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bhaddock June 6,

2012

Survival Sewing

Possessing the knowledge and ability to sew is an essential toolset if you are to survive in the wild for any extended

period of time. Clothing, shelter, shoes, and tools may need to be repaired and often those repairs require basicsewing technique.

Starting and Ending a Stitch

To sew anything, begin by knotting the thread. First, make a slipknot and then run the thread through a section of th

fabric and back through the slipknot hole. Pull tight.

To end a stitch, you “tie off” your thread. Create a loop (a small, loose stitch or use your last stitch as the “loop”) in t

thread by running the thread up through the material and back down through the material. Construct the loop on theunderside of the sewing material to keep the knot out of sight. Run the thread through the loop and pull tight. Befor

pulling tight, you may want to run the thread back through the second loop to create an even more secure terminatin

stitch.

Types of Stitches

Running Stitch – The needle is passed alternately up and down through the fabric with each pass moving a few

threads distance. The shorter the distance between the stitches the stronger the seam will be.

Back Stitch – Similar to the Running Stitch but you

back up slightly after each stitch in a “two steps

forward, one step backward” pattern. This results

in a stronger seam than you would get with a

Running Stitch. Push the needle through the

garment and make a normal Running Stitch. Then,

rather than bringing the needle up through the

garment a several threads further, run the needle

back through the garment and few threads back.

Then execute another normal Running Stitch. Thepattern would be something like six threads forward, three threads back, six threads forward, and so on.

Zigzag stitch – This is a back and forth stitch that is useful for

reinforcing buttonholes, stitching flexible fabrics, temporarily joining two

fabrics, or to fasten down the trimmed edge of fabric to keep it from

unraveling. Moving from right to left, move diagonally to the left taking a

small stitch, then move diagonally to the right with another small stitch.

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Repairing a Ripped Seam in a Shoe

When repairing a ripped shoe seam, you choose the needle based on the work space available. If you can get you

hand behind the seam, use a straight needle. If the seam is near the toe of the shoe, use a curved needle. Use on

or two threads in your stitches.

Try to follow the same holes as the original stitch if possible. Once the repair is made, you can coat the thread with

wax or thick tree sap to make it more water resistant.

Step 1 – First, pry the seam apart until you feel some resistance. Stop and remove the old threads up to the point

where the resistance starts.

Step 2 – Follow the original holes running the thread through the holes to pull the seam back together.

Step 3 – Sew the last stitch two or three times (no knot is needed at the end).

Sewing on New Soles

If the existing leather can be used then use it. If not, use your survival skills to find suitable material (such as animahide).

Step 1 – Soften the leather in a pan of water for a few minutes. This will make it easier to cut and sew the leather.

Step 2 – Wrap the leather in newspaper or cloth and blot up the excess water.

Step 3 – Remove the old sole by lifting it and making small, controlled cuts on the thread to pull and detach it.

Step 4 – Trace around the sole of the shoe and cut out the required leather piece.

Step 5 – Using several nails slightly longer than the combined thickness of the shoe and new sole, nail the sole to th

shoe.

Step 6 – Cut a slight depression or channel where the stitches will go on the bottom of the new sole. This will prote

the stitches from wearing off.

Step 7 – Using the original holes in the shoe as a guide, make holes in the sole from the topside.

Step 8 – Wax a piece of thread about 3 feet long and thread a needle on each end of the thread.

Step 9 – Start with the hole nearest the arch. Pass one of the needles through the shoe hole and through the sole.

Pass the other needle through the sole hole and through the shoe hole. Both needles go through the same hole bu

one needle goes through one way and the other needle goes through the other way.

Step 10 – Continue stitching all the way around the sole.

Step 11 – Repeat the last stitch three or four times and cut off any excess thread.

Step 12 – Remove the nails.

Step 13 – Apply wax to the needle holes and along the stitches.



Stitching up a Seam

First, identify whether you are repairing a regular seam or a flat-felled seam. A flat-felled seam is one where the edg

have been rolled under each other to cover the raw edges. Flat-felled seams more common in garments that get

washed frequently (such as shirts).

Regular Seam

Step 1 – Pull the edges of the garment flat, matching the “raw” seam edges to each other. Starting at a point where

the stitching is still solid (slightly before the beginning of the tear), take back stitches along the seam line. You shoul

be able to follow the pricks and the fold of the earlier stitching; if not, eyeball it so that you’re going in a straight line.

Step 2 – Continue the stitching until you are slightly past the point where the stitching is missing; for the last section

be sure to keep to the existing stitching line.

Step 3 – When you have finished the stitching, secure your thread by sewing a knot.

Intact Flat-Felled Seam

If the actual seam is intact (you can’t poke your finger through the hole), you’ll just need to stitch down the folds.

Step 1 – Tuck the seam extensions securely into their pre-existing folds – this is usually just a matter of tucking the

folds that are already there a little more tightly. If you are working with natural fibers, you probably will not need pins

to hold the folds in the fabric. Pinch them down with your fingers; dampening your fingers will help hold the creases

even better.

Step 2 – Starting at a point where the stitching is still solid (slightly before the beginning of the tear), whip stitch alon

the seam line.

Step 3 – Continue stitching until you are past the point where the felling is loose, and secure your thread by sewing

knot.

Not Intact Flat-Felled Seam

Step 1 – Fold the seam allowance to one side. If one side is narrower than the other, fold them so that the narrow on

is under the wider one. If they’re the same width, fold them towards the ridge formed by the existing portions of the

seam. If there are creases in the seam allowance from its former folds, they should stick up.

Step 2 – Fold the upper seam allowance around the lower one (if the lower one is narrower) or, if they’re the same

width, fold both seam allowances under.

Step 3 – Proceed as directed for repairing the folds of a flat-felled seam.

Repairing a Hem

Hems involve a double fold to protect the raw edge of the fabric; repairing a hem is very similar to repairing the fold

a flat-felled seam as described above.

Step 1 – Fold the hem into place, following the creases that probably exist in the garment. If it’s gone so long

between repairs that you can no longer find the creases, eyeball the folds based on the edges next to the missing



Darning

First, find thread or yarn that matches the fabric in color, fiber content, and texture; you can use linen or cotton threa

for most applications, while wool yarn is best for wool stockings. Choose a darning needle – look for a large eye. A

tapestry needle may also be used for stockings, although it won’t work as well for other garments.

Darns go on the wrong side of the garment; if you’re darning a stocking, turn it inside-out.

If darning a stocking, place a darning egg inside it and position the hole over the egg. Your needle will glide smooth

over the egg’s surface, making your stitching go faster. If there is no darning egg available, any hard rounded object

(such as a smooth rock) will work. If darning a flat garment, work against a table or other hard flat surface.

Thread the needle with the yarn or thread and leave the end unknotted. The darning process should create a tight

weave that makes knots unnecessary.

Step 1 – Start your work on either side of the hole. Take several small vertical running stitches in the intact fabric of

the garment, about 1/2 inch to the left or right of the hole. Turn the garment upside down and make another row of

stitches next to the first. Keep your stitches even – try to pick up a single thread per stitch, if possible. This will make

the darn sturdier and more even.

Step 2 – When you reach the point at which the hole begins, your stitching line should extend from 1/2 inch above th

hole to 1/2 inch below it. Think of drawing a rectangle around the hole with your darn, and keep the sides of the

rectangle relatively equidistant from it.

Step 3 – Continue making vertical running stitches. When your stitching reaches the hole, take your thread or yarn

over the hole and into the fabric on the other side, forming what resembles a vertical bridge over the hole. Stitching

should extend 1/2 inch beyond the hole at both the top and bottom edges.

Step 4 – Once you have covered the hole with vertical threads and extended the stitching 1/2 inch past it so that bosides of the hole look identical, take a tiny stitch across the corner of the rectangle of stitches you have just created

Step 5 – Take the threaded needle and weave it under and over the vertical threads that cover the hole (as well as

the vertical threads that lie within 1/2 inch of the hole).

Step 6 – Turn the garment upside down once you reach the opposite end of the hole, and weave another thread nex

to the first, making sure you go under the threads you formerly went over, and vice-versa. You are, in effect, re-

weaving the fabric that is missing. Make these rows very tight together – use your fingers to pack them closely, if

necessary.

Step 7 – Continue stitching back and forth until you’ve completely filled the hole. Trim excess thread. No knots arenecessary if you work the stitching correctly.

Patching

Patches are applied to the inside of the garment. Ideally a patch will very closely match the garment; the goal is for

the patch to be as unobtrusive as possible.



Step 1 – Cut a patch that is sufficiently large to extend beyond the damage and permit it to be sewn to sound cloth.

Step 2 – Fold under the cut edges of the patch and pin it to the inside of the garment, allowing it to overlap beyond t

edges of the damage.

Step 3 – Stitch down the patch with a whip stitch or blind stitch.

Step 4 – Turn the garment to the outside and secure the edges of the damage to the patch with a zigzag stitch.

If you prefer, you may cut back the damaged area close to the edges of the patch, turn the edges under, and whipstitch them to the patch. This finish gives the appearance of a flat-felled seam.

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