consumers 71% souhaiterait que les distributeurs choississent de prsenter
uniquement des produits responsable et sont prt payer une primepour ce service (TNS)
LOHAS (Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability) = cible idale
Luxury consumers Conscience envieonnemental et soical chez les consommateur de luxe
(Ifop) 30-40% des clients du luxe souhaiteraient acheter plus de produitsresponsables (De Beers)
Les consommateurs recherchent de la qualit depuis lextraction desmatires premiresjusqu la gestion des dchets
Les consommateurs dsirent simmerger eux-mmes culturellement,socialement et de manire plus philanthropique (De Beers)
Les clients espre une exprience saine lors de haque interraction avec
les marques de luxe (Deeper Luxury) Il sagit encore de motivation passive qui aura besoin dtre dveloppe
par le marketing des marques de luxe
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ClientsMatires
premires
Approvisionnement Production Distribution
Enterprise
Rcupration(distribution inverse)
Nouveau
march
Marketing Mix
Marketing traditionnel Marketing durableP d it R d tt t I t l t i l t i t l ( l d
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Marketing Mix
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Produit - Rpondre aux attentestraditionnelles desconsommateurs- Qualit- Surpasser leurs attentes/dsirs- Offrir du rve
- Intgrer laspect social et environnemental (cycle devie)- Dveloppement cross-fonctionnel- Durabilit et responsabilit- Ressources et matire premires- Mthode DFE- Emballages responsables
Communication
- Atteindre le public cible- Emotion- Crer un univers de marque- Transmettre du rve
- Intgrer des lments rationnels- Eco-communication- Donner une nouvelle dimension au rve- Education des parties prenantes
-Attention la promotion dun idal fminin- Contrler la promotion des produits destins despersonnes majeures (vins et spiritueux)- Respect des donnes prives lies aux clients
Distribution - Distribuer le produit auxconsommateurs
- Optimiser les transports- Minimiser les dchets et la pollution- Distribution inverse (rcupration)- Slectionner des distributeurs responsables- Emballages de transport rutilisable- Mthode DFE
Prix - Exclusivit- Inaccessibilit- Gage de qualit
- Prix = responsabilit et produit durable- Nouveau rapport qualit/prix- Value Based Costing- Allocation des cots = mthode ABCInspir de : Donald A. Fuller, Sustainable Marketing, p, 89, 111, 113,
114
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Where to act ?
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e e to act
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Changement climatique Sant et scurit li aux produits
Produits plus
quitables
Condition de
travail et scuritBnfices pour les
employs (retraite, etc.)
Droits delhommeDurabilit
Pyramide
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y
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Vision
Mission
Code de conduite
Rgles et standards
Activits journalires
Inspir de: Shiseido, Rapport annuel,2006
Its all about ClimateChange
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Change
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TOP 10 ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES :
1. Climate Change
2. Energy
3. Water
4. Biodiversity and land use5. Chemical, toxics,heavy metals
6. Air Pollution
7. Waste management
8. Ozone Layer depletion
9. Oceans and Fisheries
10. Deforestation
Source : Green to Gold, Esty/Winston
What is global warming?
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?
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What is Sustainabledevelopmtent ?
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developmtent ?
- Good sense !- Risk management and
mitigation.- A way to be more
accountable.- Etc
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(*) Source : Btuntland, 1986
Initial conclusions (2)
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( )
Sustainable development is An art, not a science. A journey, not a quick fix (long term
view)
A savings generator An investment, not a cost. A must do not a may be Now, strategic and progressive
Simply good sense Everyones responsibility : we are alla change agent and accountable forour actions.
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Initial conclusions (3)
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( )
Cost savings : Can be generated short, mid, longterm.
Are a consequence of sustainbledevelopment.
Should not be a decision criteria toembed or not sustainable development.
Key Success Factors : Planning, Planning and Planning Time, Time, Time. Good sense, good sense, Good sense. Assessment, measure, optimisation.
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Initial conclusions (4)
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( )
Key Success Factors :
Planning, planning, planning !
Time. Good sense. Continuous effort.
Kaizen = continuous improvement.
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There is still time to avoidthe worst impacts of
climate change, if we takestrong action now
Lord Stern of Brentford, Stern Report, 2006
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21/04/2012 - MCI
Sustainable - mainchallenges
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challenges
Climate change Health and safety products Pension
Employees benefits Human rights
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SWOT: Luxury and CSR
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y
Strengths Weaknesses
Client instruit et attentif
Produit de trs haute qualit
Marges financires : facilite linvestissement
Conscience des problmes
Envie damliorer les choses
Existence of fair trade associations (CRJP, CIBJO,
WBCSD,)
Luxe= Non-rationnelle, superflu et sans limite
Ingalit (riche-pauvre) dans le monde
Epuisement de ressources naturelles rares
Cible des critiques mdiatique
Condition de travail en amont de la production
Manque de connaissance des concepts durable
Entreprises familiales ou de petite taille
Le luxe nest pas en avance
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SWOT: Luxury and CSR
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yOpportunities Threats
Devenir un pionnier
Intrt croissant des consommateurs
Attrait dans les marchs de lest
Intrt des employs
Soutien (gouvernement, banques,)
Crise conomique Changement de valeur
Globalisation (marque/tendance durable)
Amlioration performance conomique
Luxury industry could have a large impact because
of its role as a trendsetter
Inertie, on fait dj assez
Fraude, non respect des rgles en amont
(fournisseur)
Greenwashing
Increasing stakeholderspressure :
-Attaque ONG
-Propagation mdiatique
-Sanction gouvernementale
-La lgislation pourrait devenir plus svre
-
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Legitimacy by sector
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g y y
151 www.wholebeauty.ch4/2012 Source: IFOP, Alain Renaudin
Stakeholders pressure
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Government (norms)
Luxury Brand
Community (local development)
Medias (New trend)
Consumers (responsible luxury)
Shareholders (sustainable investments)NGO(Diamonds, mining, human rights, )
Suppliers (responsible and motivated)Managers / Employees (working conditions,
diversity,)
Retailers (direct contact with clients)
Trade associations (norms&standards)
Overcome hurdels
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Non-sustainablecompany
Sustainable companywhich benefit fromsCSR advantages
Hrudels
Hurdles
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Incompatibility
Ostentatious, superfluous
Excess and waste
Consumers are not interested
This a false belief!
Fear the Greenwashing
Ensure deep integration
Conservatism
Fear the unknown
Financial investment
It is no a cost!
Risks
There are some risks to fail
Weak market pressure
No intense pressure coming
from consumers
Supply chain complexity
Numerous suppliers andlack of transparency
Psychological Real
Benefits
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Rputation Productivity Assurance contre risque sanction Value creation Long term development HR Customer
Profit Stay at the top
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Specific Challenges
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Critical dimensions
Social-La provenance des diamants- Les conditions de travail dans les mines (travail des enfants et forc)
-Condition de travail dans les manufactures (chane de production)
-Non divulgation du traitement de certains matriaux
-Corruption: la haute valeur, la petite taille et la traabilit limite des produits permet
une utilisation non-thique comme le blanchiment dargent.
-Contrefaon
-Protection des espces animalires.
Environment -Disparition des ressources naturelles rares (diamants, or, )
-Le travail des mines peut contaminer leau potable des rgions concerne et menacer
lenvironnement naturel et la biodiversit.
-Les processus chimiques de traitement des matires premires.
-Peu de dchets (cases and boxes...)
Virtuous cycle
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Pralable
Engagement
Choix des Objectifs
RflexionSolutions
Investissement
Retour surinvestissement
Best practices
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Coach Bulgari Shiseido Gucci Tiffany Tods
Swatch Herms LOral LVMH Richemont
Complet sur quelle points: Manque:
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Perspectives
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What if CSR was the mostimportant innovation of the 21th
Century?
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Perspectives
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The economic crisis is a fracture period It can be used as a chance to evolve
We have to move from fast fashion to
slow fashion where goods are createdto endure for decades
Family own buseinss will be slower
New norms: ISO 26000
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New consumers
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General consumers
71% whish that retailers choose to present only green products and are ready to pay for it
(TNS) LOHAS (Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability) = good target
Luxury consumers
Social and environmental conscientiousness in the luxury consumer segment (Ifop)
30-40% of luxury consumers wish to buy more responsible materials (De Beers)
Consumers look for quality form raw material extraction to waste management
Consumers want to engage themselves culturally, socially and be more philanthropic (DeBeers)
Consumers expect healthy experience in each interaction with luxury brands (DeeperLuxury)
It is still a passive motivation which need to be feed by luxury brands
Geographical consumersconcern differences (Globalscan)
United Stated concern about companies treating employees fairly and their environmentalimpact
China is concern about responsible supply chain / Trustworthy companies / Social
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Wholebeauty - offer
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Sustainable luxury
Wholebeauty - offer
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1 Analysis (Risk, Benefits, Budget,)
2 Development of a new Vision
3 Implementation (Initatives, Structure,)
4 Evaluation help (What to look for)
5 Marketing & Communication Strategy
6 Continuing improvement
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Future needs where wecan help!
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can help! Conceptualized framework (Determine where and how to invest)
Strategic integration (culutre, all business units,)
Change mindset
Recrutement : Poor knowledge
Analytical Accounting to determine cost of responsible practces and revenues
Develop leaders on CSR
Control supply chain, decrease complexity
Organization : trade off Long term development vs short term actvites
Mdias : rapporter des info pertinente, non biaise.
Gouvernement : Dduction pour bonne pratique, baisse de limposition !?
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Thank you for your attention!
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Ready to be sustainable?
Back UP
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Vision driven
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Vision
Mission
Code de conduite
Rgles et standards
Activits journalires
How to go there?
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Non-durable
Ecologique
Social
Durable
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Environmental phases
Socialphases
Success factors
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S Sustainable luxury company
Focalise your effort
Keep a visionIncremental change
Measure your resultsCommunicate
5
success factors
Continuousimprovement
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improvement
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Do
CheckAct
Plan
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Consultantdveloppement
durable
Consultantenvironnementaux
Bureaud'ingnieurs
Consultant social
Certification
ONG
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Our services
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Awareness building inspiration. Sustainable corporate strategies.
Operational driving &implementation.
Stakeholder brokerage.
Reputation management.
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Can you reallyafford not to be
concerned ?