WineMag.com | 1

BUYING GUIDENOVEMBER 2012

2 CALIFORNIA

25 NEW YORK

29 WASHINGTON

36 OTHER NORTH AMERICA

39 ARGENTINA

40 SOUTH AFRICA

42 BURGUNDY

56 VENETO

68 SPAIN

75 SPIRITS

77 BEER

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM

Cabernet Franc grapes being harvested at Veramar’s vineyard in Shenandoah Valley, Virginia.

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2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

CALIFORNIA

CHARDONNAY

96 Del Dotto 2009 Cinghiale Vineyard Fami­ly Reserve Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast).

Rich and complex, this dry, terroir-driven wine com-pletely avoids the sweet butter creaminess and jammi-ness of so many Chardonnays, showcasing instead notes of tropical fruits and pears. It’s framed by minerals and even a fresh herbaceousness that suggests the wild plants growing around this Sonoma Coast vineyard. While the oak influences are strong, they are perfectly in keeping with the underlying volume. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $125

95 Del Dotto 2009 Cinghiale Vineyard Ge­rard’s Blend Chardonnay (Sonoma

Coast). This is so dry, minerally and richly complex, you’d swear you were drinking great French Chablis. Brisk acidity and a steely stoniness give the apricot and citrus fruits a backbone of iron and iodine. Oak is there, but subtly lurking in the background, lending a hint of buttered toast. A beautiful wine, classy and upscale for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $85

94 Boheme 2009 Taylor Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This shows

the streamlined acidity and minerality of a fine coast-al Chardonnay, as well as the dryness. But the ripeness is impressive, suggesting notes of Key lime pie, lemon meringue and ripe, sweet kiwi, with subtle oak influ-ence. An impressive wine from start to finish. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

92 Byron 2010 Nielson Vineyard Chardon­nay (Santa Maria Valley). For full review

see page 7.abv: 14.8% Price: $32

90 Byron 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see page 9. Editors’

Choice. abv: 14.9% Price: $27

90 Monticello Vineyards 2010 Estate Char­donnay (Oak Knoll). This boasts appealing

tropical fruit flavors that have been generously oaked. The honey quality lends smoothness and a round mel-lowness, and the finish is quite dry. It shows a softness some may fault, but this is ultimately delicious, and it will be a great accompaniment to rich shellfish. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $28

90 Olabisi 2010 Ceja Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). The cooler vintage favored this

Chardonnay, giving it brisk acidity and ripe flavors of citrus and tropical fruit. Oak has dominated this bottling in the past, but with the 2010 vintage, it plays only a supporting role, lending a hint of buttered toast. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

90 Rodney Strong 2010 Estate Vineyards Chardonnay (Chalk Hill). For full review

see page 10. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

89 Chalk Hill 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Chalk Hill). Exceptionally ripe, this has notes

of tropical fruits, apricots and pears, with a glorious coating of sweet, smoky, buttered toast from the oak.

It’s pretty obvious in its appeal, and it will be enjoyed by many for its vast richness. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $48

89 Clos La Chance 2010 Murphy’s Choice Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains).

Lots of acidity gives this Chardonnay a real bite, while the fruit is very ripe, expressive of pineapples, tanger-ines and Meyer lemons. The result is a flavor of sour yellow candy, enriched with the creaminess of lees and a buttered toast note from the oak barrels. Drink with rich, buttery shellfish entrées. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

87 Blondie 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Even though this is a bit one dimensional, it’s

delicious, polished and appealing, offering flamboyant tropical fruit, butterscotch, buttered toast and spice fla-vors. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $19

87 Cinnabar 2011 Chardonnay (Monterey). Seemingly slightly sweet, this is sophisticated

enough to drink with upscale fare. The price is good, considering the richness of its oak-inspired citrus, tropi-cal fruit and butter-cream flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

87 Hanna 2011 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Made in the popular

style, this features ripe orange, lemon, lime and guava flavors, highlighted by brisk acidity and made rich with a buttered toast note and creamy lees. It’s an elegant, appealing Chardonnay for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

Continued on Page 14

UNITED STATES

A s the holidays approach and our minds turn to get-togethers and entertaining, we traditionally fill our November issue with ar-ticles on the best wine values and smart buys to help get you

through the season. The wines reviewed for this issue generally reflect the same intention, but also include a look at the growing diversity of domes-tic selections.

With American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) in 31 states, the American wine industry continues to blossom, offering wines of character and dis-tinction from all across the country. Patriotism is high because of the pres-idential election and Thanksgiving, making this a perfect time to promote drinking locally.

California remains the major player domestically, being the source of ap-proximately 90% of all U.S. wine. It is also the world’s fourth leading wine producer after France, Italy and Spain. Variety abounds, with more than 3,500 wineries, nearly 550,000 acres of wine grapes and 115 AVAs, offer-ing something to suit just about every wine lover’s taste.

Washington is the nation’s second-largest wine-producing state. The

state’s 12th AVA, Naches Heights, went into effect in January 2012, and wine grape acreage has been growing steadily from year to year. Although most of the state’s producers focus on ultrapremium wines, many Wash-ington wines still represent impressive value.

This month’s Buying Guide also features reviews from currently trendy locales like New York and Virginia, as well as selections from emerging wine-producing states like Michigan, Missouri, New Jersey, New Mexico, Ohio and Texas.

Although the United States takes center stage in this issue, the sup-porting cast includes several international players. European Editor Roger Voss assesses the latest crop of Burgundies, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner takes us through Spain and Italian Editor Monica Larner re-views classic wines of the Veneto, including some stellar Amarones.

You’ll also find reviews from South Africa and Argentina to round things out, but as always, be sure to check out buyingguide.winemag.com for our complete database of over 123,500 reviews.

Cheers! —Lauren Buzzeo

AMERICA THE BEAUTIFUL AND BOUNTIFUL

96 Diamond Creek 2009 Gravelly Meadow Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun­

tain). Rich and powerful, with a molten intensity, this has loads of blackberry and cherry jam flavors, yet it has a minerally earthiness that grounds it and makes it end-lessly complex. With its tannic profile and sweet oak jacket, this defines Napa Valley Cabernet—particularly from the mountains. If you can keep your hands off it, this will develop over the next 10–20 years. Cellar Se-lection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $175

96 Diamond Creek 2009 Volcanic Hill Cab­ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).

This shows the Diamond Creek signature of dryness, mountain tannins and voluptuously ripe, concentrated fruit. It’s dense in blackberry jam and cassis flavors, with firm minerality and a lush toast note from the oak. Near perfection in all of its parts, it possesses those hard-to-define qualities of balance and elegance. Wonderful as it is now, the tannins suggest aging it for many years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $175

96 Gramercy Cellars 2009 Lagniappe Syrah (Columbia Valley). This has astonishing

depth of flavor, with dense black fruits marbled with notes of smoked meat, clove, balsamic and an earthy flavor. It’s a wine to savor and cellar. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $45

96 Nickel & Nickel 2009 Martin Stelling Vine­yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Un-

believably rich and delicious, this is a joy to drink. It continues the winery’s long record with this vineyard, reaching toward its apex with this 2009. Made from 100% Cabernet and aged in nearly two-thirds new French oak, it’s elaborate, layered and complex, offering juicy notes of blackberry, black currant and dark choco-late, with sweet toast and vanilla flavors that continue onto the spicy finish. If you can keep your hands off it, this will develop over the next 10–15 years. Cellar Se-lection. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $155

96 Vine Cliff 2009 16 Rows Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak­

ville). As good as the winery’s regular 2009 Cabernet is, this small-production selection from the estate vineyard is even better. However, as the tannins are fierce, it’s not a wine you want to drink anytime soon. Through the astringency shines a bright, burning core of perfectly ripe blackberries and savory black cur-rants. Flashy and impressive, this 100% Cabernet should begin to soften and mellow after 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $150

95 Dal Forno Romano 2006 Amarone del­la Valpolicella. Dal Forno delivers one of

the world’s most impossibly rich and concentrated red wines. Using grapes sourced from the high-density Monte Lodoletta vineyard, this inky, dark expression oozes with syrupy tones of maraschino, dark chocolate fudge, cinnamon spice, crushed clove and barbecue smoke. In keeping with the wine’s legendary reputation for long aging potential, the tannins are rock solid at the moment. Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $530

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The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Associate Editor Andrew Hoover, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa.

If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.

Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALSAll tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.

ABOUT THE SCORESRatings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances.

Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed.

SPECIAL DESIGNATIONSEditors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent

quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention.

Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.

Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less.

SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEWProducts should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.

LABELSLabels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net.

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

95 Diamond Creek 2009 Red Rock Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun­

tain). The ripest of Diamond Creek’s new ’09 Caber-nets, Red Rock shows a sun-blasted quality of red cur-rants, blueberry and cassis. Heady and exotic, this is rich in tannins and noble in acidity. While it’s a joy to drink now and over the next eight years, its extreme ripeness may limit its longterm ageability. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $175

95 Kadiem 2009 Inaugural Vintage Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a really im-

pressive launch for this new brand. Although the bottle doesn’t bear a vineyard designation, it’s 100% Cabernet from the Morisoli Vineyard in Rutherford, which has produced superb Cabernets in the past from the likes of Meander, Galleron, V. Sattui and Sequoia Grove. Dry and full bodied, it has flavors of sour cherry candy and cassis that often define Rutherford, which are all wrapped into smooth, supple tannins. Beautiful as it is now, it’s a wine you want to lay down. Best after 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $85

95 Lauren Ashton 2009 Cuvée Arlette (Red Mountain). This is a stunning Bordeaux-style

blend of 57% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 2.5% each of Petit Verdot and Malbec. Tight, dark and dense, it showcases the de-tailed styling that epitomizes the Lauren Ashton port-folio. Perfectly ripe and perfectly proportioned, it has the power and tannin to age for decades. Cellar Selec-tion. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $50

95 Le Salette 2008 Pergole Vece (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). The fruit-

driven intensity and general youthfulness of this Ama-rone promise a very long future. It’s well-built and bold, with a rich, chewy mouthfeel and lively aromas of leath-er, spice, plum, dark fruit and tobacco. It goes down beautifully, leaving a long endnote of divine chocolate fudge. Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $132

95 Mark Ryan 2009 Lonely Heart Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Pure, dense and

deep, this captures the pure essence of Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. Berry and cherry flavors surface in equal proportion, with more rock than barrel add-ing complexity throughout the finish. Excellent depth and structure suggest that this is one to put down for a decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $80

95 Mark Ryan 2009 Long Haul Merlot­Cab­ernet Franc­Malbec­Petit Verdot (Red

Mountain). A blend of 64% Merlot and 27% Cabernet Franc, with splashes of Malbec and Petit Verdot, this is built for the long haul. Raspberries, cherries and rich chocolate run through this fine-tuned, focused wine. It’s deep, elegant and penetrating, with a show-stopping layer of pure mineral that is so powerful the fruit seems soaked in rock. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $48

95 Summers 2009 Checkmate Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). This is

easily one of the most delicious Cabernets of the year. The first sip dazzles, offering a treasure chest of flavors, including blackberry, spice, mocha and toasted oak. For all the richness, the wine is properly dry, and the tan-nins are as smooth as old silk. It’s so approachable, it’s hard to believe it’s from Diamond Mountain, whose tan-nins are notoriously hard in youth. The one drawback is that the wine is too soft for aging, but who cares? Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $100

94 Brian Carter Cellars 2009 Opulento Des­sert Wine Touriga­Souzao­Tinto Cão (Ya­

kima Valley). Opulento is made entirely with authen-tic Portuguese varieties, based on 60% Touriga Nacio-nal. It’s truly Port-like in flavor, showing deep notes of black cherry and cassis fruit. Smooth and supple, this is thoroughly delicious and should not be missed. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 19% Price: $20/375 ml

94 Lauren Ashton 2009 Cuvée Mirabelle (Red Mountain). This is mostly Syrah, with

10% each Grenache and Mourvèdre. Fat and beefy, it starts with a scent of fresh carpaccio around dense black cherry fruit. Lush and generous, with notes of both fruit and barrel, it adds streaks of coffee and cacao that wind through a long and beautifully defined finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $52

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94 Lauren Ashton 2009 Proprietor’s Cuvée (Red Mountain). Dense and dark to the point

of being slightly liqueur-like, it bursts with notes of rich black fruit, licorice, tar, smoke and espresso. The wine seems to hang on the palate for an extraordinarily long time, continuing on like an endless coal mine. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $50

94 Louis Latour 2010 Corton­Charlemagne. Richly structured, this wine is all texture at this

stage—although the rich fruit lingers underneath. Ap-ple, pear and citrus fruits give this opulent, powerful wine its freshness. This has a great future ahead. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $130

94 Louis Latour 2010 Montrachet. Using grapes sourced from the greatest white-wine

vineyard in Burgundy, this is huge, dense, very rich and complex. The balance already shows in the wine’s acidity, ripe yellow fruit and round texture. Wood aging brings notes of spice and toast. This will age for many years. Louis Latour Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $430

94 Mark Ryan 2009 The Dissident Merlot­Cabernet Sauvignon­Syrah­Malbec­Petit

Verdot (Columbia Valley). This is a Merlot-domi-nant blend, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec and Petit Verdot in supporting roles. The voluptuous nose introduces a riot of blue and purple fruit flavors—a comingling of berries and plums. Streaks of fresh herb, mocha and cacao enter gracefully, leading onto the rich, deep and lusciously long finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $32

94 Nickel & Nickel 2009 Branding Iron Cab­ernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Beautiful in ev-

ery respect, this has ripe flavors of blackberries, blue-berries and cassis. It shows the classic Oakville struc-ture of firm, hard tannins, elegance and ageworthiness. Made from 100% Cabernet, it will reward holding until at least 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $100

94 Nickel & Nickel 2009 State Ranch Cab­ernet Sauvignon (Yountville). Bone dry

yet sweet in fruit, it shows the acids and tannins of this cool section of Napa Valley, which gives such excellent structure to the ripe blackberry and blueberry fruit. It feels vital, offering a different impression with every sip. Wonderful to drink now but capable of aging; drink now–2019. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $100

94 Sabina Vineyards 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Showing the tan-

nins this estate bottling is known for, this is quite astrin-gent despite the fabulous wealth of fruit flavors, which include ripe blackberries, sweet cherries, savory cur-rants and anise liqueur, with a hint of Provençal herbs. Despite the hardness, this shows elegance and opulence that put it into the top ranks. Drink now–2016, at the very least. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $100

94 Sebastiani 2009 Cherryblock Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). The winery

has been producing this bottling for many years, and this is possibly the finest ever. It’s soft, but not too soft, ripe, but not too ripe, and exquisitely flavorful, offer-ing tiers of red cherries, cocoa and bacon, enhanced with smoky, sweet new oak. It’s a fine wine to drink with grilled steak. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $90

94 Soos Creek 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vine­yard Red Wine (Red Mountain). This blend

is 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc and 22% Merlot, using grapes sourced entirely from this iconic Red Mountain vineyard. Notes of spice and iron interplay with tightly wound berry and cassis fruit. This is a steely, muscular wine, with an underpinning of graphite. History has proven that it will age beautifully. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

94 Speri 2008 Vigneto Monte Sant’Urbano (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico).

From one of the Valpolicella’s best producers, this vine-yard-designate Amarone is amazingly soft and velvety, with aromas of softly worn leather, moist chewing to-bacco, ripe black cherry and barbecue smoke. It’s an elegant but modern rendition, showing power, inten-sity and impressive length. Best yet, the fruit is young enough to promise more years of graceful aging. Emp-son (USA) Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $80

94 Vine Cliff 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). This wine is always impressive,

but its degree of greatness is vintage driven, suggest-ing its extreme sensitivity to the Oakville terroir. The 2009 is ageable and concentrated, better than the 2008 but falling short of the 2007, which approached perfec-tion. Dry and tannic, it’s rich in blackberries, black cur-rants and dark chocolate flavors. The long, spicy finish only hints at the intensity. Hold until 2015, and it should have a long life for many years beyond. Cellar Selec-tion. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $85

93 Alder Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). Young, supple and

stylish, this mixes notes of berry, plum and cassis, dem-onstrating poise and richness. The barrel flavors are smoothly integrated; the finish is rich and dark, with a strong streak of cacao. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

93 Bertani 2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Bertani is Amarone’s ultimate am-

bassador. This is a focused wine and has been carefully consistent over the years. Bertani has always portrayed appassimento—wine made from air-dried grapes—in the most sophisticated and elegant way. This expression shows exotic spice, dried fruit, cola and leather aromas. It could age for 10 years or more. Palm Bay Interna-tional. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $110

93 Chandon NV Étoile Brut (Napa­Sonoma). This blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot

Meunier is fancy, elegant and enjoyable to drink now. It has that indefinable quality of luxe, bearing a smooth, creamy texture, with rich fruit, yeast and toast complexi-ties. With a production of 5,000 cases, it should be rela-tively easy to find. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $40

93 Conn Creek 2008 Collins Holystone Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Hele­

na). Made from 100% Cabernet grown on the valley floor north of St. Helena, this shows ripe, velvety flavors of blackberry jam, cassis and dark chocolate, wrapped into firm but soft tannins, with a pleasing warmth from the alcohol. Drink over the next four years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

93 Dal Forno Romano 2007 Valpolicella Su­periore. Romano Dal Forno applies the same

stringent quality standards on his so-called base wine as he does his top-tier Amarone. But referring to this Val-policella Superiore as a “base wine” couldn’t be more in-correct. In fact, this singular expression occupies its very own category in which the utmost attention is paid to the smallest details. It opens with dark, inky concentra-tion and amazing intensity, with black cherry, barbecue spice, leather and tobacco. Vias Imports. Cellar Selec-tion. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $129

93 El Nido 2009 Red Wine (Jumilla). Dense, cool and masculine on the nose, this has aro-

mas of prune, cola, tobacco, cheese and leather. It feels silky and soft, showing maximum ripeness and excellent balance. It tastes of ripe berry, stewed plum, spice and tobacco. Complex and classy on the finish; drink now–2017. Gil Family Estates. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $140

93 Lauren Ashton 2009 Syrah (Red Moun­tain). This is a precisely detailed wine that

shows impeccable craftsmanship. The fruit is firm and balanced, pairing pure black cherry and cassis flavors with darker barrel notes of cacao and espresso. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $43

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93 Louis Latour 2010 Château Corton Grancey (Corton). A firm, powerful wine,

its tannins still very dominant. Acidity is a factor, along with deep red-plum fruit. Some sweetness will develop in the next several years, although this concentrated and complex wine will also have a solid core of dry, struc-tured tannin. Age for at least five years. Louis Latour Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $130

93 Luigi Righetti 2006 G&G (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This dark Amarone is

savory and spicy, with rosemary, forest floor and bram-ble notes. Fresh fruit and dark cherry aromas make for a nice balance, but overall it demonstrates an elegant, herbal side. The tannic structure is fine and firm, and there’s enough crisp acidity to carry this wine for 10 years or more. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Cellar Se-lection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $160

93 Mark Ryan 2009 Dead Horse Cabernet Sauvignon­Cabernet Franc­Malbec­Mer­

lot­Petit Verdot (Red Mountain). This Bordeaux-style blend is Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated, showing vivid red fruits, with drying, somewhat leafy tannins. It has an earthy foundation and impressive length, it just needs more bottle age to fully integrate its flavors. Cel-lar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $52

93 Oakville Winery 2010 Estate Zinfandel (Oakville). One of the best Zins now on the

market, this is rich, showing gorgeous flavors of black-berries, raspberries and cola, with notes of cured meat, black pepper and sandalwood. The tannins are pure Oakville—refined and complex. Only 500 cases were produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

92 Benovia 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Using grapes sourced from four high-

quality vineyards, this shows deeply layered raspberry, cherry, cola and mushroom flavors, with no trace of the unripeness that marred some other coastal wines from this cool vintage. Drink it over the next six years before the fruit fades. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $38

92 Brian Carter Cellars 2009 Corrida Tempranillo­Merlot­Cabernet Sauvignon­

Garnacha­Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). Based on Tempranillo, this red blend is filled out with 15% Merlot, 7% Grenache, 8% Cabernet Sau-vignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. It’s the best Cor-rida yet, concentrated, compact and lightly smoky. Dense boysenberry fruit anchors the core, with a deep brambly flavor that’s reminiscent of old-vine Zinfandel. The dark, plush finish lingers sensuously. Ed-itors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

92 Brian Carter Cellars 2007 Solesce Red Wine (Yakima Valley). Composed of 50%

Cabernet Sauvignon, with other Bordeaux varieties in the mix, this spent 30 months in barrel and 18 months in bottle prior to release. The dense, tannic Red Moun-tain fruit remains firm and compact, creating a wine that needs to be decanted. The layers of berry, cassis, leaf, bark, earth and spice are balanced and tight. Cellar Se-lection. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $60

92 Byron 2010 Nielson Vineyard Chardon­nay (Santa Maria Valley). Santa Maria

Valley’s terroir shines through in this Chardonnay’s brisk, mouthwatering acidity and fruit purity. The bright, vibrant guava and citrus flavors are enriched with a coating of sweet, smoky oak. There’s a fascinating minerality, like a lick of sandstone rocks, that boosts its complex appeal. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $32

92 Conn Creek 2008 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made

from 100% Cabernet grapes grown in this highly re-garded vineyard that straddles Atlas Peak, this is dry, full bodied and softly rich in tannins. It has a fruity essence and a toasty sweetness that’s driven by the oak, making it delicious. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

92 Jorge Ordoñez & Co. 2008 Victoria 2 (Málaga). This opens with pure, attractive nec-

tarine and apricot aromas, along with hints of mineral and petrol. It feels pure and racy, with delicious, clean flavors of pineapple, honey and mango. It’s delicate and fresh on the finish, with just enough weight to be taken seriously. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $26/375 ml

92 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Côte de Beaune. This blend of premier crus and some village

Côte de Beaune shows generous red-cherry fruit and a touch of acidity. Its depth of richness and complexity highlight its fine origins. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35

92 Lauren Ashton 2011 Cuvée Méline (Co­lumbia Valley). Excellent texture and overall

balance typify all of the wines from this exciting new producer. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, this brings a mix of melon, apple, herb and grass into play. Zippy, citrusy acids add zesty minerality as the wine rolls into a rocking finish, with just a hint of barrel toast. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $28

92 Lauren Ashton 2011 Rosé of Sangiovese (Columbia Valley). The Sangiovese comes

from Red Willow Vineyard, and it would be hard to find a more lovely, elegant rosé from this side of the Atlan-tic. Light strawberry and melon aromas continue onto the palate, with pinpoint detail and precision. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $18

92 Lauren Ashton 2011 Roussanne (Colum­bia Valley). This stylish, well-defined Rous-

sanne is crisp as a cucumber, with fruit flavors of citrus, green berry, apple and melon. This is immaculate and beautifully balanced. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $25

92 Nickel & Nickel 2009 Hayne Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Right

now, the tannins are so fierce, they overshadow the jam-my blackberry and cassis flavors. With such an elegant construction and balance, there’s no reason it shouldn’t develop in the bottle over the next 8–10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $100

92 Oakville Winery 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). This is ripe and com-

plex, with thick tannins that frame flavors of blackber-ry, cherry jam and a hint of violet. Give it an hour or two in the decanter, or cellar it for a few years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

92 Tangent 2011 Paragon Vineyard Viognier (Edna Valley). As Barbara Streisand might

have said, “Hello, gorgeous.” With brisk acidity that’s almost tingly, this is basically dry, yet the exotic tropical fruit, peach and honeysuckle flavors are so pure, ending with a sweet finish. It’s the perfect accompaniment to Asian-fusion fare. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

92 Tedeschi 2007 Capitel Monte Olmi (Am­arone della Valpolicella Classico). This is

easy to recognize thanks to its distinctive intensity and opulence. This 2007 may be the best bottling yet. It oozes with sweet flavors of cardamom, cinnamon, crushed clove, nutmeg and all kinds of ripe berry fruit. There’s a firm tannic bite on the finish, which is fol-lowed by long-lasting succulent sweetness. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $95

WineMag.com | 9

91 Apex 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia Val­ley). This opens with enticing aromas of toast-

ed hazelnut, Key lime and white peach. The firm, con-trolled palate is concentrated and long, offering vivid, precise fruit and a tasty hint of skin phenolics. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $17

91 Cadaretta 2011 sbs Sauvignon Blanc­Semillon (Columbia Valley). A blend of

75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sémillon, this definite-ly reflects the cool 2011 vintage in its steely tension. The clean green-fruit flavors are well defined and high-lighted with notes of grassy herbs and saline mineral-ity. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $23

91 Gary Farrell 2009 Hallberg Vineyard Pi­not Noir (Russian River Valley). Sleek and

elegant, showing a great sense of control, the cherry and currant fruits are strong, yet restrained, pulled in by crisp acidity and taut tannins. It should develop over the next six years or so. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

91 Lauren Ashton 2011 Chardonnay (Co­lumbia Valley). Leesy and nicely textured,

this has lime and green apple notes that rest on a bed of bracing acidity. It has length, focus and detail, all with-out intrusive new oak—just a small percentage of the wine was barrel-fermented. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $25

91 Thurston Wolfe 2008 The Geologist Pre­mium Red Wine (Washington). A Bordeaux-

style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Merlot, this remains quite youthful, with its flavors of barrel aging still prominent. Substantial, brambly berry fruit is bolstered by stiff tannins, streaked with notes of loam, graphite and smoke. The structure, depth and balance are all in place, it just needs more time to consolidate. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Bertani 2009 Villa Arvedi (Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena). This is Bertani’s

modern interpretation of what is one of Italy’s most steeped-in-tradition wines. The full and generous bou-quet is redolent of ripe cherry, leather, tobacco, cola and grated licorice. The gorgeous mouthfeel is intense and smooth. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $55

90 Byron 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Rich, spicy and oaky, this exudes a

honeyed quality along with pineapple and lemon me-ringue notes. The brisk Santa Maria acidity provides clean, mouthwatering balance. Pair this opulent Char-donnay with lobster, shrimp and salmon. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $27

90 Cadaretta 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Brambly berry fruit, with

a hint of herb around the edges, marks this wine. Along with the Cabernet, there are smaller amounts of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, showing well-in-tegrated barrel notes of coffee and roasted walnuts, and smooth tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $40

90 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Vieilles Vignes (Puligny­Montrachet). Using grapes

sourced from 70-year-old vines, this has a wood element that combines with citrus and yellow fruits. An apple fla-vor melds with a menthol note, bringing out herbal and fruity characters. On the finish, the concentration from the old vines shows strongly. Vineyard Brands. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $56

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

90 Domìni Veneti 2005 Vigneti di Jago (Am­arone della Valpolicella Classico). Pro-

duced by the innovative Cantina di Negrar co-op, this opens with rich tones of pulpy fruit, bright blueberry, black cherry, cinnamon and moist pipe tobacco. There’s a touch of jamminess on the palate that feeds into the overall sweetness and succulence of the mouthfeel. World Direct Wines. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $50

90 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Drouhin­Vaudon Premier Cru (Chablis). This is deliciously

crisp and steely, with an apple flavor and the weight of citrus and grapefruit. It has a minerally, chalky feel, and then the wine rounds out, with crisp fruit on the finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $37

90 Mario Bazán 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Few Cabernets in the world

are this ripe. It floods the mouth with sweet, soft black-berry and cherry flavors, complicated with notes of cur-rant, oak and a spicy, exotic hint of plum sauce. You can taste the California sun in every sip. Drink it now for its fruit. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

90 Rodney Strong 2010 Estate Vineyards Chardonnay (Chalk Hill). This is one of the

best California Chardonnays in its price range. It’s not a rich wine; instead, it’s dry, crisply acidic and mineral-ly, with citrus zest, vanilla cream and subtle oak flavors. With 65,000 cases produced, this should be easy to find. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

90 Rodney Strong 2010 Estate Vineyards Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The

vintage was kind to Rodney Strong, resulting in a fine, clean, crisp and savory young wine. It’s a little light and not an ager, but offers complex, satisfying waves of red cherries and currants, cola, bacon, sandalwood and pep-pery spices. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

90 Sebastiani 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Al­exander Valley). Soft and luscious, this has

just enough tannin and acidity to give structure to the delicious black-cherry, cocoa and bacon flavors. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

90 Suavia 2008 Le Rive (Soave Classico). The beautiful thing about this wine is the rich-

ness and creaminess of the mouthfeel. The bouquet opens with notes of peach, vanilla custard, pear and a zesty touch of lemon peel. Pair this with shellfish or poached salmon steaks. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

90 Tangent 2011 Paragon Vineyard Pinot Gris (Edna Valley). Fermented in stainless

steel for less than two months, this shows intense green-apple and lime flavors that are brightened by consid-erable acidity. This is a great apéritif wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

89 Cantina di Negrar 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. This expression offers

a diverse bouquet composed of various spice and dark fruit aromas. The mouthfeel is soft and velvety, but it needs another year or two to come together. Simone In-ternational. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $35

WineMag.com | 11

89 Terras Gauda 2011 O Rosal Albariño (Rías Baixas). This is a little heavy and oily on

the nose, with blowsy white-fruit aromas. It feels peachy and smooth, with key flavor components of melon, ap-ple and pear. This shows some extra heft, ending with a subtle and smooth finish. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

88 Domìni Veneti 2009 La Casetta (Valpoli­cella Classico Superiore Ripasso). This is

a very approachable wine, with lush aromas of red fruit and tobacco, followed by soft, silky tannins. It shows enough intensity and staying power to pair with spicy barbecue ribs. World Direct Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $22

88 Lovingston 2010 Gilbert’s Vineyard Pi­notage (Monticello). Paying homage to his

birthplace of South Africa, winemaker Riaan Rossouw has crafted a Pinotage with explosive notes of spiced rose petal, charred sugar, coffee and dark fruit. The fla-vors are equally expressive, with juicy acidity that lends this medium- to full-bodied effort a salient succulence. —A.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Neil Ellis 2010 The Left Bank (Western Cape). This blend of 37% Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon, 37% Shiraz and 26% Merlot boasts assertive aro-mas of cassis, black plum and licorice root. The medi-um-weight palate offers similarly concentrated fruit fla-vors, with a slightly chewy texture and a long, spicy fin-ish. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $15

88 Princesa NV Brut Nature (Cava). This is light, mildly yeasty, slightly pickled and briny

smelling. It feels fresh and edgy, with good acidic cut, while the flavors lean toward orange and white peach. It holds onto its briny character on the finish, which is dry, bracing and tastes of mineral and lime. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $19

88 Wine Spots 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This is a successful Pinot Noir in terms of its

lighter style, silkiness and generosity, showing real fi-nesse and delicacy. It’s a tartly acidic wine with deli-cious flavors of cola and sour cherry candy. Try pairing it with mushroom risotto speckled with crumbled ba-con. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

87 Cantina di Negrar 2010 Le Roselle (Val­policella Classico Superiore Ripasso).

Dark and spicy, this has ripe fruit, prune, currant and blackberry aromas that are followed by clove, carda-mom and black pepper notes. The mouthfeel is medi-um in terms of length and build. Simone International. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Hogue 2008 Genesis Merlot (Columbia Valley). Firm, hard and tight, this offers black

cherry flavors with some peach-pit phenolics. It’s sharp and edgy, definitely on the herbal side, with a hint of stem. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $16

87 Luigi Righetti 2010 Campolieti (Valpo­licella Classico Superiore Ripasso).

Founded in 1909, the historic Luigi Righetti estate of-fers a wine with much of the intensity and personality of more expensive Amarone wines. It opens with dark concentration and deep aromas of candied fruit, black-berry and spice. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

87 Terras Gauda 2011 Abadia de San Campio Albariño (Rías Baixas). Light scal-

lion and green herb aromas are offset by buttercup and melon scents. It feels fairly deep and melony, with peach and apple flavors. Despite being soft on the fin-ish, it’s packed with white fruit and tropical fruit flavors. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

SPIRITS

90 Van Gogh Double Espres­so Vodka (Holland; Van

Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL). Made with Colombian coffee beans, this vodka bears a strong resemblance to cold-brewed coffee. It has a translu-cent dark-brown color, espresso- and fudge-like aromas, and a good espresso flavor, with an appropriately bitter edge and a faintly minty finish. This would be excellent in espresso-tinis and similar coffee cocktails. abv: 35% Price: $27

86 Pure Iceberg Ice Infusion Chocolate Mint Flavored

Vodka (Canada; Admiral Imports, Cedar Grove, NJ). New to the mar-ket in fall 2012, this crystal-clear vodka is recommended for its bright aromat-ics, which are similar to peppermint patties or crème de menthe. On the palate, mint is the overwhelmingly dominant flavor. This line of vodka is made with water harvested from ice-bergs that float down the eastern coast of Canada in early summer. abv: 35% Price: $15

BEST BUYS

91 Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Oxford 1.970 Pedro Ximénez (Jerez). A sensuous sweet

Sherry, this has the full monty of fig, date, licorice, root beer and chocolate aromas and flavors. It’s naturally thick and sweet but also balanced, so it doesn’t come across like a spoonful of syrup. Great as a dessert wine with cake or blue cheese, but also as a topping for va-nilla or coffee ice cream. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 17% Price: $15/500 ml

90 Hyatt 2009 Merlot (Rattlesnake Hills). Smooth and instantly appealing, this estate-

grown Merlot has a broad, chocolaty palate that’s loaded with cherry fruit. There are peppery, herbal highlights, and plenty of lingering, polished tannins. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $12

90 Washington Hills 2011 Late Harvest Ries­ling (Washington). With 7% residual sugar

and 11% alcohol, this is a Riesling to enjoy with spicy noodle dishes. Sweetness notwithstanding, it’s a sub-stantial wine with grip and definition. Melon and peach flavors roll smoothly into notes of caramel and honey. This is rich and delicious. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 11% Price: $10

BEST BUYS

89 Hyatt 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rattle­snake Hills). Black cherry fruit is accented

with flavors of coffee grounds and dark chocolate. The fruit is clean and brambly, and the wine overdelivers for the price. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $12

89 Roza Ridge 2009 Syrah (Rattlesnake Hills). This Syrah bears a gamy accent that

overlays the flavors of juicy berries, herbs and spices. A peppery note highlights the clean, crisp finish. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $14

88 Alamos 2010 Red Blend (Mendoza). This is the first blend from Alamos, and it sings a nice

tune. Rubbery, slightly medicinal aromas give way to a full, honest, bulky wine. Ripe blackberry and cherry fla-vors rest in front of a good finish that’s full of vanilla and chocolate notes. Malbec, Bonarda and Tempranillo are the primary grapes. E & J Gallo. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

WineMag.com | 13

BEST BUYS

88 Hogue 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia Val­ley). This solid Chardonnay brings green apple

and melon flavors to the forefront, with just a hint of toast across the back of the palate. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $11

88 The White Knight 2010 Ries­ling (Lake County). Made

from 100% Lake County-grown Riesling grapes, this opens with sweet aromas of nectar and golden honey. It’s pretty and off dry (30 g/L residual sugar), remaining balance because of its crisp acidity. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $13

87 Atalaya 2010 Laya Old Vines (Alman­sa). Leather, plum and berry aromas form a

nice opening as minty chocolate notes emerge. It feels spunky, with edgy, rubbery tannins and full flavors of plum, cherry, mint and herb. Dry and controlled on the finish, this has an overall fresh character. Mostly Gar-nacha with some Monastrell. Gil Family Estates. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $9

BEST BUYS

87 Shaya 2011 Arindo Verdejo (Rueda). Fresh and fairly perky smelling, this has aromas

of lettuce, white flower and peach. It feels smooth but not soft, with pear, melon and apple flavors that feed nicely into the healthy finish that seems to bear some re-sidual sweetness. Very nice for simple sipping. Gil Fam-ily Estates. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

86 Hogue 2011 Pinot Grigio (Columbia Val­ley). This is a lean, tart, high-acid vintage for

Washington State white wines. Hogue’s reliable Pinot Grigio is herbaceous and clean, fresh and tangy. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.7% Price: $11

86 Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Zinfandel (Cal­ifornia). What Americans need is a good $8

Zinfandel, and what do you know? That’s just what this is. Dry as dust but sweet in fruit, with all kinds of savory spices, this is the perfect everyday wine for barbecue. Production was 8,000 cases, so it shouldn’t be too hard to find. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $8

BEST BUYS

86 Orange River Wine Cellars NV Star Tree Brut Sparkling Wine (Northern Cape).

This Chenin Blanc-based sparkler is attractively light and approachable, with a fruity mélange of peach, pear and lychee aromas and flavors that are jazzed up by hints of sweet grass and pineapple-like acidity. Ripe and lively, it has brisk carbonation and a clean finish. DRG Imports. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 11% Price: $11

85 Callia 2011 Alta Shiraz (Tulum Valley). Initial tar and asphalt aromas yield to grapy ber-

ry and earth notes. It feels hard but not real deep, with a short wild-berry flavor that leads to a reasonably good but superficial finish. Juicy and fresh. Palm Bay Interna-tional. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

85 Viña Albali 2011 Tempranillo (Valdepe­ñas). This opens with a blast of berry fruit and

a note of spice. It feels bouncy, full and healthy, with black fruits and dark spices comprising the flavor pro-file. The finish is short, but fruity and clean. Luneau USA Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

BEST BUYS

84 J. Garcia Carrion 2011 Opera Prima Tem­pranillo (La Mancha). Good berry aromas

come with a hint of spice. It feels peppy and high toned, with a zesty, quick rush of black cherry and plum flavors. It finishes in a flash, leaving little in its wake. Colección Internacional del Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $6

CORRECTIONSOn page 114 of the August issue, Gilles Arzur, execu-tive chef of Beverly Wilshire, was incorrectly credited as being affiliated with CUT by Wolfgang Puck. We re-gret the error.

NEXT MONTHHERE’S WHAT’S COMING UP IN WINE

ENTHUSIAST'S DECEMBER MAGAZINE:

Top 100 Cellar Selections of 2012The vast majority of consumers pop and pour a bottle of wine within 48 hours of purchasing it. But for those with

patience, our essential list highlights the top 100 selections worth stashing away for a decade or

longer.

Misconceptions of Vintage PortThink vintage Port is only for old fuddy-duddies?

Think again. By debunking common myths about this Portuguese fortified wine, we reveal just how

versatile modern vintage Port can be.

A Wolfgang Puck Holiday FeastIn an exclusive interview, renowned chef, restaurateur and television personality Wolfgang Puck shares his fa-

vorite holiday traditions, home entertaining tips and modern riffs on classic, festive dishes.

87 Lake Sonoma 2011 Chardonnay (Rus­sian River Valley). This shows the balanced

richness and price sensitivity that Lake Sonoma usually displays. It has the delicious apricot and tangerine fruits and oak quality of more expensive wines, without quite the depth or complexity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Olabisi 2010 Chappell Vineyard Char­donnay (Napa Valley). Rich enough to drink

now, this is dryish, crisply acidic and creamy, with pine-apple sour candy and butterscotch flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

87 Patz & Hall 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Oaky and seemingly sweet, this is a

showy wine whose appeal comes from its ripeness and richness. Vanilla and buttered toast notes from the oak dominate the tropical fruit and pineapple flavors. With its creamy, buttery mouthfeel, this is made to appeal to fans of the modern Chardonnay style. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

87 Patz & Hall 2010 Hudson Vineyard Char­donnay (Carneros). With its flavors of but-

terscotch, vanilla, pineapple and peach jam, this is a rich wine that will appeal to fans of creamy, oaky Chardon-nays. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $55

87 Saddleback Cellars 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Made in the popular style, this

has flavors of pineapple and orange jam, buttered toast and buttered popcorn. Its acidity and firm minerality save it from seeming sweet. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

86 Boheme 2010 English Hill Vineyard Char­donnay (Sonoma Coast). Dry, brisk in acid-

ity and ripe, this has stimulating minerality that under-girds the fruit flavors of Meyer lemon, lime and guava. But what dominates is the hugeness of size and the rich-ness that goes on and on. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

86 Groth 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This is too oaky, with vanilla, buttered toast and

butterscotch notes dominating the underlying pineap-ple and guava flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

85 16X20 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Ripe flavors of orange and tropical

fruit jam abound, with a buttered toast richness from the oak. Its appeal is all upfront, with a simple, popular sweetness. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

85 HandCraft 2011 Chardonnay (California). If you like your Chardonnay on the fruity side,

this one’s for you. It’s rich in pineapple, orange and apri-cot jam flavors, with notes of buttered toast and cream. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Steelhead Vineyards 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). There are lots of rich, ripe

vanilla, buttered toast and tropical fruit flavors in this

creamy wine. Brightened with acidity, it will appeal to plenty of Chardonnay fans. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Baron Herzog 2010 Chardonnay (Central Coast). This is a soft, simple Chardonnay. It’s

rich in orange, mango and apricot flavors, with a touch of buttery oak. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $13

84 Chalone 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Chal­one). This is overoaked, with buttered toast,

caramel and sweet vanilla flavors dominating everything else. Buried beneath the oak are crisp flavors of pine-apples and oranges. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

84 Grayson 2011 Lot 11 Chardonnay (Cali­fornia). An everyday Chardonay, this is seem-

ingly sweet and fruity, with pineapple, vanilla and but-tered toast flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $11

84 ZD 2010 Reserve Chardonnay (Carne­ros). There’s not much going on here beyond

lots of smoky, caramelized oak and some easy peach and citrus flavors. A touch of unripeness is also found. Char-donnnay has not been ZD’s strong suit, and still isn’t. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $55

83 JustNat 2010 Natalie’s Crown Reserve Chardonnay (Dry Creek Valley). The

basic Chardonnay here is nice, with citrus, pear and pineapple fruit flavors. But the oak weighs heavily, bringing a caramelized, butterscotch candy sweetness. Lots of people will like it for exactly that reason. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

82 Butterfly Kiss 2010 Chardonnay (Califor­nia). A simple Chardonnay, this tastes sweet

in white sugared pineapple, orange and mango juices. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

82 Wine Spots 2010 Chardonnay (Mon­terey). This is thin and tart, but it shows enough

Chardonnay flavor, with simple fruit and smoked butter flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

90 Tangent 2011 Paragon Vineyard Pinot Gris (Edna Valley). For full review see page

8. Editors’ Choice.abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Claiborne & Churchill 2011 Pinot Gris (Central Coast). Dry and brisk in acidity, this

comes with a big burst of citrus fruit, green apple and spice flavors. Nice as an apéritif or paired with Asian fare. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Occasio 2011 Del Arroyo Vineyard Pinot Gris (Livermore Valley). Slightly austere,

this Pinot Gris is marked by aromas of orange blossom

WineMag.com | 15

and cheese rind, with a crispness on the finish that re-sembles a ripe, green apple. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

86 Chalk Hill 2010 North Slope Pinot Gris (Chalk Hill). There’s plenty of ripe, sweet

pineapple, orange and lime flavors in this wine, which is brightened by crisp acidity. It tastes a little on the sweet side, but feels sophisticated. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

86 Rose ’N’ Blum 2011 Pinot Grigio (Cali­fornia). This tastes a little sweet, in the Rosen-

blum style, with apricot, orange and pear flavors. But it’s nicely crisp in acidity, which gives it a clean finish. Delightful now as a cocktail sipper. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

85 Butterfly Kiss 2011 Pinot Grigio (Califor­nia). This is easy to drink, with crisp, mouthwa-

tering acidity that brightens the lemon, lime and tropi-cal fruit flavors. It’s slightly sweet, but not overtly so—just enough to pair with Asian-inspired fare. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

84 Cable Car 2010 Pinot Grigio (California). A simple Pinot Grigio with a soft, fruity nose,

this has a tropical and seemingly sweet personality. It’s fresh tasting and fine for a party. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $10

83 hy.brid 2011 Pinot Grigio (Lodi). This blend of 75% Pinot Grigio and 15% Vermen-

tino is a light, simple quaff with some snap to it and not much on the finish. —V.B. abv: 12.3% Price: $8

RIESLING

88 The White Knight 2010 Riesling (Lake County). For full review see page 13. Best

Buy. abv: 13.3% Price: $13

88 V. Sattui 2011 Secco Riesling (Napa Val­ley). It’s called Secco, according to the winery,

because it’s completely dry. Maybe so, but there’s plenty of honeyed richness in this delightful Riesling. It shows a wealth of delicious, easy-drinking flavors of orange, apricot, Key lime pie and vanilla. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $25

87 Claiborne & Churchill 2010 Dry Riesling (Edna Valley). Dryish and tart in acidity, this

has flavors of citrus, tropical fruit, Asian pear and green apple, marked by that distinctly Riesling note of diesel fuel. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

87 V. Sattui 2011 Dry Riesling (Napa Valley). Although dry, it seems semisweet, with a hon-

eyed richness to the peach, citrus and vanilla flavors. As Rieslings go, it’s soft, compared to German versions, but easy to drink for a weekend brunch. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

86 V. Sattui 2011 Riesling (Anderson Valley). There’s lots of sweetness in this polished wine,

with pretty orange, peach, vanilla and honeysuckle fla-vors. It would benefit from greater acidity, though, as it’s a bit soft. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

84 Coquelicot 2010 Riesling (Santa Ynez Valley). With apricot and citrus flavors, this

Riesling tastes off-dry, with a honeyed sweetness. It’s a little green around the edges, which detracts from the pleasure. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $22

SAUVIGNON BLANC

92 Del Dotto 2011 Cinghiale Vineyard Sauvi­gnon Blanc (Sonoma Coast). Bone dry and

crisp, this is rich in New Zealand-like gooseberry flavor, making it mouthwateringly savory. Yet it’s entirely Cali-fornian with its notes of ripe pear, peach and pineapple. An elegant wine to drink now, this would make for an elegant apéritif. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $49

88 Clos La Chance 2011 Reserve Sauvi­gnon Blanc (Central Coast). This brisk and

refreshing wine never saw a splinter of oak, so what stars are the pure, ripe flavors of tropical and citrus fruits, lemongrass, honey and a hint of white pepper. The acidity gives it a keen, clean finish. This would be great with everything from roast chicken to Vietnamese food. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

88 Del Dotto 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Ruth­erford). A fine wine to drink now, this has the

dryness that suggests pairing it with goat cheese. It has rich flavors of gooseberries, limes and vanilla, with a lit-tle smokiness from the oak. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $39

87 Gary Farrell 2011 Russian River Selec­tion Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Val­

ley). The winemaker took a Chardonnay approach, giv-ing the wine lots of barrel fermentation and lees aging. The result is a rich, softly textured 100% Sauvignon Blanc, with lime, kiwi and vanilla flavors, wrapped into a creamy, buttery mouthfeel. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

86 V. Sattui 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). This straddles the border between

tasting dry and slightly sweet. It has good acidity, with flavors of citrus, mint green tea and vanilla. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $22

85 Markham 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Tasting a little on the sweet side, this is

rich in citrus, apricot, pear and peach flavors. It will pair well with Asian fare, or with a savory salad of greens, goat cheese and grapefruit. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

85 Novy 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). This is exotic in grapefruit, apri-

cot and honey flavors, with a green veggie streak that’s

courtesy of the chilly vintage. It’s best described as tast-ing like a sweet-and-sour Chinese sauce. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $19

85 Ruby Red 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (North Coast). This tastes sweet and clean, with man-

go, peach and orange flavors that are brightened with zesty acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $18

84 Clif Family 2011 Rte. Blanc Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). A little too sweet, this

has candied flavors of lemon, lime and vanilla. Brisk acidity provides balance, but it would be better if it fin-ished drier. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

84 Groth 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val­ley). The cold 2011 vintage has taken its toll

on this wine. It’s bone dry, crisp in acidity and not quite ripe, with its citrus and tropical fruit flavors compro-mised by a touch of green bean. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

82 Clif Family 2011 The Climber Sauvignon Blanc (California). The cold vintage left this

wine tasting unripe. It has green, vegetal streaks of mint and green pea, but tastes oddly sweet, like a citrus candy coughdrop. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

82 Mario Bazán 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Lots of unripe, green flavors

compromise this wine. Although it’s nicely dry and acid-ic, with a good citrus flavor, it has a green bean note and a sourness that’s hard to enjoy. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $25

VIOGNIER

92 Tangent 2011 Paragon Vineyard Viognier (Edna Valley). For full review see page 8. Edi-

tors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

88 Clos La Chance 2011 Reserve Viognier (Central Coast). A very rich Viognier, this

has massive flavors of tropical fruit, peach, pear, vanilla bean and buttered toast. The ripe fruit comes at the cost of very high alcohol. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $22

88 Rock Wall 2011 Kristen’s Viognier, Nel­son Ranch Viognier (Mendocino Coun­

ty). This has flavors and aromas of hazelnut, dried apri-cot and coconut in between layers of lush white peach. Overall, this is very pretty and well balanced. Its light-handed finish is floral and tropical, without a sign of oak. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $20

86 Adelaida 2010 The Glenrose Vineyard Viognier (Paso Robles). This veers toward

the sweet side of Viognier, with pineapple, apricot, or-ange and honeysuckle flavors. The sweetness is bal-anced by firm acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $35

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

WHITE BLENDS

90 Davis Family 2009 Cuvee Luke (Sierra Foothills). This is a deliciously fruity, nutty

Roussanne-Marsanne-Viognier blend with a marzi-pan-like flavor. It has a light texture, good balance and a deep, honey finish, proving to be a great example of what the Sierra Foothills can do with Rhône varieties. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $26

88 La Clarine Farm 2011 White Blend (Sierra Foothills). A new wine from La Clarine Farm,

this is a blend of 37% Sémillon, 32% Viognier and 31% Marsanne. Unusual to say the least, it bears an interest-ing melange of herbs, flowers, pears and honey, finish-ing light and inviting to drink. The minerality in particu-lar shines through, making this easy to pair with a wide range of appetizers and seafood. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $22

87 Adelaida 2010 The Glenrose Vineyard Version (Paso Robles). Made from Rous-

sanne and Grenache Blanc, this is an undeniably deli-cious, rather sweet white wine. This is so huge in or-ange, guava and nectarine flavors, but it’s also a bit high in alcohol, which gives it a jalapeño-like heat. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

87 Ehret 2011 White Table Wine Meritage (Knights Valley). Composed mainly of Sémil-

lon, with some Sauvignon Blanc blended in, this is a nice wine for drinking now. It’s full-bodied and tastes dryish to semi-sweet, with apricot, peach and citrus fruit flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Trenza 2010 Blanco (Edna Valley). Made from the folks behind Tangent, this blend of

Grenache Blanc and Albariño is rich in orange, white flower and roasted almond flavors, brightened by zesty Edna Valley acidity. The oak brings a smoky creaminess and also some caramelized sweetness. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

84 Apothic 2011 Winemaker’s Blend (Cali­fornia). Made in the popular style, this blend of

Chardonnay, Riesling and Moscato has honeyed flavors of oranges, apricots and vanilla. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

82 Stark Raving NV White (California). With orange and peach flavors, this blend of Char-

donnay, Muscat and Malvasia is a simple, sweet-tasting wine. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

OTHER WHITE WINES

89 Blue Plate 2011 Dry Chenin Blanc (Clarksburg). This bottling is even better

than the 2010: drier, crisper and more elegant, without a trace of sweetness. It’s balanced, with a long finish that should pair well with any kind of spiced food. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 12% Price: $11

89 Zocker 2011 Paragon Vineyard Grüner Veltliner (Edna Valley). This tastes sweeter

than the very fine 2009 and 2010, but that may be be-cause the fruit is so powerfully intense and pure. It has flavors of ripe tangerines, limes, peaches and apples, made racy by its acidity. No oak has been applied, so the wine tastes fresh. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Stark 2011 Saarloos Vineyard Grenache Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). This is brisk in

acidity and entirely dry, with the low-alcohol auster-ity of the cool 2011 vintage. The flavors are good but elusive, suggesting cherry skin, smoked ham, tobacco, fresh herb and white pepper. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $28

87 Claiborne & Churchill 2011 Dry Gewurz­traminer (Central Coast). Picture perfect

Gewürz, this is crisp and incredibly flavorful, with notes of grapefruits, Asian pears and tropical fruits, exotic spices, wild honeysuckle and vanilla. While the label says it’s dry, it’s rich in honey and butter flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Dry Chenin Blanc (Clarksburg). Dry Creek has made

yet another delicious Chenin Blanc at a screaming fair price. Pleasantly and conservatively sweet in smell and taste, it shows nice melon and pineapple flavors, with a fresh, creamy texture. Fermented in stainless steel, the wine has 0.6% residual sugar. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

87 Tangent 2011 Paragon Vineyard Albariño (Edna Valley). Racy and intensely flavored,

this is high in acidity and has spectacularly concentrated flavors of apple, peach, citrus and tropical fruit. With no oak at all, the fruit stars—pure and clean. Even though the residual sugar is technically zero, the finish tastes sweet, so pair it with slightly sweet foods, especially Vietnamese, Chinese or Thai. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

83 hy.brid 2011 Vermentino (Lodi). This weighty Vermentino has splashes of Sauvignon

Blanc and Pinot Grigio. It tastes as though it spent a great amount of time in barrel, however the aging vessel is listed as 100% stainless steel. —V.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $8

SPARKLING WINES

95 Chandon 2001 Étoile Tête de Cuvée (Na­pa­Sonoma). A toasty yeast note has taken

center stage of this blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, providing that uniquely Cham-pagne-like accent to California’s ripe strawberry, rasp-berry and lime flavors. Despite the ripe fruit flavors, the finish is dry and tart in acidity. It gets even better as it warms in the glass, displaying compelling complexities. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $100

95 Domaine Carneros 2006 Le Rêve (Carne­ros). Made entirely from Chardonnay, it shows

real delicacy and richness, with a mousse as smooth

as fine satin. Flavorwise, it’s enormously rich, suggest-ing oranges, limes, honey, vanilla, toast and the sweet, yeasty doughiness of a brioche pastry. Really gorgeous, a worthy followup to the fabulous 2005 La Rêve. —S.H. abv: 12% Price: $95

93 Chandon NV Étoile Brut (Napa­Sonoma). For full review see page 6.

abv: 13% Price: $40

93 Chandon 2006 Brut (Mount Veeder). Made mostly from Chardonnay, with a touch of Pinot

Noir, this is so rich and creamy, it’s like satin gliding across the mouth, carrying waves of lemon- and lime-in-fused buttercream, brioche and a smoky flavor. It feels classy and delicious from the first sniff to the seemingly sweet finish. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $45

92 Chandon 2007 Vintage Brut (Yountville). Rich and smooth, this has complex flavors of

raspberry, almond biscotti, lime and vanilla, with a smoky note. The texture shows real finesse. Made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it’s a first class bubbly. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $45

90 Domaine Carneros NV Cuvée de la Pom­padour Brut Rosé (Carneros). Made from

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this is one of the winery’s best Pompadours of the last four years. It’s rich and de-licious, with yeasty flavors of raspberries, strawberries, vanilla, toast and honey. It’s beautiful to drink now with pâté, scrambled eggs and smoked salmon. —S.H. abv: 12% Price: $36

90 V. Sattui 2009 Prestige Cuvée Brut (Napa Valley). This is easy to like for its clean, brisk

mouthfeel, creaminess and slightly sweet flavors of lime and strawberry. Made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, it shows real finesse. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $29

89 Chandon NV Blanc de Noirs (California). While this bubbly is technically dry, it tastes

sweetly infused with the essence of strawberries and vanilla. The mouthfeel is fine, with a gentle scouring of acidity and the slight sourness from its lees. Drink it now with almost anything, especially sushi. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $22

88 Domaine Carneros 2008 Brut (Carneros). Made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it’s a lit-

tle scouring and rough, but it shows dry sparkling wine flavors of doughy yeast, strawberries, vanilla and toast. —S.H. abv: 12.6% Price: $27

87 Chandon NV Étoile Rosé (North Coast). Lots of ripe raspberry, strawberry and lime fla-

vors are found in this sweetish blush bubbly. It’s brisk in acidity, with a nice doughiness, although it could be smoother. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $40

87 Chandon NV Reserve Blanc de Blancs (Sonoma­Napa). This shows real Chardon-

nay character with its pure, crisp essence of lime and

orange that marks this smoky, slightly sweet bubbly. It’s a little rough around the edges, but fine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $30

87 Chandon NV Reserve Brut (Sonoma­Na­pa). A bit rough and scouring, this is also overt-

ly sweet in raspberry jam flavor. Mostly composed of Pi-not Noir, the 20% Chardonnay brings refreshing acidity, like a squeeze of lime. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $30

87 Chandon NV Reserve Pinot Noir Rosé (Sonoma­Napa­Mendocino). Plenty of

strawberry, raspberry, lime, vanilla and yeasty flavors abound in this sparkler, which is almost off-dry in its sweetness. A fine burst of citrusy acidity helps to pro-vide balance. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $30

86 Chandon NV Brut Classic (California). This is sweet, soft and easy to drink, despite its

scoury mouthfeel. It has fruity raspberry, strawberry and lime flavors. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $22

86 Rose ’N’ Blum 2011 Pink Moscato (Cal­ifornia). This rides the Moscato craze with a

wine that could be sweet enough to classify as a dessert sipper, but let’s call it off-dry. It has jammy raspberry and apricot flavors, with a hint of orange zest. Best of all is the acidity, which is so clean and balancing. —S.H. abv: 10.5% Price: $12

84 Chandon NV Rosé (California). A simple, sweet blush bubbly, this is rough in texture, with

raspberry, strawberry and vanilla flavors. It should be fine with wedding cake. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $22

ROSÉS

90 Baiocchi Wines 2011 Neophyte Rosé (Fair Play). A blend of 70% Grenache and

30% Mourvèdre, this is an invitingly juicy and spicy rosé, packed with strawberry-mint and pomegranate flavors and a long, savory finish. It’s a great introduction to this winery and its talent for creating Rhône-inspired wines. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $18

84 Adelaida 2011 Version Rosé (Paso Ro­bles). A heavy, sweet rosé, this is made from

Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache. The flavors are of raspberries, vanilla and toast. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

81 Butterfly Kiss 2011 Pink Pinot Grigio (California). This is a heavy, soft, jammy wine

that’s sweet in raspberry- and strawberry-jam flavors. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $12

PINOT NOIR

96 Foxen 2010 Sea Smoke Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This is the most expensive Pinot

Noir Foxen has ever made, and guess what? It’s also the winery’s best. It bears rich flavors, offering tiers of smoky cherries, red currants, licorice candies, vanilla, sandalwood and spices. What’s harder to describe is the sheer beauty of the texture and balance. Containing the explosive richness of a wine like this is a challenge, but winemaker Bill Wathan has managed to bring elegance to its power. The wine is high in alcohol, and it’s not ad-visable to age it beyond 3 or 4 years, but it is incredibly delicious. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $85

94 Foxen 2010 La Encantada Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Few winemakers in

Santa Barbara County understand better than Bill Wa-than how to let the terroir of individual vineyards shine, while still providing consumers with a delicious drink-ing experience. This bottling shows the juicy, ripe fla-vors one expects from Dijon clones, with flashy notes of raspberries, cherries and currants. It’s balanced in crisp acidity, and there’s a tangy, dry minerality. Drink now–2016. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $60

93 Baxter 2009 Oppenlander Vineyard Pi­not Noir (Mendocino). Structured and fully

developed, this showcases the strong 2009 vintage, the Oppenlander Vineyard and the brilliance that is Baxter. Marked by bright black-cherry fruit and a heady per-fume of rose, this carries itself with elegance and a light touch. This is Pinot Noir purposely made to pair with food. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

93 Boheme 2009 English Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This single-vineyard

wine is a little plodding and direct now. It’s dry and acid-ic, with high-toned flavors of cranberry and sour cherry candy that turn heavy and seemingly sweet as you swal-low. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $50

93 Boheme 2009 Taylor Ridge Vineyard Pi­not Noir (Sonoma Coast). Enormously at-

tractive, this has a rich, creamy texture and complex flavors. Notes of raspberries, cherries, Dr. Pepper and persimmons flood the palate, riding a wave of spice, smoky oak and a beautiful touch of mushroomy earthi-ness. This is a first class Pinot Noir, with food-friendly elegance. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

93 Foxen 2010 Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This is classic Santa

Maria Valley Pinot Noir, with its dark color, full body, ripe berry and currant flavors and, especially, the array of exotic crushed brown spices. New French oak brings lots of smoky, buttery, toasty richness. Great to drink now with tuna, salmon, lamb and beef dishes. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $58

93 Robert Mondavi 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Carneros). Mondavi’s best Pinot Noir in

many years, this shows the chilliness of the vintage in its acidity and leanness, but it’s a vital, beautiful auster-ity, like a fighter in training with zero body fat. At the same time, it proves to be flashy and elegant, with rich

flavors of cherry and red currant. Drink it over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

92 Benovia 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 7.

abv: 14.2% Price: $38

92 Foxen 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard Block 8 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This is

a big, ripe, full-bodied Pinot Noir—as big as the variety gets in California. But it never loses balance, by virtue of the brisk acids, silkiness and dry finish. This wine always impresses for its sheer, Incredible Hulk volume. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $58

92 Phillips Hill 2010 Two Terroirs Pinot Noir (Mendocino). Phillips Hill’s Two Terroirs is

very subtly marked “AV + MR,” signaling that the fruit was sourced from both the cool Anderson Valley and even cooler Mendocino Ridge. It’s lightly earthy and re-splendent in bright, just-ripe cherry tones. Gorgeously crisp, with undeniable structure, this is ready to drink, but it would also shine in a few years time. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $40

91 Baxter 2009 Langley Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). With tangy acidity and

complex flavors, this is easily the best of Baxter’s three 2009 releases. The raspberry and cherry flavors vie with an earthier note of mushroom, and there’s a savory edge of balsam and cola. The oak is evident, but has been adroitly applied. Dry and silky, this is capable of aging for several years in a cellar. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $45

91 Clos La Chance 2009 Erwin Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). This

is made in a lighter, breezier style, but there’s noth-ing light about the flavors, which suggest raspberries, grilled Canadian bacon, softened cola and smoky san-dalwood. Gentle and easy, with a silky feel, this shows lots of class and elegance. Ready to drink. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91 Del Dotto 2009 Cinghiale Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is big in fruit, big

in tannins and big in the overall impression it leaves. It’s enormously rich and ripe in cherry, red currant and cola, sprinkled with dusty exotic spice and a hint of for-est herb. The vineyard is the former Maritime Vineyard of the W.H. Smith Winery, whose Pinot Noirs were magnificent and scored highly. This one seems a little heavier than Smith used to produce. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $75

91 Gary Farrell 2009 Hallberg Vineyard Pi­not Noir (Russian River Valley). For full re-

view see page 9. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

91 Siduri 2010 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). The wine’s natural acidity, purity of

texture and gentleness automatically make you think of food. Flavorwise, it’s all about raspberries and cherries, cured meat, cola, spices and smoky oak. It’s delicious

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18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

to drink now with a great steak, roasted lamb or grilled tuna. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $50

91 Siduri 2010 Ewald Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Made in the Siduri

style of immediate accessibility, this is medium bod-ied and silky, with crisp, citrusy acids brightening the ripe raspberry and cherry fruit. It’s complex and elegant enough to drink with great steaks and chops. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $48

91 Windsor Oaks 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Textbook Russian

River Pinot Noir, this is bone dry, elegant and lightly silky, with complex flavors of sour cherry candy, cola and sandalwood. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $35

90 Patz & Hall 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). There’s lots to like in this Pinot Noir,

which is a blend of fine vineyards throughout the appel-lation. It’s dry, silky and tart, with flavors of wild cherry, cranberry, softened cola, sautéed mushroom and new oak. Give it a bit of decanting. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

90 Rodney Strong 2010 Estate Vineyards Pi­not Noir (Russian River Valley). For full re-

view see page 10. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

90 Siduri 2010 Sonatera Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Crisp and vibrant, this is

also rich and flashy. It has the essence of ripe, wild rasp-berries that are spiced and smoked up in oak, leaving you dazzled by its allure. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

89 Amelle 2008 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Try giving this Pinot

Noir 5–6 years in the cellar. It’s not that it’s undrinkable now, but it’s immature, offering just a hint of what it wants to be. The fruit is ripe and jammy, suggesting red cherries and pomegranates, and the acidity is juicy and tart. Pinots from this vineyard are known to age well. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $41

89 Windsor Oaks 2007 2 Dijon Clones Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). There’s lots

of ripe, pure fruit in this wine, suggesting sour cherry candy, cranberries and red licorice. Texturally, it’s softly silky, and the finish is dry. High alcohol shows up on the finish as a not unpleasant jalapeño-like warmth. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $35

89 Windsor Oaks 2007 3 Dijon Clones Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is pretty

tasty in cherries, cola and licorice, with a nice, silky tex-ture. It’s a polished wine that finishes dry and spicy, with a sweet oak note on the finish. A little one dimensional, but it could develop bottle complexity over the next 6–7 years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

89 Windsor Oaks 2007 Clone 459 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is easy to like

for its dry, silky mouthfeel and rich flavors of crushed red cherries, cola and spices. It’s an elegant wine with good acidity. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $35

88 Baileyana 2009 Grand Firepeak Cuvée Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Classic Edna Val-

ley Pinot Noir, this shows brisk acidity, modest alcohol and keen cherry, raspberry and ripe persimmon flavors. The tannins are smooth and supportive, the texture el-egant and silky. It will show maximum freshness over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

88 Boheme 2009 Stuller Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Intellectual, elusive and

challenging, this wine makes you think. It’s dry, silky and crisp in acidity, with complex mushroom, cherry, cola and cedar flavors. It’s also a little rustic, but time could help. If you’re a gambler, hold it until after 2015. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

88 Claiborne & Churchill 2009 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). This is classic Edna Valley Pi-

not Noir: dry, light bodied, with crisp acidity, modest al-cohol and forward flavors of raspberry, cherry and cola. Production was just shy of 2,500 cases. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $25

88 Claiborne & Churchill 2009 Runestone Barrel Select Pinot Noir (Edna Valley).

Crisp in acidity, this is a fruit-driven wine, with rich fla-vors of raspberries and cherries. Lots of new French oak adds even richer notes of vanilla and buttered toast. It’s as ripe as any Pinot Noir in the world. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $40

88 Dunstan 2009 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Made in the rich, forward,

jammy style, this boasts a flavor of black raspberry jam. It’s oaky, too, with a veneer of buttered cinnamon toast. This is a Pinot Noir that’s easy to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

88 Patz & Hall 2010 Chenoweth Ranch Pi­not Noir (Russian River Valley). Rich, full-

bodied and heavy, this is dramatic in its own way. It’s certainly ripe and thick, with a flavor of black raspberry jam and a touch of milk chocolate. The high alcohol is suggestive of cherry liqueur. But that’s been the Che-noweth Ranch signature for years. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $58

88 Phillips Hill 2010 Oppenlander Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mendocino). Made in a more ex-

tracted, fuller style, this is overwhelmingly earthy and intensely aromatic. Its time in oak has not quite shaken off entirely, and its fruit expression veers on the darker side, with notes of black cherries and blueberries stand-ing out the most. An herbal aura lingers around. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $42

88 Sebastiani 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv­er Valley). This is the richest and most satis-

fying of the winery’s four 2010 Pinot Noirs. It’s not an ager, but the flavors of raspberry and cherry jam are for-

ward and tasty, with a tart edge of spicy licorice. Drink it now for maximum freshness. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

88 V. Sattui 2010 Henry Ranch Pinot Noir (Los Carneros). Right out of the bottle, this is

tight, but airing coaxes out plenty of cherry, currant and tart persimmon flavors, with a pretty mouthfeel. Give this some time in the decanter to breathe and mellow. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $39

88 Wine Spots 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). For full review see page 11.

abv: 13.5% Price: $25

87 Baxter 2009 Pinot Noir (Anderson Val­ley). There’s lots of forward raspberry, cherry

and pomegranate fruit in this soft, lush wine. Oak brings an additional layer of richness. It’s delicious—like toast spread with butter and jam—but a little one-dimension-al. However, it’s a wonderful dimension to explore now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

87 Baxter 2009 Run Dog Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This shows both the fi-

nesse of the Anderson Valley and the ’09 vintage that was so kind to coastal Pinot Noir. It has rich flavors of cherry jam and ripe pomegranate, with fine acidity, but there’s an excessive oakiness that gives it a toothpicky sweetness. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $45

87 Chalone 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Chal­one). Red cherry, red currant, mushroom and

sandalwood flavors mark this appealing wine. Bone dry, with good acidity, it’s a fine wine to drink now, but it should also age for quite some time, without necessarily gaining in complexity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $37

87 Chamisal Vineyards 2010 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). This is dry, tart and

a little one-dimensional, yet elegant, offering red cherry and cola flavors and a wintertime taste of Christmas per-simmons. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

87 Domaine Carneros 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Bone dry and tart in acidity, this

has tobacco, sour cherry and crushed black-pepper fla-vors. While it doesn’t show much richness, it’s silky and elegant on the palate, with a certain earthy complexity. Foods, such as lamb, steak and salmon, will certainly coax out more flavors than the wine delivers by itself. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

87 Gloria Ferrer 2009 Estate Pinot Noir (Carneros). A very rich Pinot Noir, this tastes

almost as heavy as pie filling. It’s delicious, tasting of brown sugar, ripe black cherry and pie spice, with a but-tery toast note from oak barrels. It’s a little soft, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

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87 Windsor Oaks 2007 Clone 777 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Showing red cherry,

cola and spice flavors, this is very dry and silky, like a Russian River Pinot Noir should be. It’s elegant, feel-ing smooth and clean on the palate. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $35

86 Costa de Oro 2010 Reserva Oro Rojo Estate Gold Coast Vineyard Pinot Noir

(Santa Maria Valley). This tastes a little unripe, with a green mint and vegetal streak that cuts across the fla-vors of raspberry and sweet toasty oak. Rich meats and cheeses will help tame the acids. It doesn’t seem to be an ager, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $50

86 MooBuzz 2011 Pinot Noir (Monterey). This shows classic coastal crispness and delica-

cy, with a silkiness that makes it feel easy on the palate. It’s also delicious in flavors of cherries, bacon, cola and spices. The blend happens to be fattened up by Sangio-vese, Tempranillo and Syrah Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

86 Sebastiani 2010 Robert’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Carneros). This lacks Pinot’s velvety

richness, substituting instead an irregular mouthfeel due in part to unripe, green tannins. Makes up for it with a wealth of raspberry and cherry jam flavors and a sweet oak note. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $45

86 Stephen & Walker 2010 Pinot Noir (So­noma Coast). This is leaner and drier than

you’d normally expect from the Sonoma Coast, with lots of tangy acidity. Although the alcohol is high, the wine is shy on fruit, but it remains elegant. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $46

85 Armida 2010 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). With some veggie and

green, stemmy notes alongside tones of cherry and cola, this doesn’t taste fully ripe. It’s a very dry wine, with brisk acidity. Drink now, as it’s unlikely to develop with age. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $45

85 Chessman 2011 Pinot Noir (North Coast). This is a very pale Pinot Noir—you can almost

read through it. It’s also light and simple in texture, with some polished flavors of raspberries, Dr. Pepper and spices. It finishes dry and crisp in acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

85 Costa de Oro 2010 Estate Gold Coast Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley).

Despite having a wealth of cherry and sweet, smoky oak flavors, unripe notes of green peppercorn and tomato mark this Pinot Noir. The structure is fine and the acid-ity is great, but the veggie taste distracts. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

85 MacPhail 2010 The Flyer Pinot Noir (Rus­sian River Valley). This Pinot tastes so oaky,

it’s like chewing on barrel staves. Notes of vanilla, but-tered toast and the creamy-sweet flavor of oak sap com-pletely overwhelm what otherwise seems like a good

wine. This is a real outlier among MacPhail’s other 2010 Pinot Noirs. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $59

85 Sebastiani 2010 Pinot Noir (Carne­ros). Easy and uncomplicated, this is dry,

light-bodied and fine in acidity, with flavors of sour cherry candy, cola and smoky oak. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $26

85 Windsor Oaks 2007 Clone 667 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A vegetal touch

marks this wine, which otherwise shows flavors of sour cherry candy and rhubarb. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $35

84 Steelhead Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). Soft and simple, this is

seemingly sweet and easy to drink now for its wealth of raspberry, cherry, mocha and spice flavors. The texture is light and silky. A portion of the profits goes to trout and salmon watershed restoration efforts. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $15

84 Terra Valentine 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A green, vegetal note marks the berry

and cola flavors. It’s a big, sturdy wine that’s high in al-cohol and slightly warm, with considerable tannins. It doesn’t seem likely to improve with age. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $42

83 Lost Angel 2011 Pinot Noir (California). There’s a raw cut of acidity that gives this simple

wine a sour taste. On the plus side, it’s nice and dry, with some cherry fruit. For the price, it’s a helpful introduc-tion to the charms of Pinot Noir. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $10

82 Jacuzzi 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (So­noma Coast). Thin and simple, this is not rich

enough to stand up to all of the acidity, lending it a sour taste. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

96 Diamond Creek 2009 Gravelly Meadow Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun­

tain). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.1% Price: $175

96 Diamond Creek 2009 Volcanic Hill Cab­ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).

For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection.abv: 14.1% Price: $175

96 Nickel & Nickel 2009 Martin Stelling Vine­yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For

full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.7% Price: $155

96 Vine Cliff 2009 16 Rows Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Oakville). For full review see page 3.

Cellar Selection. abv: 14.9% Price: $150

95 Diamond Creek 2009 Red Rock Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun­

tain). For full review see page 4.abv: 14.1% Price: $175

95 Kadiem 2009 Inaugural Vintage Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review

see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.4% Price: $85

95 Silverado 2009 Solo Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Stags Leap District). In a good vin-

tage, which 2009 was, Silverado’s Solo bottling is always worthy of aging. It would be a tragedy to open this 100% Cabernet before 2018, and even then it might be too early. Dry and full bodied, this offers complex black-berry and cassis flavors, with a grounding herbal quality suggestive of sage. The tannins are profound, making the wine tight now. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $100

95 Summers 2009 Checkmate Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). For full

review see page 4.abv: 14.2% Price: $100

94 Clark­Clauden 2009 Eternity Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). With elaborate

oak, concentrated fruit, dense tannins and exquisite bal-ance, this tiny production Cabernet—the winery’s first-ever reserve—demands to be cellared. It’s complete-ly dry and rich in blackberries, black currants, baking chocolate, anise and minerals. It feels dramatic from the start, like the opening notes of a great symphony or rock song. Cellar it for at least eight years, and it could age well beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $125

94 David Arthur 2009 Old Vine Estate Caber­net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is built

to impress through its sheer power. With a little Petit Verdot blended in, which adds a floral character, it’s marked by an intense flavor of ripe wild blackberries, with a dried berry quality that’s suggestive of currants and a liqueur fullness, courtesy of the high alcohol. The French oak is a full 100% new, and is in keeping with the wine’s volume. So rich and tannic now, it’s barely drinkable. Give it at least 6–8 years in a good cellar and see what happens. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $125

94 Nickel & Nickel 2009 Branding Iron Cab­ernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For full review

see page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.8% Price: $100

94 Nickel & Nickel 2009 State Ranch Caber­net Sauvignon (Yountville). For full review

see page 5.abv: 13.8% Price: $100

94 Sabina Vineyards 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). For full review see

page 5.abv: 13.8% Price: $100

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

94 Sebastiani 2009 Cherryblock Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). For full re-

view see page 5.abv: 14.4% Price: $90

94 Vine Cliff 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For full review see page 6. Cellar

Selection. abv: 14.8% Price: $85

93 Camiana 2008 Blue Hall Vineyard Caber­net Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). Cami-

ana has been establishing a real track record with this bottling, and the 2008 is the best yet. It shows the inten-sity and purity of Howell Mountain fruit, bearing deep flavors of blackberries, blueberries, dark chocolate and currants, with big, firm tannins that are characteristic of the mountain. There’s also a softness and a femininity that make the wine drinkable now, but it should easily develop over the next decade, at the very least. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

93 Conn Creek 2008 Collins Holystone Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Hele­

na). For full review see page 6.abv: 14.5% Price: $60

93 David Arthur 2009 Three Acre Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is

flashy and impressive for the sheer power and concen-tration of its fruit. Intense blackberry and cassis flavors sink deep and last long, accompanied by strong, new French oak and considerable tannins. It’s a wine that needs serious cellar time; eight years from now, it could still be a baby. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $95

92 Conn Creek 2008 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For

full review see page 7. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

92 Nickel & Nickel 2009 Hayne Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). For full

review see page 8. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.3% Price: $100

92 Oakville Winery 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For full review see

page 8. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

92 Sabina Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Oakville). From the start this has su-

perb tannins and fine acidity that frame the ripe, com-plex blackberry, black currant and cassis flavors, finish-ing with elegance and class. It’s hard to resist drinking now, but this should develop over the next eight years. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $75

92 Saddleback Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sau­vignon (Napa Valley). Lush and delicious,

this is rich with complex berry, currant, cola, spice and cedar flavors. It’s earthier and more rustic than the modern style of extreme softness and sweetness, but that’s exactly what gives it such charm. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $64

91 Barbour 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Flashy, soft and luscious, this

is made in the modern cult style of Napa Cabernet. It’s rich in flavors of blackberry jam, cassis and melt-ed dark chocolate. Heady in alcohol, there’s a pleasant, blood-warming heat. The concentration and tannins aren’t there to warrant aging, so drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $100

91 Conn Creek 2008 Newton Vineyard Cab­ernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Mount

Veeder Cabernets usually have tough tannins, making the Cabernets ageworthy, but this 100% varietal bot-tling neither requires cellaring nor will reward it. En-joy the tight astringency now for its upfront blackberry, black currant and cassis flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

91 Del Bondio 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). From the prestigious Ruther-

ford appellation comes this soft, smooth and mellow Cabernet, with delicious flavors of black cherry, cola and beef teriyaki. It shows just a trace of bitterness on the finish, so drink soon. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $36

91 Punch 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali­fornia). Much of the fruit for this wine comes

from Napa’s Mount Veeder, with additions from neigh-boring Sonoma County and other unidentified state-wide sources. Even so, this shows a Napa-esque flair, bearing softly ripe blackberry and cassis flavors, with balance and richness. The winemakers and owners are the husband and wife team from Mount Veeder’s Lagi-er-Meredith. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

90 Alpha Omega 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a strong, dry and tannic

Cabernet Sauvignon, with intense blackberry, black cur-rant and new oak flavors. Right now, it’s immature, of-fering little beyond sheer power. Will it age? Six years is no problem. After that, the overripeness, in the form of raisins, may easily kick in. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $88

90 Mario Bazán 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 10.

abv: 13.5% Price: $55

90 Robert Mondavi 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Rich and concentrat-

ed in blackberry essence, black currant and mocha, this has smooth tannins and a long, complex, dry finish. Del-icacy, not to mention ageability, is somewhat compro-mised by the heat of high alcohol, but still, it’s a flashy effort to drink over the next few years. The grapes come from the esteemed To Kalon Vineyard immediately be-hind the winery. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $135

90 Sebastiani 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Al­exander Valley). For full review see page 10.

abv: 14.2% Price: $40

90 Summers 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). Firm tannins and a dry fin-

ish mark this wine. It has a wealth of blackberry, currant

and sandalwood flavors as well as a salty, smoky umami taste that suggests grilled bacon. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $28

89 Ackerman 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Bone dry and elegantly tannic,

this shows blackberry and currant flavors, touched by smoky oak. It doesn’t quite have the depth to age, so drink this Cabernet soon to appreciate the rich fruit and classic Napa structure. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $75

89 Brander 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Santa Ynez Valley). Ripe fruit com-

bines with fine tannins to make for a Cabernet that’s easy to drink, yet good enough for an expensive cut of steak. The black cherry and raspberry flavors have a brambly edge, almost like a Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. Don’t look for Napa smoothness and opulence; instead, let the rustic nature of this wine charm you. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

89 Ghost Block 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Oakville). This shows deep, classic fla-

vors of sweet blackberries and black currants, with rich, thick tannins. While it doesn’t seem to be an ager, it’s a lovely wine to decant over a few hours. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

89 Oakville East 2009 Exposure Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). This is hard to appre-

ciate now because the fruit is so primary and upfront—like a heaping spoon of black raspberry jam—and also because the tannins are thick and tough. There’s some-thing almost rustic about it. On the other hand, six years or more in the cellar could reward. Made from Caber-net Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, with a splash of Pe-tit Verdot. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

89 Roberts & Rogers 2007 Cabernet Sau­vignon (Howell Mountain). Big, powerful

and flashy, this is made in the modern cult style, show-ing ripeness, high alcohol and oakiness. The blackberry and cassis flavors are classic Napa, while the texture is smooth and mellow, but as heady as cognac. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $60

89 The Magpie 2010 Lot Four Cabernet Sau­vignon (St. Helena). Shows the sweet rich-

ness of Napa Valley. It has candied flavors of blackber-ries and cherries, wrapped into firm, polished tannins. A pretty wine, it should show its best over the next four years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

88 Conn Creek 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). This has flavors of black cherry,

raspberry and red currant, with plenty of smoky, new French oak. It’s flashy, but the finish is somewhat quick. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

87 Cinnabar 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Al­exander Valley). Drink this polished Caber-

net now to appreciate its blackberry, currant, herb and cedar flavors. The tannins are astringent, but it shows

WineMag.com | 21

elegance. It doesn’t seem to be a wine for the cellar. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

87 Clos La Chance 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Coast). On first sip, a

ripe, flashy note of blackberry jam hits with force. Then the acidity kicks in, brightening and uplifting the sweet fruit. Drink it now with beef. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

87 Folie à Deux 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This is immediately at-

tractive in blackberry, cherry and red currant flavors, with a subtle coating of smoky oak. With plenty of ele-gance, it’s wonderful for drinking now. It should be rela-tively easy to find, with nearly 20,000 cases in circula-tion. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $20

87 Ghost Block 2009 Single Vineyard Cab­ernet Sauvignon (Yountville). Sweet in

blackberry, blueberry marmalade and cassis flavors, this has notable acidity that provides a scouring mouthfeel. It’s a bit rustic now, especially with its jagged tannins, but the finish is dry and long. Sometimes these wines mellow and age well, but this one doesn’t seem destined to benefit from cellaring. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

87 Milange 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Ripe, jammy fruit and oak star in this

Cab. It offers a mouthburst of cherries and raspberries and sweet char and vanilla. At the age of five-plus years, it’s also quite tannic, with a sandpapery astringency. Doesn’t seem to be an ager, so drink now with a salty, peppery steak. Tasted twice. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $70

87 Nice 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is very rich in blackberries and

currants, bearing lots of oak that adds caramelized toastiness. While the tannins are thick and fine, there’s something rustic on the finish in the form of extracted, candied sweetness and heat. Flashy as it is, you’re best drinking this wine now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $110

87 Nickel & Nickel 2009 C.C. Ranch Cab­ernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). This 100%

Cabernet is very dry, with hard tannins housing black-berry, plum, raisin and cedar flavors. It could develop bottle complexity over the years, but at this price, it’s an expensive risk. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $100

86 16X20 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a proper Cabernet, showing

some rich flavors of black currants and dark choco-late, wrapped into sturdy tannins. Ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $45

86 Ackerman 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Big, tough and totally dry, this

has blackberry and currant flavors. It was grown in the southerly Coombsville area, showing good acidity. It’s

already throwing some sediment, but all bets are off for whether or not it ages. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $75

86 Alpha Omega 2009 Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). This wine’s

overripeness shows up in the form of a bitter, dry, rai-sin taste, with heat from the alcohol. It has a solid core of blackberry fruit and beautiful tannins, but it won’t age. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $140

85 Napa Wine Co. 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A solid if standard Cabernet,

this show typical varietal flavors of blackberries, black currants and anise, with the requisite jacket of toasty oak. Dry and full bodied, there’s some bitterness on the finish that suggests its limited ageability. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $35

84 Chessman 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (North Coast). A little rustic and tattered

around the edges, but its dry, with ripe blackberry fla-vors that veer into tannic, bitter raisin skins. Drink this with a hamburger to round it out. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 JustNat 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley). This is a strong-tasting Caber-

net that lacks subtlety. But if you’re looking for a kick of black currants and lots of tingly acidity, you might enjoy it. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $39

84 Niner 2009 Bootjack Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This tastes sweet

and gooey, like a blackberry and licorice gummy candy, with heat from the high alcohol. Lots of people like this style, but it’s not for everyone. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $32

84 Three Sticks 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). Dry and tannic, this has

a baked quality to its fruit, tasting warm and raisiny. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $70

83 Jellybean Wines 2010 Candy­Apple Red Cabernet Sauvignon (California). As you

might infer from the name, this tastes sweet. It appeals to consumers who enjoy the trend of sugary red wines. You could almost drink it as a dessert sipper, with its candied blackberry and cherry flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $13

83 Wine Spots 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This Cabernet has blackberry

and dried herb flavors, with sizable tannins and pretty hefty acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

82 Rosenblum 2011 Vintner’s Cuvée Caber­net Sauvignon (California). Sharp in acidity

and thin in fruit, this simple Cabernet has dry flavors of sour candy, blackberry, currant and herb. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

82 Stephen & Walker 2009 Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Howell Mountain). This has big, hard

tannins and very high alcohol, lending it a chili-pepper-like heat.. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $65

81 Corley 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Napa Valley). This smells and tastes

baked, with an overripe raisin flavor. It will not improve with further aging. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $72

MERLOT

91 Jarvis 2009 Estate Grown Merlot (Napa Valley). Made using grapes grown in Jarvis’s

mountain vineyard, this is a strongly flavored Merlot. It’s brilliant and intense, with flavors of red cherry pie, red licorice, grilled Canadian bacon and sandalwood. The tannic structure is a joy—soft, furry and complex. There’s lots of oak, too, which lends a smoky edge. Prob-ably at its best now, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $95

90 Saddleback Cellars 2007 Merlot (Napa Valley). This is dry, medium bodied and ex-

traordinarily rich, bearing flavors of baked black-cherry pie, mocha and grilled prosciutto, with a long, spicy fin-ish. So what if it’s too soft, or if there’s a trace of over-ripeness? It’s all part of the wine’s personality. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

89 Keenan 2009 Mailbox Vineyard Reserve Merlot (Spring Mountain). Appealing for its

sheer wealth of flavor, this is very rich and forward, with notes of jammy red cherries, red currants and mocha. It’s a little soft and sweet, and it doesn’t seem to have the structure for the long term. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $64

87 Cinnabar 2010 Merlot (Paso Robles). Give this wine a little time in a decanter before

drinking, as it’s a tight and brittle right out of the bottle. After 30 minutes or so it warms and softens, offering a gently attractive Merlot that’s dry and softly tannic, with pleasing cherry, red currant, licorice and herb flavors. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

87 Keenan 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). Dry and elegant, this has fine berry, currant and cola

flavors that turn sweetly attractive on the finish. With its touch of earthiness, this should pair well with mush-room-based meat and poultry dishes. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $36

87 Sebastiani 2008 Merlot (Alexander Val­ley). This is soft and gentle, with easy berry,

herb, cola and sandalwood flavors. Drink now, as this is about as good as it will ever be. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $17

87 Summers 2009 Ranch Reserve Merlot (Knights Valley). Drink this charming Mer-

lot now for its soft, sweet richness of fruit. With a touch

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

of smoky oak, it shows cherry, red currant and mocha flavors that are wrapped into polished tannins. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

86 V. Sattui 2009 Henry Ranch Merlot (Los Carneros). This is a little too heavy and full

bodied, but it’s bone dry and rich in blackberry and currant flavors, with an earthiness that suggests mush-rooms. Drink over the next year or two. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

85 Pedroncelli 2010 Bench Vineyards Mer­lot (Dry Creek Valley). This is a good every-

day wine if you’re looking for something dry, full-bodied and fruity. It’s not particularly identifiable as Merlot, but it’s easy to drink, with berry and currant flavors and a nice tug from the tannins. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $15

84 Trentadue 2010 Block 500 Merlot (Alex­ander Valley). Ripe cherry and blackberry fla-

vors mark this Merlot. It’s dry and rich in tannins, with a rugged mouthfeel and an overripe, raisiny taste. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $15

84 Wine Spots 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). Despite the Napa Valley address, this ordinary

wine tastes like it could come from anywhere. But it’s a little rough in feel, with currant and plum sauce fla-vors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

GRENACHE

91 Bella Victorian 2008 Romeo Grenache (Sta. Rita Hills). The wine’s dryness, intricate

structure and complexity are easy to enjoy, with deli-cious flavors of cherry pie filling, plum sauce and cured pork. The tannin and acid balance is polished, courtesy of the Sta. Rita Hills’s cool climate. Drink now–2014. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

90 Melée 2010 Grenache (California). This is all about the essence of red cherry, made com-

plex with layers of violet, sweet tobacco and red lico-rice. There’s plenty of toasty new oak, too. It’s one of the prettier California Grenaches out there. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $32

89 Chamisal Vineyards 2009 Estate Bottled Grenache (Edna Valley). Soft and gentle,

but rich in cherry and red currant flavors, this has the rich, umami flavor of a lightly salted and peppered rare hamburger. Pair it with a burger, and leave off the cheese. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $38

SYRAH

93 Terre Rouge 2009 Ascent Syrah (Sierra Foothills). Terre Rouge’s loftiest undertaking

every vintage, this Ascent is a blockbuster. It’s gorgeous-ly spicy and floral, with dark notes of pepper, violet and herb that will live long and prosper in time. Grapes used for this bottling are sourced from cool, high-elevation

vineyards, providing the wine perfect balance between big, bold fruit and provocative acidity. Cellar Selec-tion. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

92 La Clarine Farm 2010 Suma Kaw Syrah (Sierra Foothills). Suma Kaw has been a

vaunted vineyard source for some of the best Syrah in the Foothills. Opening with a gust of peppercorn and an herbal thread of pine, this Syrah dances on the edge of being overwhelming, with intense tannins weaving be-tween the flavors of bright red fruit and smoky meat. It’s enjoyable now, and will drink well in several years, too. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

92 Renaudin 2009 Reserve Syrah (Carner­os). This is dry and velvety in texture, with rich,

complex flavors of cherries, licorice, bacon, Dr. Pepper and savory, peppery spices. A touch of oak adds a sweet smokiness. Almost as light as a Pinot Noir, it’s a very pretty, polished Syrah to drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

92 Terre Rouge 2009 Sentinel Oak Vineyard, Pyramid Block Syrah (Shenandoah Val­

ley). This is a dark, sauvage, Cote-Rotie style of Syr-ah. It’s full bodied, with tannins that have been tamed from the mountain fruit. Slightly warmer than some of Terre Rouge’s others, the finish is lusty and packed with peppery spice. It would pair well with an equally gamy stew. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

91 Bella Victorian 2009 Elena Syrah (Cali­fornia). The California appellation is used be-

cause the winery’s estate vineyard is in Ventura County, north of Los Angeles—a cool-climate, coastal growing region. This is rewardingly dry and complex, with an intriguing cured-meat note along with ripe blackber-ry and cassis flavors. The tannin-acid balance is great, making it a very enjoyable wine to drink now with game, lamb and beef. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

90 Fields Family 2009 Estate Syrah (Lodi). Lodi isn’t the first region that comes to mind

when it comes to California Syrah, but this one could change minds. It has a mountainous mouthfeel, with flavors of tar, blackberry and spice. The wine’s aromas need coaxing, but once they surface, a firm and fruity wine emerges. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $18

90 Terre Rouge 2009 High Slopes Syrah (Si­erra Foothills). Tight at first, this has a fine

tannin structure that wraps around the wine like a scarf. The aromatics come with force, with intoxicating wafts of violet, pepper and herb. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

89 Terre Rouge 2009 Jay Wilderotter Vine­yard Syrah (Shenandoah Valley). A rich,

earthy Syrah from a new Terre Rouge vineyard des-

ignate, this exhibits well-integrated dark red and blue fruit amidst tobacco and herb highlights. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

89 Topel 2007 Cuvee Donnis Syrah (Men­docino). Topel uses the Syrah Noir clone that

was originally sourced from M. Chapoutier to make this tasty wine. It’s packed with spicy red fruit and smooth, silky tannins. On the finish, it has a leathery tobacco note, with the richness of a cinnamon roll. Enjoy this with meaty dishes. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $32

88 Fields Family 2010 Estate Syrah (Lodi). This wine might need more time in bottle be-

fore truly blossoming. Its soft layers of red fruit are just starting to open up. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $18

87 Jason­Stephens 2007 Estate Syrah (San­ta Clara Valley). This has smooth tannins and

plenty of bright fruit flavor. Made in a savory style, the finish on this wine has a leathery bite to it. —V.B. abv: 15.3% Price: $26

87 Naggiar 2009 Estate grown Syrah (Sierra Foothills). A broodingly dark, oaky Syrah, this

has a dash of pepper and intense red fruit. Naggiar con-tinues to make promising Rhone-inspired estate wines from rocky mountain soils. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $21

87 Rosenblum 2010 Fran’s Reserve Syr­ah (Rockpile). This is bone dry, complex

and warm in alcohol. The flavors include blackberries, currants, black pepper and sandalwood, with a meaty, leathery note of beef jerky. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

87 Terre Rouge 2009 Les Cotes de l’Ouest Syrah (California). This is the winery’s fruiti-

er, more accessible Syrah. Full bodied and fruity, it’s fine introduction to Terre Rouge wines. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

86 Adelaida 2009 Anna’s Vineyard Syrah (Paso Robles). Tasting kind of sweet for a

Syrah, this has flavors of blackberry jam, coffee and spice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

86 Morse 2007 Jones Vineyard Syrah (El Dorado County). This is a tight, monstrous

Syrah, with a pocket of black fruit flavor and a dollop of earthiness. It veers into raisiny territory on the fin-ish. —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $24

84 Chalk Hill 2009 Estate Syrah (Chalk Hill). High alcohol stars in this Syrah. Prickly heat

dominates, giving a fiery warmth to the blackberry, cas-sis and grilled beef flavors. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $60

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PETITE SIRAH

92 Summers 2009 Petite Sirah (Knights Val­ley). Grown in a highlands plateau between

Napa Valley and the Russian River Valley, this shows the varietal’s bigtime tannins, but it’s lighter in body than you might expect. It’s delicious in blackberry, currant, grilled meat and sandalwood flavors. This is one of the more elegant and sophisticated Petite Sirahs of the vin-tage. It’s showing its best now and will continue to drink well over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $36

88 Naggiar 2009 Estate Petite Sirah (Sier­ra Foothills). Made from estate-grown fruit

sourced high in the Sierra Foothills, this is a black, true-to-type Petite Sirah. It’s packed with dusty coffee, choc-olate and tobacco. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $29

88 Trentadue 2010 La Storia Petite Sirah (Al­exander Valley). So rich, deeply flavored and

heady, it’s almost like a dessert Port, although it’s dry, not sweet. The blackberry and cherry flavors taste like they were baked into cookies. As you’d expect from a Petite Sirah, the tannins are thick, but nothing you can’t drink now with barbecue. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $50

87 hy.brid 2007 Petite Sirah (Lodi). This is a smoky, fruity Petite Sirah, with 15% Syrah and

5% Viognier in the blend. It’s round and drinkable now, with a dark berry flavor and specks of coffee and choco-late. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $8

87 Rosenblum 2010 Pickett Road Reserve Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). This shows the

dry tannins and heady alcohol that so often mark a young Petite Sirah. It’s full bodied and lusty, with ripe blackberry jam, currant and oak flavors. It’s a little on the rustic side, but fine with barbecue. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $40

87 Shannon Ridge 2010 High Elevation Col­lection Petite Sirah (Lake County). Grown

in the High Valley appellation within Lake County, this is huge, black and packed with blackberry and blueber-ry flavors. It’s decadent like a blueberry pie topped with chocolate sauce. Ready to drink now. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $23

86 Pedroncelli 2009 Petite Sirah (Dry Creek Valley). Considering this is Petite Sirah, this is

surprisingly soft and gentle—almost like a Pinot Noir. The texture is silky, with flavors of cherries, currants, Canadian bacon and black pepper. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $16

86 Stephen & Walker 2010 Petite Sirah (Dry Creek Valley). Fire up the grill and drink this

rustic, lusty wine with ribs and burgers. It’s rustic and high in alcohol, with bigtime tannins framing blackberry and currant flavors. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $46

86 Vagabond 2009 Arrighi Vineyard Petite Sirah (Clear Lake). A tannic and ripe Petite

Sirah, this has flavors of plum, dark chocolate and a se-rious shot of espresso. This is a big bomb of a wine that needs braised meat to match it. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $45

ZINFANDEL

93 Oakville Winery 2010 Estate Zinfandel (Oakville). For full review see page 7. Edi-

tors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

93 Summers 2009 Four­Acre Zinfandel (Cal­istoga). Rich, blood warming and heady, this

has vast and complex flavors of blackberry jam, licorice, bacon, spice and sweet, smoky sandalwood. It’s hard to imagine a better wine to drink with barbecue. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $34

91 Rosenblum 2010 Rockpile Road Vine­yard Zinfandel (Rockpile). While it’s not for

everyone, this is a great expression of Rosenblum-style Rockpile Zin. It’s a big, lusty glass of red wine, warm and heady, with extraordinarily ripe berry, currant and mocha flavors. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $35

90 Rosenblum 2010 Harris Kratka Vineyard Zinfandel (Alexander Valley). This is a ro-

bust, full-bodied Zinfandel. It’s so ripe that the black-berries have a raisiny, Porty note. High in alcohol and spicy, this is a wine that defines a particular style of warm-climate Sonoma Zin. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $45

87 Rosenblum 2010 Monte Rosso Vineyard Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). This shows the

superhigh alcohol that Zins from this vineyard often achieve. It’s bone dry, but it has a heaviness and heat that make it Port-like, with black currant, prune and dark chocolate flavors. —S.H. abv: 15.9% Price: $45

86 Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Zinfandel (Cali­fornia). For full review see page 13. Best Buy.

abv: 13% Price: $8

86 Rosenblum 2010 Planchon Vineyard Zin­fandel (Contra Costa County). There are

lots of ripe, heady flavors of blackberry, dark chocolate, anise and exotic spice in this high alcohol wine. While it’s a bit heavy by itself, it needs food to perk it up and coax out the richness. Grilled beef in almost any form is ideal. —S.H. abv: 15.9% Price: $30

86 Rosenblum 2010 Richard Sauret Re­serve Zinfandel (Paso Robles). The high

alcohol shows through everything else, giving this Zin a chili pepper heat and a distracting Port-like sensation. It’s rich and dry, with firm tannins framing the black-berry and currant flavors. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $30

85 Amelle 2008 Buck Hill Zinfandel (So­noma County). Fruity, simple and lusty, this

is made for barbecue. High alcohol gives sweet heat to the jammy cherry and currant flavors. It really wants to accompany charred meats slathered in sweet sauces. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $24

85 Balletto 2007 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). This is so softly sweet and delicious in

mocha, wild berry, buttery nougat and spice flavors, it’s like a candy bar with alcohol. Easy to drink, with a gen-tle mouthfeel. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $24

84 Armida 2010 Maple Vineyards Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Dry and tannic, this has

deep blackberry-pie and spice flavors. A touch of un-ripeness, suggesting green peppercorns, detracts from the pleasure. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $40

84 Cinnabar 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Briary berry and cedar flavors are marred by

less ripe notes of green herbs. It’s dry, tannic and spicy. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $38

83 Peachy Canyon 2010 Westside Zinfandel (Paso Robles). This is overripe and hot, with

raisin, prune and blackberry jam flavors. If you like this style, it’s a good example of Paso Zinfandel. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $19

81 Adelaida 2009 Michael’s Vineyard Zin­fandel (Paso Robles). This is overripe, with

raisiny, pruny flavors and a hot finish. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

RED BLENDS

94 Oakville East 2009 Core Stone (Oakville). Very rich and voluptuous, this has ripe black-

berry fruit that has a roasted character, as if the berries spent a moment on the grill. It’s deep and impressive, showing tiers of complexity, but it’s also very tannic, with a dry, astringent kick that makes it seemingly undrink-able now. Made from mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, with a drop of Petit Verdot, it’s a wine that needs considerable time in the cellar. Hold until af-ter 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

93 Proximity 2009 Twenty Six (Santa Ynez Valley). Based on Petit Verdot, with the other

four Bordeaux varieties blended in, this is ripe and rich in blackberries, mocha and oak. It distinguishes itself from Napa Valley—which is the unavoidable compari-son—with a pleasurable earthiness and tartness, reflect-ing the Santa Ynez’s cool climate. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $80

91 Alpha Omega 2009 Proprietary (Napa Valley). A blend of mainly Merlot and Cab-

ernet Sauvignon, with smaller amounts of other tradi-tional Bordeaux varieties, this treads perilously close to being too ripe. It shows a hint of raisin, but not enough

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

to interfere with the beauty of the blackberry jam and sweet oak flavors. The tannins are exquisite, in the way of a top Napa Cab. Doesn’t seem to be a longterm ager, so drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $90

90 Atrea 2009 Old Soul Red Wine (Mendoci­no County). This red blend of 59% Zinfan-

del, 20% Petite Sirah, 14% Syrah and 7% Malbec has depth and concentration, as well as length. It has flavors of black and red berries, accented by cinnamon. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $25

90 Casey Flat Ranch 2009 Estate Red Wine (Capay Valley). This is a big, mountain-grown

blend that needs time to open—think about decanting it first. A mix of 50% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, this has a fruity, delicious nose that’s slightly peppery. The palate is surrounded by red and blue fruit and tanker-size tannins, with a plush, cinnamon-kissed finish. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

89 David Arthur 2009 Meritaggio (Napa Val­ley). Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangio-

vese, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it’s a little high in alcohol and astringently tannic, but it has deep flavors of red- and black-fruit liqueurs and new oak. It’s a heady wine that would pair well with robust fare. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $55

89 Topel 2007 Estate Blend (Mendocino). A well-crafted blend of estate-grown Syrah, Cab-

ernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot, this shows the bright-red cranberry fruit of the Cabernet and the spicy, meaty length of the Syrah. Drink this now, prefer-ably with roast chicken. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $36

88 Adelaida 2009 Anna’s Vineyard Version (Paso Robles). There are tons of rich, ripe

flavors in this soft, high-alcohol California rendition of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Based on Mourvèdre and Gre-nache, it offers a blast of sweet cherry jam, blackberry, creamy mocha and spice. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $36

88 Fields Family 2010 Big Red (Lodi). This is comprised of equal parts Zin and Syrah, with

smaller amounts of Carignane, Petite Sirah and Merlot. It’s big and full, just as the name implies, bearing plum-my, meaty notes, with a spicy finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

88 Langtry 2007 Old Soldier Road Tephra Ridge Vineyard (Lake County). A propri-

etary red made of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Mer-lot, this is a nod to Langtry’s best fruit, which is grown on a hillside vineyard on the north face of Mount Veed-er. This is a full blockbuster that’s flavored with red ber-ry and mint, finishing smooth. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

88 Open Range 2008 Red (California). This is comprised of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37%

Syrah, 5% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, with much of the fruit sourced from Mendocino and Lake coun-ties. While its aromatically strong in Syrah, the wine’s

flavors lean more toward Cabernet, with cola, spice and black fruit notes atop layers of softened tannins. The finish is Rhône-like: meaty, with a strong dash of pep-per. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $18

87 Chalk Hill 2009 Estate Red (Chalk Hill). Made from classic Bordeaux varieties with Syr-

ah, it’s dry, rich in tannins and complex, with flavors of blackberry, fresh herb and oak. But it’s quite soft, with extraordinarily high alcohol that gives it a Cognac-like burn. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $70

87 Di Arie 2009 Interlude (Sierra Foothills). Dark, smoky and oaky, this ripe wine tastes very

much of the 40% Primitivo featured in the blend. It has nice structure, with Syrah, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah also in the mix. It’s ready to drink, especially with pasta with an herb sauce. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

87 Jason­Stephens 2007 Estate Meritage (Santa Clara Valley). Comprised of 48%

Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot and 2.5% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this Santa Clara Val-ley red is bursting with rich, big fruit, ending with a quick finish. —V.B. abv: 14.25% Price: $34

87 Kuleto Estate 2009 Frog Prince (Napa Valley). Dry and firm in tannins, this has up-

front blackberry, cherry, oak and spice flavors. It’s a Cabernet Sauvignon-based Bordeaux blend with some Syrah, which brings a smoked meat taste. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

87 Kuleto Estate 2009 Native Son (Napa Val­ley). Easy to drink, this has sweetly ripe, up-

front blackberry and cherry flavors that have a bite of tannin. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Zinfandel, it has a savory spiciness. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

87 Niner 2009 Twisted Spur (Paso Robles). Soft and a little warm in alcohol, this blend has

rich flavors of red berries, red currants, smoked meat and exotic spices. It’s an easy wine to drink with barbe-cue. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $30

87 Shannon Ridge 2010 High Elevation Col­lection, Wrangler Red (Lake County).

Shannon Ridge is quietly becoming the king of Lake County, offering wines of both quality and value and this is no exception. This blend is made of Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvè-dre. The kitchen-sink approach doesn’t muddle the wine in any way; it remains a smooth, fruity, ripe quaff, with a kick of vanilla on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

86 Brander 2010 F/Red (Santa Ynez Valley). Made from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and

Syrah, this has a rustic texture that frames raisin, cur-rant and sandalwood flavors. It will pair well with beef ribs. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $18

86 Concannon 2010 Conservancy, Crimson & Clover (Livermore Valley). This is Con-

cannon’s second vintage of Crimson & Clover—a Pe-tite Sirah-based blend. It offers good value and sweet, smooth flavors, with a hint of licorice and dark chocolate running through. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $15

86 Kuleto Estate 2009 India Ink (Napa Val­ley). Made from Cabernet Sauvignon and

Syrah, this is soft and rich. It’s forward in blackberries, cherries, dried currants and mocha flavors, wrapped into firm tannins. Drink it now before the fruit fades away. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $35

86 Naggiar 2008 Don Giovanni (Sierra Foot­hills). Made from Zinfandel and Cabernet Sau-

vignon, Don Giovanni is a full-bore wine. Its more Zin than Cab in flavor and personality, with bursts of berry and vanilla throughout. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

86 Trenza 2009 Tinto (Edna Valley). This is very strong in fruit, tasting like the essence of

raspberry and cherry, with penetrating acidity. It has a candied jamminess, although the finish is bone dry. Made from Syrah, Tempranillo and Grenache, it’s a fun wine for drinking now with easy fare. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $30

85 Coquelicot 2009 Mon Amour (Santa Ynez Valley). Based on Merlot, this is soft and pretty

simple. The flavors are of red currants, cherry jam, cola and licorice, with a smoky, caramelized sweetness from the oak. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

85 Michael David 2010 Petite Petit (Lodi). Smoky and oaky, this is a blend of 85% Petite

Sirah and 15% Petit Verdot, creating one black, dense, vanilla-infused package that’s rich and ready to drink now. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

85 Naggiar 2010 Mistero (Sierra Foothills). This is an oaky, seemingly sweet, blackberry-

and strawberry-tinged blend of 65% Zinfandel, 30% Sangiovese and 5% Syrah. With an earthy note of sage running through, this is a food friendly wine that’ll re-quire a hearty meal to tame it down. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

85 Stark Raving NV Red (California). Easy drinking, this is rich in raspberry and cherry fla-

vors, with enough acidity to give the fruit a tangy edge. The unusual blend is mostly Tannat, Zinfandel, Caber-net Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 V. Sattui 2008 Paradiso (Napa Valley). Very rich and fruity, yet it tastes pretty sweet.

If you enjoy a candied blackberry flavor, this could be for you. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

85 Vigilance 2010 Cimarron (Lake County). Ripe and broad shouldered, this blend of Zin-

WineMag.com | 25

fandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon is full in flavor and tannins. It’s a perfect pizza wine. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

84 Del Bondio 2008 A Metá (Napa Valley). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah

is ripe—almost overripe—with the blackberries ap-proaching prunes, but it’s dry and smooth, with a good grip of tannins. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $29

83 Smart Cookie 2010 Red (California). This is a sweet red blend with nice packaging, bear-

ing a slightly burnt aroma lurking in the background. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

82 Armida 2010 Il Campo Estate Field (Dry Creek Valley). This is not entirely ripe, show-

ing green flavors and hard tannins. While there is some decent cherry and berry flavors, this blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Carignane can charitably be described as rustic. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

82 Bota Box 2011 RedVolution (California). Costing the equivalent of $5 for one 750-ml

bottle, this is made in a country style, with a jagged mouthfeel and berry flavors that are tinged with green mint and chlorophyll. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20/3 L

81 3 Spells 2007 Blend GHK (Napa Valley). This is tart and also overripe, with a sharp, raisin

taste that leads to a bitter finish. A blend of Merlot, San-giovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $26

OTHER RED WINES

89 Sebastiani 2009 Barbera (Sonoma Val­ley). This is a big, lusty, fruit-forward wine. It

shows Barbera’s tannins, although they’re soft and just need a steak to balance them out. The flavors are of rich, ripe blackberries and cherries. It’s pretty much as el-egant as Barbera gets, considering it is usually rather rustic in California. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $26

88 Clos La Chance 2009 Reserve Petit Ver­dot (Central Coast). Give this young wine

some time in a decanter or glass, as it’s pretty odorous in sulfur right out of the bottle. Dry, full bodied and tan-nic, it has an earthiness to its sweet black-currant and grilled meat flavors. It will be a fine partner, especially for game dishes. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

87 Bella Victorian NV The Painted Lady Dornfelder (Sta. Rita Hills). This is fantas-

tically rich in flavors of cherry pie, milk chocolate, but-tered toast and spice. The texture is fairly light, falling somewhere between Merlot and Pinot Noir. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $47

86 Niner 2009 Bootjack Ranch Malbec (Paso Robles). There are lots of rich, ripe blackberry,

licorice and spicy flavors in this dry Malbec. It feels soft and silky in the mouth, but there’s some heat from the alcohol as well as a touch of overripeness. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $28

85 Keenan 2009 Cabernet Franc (Spring Mountain). This shows some aggressive tan-

nins now, and the fruit is a little overripe, suggesting red currants and shrivelled raisins. It’s also a touch high in alcohol. The tannins are fine and sturdy, but the wine lacks the balance to age. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $60

DESSERT WINES

88 Husch 2011 Late Harvest Gewurztramin­er (Anderson Valley). Rich in apricot and or-

ange marmalade, crème brûlée and vanilla flavors, this dessert sipper has a soft, honeyed richness. The residual sugar is 14.1%, making it fabulously sweet. —S.H. abv: 12.4% Price: $20/375 ml

88 Stephen & Walker 2010 Trust Winery Limited Chardonnay (Mendocino Ridge).

This has an extraordinarily-high level of residual sugar, giving it a very sweet, honeyed taste. The flavors are of pure golden apricots, with accents of tangerines, but-tered toast and vanilla cream. While it’s not overly com-plex, it offers plenty of rich pleasure. —S.H. abv: 12% Price: $65

87 Maestral 2011 Wein der Eisbox Tondre Vineyard Riesling (Santa Lucia High­

lands). This is very sweet in honey flavor, with fruity notes of apricot and orange. It could benefit from great-er acidity to balance the sweetness, but it sure is a deca-dent dessert sipper. —S.H. abv: 10.5% Price: $40/375 ml

85 Herzog 2011 Late Harvest Orange Mus­cat (California). A very sweet wine, this is just

the thing most Muscat lovers will love. It’s delicious in orange jam, tropical fruit and vanilla bean flavors. The acidity surfaces just in time, preventing the sweetness from seeming cloying. —S.H. abv: 8% Price: $20

83 Jeunesse 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). This Cabernet was made to be

consumed as a dessert wine. It’s soft, simple and very sweet, with white sugar and cherry jam flavors. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

NEW YORK

RIESLING

90 Glenora 2010 Late Harvest Riesling (Fin­ger Lakes). Notes of sweet quince preserves,

lilac and lavender gently perfume this aromatic late-harvest Riesling. Quite voluptuous in body, with rich fruit flavor and a lush, creamy texture, it finishes long,

with a hint of sweetness that’s balanced by brisk white-tea astringency. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $30

90 Lamoreaux Landing 2011 Red Oak Vine­yard Riesling (Finger Lakes). This is intoxi-

cating on the nose with scents of white flowers, fresh herbs and honey, layered with hints of smoke and pine needles. Just a shade off-dry, the palate boasts ample peach and pear flavors that are tinged with a bitter lime-skin note and bristling minerality. —A.I. abv: 12.1% Price: $20

90 Ravines 2011 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). One whiff reveals billowing scents

of purple flower, fresh apple, lemon peel and sea salt. Bone dry yet penetrating with flavors of lime skin, green apple and fresh herbs, this is a lush, textural Riesling with outstanding complexity. It finishes steely and crisp —a perfect pairing with fatty hamachi or salmon sashi-mi. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

90 Red Newt Cellars 2010 Sawmill Creek Vineyards Riesling (Finger Lakes).

Swathes of green herbs add a blast of freshness to ripe, rich stone-fruit and quince notes on this bone-dry, sin-gle-vineyard Riesling. It’s remarkably complex, with layers of crushed-stone minerality, lime and lime-pith notes that reverberate on the finish. —A.I. abv: 12.7% Price: $20

89 Glenora 2011 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Fragrant yellow and purple flowers on the nose

and palate of this medium-sweet Riesling add a subtle perfume to all of the ripe, luscious white-peach and nectarine flavors. Hints of wet stone and lime-like acid-ity lend a crisp, tonic tone to the midpalate, extending onto the long, lingering finish. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $16

89 Glenora 2011 Select Harvest Riesling (Finger Lakes). Fresh and floral, this has

scents of green herb, honeysuckle and apple blossom. On the palate, this medium-sweet late-harvest offering is rich and fruity, with concentrated notes of sweet pear and lemon. The finish is long but wraps up elegantly and dry with a kiss of lime peel and pith. —A.I. abv: 9.25% Price: $30

89 Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2011 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Intensely tropical on the

nose and palate, this off-dry Riesling shines with notes of juicy melon, papaya and peach candy, with a hint of white, waxy flower for extra flair. Brisk acidity keeps all that fruity sweetness in check, leading to a sleek, steely finish. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $12

89 Knapp 2011 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Abundantly floral and fruity, with loads of laven-

der, peony and sweet grapefruit notes, this is a dry yet remarkably lush and concentrated Riesling. Vivid acid-ity and lingering hints of lime skin, wax and lanolin add structure and complexity. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

89 Lamoreaux Landing 2011 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Intense stone-fruit and hon-

eysuckle notes merge seamlessly with hints of smoke and crushed stone. While ripe and rich, it’s also pene-tratingly dry, with juicy fruit flavors. It’s gorgeously com-posed with striking lime-juice acidity and a savory, min-erally tone that lingers. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12.8% Price: $14

89 Red Newt Cellars 2010 Tango Oaks Vine­yard Riesling (Finger Lakes). A hint of ex-

otic spice adds dimension to the freshly pressed apple and tangerine skin notes on the nose and palate of this off-dry Riesling. Intense, ripe fruit is balanced by brac-ing lime-juice acidity that lingers long on the finish. —A.I. abv: 9.6% Price: $20

89 Sheldrake Point 2011 Dry Riesling (Fin­ger Lakes). Intensely aromatic, with loads of

sunny peach, apricot and yellow flower aromas, this off-dry Riesling is ripe and concentrated, yet impeccably structured. So fruity, it’s almost tropical on the palate, but it finishes dry and crisp, with penetrating lemon-lime acidity. —A.I. abv: 11.4% Price: $16

88 Belhurst 2011 Semi­Dry Riesling (Sene­ca Lake). Notes of honeysuckle, white peach

and fresh green herb are intensely aromatic. This off-dry effort balances zippy, lemon-lime acidity with lay-ers of ripe, rich fruit. It’s lushly textured, yet it finishes delicately with a bristle of white-tea astringency. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $19

88 Damiani 2011 Davis Vineyard Dry Ries­ling (Finger Lakes). Hints of savory herbs,

lime skins and crushed stones balance the exuberant notes of jasmine and tropical fruit. Dry, yet delightfully fruity, it’s elegantly structured with a lemon-pith astrin-gency that lingers. —A.I. abv: 11.8% Price: $22

88 Heron Hill 2009 Reserve Riesling (Fin­ger Lakes). Bone dry, with bristling notes of

wet stone, slate and petrol, this boasts striking mineral-ity, with undertones of white blossoms, limes and sug-ar cookie that linger delicately on the finish. Brisk with acidity, it would pair fabulously with goat cheese or fatty salmon. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25

88 Hosmer Winery 2011 Riesling (Cayuga Lake). Hints of fennel add a splash of green

to the intense yellow peach, pineapple and honeysuckle flavors of this penetrating, off-dry Riesling. The palate is lush with sweet fruit flavors, but spirited lemon-lime acidity carries it to a dry, elegantly floral finish. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $13

88 Hosmer Winery 2011 Dry Riesling (Ca­yuga Lake). A hint of white flower brightens

the savory notes of fennel, sea breeze and pressed apple on this richly concentrated Riesling. The palate is fresh, dry and zippy, with loads of juicy tangerine, green apple

and slightly underripe stone-fruit flavors. It finishes on a note of steely slate and struck flint. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 11.8% Price: $13

88 Hosmer Winery 2010 Vintner’s Reserve Riesling (Cayuga Lake). Lean and steely,

with penetrating minerality, this bone-dry Riesling just begs to be paired with briny oysters or caviar. The palate boasts delicate apple and pear flavors that are layered with smoke, fresh fennel and a deliciously herbaceous finish. —A.I. abv: 12.1% Price: $25

88 Knapp 2011 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Hints of ripe melon, mango and white tea leaves

permeate the nose and palate of this off-dry Riesling. Intensely fruity, it’s balanced with brisk notes of lime skin and lime pith. It finishes long, with a flash of sugar-laced sweetness. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $17

88 Lamoreaux Landing 2011 Semi­Dry Ries­ling (Finger Lakes). This is intriguing on

the nose, with loads of fresh apple and floral perfume merged with darker tones of petrol and pine needles. Off-dry in style, it’s lush and fruity, with ample melon and stone-fruit flavors. It finishes dry, with a splash of citrusy acidity. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $14

88 McGregor 2011 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). This is subtly perfumed, with hints of

apple blossom, white peach and smoke. There’s a deli-cacy that extends from the nose to the palate on this bone-dry, elegantly structured Riesling. Brisk and re-freshing, the finish ripples with flavors of crushed stone, shale and lime pith. —A.I. abv: 11.4% Price: $18

88 Rooster Hill 2010 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Savory notes of fennel and exotic spice

add a dose of complexity to the sweet apple and pear fla-vors of this dry Riesling. Crisp, clean and refreshing, it finishes with a delicate green-floral note. —A.I. abv: 12.4% Price: $16

88 Rooster Hill 2010 Medium Sweet Ries­ling (Finger Lakes). Luscious tropical fruit

and jasmine notes are framed by hints of fresh green herb and grass. A spray of lemony acidity and smoky white-tea notes add delicate flair to the finish. —A.I. abv: 12.1% Price: $16

88 Silver Thread 2011 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Restrained, rather savory aromas of

dill, fennel, apple and saline are some of the many nu-ances of this dry yet surprisingly supple Riesling. The palate boasts notes of bright apple, lime juice and lime skin, highlighted by a rich, minerally sheen. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $16

88 Treleaven 2010 Dry Riesling (Cayuga Lake). Hints of wet stone add a minerally

sheen to the fresh apple and heady white-flower notes on this refreshing wine. Lemon-lime acidity leads to a long, lean and steely finish. —A.I. abv: 10.9% Price: $15

87 Belhurst 2011 Dry Riesling (Seneca Lake). Boisterous floral notes on the nose lead

to a palate that’s chock-full of penetrating mango, yel-low peach and melon flavors. Not quite dry as labeled, but it’s delightfully quaffable with sprightly tangerine-tinged acidity. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $19

87 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2011 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Shades of smoke, dried herbs

and nut skins add savory tones to this dry Riesling. The palate builds intensity on the midpalate with layers of fresh apple, lime skin and underripe stone fruit, bol-stered by sprightly tangerine-laced acidity. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15

87 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2011 Semi­Dry Ries­ling (Finger Lakes). Ripe mango perfume ex-

tends from the nose to the palate of this bright, tropical, medium-sweet Riesling. Concentrated, with loads of sweet fruits and sunny yellow flowers, it’s a straightfor-ward yet irresistibly juicy sip. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

87 Glenora 2011 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Hints of sea salt and crushed stone add

layers of minerality to this Riesling that’s just a shade off-dry. The palate is concentrated with notes of tanger-ine juice, lemon peel and pressed apples, balanced by puckery lemon acidity. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $18

GEWÜRZTRAMINER

89 Damiani 2010 Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). Lushly textured, with loads of rose-

petal, stone fruit, lychee and pink grapefruit notes, this is an exciting bottling from a winery known more for reds. It’s off-dry, with just the right hint of exotic spice and bitterness on the finish. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

89 Glenora 2011 Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). Classic Gewürztraminer from start to

finish, this luxuriously off-dry sipper bursts with heady rose petal and ripe, rich lychee notes. Zesty and bright with acidity, the finish is marked by delicious hints of lanolin and lime zest. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15

88 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2010 Reserve Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). Notes of

sweet, juicy honey tangerines, stone fruit and musk-melon show on this powerfully fruity, off-dry Gewürz-traminer. It’s juicy and forward, but brisk orange-rind notes and citrusy acidity adds balance and structure. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25

88 Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2010 Gewurztra­miner (Finger Lakes). Boisterous flower and

tropical fruit aromas make for a big bouquet that pen-etrates deeply into the ripe, fruity palate. This is sur-prisingly balanced in body and alcohol for a wine with such bold presence. It finishes long, with hints of gin-

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ger, black tea and pleasantly bitter phenolics. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15

88 Rooster Hill 2010 Estate Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of smoke and spice in-

troduce heady aromas of white flower, lychee and stone fruit. The attack is sweet, with flavors of ripe melon and peach candy, but it tapers elegantly to a dry finish that’s marked with hints of grape-skin astringency. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

88 Sheldrake Point 2011 Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). One of the few Finger Lakes’

Gewürztraminers to exhibit such spot-on varietal typici-ty, this is gorgeously aromatic with loads of honeysuckle, lychee, stone fruit and exotic spice notes. Off-dry, con-centrated and bold on the palate, it’s balanced with just a touch of phenolic bitterness. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $18

87 Keuka Spring 2010 Gewürztraminer (Fin­ger Lakes). Ripe and tropical on the nose, this

off-dry wine is chock-full of fleshy cantaloupe and nec-tarine flavors, balanced by nervy acidity and bitter tea-leaf notes. Full bodied and a tad blowsy, this finishes long on a floral note. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $17

87 Lamoreaux Landing 2011 Estate Bottled Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). Delicate

aromas of apple blossoms and fresh pears belie a sur-prisingly textured, mouthfilling Gewürztraminer, with concentrated stone-fruit flavors and a bristling mineral-ity. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 12.8% Price: $15

86 Casa Larga 2009 Gewürztraminer (Fin­ger Lakes). Grassy, herbaceous tones are a tad

pungent, but they add freshness to this lusciously tex-tured, easy-drinking Gewürz. It’s off-dry, with loads of fleshy yellow peach, pineapple and melon flavors, with delicate tangerine-juice acidity. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

86 Wagner 2010 Semi Dry ­ Estate Bottled Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). Whispers

of smoke and crushed stone add an interesting element to the fleshy, ripe peach and lychee flavors. A tad sugary on attack, but it finishes dry, with a hint of bitter tea-leaf notes. —A.I. abv: 12.8% Price: $13

84 Wagner 2010 Dry Gewürztraminer (Fin­ger Lakes). While the concentrated flavors of

peaches and sweet pears are pleasant, whiffs of smoke and toasted nuts lend a savory, rather atypical character to this dry Gewürz. It’s dry and brisk, with soft, lemony acidity. —A.I. abv: 13.4% Price: $13

83 Silver Thread 2011 Gewurztraminer (Finger Lakes). Hints of chalk dust and sa-

vory stem and leaf notes detract from the bright peach, grapefruit and flower notes on both the nose and palate. Dry in style, but its a shade sugary on the attack. —A.I. abv: 12.3% Price: $16

GRÜNER VELTLINER

87 Stony Lonesome 2011 Estate Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Finger Lakes). The attack

on this light-bodied sipper is unabashedly fruity, with loads of ripe peach and nectarine flavors. It balances out quite nicely with zippy acidity and a dry, steely finish. This is a noteworthy addition to the growing line up of Finger Lakes Grüner Veltliner. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $16

86 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2011 Grüner Velt­liner (Finger Lakes). Sunny and ripe on the

nose, this has loads of yellow peach and apricot aromas, tinged with hints of dried, savory herbs. This dry, medi-um-bodied Grüner is subdued on the palate, but thirst quenching with its vivid acidity and clean, minerally fin-ish. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $18

85 Lamoreaux Landing 2011 Estate Bottled Grüner Veltliner (Finger Lakes). Aromas of

sweet white peach and apple blossoms are lovely on this lean, light-footed Grüner Veltiner. The palate could use a hint more concentration, but it’s lemony and brisk, with pleasant crushed chalk and grass notes. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $20

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

89 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2010 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). Herbal and grassy, with lots

of juicy apple and lemon flavors, this is a dry, yet round and supple Pinot Gris. Effortlessly enjoyable, this fin-ishes quite floral, with just a hint of savory nut skin and smoke. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

88 Lakewood 2011 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). Sweet-pea vines and green herbs add

freshness to the perfumed flower and luscious peach-nectar notes. A classically-styled Pinot Gris, this is dry yet mouthfilling and rich. It finishes long, with notes of stone fruit and black tea leaves. —A.I. abv: 13.2% Price: $14

88 Penguin Bay 2011 Pinot Grigio (Finger Lakes). Hints of honeycomb and beeswax add

heft to the notes of fresh green flower and sweet cit-rus. Ripe yet elegantly composed, this has concentrated fruit flavors that extend onto a long, honeysuckle-kissed finish. —A.I. abv: 12.6% Price: $16

88 Red Newt Cellars 2010 Curry Creek Vine­yards Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). Ripe

notes of stone fruit and apple blossom lend a lavish air to this dry yet penetrating Pinot Gris. It’s big and volup-tuous, but it finishes clean, with lingering minerality and a flash of green flower. —A.I. abv: 14.3% Price: $24

88 Sheldrake Point 2011 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). Just a prickle of effervescence on the

attack braces the palate for a shower of sweet lemon and apple flavors, with hints of fresh dill, white blossom

and lime skin. Dry, lean and effortlessly elegant. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 12.7% Price: $16

87 Hosmer Winery 2010 Pinot Gris (Cayuga Lake). Glimmers of saline, nuts and smoke add

dimension to the sweet apple and lemon flavors. Brisk with acidity, it has a bright, refreshing profile overall. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 13.2% Price: $16

87 Inspire Moore 2011 Peace Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). This has concentrated apple,

mango and lime skin notes that are shaded with tones of smoke, crushed chalk and white pepper. Round and rich on the palate, with a mouthfilling viscosity, it’s bal-anced with a flash of lemony acidity and a tingling tea-leaf astringency. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $17

86 Belhurst 2010 Pinot Grigio (New York). Cool, crisp and tonic from start to finish, this is

an easy-drinking wine with ample sweet apple and wild-flower notes, with shades of smoke, hazelnut skins and delicate lime-juice acidity. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

86 Goose Watch 2011 Pinot Gri­gio (Finger Lakes). Dry yet lusciously

mouth filling, this is subtly floral, with a hefty dose of fresh apple flavor. It’s straightforward but pleasantly quaffable. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 12.7% Price: $16

84 Hector Wine Company 2011 Pinot Gris (Seneca Lake). Savory in style, with a dusty,

chalky minerality, this dry Pinot Gris is crisp and easygo-ing, with a freshly pressed apple flavor that’s marked by whiffs of nut skin and smoke. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $20

SAUVIGNON BLANC

90 Ravines 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Finger Lakes). Ripe, succulent peach and melon fla-

vors mark this dry but lusciously textured Sauvignon Blanc. Crisp and minerally, yet juicy and thirst quench-ing, this has so much dimension in each sip. It finishes quite floral, with just a touch of lime-pith astringency. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $18

89 Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Finger Lakes). Floral and fruity, with

hints of peach, muskmelon and quince, this concentrat-ed Sauvignon Blanc bursts with fruity sweetness on the attack, becoming refreshingly dry and minerally on the midpalate. Lime-like acidity brightens the long, white-peach-flavored finish. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $18

88 Macari 2011 Katherine’s Field Sauvignon Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). Violet

perfume and hints of sweet red berries are intoxicating on the nose of this brisk yet concentrated wine. Deli-

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

cate flavors of gooseberry and white peach are ripe yet elegant, finishing on a crisp, tonic note. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $23

85 White Springs 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Finger Lakes). There’s a slightly dusty, grassy

element to this understated Sauvignon Blanc, but the palate is nicely concentrated, with abundant yellow-peach and tangerine flavors. The lemonade-like acidity is brisk and refreshing. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

84 Hector Wine Company 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Seneca Lake). A nut skin note and

a whisper of smoke add a savory element to the lemon and apple aromas. It’s refreshingly light on it’s feet, with a brisk, tonic mouthfeel. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $18

OTHER WHITE WINES

88 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2010 Rkatsiteli (Fin­ger Lakes). Green herbs and grass add fresh-

ness to the sweet aromas of quince and peach preserves on this interpretation of the Georgian Rkatsiteli grape. Intense fruit flavors persist on the palate, highlighted by lemon-lime acidity and lime-pith astringency. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

88 Goose Watch 2011 Gewürztraminer­Riesling (Finger Lakes). Notes of sweet

pea blossoms, freesia and ripe stone fruits perfume this beautifully executed blend of Riesling and Gewürztra-miner. Light on it’s feet, with zippy acidity, it’s a crisp, thirst-quenching white that finishes on a lavishly floral note. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15

86 McGregor 2011 Rkatsiteli­Sereksiya (Fin­ger Lakes). This is a highly unusual, quirky

blend of the Georgian Rkatsiteli and Moldovan Serek-siya grapes. Tonic and crisp, it offers robust peach and apple flavors on the attack, but fades a bit quickly on the midpalate. Straightforward but refreshing. —A.I. abv: 11.6% Price: $25

ROSÉS

89 Knapp 2011 White Cabernet Franc (Fin­ger Lakes). Quite dry yet intensely fruity, this

has loads of fresh strawberry, red cherry and raspber-ry flavors. This finishes with a touch of sweet fruit and a subtle spray of cherry blossom perfume. It’s an un-abashedly quaffable rosé that’s perfect for entertaining year round. Drink now. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $13

88 Fox Run 2011 Rosé (Finger Lakes). Dry as a bone, with bristling minerality, this is an el-

egant rosé that balances penetrating strawberry, cherry and plum flavors with sharp, lime-tinged acidity and a hint of wildflower. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $20

88 Macari 2011 Rosé (North Fork of Long Is­land). Hints of ripe briar and tart Asian plums

add pucker to the concentrated raspberry and strawber-

ry notes of this elegant, easy-drinking rosé. Brisk acidity and a delicate note of violet-petal spray caps things off. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 12.2% Price: $15

86 Goose Watch 2011 Cabernet Franc Rosé (Finger Lakes). Rose petals and sweet rasp-

berry candy perfume this dry yet lusciously fruity rosé. It’s easy-drinking, bearing generous black-plum and cherry flavors, with just a hint of ripe briar. This is a per-fect apéritif or accompaniment to spicy Thai or Indian cuisine. Drink now. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $11

84 Silver Thread 2011 Dry Rosé (Finger Lakes). There are pretty hints of rose petal

and fresh apple on this dry Cabernet Franc rosé, but it’s a tad savory in style, with layers of smoke, dried herb, leaf and stem. It’s a nice accompaniment to everyday meals. —A.I. abv: 12.1% Price: $16

CABERNET FRANC

90 Red Newt Cellars 2010 Glacier Ridge Vineyards Cabernet Franc (Finger

Lakes). Bold and densely concentrated, this fantastic single-vineyard Cabernet Franc is laden with ripe black fruit, yet it’s balanced by hints of cracked pepper, fresh herb and a gorgeous note of violet- and rose-petal spray. Persistent on the palate, it finishes strong with a mur-mur of velvety tannins and an umami-laden hoisin note. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $39

88 Red Newt Cellars 2010 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Toasted oak adds spice and

vanilla notes to the red cherry, pomegranate and leather flavors. This is forward, structured and rich in body, bal-anced by brisk acidity and a ruffle of fine-grained tan-nins. It finishes long on a minty sour-cherry note. —A.I. abv: 13.7% Price: $19

87 Atwater 2008 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Forward and fruity, with loads of sweet

cherry flavor, this tasty Cabernet Franc boasts shades of briar, cracked pepper and savory dried herbs that add subtlety and depth. Ripe and full in body, it’s balanced by puckery acidity and soft, rippling tannins. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $17

87 Keuka Spring 2010 Cabernet Franc (Fin­ger Lakes). Notes of ripe, fleshy red fruit on

the nose and palate are grazed with hints of smoked meat, nuts and dried sage—an appetizing mélange of sweet and savory elements. While it’s full bodied, the zesty acidity makes for a refreshing yet satisfying sip. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $19

87 McGregor 2007 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of sour Asian plums

and briar patch add complexity to the fleshy cherry aromas of this composed, full-bodied wine. Brisk acid-ity and hints of spice, wet earth and soy sauce lend a

sweet and savory tone to it’s black-cherry-flavored fin-ish. —A.I. abv: 12.7% Price: $25

87 Rooster Hill 2010 Estate Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of cured meat and

dark plum compote entice on the nose of this richly fruity Cabernet Franc. The palate is medium bodied and luscious, with flavors of sweet red plums and cher-ries. Green, leafy notes and nervy acidity add refresh-ment and verve. —A.I. abv: 12.9% Price: $25

86 Lakewood 2010 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). At 15.9% abv, this is a mon-

ster by Finger Lakes standards, but it’s unsurprising perhaps for such a hot vintage. A tad jammy on the pal-ate, it’s sweet with red cherry fruit that’s framed by her-baceous green notes and layers of soft, furry tannins. —A.I. abv: 15.9% Price: $30

85 Lakewood 2009 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Smoky oak, vanilla spice, savory mush-

room and wet earth notes add a savory element to the bright red-cherry and fresh herb flavors. It’s straightfor-ward, full bodied and pleasant drinking, with a medium-long finish. —A.I. abv: 13.3% Price: $16

85 Seneca Shore NV Amulet Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). The red cherry flavor is bright

and concentrated, marked by savory tones of roasted beet, spice and a hint of pencil shaving. It’s medium-bodied, with a brisk, easy-drinking mouthfeel. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

85 Six Mile Creek 2009 Cabernet Franc (Fin­ger Lakes). High toned black-cherry and ber-

ry aromas lead to the concentrated palate that’s full of ripe sour cherries, marked with dried thyme and a spray of lemon acidity. It finishes on a slighty briary note, with a hint of green and soft, velvety tannins. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

85 Wagner 2008 Estate Bottled Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Lean red-cherry and

briar scents lend an elegant tone to this brisk, medi-um-bodied Cabernet Franc. The palate is a shade rip-er, with black cherry and plum flavors, countered with hints of earth, green leaf and ripe but coarsely grained tannins that linger. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

87 Ventosa 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Fin­ger Lakes). Rose petal and cherry blossom

aromas are stunning additions to the scents of black cherry and exotic spice. Full bodied, with a deep, fruity palate, it’s full of ripe black-fruit and crisp red-cherry flavors that are wrapped up in a blanket of silky tannins. —A.I. abv: 13.2% Price: $23

86 Standing Stone 2008 Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Finger Lakes). Flavors of ripe plums

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and cherries dusted with graham cracker crumbs and purple flowers are pleasant on this delicately structured Cabernet. It’s straightfoward on the palate, made in a lean, crisp style, with a fresh layer of green leaves and stems that linger. —A.I. abv: 12.2% Price: $25

85 Fulkerson 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Finger Lakes). Herbaceous and brisk, this

elegant, medium-bodied Cabernet perks up on the pal-ate with its crisp red-fruit and acidity. Straightforward yet pleasantly accented with hints of violet and black coffee, it would pair well with a variety of earthy, fall braises. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $14

85 McGregor 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Finger Lakes). This is pleasant and complex

on the nose, with hints of violet, ripe black cherry and a savory meat note that lingers. The palate could use a tad more concentration, but it’s elegant in style with lean cherry flavor and a flurry of fresh green and floral accents. —A.I. abv: 12.7% Price: $30

RED BLENDS

90 Red Newt Cellars 2010 Viridescens (Fin­ger Lakes). Hints of thyme, sage, violet and

coffee are just a handful of the nuances that color this composed Bordeaux-style Blend. Brisk acidity balances the bold, ripe fruit, leading to a fresh, herbaceous finish with penetrating tannins. Drink now over a long eve-ning, or better yet, cellar it for 3–5 years to let all of the components come together. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 13.9% Price: $52

88 Imagine Moore 2007 TRUTH Red Table Wine (Finger Lakes). Notes of sweet vanil-

la and biscuit crumbs add a warm, sweet touch to the nose and palate of this elegant Bordeaux-style blend. Bright acidity accentuates the flavors of tart red plums and raspberries along with a flurry of fine-grained yet penetrating tannins that linger. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $22

88 Keuka Spring 2010 Epic Reserve (Finger Lakes). Fleshy, ripe black-fruit flavors are ac-

cented with hints of dried herb and dark, toasted oak on this rich, concentrated Bordeaux-style blend. Zingy acidity and a supple layer of tannins add texture and bal-ance, finishing on a delicious spiced-cherry note. —A.I. abv: 12.8% Price: $25

87 Atwater 2009 Red Table Wine Meritage (Finger Lakes). Forward and rich, with fla-

vors of luscious red cherries spiked with cola and pur-ple flowers, this is an easy-drinking yet undeniably tasty blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Big, chunky tannins and a spray of sour-cherry acidity add depth and verve to the midpalate. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $21

86 Atwater 2009 Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon­Merlot (Finger Lakes). Notes

of violet petal and graham cracker crumb accent juicy red plum and cherry flavors on this full-bodied blend of

Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The tannins are coarse and a tad grippy, but they taper out nicely toward the finish. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25

86 Inspire Moore 2010 Truth Reserve Mer­lot­Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Juicy

black cherry and violet notes permeate throughout this easy-drinking Merlot-based blend. Luscious and fruity, but bold in style, it holds up well to the coating of grippy tannins. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

85 McGregor 2007 Rob Roy Red (Finger Lakes). Hints of black coffee, dried lavender

and herb add punch to the lean plum and cherry flavors of this medium-bodied Cabernet Franc blend. Brisk on the palate, with an herbaceous, green note that persists, it finishes firm, with a chalky coating of tannins. —A.I. abv: 12.7% Price: $40

PINOT NOIR

88 Keuka Spring 2010 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Aromatic with ripe black plums, violets

and cedar, this elegant Pinot Noir is chock-full of red cherry and dried plum flavors, fringed with soft, velvety tannins. Vibrant acidity leads to a long finish, flecked with graphite and dried herb notes. —A.I. abv: 12.3% Price: $19

87 Casa Larga 2009 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of mushroom and autumn leaf

add complexity to this Pinot Noir’s dried cherry, straw-berry and violet aromas. The palate boasts an ample black-cherry flavor and delicate tannins that linger on the finish, melding into a dark chocolate and graphite-tinged note. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15

87 Fulkerson 2009 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Savory, rustic notes of dried mush-

room and toasted nuts mingle with richly concentrated black-cherry and rose-petal flavors on this dry, medium-bodied Pinot Noir. Soft tannins and just a shade of toast-ed oak add richness and dimension to the palate. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $16

87 Six Mile Creek 2010 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). This is zesty and bright, bearing puck-

ery pomegranate and red berry flavors, with an element of briny, umami-laden goodness that brings truffles and smoked nuts to mind. Soft tannins lead to a sour-cher-ry-flavored finish that’s flecked with notes of herbs and dried leaves. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $16

86 Lakewood 2009 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Delicate sour cherry and plum flavors

are intensified by notes of black coffee, fresh green herb and aromatic cedar. This medium-bodied Pinot Noir is earthy and savory, with refreshingly high acidity. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $16

86 Seneca Shore NV Amulet DeMarco Vine­yards Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). A tart

sour-cherry note is warmed by hints of sweet vanilla and

freshly shaven cedar on this brisk, sprightly wine. Hints of wet leaves and brine add a tinge of savoriness to the palate. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

DESSERT WINES

91 Sheldrake Point 2010 Ice Wine Riesling (Finger Lakes). While buoyantly aromatic

with aromas of superripe tropical fruit, honeysuckle and waxy honeycomb, this top-notch ice wine is remarkably elegant in profile. On the palate, concentrated honey and tangerine flavors are matched with steely acidity that reigns the palate in toward a dry, crisp finish. Edi-tors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 9.1% Price: $60/375 ml

90 Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2010 Ice Wine Vidal Blanc (Finger Lakes). Sticky, sweet

scents of pineapple, honey and preserved peach are an apt precursor to the intense ripeness of this honeyed ice wine. The palate oozes with butterscotch and caramel notes, yet it finishes almost dry, with a sweep of acidity that hits the palate like a blade. —A.I. abv: 10.7% Price: $70/375 ml

89 Casa Larga 2008 Fiori Delle Stelle Ice Wine Vidal Blanc (Finger Lakes). Sweet

confectionery aromas and a butterscotch richness ex-tend from the nose to the palate on this ice wine, meld-ing with ripe mango and pineapple flavors. Steely acid-ity and a hint of bitter toffee add balance and dimension to the finish. —A.I. abv: 11.7% Price: $45/375 ml

89 Standing Stone 2010 Vidal Ice Vidal Blanc (Finger Lakes). Intensely aromatic

with notes of orange blossom, honeysuckle and candied orange peel, this balances ripe tropical fruit and creamy butterscotch flavors with a shower of lemonade acidity. Made using grapes that were frozen post-harvest. —A.I. abv: 11.7% Price: $25

88 Mazza Vineyards 2010 Ice Wine Vidal Blanc (Lake Erie). Once you get beyond the

billowing violet and gardenia notes on the nose and pal-ate, you’re likely to find a surprisingly delicate sip that’s bright with lime-juice acidity and honeyed pineapple and hibiscus-nectar flavors. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $43/375 ml

87 Lucas Vineyards 2010 Iced Vidal Blanc (Finger Lakes). Rich and honeyed on the

nose and palate, this is chock-full of superripe tropical fruit notes, spiked with hints of white truffle, black tea and sweet brioche. It’s an interesting mélange of yum-miness, but there’s just a hint of something chemical on the nose and palate that distracts. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $25

WASHINGTON

CHARDONNAY

94 Gorman 2011 The Big Sissy Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley).

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

A consistent winner, this single-vineyard Chardonnay is barrel fermented in 100% new French oak, using wild yeast. The scents and flavors are exceptionally detailed, running from fresh clover into tree fruit, yeast and lots of toast. It has structure, grip and length. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $35

93 Abeja 2011 Chardonnay (Washington). Another classic vintage of Abeja Chardonnay,

this is a memorable style that’s built around yummy barrel flavors of toast and caramel, with notes of stone fruits. The three vineyard sources—Celilo, Conner Lee, and French Creek—form a perfect crescent across the state and capture the essence of three quite different AVAs. It has lovely texture and length, with impeccable balance throughout. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $36

92 Browne Family Vineyards 2010 Chardon­nay (Columbia Valley). This is the inaugural

release for Browne Family Chardonnay. Crisp and lee-sy, it has a smooth, creamy midpalate, with a buttered toast highlight. Refreshing acidity and excellent length keep it fresh and lively. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $35

92 Efesté 2010 Lola Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). This is concentrated and complex, with

hints of flower, citrus flesh and rind, gooseberry and chamomile. It’s labeled Columbia Valley but the Ever-green Vineyard, from where the grapes are sourced, sits in the heart of Washington’s next likely American Viti-cultural Area—Ancient Lakes. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $30

91 Apex 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia Val­ley). For full review see page 9. Editors’

Choice. abv: 14% Price: $17

91 Lauren Ashton 2011 Chardonnay (Co­lumbia Valley). For full review see page 9.

Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.1% Price: $25

91 Sleight of Hand 2010 The Enchantress Old Vine Chardonnay (Yakima Valley).

It’s rare that domestic Chardonnay is truly Chablis-like, but this delicately framed wine fits that description per-fectly. Nuanced with mineral and spice notes, this has melon and apple flavors that seem to sail on a gentle sea breeze. It doesn’t slam you with oak, instead it seduces with you style. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $28

90 Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). This has

melon, grapefruit and lime flavors that are buoyed by generous acidity. Aged in French oak on its lees for nine months, this is lightly toasty, nicely balanced, and drink-ing perfectly right now. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $20

89 àMaurice 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Quite oaky on the nose, showing lots

of caramel and butterscotch flavors on the palate, this Chardonnay is anchored by its apple and peach flavors.

It opens up nicely with some breathing time; decanting would not be out of order. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

89 Six Prong 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). This crisp, clean, stainless-steel style of

Chardonnay brings has mixed flavors of cucumber, cel-ery, lime and light melon. It’s fresh and immaculate—a wonderful sipper. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $12

88 Hogue 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia Val­ley). For full review see page 13. Best Buy.

abv: 13.8% Price: $11

87 Bridgman 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). The nose is spicy and enticing, with

highlights of pineapple and grapefruit. On the palate, the fruit is tart but nicely balanced, with defining acidity and a finishing pat of butter. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $11

87 Lone Birch 2011 Chardonnay (Yakima Valley). This new producer’s family has been

farming in the Yakima Valley for four generations. A fine debut, this has clean apple and peach flavors, with sup-porting acids and a sensible price. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

87 Waterbrook 2010 Reserve Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Strong scents and flavors

of oak and spice mask the fruit. It feels a bit flat on the palate, as if heading toward early oxidation. The oak and butterscotch flavors carry through onto the finish. Two bottles tasted. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

86 Airfield Estates 2011 Unoaked Chardon­nay (Yakima Valley). Sharp and spicy, this is a

high-acid, stainless-steel-fermented wine, with a green berry note and a hint of melon. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

86 Hogue 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (Yaki­ma Valley). Just 183 cases were made of this

wine, which has firm stone fruits and a more-than-gen-erous amount of toast and butter. If you like your Char-donnays on the extra oaky side, this is for you. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $25

85 Page Cellars 2010 Autumn Chase Char­donnay (Columbia Valley). Sourced from

the Sundance Vineyard, this is a soft and oaky Chardon-nay, with a round, buttery finish. Best enjoyed in the next year or two. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $19

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

89 Lone Birch 2011 Pinot Gris (Yakima Val­ley). With balance and grip, this lightly effer-

vescent wine rolls from a pretty pear flavor into a light tropical fruit note. It’s hard to beat at this price. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $13

88 Waterbrook 2011 Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley). Spicy and herbal, with a palate rem-

iniscent of Sauvignon Blanc, this blends a grassy aro-ma with a mix of citrus, apple and pear notes. It has excellent concentration through the midpalate, with a clean, fresh finish. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $12

87 Airfield Estates 2011 Pinot Gris (Yaki­ma Valley). There is a sweet streak running

through the fleshy fruit flavors of pear and peach. This is pure Pinot Gris, balanced with high acidity, sweet fruit and slightly bitter flavors of skin and rind. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $15

86 Hogue 2011 Pinot Grigio (Columbia Val­ley). For full review see page 13. Best Buy.

abv: 12.7% Price: $11

RIESLING

93 Efesté 2011 Evergreen Vineyard Riesling (Columbia Valley). Marvelous details of tea,

honeysuckle and lemon mark the entry of this excep-tional Riesling. It’s vivid and textural, with terrific acid-ity, backbone and length—cellar worthy for sure. Cel-lar Selection. —P.G.abv: 12.1% Price: $18

92 Bridgman 2011 Riesling (Columbia Val­ley). In a state with a plethora of Riesling

riches, this is a standout. Full, fresh, bright and com-plex, it opens with a bouquet of lime, citrus blossom and tea scents. The flavors follow—off-dry, detailed, balanced and vivid. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 11% Price: $11

90 Washington Hills 2011 Late Harvest Riesling (Washington). For full review see

page 12. Best Buy. abv: 11% Price: $10

88 Lone Birch 2011 Riesling (Yakima Val­ley). This is a good, round, fruity style of Ries-

ling. It’s off-dry (2.6% residual sugar), with flavors of pineapple, sweet tangerine and Meyer lemon. The fruit is simply delicious; drink now. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

88 Sleight of Hand 2011 The Magician Ever­green Vineyard White Wine Riesling (Co­

lumbia Valley). Despite its 2.4% residual sugar, this is a tart, lemony wine that seems made to enjoy with raw oysters. The searing acidity is not for everyone, but if you like lip-smacking tartness, this has the depth and flavor to match it. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

88 Waterbrook 2011 Riesling (Columbia Val­ley). Off-dry and loaded with flavors of lemon,

honey and tea, this is a rather fleshy Riesling. The al-most 2% residual sugar leads into a slightly sweet finish. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.2% Price: $12

85 Airfield Estates 2011 Riesling (Yakima Valley). The 2011 vintage created wines with

WineMag.com | 31

underripeness and low alcohol, and this Riesling at-tempts to cut the sourness with its 2.4% residual sugar. It comes across as a mix of lemon juice, orange juice, and simple sweetness. —P.G. abv: 11.2% Price: $15

85 Pine & Post NV Riesling (Washington). This nonvintage Riesling offers light apple fla-

vors and a hint of spice. —P.G. abv: 11% Price: $8

SAUVIGNON BLANC

92 Barrister 2011 Klipsun Vineyard Sauvi­gnon Blanc (Red Mountain). An excellent

follow-up to the luscious 2010, this features a generous array of melon, citrus and light tropical fruits. There is noticeable residual sugar—much in the style of the Sancerres from French producer Cotat—but at one-third the cost. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $19

92 Efesté 2011 Feral Sauvignon Blanc (Co­lumbia Valley). Texture, texture, texture—

that’s the story with this wine. Fermented using wild yeast, this Sauvignon Blanc dazzles the palate with notes of sweet grass, clover, grapefruit and mineral. It’s made in a lip-smacking, tart and tangy style, with a wet stone finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $20

88 Avennia 2011 Oliane Sauvignon Blanc (Yakima Valley). Sourced from the Boushey

Vineyard, this is a tart take on Sauvignon Blanc. Once past the acid rush, you’ll find a tightly focused wine, with laser-like precision and a wealth of mineral and lemon flavors. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

88 DiStefano 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Co­lumbia Valley). Grassy and audaciously her-

baceous, this is a fresh and high-acid Sauvignon Blanc, finishing with a blast of pepper. The blend includes 10% Sémillon. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $13

88 Page Cellars 2010 Sentimental Blonde Sauvignon Blanc (Red Mountain). Ripe

and accessible, this Klipsun Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc includes 20% Sémillon in the blend. Melon and light citrus flavors abound, with enough acidity to keep it fresh and lively. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $19

87 Tildio 2011 Lonesome Spring Ranch Sau­vignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). Lightly

scented with a Riesling-like petrol note, this pungent, grassy Sauvignon Blanc offers a crisply focused mix of celery, green berry and spring herb. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $20

86 Airfield Estates 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Yakima Valley). This is lightly grassy and

quite fresh. Whatever the residual sugar may be, it sim-ply helps round out the searing acidity. —P.G. abv: 11.7% Price: $15

VIOGNIER

93 àMaurice 2010 Viognier (Columbia Val­ley). Superconcentrated, unctuous and lush,

this mixes a note of lemon drop with a hint of ripe tropi-cal fruit. On the palate, this shows terrific concentra-tion, bearing hints of honey and lemon curd, with a crisp, lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $25

91 Abeja 2011 Viognier (Walla Walla Valley). This much-sought-after, estate-grown Viognier

is in short supply in 2011, but it’s exemplary for its struc-ture and class. Flavors of lime skin and grapefruit, wet stone and citrus abound. The cool vintage led to low yields—under two tons per acre. All neutral oak was used. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $28

91 Mark Ryan 2010 Viognier (Columbia Val­ley). Smooth and silky, this lovely Viognier be-

gins with flavors of citrus, lemongrass and fresh herb, before continuing into a well-rounded, full-flavored midpalate that hints at just a touch of residual sugar. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $28

WHITE BLENDS

92 Lauren Ashton 2011 Cuvée Méline (Co­lumbia Valley). For full review see page 8.

Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.4% Price: $28

91 Brian Carter Cellars 2010 Oriana (Yaki­ma Valley). An aromatic blend of 46% Viog-

nier, 37% Roussanne, 17% Riesling, this bears com-plex scents and flavors of oranges and apricots, which are joined by notes of grapefruit and melon, and com-plemented with juicy acidity. One-third was barrel fer-mented in neutral oak, and a portion was left on its lees for added texture. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $25

91 Cadaretta 2011 sbs Sauvignon Blanc­Semillon (Columbia Valley). For full review

se page 9.abv: 13.1% Price: $23

91 Southard 2010 White (Columbia Valley). A blend of Viognier and Roussanne, this hum-

bly-labeled white is a revelation. On the palate, it has the style and sleekness of fine Burgundy, with flavors running through a spectrum of herb, citrus and tree fruits. This is polished and seductive. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

90 Thurston Wolfe 2011 PGV (Washington). Bright, fresh and fruity, this is loaded with cit-

rus—especially grapefruit—goodness. There are lay-ers of pears and peaches, making this a big, fruity, mouth-filling wine. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

87 Airfield Estates 2011 Flygirl (Yakima Val­ley). This spicy white blend mixes Viognier,

Sémillon and Pinot Gris. Notes of green berries and other green fruits—notably banana—all have an herbal underpinning. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $15

85 Domaine Pouillon 2010 Blanc du Mou­lin Roussanne­Viognier (Horse Heaven

Hills). From the cool 2010 vintage, this the blend of 80% Roussanne and 20% Viognier comes across as slen-der and yeasty, simple and tart. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $24

OTHER WHITE WINES

92 Lauren Ashton 2011 Roussanne (Colum­bia Valley). For full review see page 8. Edi-

tors’ Choice. abv: 13.2% Price: $25

89 DiStefano 2011 Sémillon (Columbia Val­ley). This round, fruity and smooth-drink-

ing Sémillon carries touches of herb and cucumber alongside its main fruit flavors of citrus and melon. There is a hint of heat on the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $28

88 Lone Birch 2011 Gewürztraminer (Ya­kima Valley). Just a hint of sweetness is per-

ceived, coming from the 1.1% residual sugar. Fresh and fruity, with grapefruit and orange flavors dominating, this is forward, round and flavorful, with just a hint of steel in its spine. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $13

87 Domaine Pouillon 2011 Gewürztraminer (Columbia Valley). This wine puts the floral

aspects of the varietal front and center. Rose petal and flower-soap aromas lead onto the palate that bears simi-lar flavors and a hint of residual sugar. It shows nice con-centration. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $16

ROSÉS

92 Lauren Ashton 2011 Rosé of Sangiovese (Columbia Valley). For full review see page

8. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $18

92 Southard 2011 Lawrence Vineyard Le Paon Rosé (Columbia Valley). Put this into

a blind flight of French rosé, and it will seem like one of the crowd. Crafted from 65% Grenache, 29% Syr-ah and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is bone dry, dusty and detailed, showing a gorgeous onion-skin hue. The elegance and length are exceptional. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

91 Efesté 2011 Babbitt Rosé (Columbia Val­ley). Mostly Syrah, with some Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon, this is a succulent rosé with a marvelous mouth-feel. Texture and length are its main charms, with nu-anced notes of rose petal, hibiscus, watermelon and pie cherry. The vineyard sources are Klipsun, Boushey and Ciel du Cheval. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

90 Board Track Racer 2011 The Vincent Rosé (Columbia Valley). This brings mixed

notes of melon and stone fruit, with a hint of toast and nougat on the finish. Smooth and lingering, this has ex-ceptional body. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

90 Sleight of Hand 2011 The Magician’s As­sistant Cabernet Franc Rosé (Yakima Val­

ley). Complex and finessed, this has loads of flavor. The pretty cherry and plum notes are framed with a milk chocolate accent. The modest alcohol in no way dimin-ishes the concentration. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $18

86 Gilbert Cellars 2011 Mourvèdre (Colum­bia Valley). Very pale copper in tone, this is

a delicate rosé that’s made entirely from Mourvèdre. Hints of peach, melon and a light flower top note are evident. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $15

83 Ott & Murphy 2011 Chanson Rosé (Co­lumbia Valley). This rosé—a blend of Tem-

pranillo and Grenache—is light on flavor. A thin note of watermelon and a hint of peach pit quickly fade. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

95 Abeja 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum­bia Valley). Complex and compelling, this es-

tate-grown Syrah sends up smoky notes of cured meat, nougat and caramel. Black cherry fruit anchors the bar-rel notes, and it just gets more and more delicious as it winds its way across the palate. This is a solid demon-stration of classy winemaking and perfect balance. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $44

95 Mark Ryan 2009 Lonely Heart Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). For full review

see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.7% Price: $80

94 Gorman 2009 The Albatross Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain).

This reserve-level Cabernet—made from grapes sourced partly from 35-year-old vines—is lovely in its wealth of detail. A brambly, elegant mouthful of ber-ry and cherry flavors mingles with a note of rose petal. The finish is soaked in graphite, with length, grip and finesse. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $80

93 Alder Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). For full review see

page 6. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

93 Efesté 2009 Big Papa Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Columbia Valley). This is pure Cab-

ernet that was sourced from four vineyards, with vines averaging 31 years. True noninterventionist winemak-ing is in play to make this chewy, tight and dark effort.This is grainy and dense, with notes of cassis, coffee and cacao. A thread of smoke and a touch of gravel contrib-

ute further to the concentrated finish. Cellar Selec-tion. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $49

92 Rasa Vineyards 2009 Creative Impulse Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). This

blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Merlot is sourced from the excellent DuBrul Vineyard. The fruit is magnificent, smoothly presented in a flow of cherry, plum and prune flavors. It seems soaked in chocolate, with a Bourbon-barrel highlight. The tannins are fine-grained and contribute to the overall length. —P.G. abv: 15.3% Price: $95

91 Gorman 2008 The Bully Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Red Mountain). Big and quite tannic,

this is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Pe-tit Verdot. The combination of Red Mountain fruit and the naturally tannic Petit Verdot is balanced against by the tart, juicy berry flavors and the influence from hav-ing aged in 100% new French oak. Nothing shy here, but the floral and citrusy aromatics add a welcome layer of complexity. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $45

90 Cadaretta 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co­lumbia Valley). For full review see page 9.

abv: 14.9% Price: $40

90 DiStefano 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co­lumbia Valley). Smooth and spicy, this high-

lights its pretty cherry fruit, with generous barrel flavors of coffee and dark chocolate. The tannins are rounded, adding a bit of coal dust to the flavor mix. This is an ideal wine to accompany a thick, well-marbled steak. —P.G. abv: 15.4% Price: $28

90 Hogue 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Columbia Valley). Good juice an-

chors this Cabernet blend, with the 13% Malbec and 10% Merlot filling in the flavors. Cassis and pomegran-ate notes hit first, followed by darker notes of cacao and coffee, dotted with black pepper. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

90 Rasa Vineyards 2009 Plus One Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Crisp and pen-

etrating, with great fruit purity, the wine’s core bears cassis and black cherry flavors. The tannins are supple, even silky, and the finish is smooth, with dark accents. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $75

90 Sheridan Vineyard 2010 Cabernet Sau­vignon (Yakima Valley). Lush and gener-

ous, this has a center of blackberry fruit, showing barrel accents of sweet baking spices. Notes of graphite and clean earth round out the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

89 Hyatt 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rattle­snake Hills). For full review see page 12. Best

Buy. abv: 13.9% Price: $12

88 Crossfork Creek 2010 Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Yakima Valley). The grapes used for

this estate-grown Cabernet are sourced from younger

vines. Round and full, the wine seems to have spent a fair amount of time in barrel, showing pretty baking spices along with tangy fruit. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $20

87 Gilbert Cellars 2009 Doc Stewart Vine­yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke

Slope). Using grapes sourced from an older vineyard on the Wahluke Slope, this pure Cabernet mixes black-berry and black cherry fruit with a lightly smoky core. It thins out quickly, and shows a hint of green in its tan-nins. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

87 Roza Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rattlesnake Hills). This is a sophisticated

Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated, Bordeaux-style blend, with 9% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec. It carries a note of leather and drying tannins, suggesting that you should drink it fairly soon. It should be deli-cious with a grilled steak. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $14

87 Three Rivers 2009 Seven Hills Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Val­

ley). This shows smooth, varietally correct fruit, howev-er, the flavors are a bit muted. The softness is pleasant, but takes the lift out of the wine, finishing with drying tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $39

86 Six Prong 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). With scents that

are high toned and slightly green, this sharp and leafy Cabernet includes smaller percentages of Malbec, Pe-tit Verdot and Merlot that are sourced from the Alder Ridge Vineyard. Compact flavors of cassis, smoke and earth combine to form its core. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

85 Airfield Estates 2010 Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Yakima Valley). A tough vintage turns

out a tough wine—chewy, tart, slender and herbal. Some pretty blackberry fruit is tucked tightly into the core, but it is overtaken by the acidity and drying tan-nins. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

84 Page Cellars 2007 Preface Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Using grapes

sourced from a Red Mountain vineyard, this pure Cab-ernet seems to have been overripened. Notes of rai-sin and prune appear on the nose and palate, and the mouthfeel is chalky and a bit flat. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $37

MALBEC

90 àMaurice 2009 Malbec (Columbia Val­ley). Pretty and deep, this has notes of juicy

boysenberry, blueberry and cherry. The balanced acid-ity and racy tannins give it substance and style. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $35

89 Roza Ridge 2009 Malbec (Rattlesnake Hills). Nicely concentrated, with a touch of

Petit Verdot in the blend, this complex effort incorpo-

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rates notes of tangy berry, forest leaf and a hint of mint. The barrel influence lends coffee and light toast notes, which are symmetrical and proportionate. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $20

89 Thurston Wolfe 2009 McKinley Springs Vineyard Malbec (Horse Heaven Hills).

Only two barrels were made of this pure Malbec, a tightly wound wine with a well-defined mix of berry, bramble, bark and herb. It shows good balance and good length, with a finish that’s streaked with notes of coffee and chocolate. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

85 Tildio 2009 Malbec (Columbia Valley). Using grapes sourced from the excellent Still-

water Creek Vineyard, this is a ripe—to the point of be-ing pruny—yet acidic red wine. The unsettled mix of raisiny fruit and chalky acids may or may not shake out with further bottle age. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $35

MERLOT

90 Hyatt 2009 Merlot (Rattlesnake Hills). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.

abv: 13.9% Price: $12

88 Hogue 2007 Reserve Merlot (Wahluke Slope). This is a very late release for this 2007

Merlot, and the wine is well on its way to full matu-rity. Smooth and supple, its fruit is drying out, showing cherry-flavored fruit leather as the main component. Streaks of coffee and tobacco fill in the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $30

88 Roza Ridge 2009 Merlot (Rattlesnake Hills). This Merlot has a fair splash of both

Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. It does not shy away from underbrush accents of leaf and herb, adding com-plexity to the cherry fruit. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $14

87 Hogue 2008 Genesis Merlot (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 11.

abv: 14.2% Price: $16

87 Waterbrook 2009 Reserve Merlot (Co­lumbia Valley). This is a bit lighter than the

previous vintage, offering tart red-berry fruit, accent-ed with a note of fresh herb. The chocolaty barrel ac-cents smooth out the midpalate and lead into a pleasant finish. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $24

86 Airfield Estates 2010 Merlot (Yakima Val­ley). Firm, hard, tart and chewy, this has tight

black fruits, high acids and earthy tannins, which are lightened with a note of pretty baking spice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

85 Tildio 2009 Merlot (Wahluke Slope). This is a fruity Merlot with a strong lemony streak.

There are hints of pepper as well. Drink soon. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

RED BLENDS

95 Lauren Ashton 2009 Cuvée Arlette (Red Mountain). For full review see page 4. Cellar

Selection.. abv: 14.9% Price: $50

95 Mark Ryan 2009 Long Haul Merlot­Cab­ernet Franc­Malbec­Petit Verdot (Red

Mountain). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selec-tion. abv: 14.8% Price: $48

94 Lauren Ashton 2009 Cuvée Mirabelle (Red Mountain). For full review see page 4.

Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.9% Price: $52

94 Lauren Ashton 2009 Proprietor’s Cuvée (Red Mountain). For full review see page 5

Cellar Selection. abv: 14.9% Price: $50

94 Mark Ryan 2009 The Dissident Merlot­Cabernet Sauvignon­Syrah­Malbec­Petit

Verdot (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.7% Price: $32

94 Soos Creek 2009 Champoux Vineyard (Horse Heaven Hills). Absolutely huge fruit

blows out of this bottle as soon as it’s opened. A rush of gorgeous black cherry is buoyed by snappy acidity and generously finished with smoke and coffee accents from having aged in 50% new oak. Details of iron and baking spice emerge also, and the silky tannins glide through a lengthy and delightful finish. A blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $40

94 Soos Creek 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vine­yard Red Wine (Red Mountain). For full

review see page 5. Cellar Selection.abv: 14.1% Price: $35

93 Gramercy Cellars 2009 L’idiot du Village (Columbia Valley). This is modeled on south-

ern Rhône blends—a fairly straightforward mix of 85% Syrah and 15% Grenache. Grainy and smoky, with a slight charred aspect, this focused effort displays deep pomegranate fruit, soaked in soy, balsamic and other umami notes. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $42

93 Mark Ryan 2009 Dead Horse Cabernet Sauvignon­Cabernet Franc­Malbec­Mer­

lot­Petit Verdot (Red Mountain). For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.7% Price: $52

93 Soos Creek 2009 Artist Series #9 (Co­lumbia Valley). This new Artist Series red

is like a reserve version of the 2009 Palisade, with a similar blend—79% Cabernet Franc and 21% Cab-ernet Sauvignon. Tight and tannic, it has excellent structure and depth, with a black fruit note, and a

mocha-flavored finish. The muscle is there to reward cellaring for up to a decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

92 Brian Carter Cellars 2009 Corrida Tempranillo­Merlot­Cabernet Sauvignon­

Garnacha­Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

92 Brian Carter Cellars 2007 Solesce Red Wine (Yakima Valley). For full review see

page 7. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.6% Price: $60

92 Sleight of Hand 2009 Archimage (Co­lumbia Valley). A blend of 50% Merlot and

50% Cabernet Franc, this has an intriguing spicy ac-cent that’s reminiscent of fresh pine. It’s front-loaded with generous blueberry fruit that’s streaked with an an-ise note, flowing nicely into the polished tannins. This shows good focus and length. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $45

92 Soos Creek 2009 Palisade (Columbia Valley). The Palisade blend swings widely

from year to year: pure Merlot one year, no Merlot the next. Here the principal grape is Cabernet Franc, with a little Cabernet Sauvignon also. Smoky and focused, it’s a riot of loganberry, blueberry and other blue and purple fruits. The tangy mouthfeel brings in streaks of coffee and mineral, with a tart, elegant finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

91 àMaurice 2009 Red (Columbia Valley). Upon opening, it’s compact and tangy, with

deep fruit flavors of raspberry, red plum and pie cherry. There is a lot of life to this wine, with fresh and clean fruit flavors. It needs time to develop in the bottle. A blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 33% Merlot. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $35

91 Brian Carter Cellars 2008 Trentenaire (Columbia Valley). Based on Petit Verdot,

this blend is tart and toasty as well as tangy and seem-ingly slightly sweet from its luscious black fruits. Pep-pery tannins and highlights of cedar and roasted meat add further interest. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $50

91 Cadaretta 2009 Windthrow (Columbia Valley). Windthrow is a southern Rhône-style

blend—66% Syrah, the rest a mix of Mourvèdre and Grenache. Dense, dark and smoky, it’s got a peppery nose, followed by bright raspberry fruit and an accent of roasted game bird. The wine has both lift and length, with sharp acidity. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $50

91 Efesté 2009 Final­Final Cabernet Sauvi­gnon­Syrah (Columbia Valley). This shows

the textural depth of all the Efesté wines. A floral top note gives way to firm, dark, cassis and blackberry fla-vors. Light notes of herb, anise and earth are introduced and set comfortably into the lengthy finish. It has great

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

power and flavor, with the possibility of cellaring for a decade or more. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $27

91 Gorman 2009 Zachary’s Ladder (Colum­bia Valley). It’s labeled simply Columbia Val-

ley but in fact it’s made from all Red Mountain fruit. Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, with a splash of Petit Verdot, this is quite ripe and sweetly juicy—like a big bowl of blackberries. Aged in once-used French oak, it has picked up some char and graphite notes. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $30

91 Soos Creek 2009 Sundance (Columbia Valley). A great vintage for the Sundance Red,

this is 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc and 14% Syrah. The addition of Syr-ah really livens up the mix. It’s a supple, sappy, sinuous red, with rich and complex cherry and berry fruits. The 30% new oak is not only lavish for a $20 wine, but it judiciously complements all of the good fruit. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

91 Southard 2010 Sugarloaf Vineyard (Yaki­ma Valley). This bone-dry, Southern Rhône-

style blend consists of 61% Grenache, 18% Mourvèdre, 12% Cinsault and 9% Counoise. Elegant and detailed flavors of light berry and Bing cherry are dusted with a cocoa accent. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

91 Thurston Wolfe 2008 The Geologist Pre­mium Red Wine (Washington). For full re-

view see page 9. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Brian Carter Cellars 2008 Le Coursier (Columbia Valley). This five-grape Bordeaux-

style blend is 52% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 6% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot. A strong flower notes marks the nose, with just a sugges-tion of body powder. The core of cherry and berry fruit is ripe and round, dusty and dense. The balance of fruit and acid is just right, and the tannins are accented with a dusting of cocoa. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

90 Brian Carter Cellars 2008 Tuttorosso (Ya­kima Valley). Made in a super Tuscan style,

this blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syr-ah is lush and lovely. Lightly floral aromatics introduce notes of berry, plum and a whiff of leather. It xcellent balance and structure, with soft, yielding tannins. It was finished in 20% new oak. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $35

90 Cadaretta 2008 Springboard (Columbia Valley). Though given extra bottle age prior to

release, this remains a bit stiff and tannic. Floral high-lights and smoky tannins book-end the black fruits. Deep cassis and a bit of licorice wind through the finish. This is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Cellar Se-lection. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $50

90 Gorman 2009 The Evil Twin Syrah­Cab­ernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). This is

pretty much the same blend as Zachary’s Ladder, but with higher alcohol and all new French oak. Perhaps the wine is not yet fully resolved, as the gamy Syrah and grippy, tannic Cabernet seem to be butting heads. The broadly displayed red fruits leave a chalky finish. —P.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $65

90 Thurston Wolfe 2009 Dr. Wolfe’s Family Red (Washington). This is a particularly fine

vintage for the popular Dr. Wolfe’s, maintaining the cus-tomary blend of Primitivo, Lemberger and Petite Sirah. Dark and smoky, with dense flavors of berry, cassis, lico-rice and dark chocolate, it is far more substantial than most red blends in this price range. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

89 Brian Carter Cellars 2008 Byzance (Co­lumbia Valley). This is Brian Carter’s South-

ern Rhône-influenced blend, which is comprised of 50% Grenache, 22% Syrah, 19% Mourvèdre, 6% Cou-noise and 3% Cinsault. Expressive aromas put the em-phasis on bright berries that are annotated with baking spice, toast and a hint of forest leaf. This is complex and forward, with excellent balance and structure. The fin-ish fades gently with a hint of anise. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

89 DiStefano 2008 Proprietor’s Reserve Ot­timo (Columbia Valley). A blend of Caber-

net Sauvignon, with 10% Syrah added in, this is an ap-pealing and forward wine, with a strong streak of barrel spice. Powdered sugar, cooked cherry, cassis and dark chocolate are the highlights. It showcases the lush, for-ward, spicy, barrel-influenced style of all the DiStefano reds. —P.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $53

89 Sheridan Vineyard 2010 Mystique (Ya­kima Valley). This Merlot-dominant red

blend displays classic Yakima Valley flavors that are well-integrated and balanced for medium-term (6–8 years) aging. The fruit is on the tart side, with accents of earth and herb. The tannins are textural and somewhat drying. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

89 Southard 2010 Lawrence Vineyard (Co­lumbia Valley). This is a blend of 90% Gre-

nache and 10% Syrah, sourced from a single vineyard. The fruit is very tart, rather light, with a pretty cher-ry highlight. The tannins are firm, hinting at a stem flavor. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

89 Thurston Wolfe 2010 The Spaniard (Horse Heaven Hills). A blend of mostly Gr-

enache, with smaller amounts of Tempranillo and Syr-ah, this is smooth and polished, with dried fruit flavors. It bears a leaf note and a whiff of mint, with a muscular, tannic finish that adds complexity. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $20

88 Barrister NV Barrister Block (Columbia Valley). A concentrated burst of raspberry li-

queur comes with a side order of prune and plenty of

smoky charcoal. Mouth-filling and tannic, this Cab-ernet-based blend is built for near-term enjoyment. —P.G. abv: 15.3% Price: $32

88 Brian Carter Cellars 2009 Abracadab­ra (Columbia Valley). This reliable blend is

made from up to 11 different grapes. A riot of fruit, berry and spice, it’s a fine all-purpose red with good bal-ance and lift. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

88 DiStefano 2008 domenica (Columbia Val­ley). Made from mostly Merlot, this accessible,

smooth-drinking blend is well on its way to maturity. Pretty plum and chocolate flavors meld with soft, mel-low tannins and a touch of barrel spice. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $24

88 Efesté 2009 Tough Guy (Red Mountain). This Merlot-Cabernet Blend is quite tannic,

chewy and tight. It certainly does not lack flavor, how-ever, the notes of cassis and peppery herbs are set in a rough-and-tumble frame of massive tannins. This one needs to be paired with a thick, greasy steak. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $55

88 Ott & Murphy 2008 Radieux (Columbia Valley). A five-grape Bordeaux-style blend, this

has a scent of rose water that drifts above earthier notes and tart berry flavors. Tight and focused, it finishes with a lick of cola and espresso. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $31

88 Sleight of Hand 2009 The Illusionist (Co­lumbia Valley). This is very spicy and smooth,

with floral accents and a plummy core. It drinks well, although the finish fades rather quickly. A blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, with Syrah and Cabernet Franc filling in the rest. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $45

87 Airfield Estates 2010 Mustang (Yakima Valley). Although this is comprised of more

than 50% Syrah, this five grape Rhône-style blend seems more influenced by the Grenache. Plenty of mixed berry flavors surface quickly, proving to be bright and spicy, before running into some drying tannins that are marked with a green edge. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

87 Board Track Racer 2010 The Vincent (Washington). Forward and fruity, this is

a tight, tart wine with a jumble of berry and bramble flavors. It’s peppery, spicy, but don’t look for too much complexity. Gulp it down for the enjoyable quaffer that it’s meant to be. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $20

87 Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2009 Rock Island Red (Columbia Valley). This shows a hint of

green in its scents and tannins. Firm berry and cassis fruit anchors the palate, with tannins that remain a bit unyielding. Give this one a decanting, and it will soften up. A blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvi-gnon, —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $20

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86 Domaine Pouillon 2009 Katydid G­S­M (Horse Heaven Hills). This red pushes a

pretty cherry fruit flavor forward, letting the fruit rather than new barrels, do the talking. It’s a tasty, with good balance and medium length. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

85 Gilbert Cellars 2008 the pilgrim (Wahluke Slope). This blend of Syrah and Malbec was

sourced from the estate’s Doc Stewart Vineyard. Light, tart rhubarb and watermelon flavors show an accent of mocha. Drink up. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $15

85 Seven of Hearts 2010 Chatte d’Avignon G­S­M (Columbia Valley). Quite light and a

bit diffuse, this southern Rhone-style red has a pretty rose petal accent, along with berry and balsamic flavors. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $25

84 Domaine Pouillon NV Black Dot (Horse Heaven Hills). This is a nonvintage blend of

Zinfandel, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault. Well on its way to maturity, it’s an easy-drinking quaffer, with a hint of bitterness on the finish. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $20

84 Page Cellars 2008 The Norseman (Red Mountain). A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon and 50% Merlot, The Norseman—named for a vintage airplane—mostly masks its fruit in a wash of earth, herb, stem and tannin. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

84 Six Prong 2010 Red (Columbia Valley). Tannic and tight, this shows some reductive

scents of tar and rubber. Smoky cassis and strong herbal notes lead into a quick finish with some bitterness. Two bottles tasted. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

83 Page Cellars 2008 Libra (Columbia Val­ley). Light strawberry fruit is quickly overtak-

en with bitter, stemmy flavors and thick, heavy tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $25

SYRAH

96 Corliss Estates 2007 Syrah (Columbia Valley). This winery gives its wines extra years

in bottle prior to release, and it pays off with powerful, muscular, densely structured that have been polished to a fine luster. This Syrah emphasizes fruit, not funk, with opulent flavors of black fruit, dried cherry, fig and plum. The 30 months it spent in two-thirds new French oak adds dark streaks of coffee and cocoa. It shows tre-mendous depth, and it could be cellared for another few years—but why wait? Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 15.4% Price: $55

96 Gramercy Cellars 2009 Lagniappe Syrah (Columbia Valley). For full review see page

3. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.7% Price: $45

94 Gorman 2010 Behind the Black Curtain Reserve Syrah (Red Mountain). This pure

Syrah—the first reserve Syrah from Gorman—pulls out all the stops. It’s a tannic, bold, earthy and powerful wine that’s loaded with black fruits. Aged for 20 months in 100% new French oak, it takes the wood in stride, adding Red Mountain minerality to the mix. —P.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $80

94 Gramercy Cellars 2009 John Lewis Syr­ah (Walla Walla Valley). Aged in French oak

puncheons, this youthful, citrusy, big and smoky wine seems to flicker in and out—like an old movie—with each sip revealing a different view of the landscape. Herb, cacao, cassis and balsamic flavors intertwine. The lengthy finish is balanced and structured. Cellar Selec-tion. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $75

93 Abeja 2010 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Complex and compelling, this estate-grown Syr-

ah sends up smoky notes of cured meat, nougat and car-amel. Black cherry fruit anchors the barrel notes, and it just gets more and more delicious as it winds its way across the palate. This demonstrates classy winemaking and perfect balance. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $38

93 Crossfork Creek 2010 Dark Matter Syr­ah (Yakima Valley). Crossfork Creek is a new

label for Sheridan Vineyard, designed, says winemaker Scott Greer, as his laboratory for vinous experimenta-tion. This meaty, smoky, dense and chewy Syrah is one of the first releases. The black cherry and cassis flavors are accented with a touch of cola, and the wine resolves with a firm, substantial and somewhat tannic finish. Ed-itors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

93 Lauren Ashton 2009 Syrah (Red Moun­tain). For full review see page 6. Editors’

Choice. abv: 14.9% Price: $43

93 Southard 2009 Lawrence Vineyard Syr­ah (Columbia Valley). Dark and bloody, this

masterfully mixes layer upon layer of detail. Red meat, black olive, cassis and earth roll across the tongue, while hints of flower and chocolate linger in the nose. Com-plex, tart and earthy, this is as good as it gets in this price range. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

92 Mark Ryan 2009 Les Vignes de Marcoux Lost Soul Syrah (Yakima Valley). No one

does a better job with the Syrah from this vineyard than Mark Ryan McNeilly. Here, the peppery, just-ripe fruit is washed in a caramel bath. The flavors are long, and despite all of the barrel influence, the grapes have the muscle and texture to stand out equally. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $48

91 Avennia 2010 Arnaut Syrah (Yakima Valley). Using grapes sourced entirely from

Boushey Vineyard, this well-structured Syrah has a clar-et-like refinement. Sleek and focused, it offers raspber-ry and black cherry flavors, with a tight, taut structure

and length. Some notes of leaf and earth trickle onto the finish. —P.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $45

91 Delmas 2010 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). A first release from this new Walla Walla win-

ery, this is complex and textural, made using estate-grown grapes from a vineyard in the section of the valley known as The Rocks. Notes of black cherry and umami-soaked funk swirl together, with a strong streak of black tea and syrupy coffee. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $50

91 Mark Ryan 2009 Wild Eyed Syrah (Red Mountain). Still tight and chewy, this lushly-

fruited Syrah mixes berry and cherry flavors with earth-ier, mineral-driven bass notes. It will require a bit more bottle age to unwind and decompress, but it has all of the ingredients of a wine with staying power. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $48

91 Sleight of Hand 2010 Levitation Syrah (Columbia Valley). Though quite differ-

ent stylistically from the 2009, this is just as good. The structure in 2010 is noteworthy for its high acid focus. There are streaks of berry and cassis, with touches of smoke and espresso. This is a wine to cellar while you are drinking up the delicious 2009. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $40

91 Sleight of Hand 2010 The Funkadelic Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Sourced from

a small vineyard in the The Rocks of Walla Walla, this shows classic, terroir-driven umami flavors. It’s as if the fruit were soaked in seaweed, then lifted on a platform of rock. It has lovely aromatics, with a rather delicate finish that’s nuanced with cherry and tar. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

91 Sleight of Hand 2009 Levitation Syr­ah (Columbia Valley). This mixes blueber-

ry, boysenberry and blackberry notes with a dressing of Bourbon and chocolate. Smooth and satiny, this is drinking exceptionally well at the moment. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $40

90 Avennia 2010 Parapine Syrah (Yakima Valley). This blends fruit from Red Mountain’s

Force Majeure Vineyard and Boushey Vineyard. Fer-mented using native yeast, it shows black cherry, cola and earth, with a drying finish that’s redolent of wet ce-ment. This is complex and even delicate. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $35

90 Soos Creek 2009 Commander Comet Syrah (Washington). Made using Syrah from

the Boushey, Riverbend, and Lewis Vineyards, this is a spicy, lively wine, with bright boysenberry fruit and citrusy acids. Give it some time to breathe, and it be-comes downright exuberant, with a lightly peppery fin-ish. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

89 àMaurice 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Peppery and trending toward stemmy flavors,

this has a phenolic bite. The brambly berry fruit runs quickly into a slightly warm finish. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $34

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

89 Gorman 2009 The Pixie Syrah (Red Mountain). This ultraripe and fruity effort

tastes of raspberry compote. There are drying tannins and a hint of bark or leaf, with just a bit of warmth on the finish. The fruit comes from two of Red Mountain’s finest sites—Kiona and Ciel du Cheval – —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $45

89 Roza Ridge 2009 Syrah (Rattlesnake Hills). For full review see page 15. Best Buy.

abv: 13.9% Price: $14

87 DiStefano 2008 R Syrah (Columbia Val­ley). Quite dry on the palate, this seems less

ripe than the previous vintage. The opening flavors are dominated by earth and stem—rather than fruit—fol-lowed by notes of baking spice, coconut and caramel. —P.G. abv: 15.7% Price: $28

87 Hyatt 2009 Syrah (Rattlesnake Hills). A strong streak of pure vanilla highlights the fla-

vors here. The fruit tastes of fresh-picked strawberries. This is 100% Syrah made from estate-grown fruit. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $12

84 Airfield Estates 2010 Syrah (Yakima Val­ley). A note of barely ripe wild berry is quickly

overtaken by a strong, green-herb core. It turns bitter and slightly medicinal on the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $18

84 Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2009 Syrah (Co­lumbia Valley). Thin and tight, this high-ac-

id Syrah is stubbornly closed. It’s difficult to predict when—or if—it will open up. Right now, it doesn’t show much beyond acid and stem. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

83 Page Cellars 2007 Syrah (Red Moun­tain). Using grapes sourced from the Klipsun

Vineyard, this disappointing effort is stemmy and tan-nic, with a bitter finish. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $37

TEMPRANILLO

86 Ott & Murphy 2009 Tempranillo (Colum­bia Valley). Pleasant and simple, this offers

light strawberry and cherry flavors, with a pretty streak of mocha. The finish shows some earth and stem notes. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $23

85 Tildio 2009 Reserve Estate Tempranil­lo (Lake Chelan). Slender and acid driven,

this Tempranillo, with its light berry and herb flavors, resolves with a lemony, chalky finish. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $35

82 Tildio 2008 Estate Tempranillo (Lake Chelan). An extremely smoky nose—to the

point of drowning out all of the other scents—leads into a tannic, chalky palate that bears little varietal charac-ter. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $27

OTHER RED WINES

93 Mark Ryan 2009 Crazy Mary Mourvèdre (Red Mountain). You’d have to be crazy not

to love this Mourvèdre for its distinctive, intriguing take on this Southern Rhône grape. Mineral, flint, plum and spice notes surface in abundance—all in perfect bal-ance. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $48

91 Brian Carter Cellars 2010 1 Grenache (Columbia Valley). Using Grenache sourced

from the moderately cool Lonesome Springs Vineyard, this is slightly leafy, with notes of forest floor, blueber-ry and blackberry. This is the first pure Grenache ever made by Brian Carter. It doesn’t just taste like a big bowl of berries; it has power and depth to spare. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $50

91 Thurston Wolfe 2009 Zephyr Ridge Vine­yard Petite Sirah (Horse Heaven Hills).

This is a brambly, blueberry-laden Petite Sirah, with black cherry, plum and chocolate highlights. Firm, ripe tannins bring a streak of lemon verbena. It’s gen-tly earthy, absolutely flavorful and drinking beautifully. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

90 Roza Ridge 2009 Petit Verdot (Rattle­snake Hills). A deep raspberry flavor is set in

a vivid frame of spicy herb and toasty barrel accents. The finish is crisply defined, with slightly peppery tan-nins. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $20

88 DiStefano 2008 Sogno Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). After a soft entry, some

drying tannins and maturing flavors of hazelnut and toasted wheat kick in. This is styled for near-term con-sumption, and it will pair best with some grilled meat. —P.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $28

88 Three Rivers 2009 Weinbau Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). This

has very tight and concentrated fruit—a mix of rasp-berry, blueberry and cherry. But the wine, despite its depth, does not have much complexity or layering of fla-vors. It tastes similar to a ripe, fruity Zinfandel. Drink up. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $39

85 Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2009 Barbera (Columbia Valley). There is nothing wrong

with this wine, but it shows no particular varietal charac-ter. It’s a soft, mocha-inflected, all-purpose red. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $25

DESSERT WINES

94 Brian Carter Cellars 2009 Opulento Des­sert Wine Touriga­Souzao­Tinto Cão (Ya­

kima Valley). For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice.abv: 19% Price: $20/375 ml

92 Thurston Wolfe 2009 Touriga Nacional Port (Yakima Valley). Gorgeous and authen-

tic, this full-flavored, Port-style wine renders deep, fla-vors of black cherry and cassis liqueur. Dark veins of chocolate syrup and coffee liqueur pump through the mix, making it smooth as butter. It’s a wine that could age—but why wait? Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 19% Price: $16/375 ml

88 Thurston Wolfe 2010 Sweet Rebecca Or­ange Muscat (Yakima Valley). Fortified

with a splash of brandy, this sweet Orange Muscat bears dense flavors of candied oranges and lemon slices. It’s a rather thick, almost viscous dessert wine, with mouth-coating richness. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 16% Price: $13/375 ml

OTHER NORTH AMERICA

MICHIGAN

84 Villa Mari 2007 Row 7 Red (Old Mission Peninsula). This is a medium-bodied wine

with notes of dried rose, spiced pastry dough and sour cherry. It finishes short and dry, with faint flavors over-laying the firm, tannic framework. —A.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $50

83 2 Lads 2009 Cabernet Franc­Merlot (Old Mission Peninsula). A blend of 70% Caber-

net Franc and 30% Merlot, this feels a little light on flesh, providing little cushion to the high acids. A camp-fire smokiness underscores the rusty dark-fruit note, which ultimately finishes a bit short. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $NA

83 Brys 2010 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Old Mission Peninsula). A hit of sulfur slowly

blows off to reveal aromas of hot stone and maple syrup, with undertones of dark stone fruit and dill. The medi-um-bodied palate offers soft acids that lend a slightly flat feel, with mild tannins adding some support. —A.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

MISSOURI

86 Montelle 2009 Norton (Augusta). This smells like red roses were muddled with Dr.

Pepper and a slice of dark cherry pie. From the start, the palate feels soft and pliable, with mild tannins add-ing a subtle, dusty texture. A hint of cherry chapstick marks the finish. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $22

86 Mount Pleasant Winery 2010 Estates Vi­gnoles (Augusta). While this is full bodied,

with an unctuous quality, it has plenty of acidity to keep the palate feeling lively and defined. The notes of but-terscotch, candied apple and citrus blossom are pleas-ing, leading to a brisk and slightly warm finish. —A.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

85 Augusta Winery 2009 Chambourcin (Au­gusta). Blueberry compote, blackberry and

dill-butter aromas are strung together with threads of raisin and medicinal mint. Integrated, medium-grained

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tannins and proportioned acids create an agile mouth-feel, although the flavors seem to drop out a bit on the midpalate. Best Buy. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $10

85 Augusta Winery 2009 Norton (Augusta). Tight-lipped aromas of golden fig and dried

strawberry are underpinned by a touch of chocolate. Supple and chocolaty tasting on the palate, this has bal-anced tannins and acids that lend just-enough structural support. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $18

85 Les Bourgeois 2011 La Belle Semi Dry (Missouri). Fruity and floral smelling, this has

key aromas of Fruit Loops, orange blossom and apri-cot, with graham cracker and peanut shell subtleties. It tastes off-dry, with an unctuous feel, finishing with some cling and a zingy citrus-zest flavor. Best Buy. —A.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

85 Mount Pleasant Winery 2010 Estates St. Vincent (Augusta). This is a red-smelling

wine, with a note of strawberry-rhubarb preserves as the primary aroma. Light to medium bodied, it has a glossy feel due to the lithe tannins and well-managed acids. Easygoing and enjoyable, it finishes with a ripe strawberry-shortcake note and a slight tea-like bitter-ness. —A.H. abv: 12.4% Price: $24

85 Mount Pleasant Winery 2008 Bethlehem Valley Norton (Missouri). Alluring aromas

of tobacco, forest floor, smoking incense and chocolate are well defined. Supportive tannins frame its soft core, while conspicuous acids ramp up the earthy flavors. It finishes long, with a lingering note of dark stone fruit. —A.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $25

84 Mount Pleasant Winery 2008 Estates Norton (Missouri). Soft on entrance, this

gains acidic steam across the palate, which drives the dialed-down flavors of berry and prune. With its mod-est alcohol content, this would make for a good match with a peppered roast-beef sandwich or other casual fare. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $35

83 Les Bourgeois 2011 Solay (Missouri). Wooly aromas of white orchard fruit and toasty

peanut shell define the nose. On the palate, zesty ac-ids propel the modest white-peach flavor, leading to a slightly short but clean finish. —A.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

83 Les Bourgeois NV Fleur du Vin Fruity Semi Dry (Missouri). Muffled, shy aromas

are redolent of cherries, dried flowers and pear drops. Soft and rounded, the palate has a sweet quality about its core, with mild acids and a dusting of tannins. —A.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

83 Mount Pleasant Winery NV Dry Norton (Missouri). Flavors of berry preserves and

toast are loosely concentrated, with peppy acids that

charge the palate. It finishes rather short on flavor; the tannic grip is the lasting element. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $12

83 Mount Pleasant Winery 2007 Bethlehem Valley Norton (Missouri). Notes of spiced

toast, Raisinets, hickory and prune mingle on the smoky, slightly baked nose. The flavors are concentrated and intense, but the baked quality is a little too distracting. —A.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $25

82 Montelle 2010 Chambourcin (Missouri). This has a mild, soft nose, with scents of broad

black fruit, boiled asparagus and peppered meat. The palate is full bodied, with ripe tannins. A note of sour black-raspberry candy marks the finish. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $15

82 Mount Pleasant Winery NV Villagio Off Dry (Missouri). The timid nose squeaks out

notes of Chinese five spice and warm green apple, with a slight hint of sulfur. Light to medium bodied, the pal-ate bears a slight sweetness, tame acids and a quick fin-ish. —A.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $9

NEW JERSEY

87 Unionville Vineyards 2010 Pheasant Hill Single Vineyard Estate Bottled Pinot Noir

(New Jersey). Flavors of raspberry jam, pain grille, spice box and dark cherry are forward and succulent, thanks to the juicy acidity and flexible tannins. An herb-al rose note surfaces on the midpalate, leading to a warm, persistent finish. Enjoy this with grilled salmon with a soy-ginger glaze. —A.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $36

84 Unionville Vineyards 2010 Estate Bottled Dry Riesling (New Jersey). This has a soft

core that’s framed by citrusy acids, with an oxidative ap-ple flavor that starts out with full steam, but loses some momentum on the midpalate. Try pairing this with crab cakes with a mild celeriac remoulade. —A.H. abv: 12.3% Price: $16

NEW MEXICO

88 La Chiripada 2010 Artist Series I Viogni­er (New Mexico). A highly aromatic and ex-

pressive wine, this explodes with scents of baked pine-apple, ruby grapefruit, tangerine and apricot preserves. Fleshy, concentrated and focused, the palate has plenty of animated acidity. The flavor intensity is solid on the medium-to-long finish, ending with a touch of warmth. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $20

86 La Chiripada 2010 Winemakers’ Select White (New Mexico). The striking aromas of

cantaloupe, nectarine, flower-blossom honey and cur-rant bud are slightly tainted with a sulfurous note of ex-pired matchstick. Sprightly acids lend the rich palate a vivacious quality. The medium-long finish fades with a flavor of Orange Tang. —A.H. abv: 12% Price: $16

86 La Chiripada 2009 Artist Series I Dolcet­to (New Mexico). Medium to full bodied, this

has juicy acidity that creates a succulent tartness, with notes of dark fruit, char and a slightly raisinated tone. The textural, upper-lip-grabbing tannins are reminis-cent of fine powdered sand, remaining strong onto the finish. —A.H. abv: NA Price: $32

85 D.H. Lescombes 2009 Pinot Noir (New Mexico). Notes of sweet pipe tobacco, dark

fruit liqueur, mint-chocolate and raisin mingle on the medium-intense, ripe-smelling nose. Medium in body, this has a texture defined by its salient acids rather than its tannins, creating a bright feel. The light tannins add a dusty quality to the finish, concluding with hints of raspberry coulis and cherry. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $18

85 Vivác Winery 2009 Petite Sirah (New Mexico). The aromas of cola, java chip, licorice

and cherry are pleasant and plentiful, ultimately evolv-ing into grapey dark-fruit and cedary spice flavors. With its medium-grained tannins, modestly concentrated flavors and supporting acids, this should pair well with burgers or other casual foods. —A.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

84 Vivác Winery 2009 Sangiovese (New Mexico). Touches of dill, cherry, rose and cas-

sis compose this wine’s soft-spoken nose. On entrance, it pops with a dark fruit flavor, but loses some steam on the midpalate. Minimal tannic traction lends a slick texture, while the uplifting acids make the palate glow. —A.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

83 Vivác Winery 2009 Montepulciano (New Mexico). The spiced dark-cherry and black-

berry aromas come with a rusty edge, leading to a palate that’s marked by vivid acids and trifling tannic support. In general, this is lithe and easy, a wine that would pair well with pizza. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $19

83 Vivác Winery 2009 Tempranillo (New Mexico). This smells like a melted Luden’s

cough drop sprinkled with coffee grounds and spices. Medium bodied, it has a jumbled herbal flavor, finish-ing with warmth and notes of dark chocolate and cof-fee. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $20

83 Vivác Winery 2008 V. Single Vineyard Syr­ah (New Mexico). This starts off feeling soft

and open, but the acids gain momentum on the midpal-ate, lending plenty of zip. A mild, oak-influenced plum flavor marks the quick-to-fade finish. —A.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

OHIO

86 Debonné 2009 Reserve Lot 907 Ries­ling (Grand River Valley). While the aromas

of white strawberry, passion fruit preserves and citrus are soft spoken, they increase in intensity on the pal-ate. Relatively low in alcohol, with sweetness and bright

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

acidity, this should pair well with exotic, slightly spicy fare, like curried chicken with mango chutney. —A.H. abv: 11% Price: $15

83 Debonné 2009 Cabernet Franc (Grand River Valley). Chewy tannins and tart acids

buttress the midpalate’s broad berry flavor. The fruit seems to thin out on the finish, concluding with more bone and muscle than succulent flesh. Pairing this with a rare burger would help tame the structural compo-nents. —A.H. abv: 12% Price: $15

TEXAS

86 Messina Hof 2009 Private Reserve Dou­ble Barrel Cedar Crest Vineyard Caber­

net Franc (Texas). A veneer of new wood overlays the aromas of smoke, spiced blueberry, blackberry and olive. Well-proportioned acids and tannins give shape to this medium- to full-bodied effort, which concludes with a seemingly long, clingy finish. —A.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $22

85 Messina Hof 2010 Private Reserve Dou­ble Barrel Cerro Santo Vineyard Primitivo

(Texas). Deep and dark smelling, this has aromas of Mission fig, black fruit compote and spiced pastry. It’s a heavyweight effort with a dense texture, but the acid-ity saves it from feeling ponderous. An overripe flavor of sun-dried fruit dominates the flavor profile, conclud-ing with a touch of Bourbon barrel on the medium-long finish. —A.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $22

82 Messina Hof 2009 Private Reserve Dou­ble Barrel Bell Brothers­Merrill’s Vine­

yard Zinfandel (Texas). Restrained on the nose, this is slow to reveal notes of spice cake, clove liqueur and waxy raisin. The tannins lend the palate grip, but it fin-ishes short on flavor, with the structural elements most prominent. —A.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $22

VIRGINIA

88 Lovingston 2010 Gilbert’s Vineyard Pino­tage (Monticello). For full review see page

11.abv: 14.5% Price: $25

87 Shenandoah VA 2011 Johannisberg Riesling (Shenandoah Valley). Scents of

lemongrass, white flower, bees wax and pear are perky and well etched. Between the wine’s keen acids and lemony flavor, this remains a bright, uplifting effort, with a clean, tangy finish. —A.H. abv: 11% Price: $15

86 Annefield Vineyards 2010 Viognier (Vir­ginia). Notes of beeswax, orange oil and mel-

on are accented with citrus pith and white flower sub-tleties. Medium to full bodied, this starts off lax, but a charge of acidity gives the midpalate a boost. Sip this alongside citrus-marinated grilled shrimp. —A.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $22

86 Boxwood 2010 Red (Virginia). Comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Ver-

dot, this bears aromas of clover honey, char, dark choc-olate and a late-to-develop savory meat tone. On the palate, there’s enough flesh to buffer its high amount of fine-grained, muscular tannins. A rose petal note un-furls across the midpalate, leading to a finish marked with enduring grip. —A.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

86 Boxwood 2010 Topiary (Virginia). A blend of 61% Cabernet Franc and 39% Merlot, this

has scents of black fruit and green bell pepper that are characteristic of many Bordeaux-style blends, with un-derpinnings of savory spice and char. The full-bodied palate has a soft, chocolaty core, boasting medium-grained tannins and easy acids that lend enough lift. —A.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

86 Lovingston 2009 Rotunda Red (Monticel­lo). Scents of charred sugar, blackberry liqueur,

hot stone and spiced mocha detail the nose, with a leath-er accent that develops late. Soft, malleable tannins de-fine the accessible palate, however, the tannins acquire more structure and texture on the finish. —A.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $15

86 Veramar 2010 Viognier (Virginia). Aromas of toasted macadamia, Fuji apple and apricot

preserves are bold and well delineated. This tastes off-dry, but its acids are lively enough to keep the midpal-ate from feeling sticky. Warm and sappy on the finish, it bears vivid, lingering notes of toasted nut and bruised apple. Try pairing this with roast chicken and a not-too-sweet apricot chutney. —A.H. abv: 12.4% Price: $24

85 Annefield Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Sau­vignon (Virginia). A dominant feral aroma of

sweaty saddle leather overlays the core of dark stone fruit. Medium to full bodied, this has appetizing acids that juice up the salient black-tea and black cherry fla-vors. Astringent and dry on the finish, this should pair well with juicy steaks and sautéed mushrooms. —A.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $26

85 Barrel Oak 2009 Tour’ga Franc Reserve (Virginia). A blend of 60% Touriga Nacio-

nal and 40% Cabernet Franc, this smells of peppered blackberries, compost, smoke and char. The palate is structured with sustaining acids and a medium load of chunky tannins. A dark berry flavor and a hint of dried flower add interest. —A.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $33

85 Veramar 2008 Estate Bottled Norton (Shenandoah Valley). Funky and intrigu-

ing on the nose, this proffers scents of narcissus and farmyard, with touches of char and dark fruit. Medium bodied, this has an open texture, with integrated acids and malleable tannins. Flavors of tart blackberry candy, leather and Dr. Pepper surface on the palate. —A.H. abv: 12.4% Price: $39

84 Bogati 2011 Viognier (Virginia). An easy ef-fort, this has aromas of pear, white peach and

white flower. The bright, perky acidity energizes the medium- to full-bodied palate, with a honeyed toasted-nut note marking the finish. —A.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $21

83 Three Fox 2010 La Boheme Viognier (Vir­ginia). Smelling grapey on the nose, this has

additional notes of white currant, toast and white stone fruit. It starts soft, with flavors that are rather low in concentration. The medium-bodied mouthfeel turns zesty as the wine advances across the palate, finishing with touches of honeyed toast and apple. —A.H. abv: 12% Price: $25

83 Boxwood 2010 Trellis (Virginia). Aromas of rubber, toasted herb and desiccated dark fruit

are quite mute and reticent. On the palate, the struc-tural elements are prominent, with juicy acids and as-tringent tannins framing the dark berry flavor. —A.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $18

82 Barrel Oak 2009 Reserve Viognier (Vir­ginia). While the nose seems promising with

its exotic-tinged aromas of banana, peach and papaya, the palate falls short. It tastes a bit disjointed, with an oily mouthfeel, exaggerated acidity and a feeble banana flavor. —A.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $27

OTHER AMERICAN WHITES

87 Truro 2009 Demi­Sec Vignoles (America). This has striking aromas of passion fruit, apri-

cot and pear drop, with a note of warm, spiced green apple adding dimension. While sweet in nature, this has electrifying acidity that keeps the palate clean, en-ergetic and far from clingy. The acidity remains racy on the finish, highlighting the pretty honeysuckle charac-ter. —A.H. abv: 11.5% Price: $14

86 Mount Pleasant Winery 2010 Estates Vil­lagio (America). On entrance, this has forth-

right flavors of grapefruit, basil and apricot that are highlighted by the well-managed acids. A blend of hy-brid grapes—Rayon d’Or, Vidal Blanc and Vignoles—this should pair well with grilled swordfish or seared sea scallops. —A.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $20

OTHER AMERICAN REDS

84 Mount Pleasant Winery NV Estates Mer­lot (America). Course, grainy tannins are the

defining textural attribute, lending a rustic quality to the full-bodied palate. Notes of mocha, cranberry sauce and black fruit compote are pleasant and easy, extend-ing onto the finish that’s marked by vice-grip tannins. This would be a fine accompaniment to burgers and ribs. —A.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

83 Adirondack Winery NV Barbera (Ameri­ca). Scents of old coffee, cherry and caramel

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follow through on the palate, with a soapy hint that adds a slightly bitter element This is a medium-bodied, no-frills wine that should pair just fine with a grilled pork chop. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $18

83 Mount Pleasant Winery NV Estates Cab­ernet Sauvignon (America). This has a pre-

vailing fortified-wine scent to its nose, with details of plum liqueur and mint-chocolate. It’s muscular and overtly firm on the palate; the fortified wine quality cre-ates a slightly discordant sensation. —A.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

83 Truro 2007 Estate Grown Cabernet Franc (Southeastern New England). The acid-

ity is the prominent attribute of this wine, jutting out with little flesh to buffer its cut. Light, dusty tannins add some traction to the palate, with a leafy herb note sur-facing on the short finish. —A.H. abv: 12% Price: $36

81 Les Bourgeois NV Jeunette Rouge (America). An acid-driven wine, this has a pal-

pable tartness, with feeble notes of raw wood, blueberry and smoke. Pairing this with a grilled pizza with a layer of tomato sauce could help tame the wild acids. —A.H. abv: 12% Price: $9

CANADA

91 Equifera 2009 Icewine Riesling (Niagara Peninsula). While Equifera, produced by In-

niskillin co-founder, Donald Ziraldo, may still be an un-familiar name, one sip of this Riesling ice wine is proof of its impeccable pedigree. Intensely aromatic with loads of fresh apple, honey and white blossom aromas, it balances luscious sweetness with bracing acidity and a long, undulating floral finish. The Wine Group. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $70/375 ml

91 Inniskillin 2008 Ice Wine Riesling (Ni­agara Peninsula). Gorgeously aromatic with

notes of freshly pressed apple, wildflower honey and tangerine peel, this is a richly textured, almost creamy, ice wine. Intense flavors of honey and fresh apple ripple on the palate, with striking lemon acidity that lends a squeaky clean finish. Constellation Brands, Inc. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $80/375 ml

90 Cave Spring 2009 Indian Summer Ries­ling (Niagara Peninsula). Just a touch of

dried herb adds a surprising element to the intense honey, white flower and sweet tangerine flavors on this beautiful late-harvest Riesling. Striking lemon-lime acidity and a shower of crushed stones on the finish add elegance and balance. MGZ Associates. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $30/375 ml

90 Inniskillin 2007 Icewine Gold Vidal Blanc (Niagara Peninsula). High-toned apple-ci-

der aromas on the nose belie the gorgeously fresh pal-ate. This is lip-smackingly good, with a concentrated fresh-fruit flavor that’s sweet and bright with notes of hibiscus nectar and honey. It lingers long and smooth on the finish. Constellation Brands, Inc. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $77/375 ml

ARGENTINA

CHARDONNAY

87 Zuccardi 2011 Q Chardonnay (Mendo­za). This is mild and lightly oaked on the front

end, with peach and apple notes. It feels narrow and fo-cused, with honeyed apple, pear and melon flavors that aren’t too sweet or candied. Light and simple feeling on the finish, with elegance. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

86 Bodega Catena Zapata 2011 High Moun­tain Vines Chardonnay (Mendoza). The

waxy, dusty aromas of apple are calm and regular. It feels a bit flat, with oaky flavors of apple, melon, vanil-la and resin. The finish feels resiny too, but overall it’s good in a regular, popular style. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 Siesta Wines 2011 Tahuan Chardonnay (Mendoza). The hazy aromas of honeyed

white fruits are a touch gaseous. It feels plump and nice, with soft, almost flat melon flavors. It tastes similar on the finish, showing little evolution from the palate. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $16

86 Viña Cobos 2011 Felino Chardonnay (Mendoza). Toasty, oaky and a bit lemony on

the nose, this has baked apple notes that are friendly. It feels round and honeyed, with toasty, candied flavors that veer toward pear, apple and honey. Resin and cin-namon flavors work the soft, sweet-tasting finish. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

85 Tilia 2011 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Dusty and warm up front, this has baked apple and

peachy aromas. It feels round with only mild acidity, while the flavors yield barrel resin, citrus and sweet melon. It’s not too evolved on the finish. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

91 Viña Cobos 2010 Bramare Cabernet Sau­vignon (Luján de Cuyo). This is tight and

sturdy as a rock up front, with licorice, hard spice, leath-er and black cherry aromas. It feels round, chewy, tough and healthy, with flavors of baked black fruit, chocolate, molasses and hickory. Roasted and oaky, but cool and collected. Drink now through 2016. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $40

90 Bodega Norton 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Norton Reserva is

one of Argentina’s best Cabernetss for the money. This vintage offers a mineral aroma along with rose petal, baked plum and spiced cherry scents. It feels deep, gen-erous and balanced, with cassis, blackberry, earth and molasses flavors. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

88 Zolo 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). This is a jammy, dense and pure

Cabernet, with meat and berry aromas that mix in touches of graphite and chocolate. It feels a little hard and acidic despite its size, while the flavor profile is of mossy berry fruit and chocolate. Tight and nervy, this offers lots of acidic push on the finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19

MALBEC

92 Bodega Catena Zapata 2009 Catena Alta Malbec (Mendoza). This is gorgeous on the

bouquet, with earth, flower blossom, licorice and san-dalwood aromas. It feels lush and layered, with ripe, happy flavors of sultry black fruit and cassis. Fruity, long and delicious on the finish, this is a very easy Malbec to dig into now and until 2015. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $55

91 Trivento 2009 Golden Reserve Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). The nose is deep and dense,

delivering pure blackberry and blueberry aromas along with toast and herb notes. It feels balanced and pure as a cloudless night, with controlled blackberry, spice and chocolate flavors. Strong on the finish, with bitter notes of chocolate and espresso, and narrow tannins. Banfi Vintners. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

90 Finca 8 2009 Reserva Malbec (Mendo­za). Dense black-fruit aromas have a coconut

edge, and the entire nose turns mossy and leathery with airing. It feels dense, chewy and a little soft, with an earthy, reedy flavor of black fruit that’s touched up with coffee. Plump, spicy and ever so slightly herbal on the finish. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $40

89 Bodega Carmine Granata 2009 Tradicio­nal Oak Cask Malbec (Luján de Cuyo).

This starts out with textbook aromas of red and black fruits that are pure and easy to get into. It shows kick on the palate, with oaky flavors of coffee and chocolate that accent ripe berry and mild herb notes. It’s toasty and spicy on the finish, with a gritty feel. Tarasi Winer-ies. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

89 Bodega Tacuil 2010 33 de Dávalos Mal­bec (Salta). Potent and herbal, this has aro-

mas of tomato, olive, mineral and tobacco. It feels tight, drying and lively, with herb-infused flavors of plum and berry along with spicy oak. Rich in feel, but it’s distinctly foresty and herbal tasting on the finish. This is 100% Malbec with an undeniable Salta imprint. Vine Connec-tions. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $70

88 Telteca 2009 Anta Reserve Malbec (Men­doza). Balsam wood, pencil eraser, coconut,

anise and blackberry aromas share the bouquet. It feels linear and a touch scratchy, with roasted berry and toasted flavors that steer toward bacon. It feels a little

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

gritty and short on the finish. Fleischer International Trading, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

84 Pulenta Estate 2011 Bodega La Flor Mal­bec (Mendoza). Violet in color, this has ample

berry and cassis notes on the bouquet. It feels edgy and grabby, with oaky, spicy plum and blackberry flavors. The fruit component fades fast on the finish, leaving a dry, peppery aftertaste. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

83 Rutini 2011 Trumpeter Malbec (Mendo­za). Stalky red-fruit aromas suggest rhubarb

and nettles. It feels fresh, lean and dry, with flavors of herbal berry, snappy red cherry and tomato. It turns more stalky and herbal on the finish. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

82 Verum 2011 Malbec (Alto Valle del Río Negro). The scratchy berry aromas are solid

upfront—good enough to urge a swig of this wine. What comes next is a soupy, herbal, tomato-influenced Mal-bec that finishes like gazpacho. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $17

81 Manos Negras 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). This is hard coated with a creamy plastic note

and a milk chocolate scent. Overall it smells heavily oaked and artificial. It feels resiny, with sticky tannins and thickness, tasting of hickory and carob. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

80 Black Box 2011 3 L Malbec (Mendoza). This smells like citrus and rhubarb more than

Malbec, with a tart, herbal palate that’s high in acid and short on enjoyability. Constellation Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $25/3 L

RED BLENDS

90 Lagarde 2010 Guarda (Luján de Cuyo). Aromas of balsam wood, dry spice, berries and

vanilla are attractive and inviting. It feels lush and deep, with good layering and robust flavors of berry fruit, spice, herb and tobacco. Flush and slightly herbal tast-ing on the back end, this is a complex, quality blend of Malbec, Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $29

88 Alamos 2010 Red Blend (Mendoza). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $13

88 Bodega Tacuil 2010 Red (Salta). A black-fruit aroma comes with accents of tobacco and

prune but also a strong, almost vegetal green angle. It feels nice and full, with green-leaning flavors of spiced berry and juniper. Tobacco, bitter lettuce and green bean notes all make appearances on the finish. This is a blend of 80% Malbec and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $100

88 Trivento 2010 Amado Sur Malbec­Bo­narda­Syrah (Mendoza). This is dusty and

smooth up front, with plenty of oak, balsamic, plum and berry aromas. Showing overall harmony, it feels sure and secure, with depth and solid flavors of toasty ber-ry and bitter chocolate. It tastes similarly on the finish, with a jammy feel. A blend of 80% Malbec with 10% Bonarda and 10% Syrah. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Amalaya 2010 Red (Calchaqui Valley). This smells of exotic blueberry and graham

cracker, and it feels wide and solid, with herbal, woodsy flavors of juniper and plum. Dry and healthy on the fin-ish, this made from 75% Malbec, with Cabernet Sauvi-gnon, Syrah and Tannat in the blend. Hess Collection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

SYRAH/SHIRAZ

87 Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Syrah (Mendo­za). Bright and bold to the eye, this has gener-

ous, powerful berry aromas that come with a note of spice. It feels stacked and only slightly tangy, with black fruit and some of Syrah’s more textbook flavors of leath-er and animal. It holds form on the finish. The Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

85 Callia 2011 Alta Shiraz (Tulum Valley). For full reveiw see page 13. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $9

84 Trivento 2011 Reserve Syrah (Mendoza). Asphalt and gaseous aromas take a while to set-

tle, but after they do, leather and scratchy blackberry scents surface. It feels big and brawny, with max extrac-tion. It tastes masculine but salty, with bitter chocolate and peppery accents. Bulky for $11 wine. Banfi Vint-ners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

82 Funky Llama 2011 Shiraz (Mendoza). Light and cheesy smelling, this has herbal red-

fruit aromas. It feels quick and hard across the palate, with strawberry, raspberry and herbal flavors. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

80 Canoas 2011 Estate Collection Syrah (San Juan). This is minty green up front, with

a dilute cherry aroma. It feels hollow with green flavors that override mild red-fruit notes. Herbal on the finish. HGC Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $10

SOUTH AFRICA

CHARDONNAY

89 Glen Carlou 2010 Chardonnay (Paarl). Here’s a ripe, lush Chardonnay that’s brimming

with succulent notes of grilled apple, peach, toasted bri-oche and baking spice. It boasts a full, creamy mouth-

feel, with a good acidic lift on the finish, alongside hints of peach pit and orange oil. Hess Collection. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $17

87 Thelema 2010 Sutherland Chardonnay (Elgin). Notes of red apple, pear and a touch of

sweet spice lead on the nose. It’s balanced and refresh-ing, with apple skin and orange flavors on the palate that linger well onto the finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

87 Winery of Good Hope 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). There’s great

vibrancy on the nose of this wine, with bright scents of ripe nectarine and pineapple core, framed by a floral accent reminiscent of rose water. The mouthfeel is light and accessible, with yellow apple and lime rind flavors. Drink now. World Premiere Wines LLC. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Edgebaston 2010 Chardonnay (Stellen­bosch). Hints of yellow flowers mingle with

flavors of fresh apple slices and Anjou pear cores. The palate is rich and round, with ripe fruit flavors and a touch of orange peel that stays through the medium-length finish. Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 La Capra Presented by Fairview 2010 Chardonnay (Western Cape). Fruit-for-

ward and easy pleasing, this offers bright aromas and flavors of fresh peach slices, melons and yellow apples. A soft baking-spice accent and suggestions of walnut shells add interest to the medium-length finish. Vine-yard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $11

SAUVIGNON BLANC

87 Buitenverwachting 2011 Beyond Sauvi­gnon Blanc (Coastal Region). Ripe notes of

pineapple and firm guava are framed by bracing acidity that lends a slight prickle to the palate. Flavors of sweet grass and Key lime develop and carry onto the clean fin-ish. Drink now. Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

86 Indaba 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Western Cape). Green plum and tart gooseberry aro-

mas and flavors lead the way of this lively selection. Linear and direct on the palate, it has refreshing notes of lime rind, sweet grass and a touch of white flower. Clean and balanced; drink now. Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $10

85 MAN Vintners 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Western Cape). This is forward and fresh,

with notes of green apple, gooseberry and lemon-lime on the nose and palate. Zippy and mouthwatering, it has faint suggestions of lime zest and fresh-cut grass on the back. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $11

84 Durbanville Hills 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Durbanville). Light and easy, this has direct

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aromas and flavors of green plum, lime, just-dried grass and underripe mango. Medium acidity keeps the fin-ish clean and bright. Drink now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

WHITE BLENDS

90 Bradgate 2011 Sauvignon Blanc­Chen­in Blanc (Stellenbosch). This is open and

likeable, with forward aromas of fresh red apple slices, white pineapple cores and green-melon rind. It’s brisk and clean on the palate, with good cut and freshness to the fruity core. A touch of herbaceousness adds charac-ter to the lingering finish. World Premiere Wines LLC. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Cape View 2010 Combination Sauvignon Blanc­Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). Rich

fruit aromas of yellow apple flesh, mealy pear and ba-nana lead the bouquet, with a hint of grapefruit pith in the background. The palate is tangier and more lift-ed than the nose suggests, with bright flavors of green plum and citrus juice. Knauth & Visser LLC. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $12

87 The Ruins 2011 Made With Organic Grapes Chardonnay­Viognier (Eilandia).

Apple and citrus aromas mingle on the nose, with hints of steely minerality and just-dried grass. The medium-weight mouthfeel boasts flavors of underripe stone fruit and lemon zest, shifting to riper orange and pear flavors as the finish evolves. Indigo Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

86 Haute Cabrière 2010 Chardonnay­Pinot Noir (Franschhoek). Made from 70% Char-

donnay and 30% Pinot Noir, this is clean yet nuanced, with subtle suggestions of strawberry hull and freshly picked herbs to the white peach and Key lime core. Me-dium weight, with a mouthwatering finish; drink now. Knauth & Visser LLC. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

86 Stellenbosch Hills 2011 Polkadraai Chenin Blanc­Sauvignon Blanc (Pol­

kadraai Hills). This is quite grassy and herbaceous, with an almost perfumy quality to the bouquet. Fruity flavors of pineapple, mango and tangerine help to flesh out the medium-weight palate, ending clean and lifted. Drink now. Votto Vines Importing. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

SPARKLING WINES

87 Graham Beck 2007 Brut Blanc de Blancs (Robertson). Delicate accents of green apple

flesh, juicy orange and peach pit fill out the nose and mouth of this attractive sparkler. The slightly aggressive carbonation keeps the palate fresh and mouthwatering, and a hint of baking spice graces the brisk finish. Mari-time Wine Trading Collective. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

87 Graham Beck 2003 Cuvée Clive (Western Cape). A distinct note of honeycomb marries

harmoniously with the pear and hard nectarine aromas. A nice creaminess fills the mouth, with green apple and citrus flavors, which finish on an appropriately toasty yet mouthwatering note. This already shows nice develop-ment; drink now. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —L.B. abv: 11% Price: $55

86 Graham Beck 2005 Brut Zero (Western Cape). Green plum, apple and lemon-rind aro-

mas and flavors are at the center of this dry sparkler. It’s clean and refreshing, with medium carbonation and a brisk, mouthwatering finish. Drink now. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —L.B. abv: 12% Price: $25

86 Orange River Wine Cellars NV Star Tree Brut Sparkling Wine (Northern Cape). For

full review see page 13. Best Buy. abv: 11% Price: $11

86 Solms­Delta NV Solms Astor Cape Jazz Shiraz (Coastal Region). Vibrantly efferves-

cent and bursting with ripe, juicy strawberry and cherry fruit notes, this has a fine-sandpaper-like texture. It’s an interesting selection that would pair well with barbe-cue or pulled-pork dishes. Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B. abv: 9.5% Price: $20

86 Weltevrede 2008 Philip Jonker The Ring Blanc de Blancs Brut (Robertson). Toast

and fresh hay aromas immediately waft from the glass, with supporting notes of red apple and spiced orange peel. Round and full in the mouth, it has good mousse and a soft honeyed accent that carries through onto the finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 11.5% Price: $28

84 Orange River Wine Cellars NV Star Tree Cuvée Brulsand Doux Sparkling Wine

(Northern Cape). This sparkler is sweet but attractive and balanced, with a lovely lychee, peach and rose water aromatic profile. The carbonation is not overly assertive, and the acidity is brisk enough to keep the finish from coming off as cloyingly sweet. DRG Imports. —L.B. abv: 10% Price: $11

ROSÉS

86 Kanonkop 2011 Kadette Dry Pinotage Rosé (Stellenbosch). Delicate aromas of

white cherry and strawberry lead the nose and car-ry through onto the palate with a bit more intensity. There’s texture to the mouthfeel, with flavors of red cherry and plum skin that stay through the medium-length finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: NA Price: $15

86 Slowine 2011 Rosé (Western Cape). Dainty floral aromas accent the soft strawberry

and red-cherry fruit core. Bright and lifted on the pal-ate, it has a juicy finish of mixed berry flavors. World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Boekenhoutskloof 2011 The Wolftrap Rosé (Western Cape). Aromatic and lively,

this fresh rosé offers bright notes of juicy peach, red cherry and wild strawberry. The medium-weight pal-ate is balanced by refreshing, orange-infused acidity that results in a clean, mouthwatering finish. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

84 Saronsberg 2010 Provenance Shiraz Rosé (Tulbagh). This is so intense and fruit

forward, the aromas are almost like those of Fruit Roll-Ups. Notes of strawberry, raspberry and peach abound on the nose and palate, with good acidic lift that just bal-ances all of that fruity sweetness. Wine Sources. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

86 Excelsior 2010 Hands Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Robertson). This value selection is a

no-brainer, with medium tannins providing good struc-ture to the ripe palate. Boysenberry and black currant flavors mingle with spicy accents of hoisin sauce, lico-rice and coffee bean. Drink now. Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: NA Price: $9

86 Helderberg Wijnmakerij 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). A solid and

well-made selection, this boasts plenty of blackberry and cassis aromas and flavors, laced with hints of lico-rice root and warm spice. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

86 Porcupine Ridge 2010 Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Coastal Region). Light notes of forest

berry, cassis and licorice root unfold on the nose and on the medium-weight palate. This might not be the most complex wine, but it’s clean, balanced and approachable now. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

85 Excelsior 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Robertson). Consistently a good value se-

lection, this showcases ripe black-fruit characteristics of cherry, berry and plum, alongside nuances of savory herbs and fresh menthol leaves. Medium weight, with a mouth-filling texture and a slightly chewy finish. Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $10

85 MAN Vintners 2010 Cabernet Sauvi­gnon (Coastal Region). A green streak runs

through this wine, adding an herbal character to the black cherry and plum aromas and flavors. Low tannins and medium acidity produce an overall easy profile and light mouthfeel. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $11

85 Tormentoso 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paarl). This smells dark and concentrated, yet

the blackberry and cassis core is lifted by a powdery, purple-potpourri accent. There’s a strong woody pres-ence on the palate, with baking spice and vanilla bean flavors that linger. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $13

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

PINOTAGE

86 Ken Forrester 2011 Petit Pinotage (West­ern Cape). This is a jammy and fruit-forward

selection, with lively notes of raspberry, strawberry and red plum, accented by nuances of potpourri and gamy meat. Medium tannins and skin-driven fruit flavors pro-vide the palate nice structure and grip. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $12

85 False Bay 2011 Pinotage (Western Cape). The bouquet bursts with ripe black-

fruit aromas, alongside hints of crushed violet petals. The mouthfeel is round and filling, with a chocolaty fla-vor that stays through to the finish. USA Wine West. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Mwitu 2011 Wild Wine Pinotage (West­ern Cape). Accents of crushed violets add in-

terest to the wild strawberry, blackberry and plum fruit core. Mouthwatering and clean, this has dusty tannins and medium acidity that provide a nice structure. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $10

85 Winery of Good Hope 2011 Bush Vine Pi­notage (Stellenbosch). Here’s a bright Pino-

tage that offers aromas of blackberry and plum, as well as faint hints of dried herb and cured meat. The pal-ate is light and easy drinking, with approachable tan-nins and a short but clean finish. World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

84 Ernst Gouws & Co. 2010 Pinotage (Coast­al Region). Scents of cured meat and campfire

take center stage on the nose, with secondary support from black plum and boysenberry aromas. A strong bil-tong and cardamom-spice flavor carries through onto the palate, and remains through the finish. Bronco Wine Company. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

84 MAN Vintners 2010 Pinotage (Coastal Region). There’s an attractive wild and bram-

bly edge to this wine, with notes of tree bark and game that spice up the berry and plum fruit core. The struc-ture is approachable now, with light tannins and a short finish. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $11

84 Wamakersvallei 2010 Bain’s Way Pino­tage (Paarl). Medium-intense spice and game

aromas inflect the ripe forest-berry and cherry fruits. This is accessible and easy, with low tannins and a clean finish. Wine Sources. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $11

SHIRAZ/SYRAH

87 Guardian Peak 2010 Shiraz (Western Cape). Dark and lush, this has notes of for-

est berry and plum flesh. The mouthfeel is round and slightly creamy, with dense blackberry and raspberry flavors, and a finish that’s dusted with pepper and co-

coa powder accents. Drink now. Terlato Wines Inter-national. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

87 Porcupine Ridge 2010 Syrah (Coastal Region). Notes of forest floor and menthol

leaves add depth to the jammy core of boysenberry and blueberry fruits. It’s solidly structured, with approach-able tannins and medium acidity. A touch of cocoa stays through the medium-length finish. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

85 Excelsior 2010 Syrah (Robertson). There’s an herbal streak to the berry center of this wine,

with just the faintest suggestion of mocha that unfolds on the finish. The texture is full and slightly creamy, with dusty tannins providing enough structure and bal-ance. Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $10

85 Neil Ellis 2010 Sincerely Shiraz (Western Cape). Scents of cherry and raspberry sauce

unfold on the bouquet, while the approachable palate offers similarly intense, fleshy fruit flavors that are laced with hints of pepper and soft mint. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $14

84 Wamakersvallei 2010 Bain’s Way Shiraz (Wellington). Bright and easy, this has direct

aromas and flavors of red cherry and raspberry. It’s light in weight, with low tannins and a short but clean finish. Drink now. Wine Sources. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $11

RED BLENDS

89 Thelema 2009 Mountain Red (Western Cape). This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,

Shiraz, Petit Verdot and Grenache, with a spine that’s all ripe dark berries and cherries. But there’s enough savory herbs and peppery spices to keep it complex and layered. The texture is slightly creamy, with a lush, fruity palate, and a tobacco- and toasted-spice-infused finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

88 Edgebaston 2010 The Berry Box (Stel­lenbosch). Light nuances of baking spice and

forest floor grace the notes of lively black cherry and raspberry. The velvety mouthfeel is juicy and fruit for-ward, with a jammy richness that transitions onto the long finish, alongside a touch of black pepper. Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

88 Neil Ellis 2010 The Left Bank (Western Cape). For full review see page 11.

abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Bradgate 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon­Mer­lot­Shiraz (Stellenbosch). Glimmers of wet

rocks and pencil shavings inflect the blackberry and cas-sis elements of this wine, adding depth and interest. Soft herbal characteristics and green tannins result in an

overall austere texture, finishing tight and grippy. World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Kanonkop 2010 Kadette (Stellenbosch). This Pinotage-dominant blend is a bit closed to

begin, but opens up after some time in the glass to re-veal enticing notes of dark berries, plums and whole va-nilla beans. Medium tannins and jammy, crushed-berry fruit flavors flesh out the palate, ending on a textured plum-skin flavor. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $15

WHITE BURGUNDY

CHABLIS

95 Domaine Jean­Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). This is taut

and mineral, with hidden power. It’s very closed at this stage. It’s a wine with acidity and notes of green fruits and crisp apples, with just a touch of wood. This will age for many years. European Cellars. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $70

94 Domaine Jean­Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 Grenouilles Grand Cru (Chablis). Firm

and closed, this shows both richness and minerality. It has hidden power, concentration and a steely edge. It’s crisp and densely packed with minerality and ripeness. For aging over at least seven years. European Cellars. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $70

94 Domaine Jean­Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 Valmur Grand Cru (Chablis). This is beauti-

fully rich and powerful, with tropical fruit flavors and a hint of wood. It has enormous concentration of sweet, ripe white and yellow fruits, balanced by the sharp cut of acidity. European Cellars. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $60

94 Domaine Laroche 2010 Les Blanchots Grand Cru (Chablis). Structured and miner-

ally, this has citrus fruits that sit prominently over the tight acidity. A vanilla note is there to round the wine out. The crisp fruits and steely acids are intense and im-pressively balanced. Age for at least 5 years. Screwcap. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $86

94 La Chablisienne 2009 Château Gre­nouilles Grand Cru (Chablis). The vines

here have produced a 2009 that is hugely ripe, rounded and concentrated. With its sweet wood and vanilla fla-vors, with balancing apple and apricot fruits, it’s a wine for pleasure soon, but it will also age. Grape Expecta-tions (CA). —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $90

94 Pascal Bouchard 2010 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). The epitome of Grand Cru

Chablis, this is mineral and fruit driven—impressive both from its richness and its tense structure. The pow-er comes from the depth of flavor that brings the texture

WineMag.com | 43

right through the wine. Age for 5–7 years. Wine Sym-phony, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

93 Domaine Jean­Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). A

wonderfully balanced wine, this shows a vanilla note that harmonizes with its ripe tropical fruit and a distinct touch of minerality. Wood aging shows through on the finish. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Domaine Jean­Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 Montée de Tonnerre Premier Cru (Cha­

blis). With wood-based aromas, this is currently a closed, taut wine. It has green fruits and minerality; it’s nervy and under tension. The acidity is crisp while very light in character. This is for aging. European Cellars. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $40

93 Domaine Jean­Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 Montmains Premier Cru (Chablis). This

shows a hint of mineral along with tropical fruit. This is a seductive combination that shows richness and a taut, nervy character. Age for at least six years. European Cellars. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $36

93 Domaine Laroche 2010 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). Concentrated and structured,

this layers wood and vanilla flavors with a taut, miner-al character. With its richness and well-balanced citrus, tropical fruit flaavors, it will certainly age for at least four years. Screwcap. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $115

93 Domaine Laroche 2010 Les Fourchau­mes Vieilles Vignes Premier Cru (Cha­

blis). This has extra richness that lends the wine con-centration and ripeness. An intense structure of min-erality is balanced by yellow fruit, bearing a round and full texture, with great depth of flavor. Age for at least five years. Screwcap. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 La Chablisienne 2009 Les Preuses Grand Cru (Chablis). From this rich vintage comes

this delicious, open wine. Flavors of tropical fruit and peach create an opulent and generous feel, with notes from having aged in wood offering complexity. It’s con-centrated and ageworthy, worth keeping for 4–5 years and more. Grape Expectations (CA). Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $70

93 Pascal Bouchard 2010 Blanchot Grand Cru (Chablis). Using grapes sourced from

a steep slope in the Blanchot Vineyard, this powerful wine shows richness as well as concentrated fruitiness. Its smooth, mineral texture is punctuated acidity and flavors of apricot and melon fruit. Age for 4–5 years. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

93 Pascal Bouchard 2009 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). Using grapes sourced from

50-year-old vines, this is a powerful expression of rich Chardonnay. It has great depth of flavor, with concen-trated, intense and ripe yellow and white fruits, spiced from having aged in the wood. Allow to age for over five years. Wine Symphony, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

92 Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). This is rich and ripe,

with just a touch of wood influence. It has a tropical fruit and lime flavor, with lemon zest acidity. It is full, very structured and mineral, adding the complexity of ripe fruit. Age for 3–4 years. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $81

92 Château de Maligny 2010 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). Still very firm and closed, this

is textured and rich, with intense mineral and wood fla-vors that balance the steeliness. It’s full bodied, taut and nervy, with a concentrated core. Age for at least four years. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $70

92 Domaine Jean­Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 Mont­de­Milieu Premier Cru (Chablis).

Floral, fragrant and fruity, this has a lively character, with notes of apples and pears, and a great sweep of acidity. It shows freshness, crispness and richness at the same time. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Domaine Laroche 2010 Les Vaillons Vie­illes Vignes Premier Cru (Chablis). Taut,

and closed, this is very structured. The green fruits, mineral structure and flinty character offer a severe, complex wine. Layered with a caramel note, this is set to age over many years. Screwcap. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Pascal Bouchard 2010 Vaudésir Grand Cru (Chablis). Honey and wood aromas lead

to a rich, generally rounded wine. Having aged in wood, the white fruits are full, soft and ripe. It’s not all imme-diate pleasure; the wine has a more complex undertow of structure, sweet malolactic character and complex acidity on the finish. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

92 Pascal Bouchard 2009 Blanchot Grand Cru (Chablis). Bouchard owns 0.54 acres of

this grand cru vineyard. Rounded, ripe and soft, this has wood flavors that are an integral part of this rich, yellow-fruited wine. With spice and caramel notes to go with the fruit, it is already delicious, although it will age over 3–4 years. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

92 Pascal Bouchard 2009 Vaudésir Grand Cru (Chablis). Big and rounded, this tastes

rich and packed with ripe fruit. It as weight and a yellow fruit flavor, with notes of red apple and canteloupe. It is soft, delicious and almost ready to drink. Wine Sym-phony, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

92 Pascal Bouchard 2008 Blanchot Grand Cru (Chablis). This has a nutty, almond char-

acter that is integrating with the crisp texture. Taut and generous, this has richness, with a wood and citrus char-acter. Age for another year. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

92 Romain Bouchard 2010 Vau de Vey Pre­mier Cru (Chablis). Steely, minerally and

very textured, this has concentratio and taut layer of acidity to go with the lime fruit. Powered by its struc-ture, it will age for 3–4 years. Williams Corner Wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

91 Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Montmains Premier Cru (Chablis). Crisp and fruity, but

also with some weight, this dense, textured wine has a very minerally character, with a straight line of tight acidity. This is complex and tense while also refreshing. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $55

91 Château de Maligny 2010 Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). Round and rich, this

has streaks of lemon and orange zest that cut through the vanilla and creamed apple texture. A note of spice makes the wine complex and rich. This is worth aging for several years. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

91 Château de Maligny 2010 L’Homme Mort Premier Cru (Chablis). “L’Homme Mort,”

which is French for “the dead man,” is a small section of the Fourchaume Premier Cru, and it is a signature wine of Jean Durup’s Château de Maligny. It’s opulent, ripe and rounded, with a full, fruity character and toast flavor. On the finish, there is an edge of grapefruit acid-ity. Age for 3–4 years. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

91 Domaine Jean­Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 Vaillons Premier Cru (Chablis). This has

a warm, rounded character, with pressing minerality. Notes of apple, pear and a touch of vanilla all add rich-ness and an open character. It has warm, rich fruit on the finish. European Cellars. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $30

91 Domaine Laroche 2010 Les Vaudevey Premier Cru (Chablis). Full and rounded,

this has ripe apple and peach fruits that are contrast-ed with the taut, minerally line of citrusy acidity. It has weight and structure from the flavors of apple skin and orange zest. It needs to age at least four years. Screw-cap. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Domaine Vrignaud 2010 Vieilles Vignes Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). Made

from grapes sourced from vines that were planted in 1955, this is ripe and rich. The fruit is still reticent, but it will develop into a concentrated, full-bodied wine. Its density is balanced by a firm, minerally structure. Age

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

this for 2–3 years. Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Se-lection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $56

91 La Chablisienne 2010 Fourchaume Pre­mier Cru (Chablis). This exudes notes of ripe

yellow fruits while keeping an edge of structure. It’s fra-grant, with a fine dense texture that brings out acidity and a caramel flavor. It has aging potential, so keep it for over three years. Ruby Wines Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35

91 Pascal Bouchard 2010 Les Vieilles Vi­gnes Montmains Premier Cru (Chablis).

With that extra concentration that comes from low-yielding old vines, this has great depth of flavor. It has an apple flavor and crisp, citrusy acidity as well as a more toasty character. Complex and certainly ageworthy, this should keep for at least five years. Wine Symphony, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Bernard Defaix 2010 Vieilles Vignes (Chablis). A fragrant apple-skin aroma sets

the scene for this wine that is warm and ripe. A touch of nutmeg adds an extra dimension to its yellow fruits. It’s rich while still remaining true to its minerally, terroir-based origins. Age for two years. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $22

90 Château de Maligny 2010 Vau de Vey Premier Cru (Chablis). This is a tightly tex-

tured wine that has plenty of green stone fruit as well as a bitter almond edge. It is taut, and the fruit has not completely surfaced yet. Age for three years. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $90

90 Damien et Romain Bouchard 2010 Vail­lon Premier Cru (Chablis). With the typical

intense acidity of 2010, this is a taut, fruit- and miner-al-driven Chablis. Its fruitiness is balanced by judicious toast and vanilla flavors. Age for 2–3 years. Williams Corner Wine. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Domaine du Colombier 2010 Chablis. This is rich and rounded, with ripe apple and

peach flavors. It has a good depth of flavor that comes from the complex play between toast and sweet fruit notes. It has weight, and it can age over the next two years. Le Serbet. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Drouhin­Vaudon Premier Cru (Chablis). For full review see

page 10. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $37

90 La Chablisienne 2010 Côte de Léchet Premier Cru (Chablis). The small Côte

de Léchet Premier Cru offers a steely vision of Cha-blis—crisp and driven by apple and grapefruit flavors. It is bright and taut; like any wine from this vineyard,

it needs to age for at least three years. Vermont Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35

90 La Chablisienne 2010 Monte de Milieu Premier Cru (Chablis). Finely structured

and aromatic, this is initially dense before opening up with ripe yellow fruit, becoming balanced by orange- and tangerine-like acidity. It has a young, zesty texture that pairs with the rich concentration, promising to age over 3–4 years. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35

90 Pascal Bouchard 2010 Beauroy Premier Cru (Chablis). Smooth and rounded, this ex-

hibits the opulent side of Chablis while retaining an el-egant structure. It has flavors of yellow and white fruits that combine with a nutty character, a mineral texture and a refreshing, crisp finish. Age for 3–4 years. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Pascal Bouchard 2010 Fourchaume Pre­mier Cru Vieilles Vignes (Chablis). Big,

and powerful, this has generous flavors of yellow fruit, pear and integrated spice. It has weight to go with its more fruity character. With wood influence, refreshing acidity and a suggestion of tannin, it will age over the next 2–3 years. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

90 Pierre André 2010 Chablis. Smooth and rich, this is full of ripe apricot and peach fla-

vors that warmly embrace the palate. A vanilla flavor adds softness. On the finish, juicy acidity cuts in to give a crisper feel. Kinson The Future of Wine. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.8% Price: $NA

89 Domaine Pommier 2010 Chablis. Ripely rich, this is full of soft fruit, with a dominant

note of apricot. It has just a touch of spice to add pi-quancy, while the smooth texture is given a tight edge by a lemon juice flavor. An impressive wine that will age over the next 2–3 years. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Domaine Vrignaud 2010 Les Champré­aux (Chablis). A rich, yet finely structured

wine, this is full of acidity and bright green and yel-low fruits. It’s delicious, mouth-filling and refreshing, touched by notes of wood and citrus, with a smooth, toasty finish. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $34

89 Francine et Olivier Savary 2010 Chablis. This is a rich mouthful of a wine, with ripe notes

of red apple and green plum. Behind the fruit, there is a soft vanilla edge that adds depth of flavor. It’s concen-trated and ready to age for 2–3 years. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 La Chablisienne 2010 Les Vénérables (Chablis). While the wine seems at first rich,

it then shows a tautly acidic character that gives a re-freshing character to the roundness. That steely acidity

is what defines the tight, crisp finish. Blasons de Bour-gogne Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 La Chablisienne 2009 Les Vénérables Vieilles Vignes (Chablis). This is dense and

ripe—more concentrated than the standard Chablis cu-vée from La Chablisienne. Yellow fruits mingle with apple crispness, creating a balanced wine that’s com-plex and worth aging for another year. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Chablis. This is a very minerally wine with a fine, steely, taut

character. It offers notes of fresh-cut apple and citrus juice, with a lively, bright finish. Terlato Wines Interna-tional. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $27

88 Château de Maligny 2010 Vieilles Vignes (Chablis). Attractive and dense, this has rich

apricot and green plum fruits, with a full texture that lends a mineral edge. With its concentration, it should age for at least a year. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

88 Damien et Romain Bouchard 2010 Broc de Biques (Chablis). Round and fruity, this

is a crisp and pure wine. It has a straight line of acid-ity that cuts through the green apple and citrus fruits. The zesty texture dances on the palate. Williams Corner Wine. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Domaine Charly Nicolle 2010 Cuvée An­cestrum (Chablis). Soft and rich, this is laden

with ripe tropical fruits. The wine has a tangy, orange-zest texture, bringing brightness to this concentrated, generous wine. On the finish, there is a mineral edge. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Domaine Pommier 2010 Croix au Moines (Chablis). Crisp and minerally, this has an ap-

ple and grapefruit feel. It is fresh and very fruity; the upfront acidity lends an intensely refreshing character. This is ready to drink. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Fourrey et Fils 2011 Chablis. This is very textured, with lemon zest and grapefruit acidity.

It shows refreshing acidity, with a minerally, tangy and tight feel. With all this tautness, the wine needs to age for another 2–3 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

88 Fourrey et Fils 2010 Chablis. Bright and fruity, this has refreshing acidity. It has a lively

apple flavor that gives a delicate fragrance and juiciness. With its taut, mineral texture, this is classic, unoaked Chablis. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $25

88 J. Moreau et Fils 2010 Chablis. Ripe, smooth and creamy, this has just a touch of

wood to give extra roundness to the ripe yellow and cit-

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rus fruits. Ready to drink wine. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20

88 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Drouhin­Vaudon Réserve de Vaudon (Chablis). This is very

lemony, with a flint note and fine acidity that the wine a crisp edge. It’s lively and bright, with a rounded char-acter. The finish has a lightly salty taste. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23

88 La Chablisienne 2010 La Sereine (Cha­blis). Juicy and fruity, this has apple and lemon

flavors that combine with a steely edge. It’s refreshing and crisp, with a bright, lively character, and a tang on the finish. Blasons de Bourgogne Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

88 La Chablisienne 2009 La Sereine (Cha­blis). Soft and rounded, this has apple and

peach fruits, with a lemon zest texture. The acidity is a refreshing counterweight to the smooth character. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

88 Lupé­Cholet 2010 Cuvée Château de Viviers (Chablis). Soft and warm, this already

a pleasure to drink. It has ripe apple fruit and balanced acidity, with a fragrant orange-peel edge and lemon-like acidity on the finish. This is delicious as an apèritif and with food. Europvin. —R.V. abv: 12.4% Price: $20

88 Nathalie et Gilles Fèvre 2010 Chablis. This is rich and rounded, touched by a note of

vanilla that softens the natural texture and acidity. It’s ripe yet still with refreshing, with juicy acidity on the finish. Age this for a year for even better drinkability. Jeff Wellburn Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

88 Pascal Bouchard 2010 Montmains Pre­mier Cru (Chablis). Broad and generous, this

has ample white fruits and attractive, balancing acids. It already has richness and a pure fruit character, with a firm, pear-skin-like structure and acidity on the fin-ish. Age the for 3–4 years. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

87 Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine Long­De­paquit (Chablis). Rich, deliciously fruity and

ripe, this combines warmth with a more mineral under-tow that cuts through the palate, creating a wine that is refreshing and mouth-filling. It would be worth aging for two years or more. European Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

87 Bernard Defaix 2010 Chablis. Savory, juicy, refreshing and textured, this has a crisp green-

fruit feel, and is full of bright fruit flavors. The finish continues to express the lively, tight character of the wine. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

87 Château de Maligny 2010 Le Carré de César (Chablis). Good concentration gives

this wine a density to go with its fruitiness. It has a

strong streak of acidity that adds a crisp feel to the apple and apricot fruits. It should really age for another year. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

87 Corinne et Pierre Grossot 2010 Chablis. This is rich with flavors of yellow fruit and ripe

pear. It has a good texture, with crisp, citrusy acidity that adds a lively edge to this ripe wine. While it’s already drinkable, give this another six months of aging. World Wine Source. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

87 Domaine Jean­Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 Chablis. This shows good crispness, with an

apple flavor and zesty acidity. The fruitiness is balanced by a mineral edge and a touch of caramel. European Cellars. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $24

87 Domaine L. Chatelain 2010 Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). This demonstrates a

fine balance between the crisp white and peach fruits and the nervy texture that keeps this feeling taut and sharp. Beneath the fruity surface there is structure and a mineral character. Age for another 2–3 years. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $34

87 La Chablisienne 2010 La Pierrelée (Cha­blis). This is initially round and ripe, with a hint

of vanilla, before showing a more structured, steely side. It shows fine balance between its intense texture and fruitiness, promising 2–3 years of aging. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

87 Romain Bouchard 2010 Le Grand Bois (Chablis). Smooth, round and soft, this has

an open character, with intense, ripe yellow fruit that is lifted by pineapple- and lime-like acidity. Give it an-other year for the fruit to fully open. Williams Corner Wine. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

87 William Fèvre 2010 Chablis. Rich and soft, this is full of pear and quince flavors that pack

a punch of acidity. The fruitiness is offset by a yeasty character that adds notes of almond and spice. Henriot Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $29

86 Château de Maligny 2010 Chablis. Soft and rounded, this is touched by a note of va-

nilla that adds extra openness. With its apple and pear flavors, this is an attractive, fruity wine; it’s very forward, but it shows a note of Chablis steel in the background. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

86 Domaine Christophe Camu 2010 Char­donnay (Chablis). A caramel note combines

with soft yellow-fruit and spice flavors. It’s rich and rounded, with hints of toast and orange jelly. Planet Wine. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Domaine du Chardonnay 2010 Chablis. This shows more texture than fruit, but it has

weight and richness that will come forward in the next two years. Its clean apple fruit is likely to be the domi-nant factor. Massanois Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Domaine Jean­Claude Courtault 2010 Chablis. Initially, this tastes of only crisp acid-

ity, but the fruitier flavors of lemon and red apple come through slowly, giving weight to this lively, bright wine. The minerally, edgy texture is prominent on the finish. North Berkeley Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Domaine Laroche 2011 Saint­Martin (Chablis). This is crisp and attractively citrusy,

with a touch of caramel. It’s bright and fruity, with ap-ple and lemon flavors that are well integrated with the piercingly refreshing acidity. Screwcap. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 L. Tramier et Fils 2011 Chablis. This is fruity, with a hint of the vintage’s crisp mineral-

ity. It has citrus and apple flavors, with a touch of toast. Ready to drink in a year. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $28

86 Louis Latour 2010 Chablis. Light and fruity, this has a yeasty edge along with acidity. On the

palate, there are lots of green fruits, offering a dancing, lively character. At the end, there is a touch of vanilla. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $30

86 Pascal Bouchard 2011 Le Classique (Chablis). This is an attractive light and fruity

wine. It has fresh fruit flavors, with notes of crisp citrus and green apple. A touch of vanilla and a smooth tex-ture surface as it opens up. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 William Fèvre 2010 Champs Royaux (Chablis). Balanced and brightly fruity, this is

laden with acidity and a ripe apple flavor. With its touch of vanilla, this is full and crisply delicious. Ready to drink now. Henriot Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $23

85 Domaine Gérard Duplessis 2010 Chablis. This is light and crisp, with its acidity dominant.

It’s packed with lime and grapefruit flavors that lend a taut, nervy texture. Not for aging, this is refreshing now. Hand Picked Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

85 Domaine L. Chatelain 2010 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). This is light and fruity,

but it could use some more concentration. It has an at-tractive apple flavor and a touch of citrus. For a grand cru, it is surprisingly ready to drink. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

85 Louis Jadot 2010 Chablis. Very minerally in character, this is taut and edgy, laced with acid-

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

ity, citrus fruit and a tangy character. It’s bright, crisp and so fresh. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

85 Pascal Bouchard 2010 Les Vieilles Vi­gnes (Chablis). Intense acidity precedes the

ripe yellow fruits of this bright wine. It has a rich tex-ture that’s very minerally and steely, pairing with a vanil-la note from its wood aging. It’s a wine to be consumed young, over the next 2–3 years. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 Château de Béru 2010 Chablis. This is ripely tropical, with mango and spice notes that

are edged with a more yeasty character, giving an unbal-anced quality to this otherwise opulent wine. Acid Inc Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 Domaine George 2010 Vieilles Vignes (Chablis). Soft and open, this has ripe fruits

that are lightly textured and gently attractive. The acid-ity that shows on the finish gives the wine definition, but its softness is likely to be the dominant character. Good Company Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

83 Domaine L. Chatelain 2011 Chablis. A dirty nose spoils this otherwise attractive, easy,

crisp Chablis. The palate has some notes of yeast and bright white fruit, with a citrusy finish. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $21

83 Domaine Verret et Fils 2010 Chablis. This is a combination of tropical fruits and tight acid-

ity, making for an unbalanced wine that seems not to know its way. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $23

82 Domaine Faiveley 2010 Chablis. This is a yeasty wine that shows a bitter almond charac-

ter. It has an unattractive hard edge. Frederick Wild-man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $28

PETIT CHABLIS

86 Domaine Jean­Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 Petit Chablis. Crisp, clean and fruity, this has

attractive acidity and lively fruit. It’s bright and citrus flavored, with an aromatic finish. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 La Chablisienne 2011 Pas si Petit (Petit Chablis). This is delicate and crisply fruity.

Its acidity and citrus presence offer a fragrant charac-ter that contrasts nicely with the more creamy texture. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

85 Château de Maligny 2010 Petit Chablis. Light and fragrant, this emphasizes crisp apple

and grapefruit flavors. It has a light, breezy character.

Very ready to drink. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

85 Domaine Laroche 2011 Petit Chablis. Light and almost herbaceous, this is the sim-

plest Chablis in the Laroche portfolio. It has pure, clean white-fruit and red apple flavors, tautened by acidity, ending with a crisp, green finish. Screwcap. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

SAINT BRIS

84 La Chablisienne 2011 Saint Bris. Sauvi-gnon Blanc’s Burgundy enclave of Saint-Bris

produces a round version of the grape, leaning towards yellow fruit flavors, with herbaceous aromas. This is fruity and can be consumed now. Blasons de Bourgogne Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

MARSANNAY

86 Louis Latour 2010 Marsannay. Firm, tense and structured, this has weight and richness,

with notes of quince and green plums, lending ripeness and acidity. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

CORTON GRANDS CRUS

95 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Corton­Charlemagne. Powerful and concentrated,

this has an intense expression of ripe tropical fruits. The wood shows strongly at this stage, although with this amount of richness, it has the weight and the power to develop well over many years. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $123

94 Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Corton Ver­gennes. Big, rich and powerful, this uses

grapes sourced from a small section of the Corton hill that’s close to Charlemagne. It has the ripe pineapple and apricot flavors to go with the acidity. With its enor-mous concentration, this is ready to age over at least 10 years. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $175

94 Louis Latour 2010 Corton­Charlemagne. For full review see page 5.

abv: 14% Price: $130

93 Henri de Villamont 2009 Corton­Char­lemagne. This is grandiose, with ripe apricot

and peach flavors—even a note of mango—that are al-lied to the wood notes. As a contrast, there is fine acidity and elegance, with a lemon zest edge that gives struc-ture to this full, superripe, powerful effort. Frank John-son Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $125

MEURSAULT

93 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Genevrières Premier Cru (Meursault).

Soft and rich, with ripe fruit flavors, this is warm and opulent. Packed with notes of spice and toast, the ripe peach flavor is layered into the fine, elegant struc-ture. Aging will make it even more delicious. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $72

93 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Perri­ères Premier Cru (Meursault). Nervy and

textured, this is a wine under tension. It is crisp with acidity, with lots of bright green-fruit and citrus flavors. This is complex and age worthy, bringing out the intense texture from the vineyard. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Se-lection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $80

92 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les Charmes Premier Cru (Meursault). Us-

ing grapes sourced from the upper part of the Charmes Vineyard, this is rounded and full, showing the thin soil through its concentration. Touched by toast and spice notes, the yellow fruit flavors are rich, while the acidity and taut texture promise aging. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $78

91 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Meursault. There is a touch of wood here, partnering with the wine’s

weight, minerality and crisp character. White fruit fla-vors of apple and pear lend further brightness. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $46

91 Louis Latour 2010 Meursault Blagny Pre­mier Cru (Meursault). Big and fruity, this is

very lively, balancing butteriness with green-fruit acid-ity. The wine is maturing quickly, its tension is fading into rich, wood-flavored fruitiness. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $70

90 Domaine Jean Monnier et Fils 2010 Charmes Premier Cru (Meursault). Soft

and round, this is still coming around. Its fruit flavors are muted by wood and spice, although it already shows richness. It will be an opulent, full wine, with deliciously ripe fruits. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $77

90 Henri de Villamont 2009 Les Clous (Meursault). On the mineral side of Meur-

sault, the has a very textured feel, with acidity to go with the honey note. Finely balanced, warm and ripe, this has a crisp, tight finish. Frank Johnson Selections. Edi-tors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $55

88 Bouchard Aîné & Fils 2009 Cuvée Signa­ture Le Porusot Premier Cru (Meursault).

With its white fruit, lively acidity and delicious ripeness, this is very ready to drink. It’s an opulent, rounded wine, with hints of spice to go with its fruit character. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les Nar­vaux (Meursault). This is round, while also

having a mineral edge. Apple and wood flavors power

WineMag.com | 47

through the crispness, along with a charming touch of honey. For short-term aging. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $56

87 Louis Latour 2010 Meursault. This has some richness, with a yeasty character and a

note of vanilla. Wood tones comes through slowly along with pear and peach flavors. This is rich, hinting at but-ter as well as minerality. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $50

86 Domaine Jean Monnier et Fils 2010 Clos du Cromin (Meursault). This has herb and

wood aromas, leading to a palate that’s structured, with a yeasty, toasty flavor and a green, herbal character. It is quite tight, and does need to age for at least two years. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $56

MONTRACHET GRANDS CRUS

95 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Bienve­nue­Bâtard­Montrachet. There is such el-

egance on this concentrated wine, combining richness with intense structure. A blend of yellow fruit, crisp ap-ple and lemon zest flavors surface on this opulent, bal-anced and structured effort. This is meant for long-term aging. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $256

95 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Cheva­lier­Montrachet. This is a deeply rich, very

impressive wine from a great white-wine vintage. It’s concentrated with the essence of pure Chardonnay. It has tension along with a full texture. Age it for at least 10 years. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $398

94 Louis Latour 2010 Montrachet. For full re-view see page 5.

abv: 14% Price: $430

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET

94 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les Fo­latières Premier Cru (Puligny­Montrach­

et). Perfumed, floral and ageworthy, this combines a taut texture with a toast note, showing great depth of flavor. The line of pure green and white fruit is very ap-parent. On the finish, bright acidity matches the great fruitiness. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $80

93 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les Pu­celles Premier Cru (Puligny­Montrachet).

Wood and ripe fruit flavors drive this explosively fruity wine. Its richness is balanced by the acidity from green apple and lime fruits. Spice from the wood aging adds piquancy, leads to a final burst of textured minerality. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $99

92 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les Combettes Premier Cru (Puligny­Mon­

trachet). This is a floral wine that combines structure,

firm acidity and intensely ripe fruit. Flavors of green fruit, citrus, toast and some smoke give complexity to this concentrated, full-bodied effort. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $87

92 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les Referts Premier Cru (Puligny­Montrach­

et). Opulent and very minerally, this is deeply flavored and concentrated, with a lively, crisp edge. It’s fruity while also having a textured finish that shows a struc-tured, age-worthy side. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $84

92 Jean­Claude Boisset 2009 Champ Gain Premier Cru (Puligny­Montrachet). Still

showing its youthful fruity character, this concentrated wine is going to develop richness while always retain-ing its elegance. The acidity and structured fruit lend a strong sense of minerality, although it keeps its ripe-ness. Age for 3–4 years. Boisset Family Estates. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

92 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Puligny­Montrach­et. This is rich and opulent while still preserv-

ing its acidity and concentrated structure. It’s floral and minerally, fragrant, round and crisp. Age for 3–4 years. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $56

92 Louis Latour 2010 Les Folatières Premier Cru (Puligny­Montrachet). This is a taut

wine, touched by yeast and warmed by ripe yellow fruit. Flavors of melon and spice from the new wood give it an open feel. It’s ripe, already rounded and full bodied. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $90

90 Domaine Jean Monnier et Fils 2010 Pu­ligny­Montrachet. Already a delicious wine,

this has ripe yellow fruits, with notes of wood and spice adding complexity. The minerally acidity brings out the flavors of this ripe, structured effort. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

90 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Vieilles Vignes (Puligny­Montrachet). For full re-

view see page 9. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $56

90 Louis Latour 2010 Puligny­Montrachet. This is complex and ripe but also mineraly and

very structured. It offers many facets of the village: its richness and its strong sense of terroir. Bright, clean and fragrant on the finish. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $60

90 Michel Picard 2009 Puligny­Montrachet. Big and opulent, this has ripe tropical fruits,

with a soft, toasty texture and full-bodied feel. With its richness, this is developing quickly and is already ready to drink. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

CHASSAGNE- MONTRACHET

93 Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Les Chen­evottes Premier Cru (Chassagne­Montra­

chet). This is crisp, with citrus and red apple fruits that are heightened by the taut structure. Nervy acidity adds to the tense feel while judicious layers of wood warm the finish. For long-term aging. Terlato Wines Interna-tional. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $94

93 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les Caillerets Premier Cru (Chassagne­Mon­

trachet). A signature wine for Girardin, this is power-ful and rich, with apricot, quince and green plum fruits that are layered within the taut texture. A toast note rounds out this complex, ageworthy wine. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $72

92 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 La Ro­manée Premier Cru (Chassagne­Montra­

chet). Big and rounded, this will eventually develop into a ripe, complex wine. Spice and toast notes merge with the yellow fruits and structured nervosity. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $94

92 Louis Latour 2010 Morgeot Premier Cru (Chassagne­Montrachet). This is a struc-

tured wine with rich, concentrated fruits. It has a strong mineral content along with a tense texture. Tropical fruit flavors come through on the rich, opulent finish. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $70

91 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les Chaumes Premier Cru (Chassagne­Mon­

trachet). This is a very mineral driven wine—the ripe fruit is cut with acidity, green fruits and herbs. Textured and ripe, its freshness is a counterpoint to the full fruit flavors. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $72

91 Henri de Villamont 2009 Clos St­Jean Premier Cru (Chassagne­Montrachet).

This is aromatic, with ripeness that balances the bright green and white fruits. Wood and spice notes are fol-lowed by a touch of lemon jelly and minerally acidity. It’s a wine that is still developing, waiting for the ripe fruit of the vintage to surface. Frank Johnson Selec-tions. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $65

91 Henri de Villamont 2009 Morgeot Pre­mier Cru (Chassagne­Montrachet). This is

firm, rich and closed, with the fruit showing potential richness under the tight exterior. Packed with notes of wood, spice and a taut texture, this is a wine to enjoy several years down the road. Age for at least five years. Frank Johnson Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $75

91 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Chassagne­Mon­trachet. This is very structured and full, with a

powerful minerality, citrus and spice flavors, and a tight,

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

nervy character. It has the weight to age for 3–4 years. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $56

90 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Morgeot Premier Cru (Chassagne­Montrachet).

Full, soft and rich, this has flavors of ripe yellow fruit and red apple, with a textured edge. The wine is round and layered with delicious acidity. While its already to drink now, it will age for 3–4 years. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $72

90 Henri de Villamont 2009 Chassagne­Montrachet. Minerally acidity dominates this

otherwise rich wine. Lemon and apricot notes combine well together, while a touch of almond pushes through to give extra complexity to this stylish, elegant wine. Frank Johnson Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Louis Latour 2010 Chassagne­Montrach­et. Melon, mango and tropical fruit notes are

all found on this soft, open wine. It is full and round, with an attractive, simple fruitiness, and acidity that cuts through on the finish. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $80

89 Vincent Prunier 2010 Chassagne­Mon­trachet. This is taut and minerally, with intense

acidity. The structure comes from tangy notes of lem-on zest and peach skin. There is some discreet wood aging, but it remains crisp and refreshing. Saranty Im-ports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Bouchard Aîné & Fils 2009 Cuvée Signa­ture Morgeot Premier Cru (Chassagne­

Montrachet). The ripe yellow fruits and wood aging work together in this rich, full-bodied effort. The acidity lends a refreshing relief as the wine rolls around on the palate. Drink in a year. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

SAINT-AUBIN

91 Jean­Claude Boisset 2009 En Remilly Premier Cru (Saint­Aubin). Concentrated

and rich, with some wood influence, this has ripe yellow fruits that are balanced with an intense streak of acidity, lending a sense of tension. It’s very full, round and al-ready a delight to drink. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

89 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Murger des Dents de Chien Premier Cru (Saint­

Aubin). Very minerally in character, this wine has only a touch of wood, showing attractive acidity, citrus fruits and a tight, nervy texture. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45

88 Château Philippe­le­Hardi 2010 En Ves­vau (Saint­Aubin). This is an attractive, fruity

wine, with citrus and creamed apple flavors. It is light and fragrant, with apricots and white fruits that pair with the crisp finish. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35

88 Jean­Claude Boisset 2009 Saint­Aubin. On the nose, the aromas are of wood and fruit,

but the palate demonstrates the ripe fruit of the vin-tage. It’s smooth and opulent, and the barrel influence is in balance with the yellow and orange fruit flavors. This will be ready to drink in two years. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Michel Picard 2009 Le Charmois Premier Cru (Saint­Aubin). Ripe and full bodied, this

is a wine that reflects the softness of the vintage. Aged in wood, it has a rounded texture, with spice, apricot and pineapple flavors, finishing with a touch of acidity. Pres-tige Wine Group. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

87 Château Philippe­le­Hardi 2009 En Ves­vau (Saint­Aubin). Exhibiting the roundness

of the vintage, this is rich and soft. With notes of al-mond, yeast and yellow fruit, this is already maturing into a bold, open wine. Ready to drink. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35

OTHER CÔTE DE BEAUNE WINES

92 Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Clos des Mouches Premier Cru (Beaune). This is

a very taut wine from the poorest soil in the Clos des Mouches Vineyard. This tastes of citrus fruit, with a powerful, spicy, complex finish that promises good ag-ing. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $112

92 Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Les Cara­deux Premier Cru (Pernand­Vergeless­

es). Structured and fruity, this has plenty of minerality to pair with the crisp citrus flavor. The wood influence gives it extra depth, while the crispness is preserved by a final steely thrust. This structured wine should age for four years or more Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $53

89 Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Hauts Marcon­nets Premier Cru (Savigny­lès­Beaune).

This is wood laden, with sweet fruit that compensates for the toastiness. The oak element should integrate well in the next 2–3 years, making for a wine that’s soft and sweetly fruity, with smoky acidity. Terlato Wines In-ternational. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $39

89 Henri de Villamont 2009 Les Hautés (Auxey­Duresses). This demonstrates a good

balance between minerality and ripe pineapple and apricot fruits. With a twist of lemon and an herb accent, it has both crispness and richness. Frank Johnson Selec-tions. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $40

89 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Saint­Romain. This is ripe, structured and fragrant, with a touch of

wood. It shows fine concentration and crisp, fresh citrus on the finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Château Philippe­le­Hardi 2010 Clos Philippe­le­Hardi (Bourgogne Hautes

Côtes de Beaune). Crisp and cool, this shows a va-nilla flavor that softens the attractive tight, acidic fruit. It’s light in texture, with a prominent tang of citrus. Sa-ranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24

86 Nuiton­Beaunoy 2010 Hautes Cotes de Beaune. This is a light wine with tropical fruit

flavors. The acidity and notes of almond and white fruit add to its rounded, ready-to-drink feel. Opici Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16

MERCUREY

91 Domaine Faiveley 2010 Clos Rochette (Mercurey). The toast character lends a firm

structure to this solid, rich wine. A spice note pairs well with the white plum and apricot fruit, and there is a sense that this needs to age for several years in order to bring out its richness and full potential. Frederick Wild-man & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

91 Domaines Devillard 2010 Château de Chamirey (Mercurey). With its straw col-

or and wood aging aromas, this is rich, bearing yellow peach and pear fruits, along with a toast note and juicy acidity. It’s already impressive but should drink well for another three years at least. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35

89 Michel Picard 2009 Clos Paradis Premier Cru (Mercurey). Rich, ripe and round, this is

full of yellow fruit, with only light acidity. It is soft and open, with a full, smooth character, showing the influ-ence from having been wood aged. It’s worth aging for 2–3 years. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

88 Domaine Faiveley 2010 Mercurey. Toast and caramel aromas set the scene for this ripe,

smooth wine. It has weight and richness, with a vanilla flavor that meshes with the yellow fruit. With all of its opulence, the acidity is lost somewhere, meaning the wine is ready to drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Château Philippe­le­Hardi 2010 Mercu­rey. Soft, full and very rounded, this has yel-

low fruit flavors that are ripe and open, with its acidity emerging slowly. The finish is more focused and fresh. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

87 Château Philippe­le­Hardi 2009 Mercu­rey. Soft and superripe, this has very round

fruit, and the acidity gives it an attractive texture. It is

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broad and rich, showing an open character. This is cer-tainly ready to drink. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

MONTAGNY

89 Domaine Faiveley 2010 Montagny. In-tense, rich and creamy, this effortlessly balances

the wood influence with the apricot and white peach flavors. It demonstrates the opulence of the year while remaining structured. Developing well, this is almost ready to drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26

88 Henri de Villamont 2009 Premier Cru (Montagny). Soft and ripe, this has the rich-

ness of ripe apples and pears, but is lightened with bright acidity. There’s a great tang of lemon to lift the wine into crispness while remaining richly textured. Frank Johnson Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $32

88 Vignerons de Buxy 2009 Les Chaniots Premier Cru (Montagny). Rich and full, the

wood and yellow fruit flavors are well integrated with the ripe acidity. Generous as well as elegant, it’s a wine to drink now. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

87 Vignerons de Buxy 2010 Buissonnier (Montagny). Soft and rounded, this is a ripe,

full-bodied wine. It has pear and peach fruits, laced with lime-like acidity and notes of almond and yeast. With its bright, crisp finish, it’s a wine to age over the next two years. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $21

OTHER CÔTE CHALONNAISE WINES

88 Henri de Villamont 2009 Rully. Honeyed in character, this has notes of toast, sweet tropical

fruit and lemon, with light acidity. The wine feels warm, ripe, open and drinkable now. Frank Johnson Selec-tions. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $28

85 Vignerons de Buxy 2010 Buissonnier (Côte Chalonnaise). Nervy and racy, this has

crisp acidity and a lively orange-zest texture. It’s fruity, with upfront apple and grapefruit flavors, showing just a touch of a minerally character in the background. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

SAINT-VÉRAN

88 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Saint­Véran. Warm and ripe, this has fine honey and yellow fruit fla-

vors. It has well-integrated acidity, with a touch of apple that lends a crisp finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

86 Georges Duboeuf 2010 Domaine de la Batie (Saint­Véran). Soft, smooth and but-

tery, this is full of ripe tropical fruits and bright, citrusy acidity. Ready to drink. Deutsch Family Wine & Spir-its. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Georges Duboeuf 2010 Domaine Saint­Martin (Saint­Véran). Full, ripe and creamy,

this rolls mellifluously around the palate. Pear and plum flavors dominate along with the crisp edge of lime. The finish is just as rich and smooth. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

85 Georges Duboeuf 2011 Saint­Véran. This is fragrant and lighthearted, with citrusy acidity

that laces through the easy, bright green-apple texture. It’s crisp, with a floral finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

POUILLY-FUISSÉ

93 Château de Fuissé 2010 Le Clos (Pouil­ly­Fuissé). One of a range of single-vineyard

wines from Château de Fuissé, this is powerful and complex. It’s intense, with white fruit flavors that are laced with concentrated, wood-influenced notes. It has an opulent, generous feel, while remaining structured. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

93 Château de Fuissé 2010 Les Brûlés (Pouilly­Fuissé). This is powerful, ripe and

creamily smooth, bearing yellow fruits that dominate the wood aging. It’s a rich medley of apricot and yellow peach flavors, laced with citrusy acidity. Full, complex and generous, this is worth aging for over four years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

93 Château de Fuissé 2010 Vieilles Vignes (Pouilly­Fuissé). Ripe and wood aged, this

is rich with ginger and tropical fruit flavors. Dense and concentrated, it is a full-in-the-mouth wine—power-ful and very ageworthy. Give this five years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

92 Château de Fuissé 2010 Les Combettes (Pouilly­Fuissé). Rich and ultraripe, this is

full of yellow fruit, melon and pineapple flavors. Con-trasting with this fruitiness are notes of dense wood and spice. It has an elegant structure, with a crisp, citrusy finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

91 Château Vitalis 2010 Vieilles Vignes (Pouilly­Fuissé). This impressive wood-aged

wine shows both the rich side of Pouilly Fuissé and its taut, minerally character. It is full and rich, yet always expressing a nervy, zingy edge. Age for at least three years. David Milligan Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

90 Château de Fuissé 2010 Tête de Cru (Pouilly­Fuissé). This is full of rich, ripe yel-

low and white fruits, layering the fruitiness with a wood and spice character. The combination creates a com-plex, minerally wine that needs to age over at least 4–5 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

90 Château Vitalis 2010 (Pouilly­Fuissé). Soft, fruity and ripe, this is deliciously flavored

with pear and melon notes. It opens slowly to reveal its wood aging and a hint of spice. Still developing, this needs 2–3 years of aging. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

89 Henri de Villamont 2009 Pouilly­Fuissé. While this shows the ripeness of the vintage, it

remains very minerally in style, with a lemony crispness to match with its white fruit flavor, tight texture and taut finish. Frank Johnson Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $35

88 Georges Duboeuf 2010 Domaine Be­ranger (Pouilly­Fuissé). Opulent and ripe,

full bodied and rich, this has notes of toast and spice as well as apricot and pear flavors. With its balanced char-acter, it can be consumed now, but it will also age for another year. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Georges Duboeuf 2010 Domaine du Bois Rosier (Pouilly­Fuissé). Full bodied and

very round in character, this has rich pineapple and white fruits that are cut with grapefruit-like acidity. A touch of spice surfaces from having been wood aged. This could age for 2–3 years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Louis Latour 2010 Pouilly­Fuissé. Ripe and fruity, this has a crisp line of acidity and a

minerally character. It dances on the palate with its ap-ple and citrus flavors. Already delicious to drink. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

88 Nicolas Potel 2010 Pouilly­Fuissé. Taut and mineral driven, this is full in the mouth,

with ripe apricot and red apple fruits. Acidity lines the edges of the wine, giving it freshness while also being smoothed out by a toast note. It could age for another two years. Wines Unlimited, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Georges Duboeuf 2010 Clos Reyssie (Pouilly­Fuissé). With toasty wood-aging fla-

vors, this is a rich, spicy wine. It has a note of nutmeg to balance the citrus- and apricot-like acidity and the ripe depth of flavor. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Georges Duboeuf 2009 Sélection (Pouil­ly­Fuissé). Ripe and wood aged, full bodied

and rounded, this is now mature. Its broad features are tempered by a shot of minerality and a steel note that

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

add a crisp texture to the tropical fruits. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Vincent 2010 Marie­Antoinette (Pouilly­Fuissé). From the Vincent family of Château

de Fuissé, this is a ripe wine, with its green plum and nectarine fruits giving it roundness. At the same time, there is a bright, attractive edge of crispness, with a cit-rusy finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

85 Georges Duboeuf 2011 Pouilly­Fuissé. The softest of the Pouilly Fuissés produced by

Duboeuf, this is a smooth, creamy and toasty wine. A peach note and warm, ripe fruits dominate. Very ready to drink. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

MÂCON-VILLAGES

87 Nicolas Potel 2010 Mâcon­Villages. This is a smooth and apple-fruited wine, with acidity

that’s tempered by a soft texture and a touch of toast. It’s balanced, lightly crisp and ready to drink. Wines Unlim-ited, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Georges Duboeuf 2010 Domaine Chen­evières (Mâcon­Villages). Taut and tex-

tured, yet ripe and soft, this has a nectarine flavor that’s balanced by a note of fresh lime. The finish is easy, nervy and zingy. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

84 Georges Duboeuf 2010 Mâcon­Villages. With a light structure and some minerality, this

is an attractive, textured wine. Flavors of apples, citrus fruits and a note of caramel pair with its zesty character that lends an attractive finishing bite. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

83 Georges Duboeuf 2011 Mâcon­Villages. This is very soft and lacking in definition, with a

light texture. However, it does have a crisp apple flavor and a line of acidity that gives freshness. Deutsch Fam-ily Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

OTHER MÂCONNAIS WINES

89 Château Vitalis 2010 (Mâcon­Fuissé). Underneath the austere exterior, there’s a fruity

character, with layers of citrus, kiwi and white peach fla-vors, along with the richness from having been aged in wood. Cellar this taut, minerally and structured wine for 2–3 years. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Viré­Clessé. A specialty of Chanson, this is lovely and fruity,

with white fruit freshness and a hint of honey. The bal-ance comes from the more nervous acidity, lending this

Chardonnay some structure. Terlato Wines Internation-al. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $22

87 Château Vitalis 2010 Mâcon­Fuissé. Peach and pear flavors give a rich feel to this

warm wine. It has vanilla and cream flavors, with a cit-rus character that cuts through the ripeness on the fin-ish. Ready to drink. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Louis Latour 2010 Pouilly­Vinzelles. Warm and ripe, this has yellow fruits that con-

trast with the freshness of crisp apples. There is a light touch of minerality, although the essence of the wine is its fruitiness. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $22

84 Georges Duboeuf 2010 Mâcon Chaintré. Soft and round, this has a gentle white fruit fla-

vor and a hint of spice. The acidity is open and very easy, finishing with a fragrant finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

BOURGOGNE

88 André Guichot 2010 Les Dressolles Chardonnay (Bourgogne). This is a rich

wine that balances attractive white and yellow fruits with intense citrusy acidity. The result is a structured, round, tangy Chardonnay that is likely to smooth out further as it develops over the next 2–3 years. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Henri de Villamont 2009 Millénaire Char­donnay (Bourgogne). This is a dominated

by new wood, but it still retains fragrant, fresh fruit. A touch of lemon pairs with the toast note, bearing re-freshing acidity on the finish. Frank Johnson Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $26

88 Joseph Drouhin 2010 La Forêt Chardon­nay (Bourgogne). Initially this is round, ripe

and floral, with a touch of honey, but then the acidity comes through with a touch of minerality. Screwcap. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

87 Antoine et Rachel Olivier 2010 Chardon­nay (Bourgogne). A delicious, wood-aged

wine that balances its toast and vanilla flavors with crisp acidity, and notes of citrus and pear. It’s a bright, taut, nervy offering with a strong minerally texture. Citadel Trading. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Bouchard Pere & Fils 2010 Réserve Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Ripe and full

bodied, this is packed with tasty fruits. Notes of pear, apricot and white peach mingle easily together, creating a forward, wine with the right depth of flavor. Henriot Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

87 Bzikot Père et Fils 2010 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). This is ripe and finely balanced,

with its wood-aging character showing well with the yel-low fruit flavor. It has weight and a fine sheen of bright-ness, while the finish shows a crisper side. Vinifrance. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $23

87 Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Le Bourgogne Blanc (Bourgogne). Fruity, ripe and deli-

cious flavors of apples and pears are linked by a fine streak of acidity. This has a lively touch along with a white peach richness on the finish. Terlato Wines In-ternational. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $22

87 Domaine Bernard Millot 2010 Chardon­nay (Bourgogne). Bright grapefruit and lime

flavors are made round with a note of creamed apple. This is a delicious, full-flavored wine that’s finely bal-anced and crisp on the finish. Vigneron Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Domaine Faiveley 2010 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Minerally in character, this is

nervy, and tight. With its flavors of green apple, lime and a hint of spice, this is crisp and food friendly, with a refreshing, bright finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

87 Henri de Villamont 2009 Prestige Char­donnay (Bourgogne). Round and rich, this

has delicious acidity and touches of tropical fruits. It’s ripe and full bodied, with an attractive hint of wood. Frank Johnson Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18

87 Maison Champy 2010 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). This is well balanced, with fruit

and vanilla flavors. It has a rich texture of yellow fruit, followed by fragrant acidity and a warm, rounded finish. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Bouchard Pere & Fils 2010 La Vignée Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Ripe, soft and

round, this is an accessible wine, with easy yellow-fruit flavors that lend a sweetly juicy character. The acidity just cuts through the warm feel to give the finish some lift. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Domaine Hubert Lamy 2010 Les Chataig­niées Chardonnay (Bourgogne). This is

laden with wood, spiced with a toast note that domi-nates this otherwise crisp, nervy wine. The acidity is re-freshing; the citrus note creates a lively streak of fresh-ness. This needs a few months for the wood infuence to soften. Le Serbet. —R.V. abv: 12.7% Price: $NA

86 Domaine Jean Chartron 2010 Chardon­nay (Bourgogne). Ripe and round, this has

attractive, rich fruit flavors of apple and apricot, along with a fine streak of juiciness and acidity that provides a fragrant finish. Winebow. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

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86 Pierre André 2010 Réserve Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Soft and rounded, this has an

attractive fresh-fruit character. It’s warm with a yellow fruit flavor; a crisp touch of grapefruit tempers the rich-ness. Kinson The Future of Wine. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Vincent 2010 JJ Bourgogne Blanc (Bour­gogne). This is fruity, with an apple flavor

that’s lifted by a lemon zest edge. It’s warm with a rich, minerally tautness; a caramel note comes through on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

85 Albert Bichot 2010 Chardonnay (Bour­gogne). Fruity and attractively wood aged,

this is soft and round, with a bright edge of acidity that brings out the taut, refreshing finish. European Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16

85 Domaine Laroche 2011 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Laroche sources grapes from

outside the Chablis area to make this elegant, smooth, caramel- and peach-flavored wine. A touch of wood lends a note of spice and adds to the round texture. Screwcap. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

85 Domaine Patrick Javillier 2010 Cuvée des Forges Chardonnay (Bourgogne).

While this is crisp and fresh, it also has an attractive, round vanilla flavor that provides a smooth, creamy tex-ture. It’s refreshing with apple and pear flavors, with ap-pealing acidity on the finish. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

85 Maison Jessiaume 2010 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Tropical fruit and new wood fla-

vors thread this opulent, seductive Chardonnay. It has surface glamor, with its flavors of ripe mango, peach and toast. Under the surface, the flavors are simple, softly textured. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

85 Vignerons de Buxy 2011 Côtes d’Auxerre Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Using grapes

sourced from vineyards just outside of the Chablis re-gion, this soft and white-fruited wine is attractive and fragrant. A touch of vanilla adds another dimension, lending a ripe feel. Ready to drink. Blasons de Bour-gogne Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 André Guichot 2010 Chardonnay (Bour­gogne). Soft and fruity, this has apple and cit-

rus flavors, with a touch of vanilla. It is light, fragrant and crisp; ready to drink. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 Domaine d’Ardhuy 2010 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Ripe tropical fruits dominate

this smooth wine, creating a warm, almost New World appeal. There is a toast note that balances the rich fruiti-ness. Wineberry America LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

84 Jean­Claude Boisset 2010 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Soft and ripe, this is a fruity

wine with apple and pear flavors that are lightly en-hanced by the juicy, refreshing acidity. The finish is lively and fragrant. Screwcap. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 L. Tramier et Fils 2010 Tiserny Chardon­nay (Bourgogne). While the creamy fruit is

attractive, this is a light wine, with a touch of pear and apple flavors. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

84 Michel Picard 2009 Chardonnay (Bour­gogne). Fresh and fruity, this has a ripe apricot

character that contrasts the mineral acidity and bright fruit character. The wine dances lightly and is now ready to drink. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

83 Domaine Patrick Javillier 2010 Cuvée Oligocene Chardonnay (Bourgogne).

Open and simple, this has a light touch of citrus fruit, with an edge of wood in the background. It is bright and ready to drink. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

83 Louis Jadot 2010 Chardonnay (Bour­gogne). This is a gentle wine that’s textured

with acidity, offering yellow and white fruits and some toast and spice flavors. It is round and soft, finishing with a tight edge of acidity. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

83 Lupé­Cholet 2010 Chardonnay (Bour­gogne). Fruity, ripe and round, this is simple

Chardonnay that gives pleasure from its warm texture and softness. The apple flavor leads to a gentle finish. Europvin. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

83 Pierre André 2010 Octavie Crémieux Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Light and sim-

ple, this is all about fruit and freshness. There is a hint of citrus, and the acidity shows well on the finish. More of an aperitif style. LVC Las Vegas Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.6% Price: $NA

83 Sylvain Dussort 2010 Cuvée des Ormes Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Forward and

fruity, this allies fresh, upfront apple and citrus fruits with acidity. Light, bright and crisp, it offers pleasurable drinkability. Garnet New York. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

82 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils 2010 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). While the wine

is clean and refreshing, its texture lacks definition. It has a soft, bright finish. The Sorting Table. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

82 Maison Champy 2010 Signature Char­donnay (Bourgogne). Nutmeg and cinna-

mon aromas cover the fruit, leaving only the acidity to prove that there is some fruitiness in this wine. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

82 Pierre Morey 2010 Chardonnay (Bour­gogne). While the initial impression is fruity,

the wine then shows almond and spice characters. The texture, is thin and light, like apple juice with taut acid-ity. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

81 Domaine Luquet 2010 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). This is a yeasty wine, with the

fruit less evident. It has acidity and a touch of apple, although a bitter edge cuts into the rounded texture. In-ternational Wines Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

81 Manuel Seguin 2010 Chardonnay (Bour­gogne). This is bitter, with hints of sulfur,

yeast and almond. It’s soft in texture and lacking fruit. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE

91 Bailly­Lapierre 2007 Vive­la­Joie Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). The minerality is

a reminder that the grapes come from an area near Cha-blis. It has a tangy, zingy character, with a nervy edge that promises aging, but it also provides fruity, apple-driven pleasure now. William Harrison Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

90 Bailly­Lapierre NV Brut Pinot Noir (Cré­mant de Bourgogne). This is deliciously fra-

grant, with harmonious fruit and acidity. It has a full, rich character that offers currant and citrus flavors. Wil-liam Harrison Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $24

90 Bailly­Lapierre 2009 Egarade Brut (Cré­mant de Bourgogne). This is yeasty, bearing

crisp flavors of pear and green apple, with a taut lem-on-zest texture and a firm edge of minerality. It needs at least three years in bottle. Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $24

90 Bailly­Lapierre 2007 Vive­la­Joie Rosé Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). Deliciously

crisp, this is a light and lively blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. With its raspberry and red apple flavors, it exudes fruitiness, with an attractively soft finish. Wil-liam Harrison Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

ROSÉ

84 Manuel Olivier 2009 Rosé (Hautes Côtes de Nuits). Light and very fruity, this has crisp

raspberry and red currant flavors, with a lively, acid-driv-en texture. It is breezy, refreshing and ready to drink. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

RED BURGUNDY

CHAMBERTIN GRANDS CRUS

96 Domaine Perrot­Minot 2010 Chambertin Clos de Bèze. Despite its power, this is so el-

egant, showing tannins, minerality and generous flavors of black fruits, dark chocolate and spices. The smooth and rich surface belies the inner taut texture, show-ing how the wine will need many years to finally come round. Martine’s Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Domaine Faiveley 2010 Mazis­Cham­bertin. Rich, yet always elegant, this has a rasp-

berry flavor and terrific acidity that creates tension, con-trasting with the opulent fruit. While it’s structured, it will soften and round out over the next five years. Fred-erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $290

95 Domaine Perrot­Minot 2010 Chapelle­Chambertin. Using grapes sourced from

80-year-old vines, this is a rich, powerful wine, with juicy, generous black fruits. The big tannins are right upfront, lending a solid, dense texture. Gentle black fruits and acidity emerge on the finish. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Domaine Perrot­Minot 2010 Charmes­Chambertin. This is big, muscular and very

opulent, with its density lying over its minerality. Fla-vors of black stone fruits and red berries have the inten-sity of a powerful, age-worthy wine. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Domaine Perrot­Minot 2010 Mazoyères­Chambertin. The small Mazoyères-Cham-

bertin Grand Cru creates structured wines with plenty of texture and tannins. This is brooding, firm and very concentrated, with its fruit set way behind the dark tan-nins and spice note. It will take at least 10 years to start to mature. Martine’s Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Chambertin Clos de Bèze. Big and showy, with an ripe,

opulent feel, this is all about dark fruits and firm tan-nins. Flavors of black cherries and plums are balanced by the acidity, all rolled together into a structure that’s powerful and seriously age-worthy. Terlato Wines Inter-national. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $248

94 Domaine Drouhin­Laroze 2010 Cham­bertin Clos de Bèze. Powerful while still

fruity, this shows acidity and notes of ripe black cherry and spice. Very structured and solid, this complete, tan-nin-packed wine is definitely for long-term aging. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Charmes­Chambertin. Big and concentrated, this is

packed with tannins and solid dark fruits. It’s powerful with a dark plum flavor and an impressive density of tex-ture. Give it at least 7–10 years. Vineyard Brands. Cel-lar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $128

92 Louis Latour 2010 Chambertin. Concen-trated, dense and powerful, this has all the

structure of a Chambertin. As a contrast, the juicy acid-ity cuts through the texture, luring out black fruits that balance the solid core of tannins. It needs to age for at least seven years. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $260

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN

93 Domaine Drouhin­Laroze 2010 Lavaut Saint­Jacques Premier Cru (Gevrey­

Chambertin). Structured, dense and packed with black fruits, this is complex wine. Yet with all of its ripe-ness, it offers a great line of freshness and a smoky wood flavor, with blackberry-like acidity on the finish. Age for five years or more. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Se-lection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Domaine Faiveley 2010 Les Cazetiers Premier Cru (Gevrey­Chambertin). This

is rich, showing the full-bodied character of a Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru. It has a sense of gravity and structure, with a flavor of red-plum jelly. Solid and chunky, this already expresses its fruit, although it does need at least six years to mature. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $110

92 Jean­Claude Boisset 2009 Lavaut Saint­Jacques Premier Cru (Gevrey­Cham­

bertin). While it has all the structure of Gevrey-Cham-bertin, it also has the richness of the vintage. This strikes a healthy balance between the two, creating a powerful wine that’s full of black fruits and sweet tannins, with a firm, dry core. Age for 5–6 years. Boisset Family Es-tates. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

91 Domaine Heresztyn 2010 Les Champon­nets Premier Cru (Gevrey­Chambertin).

While this is currently firm and closed, it promises fine things to come. Weight and richness combine with a sol-id core of tannins. The intense, refreshing acidity is a counterpoint to the ripe black-plum flavor. With all of this concentration, this should age for over 5–6 years. Saranty Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $94

90 Domaine Drouhin­Laroze 2010 Gevrey­Chambertin. There is a ripe, jammy straw-

berry feel to this generous, warm-hearted wine. The structure is elegant, showcasing its fruits as much as its tannins, yet leaving the impression of a Pinot Noir that has hidden power. Age this for 3–4 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Joseph Faiveley 2010 Gevrey­Cham­bertin. Light colored and fruity, this is all about

red fruit—its structure and firm tannins coming out slowly. This village wine demonstrates the richness of the appellation, showing a fine balance between its ripe fruit and its smoky, dry, tannic core. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $70

89 Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Gevrey­Cham­bertin. Concentrated and complex, this has

structure and acidity, with a black cherry flavor. It’s a ripe, powerful wine that could become more generous as it ages. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $72

88 Domaine Heresztyn 2010 Vieilles Vignes (Gevrey­Chambertin). This is concentrated,

with black plum and damson flavors that are balanced by firm, dense tannins. It has a dry, solid core, with a more perfumed character that merges with the acidity. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $55

88 Nuiton­Beaunoy 2009 Gevrey­Cham­bertin. This is a big and full-bodied wine, with

its tannins merging with notes of red plum fruit and spicy wood. With a generous feel, it also has a solid, powerful structure that offers the possibility of aging. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $59

MOREY-SAINT-DENIS

91 Domaine Heresztyn 2010 Les Millandes Premier Cru (Morey­Saint­Denis). De-

liciously perfumed, this shows some of the structure of the vintage, along with generous raspberry and red cherry flavors. It is rich and solid, and its open char-acter has just the right edge of dense tannins. Already approachable, but it’s likely to age over several years. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $94

89 Domaine Perrot­Minot 2010 La Rue de Vergy (Morey­Saint­Denis). Full of very

ripe fruit, this is soft and smooth at the beginning, be-fore showing a firmer structure. It has a plum flavor and ripe acidity. With its superrichness and roundness, this is likely to be ready to drink soon. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY

94 Domaine Perrot­Minot 2010 La Combe d’Orveau Cuvée Ultra Premier Cru

(Chambolle­Musigny). Christophe Perrot-Minot makes this wine from a parcel of the vineyard that is declassified grand cru. It’s opulent and generous, yet it’s also minerally and fresh. The sumptuous Chambolle feel is still to come as the wine rounds out and loses its youthful tannins. Age for at least seven years. Martine’s Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Jean­Claude Boisset 2009 Les Charmes Premier Cru (Chambolle­Musigny). This is

rich, complex and full of ripe fruit. A firm structure un-

WineMag.com | 53

derlies the richness, lending concentration and density. The fruit is still reticent and will show more generously in another year. Age for five years. Boisset Family Es-tates. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

91 Domaine Perrot­Minot 2010 Vieilles Vi­gnes (Chambolle­Musigny). Using grapes

sourced from 102-year-old vines, this is superripe and concentrated. Yet despite its richness, it has tight acid-ity that meshes with plum and damson fruits. Age for at least five years. Martine’s Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Jean­Claude Boisset 2009 Les Char­dannes (Chambolle­Musigny). The tannins

are already finely integrated into the rich, ripe fruit. It has a smoky character along with a note of wood spice, and the black plum fruit serves as a juicy underlay. Giv-en its weight and structure, this should for age five years at least. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

89 Domaine Heresztyn 2010 Chambolle­Musigny. Vinified in the soft, opulent style of

Chambolle, this is ripe and round. With its dry edge and rich fruit, the structure of the apparent is apparent. The acidity cuts through to give a juicy element. Already de-licious to drink, but it’s worth aging over 2–3 years. Sa-ranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $68

89 Louis Latour 2010 Chambolle­Musigny. Firm from the start, the wine then shows both

ripe red-berry fruit and a dense structure. There’s an herbal edge that will soften in the next 2–3 years, bring-ing out the richness of Chambolle. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $80

ECHÉZEAUX

95 Domaine Faiveley 2010 Echézeaux. Very structured and firm, this has the weight, rich-

ness and power that is typical of Echézeaux. It’s the ten-sion between the tannins and the ripe black fruits that give this wine its great aging ability and depth of flavor. It needs at least six years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

94 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Echézeaux. Firmly tannic and powerful, this

is dominated by a plum skin texture and a spice note. It’s dense and rich, with a dry structure and the acidity of the vintage showing on the finish. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $141

94 Domaines Devillard 2010 Domaine des Perdrix (Echézeaux). This has all the ele-

ments—fruit, tannin, acidity and wood, with powerful weight and concentration. Let this age for at least eight years; this is going to be impressive. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $195

93 Jean­Claude Boisset 2009 Echézeaux. In this vintage, Echézeaux reveals an extra edge

of really ripe, full fruits. They are balanced by the firm wood- and spice-laden structure, with the tannins and intense acids adding the final touches. Age this over 7–8 years. Boisset Family Estates. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

VOSNE-ROMANÉE

93 Domaine Perrot­Minot 2010 Les Beaux­Monts Premier Cru (Vosne­Romanée). A

minerally textured wine, this layers tannins and a dark, brooding character over the ripe black fruits. It has con-siderable power and richness, with intensity of fruit and spice, and a sweet, almost soft finish. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Domaine Perrot­Minot 2010 Champs Per­drix (Vosne­Romanée). This demonstrates

the power, concentration and firm structure that comes from the vintage. The fruit is rich and powered by opu-lent black fruits, with a dark, intensely textured finish. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Domaines Devillard 2010 Domaine des Perdrix (Vosne­Romanée). This demon-

strates the complexity of firm and concentrated Vosne-Romanée, with a generous, fruity character. It shows its structure first, followed by beautiful red fruits. Age for 4–5 years or more. Deutsch Family Wine & Spir-its. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $75

86 Domaine Coquard Loison­Fleurot 2010 Vosne­Romanée. Firm and structured, this

has strong tannins set over smoky fruit. It has concen-tration, although the wood flavor has an old-wood feel, seeming just a touch dirty. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $63

NUITS-ST.-GEORGES

94 Domaine Perrot­Minot 2010 La Richemonne Cuvée Ultra Premier Cru

(Nuits­St.­Georges). Made from grapes sourced from vines planted in 1902, this is a huge, powerful, minerally wine. It’s currently tight as a drum, with sol-id tannins and great density that pair with ripe plum and wood flavors. The acidity that appears on the fin-ish promises long-term aging. Martine’s Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Domaine Perrot­Minot 2010 La Richemonne Premier Cru (Nu­

its­St.­Georges). Made from grapes that were sourced from vines close to Vosne-Romanée, this has all of the structure of a Nu-its-St-Georges, with the power and density of Vosne-Vosne-Romanée. Delicious, concentrated black fruits pair with the acidity and the core of tannins. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Domaines Devillard 2010 Domaine des Perdrix Les 8 Ouvrées Aux Perdrix Pre­

mier Cru (Nuits­St.­Georges). While wood aromas are prominent now, this ultimately showcase the ripe red fruits that lie underneath. It has a solid core of tan-nins, which is balanced by the juicy fruit. Age for 6–7 years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $120

91 Domaines Devillard 2010 Domaine des Perdrix Aux Perdrix Premier Cru (Nuits­

St.­Georges). With its intense red fruits and acidity, this initially seems so fruity. Slowly the powerful struc-ture comes into play, yielding a concentrated, cellar-worthy wine. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $98

90 Domaine Faiveley 2010 Nuits­St.­Georg­es. This is certainly structured, with firm and

chunky tannins dominating the the ripe fruit. Acidity cuts through the palate, lending a lively, juicy sensation. As the wine ages over the next four years, it will develop richness to go with its structure. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $65

89 Domaine A. Machard de Gramont 2010 Les Damodes Premier Cru (Nuits­St.­

Georges). For a Premier Cru, this is surprisingly open and ready. It has a light structure, offering delicious, for-ward, juicy fruit that has been rounded out by wood ag-ing. With its ripe character, it will be ready to drink in a year. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $78

89 Domaines Devillard 2010 Domaine des Perdrix (Nuits­St.­Georges). Big, solid and

chunky, this is packed with tannins and dark plum fruit. It has a rich character, and its acidity is layered with the concentrated fruit. It needs to age for over several years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $65

89 Jean­Claude Boisset 2009 Les Charbon­nières (Nuits­St.­Georges). This is finely

structured, with its ripe tannins forming a solid base for the dense red fruit and spicy wood flavors. It’s soli and chunky, showing its youth through the rich texture. Age for 3–4 years. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Nuits­St.­Georges. A foursquare, solid wine that shows

its structure right up front. It is backed by red fruits and acids that lend a warm feeling. Full and dense, this needs to age. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $68

88 Laroze de Drouhin 2010 Les Charmottes (Nuits­St.­Georges). This has soft tannins,

ripe fruit and fresh acidity, with a dominant berry flavor. For a Nuits-St-Georges, this is quite open. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

OTHER CÔTE DE NUITS WINES

94 Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Clos de Vou­geot. This is a ripe Pinot Noir, with a firm and

solid structure and a very dense character. It has con-centration and a great depth of flavor; the blacks fruits and tannins cut into the heart of the wine. Age for at least seven years. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $187

93 Domaine Heresztyn 2010 Clos Saint­De­nis. This is concentrated, but it’s all structure

at this stage. It has rich black fruits that lie under the dense tannins, with a potentially rich powerhouse of fla-vor. It needs at least six years of aging. Saranty Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $197

92 Louis Latour 2010 Clos de Vougeot. Sol-id and powerful, with a very firm character, this

shows the structured, concentrated side of the vineyard, with complex acidity cutting through the dark tannins. The wine is condensed and solidly based around a firm, dry core. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $260

90 Bouchard Aîné & Fils 2009 Cuvée Signa­ture (Clos de la Roche). This is broad and

quite soft, with a dense, jammy red-fruit flavor. It has tannins that are buried in the rich fruit, giving shape to the wine. This is likely to mature soon. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Côte de Nuits­Vil­lages. Structured and firm, this has perfumed

acids and solid tannins. A fruity character surfaces, lending a round finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23

87 Bouchard Aîné & Fils 2009 Cuvée Signa­ture La Mazière (Fixin). A fruity wine from

the lesser known Fixin appellation, this has strawberry fruit, soft tannins and a warm, rich texture. The acidity brings out a bright side to this approachable offering. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Nuiton­Beaunoy 2010 Les Dames Hu­guettes (Hautes Côtes de Nuits). Fragrant

and perfumed, this has a smoky character and crisp fruit, while remaining attractively ripe. The tannins are soft, and the acidity on the finish is fruity. Opici Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

86 Louis Latour 2010 Marsannay. This is fruity, with some structure and pure acidity. It’s

fragrant and delicious now, bearing raspberry fruit and a light texture. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

86 Manuel Olivier 2009 Vieilles Vignes (Hautes Côtes de Nuits). With the extra

concentration from the low-yielding old vines, this is

a dense wine, with its acidity contrasting the rich red fruit. It is round and smooth, with well-integrated tan-nins and a soft, fruity finish. Pierre Courdurie Selec-tions/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Nuiton­Beaunoy 2010 Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Light, fragrant, and structured, this

shows a smoky flavor and refreshing red-berry fruit. It’s lively and fruity, and the tannins are in the background. Opici Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

85 Domaine Guy & Yvan Dufouleur 2009 Clos du Chapitre Premier Cru (Fixin).

While the texture is rich and full-bodied, there is an edge of sharp acidity that takes away from the generous ripeness. Tannins and juicy red fruits are present, but the acidity is a little jarring. Masciarelli Wine Co. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $68

85 Manuel Olivier 2009 Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Warm, ripe and round, this red-fruited

wine has a fine feeling of richness. It is soft and fruity, with just the right amount of acidity to balance. Ready to drink. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 L. Tramier et Fils 2010 Hautes Côtes de Nuits. This is a juicy, red-currant-flavored

wine. With its round feel and soft, smoky tannins, it has an initial smoothness that is given some bite by the red-berry acidity on the finish. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24

ALOXE-CORTON

91 Château Philippe­le­Hardi 2010 Les Bru­nettes et Planchots (Aloxe­Corton). Com-

plex, dense and structured, this has dark plum fruit and solid, integrated tannins. It has weight and richness, finishing with crisp red-berry acidity. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

91 Vincent Sauvestre 2010 Les Maréchaudes Premier Cru (Aloxe­Corton). Complex and

structured, this has rich tannins and a strawberry jam flavor from the ripe fruit. With its fine balance between the dry core and the fruity exterior, this should be cel-lared for at least four years. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

90 Château Philippe­le­Hardi 2009 Les Bru­nettes et Planchots (Aloxe­Corton). With

its ripe strawberry-jam flavor, this demonstrates classic Pinot Noir juiciness. It has dry tannins as well, yielding a ripe, concentrated wine that needs five years of aging. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $43

SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE

90 Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Dominode Premier Cru (Savigny­lès­Beaune). This

shows Savigny’s softness and approachability, along with tannins and acids. It is firmly concentrated, creating a wine that feels complete, juicy and rich. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $42

90 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Clos de Godeaux Premier Cru (Savigny­lès­Beaune). Floral

and round, this pushes its red berry flavors forward. It’s so elegant and perfumed, with an attractive structure and acidity. Ready to drink in a few months. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35

88 Moillard 2010 Aux Clous Premier Cru (Savigny­lès­Beaune). This carefully balanc-

es its firm structure and red fruit to form an attractive, well-textured character. It doesn’t have a huge depth of flavor, but it’s so poised and elegant, and aging well. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

POMMARD

93 Olivier Leflaive 2010 Epenots Premier Cru (Pommard). This is complex and power-

ful, with its energy directed equally at the concentrated tannins and at the ripe damson and plum fruits. It’s go-ing to be a delicious wine—the wood element smooth-ing the firm edge. Age for at least five years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $100

91 Vincent Prunier 2010 Les Chaponnières Premier Cru (Pommard). This is a big,

wood-laden smoky wine, with notes of spice and entic-ing toast to go with the firm tannins. At the same time, the fruit is vying to show its rich red-plum character. Give this 4–5 years to begin to show its best. Saranty Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

90 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Epenots Premier Cru (Pommard). Ripe and fruity,

this has tannins that are soft and rounded. It has struc-ture and concentration, with ripe black-cherry fruit. It’s surprisingly ready to drink for a Pommard, although the tannins demonstrate its ageability. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $58

90 Olivier Leflaive 2010 Pommard. Tannins and severe fruit flavors are the initial impres-

sions of this wine. Behind the mineral, austere exterior, there is a richer, fatter core—its ripe red fruits waiting to surface. Keep for at least three years. Frederick Wild-man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $80

89 Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Pommard. This shows the richness of the vintage in its ripe

red fruits. It has weight as well as tannins, with a solid, firmly structured base of red plum fruit. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $68

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88 Louis Latour 2010 Epenots Premier Cru (Pommard). This is structured, with tannins

and dark fruits that are balanced by bright acids. The firm, dry tannins give the wine shape; it will ultimately develop into a round, rich Pinot Noir. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $90

88 Nuiton­Beaunoy 2010 Pommard. Firm, concentrated and tannic, this has a smoky char-

acter that contrasts the red plum and strawberry fruits. It is solid and chunky, needing to age over several years. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

VOLNAY

92 Joseph Faiveley 2010 Santenots Premier Cru (Volnay). A beautifully perfumed wine

from one of Volnay’s top vineyards, this delights with its aromatic red fruits, ripe tannins and balancing acids. It is still settling down and will certainly round out over the next years when its more sumptuous side will come forward. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $100

92 Olivier Leflaive 2010 Santenots Premier Cru (Volnay). For the moment, the tannins

are still firm and the generous red fruits have not yet penetrated the surface. The acidity is present, like a line of brightness that cuts through this richly tannic wine. This is a potentially opulent wine. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $90

91 Domaine Jean Monnier et Fils 2010 Vol­nay. Ripe and full, this tempers the natural

richness of Volnay with the restraint of tannins and lay-ers of wood. The red fruit flavors are given a boost by the young acidity that needs time to calm down. Age for 3–4 years. Saranty Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $43

91 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 San­tenots Premier Cru (Volnay). Firm, concen-

trated and solid, this has a tight core that’s surrounded by sweeter dark-plum fruit. This is ripe and full bodied, with a definite need for aging. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $52

91 Olivier Leflaive 2010 Clos des Angles Premier Cru (Volnay). Big and firm, this is

packed with red fruits and solid tannins. It has flavors of red berries and black fruits—the wood component still prominent. The acidity is gentle; but it does need to age for at least four years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $90

90 Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Volnay. This is a firm wine with great fruit density, with

a round, generous and velvety texture. It has a touch of wood that needs to integrate with the flavor of red plum skin. The dark tannins create a wine that will age

for several years. Terlato Wines International. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $52

90 Vincent Sauvestre 2010 Les Santenots Premier Cru (Volnay). Firm red currant and

raspberry fruits dominate this smooth wine. The tan-nins, which lie underneath, give this round Pinot Noir essential firmness. This needs to age for 2–3 years. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

89 Domaine Poulleau Père et Fils 2010 Vol­nay. Soft, round and perfumed, this has rich

red fruits that are laced with youthful acids and tannins. With its texture, it has good aging potential; give it 4–5 years. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

89 Louis Latour 2010 En Chevret Premier Cru (Volnay). Rich, round and concentrated,

this is developing fast. The acidity is already comfort-ably embedded in the ripe red-berry fruit.. Louis La-tour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $65

BEAUNE

93 Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Clos des Fèves Premier Cru (Beaune). This is dark

and wood laden, with sweet, rich fruit and a firm, dense structure. It has a full feel, and its opulence is likely to develop over the next 2–3 years. Terlato Wines Interna-tional. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $107

92 Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Clos des Mouches Premier Cru (Beaune). Opulent

and ripe, but at the same time it shows red fruits, fresh acids and a structured core. It has a wonderful, gener-ous finish that showcases the rich fruits and warm tan-nins. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $112

90 Domaine Jean Monnier et Fils 2010 Beaune Montrevenots Premier Cru

(Beaune). This wine’s juicy acidity and raspberry fla-vor are delicious and upfront. Along with all this fruit, the tannins act as support, lending structure and aging potential. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $36

89 Bouchard Aîné & Fils 2009 Cuvée Signa­ture Clos de Roi Premier Cru (Beaune).

With its layers of wood and sweet fruit, this is both well textured and rich. It’s balanced with acidity, giving the wine a tighter edge while also emphasizing the ripe fruit. Keep for a year, but this can also be consumed now. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Château Philippe­le­Hardi 2009 Clos du Roi Premier Cru (Beaune). Dense, rich and

ripe, this has some tannic structure, but it’s less salient compared to the ripe fruit, soft texture and juicy acidity.

This wine can age, although it is already showing fruiti-ness. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Château Philippe­le­Hardi 2010 Clos du Roi Premier Cru (Beaune). This is lightly

structured, showing balanced red berry fruits and round tannins. For a 2010, it is softening fast; this should be drinkable in the next six months. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

OTHER CÔTE DE BEAUNE WINES

94 Domaine Faiveley 2010 Clos des Cortons Faiveley (Corton). It’s rare in Burgundy that a

producer can add his name to a vineyard, but Faiveley’s tradition goes back at least a century. This is huge and dense; the notes of spice, sweet black plum and acidity are all comfortably balanced with the powerful tannic structure. This needs at least seven years of aging. Fred-erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $215

93 Louis Latour 2010 Château Corton Grancey (Corton). For full review see page

7. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $130

92 Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Les Verge­lesses Premier Cru (Pernand­Vergeless­

es). This has ripe red fruits and soft, integrated tan-nins, with concentration and a voluptuous exterior. This will be ready to drink soon. Terlato Wines International. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $50

92 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Côte de Beaune. For full review see page 8.

abv: 13% Price: $35

89 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Côte de Beaune­Villages. Soft and rounded, this has a raspber-

ry flavor and a fine, full feel. It has the tannic structure of the vintage, which fits into the sumptuous, cushioned texture. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24

89 Louis Latour 2010 Ile de Vergelesses Premier Cru (Pernand­Vergelesses). Soft

and rounded, this has an open, fragrant character. It has ripe flavors of strawberries and red plums, with a touch of wood and delicious, fresh acidity. Only on the finish does the structured side show through. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $35

88 Château Philippe­le­Hardi 2010 La Com­me Premier Cru (Santenay). This is chunky,

with a firm, tannic structure. The black fruits are piled on top, creating a solid, ripe wine. The weight and den-sity should allow this to age for at least three years. Sa-ranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $42

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

88 Domaine Poulleau Père et Fils 2010 Cho­rey­lès­Beaune. Ripe, soft and smoky, this

has strawberry and red plum flavors. The acidity surfac-es later, along with a light, dry texture. The wine could age for 3–4 years. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Chorey­lès­Beaune. This is built with red cherry fruit, tan-

nins and a ripe feel. Chorey-lès-Beaune is a good source for fruity reds with just the right touch of structure. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

88 Olivier Leflaive 2010 Côte de Beaune­Vil­lages. Ripe and fruity, but also structured, this

has fine acidity with a hint of wood. The main thrust of the wine is its raspberry, plum and damson fruits. The finish has a lively feel. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 André Guichot 2010 La Maladière Pre­mier Cru (Santenay). This is an attractively

structured wine, with ripe strawberry and smoky wood flavors. The fruit continues through to the soft finish, which is laced with acidity and a firm tannic core. Mar-salle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Michel Picard 2009 Le Charmois Premier Cru (Saint­Aubin). Still tannic, this is a min-

erally wine that’s driven by red currant fruit. Its acidity is also an important element. It has the potential to round out and fill out over the next 2–3 years. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

84 Domaine Poulleau Père et Fils 2010 Les Mondes Rondes (Côte de Beaune). On

the lean side, this taut and crisp red-currant-flavored wine is dominated by acidity and dry tannins. It seems to miss out on generosity. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

MERCUREY

91 Domaines Devillard 2009 Château de Chamirey Les Cinq Premier Cru (Mercu­

rey). Opulent and ripe, this is full of sweet red fruit, with tannins that have absorbed into the fruit. The wood aging acts as support to the rich texture. It is develop-ing well, but could certainly age for four years or more. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $68

90 Domaine Faiveley 2010 Clos des Myg­lands Premier Cru (Mercurey). Clos des

Myglands is a vineyard wholly owned by Faiveley. In 2010, it has produced a richly structured wine, full of ripe plum and sweet acidity that dominates the firm tan-nins. The finish is juicy, balanced by a jammy character. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $40

90 Domaines Devillard 2010 Château de Chamirey Les Cinq Premier Cru (Mercu­

rey). Made from grapes sourced from Domaines Devil-lard’s 12 acres of premier cru Mercurey vineyards, this rich, weighty wine has ripe red fruits that are layered with new wood and tannins. A structured effort that’s meant to age for five years and more. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $68

89 Château Philippe­le­Hardi 2010 Les Puil­lets Premier Cru (Mercurey). This has a

firm edge of tannins along with dense red fruits. It’s structured and balanced, with the texture and acidity that suggest its aging potential. Give this 3–4 years. Sa-ranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $34

88 Domaine Faiveley 2010 Mercurey. With its juicy, strawberry-like acidity, smoky charac-

ter and firm tannins, this is already well developed and delicious. The finish brings out crispness and fragrance. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

87 L. Tramier et Fils 2010 Château Mi­Pont (Mercurey). From Tramier’s own vineyards,

this is a soft, fleshy wine with a light touch. The tan-nins are already gentle and the red berry fruits are high-lighted by crisp acidity. For short-term aging only. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

87 Vignerons de Buxy 2010 Buissonnier (Mercurey). Fruity and tannic, this has a dry

character that dominates the red fruit underneath. It’s full bodied, with a nervy edge of acidity and a smoky flavor that comes from having been aged in wood. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

86 Château Philippe­le­Hardi 2010 La Brig­adière Vieilles Vignes (Mercurey). Soft

and crisp, this is light in texture and very fragrant. It boasts intense strawberry flavors, with already well-in-tegrated tannins and a smooth, easy finish. Saranty Im-ports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24

OTHER CÔTE CHALONNAISE WINES

87 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Rully. Taut, tannic and nervy, this has red currant fruit that gives a

crisp sensation to this tight, precise wine. Give it a year to soften. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $26

85 Vignerons de Buxy 2010 Buissonnier (Côte Chalonnaise). This is light and fruity,

with its red fruit upfront. The tannins are balanced, in keeping with the wine’s perfumed nature. The youthful acidity on the finish is likely to soften out in a year. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

BOURGOGNE

87 Joseph Drouhin 2010 La Forêt Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). Attractively ripe, this has fruity

red-berry flavors along with acidity and soft tannins. This is ready to drink now. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

87 Nuiton­Beaunoy 2010 Réserve Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). This is warm and round, with

red fruit flavors that are attractively displayed against a backdrop of soft tannins. The acidity lends crispness, highlighting the ripe fruit on the finish. Opici Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

86 Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Le Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). This has soft red fruits along

with a firm structure of tannins and acids. Shapely and balanced, this is ready to drink now. Terlato Wines In-ternational. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $22

86 Nicolas Potel 2010 Pinot Noir (Bour­gogne). Light and fruity, this has red fruit fla-

vors that are tempered with soft, perfumed tannins and balancing acidity. Some sweetness shows through to-ward the finish. Ready to drink now. Wines Unlimited, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 Michel Picard 2009 Pinot Noir (Bour­gogne). This wine balances its acidity, light

texture and softness with ripe red fruits. It has a touch of bitterness, although this is enveloped by the ripe fruit of the vintage. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

83 André Guichot 2009 Pinot Noir (Bour­gogne). Surprisingly light for the vintage, this

has a wood note and intense acidity, with a crisp, almost green, raspberry flavor. The finish is juicy. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

83 L. Tramier et Fils 2010 La Minée Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). This is a lean, acid-driven

wine, without much in the way of generous fruit. It has a green strawberry note, with a light sense of structure and a minerally finish. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

VENETO

SOAVE CLASSICO

90 Suavia 2008 Le Rive (Soave Classico). For full review see page 10.

abv: 13.5% Price: $45

88 Cantina del Castello 2011 Castello (Soave Classico). This blend of Gargane-

ga and 10% Trebbiano di Soave shows a bright, lumi-nous straw color, fresh aromas of citrus, stone fruit and blanched almond. It delivers a blast of lively tonic fresh-ness on the finish. Petit Pois. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

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87 Tedeschi 2011 Capitel Tenda (Soave Classico). Produced by one of Valpolicella’s

best producers of Amarone, this offers a crisp citrus aroma followed by notes of peach, white almond and pear. It is crisp, compact and medium in length. Drey-fus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

87 Tommasi 2011 Le Volpare (Soave Clas­sico). Refreshing and bright, this would pair

with a range of Mediterranean foods, from tomato brus-chetta to fried zucchini flowers. It offers a steady flow of citrus, pear and stone fruit flavors. Vintus LLC. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $13

SPARKLING WINES

86 Canella NV Rosé Brut (Veneto). Made us-ing the fragrant Pinot Nero grape, this cheer-

ful rosé sparkler shows a pretty pale-pink color, with delicate aromas of wild berry, cranberry and fresh rasp-berry. It shows bright, bubbling and persistent perlage. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $15

86 Domenico Cavazza NV Prosecco. Bubbly and bright, this has cheerful aromas of citrus,

white almond and wild flower. Clean, tonic and refresh-ing overall, this would make for a great afternoon sipper. Casa Torelli . —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

85 Lamberti NV Rosé (Veneto). A refreshing rosé sparkler that would pair with smoked salm-

on or fried calamari rings, this is tonic and bright, of-fering crisp acidity and tonic effervescence. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

AMARONE CLASSICO

96 Masi 2003 Mazzano (Amarone della Val­policella Classico). This has enormous rich-

ness and intensity, with penetrating aromas of leather, tobacco, spice, dark fruit and dark chocolate. On the palate, it’s inky, rich and supersmooth. This is one of the best Italian wines ever made from the difficult 2003 vintage. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $175

95 Le Salette 2008 Pergole Vece (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). For full review

see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 16% Price: $132

95 Zenato 2006 Sergio Zenato Riserva (Am­arone della Valpolicella Classico). This

is a real beauty, with huge intensity and loads of deep chocolate fudge, black cherry, cola, barbecue and black licorice flavors. It manages contrasting tones of sweet versus savory that pleasure the tastebuds. The palate is rich, smooth and superconcentrated. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $125

94 Cesari 2006 Il Bosco (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). The Cesari family

has perfected its formula for achieving pure pleasure in liquid form. This is superstar Amarone, with loads of chewy, ripe fruit, decadent dark chocolate, leather, moist pipe tobacco and candied raspberry flavors. Even with all of the richness, extraction and deliciousness, this is an elegant wine. Drink after 2018. Opici Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $90

94 Quintarelli 2003 Amarone della Valpoli­cella Classico. If there is one quality that dis-

tinguishes the wines of the late Giuseppe Quintarelli, it is complexity. Unlike any other producer in the Ama-rone production area, this legendary artisan magically pulls out aromas of dried sage, Indian spice, crushed white pepper and delicate forest berry. On the palate, the wine is bright, crisp and intense, but never heavy or syrupy. Italy lost one of its greatest winemakers when Quintarelli passed away in early 2012. Robert Chadder-don Selections. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $NA

94 Speri 2008 Vigneto Monte Sant’Urbano (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico).

For full review see page 6. Cellar Selection. abv: 15% Price: $80

94 Zymè 2001 La Mattonara Riserva (Ama­rone della Valpolicella Classico). This has

all of the makings of a cult classic to come. It has pedi-gree—one of the founding winery partners is linked to the Quintarelli legacy—quality, elegance and a long aging future ahead. Dark, dense and thickly extracted, this is redolent of sweet tobacco, savory spice, cola, teri-yaki sauce, black fruit and currant. The finish is long and streamlined, showing a touch of heat and muscle. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $350

93 Begali 2007 Monte Ca’ Bianca (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This shows

enormous personality and distinctive aromas of rose-mary, bay leaf, sweet cherry, prune, spice, cola and to-bacco. Made in a large, bold style, it delivers plush lay-ers of sweetness and softness, with a touch of heat on the finish. Siema LLC. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $58

93 Bertani 2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. For full review see page 6.

abv: 14.5% Price: $110

93 Brunelli 2007 Campo Inferi Riserva (Am­arone della Valpolicella Classico). Ripe

plum, maraschino, moist tobacco, Indian spice and used leather are components of the complex bouquet. It shows great intensity and power; the mouthfeel is smooth, rich and opulent. Try pairing it with rib-eye steaks and baked black beans. ID Beverage Group. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $60

93 Corte Aleardi 2006 Amarone della Val­policella Classico. Aged for 48 months in

French oak, this is chewy and rich, with thick layers of red fruit, spice, leather, chocolate and cola. It’s a mod-ern rendition, with a soft, velvety mouthfeel and end notes of toasted vanilla and expresso bean. Its thick ex-traction and high alcohol make this a perfect wine for a snowy winter night. RC Importers. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $100

93 Luigi Righetti 2006 G&G (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). For full review see

page 7. Cellar Selection. abv: 15% Price: $160

93 Masi 2007 Costasera Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Sometimes

you need a little morsel of deliciousness to remind you of a place or an important experience. This is reminis-cent of the rich offerings of the Veneto. A classic rendi-tion of Amarone, it’s tightly loaded with notes of choco-late, spice, tobacco and ripe fruit intensity. The finish is long and velvety, with a touch of sweetness and a note of barbecue spice. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $95

93 Nicolis 2006 Ambrosan (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This is a modern,

plump rendition of Amarone, with soft lines and chewy aromas of black cherry, chocolate fudge, cinnamon and blackberry preserves that are immediate and upfront. The rich, velvety texture make this a great candidate for pairing with wintery cheese fondue. Vignaioli. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $88

93 San Rustico 2006 Gaso (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This shows beautiful-

ly elegant aromas of spice, black pepper, crushed gran-ite, dried spice and fresh forest berry. There is are rec-ognizable notes of jammy red fruit and marmalade, but the bouquet remains tightly pulled together and bal-anced nonetheless. It imparts a crisp, clean sensation on the palate, with a long, polished finish. John Given Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $61

93 Zenato 2007 Amarone della Valpolicel­la Classico. Full, gorgeous and bright, this

shows restraint and elegance, with lovely aromas of sweet cherry, blackberry pie, leather, tar and black lic-orice. In keeping with Valpolicella tradition, there is a touch of sweetness on the palate, but the quality of the fruit is clean and polished. Hold for 10 years or more. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $70

92 Allegrini 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. One of the founding members of the

prestigious Amarone Families association who focus on safeguarding the unique winemaking traditions of Val-policella, Allegrini sets the standard for a new genera-tion of vintners. This opens with sweet tones of Indian spice, ripe fruit and tobacco. The mouthfeel is exceed-ingly rich, long lasting and intense. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $85

92 Begali 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Begali’s wines really do offer their

own unique personality and style. This wine is embel-

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

lished by slightly green aromas of bay leaf and rosemary oil that add brightness and buoyancy. The flavors are complex, long lasting and include notes of soft spice, ripe fruit and sweet tobacco. Siema LLC. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $45

92 Brunelli 2007 Campo del Tìtari Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico).

A small percentage of Sangiovese is added to this tra-ditional Amarone blend, giving it balance and acidity. The bouquet is redolent of oak spice, vanilla, barbecue spice, cherry, soy sauce, leather and tobacco. Both the complexity and the intensity reach impressive levels. On the palate, it tastes dry and richly textured. ID Beverage Group. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $65

92 Castellani Michele & Figli 2008 Colle Christi Collezione Ca’ del Pipa (Amarone

della Valpolicella Classico). This stands out for its overall richness and generosity. It reveals layers of jam-my fruit, blackberry, spice, teriyaki sauce, ginger and dried herb. There’s a cheerful touch of sweetness that is buffered by the wine’s natural thickness and intensity. Bedford International. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $52

92 Masi 2006 Serego Alighieri Vaio Armaron (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico).

This shows a unique elegance that comes in the form of dusty, linear tones of old spice and crushed granite, giving texture to the fruit and toasted nut aromas. It is also easier to drink than other Amarone wines thanks to its polished, fine nature of its tannins. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $75

92 Montecariano 2007 Amarone della Val­policella Classico. This standout Amarone

boasts elegant mineral tones of wet river stone and crushed granite, which are followed by softer layers of ripe fruit and spice. There’s a savory note of soy sauce and cured meat, with a smoky barbecue overtone. Let this wine age 10 years or more. Ribevi Wine Int. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $90

92 Novaia 2008 Corte Vaona (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). A distinctive expres-

sion from Valpolicella, this shows pretty herb notes of oregano and dried mint, with licorice and spice accents. There are also softer tones of coffee, leather and juicy black cherry. Overall, this is elegant, nuanced and pow-erful. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $50

92 Novaia 2007 Riserva Vigneto Le Balze (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico).

This special vineyard-designate delivers savory notes of cured meat, smoked bacon, barbecued herbs and can-died berries. The intensity and overall complexity is im-pressive, and so is the richness and persistency of the mouthfeel. It ends with a touch of crispness and a bitter cherry accent. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $75

92 Remo Farina 2007 Monte Fante Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico).

Remo Farina makes a style of Amarone that will appeal to those who are true fans of this distinctive category of Italian reds. This is big, bold and not bashful by any stretch. It offers masculine tones of warm leather, cured meat, smoked bacon, ripe fruit and blackberry pre-serves. The finish is tightly loaded with a fresh tobacco flavor. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $85

92 Tedeschi 2007 Capitel Monte Olmi (Ama­rone della Valpolicella Classico). For full

review see page 8. Cellar Selection. abv: 16% Price: $95

92 Tommasi 2008 Amarone della Valpoli­cella Classico. This expression is beautifully

integrated and balanced, with notes of forest fruit and cassis that are set against touches of tar, licorice, brown sugar and cola. The lush and opulent finish delivers an impressive load of dark chocolate and exotic spice. Vin-tus LLC. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $75

92 Villa Monteleone 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Elegant lines distin-

guish this wine, making it a fantastic choice with almost any hearty meat dish. Notes of chocolate, espresso, cherry and sweet, toasted vanilla characterize the bou-quet, giving this Amarone a modern, forward feel. The finish is long, luscious and driven by a melted chocolate flavor. Wirtz Beverage. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $48

92 Zenato 2008 Amarone della Valpolicel­la Classico. Zenato is a reliable producer of

quality Amarone, producing wines that always show personality and intensity. This delivers bold fruit and background tones of polished leather and dry tobacco. The mouthful is very bold and thick, boasting a playful touch of sweet spice. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $30

91 Antolini 2008 Ca’ Coato (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This delivers enor-

mous aromatic intensity that rises from the glass in a determined and immediate manner. The nose is awash in aromas of ripe fruit, leather, tobacco, exotic spice and black pepper. The soft, chewy mouthfeel is capped by a strong blast of roasted coffee bean. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $70

91 Antolini 2008 Morópio (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Dark and savory, this

opens with cured meat, smoked bacon, teriyaki, cherry and cola aromas. The palate is lush and velvety, with ac-cents of candied fruit, leather and black pepper. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $60

91 Brunelli 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Dark and brawny, this opens with

almost impenetrable concentration and bold aromas of jammy fruit, blackberry, espresso, cedar and moist to-bacco. It has a smooth, rich texture, with lively high-

lights of teriyaki, ginger and cola. ID Beverage Group. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $34

91 Cesari 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Packaged in an elegantly frosted

bottle, this brawny wine deliver the goods. It shows in-tensity, persistency and is tightly packed with luscious aromas of black cherry, leather, tobacco and black ol-ive. The tannins are velvety and rich without being over-done. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $55

91 Corteforte 2005 Terre di San Zeno (Ama­rone della Valpolicella Classico). Notes of

eucalyptus, dried rosemary, humus, licorice, black olive and dark berry give this a unique personality. It glides smoothly over the palate thanks to its supple, velvety tannins, and it finishes with an additional bright spot of tangy green herb. The Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $55

91 Eleva 2005 Piovesole (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This boasts tiny por-

tions of Teroldego, Merlot and Croatina that give the wine a soft, lush disposition. Some 42 months of oak aging also add to the palate’s overall silkiness. Flavors of chocolate, cherry, plum, tar, resin and licorice are all recognizable. Vos Vinum Importing Ltd. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $50

91 Fabiano 2005 I Fondatori Riserva (Ama­rone della Valpolicella Classico). Big and

bold, this has noticeable alcohol and loads of choco-late, espresso and jammy black-fruit flavors. The overall muscle and brawn of the mouthfeel give balance to the heat and intensity. Pair this with aged cheese or grilled steak. Admiral Imports. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $80

91 Le Salette 2008 La Marega (Amarone del­la Valpolicella Classico). Dark and brood-

ing, this has inky concentration, power and determina-tion. The nose is alive with tones of blackberry, mara-schino, leather, tobacco and rusty soil. The mouthfeel is thick and penetrating. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $68

91 Masi 2008 Costasera (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This is a landmark

Amarone that has often acted as the category’s biggest ambassador abroad. It bursts open with aromas of dark berry, spice, leather and tobacco, and it is both generous and long-lasting on the palate. Folio Fine Wine Part-ners. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $60

91 Montresor 2008 Capitel della Crosara (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). A

historic name in Valpolicella, Montresor is known for producing balanced, elegant expressions of Amarone. This provides slightly darker, riper aromas of black fruit, prune, dried currant and exotic spice. Total Wine & More. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $57

91 Nicolis 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. This producer does a fantastic job of

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presenting quality air-dried fruit without the jamminess and heaviness that is sometimes encountered. Aged for 30 months in large oak casks, this is tight, structured and elegant. Vignaioli. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $60

91 Pietro Zardini 2005 Leone Zardini (Ama­rone della Valpolicella Classico). Hot fruit

and syrupy cherry or blackberry aromas open the bou-quet of this brawny Amarone (that clocks in at 16% al-cohol). The mouthfeel is exceedingly round and supple and the wine ends with a jammy note of sweet fruit. Leone Zardini will appeal to those who like a bold style. J.A.O. Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $60

91 Recchia 2005 Ca’ Bertoldi (Amarone del­la Valpolicella Classico). On the dark and

savory side, this opens with blackberry, prune, chocolate and moist tobacco aromas. It offers ethereal notes of dried herb, cola and licorice that give the wine a lighter, more buoyant personality. Shaw-Ross International Im-porters. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $37

91 Rubinelli Vajol 2008 Amarone della Val­policella Classico. Powerful and muscu-

lar, this would pair with succulent red meat or piquant cheese. The mouthfeel is velvety and supple, and the bouquet is redolent of cooked berry, prune, dried bay leaf, humus, toasted coffee bean and licorice. Ambrosia Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $70

91 Santa Sofia 2007 Amarone della Valpoli­cella Classico. This has clean, linear aromas

of fruit and spice that are tied together in one elegant package. The mouthfeel is similarly composed, with power and intensity that is elegant and never exagger-ated or too heavy. Laird & Company. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $65

91 Sartori 2007 Corte Brà (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This delivers a cheer-

ful aromatic embroidery of cherry, cassis, toasted al-mond, Indian spice, leather and bitter chocolate. The mouthfeel is another selling point thanks to its smooth-ness and persistency. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $52

91 Terre di Leone 2006 Amarone della Val­policella Classico. Notes of sweet cherry,

prune, blackberry and cinnamon make an immediate first impression. As the wine evolves in the glass, this delivers slow pulses of cured meat, bacon and crushed white pepper. The texture is soft, smooth and silky. Il Pioppo. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $88

91 Venturini Massimino 2007 Campomasua (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico).

Tight and compact, this delivers tangy, spicy intensity that’s packed around a solid core of red fruit. The mid-palate is driven by sensations of cherry, cassis and black-berry, and the finish shows signs of smoky barbecue and roasted chestnut. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $55

91 Villa Spinosa 2001 Guglielmi di Jago (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico).

Beautifully aged, this shows a dusty, ripe quality. The bouquet is rounded out by notes of leather, resin, mo-lasses, tobacco, dried ginger, cola and licorice. There’s a tight firmness to the tannins, which have gracefully carried this wine forward over the years. Tradizione Im-ports. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $95

90 Aldegheri 2007 Amarone della Valpoli­cella Classico. Nicely balanced, focused and

hearty, this offers a wide spectrum of ripe fruit and dark spice aromas. The finish is soft and supple, with a tangy note of barbecue smoke that leaves a lasting impression. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $53

90 Aldegheri 2007 Barricato (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This spent two years

maturing in large oak casks and one year in barriques. Such an aging regimen has imparted deep aromas of spice, tobacco, toasted almond, chocolate and tobacco that surround lively notes of blackberry and ripe cherry. Terry Seitz. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $65

90 Arduini 2008 Amarone della Valpolicel­la Classico. Lavish and opulent, this has ripe

fruit and spice notes that are followed by tangy green peppercorn and rosemary accents. It shows a succu-lent spot of sweetness that drives the long and generous mouthfeel. Age this for 10 years, or drink it now. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $55

90 Bottega 2006 Il Vino Prêt­a­Porter Riser­va (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico).

With the faux leather label and over-the-top carrying case, this Amarone emphasizes its packaging. The wine inside is very appealing, showing bright fruit and cherry notes that are enhanced by sweet tobacco and spice ac-cents. The finish is long and silky. Palm Bay Interna-tional. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $150

90 Buglioni 2007 L’Amarone (Amarone del­la Valpolicella Classico). This meaty, mas-

culine expression has an inky, dark appearance, with chewy tones of blackberry jam, toasted espresso bean and chocolate fudge. Its high alcohol is supported by the rich density of the syrupy texture. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. abv: 17% Price: $65

90 Castellani Michele & Figli 2008 Cinque Stelle Collezione Ca’ del Pipa (Ama­

rone della Valpolicella Classico). Give this wine a few more years in the cellar before popping the cork. The tannins are slightly astringent, and the palate is thickly layered with ripe fruit, red apple, tobacco and moist earth notes. There’s depth and consistency in the mouth, along with a playful touch of sweetness. Bedford International. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $75

90 Cecilia Beretta 2007 Terre di Cariano (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). A

sub brand of the historic Pasqua winery, this is an el-egant expression of Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara, Cro-atina and Oseleta—Valpolicella’s principal indigenous red grapes. This is dark and chewy, with bright berry notes and loads of tangy spice. Pasqua U.S.A LLC. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $60

90 Corte San Benedetto 2007 Amarone del­la Valpolicella Classico. Leg of lamb with

a rosemary-garlic marinade and white beans would pair nicely with this darkly concentrated wine. This is a thick, savory expression that offers loads of ripe fruit and prune flavors, with spicy notes of teriyaki and hick-ory smoke. Global Wine Imports LLC. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $42

90 Domìni Veneti 2005 Vigneti di Jago (Ama­rone della Valpolicella Classico). For full

review see page 10.abv: 16.5% Price: $50

90 Fabiano 2008 Amarone della Valpolicel­la Classico. Steady and focused, this has tight

aromas of blackberry and spice that open and evolve the longer the wine stays in the glass. There’s a touch of sweet strawberry on the finish. Admiral Imports. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $50

90 Manara 2007 Postera (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Rich and savory, this

is loaded with concentration and power. The aromas in-clude ripe blackberry, creamy cinnamon bun, Spanish cedar, leather and barbecued meat. The finish is soft, chewy and succulent. Emporium Nostrum. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $57

90 Monte del Frá 2008 Tenuta Lena di Mez­zo (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico).

This dark, brawny expression doles out lavish aromas of smoked bacon, black olive, molasses, maple syrup and rich blackberry preserves. It’s spicy and rich, but also tart and crisp. Those contrasting elements give it a sweet and sour feeling. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $50

90 Montresor 2008 Giacomo Montresor (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico).

This dishes out out generous servings of ripe berry fruit and smoked hickory sauce. It’s chewy, richly concen-trated and slightly sweet, with lively endnotes of jammy fruit and maraschino. Total Wine & More. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $50

90 Remo Farina 2008 Amarone della Valpo­licella Classico. There’s a bright note of wild

berry, orange peel and red apple at the very start that fades away quickly to reveal savory tones of cured meat, leather and coffee grounds. It’s compact and powerful, but not over the top. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $50

90 San Rustico 2007 Amarone della Valpo­licella Classico. San Rustico consistently

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

makes some of the best Amarone available in the Unit-ed States market. This shows fine qualities of blackber-ry, chocolate and tobacco, and a polished, silky mouth-feel. John Given Wines. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $54

90 Secondo Marco 2007 Amarone della Val­policella Classico. What sets this wine apart

are the cooling aromas of chopped mint and white lico-rice. It delivers tangy layers of black olive, resin, tar, to-bacco leaf and sweet cinnamon stick. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $NA

90 Stefano Accordini 2008 Acinatico (Ama­rone della Valpolicella Classico). The oak

is very present, so give this a few more years of cellar aging for it to integrate. Chocolate, Christmas spices, leather, toasted almonds and coffee grounds make a grand first impression. As the wine evolves in the glass, cherry and black currant aromas surface. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $30

90 Tinazzi 2008 Tenuta Valleselle Aurum (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico).

Packaged in an extremely heavy bottle, this opulent Amarone delivers knockout aromas of toasted almond, hickory smoke, pipe tobacco and spice. Fruit flavors of plum, prune and blackberry are followed by a much-needed touch of acidity that keeps the palate refreshed. Opera Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $25

90 Zeni 2007 Barriques (Amarone della Val­policella Classico). Linear, elegant and tight,

this has defined aromas of wild berry, crushed stone, clove, licorice and road pavement. The palate shows re-freshing intensity thanks to its power, concentration and structure. Bacchus Imports, Inc. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $60

89 Antica Corte 2009 Amarone della Valpo­licella Classico. Candied fruit, prune and

apricot notes open the bouquet of this deep, dark wine. The palate picks up speed thanks to the savory tones of cured meat and barbecue smoke. A much-needed point of acidity on the finish pulls the wine nicely together. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $47

89 Bolla 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. This offers vibrant aromas of red

cherry, blackberry, leather, spice and cigar box. There are dark touches of resin and brown sugar that are fol-lowed by notes of smoked bacon and cured meat. This is dark, masculine and concentrated. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $45

89 Cantina di Negrar 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. For full review see

page 10. abv: 15.5% Price: $35

89 Cantine Lenotti di Lenotti 2007 Di Carlo (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico).

Despite its high alcohol, this is surprisingly focused. One might think that the ripe fruit overtones would ren-

der a muddled bouquet, but instead the wine remains tight with fresh acidity and flavors of bitter almond and wild berry. BelVino LLC. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $80

89 Degani 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Of Degani’s two Amarone wines,

this one offers a leaner consistency and brighter aro-mas of wild berry, white cherry, dried rose petal, cola and apple cider. It’s a clean, polished expression, with freshness on the finish. Michael R. Downey Selections. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $48

89 Degani 2009 La Rosta (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This shows sweet,

plush fruit aromas, with background tones of leather and tobacco. By no means is this wine over the top, in fact, it shows a firm but elegant quality throughout. Mi-chael R. Downey Selections. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $56

89 Giuseppe Campagnola 2008 Caterina Zardini Riserva (Amarone della Valpoli­

cella Classico). Compared to past vintages, this edi-tion of Caterina Zardini Riserva shows slightly pungent aromas of red apple, plum, cherry and cassis. The bright fruit gives the wine support and endurance, which is further reinforced by the soft, velvety mouthfeel Supe-rior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $30

89 Il Roverone 2007 Amarone della Valpo­licella Classico. If you like power, this is the

wine you want. The heat from the alcohol is definitely noticeable, but it’s also nicely balanced by the thick ex-traction, soft texture and ripe berry flavors. High alco-hol is a common result of the appassimento process (the air-drying of grapes) used to make this wine. Specialty Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $55

89 La Dama 2007 Amarone della Valpolicel­la Classico. This embodies a bold, opulent

and modern style that will appeal to those who enjoy wines with chocolate, spice and ripe fruit flavors. It’s sticky and soft on the finish, with notes of sweet fruit and mocha. Vera Food and Wine. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $40

89 Le Bertarole 2008 Podere Le Marognole (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico).

Modern and oak driven, this has aromas of toasted al-mond, chocolate, tobacco and crushed clove. The fruit nuances tend to be on the dark and jammy side. It gains focus on the palate thanks to its firm structure and bright cola and licorice endnotes. Vinarium Inc. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

89 Vigneti Villabella 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. This delivers textbook

aromas of candied berry, tobacco, cured meat, teriyaki, cinnamon and Spanish cedar. There’s a touch of heat on the finish that is cushioned by the wine’s rich density and velvety mouthfeel. Wine Wave. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $50

89 Zeni 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Cheerful and youthful, this opens

with a sweet bouquet of wild berry, red rose, freshly grated cinnamon and clove. It’s hearty and dense, but it delivers flavors that are refreshingly clear. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $40

88 Antica Corte 2007 Amarone della Valpo­licella Classico. This opens with sweet tones

of milk chocolate, blackberry, exotic spice, Spanish ce-dar and black pepper. There’s heat and power on the finish, but its overall generosity and density balances ev-erything out nicely. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

88 Carlo Boscaini 2008 San Giorgio (Ama­rone della Valpolicella Classico). Chewy

and rich, this has opulent tones of ripe fruit, chocolate fudge, Indian spice, maple syrup and dark honey, with a pungent point of dried apple or lemon zest in the back-ground. The finish is extracted and dense, showing a playful touch of sweetness. Tuscany Import. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $33

88 Corte Archi 2008 Gli Archi (Amarone del­la Valpolicella Classico). Produced by vint-

ner Fernando Campagnola, this shows a touch of apple skin as well as aromas of raspberry, currant and sweet tobacco. The finish is sweet and succulent, with a hint of candied almond on the close. International Cellars. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $50

88 Giuseppe Lonardi 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Extremely thick, soft

and extracted, this delivers flavors of ripe fruit, cinna-mon stick, honey, barbecue sauce, cured meat and dried apple skin. Savory tones of leather and button mush-room show up later. Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $49

88 Le Bertarole 2008 Podere Cariano (Am­arone della Valpolicella Classico). Com-

pared to the last vintage, which was riper and chewier, this offers a streamlined and focused mouthfeel, with notes of berry fruit and dark spice. Lean and bright, it closes with a thorny, bramble-like flavor. Vinarium Inc. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Le Ragose 2005 Amarone della Valpoli­cella Classico. This bold offering shows jam-

my fruit aromas of blackberry pie and cherry marma-lade, followed by a chewy spice tone. The mouthfeel is soft, savory and sweet all at once. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $55

88 Manara 2008 Corte Manara (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Bright and

chewy, this has slightly muddled aromas of ripe fruit, cured meat, cola and tobacco. It’s very soft and lush, with a long, succulent finish. Emporium Nostrum. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $50

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88 Monteci 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. With 24 months of careful oak aging

under its belt, this bold Amarone does not hold back. The intense bouquet shows tones of bitter chocolate, ripe cherry and exotic spice. There’s a touch of soda on the palate, with clove and cinnamon endnotes. La Ven-demmia. —M.L. abv: 17% Price: $60

88 Monteci 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Wine doesn’t get much bigger than

this. Bold and opulent, with a whopping 17% alcohol, this over-the-top bottling is aged in oak for two years and delivers masculine, chewy aromas of blackberry jam and Indian spice. Pair it with wedges of aged pecorino cheese. Holiday Beverage. —M.L. abv: 17% Price: $80

88 Scriani 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Very plump, chewy and bold, this

masculine wine shows a cheerful and bright side thanks to its ripe fruit aromas of blackberry, boysenberry and black cherry. Careful oak aging has produced strong Indian spice and barbecue tones. CWS Wines Ltd. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $35

87 Monteci 2005 Costa delle Corone (Ama­rone della Valpolicella Classico). Loaded

with blackberry preserves and cherry jam flavors, this chewy Amarone delivers a plump, sun-drenched per-sonality, with a savory touch of cured meat in the back-ground. The texture is rich, slightly granular and gritty. Holiday Beverage. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $NA

87 Vaona 2009 Paverno (Amarone della Val­policella Classico). Lean and streamlined,

this has bright aromas of dried rosemary, currant, cassis and spice. There’s isn’t too much pulpy fruit or extrac-tion, but the acidity is refreshening and bright. Premi-um Brands. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $35

87 Villa Spinosa 2006 Anteprima (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This is packed

tightly with candied fruit, cassis, tar, licorice and dark caramel notes. It shows its age and probably should be consumed within the next year or two. The palate offers a clean, polished feel. Tradizione Imports. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $55

AMARONE VALPANTENA

90 Bertani 2009 Villa Arvedi (Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena). For full review see

page 9.abv: 15.5% Price: $55

90 Tezza 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena. Notes of clove, toasted nut and

spicy, juniper-infused bresaola open the bouquet of this hearty effort. It sports a bright, polished, savory mouth-feel, with a distant touch of sweetness. Solstars Inc. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $50

AMARONE

95 Dal Forno Romano 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella. For full review see page 3. Cel-

lar Selection. abv: 16.5% Price: $530

94 Aldegheri 1995 Amarone della Valpoli­cella. Aldegheri, one of the most important

producers in Valpolicella, has released a 17-year-old wine that has spent eight years in large oak casks and the rest in bottle. This fascinating expression offers a glimpse of Amarone history, but does so with elegance and grace. With the fruity sweetness long gone, this now boasts a tight, linear mineral note and dusty aromas of candied fruit, licorice, cola and smoke. Terry Seitz. Cel-lar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $220

94 Roccolo Grassi 2008 Amarone della Val­policella. Roccolo Grassi’s wines are distin-

guished by there elegance—without diminishing inten-sity—which is rare to find in Amarone. This shows loads of chocolate and spice flavors, with background tones of blackberry and currant. The tannins are still edgy, so give it 10 more years in a cellar. Artisan Wines, Inc. Cel-lar Selection. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $100

93 Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2007 Campo dei Gi­gli (Amarone della Valpolicella). Expres-

sive, determined and masculine, this has intense notes of espresso bean, cinnamon, sweet fruit and toasted oak. Give it a few more years to soften and evolve in a cellar. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $70

92 Corte Sant’ Alda 2008 Amarone della Val­policella. This boats balanced structure, densi-

ty and alcohol, with pretty aromatic renderings of cher-ry and spice. It’s not too thick and chewy, but rather pol-ished. It would pair nicely with breaded Milanese veal chops. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $124

92 Musella 2007 Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella). This delivers inky dark, brood-

ing aromas of black fruit, dark spice, molasses, resin, tar and cured meat. The mouthfeel is soft and chewy, with a sticky mocha flavor and a spicy endnote of barbecue spice. Moonlight Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $58

92 Prà 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella. El-egant and austere, this opens with thick layers of

chocolate fudge, toasted espresso bean, Christmas spice and overripe berry fruit. It boasts huge flavor intensity and big alcohol. This is a bold Amarone that’s perfect for long weekends at a ski lodge or cozy nights at home.. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $NA

92 Tenuta Chiccheri 2007 Vigneto di Campo delle Strie (Amarone della Valpolicella).

The toasted oak aromas are still evident on the nose, so give this a few more years to unwind before opening. With patience, you’ll be rewarded with tones of bright

fruit, spice, licorice, molasses, brown sugar and tobacco. There’s a hint of red apple on the finish, rendering it fresh and zesty. David Vincent Selection. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $70

92 Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2008 Selezione An­tonio Castagnedi (Amarone della Valpoli­

cella). This offers composure: a feeling of balance, in-tensity, harmony and rich density. The bouquet yields pretty tones of bold blueberry, smooth chocolate, teri-yaki, cola, dried ginger and sweet pipe tobacco. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $45

92 Trabucchi d’Illasi 2004 Riserva Cent’Anni (Amarone della Valpolicella). Showing ex-

treme elegance and finesse, this has notes of wild straw-berry, cassis, Indian spice, cedar, molasses, licorice and even a touch of crushed granite. The mouthfeel is plush, rich and polished. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $120

91 Latium di Morini 2008 Campo Leòn (Am­arone della Valpolicella). This doles out

multiple layers of cinnamon, red cherry, vanilla, black-berry, espresso and tobacco flavors. It’s modern, chewy and bright, with slightly sweet flavors that would pair with pork and roasted fennel or steak with a creamy mushroom sauce. Jan D’Amore Wines. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $54

90 Alpha Zeta 2006 Amarone della Valpo­licella. Elegant and initially timid, this opens

slowly to reveal notes of cinnamon bun, baked cherry, blackberry pie and chopped rosemary. The close is spicy and bright, showing structure and power. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $NA

90 Ca’ Rugate 2008 Amarone della Valpoli­cella. On the dry side, this savory wine is dark

and inky, but without the chewy richness that character-izes many wines of the region. It puts forth black pep-per, barbecue, leather, tobacco and blackberry flavors. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

90 San Cassiano 2006 Amarone della Val­policella. Powerful, thick and concentrated,

this has plush aromas of cinnamon stick, crushed clove, toasted nut and cracked black pepper. The fruit ele-ment appears on the palate, aided by the wine’s velvety softness. Quigley Fine Wines. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $60

90 Tedeschi 2008 Amarone della Valpolicel­la. Veins of sweet cinnamon and chocolate run

through the body of this thick, concentrated wine. Ex-ceedingly soft and supple, it has penetrating endnotes of cherry preserves, blackberry pie and Middle Eastern spice. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $50

90 Venturini Massimino 2007 Amarone del­la Valpolicella. Nothing is out of place in this

wine: It’s intense, but it’s not too strong, and the bou-

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

quet shows a balance of sweet fruit and savory spice aro-mas. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $48

89 Cantina Sociale della Valpantena 2008 Torre del Falasco (Amarone della Valpo­

licella). This offers a glimpse onto Amarone tradition and heritage. Rather offering modern tones of spice and chocolate, this has ethereal aromas of wild berry, cassis, licorice, cola and dried apple skin. Bight acidity brings up the finish. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $40

89 Cavalchina 2008 Torre d’Orti Marcellise (Amarone della Valpolicella). A wine with

pronounced personality, this bold offering delivers tex-tured, almost gritty tannins, with lush noes of sweet fruit, candied raspberry, black cherry, nutmeg, clove, chocolate and toasted almond. The palate bears spicy flavors of smoked bacon and beef jerky. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $NA

89 Domenico Fraccaroli 2007 Grotta del Ninfeo (Amarone della Valpolicella). Mas-

culine and brawny, this is tightly packed with bold aro-mas of cured meat, tobacco, blackberry jam and toasted oak. It’s thickly extracted and modern, with a luscious, sweet, plush finish. One Vine Wines. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $57

89 Gino Fasoli 2007 Alteo (Amarone della Valpolicella). The 17.5% alcohol is a bit much,

but the burning effect is dampened by the mouthfeel’s extraordinary thickness and richness. It’s big and bold, with intense aromas of toasted nut, vanilla, chocolate fudge, blackberry jam and exotic spice. Chartrand Im-ports. —M.L. abv: 17.5% Price: $99

89 Musella 2008 Amarone della Valpolicel­la. The bouquet offers a wide array of aromatic

details that still need time to integrate. Notes of spice, black fruit, cola, ginger, licorice and sweet chewing to-bacco are all recognizable. A pungent note of dried ap-ple skin makes for a lively finish. Moonlight Wine Com-pany. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $47

89 Zanoni 2007 Zovo (Amarone della Valpo­licella). On the bold and powerful side, this

deals lush flavors of dark chocolate, chewy cherry, leath-er, tobacco and barbecue smoke. Packed with intensity and soft richness, it also delivers a fine point of fresh acidity on the finish. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $47

88 La Collina dei Ciliegi 2007 L’Amarone (Amarone della Valpolicella). This marches

to the beat of its own drum, presenting a different style and bouquet than the average Amarone. In fact, this is thinner and more streamlined, with plump blackberry and boysenberry tones that are backed by moist earth and tobacco accents. It shows a feminine side to one of Italy’s most powerful reds. Lionstone International. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

88 Sartori 2008 Amarone della Valpolicel­la. Sartori is one of Valpolicella’s most impor-

tant wineries thanks to its focused dedication to local winemaking traditions. This is not as thick or sweet as others. In fact, it shows an elegant, understated quality, with bright cherry and spice overtones. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $40

88 Tezza 2008 Corte Majoli (Amarone della Valpolicella). This shows a focused quality,

with aromas of wild berry, medicinal herb and button mushroom. Although this thickly extracted wine deliv-ers density and power, it also offers balanced acidity that keeps the palate refreshed. Solstars Inc. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $30

88 Tinazzi 2008 Ca’ de’ Rocchi La Bastia (Amarone della Valpolicella). This has a

bold, modern touch in the form of chocolate fudge, cin-namon and blackberry jam notes. The velvety, soft oak tones are still very intense, so give this a few more years to evolve. Opera Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $24

87 Cavalchina 2008 Torre d’Orti Pastoria (Amarone della Valpolicella). Beautiful-

ly packaged, with a 1920s-style label, this opens with whopping heat and huge chocolate-fudge and cherry syrup flavors. It would be impossible to exaggerate how big and bold this is. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 17.5% Price: $17

VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO

87 Secondo Marco 2010 Valpolicella Clas­sico. Perfectly suited to afternoon barbecues

with burgers and hot dogs, this offers bright berry in-tensity with background notes of spice and leather. The mouthfeel is soft, enduring and medium bodied. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Tedeschi 2011 Lucchine (Valpolicella Classico). This is not complex or elaborate,

nor is it meant to be. In fact, simplicity sums it up. It’s fresh and clean, and it will drink nicely with meatloaf or pork chops. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

87 Terre di Leone 2010 Il Re Pazzo (Valpoli­cella Classico). “Il Re Pazzo," which is Ital-

ian for “the crazy king,” delivers a cheerful berry note, with enough spice, tobacco and leather tones to give the wine heft and staying power. The sharp note of acidity would make this pair well with cheesy pasta. Il Pioppo. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 Eleva 2010 Fralibri (Valpolicella Classi­co). A small percentage of Teroldego is add-

ed to this classic Valpolicella bend to give it a slightly darker color and smoother mouthfeel. On the nose, it

offers bright cherry and blackberry aromas. Vos Vinum Importing Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

86 Monte del Frá 2011 Tenuta Lena di Mezzo (Valpolicella Classico). On the bouquet, red

berry, dried herb, cola and licorice notes emerge at the forefront. The palate shows tight freshness and soft fruit flavors. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

86 Montecariano 2011 Valpolicella Classi­co. Notes of ripe fruit, prune and moist earth

give this easy-going red a warm, wintery feel. The palate is medium bodied and clean, with a tart touch of acidity on the finish. Ribevi Wine Int. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $18

85 Scriani 2011 Valpolicella Classico. Young, bright and easy, this offers pretty aromas of for-

est fruit and white cherry. The finish is characterized by a bitter almond note. CWS Wines Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

85 Stefano Accordini 2011 Valpolicella Clas­sico. This would pair with cold cuts, oven-

roasted pizza or bruschetta with wild mushrooms. It is simple, clean and redolent of wild berries and tart cher-ry. Omniwines Distribution. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

85 Vigneti Villabella 2011 I Roccoli (Valpo­licella Classico). Easy and cheerful, this has

bright acidity and simple berry aromas. There’s a hint of forest floor and a touch of bitter almond on the finish. Wine Wave. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

84 Buglioni 2011 Il Valpolicella (Valpolicella Classico). This shows bright tones of wild ber-

ry and cherry cola, with slight hints of barbecue smoke and licorice in the background. There’s even a touch of medicinal herb on the short finish. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $20

84 Giuseppe Lonardi 2011 Valpolicella Clas­sico. This opens with cherry and bitter almond

aromas, offering a lean mouthfeel that simple and clean. It’s the perfect partner to pepperoni pizza. Small Vine-yards LLC. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

84 Rubinelli Vajol 2011 Valpolicella Clas­sico. Forest berry and white cherry aromas

are followed by slightly green notes of chopped sage or rosemary. This simple wine sports a lean mouthfeel, with a crisp but short finish. Ambrosia Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

84 Santa Sofia 2010 Valpolicella Classico. There’s a bright, crisp quality to this wine, which

is reinforced by its sharp aromas of wild berry, citrus and apple. It’s straightforward and would pair with a simple ham sandwich. Laird & Company. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

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84 Vaona 2011 Valpolicella Classico. Sim-ple, crisp and fresh, this easy-going effort offers

tight aromas of wild berry, dried herb and cola. Premi-um Brands. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $12

84 Villa Monteleone 2011 Campo Santa Lena (Valpolicella Classico). Fresh, easy

and bright, this no-fuss red would be great with pep-peroni pizza or grilled sausage. There’s a sharp note of acidity to cut through the fat in those foods, followed by bright berry and cola flavors. Wirtz Beverage. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $11

83 Villa Spinosa 2010 Valpolicella Classico. Simple, bright and fresh, this has the natural

acidity to cut through fatty meat dishes or fried moz-zarella sticks. The finish is sharp and slightly tart. Tra-dizione Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $14

VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE

92 Quintarelli 2003 Valpolicella Classico Superiore. Aged in large oak casks for six long

years, Quintarelli’s exceptional Valpolicella blend—which has tiny percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Croatina and Sangiovese—shows ethere-al tones of licorice, dried ginger, wild berry and spice. The texture is smooth and polished, showing a touch of chopped mint. Robert Chadderdon Selections. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $NA

90 Giuseppe Campagnola 2010 Cateri­na Zardini (Valpolicella Classico Supe­

riore). This delivers impressive fullness and ripeness, with hearty aromas of black cherry, leather and tobacco. It’s dense and soft, with savory accents of exotic spice, clove and cinnamon on the finish. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $33

89 Speri 2009 Vigneto Sant’Urbano (Val­policella Classico Superiore). The grapes

used for this wine underwent the appassimento process for 21 days, and the wine was aged for 18 months in French oak. The result is an intense, complex wine, with red fruit, spice and tobacco flavors. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

89 Zymè 2008 Valpolicella Classico Supe­riore. This offers beautiful intensity and staying

power. Layer after layer peels away to reveal black fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and cured meat notes. The soft, velvety mouthfeel would pair with pork, lamb or veal. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $46

88 La Dama 2009 Ca’ Besi (Valpolicella Classico Superiore). Dark and bold, this

has blackberry and ripe forest-berry flavors that are fol-lowed by spice, leather and Spanish cedar notes. It’s edgy and perky, with good personality and length. Vera Food and Wine. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

88 Masi 2009 Serego Alighieri 650 Anniver­sario (Valpolicella Classico Superiore).

With roots spanning back to the legacy of Dante Aligh-ieri, this special estate in Valpolicella has teamed up with Masi to make some of northern Italy’s best wines. This offers dark concentration, with rich berry and spice aromas. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88 Novaia 2009 I Cantoni (Valpolicella Clas­sico Superiore). This is made from partially

dried fruit (the grapes undergo the appassimento pro-cess for 30 days) for extra intensity and extraction. In fact, the bouquet is dark and brooding, with black cher-ry, licorice, spice and clove-like aromas. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25

88 Terre di Leone 2006 Valpolicella Classico Superiore. This hearty red delivers ripe fruit,

cola, barbecue spice and blackberry notes. It’s smooth, soft and medium in body and length. Il Pioppo. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $56

87 Manara 2009 Vecio Belo (Valpolicella Classico Superiore). “Vecio Belo,” which

is Venetian for “old” and “pretty,” bears easy aromas of ripe berry and spice, showing medium intensity and density. There’s a soft, velvety feel that gives this a pleasant, easy-going personality. Emporium Nostrum. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Monte del Frá 2010 Tenuta Lena di Mezzo (Valpolicella Classico Superiore). Made

using grapes from the Fumane subzone of Valpolicella, this shows simple lines that are nonetheless balanced and clean. Berry and spice aromas add heft to the me-dium weight and persistency of the mouthfeel. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

87 Sartori 2009 Vigneti di Montegradella (Valpolicella Classico Superiore). Made

using grapes from the celebrated Montegradella cru, this easy red offers quality fruit aromas of black cher-ry, cassis and jammy blackberry. On the finish, a spice note and a light shade of tobacco are recognizable. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 La Collina dei Ciliegi 2010 Il Valpolicella Superiore (Valpolicella Classico Supe­

riore). This offers simple layers of cherry, spice, cola and toasted almond. The mouthfeel is soft, plush and mild. Lionstone International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $20

86 Rubinelli Vajol 2009 Valpolicella Classico Superiore. The bouquet opens with red cher-

ry, wild blueberry and dried flower aromas. The palate is medium in build, with a bright finish. Ambrosia Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20

86 Scriani 2009 Valpolicella Classico Supe­riore. Light and pretty, this is aged in large oak

cask for 12 months, which imparts notes of spice and

toasted almond. Otherwise, the wine’s core is all fruit: raspberry, cherry and currant flavors abound. CWS Wines Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $13

86 Tommasi 2010 Vigneto Rafaèl (Valpoli­cella Classico Superiore). This bright wine

offers delicate fruit notes of wild berry and white cherry, backed by hints of black pepper and cola. Easy on the palate, it shows a fresh point of acidity on the finish. Vin-tus LLC. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE RIPASSO

92 Cesari 2009 Bosan (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso). Among the most con-

sistently high-scoring Ripassos from Valpolicella, this is a lush, rich and modern rendition that’s tightly loaded with cherry, spice, leather, barbecue and tobacco fla-vors. The moutheel is smooth and round, with touches of sweet cinnamon on the finish. Try pairing it with osso buco. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45

91 Le Salette 2009 I Progni (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso). This deliv-

ers about the same intensity and concentration as a top shelf Amarone—but for half the price. It offers loads of spice, ripe fruit, leather, tobacco and black olive flavors that drive the long, supple mouthfeel. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $27

90 David Sterza 2010 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso. This drinks like a young

Amarone but is priced like a Valpolicella red. Carefully aged in oak for 12 months, this is supple and soft, burst-ing with red fruit aromas and a long, spicy finish. The Italian Wine Trader. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $17

90 Speri 2010 Valpolicella Classico Supe­riore Ripasso. Aged for 12 months in large

Slavonian oak casks, this shows aromas of toasted nut and sweet chocolate, backed by finer tones of wild berry and cassis. It’s soft, velvet and rich on the finish. Emp-son (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

90 Venturini Massimino 2008 Semonte Alto (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripas­

so). Some 18 months of oak aging gave this wine loads of density, intensity and length on the finish. It opens with bright aromas of ripe berry, leather, tar, resin and maple syrup. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $26

89 Manara 2009 Le Morete (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso). This has a

ripe and succulent quality that is shaped by the wine’s plump aromas of black cherry, cinnamon and Spanish

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

cedar. It shows thickness and power, and it would pair with cheesy pasta or meat. Emporium Nostrum. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25

89 Montecariano 2008 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso. Braised lamb shanks or

cotechino sausage with lentils are two pairing possibili-ties for this dense wine. It has a bright touch of acid-ity that would clean the palate of those rich foods. The aromas of red cherry and tobacco are present, but won’t overwhelm the food. Ribevi Wine Int. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $32

89 Nicolis 2009 Seccal (Valpolicella Classi­co Superiore Ripasso). Seccal is a wine you

can count on for richness, intensity and overall appeal. It is soft and smooth, enhanced by lively aromas of red fruit, prune, brown sugar and barbecue spice. Vignaioli. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 Remo Farina 2010 Montecorna (Valpoli­cella Classico Superiore Ripasso). Bal-

ance and intensity are two of the main characteristics that distinguish this bottling. The central thrust of the wine is carried forward by youthful berry and cherry aromas, with pretty background notes of leather and sweet spice. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

89 San Rustico 2009 Gaso (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso). This has the

capacity to rev-up any meat-based meal thanks to its ar-omatic intensity and overall spiciness. Sweet and savory at the same time, it delivers black cherry, clove, smoked bacon, leather, cola and dried fruit aromas. John Given Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

89 Terre di Leone 2006 Valpolicella Clas­sico Superiore Ripasso. This offers savory

tones of smoked bacon, cured meat, licorice, candied fruit and leather. The finish is very smooth, long and polished. Il Pioppo. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $68

88 Antolini 2010 Valpolicella Classico Supe­riore Ripasso. Like all ripassos, this expres-

sion undergoes a double fermentation, combining ele-ments of both superconcentrated Amarone and lighter, fruitier Valpolicella. It’s aged for 12 months in French oak to produce a smooth, sophisticated red, with back-ground tones of ripe fruit, spice and dark chocolate. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

88 Arduini 2010 Valpolicella Classico Su­periore Ripasso. This would pair perfectly

with the sweet and savory qualities of a dish like Roman saltimbocca—veal scallops wrapped with prosciutto and sage. Black cherry, cassis, dark spice and tobacco flavors all play a part in the wine’s appeal. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $26

88 Brunelli 2010 Pa’ Riondo (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso). At the start,

there are sweet touches of chestnut honey and barbe-

cue spice, followed by notes of candied fruit, cassis and red currant. This hearty offering would pair with glazed ham or pork shoulder with dried plums. ID Beverage Group. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Buglioni 2009 Il Bugiardo (Valpolicel­la Classico Superiore Ripasso). “Il Bu-

giardo,” which is Italian for “the liar,” is an honest and plump wine, with soft berry aromas that are woven into spicy notes of clove, black pepper, leather and tobacco. The finish is velvety and smooth. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

88 Domìni Veneti 2009 La Casetta (Valpoli­cella Classico Superiore Ripasso). For

full review see page 1. abv: 14% Price: $22

88 Cantine Lenotti di Lenotti 2009 Le Cro­sare (Valpolicella Classico Superiore

Ripasso). Thanks to the unique indigenous varieties used and the special double-fermentation process this wine undergoes, this delivers distinctive intensity and concentration, with spicy touches of cassis and toasted almond. BelVino LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $29

88 Carlo Boscaini 2008 Zane (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso). With its thick

density and slightly off-dry flavors of raisin, cassis, hon-ey and liquid smoke, this would pair with hearty coun-try pâté or meat terrines. Its alcohol, mild tannins and fresh-fruit finish would also work with those fatty foods. Tuscany Import. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $22

88 Corte San Benedetto 2008 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso. Why not try

this with fried porcini or mushrooms au gratin? This bold wine delivers playful notes of wet earth and cured meat that would match nicely with those foods. It also has has dried fruit flavors of cassis and raspberry that keep the palate refreshed and ready for the next course. Global Wine Imports LLC. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

88 Corteforte 2009 Podere Bertarole (Valpo­licella Classico Superiore Ripasso). Hav-

ing endured up to 8 months of oak aging, this offers modern touches of chocolate, spice and espresso bean that sit behind fresh aromas of black cherry and plum. The medium finish shows depth and length. The Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25

88 Gamba 2009 Campedel (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso). Touches of

heat and ripe cherry fruit give this bold wine a big im-pact on the nose and the palate. It delivers intense aro-mas of chocolate, leather, cured meat, cedar and cola. Giacopuzzi Agency. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

88 Il Roverone 2008 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso. Barbecue spice, clove,

nutmeg and dark berry fruit open the nose of this dark,

garnet-colored wine. It has soft tannins, with loads of intensity and richness on the finish. Specialty Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

88 Le Ragose 2008 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso. Notes of black cherry,

Christmas spice, leather, moist tobacco, honey, cedar and barbecue smoke all define the bouquet. It is long and smooth, with a soft, velvety finish. Frederick Wild-man & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

88 Monte del Frá 2010 Tenuta Lena di Mezzo (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripas­

so). Ripasso is a perfect wine for a chilly autumn eve-ning with roasted meat and a roaring fireplace. Hearty and determined, this shows soft black fruit, with bar-becue spice and teriyaki sauce. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $24

88 Monteci 2008 Tenazio (Valpolicella Clas­sico Superiore Ripasso). Having aged in

oak barrels for 24 months, this is not shy or bashful. It bursts open with thick, dark concentration and chewy jammy fruit aromas. The palate has a velvety texture and a touch of barbecue sweetness. Holiday Beverage. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $49

88 Remo Farina 2010 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso. Remo Farina is a stand-

out producer with a beautiful portfolio of Amarone and Ripasso wines. This expression shows youthful berry tones that are backed by notes of freshly grated cinna-mon and nutmeg. Its consistency is dark and rich. Ban-ville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

88 Secondo Marco 2009 Valpolicella Clas­sico Superiore Ripasso. This cleanses the

palate thanks to its alcohol and acidity, and aromas of red cherry, cedar and cinnamon. Pair this savory effort with spicy marinated pork or lamb. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

88 Stefano Accordini 2010 Acinatico (Valpo­licella Classico Superiore Ripasso). Even

though this spends one year in oak, it shows crisp fruit notes of forest berry and fragrant wild strawberry, with oak-driven aromas of spice and nutmeg in the back-ground. It’s smooth and silky, with a touch of brightness the finish. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 Tommasi 2010 Valpolicella Classico Su­periore Ripasso. This expression is genuine

and frank without being heavy or overextracted. It pres-ents a fine, polished texture, with bright endnotes of black cherry, cassis, leather and Spanish cedar. Vintus LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $25

88 Vaona 2010 Pegrandi (Valpolicella Clas­sico Superiore Ripasso). Thickly textured

and dense, this has plenty of ripe fruit, tobacco, cola and anise-like aromas. It has the power to cut through

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cooked beans, and it would pair nicely with a heaping serving of barley, bacon and legume soup. Premium Brands. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

88 Vigneti Villabella 2009 Valpolicella Clas­sico Superiore Ripasso. This has the brawn

and power to pair with spicy dished such as turkey spez-zatino with mustard cream sauce. The bouquet has an element of natural spice that recalls black pepper, nut-meg and clove. There’s more fruit on the palate, espe-cially dried raspberry and currant notes. Wine Wave. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $18

88 Villa Monteleone 2010 Campo San Vito (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripas­

so). This red showcases characteristic aromas of red fruit, cola and barbecue spice, with a soft, velvety close. Wirtz Beverage. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Aldegheri 2009 Santambrogio (Valpoli­cella Classico Superiore Ripasso). Sant-

ambrogio doles out cheerful tones of red berry, spice, cola, licorice and dried ginger. There’s a touch of barbe-cue smoke that gives the wine more depth and persis-tency overall. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

87 Antica Corte 2010 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso. This opens with bright

aromas of cherry, blueberry, leather, tobacco and clove. The palate shows nice harmony and density that is en-hanced by a zesty, spicy finish. Total Wine & More. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

87 Antica Corte 2008 Valpolicella Classi­co Superiore Ripasso. This shows a tiny

hint of tertiary aromatic evolution in the form of dried fruit, tobacco leaf, dusty mineral and licorice. It deliv-ers a smooth, polished mouthfeel as well. Total Wine & More. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

87 Begali 2010 La Cengia (Valpolicella Clas­sico Superiore Ripasso). A real crowd

pleaser, this is a full, round and soft wine, with thick layers of dried berry, spice, leather and dark tobacco flavors. It would pair with any meat-based pasta dish. Siema LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Bolla 2010 Le Poiane (Valpolicella Clas­sico Superiore Ripasso). This has zest,

personality and depth, with layers of red fruit, spice, leather, pipe tobacco and dried rosemary emerge that emerge on the bouquet. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $17

87 Bolla 2009 Valpolicella Classico Supe­riore Ripasso. This historic and ground-

breaking brand has been once again revamped and renewed. Among its latest hits is this simple, but per-suasively food-friendly ripasso, which offers aromas of

black cherry, cola, tobacco and spice, and a bright, firm mouthfeel. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Cantina di Negrar 2010 Le Roselle (Val­policella Classico Superiore Ripasso).

For full review see page 11. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Castellani Michele & Figli 2010 San Mi­chele Ca’ del Pipa (Valpolicella Classico

Superiore Ripasso). This offers much of the inten-sity of Amarone with some of the easy-drinking appeal of Valpolicella. Twists of ripe cherry and dried ginger lend it extra personality. Bedford International. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $18

87 Degani 2010 Cicilio (Valpolicella Classi­co Superiore Ripasso). Tightly layered and

opulent, this has loads of fruit intensity, with notes of spice and moist earth. The palate shows firm density and supple smoothness. Michael R. Downey Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 Gamba 2009 Le Quare (Valpolicella Clas­sico Superiore Ripasso). Elegant and

streamlined, this opens with subtle tones of dried fruit, prune, raisin and cassis. It also delivers savory layers of spice and cured meat flavors, with a note of tobacco and a spicy pinch of white pepper. Giacopuzzi Agency. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $19

87 La Dama 2009 Valpolicella Classico Su­periore Ripasso. This is layered and complex,

with tones of black cherry, dried apple skin, clove, white pepper and grated ginger. Like most wines from Valpo-licella, it offers heat and power but mellow tannins. Vera Food and Wine. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $18

87 Luigi Righetti 2010 Campolieti (Valpoli­cella Classico Superiore Ripasso). For

full review see page 11. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Monteci 2008 Valpolicella Classico Su­periore Ripasso. Dried rose petal and cassis

notes give this wine an almost feminine flair. Beyond those delicate tones are hearty layers of prune, black cherry and pipe tobacco flavors. Soft, velvety tannins complete the pretty picture. Holiday Beverage. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $NA

87 Recchia 2008 Le Muraie (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso). A touch of

berry sweetness is in the bouquet and on the palate, followed by crushed clove and cinnamon stick notes. You can taste the air-dried fruit due to the flavors of prune and currant. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $19

87 Rubinelli Vajol 2009 Valpolicella Classi­co Superiore Ripasso. On the hot and al-

coholic side, this powerful wine has the muscle to cut through cheeses, rich cream sauces or fatty stewed beef.

The touch of crisp acidity, as well as the wine’s ripe, ber-ry-scented bouquet also make it an appropriate pairing partner to those foods. Ambrosia Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $35

87 Santi 2010 Solane (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso). Tight and aromatically

intense, this delivers layers of ripe fruit, prune, black pepper, blackberry jelly and cinnamon. Those beauti-ful tones are followed by soft, velvety tannins. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

87 Scriani 2008 Valpolicella Classico Supe­riore Ripasso. This is plump wine is redolent

of ripe red fruit, blackberry, spice, cola and teriyaki. It will pair well with stewed beef, roasted pork with garlic and rosemary or lamb chops. CWS Wines Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $17

86 Corte Archi 2009 Gli Archi (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso). This com-

bines bright fruit aromas of cherry and raspberry with dried tones of tobacco, earth and crushed stone. It’s food friendly and easy going on the finish. International Cellars. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

86 Giuseppe Lonardi 2009 Valpolicella Clas­sico Superiore Ripasso. Ripe, plush and

chewy, this easy-going wine has the heft and endurance to pair with cheesy lasagna or pizza. It’s soft and lush on the palate, with tame tannins. Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE

93 Dal Forno Romano 2007 Valpolicella Su­periore. For full review see page 6. Cellar Se-

lection. abv: 15% Price: $129

90 Roccolo Grassi 2009 Valpolicella Supe­riore. Roccolo Grassi takes Valpolicella Supe-

riore to the next level. While Valpolicella Superiore is mostly recognized as an easy-drinking red to wash down with pizza or pasta, this has touches of ripe fruit and exotic spice that lend extra sophistication, elegance and texture. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

89 Tenuta Chiccheri 2007 Vigneto di Campo delle Strie (Valpolicella Superiore). This is

an elegant, focused wine that shows balanced aromas of fruit and spice, with touches of espresso and tobacco in the background. Its personality is austere and mascu-line, with natural heft and richness. David Vincent Se-lection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

88 Latium di Morini 2009 Campo Prognài (Valpolicella Superiore). Definitely a big

wine, this vineyard-designated Valpolicella has a dark garnet color and thick aromas of ripe fruit, spice and

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

tobacco. The finish is long and smooth. Jan D’Amore Wines. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $24

88 Massimago 2010 Valpolicella Superiore. Very attractive, linear and clean, this Valpolicel-

la Superiore has 15% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. The wine is firm and composed, with bright blackberry and lingering spice overtones. 55 Degrees. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

88 Pieropan 2009 Ruberpan (Valpolicella Superiore). Made from the producer of some

of the greatest Soave white wines, this wine shows simi-lar focus and attention to detail. It’s well executed, of-fering defined berry tones that are enhanced by notes of spice, chocolate and soft leather. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

88 Prà 2010 Morandina (Valpolicella Supe­riore). This shows smooth density and bright

fruit flavors of blueberry and dried raspberry, with soft hints of cinnamon and dark chocolate. The wine’s fine texture and freshness make it a perfect partner to fet-tuccine with meat sauce and grated pecorino cheese. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Trabucchi d’Illasi 2007 Terra di San Co­lombano (Valpolicella Superiore). Small

percentages of Croatina, Oseleta and Forsellina grapes are added to this traditional Valpolicella blend. It’s bright and fruity, with cherry and blueberry notes that are backed by a touch of smooth spice and a polished finish. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $27

87 Ca’ Rugate 2010 Campo Lavei (Valpoli­cella Superiore). This opens with bright fruit

notes of blueberry and wild cherry, followed by savory touches of exotic spice and green tea. It offers heft and endurance without the chewy thickness found in some Amarone. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $30

87 Cavalchina 2009 Torre d’Orti Morari (Val­policella Superiore). A bright streak of fresh-

ness comes forth thanks to the aromas of forest berry, cherry, red currant and spice. It shows intensity and power on the finish, with enough heat to cut through creamy foods or cheeses. Vintners Estate Direct Im-porting. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $25

86 San Cassiano 2008 Valpolicella Supe­riore. Lasagna, meat-filled ravioli or mushroom

risotto would make good pairing partners to this mild and crisp red. It offers notes of red berry, almond and cola. Quigley Fine Wines. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

86 Zenato 2009 Valpolicella Superiore. This shows easy characteristics of red cherry, bitter

almond, cola and spice, with a bright and cleansing fin-ish. It would pair nicely with pasta or pizza. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Musella 2010 Valpolicella Superiore. The traditional grapes of Valpolicella (Corvina, Ron-

dinella and Molinara) are blended with 10% Barbera, giving this an added touch of crisp acidity. The simple nose shows notes of wild berry, toasted almond and cola. Moonlight Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $18

85 Zanoni 2008 Valpolicella Superiore. This is redolent of red cherry, spice, leather and

dried apple skin, with a sharp touch of medicinal herb on the finish. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE RIPASSO

90 Prà 2010 Morandina (Valpolicella Supe­riore Ripasso). On the palate, this feels vel-

vety and smooth thanks to its rich texture and enduring flavors. The nose is characterized by black cherry, cola, licorice, espresso and tobacco notes Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $NA

90 Zenato 2009 Ripassa (Valpolicella Supe­riore Ripasso). The name "Ripassa" refers to

the unique winemaking technique, ripasso, in which the wine undergoes a double fermentation for increased concentration and density. This is bold, powerful and tightly packed with cherry and exotic spice aromas. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $30

89 Cesari 2010 Mara (Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso). This offers a slightly less formal and

austere expression compared to Cesari’s Bosan. Perfect for chicken or pork roast, this delivers fresh acidity be-yond the tones of cherry, cola, leather and barbecue spice. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 Tedeschi 2010 Capitel San Rocco (Valpo­licella Superiore Ripasso). Tedeschi is one

of the benchmark producers of Valpolicella. This wine is bursting with fresh fruit intensity and lush background notes of spice, leather and moist pipe tobacco. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $28

89 Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2009 Monti Garbi (Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso). This is

thickly layered with ripe fruit, spice, leather, cedar and savory spice aromas. Its soft, velvety texture would pair with pork, veal or grilled sausage. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $18

88 Bertani 2010 Secco Bertani (Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso). One of Italy’s great food

wines (such as with duck, guinea fowl, rabbit or veal), Secco Bertani is an institution all its own. This bold ef-fort opens with playful notes of spice and leather that are set against dark berry and cassis accents. The tannic structure is mild, but the texture is generous and endur-ing. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $18

88 Cantina Sociale della Valpantena 2010 Torre del Falasco (Valpolicella Superiore

Ripasso). Ripasso Torre del Falasco is among the proud achievements of this important wine co-op. It de-livers sweet fruit and spice aromas that are set against savory tones of bresaola and smoked bacon. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25

87 Ca’ Rugate 2009 Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso. Aged partially in wood and stain-

less steel, this delivers a healthy dose of plump, ripe red fruit. Notes of cherry, plum, red currant and cassis are followed by soft tannins and a spicy touch of white pep-per. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $32

87 Domenico Fraccaroli 2009 Grotta del Ninfeo (Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso).

A great red meat wine because of its distinctive den-sity, extraction and power, this is redolent of red fruit, prune and plum. It finishes with an array of zesty spice nuances that range from ginger to crushed clove. One Vine Wines. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

87 La Collina dei Ciliegi 2007 Il Valpolicel­la Ripasso Superiore (Valpolicella Supe­

riore Ripasso). Having spent many months in oak, this hearty bottling offers masculine aromas of choco-late, toasted nut, ripe blackberry, jammy fruit, spice and leather. The wine’s heat and strength are followed by supple tannins. Giacopuzzi Agency. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $35

87 Musella 2009 Valpolicella Superiore Ri­passo. To add a touch of much-needed fresh-

ness and acidity, a small percentage of Barbera is added to this traditional blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Mo-linara. The quality of fruit is very nice and resembles cherry, cassis and prune. Moonlight Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

87 Pasqua 2010 Black Label (Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso). With some 30,000 cas-

es produced, this well-distributed wine shows broad ap-peal with its bright cherry and blackberry aromas that are backed by touches of leather, tar, licorice and dried ginger. The wine is soft and supple on the finish, with a touch of chewy sweetness. Pasqua U.S.A LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Pietro Zardini 2008 Austero (Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso). This has a touch of aus-

terity, with savory spice, cured meat and teriyaki aro-mas. The palate bursts with bright red fruit and smooth tannins. J.A.O. Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 Santa Sofia 2009 Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso. Santa Sofia is a celebrated estate

with its very own landmark villa that was designed by architect Andrea Palladio. That beautiful aesthetic is matched by its production of fine wines. This elegant

WineMag.com | 67

wine has dark fruit aromas and spicy flavors. Laird & Company. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

87 Tinazzi 2010 Ca’ de’ Rocchi Monterè (Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso). Pork

marinated in teriyaki sauce or spicy tandoori chicken would pair nicely with this hearty offering. It has a gen-erous accent of spicy clove, black pepper and carda-mom that is followed by supple tannins. Opera Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

87 Tinazzi 2009 Tenuta Valleselle Rover­tondo (Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso).

This offers hearty fruit layers of black cherry, prune and plum, followed by notes of spice, leather and cola. It shows power and determination on the finish, with soft, velvety tannins. Opera Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

86 Zeni 2010 Marogne (Valpolicella Supe­riore Ripasso). The bouquet opens with

touches of candied fruit, lemon zest and cola, followed by red fruit and spice notes. It has a thick, velvety mouthfeel. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20

VALPOLICELLA

86 Corte Sant’ Alda 2011 Ca’ Fiui (Valpoli­cella). Made using organically farmed fruit,

this is a simple and fruity red that would pair with chicken curry or pork roast. The flavors are reminiscent of wild berry, cola and chopped herb. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

86 Gino Fasoli 2010 La Corte del Pozzo (Val­policella). This bottling offers more density

and heft than usually found in this category of Italian reds. The bouquet offers bright berry, cherry, leather and spice notes. Chartrand Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20

86 Latium di Morini 2011 Latium (Valpolicel­la). Simple and fresh, this delivers easy aromas

of cherry, wild berry, cola and bitter almond skin. It’s lean and crisp, with a short, bright finish. Jan D’Amore Wines. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $14

86 Speri 2010 La Roverina (Valpolicella). Fresh, and easy, this is the perfect easy-drinking

wine to enjoy with weeknight dinners. It offers blue-berry, cherry and white almond aromas. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

86 Trabucchi d’Illasi 2010 Le Mariette (Val­policella). This opens with easy aromas of wild

berry, cherry, licorice and liquid smoke. The mouthfeel is smooth, crisp and medium in build. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $16

86 Zymè 2011 Rêverie (Valpolicella). With low alcohol and an easy disposition, this is the

kind of red wine you can enjoy with pizza. The bouquet is redolent of red berry, cola and dried apple skin. Ban-ville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $27

85 Ca’ Rugate 2011 Rio Albo (Valpolicella). Rio This opens with fresh aromas of wild straw-

berry and blueberry, embellished by tiny accents of spice and bitter almond. There’s even a savory note of rosemary oil on the finish. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $15

85 Domenico Fraccaroli 2011 Grotta del Ninfeo (Valpolicella). Easy and fresh, this

ruby-colored wine opens with cherry, blackberry and dried rose aromas. It’s clean and crisp, with a simple fin-ish. One Vine Wines. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

85 Massimago 2011 Valpolicella. Light in weight, appearance and intensity, this crisp red

delivers bright berry fruit and a distant touch of toasted almond. Pair it with spaghetti and meat sauce. 55 De-grees. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

84 San Cassiano 2010 Valpolicella. This no-fuss Valpolicella delivers light cherry and al-

mond flavors. It’s a wine to pair with a late-evening ham sandwich or with Chinese food. Quigley Fine Wines. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $18

84 Zanoni 2010 Valpolicella. White cherry, raspberry, almond skin and cola describe the

simple bouquet of this easy-going red. On the palate, it’s crisp and lean. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $14

84 Zeni 2010 Valpolicella. This easy wine would pair with a roast chicken or a pork chop. The

flavors are redolent of wild berry, white cherry, cola and black pepper. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO

87 La Collina dei Ciliegi 2010 Il Valpolicella Ripasso (Valpolicella Ripasso). An hon-

est rendition of Valpolicella Ripasso, this offers intense loads of fruit and spice that play off each other in an even and balanced way. The soft finish is driven by tones of red cherry, blackberry, clove and white pepper. Lion-stone International. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

87 Montresor 2010 Capitel della Crosara (Valpolicella Ripasso). This is definitely a

wine meant to drink in the winter. It shows thick extrac-tion, mellow tannins and loads of spice and ripe fruit flavors. Total Wine & More. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $16

86 Cantina Sociale della Valpantena 2010 Torre del Falasco (Valpolicella Ripasso).

Simple, bright and tart, this easy red will pair with sim-ple meat or pasta dishes. The bouquet offers red berry and cola aromas, with a spicy touch of dried ginger. Om-niwines Distribution. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

86 Cavalchina 2009 Torre d’Orti (Valpolicel­la Ripasso). This simple red is a great food

wine, and it would pair with just about anything con-taining meat or cheese. It has heft and determination, with bright accents of cherry, red rose and dried apple. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

86 Gino Fasoli 2010 La Corte del Pozzo (Val­policella Ripasso). Toasty and bright, this

garnet-colored wine offers fresh cherry and roasted nut aromas that balance each other nicely. The wine’s medi-um body is backed by a touch of heat and a note of tangy exotic spice. Chartrand Imports. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $25

86 Tezza 2010 Ma Roat (Valpolicella Ripas­so). Tangy and savory, this has notes of spice,

ripe berry, blackberry pie, leather and moist earth. The palate is smooth, with a polished feel. Solstars Inc. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

86 Le Bertarole 2009 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico. This simple wine delivers currant,

dried raspberry and ginger aromas. Medium in build and in intensity, it offers toasted accents on the finish. Vinarium Inc. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

VENETO

93 Maculan 2009 Fratta (Veneto). A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot, this

is a landmark bottling because many years ago it dem-onstrated that great international-style wines could be made elsewhere in Italy—not only in Tuscany. A cele-brated star of the Veneto, this oak-aged red offers enor-mous density and intensity, with soft, velvety layers and bright aromas of red fruit, spice and dried sage. The fin-ish is characterized by savory, herbal notes that are fresh and tantalizing. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

90 De Stefani 2008 Carmerosso Carmenère (Veneto). This expression of Carmenère shows

soft, plush aromas of blackberry and cherry fruit. The wine is aged in oak for two years, rendering rich flavors of espresso and dark chocolate, and a firm structure. Holiday Beverage. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

88 De Stefani 2009 Solèr (Veneto). A blend of equal parts Marzemino, Merlot, Cabernet Sau-

vignon and Refosco, this opens with jammy aromas of blackberry, Indian spice and sun-ripened cherry. There is a nice touch of freshness on the finish, with a subtle accent of bitter almond. Holiday Beverage. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $37

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

88 De Stefani 2008 Plavis Merlot (Veneto). A pure expression of Merlot, this shows loads

of red berry fruit, with a touch of rosemary oil or green herb. Aged for 12 months in oak, it is soft, sturdy, fruity and genuine. Holiday Beverage. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

88 La di Motte 2010 Refosco (Veneto). A pure expression of Refosco, this runs heavy on prune,

plum and dark berry aromas. Its bold aromatic intensity is backed by touches of acidity and smooth tannins. Try it with savory meats, like lamb. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 De Stefani 2008 Terre Nobili (Veneto). "Terre Nobili," which is Italian for "noble lands,"

is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Refosco. Aged for 24 months in oak, it opens with bright fruit intensity, bearing notes of spice, rosemary and to-bacco. The mouthfeel is acidic, making it a good choice to enjoy with cheesy lasagna with béchamel sauce. Holi-day Beverage. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $69

87 Maculan 2010 Brentino (Veneto). A blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this has

bright cherry fruit, with light touches of spice and toast-ed almond. The simple, but velvety mouthfeel will work with curry chicken or spicy beef. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Maculan 2009 Brentino (Veneto). Maculan is celebrated for its excellent expressions of in-

ternational grapes grown in the Veneto. This easy blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon offers a cheerful bouquet of cherry fruit and mild exotic spice. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

85 Fabiano 2009 Argillaia Intenso Caber­net Sauvignon (Veneto). This pure Caber-

net Sauvignon is light and lean in appearance, with a slightly sour note on the finish. It offers easy aromas of ripe fruit, spice, black pepper and dried herb. Admiral Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

VERONESE

90 Tommasi 2010 Crearo della Conca d’Oro (Veronese). This is a blend of Corvina, Osele-

ta and Cabernet Franc that shows some of the intensity of an Amarone, but with more defined tannic structure on the finish. The bouquet offers blackberry and dark spice. Vintus LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $27

89 Le Ragose 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rosso del Veronese). A pure expression

of Cabernet Sauvignon, this opens with aromas of dark coffee, pulpy blackberry, leather and light shadings of exotic spice. There’s a fresh note of green herb that’s backed by structure and density. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $35

88 Fabiano 2007 Vajo (Rosso del Veronese). A thick and chewy blend of Corvina, Merlot and

Cabernet Sauvignon, this is thickly extracted and bold in style, with a dark, inky color and loads of jammy black fruit. Aged for two years in oak, it shows a succulent sweetness on the long, velvety finish. Admiral Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

88 Masi 2009 Campofiorin (Rosso del Ve­ronese). The great darling of Valpolicella,

Campofiorin is a ripasso-style red that undergoes a special double fermentation, although the label does not mention "ripasso." It shows impressive personality and complexity, with spice, ripe fruit, leather and dried ginger aromas. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $18

87 Fabiano 2009 Negraro Corvina (Ve­ronese). A pure expression of Valpolicella’s

workhorse grape, Corvina, this wine sees 12 months of wood aging for extra spice and softness. It finishes with chewy black fruit, with a cola note and a subtle touch of sour cherry. Admiral Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Tommasi 2010 Arele (Veronese). This ex-citing blend of Oseleta and Merlot (the grapes

are partially air dried for extra concentration) offers a bright cherry aroma, with notes of leather and dried rosemary. There’s are touches of humus and dried gin-ger as well. Vintus LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $17

SPAIN

RÍAS BAIXAS

90 As Laxas 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Nice as always, this has notes of angel food

cake, orange blossom and peach on the bouquet. It feels smooth and shows elegance, delivering mineral-ly peach and citrus flavors. It holds form on the finish, which locks in on the wine’s peach and citrus character. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

90 Palacio de Fefiñanes 2011 Albariño de Fefiñanes (Rías Baixas). Clean, crisp, cut,

this has a minerally white-fruit nose. It’s elegant and chiseled on the palate, with bright peach and nectar-ine flavors that carry onto a tight, dry, flinty finish. An elegant, lifted Albariño with a lightness of being. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $26

89 Adegas Gran Vinum 2010 Gran Vinum Albariño (Rías Baixas). For a 2010, this is

holding form. It smells mature but fresh, with plenty of sea influence and white fruit aromas. It feels nice, lifted and lively, with lemon, citrus and green apple flavors. A pinch of pithy bitterness infiltrates the finish, but over-all this is a fine Albariño to drink very soon. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $27

89 Terras Gauda 2011 O Rosal Albariño (Rías Baixas). For full review see page 10.

abv: 12.5% Price: $24

87 Adegas Gran Vinum 2011 Mar de Viñas Albariño (Rías Baixas). Minerally and tight

on the nose, this has a modest level of white fruit and flower aromas. It feels angular and light, with tangy ac-ids pushing lemon and pineapple flavors. Crisp but lean on the finish. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

87 Lícia 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Open, fresh and peachy on the nose, becoming citrusy

and leaning toward the acidic side on the palate. Fla-vors of tangerine, lemon and orange keep it moving, and the finish, while short, is fresh and cleansing. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

87 Terras Gauda 2011 Abadia de San Campio Albariño (Rías Baixas). For full

review see page 12.abv: 12.5% Price: $20

85 Lagar de Costa 2010 Albariño (Rías Baix­as). The oyster and clam shell aromas are brin-

ey to say the least. The palate is acidic and scouring, with lime, lemon and green melon flavors. It turns pithy on the finish, then a little bitter. Novo Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

85 Ramón Bilbao 2011 Valiñas Albariño (Rías Baixas). Straightforward peach aromas

come with a stalky, grassy side. It feels zesty, spritzy and citric, then tastes almost entirely of orange and tanger-ine, with a dry finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

85 Viña Ludy 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Saline, mineral, match stick and tropical fruit

aromas define the bouquet. It feels plump but flat, with maderized flavors of white fruits that feature bitterness and not much kick. It’s fleshy, remaining slightly bitter on the finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

RUEDA

92 Blanco Nieva 2011 Pie Franco Verdejo (Rueda). This gets going with apple, peach

and mineral aromas that are pure and alluring. It feels lifted but a little creamy, with green banana, lime, or-ange and kiwi flavors. Solid and long on the finish; this is exemplary unoaked Verdejo. Frontier Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $28

91 Shaya 2010 Habis Old Vines Verdejo (Rueda). Elegant and elevated, this shows fine

integration of fruit and oak on the nose. It feels creamy, with barrel toast, dry spice and melon flavors. It is firm, healthy and structured on the finish courtesy of barrel fermentation and aging. A Burgundian facsimile from Rueda. Gil Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

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89 Blanco Nieva 2011 Verdejo (Rueda). This is waxy on the nose, with the aromatic spunk of

nettle and sweaty citrus. It feels fresh, minerally and zesty, with citrus, apple and green herb flavors. It’s solid, smooth and elegant on the finish, which turns slightly bitter as it concludes. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

88 Shaya 2011 Old Vines Verdejo (Rueda). The apple and lime aromas are simple yet in-

viting. It feels round and mellow, maybe a bit low in acidity. The flavors of banana, vanilla bean and pear are friendly, while the finish is smooth and bears a tropical flavor. Gil Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Hermanos Lurton 2011 Verdejo (Rueda). The light apple and mild citrus aromas are nice.

It feels fresh and medium in intensity, with notes of peach, apple, pear and citrus in equal, moderate doses. Short, lemony and fresh on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

87 Shaya 2011 Arindo Verdejo (Rueda). For full review see page 13. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $11

86 Verderol 2011 Srping in a Bottle Verdejo (Rueda). This feels mildly citric, with limited

portions of lemon, apple and peach making up the fla-vor profile. Mild on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

85 Naia 2010 Ducado de Altan Verdejo (Rue­da). This starts with some Verdejo sweat and

funk on the nose, and while those notes don’t last, the bouquet doesn’t improve dramatically with airing. It feels soft and basic, with melon and lettuce flavors. Falls off a bit on the finish, which tastes a bit briney. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

85 Pico Cuadro 2010 La Casa de las Esen­cias Verdejo (Rueda). The aromas are slight-

ly maderized and soft, with hints of baked apple and corn cake. It feels plump, mealy and a touch flat, with nectarine and wheat flavors. Chunky and peachy on the finish, this is starting to fade. Novo Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

84 Loess 2010 Blanco Verdejo (Rueda). The bouquet is dry, briney and otherwise neutral. It

feels wide and lemony, with flavors of citrus and white fruits. It remains mildly pickled on the finish. Enotrends LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

OTHER WHITE WINES

87 Finca Torremilanos 2010 Peñalba López Vino Blanco (Vino de la Tierra de Castil­

la y León). This small-production, barrel-fermented blend of white Tempranillo and Sauvignon Blanc smells neutral and fresh except for some barrel notes. It has a mix of spice, toast, citrus, almond and melon flavors.

It spreads out on the finish, tasting spicy and cidery. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

86 El Pensador 2011 Verdejo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Fresh, crisp and

minerally on the nose, this has green apple and melon aromas. It feels fresh, juicy, light and refreshing, with high-toned white-fruit flavors as well as notes of grape-fruit, herb and lime. Clean on the finish. Winery Ex-change. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $13

86 Storks’ Tower 2011 Sauvignon Blanc­Verdejo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y

León). Crisp and likable, this smells stony and snappy, with spring pea, passion fruit and citrus aromas. It feels well cut, with green bean, grass and citrus flavors. While it hints at being vegetal, it maintains a consistent white-fruit and citrus profile. HAB North America. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

86 Volteo 2011 Verdejo­Sauvignon Blanc (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León).

Clean, minerally and smells of tarragon, fresh bell pep-per and lemony citrus. Feels lively, with pink grapefruit, passion fruit, lime and generic sweetness for flavors. A lip-smacking wine that’s varietally accurate. 60% Verde-jo and 40% SB. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

84 Altozano 2010 Finca Constancia Verde­jo­Sauvignon Blanc (Toledo). This smells

a bit wayward and sulfuric, but it’s juicy and acidic on the tongue, with lemony and oily, nutty flavors. It holds steady on the finish, which is lemony in character. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

82 Bodegas Luzón 2011 Luzón Blanco Ma­cabeo (Jumilla). The nose offers white bread

and pancake aromas. It feels angular and acidic, with dry, crisp apple and citrus flavors that finish in a corny, stalky fashion. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

82 Pagos del Rey 2011 Diego de Almagro Airen (Valdepeñas). This is neutral on the

nose except for a hint of white flower and peach. It’s snappy but basic feeling, with a stalky apple flavor. It finishes dry and lemony, with a corny flavor. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

SPARKLING WINES

88 Princesa NV Brut Nature (Cava). For full review see page 11.

abv: 11.5% Price: $19

87 Maria Casanovas NV Brut de Brut Reser­va (Cava). This smells yeasty without much

overt fruit on the nose. It feels crisp, citrusy and healthy, with citrus and apple flavors that register as standard

but good. It’s competent in every way, with clarity and freshness. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $18

86 Bodegas Antaño NV Añ Vino Espumoso de Calidad Brut Nature Verdejo (Rueda).

This smells yeasty and peachy, with a maderized quality to the bouquet. It tastes cidery and citrusy, with a light body and not much in the way of bubbles or vitality. The flavors of apple, lemon and peach are fair and fleshy. Tastes pithy on the finish. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

86 El Xamfrà NV Mercat Brut Nature (Cava). Apple and dry spice aromas comprise the re-

strained but pleasant bouquet. It feels good, healthy and dry as a bone, with briney white-fruit flavors. It tastes mildly pickled on the finish, but it shows good feel and balance. Valkyrie Selections. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

86 Sàniger NV Brut Nature Reserva (Cava). Dusty and straightforward on the nose, this has

aromas of pear and apple. It feels simple, tight and not overly evolved, with a peach flavor that’s not too com-plex. Zesty in feel, this tastes a bit like vitamins and nuts on the finish. Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $12

86 Segura Viudas NV Extra Dry (Cava). Dry apple and crisp citrus aromas come with a touch

of sweet grass. It has lively lemon-lime and apple fla-vors, and it seems to have beeen dosed on the sweeter side of extra dry. Overall, it’s fruity, friendly and likable. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

85 Freixenet NV Cordon Negro Extra Dry (Cava). Forward and direct up front, this has

a yeasty but fresh apple aroma. It feels clean and ready, with lemon-lime and kiwi flavors that lead to a fresh fin-ish. This is textbook Cava with some sweetness. Freix-enet USA. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $12

85 Jaume Serra 2007 Cristalino Brut Na­ture (Cava). Golden in color, this has bready

baked-apple aromas. It feels plump and soft for a brut nature, with a maderized quality to the palate. It tastes extremely dry, like seltzer water blended with citrus, al-mond and butterscotch. It continues on the same flavor plane throughout the finish. Colección Internacional del Vino. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

85 Segura Viudas NV Aria Estate Extra Dry (Cava). Starts out with stalky, corny aromas

that are typical of sweet Cavas. It feels candied and al-most cloying, but adequate acidity comes to the rescue. Flavors of melon, mango and kiwi are sweet, while the finish suggests corn cakes and tropical fruits. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $14

83 Jaume Serra NV Cristalino Extra­Dry (Cava). Dusty and yeasty on the nose, this has

an eggy, sweaty note. It feels good but drifts a bit on

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

the palate, while the flavors run stalky and sweet, with a touch of apple for crispness. Colección Internacional del Vino. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

82 Dominio de la Vega NV Artemayor Brut Nature (Cava). Yeasty, briney and strange on

the nose, this feels clunky, with oily citrus and nut-driv-en flavors. It’s bitter on the finish, and it doesn’t show much in the way of mouthfeel. A blend of Chardonnay and Macabeo. A.W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $38

ROSÉ

80 Bodegas Medina 2011 Jaloco Rosado Rosé (Ribera del Guadiana). This is on its

last legs. It smells maderized, flat and candied, then feels heavy and drying. It tastes and smells old, finishing bitter. Rio Tinto Export Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

RIOJA

91 Viñamada 2006 Reserva (Rioja). More tra-ditional than modern in style, this has aromas of

citrus, herb, dry oak and medium-weight fruit. It feels crisp and tightly focused, with a complex palate that of-fers notes of berries, chocolate and herbs. It finishes long, with a leathery, meaty element that lends gravitas to the wine. Drink now–2016. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $30

91 Ysios 2007 Reserva Edición Limitada (Rioja). Charred and smoky on first take, this

has plenty of upfront oak that adds a toasty quality to the core plum and berry aromas. It feels full, round and pure, with dark, slightly balsamic-like flavors of baked berry and earth. It’s smooth, mild and unobtrusive on the finish. Drink now–2016. Pernod Ricard. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50

90 Viña Valoria 2006 Reserva (Rioja). Smooth and pure up front, this has notes of lemon peel

and tobacco on the bouquet. Fresh, complete and racy in feel, it has flavors of tomato, cherry and raspberry, with an overall freshness that can’t be assailed. It finish-es mild, with a hint of toffee. Elegant and ready to drink now–2015. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

89 Bodegas Palacio 2007 Cosme Palacio Reserva (Rioja). A light, elegant berry aroma

transitions to notes of plum and blackberry with airing. Smooth and nice in terms of mouthfeel, it has balsamic-touched flavors of lightly stewed berry, earth and choco-late. This is a proper Rioja for near-term drinking. HAB North America. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 Bodegas Palacio 2007 Glorioso Reserva Especial (Rioja). Jammy raspberry aromas

are easygoing and come with a hint of tobacco. It feels grabby but good, with lots of spice, pepper, herb and dark fruit flavors on the palate. The finish is healthy and

well lifted, with a light but fresh herbal accent. HAB North America. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

89 Federico Paternina 2006 Clisos Reserva Tempranillo (Rioja). Dark in color and dense

on the nose, this has aromas of pastry, blackberry, jam-my plum and even an exotic note. It feels chewy and sol-id, with a full-bodied texture and deep flavors of black cherry and prune. It comes up a bit short and clipped on the finish. Novo Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

89 Ramón Bilbao 2008 Limited Edition Cri­anza (Rioja). This is leathery and earthy up

front, with cherry and berry aromas that come with a flower accent. It feels snappy, alert and slightly citrusy, with raspberry, red plum and vanilla flavors. It’s relative-ly short and choppy on the finish, but it’s fresh, with the proper amount of oak. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

88 Bodegas Palacio 2008 Cosme Palacio 1894 (Rioja). A heavy rush of black coffee is

the key aroma, and with that comes notes of rustic bar-rel char and black fruit. It delivers a solid structure and a firm foundation, along with sticky tannins and oak-based resin. It tastes dark, with baked plum, tobacco and spice. This is creamy, charred and oaky from start to finish. HAB North America. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

88 Burgo Viejo 2006 Reserva (Rioja). Jam-my strawberry, crushed raspberry and mineral

aromas define the bouquet. The palate is lifted by good acidity, while flavors of vanilla and tomato accent the raspberry and plum fruits. Fresh and subtle on the fin-ish, this is a middleweight wine with a juicy disposition. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Finca La Emperatriz 2007 Reserva (Rio­ja). Full, ripe and lusty, this has notes of licorice

and grit on the bouquet. It feels fresh and lively, with enough richness and weight for balance. It tastes of bal-samic-infused berry and spice, with an integrated herb note peeking through. Vinergia Spanish Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $26

87 Baron De Ley 2007 Reserva (Rioja). This is smooth and smells like true Rioja with

its vanilla, dill and raspberry aromas. It feels fresh and healthy, but a little choppy and gritty, and it tastes of cherry, vanilla, tobacco and leafy herb. Frederick Wild-man & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Ramón Bilbao 2006 Reserva (Rioja). This smells a bit charred at first, then turns syrupy

and richly oaked. It feels fresh but hard, with spiky acid-ity that pushes the citrusy, vanilla-accented red-fruit. It finishes crisp and a little tart, with cherry, plum and herb flavors. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 Vaza 2008 Crianza (Rioja). This is roast-ed, savory and spicy up front, with solid berry

aromas. It feels crisp and fresh, with a blend of cherry, strawberry and herb flavors. It’s spicy, lively, fresh and clean on the finish. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Ramón Bilbao 2008 Crianza Tempranillo (Rioja). Initially, this may smell a bit hot and

leafy, but with time that quality settles. It feels narrow, tannic and condensed, with roasted flavors of red berry, spice and chocolate. The finish offers a mix of citrus, red berry and herb flavors. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Federico Paternina 2008 Clisos Crianza Tempranillo (Rioja). This smells like fresh

pavement at first, with gritty black-fruit and burnt leaf notes. The palate feels edgy, with a spotty red-fruit fla-vor that’s matched with notes of resiny oak and vanilla. It finishes in a similar fashion. Novo Imports and Aidil Wines & Liquors. Novo Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

RIBERA DEL DUERO

93 Alidis 2006 Gran Reserva (Ribera del Du­ero). This is earthy, cool and foresty on the bou-

quet, with a coconut note that accents the wine’s deep berry aromas. It feels smooth and nicely balanced, with modest tannins and toasty, oaky flavors of spiced black-berry and licorice. Smooth and subtle on the finish, this is ripe, stylish and ready to drink now. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $60

91 Alidis 2009 Reserva (Ribera del Duero). Smooth and lightly roasted on the bouquet, this

has tobacco, cola, fine oak and earthy berry aromas. It feels generous but a little soft and syrupy, with raisin, licorice and savory baked-fruit flavors. The finish is long and continues to be savory tasting. Drink now–2014. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $56

89 Pago de Sangara 2006 Selección Espe­cial Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). This

needs air to show its best, because at first it’s tight, mulchy and nutty. Early on, it feels clampy and scratchy, but it becomes better as it airs. The black fruit flavors are touched up by notes of oak, dried cheese and leath-er—characteristics that extend onto the finish. Quintes-sential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $62

89 Viña Mayor 2006 Secreto Reserva (Ri­bera del Duero). Attractive and fruity on the

front end, this has pure berry aromas but not a lot of nuance or complexity. It narrows a bit on the palate, with tight tannins that support the black fruit and coffee flavors. Juicy, bright and solid on the finish. Habarcelo North America. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Resalte 2006 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). This is a bit mulchy and leathery on the nose,

with stalky berry aromas. The heavy palate feels wide, with pointed acidity, bearing soupy flavors of vanilla and

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cream. It finishes with lots of flavor but a syrupy feel. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $41

TORO

90 Campo Alegre 2009 Toro. This is jammy, ripe and raisiny smelling, then round, full,

slightly choppy and tannic on the palate. Ample oak lends coconut and vanilla elements that support the blackberry flavor. Creamy and fairly oaky on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

88 Monte Hiniesta 2009 Toro. Berry candy and licorice aromas become more subtle and earthy

with air. It feels grabby and abrasive as many Toro’s are prone to be, with blackberry and root notes and a sugar beet flavor. The slightly hot, candied finish holds onto that rooty character. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

87 Pictor 2009 12 Meses (Toro). This smells like horseradish and beets at first, but with time

it softens up to reveal cleaner black fruit and maple aro-mas. It feels grabby and gritty, with strong tannic bite and black fruit flavors. It retains a ruggedness on the fin-ish, along with molasses and chocolate flavors. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

86 Bodegas Abanico 2009 Eternum Viti (Toro). This starts with funky, saucy aromas

that clean up and become less strange with airing. Rug-ged, tannic and bumpy on the palate, it has baked, rub-bery black-fruit flavors. It finishes short and drying, with hard tannins and heat. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

85 Familia Solana 2009 Toro. Milk chocolate, plastic and wet dog aromas improve with airing.

It’s abrasive and scratchy on the palate, with blackberry and milk chocolate flavors that lead to a finish with one last dosage of milk chocolaty sweetness. This contains 15% Garnacha. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

PRIORAT

90 Genium Celler 2007 Ecològic (Priorat). This is ultraripe and a bit raisiny on the nose,

but there are encouraging flashes of schisty minerali-ty and freshness. It feels jammy, full bodied and thick, with a baked black-fruit flavor and notes of licorice and tobacco. Smooth and earthy on the finish, with power to spare. Drink now–2014. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $46

89 Gratallops 2007 Partida Bellvisos (Prio­rat). Compared to the excellent 2006, this wine

is heavier, riper and jammier at every check point. The nose is baked and raisiny, while the palate feels saturat-ed to the extreme and gritty as well. The primary flavors run toward baked plum and blackberry, while licorice, leather and raisin notes carry the finish. Give this lots of

air after opening, about an hour or so. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $130

88 La Conreria d’Scala Dei 2009 La Conreria (Priorat). Gritty and raisiny up front, this has

notes of tar and jammy blackberry. It feels resiny and tough, with carob, chocolate, baked berry and roasted plum flavors. The chocolate element persists on the fin-ish, which is big, tannic and lasting. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

UTIEL-REQUENA

87 Artemayor NV IV Bobal (Utiel­Requena). From Dominio de la Vega, this dark Bobal has a

rubbery, chunky, dark-fruited nose. The full-bodied pal-ate is round and lusty, with extracted plum, berry and chocolate flavors. The finish is long, with drying tannins. A.W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $46

87 Finca Casa Lo Alto 2009 Crianza (Utiel­Requena). This starts out smelling gaseous

and rubbery, though with time it settles on herbal, leafy and minty notes. It feels soft, chunky and wide, with a baked, spicy berry flavor. The finish is chewy and earthy. A blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

86 Corolilla 2009 Crianza Viñas Viejas Bobal (Utiel­Requena). Woodsy, perfumed and light

on the nose, this has rosebud and lemon peel aromas. The palate shows a touch of resiny oak, with flavors of raspberry and chocolate, ending with a hint of vanilla. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

84 Finca Casa Lo Alto 2008 Reserva (Utiel­Requena). The cola and licorice aromas are

candied and easygoing. This feels acidic and snappy, with red cherry and berry flavors that end with a crisp, sheer, rugged feel. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $35

82 Ossiam 2010 Made with Organically Grown Grapes Tempranillo (Utiel­Reque­

na). Dry and overly crisp throughout, this is light and peppery smelling, with notes of oregano and tomato leaf. It feels astringent and dry, with peppery, earthy fla-vors. Steve Miles Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

80 Dominio de la Vega 2010 Bobal (Utiel­Requena). Cherry and plum aromas lead to a

choppy, rubbery-feeling palate. It tastes soupy, herbal and briney. A.W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

ALMANSA

90 Atalaya 2010 Alaya Garnacha (Almansa). This smells of baked black fruit, coconut, vanilla

and char, with a palate that’s ultrasaturated and almost cloying. The compact flavors are of concentrated black-

berry liqueur and cassis, which narrow to berry and oak notes on the finish. Gil Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $35

89 Atalaya 2010 La Atalaya Garnacha­Mon­astrell (Almansa). Big, smoky and concen-

trated on the nose, this has a ton of black fruit and char notes. This is mouth-filling, deep and powerful stuff, with a potent mash of baked blackberry, molasses and barbecue sauce filling in the flavor profile. It finishes long and roasted, with savory oak and saucy spice fla-vors. A blend of 85% Garnacha and 15% Monastrell. Gil Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $16

87 Atalaya 2010 Laya Old Vines (Almansa). For full review see page 13. Best Buy.

abv: 14.5% Price: $9

83 Santa Quiteria 2010 Altitud 1.100 Garna­cha Tintorera Garnacha (Almansa). This

has a reedy red-berry aroma and a citrus note. Confir-mation of the bouquet comes on the palate, which is lean and scouring, with red plum, pomegranate and herb flavors. The finish is cleansing, but it doesn’t show much substance. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

81 Bodegas Tintoralba 2010 BT Tintorera Garnacha (Almansa). Right from the start

things are stretched thin. It smells raw and feels dilute, with flavors of sour plum and a bit of wood resin. Fiery and tart on the finish. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

JUMILLA

93 El Nido 2009 Red (Jumilla). For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 15.5% Price: $140

92 El Nido 2009 Clio (Jumilla). Opaque to the eye, this has a bouquet that’s tightly sealed with

aromas of oak, tobacco and cola, and a baked, minty note. Saturated but not syrupy, this has roasted, savory flavors of clove, nutmeg, hickory and baked blackber-ry. It remains roasted, deep and delicious on the finish. This is entirely modern, full bodied and excellent as a whole. Gil Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $45

88 Bodegas Bleda 2009 Divus Monastrell (Jumilla). Black in color and dense on the

nose, this has well-oaked aromas of black fruit, lemon peel and cedar. It feels full and fresh, with good acidity and prickly tannins. It tastes juicy and clean, with berry, black plum, vanilla, tobacco and spice flavors that carry through onto the finish. Novo Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19

86 Altos del Cuco 2010 Red (Jumilla). Inter-esting aromas of brick dust, mint, fall leaf and

dried fruit seem traditional and familiar. The palate is tight, tannic and rubbery, with roasted, savory flavors of spiced berry and plum. Oak, prune and fig notes work the firm finish. Opici Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

86 Castillo de Jumilla 2010 Monastrell (Ju­milla). This begins with a light red-fruit aroma

that falls into the cherry-berry vein. It feels bouncy, rub-bery and pleasant, with roasted, rubbery berry and sa-vory spice flavors. The finish is light on fruit but good in feel. Novo Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $9

85 Bodegas Silvano Garcia 2010 Viña Hon­da Monastrell (Jumilla). This offers grassy,

ashy aromas of green-leaning berry and plum fruits. It feels grabby and choppy, with berry flavors that lead to a dry, lightly herbal-tasting finish. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

85 Torre Castillo 2010 Alegre Monastrell (Jumilla). Nervy raspberry and cherry aromas

come with a pinch of green herb. It feels astringent yet structured and crisp, with edgy red-berry and herb fla-vors. Lively, fiery and mildly acidic on the finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

82 Bodegas Luzón 2011 Luzon Verde Mon­astrell (Jumilla). Medicinal and leathery, this

has an iodine aroma that takes the luster off the fruit. It feels short and choppy, with medicinal, gritty flavors of vitamin, red berry and red licorice. Juicy but edgy; tasted twice. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $9

VALDEPEÑAS

87 Anciano 2005 Reserva Aged 5 Years Tempranillo (Valdepeñas). A subdued rasp-

berry aroma are sets up the elegant palate, with perky red-plum and raspberry flavors. It finishes dry, clean and slightly complex. Well-Oiled Wine Company. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

85 Viña Albali 2011 Tempranillo (Valdepe­ñas). For full review see page 13. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $8

83 Bodegas Navarro López 2009 Old Vines Crianza Tempranillo (Valdepeñas). A jam-

my raspberry aroma comes with milk chocolate and plastic scents. It feels pulpy yet spunky, with red plum and strawberry flavors. The mild finish doesn’t evolve or expand, but it registers as being fresh. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

82 Bodegas Los Llanos 2004 Pata Negra Gran Reserva Tempranillo (Valdepeñas).

Heavy oak-based aromas provide cover for the grassy, green scents. It feels clunky and grabby, with jumbled flavors of sweet oak and green-leaning fruit. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

82 Bodegas Navarro López 2007 Old Vines Reserva Tempranillo (Valdepeñas). This

smells cheesy and tomatoey, with a woody accent. Clampy, resiny and drying on the palate, this has lean

tea and cherry flavors that are complemented by a dull oak tone. The finish is minty and resiny tasting, but hol-low in feel. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

81 Pagos del Rey 2010 Diego de Almagro Tempranillo (Valdepeñas). This is rusty

in color, with burnt leaf and dried earth aromas. Dry-ing and hard on the palate, it has an earthy, leafy set of strained red-fruit flavors. Bitter and rough on the finish. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

LA MANCHA

87 Senda 66 2010 Tempranillo (La Mancha). This is an exotic wine with aromas of graham

cracker, blueberry, violet petal and pastry. It feels lush, grabby, chewy and tannic, with heavy flavors of clove, black licorice, savory berry and baked plum. The finish is dominated by oak, with clove and resiny barrel notes that compete with the wine’s fresher dark-fruit compo-nent. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

86 Campos de Viento 2010 Old Vine Tem­pranillo (La Mancha). The cherry and ber-

ry aromas are friendly and ripe. It feels flush, edgy and a little tannic, with a fresh berry flavor that’s bundled with a touch of herb. The tasty berry flavor holds form on the medium-length finish. Vinergia Spanish Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

84 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez 2005 El Vínculo Tempranillo (La Mancha). A gran-

ular, horsey note is the greeting, and never does this tru-ly find its sweet spot. The aromas are raisiny, while the palate is angular and acidic. Flavors of tomato, herb, to-bacco and plum don’t quite find their footing. The finish is thick and tastes of molasses, carob and herb. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $32

84 Finca Antigua 2009 Garnacha (La Man­cha). This is spicy and dry on the nose, with a

cheesy accent. It feels medium in body, with sharp acid-ity that creates a semisour flavor profile of red plum and cherry. Not overly flavorful, it concludes with a crisp, cleansing finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

84 Finca Vieja 2007 Crianza Tempranillo (La Mancha). This has raisin, earth, mint and dried

herb aromas. It feels narrow, but concentrated, tasting of earthy tomato, baked plum and fresh green herb. It has a solid mouthfeel, with a mildly briney finish. A. Hardy Usa. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

84 J. Garcia Carrion 2011 Opera Prima Tem­pranillo (La Mancha). For full review see

page 14. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $6

83 Finca Vieja 2010 Tempranillo (La Man­cha). A leathery, herbal aroma outmuscles the

distant berry and cherry scents. It feels hard and high in acidity, with raspberry and snappy red-plum flavors. It’s citrusy and crisp on the finish, with lasting tang. A. Hardy Usa. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $8

83 Finca Vieja 2004 Reserva Tempranillo (La Mancha). There’s virtually no bouquet to this

wine, and the palate follows suit with a flat feel and hol-low, faded flavors of balsamic-doused cherry and herb. It seems aged and dried out. A. Hardy Usa. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

83 Gladium 2009 Crianza Tempranillo (La Mancha). Stewy yet flush, with shearing acids,

this has a meaty, leafy aroma that sets up the angular palate. Flavors of stewed berry, spiced tomato and burnt leaves turn slightly bitter on what amounts to a short fin-ish. American Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

82 Gladium 2010 Tempranillo (La Mancha). This smells reedy and scratchy, turning more

herbal with time in the glass. Astringent acids create a sharp mouthfeel, and while the flavors include raspber-ry and strawberry, there’s also a weedy component that picks up speed as the wine breathes. American Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

81 Finca Antigua 2008 Crianza (La Mancha). A sappy wild-berry aroma turns mulchy with

airing. The palate feels sharp and puckery, with very high acidity that creates short, tart, ultrajuicy raspberry and red plum flavors. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

80 Rojo Mojo 2010 Tempranillo (La Man­cha). Berry and plum aromas come with hints

of smoke and asphalt. The very high acidity creates a shearing mouthfeel, and the flavors never evolve past tart red plum and cranberry. Well-Oiled Wine Compa-ny. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

TIERRA DE CASTILLA

88 Ziries 2008 Garnacha (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Raisin and heavy plum aromas

suggest full ripeness and even some overripeness. It feels chewy and textured, with serious concentration and baked flavors of dark berry and roasted plum. This tips the scale in terms of weight and ripeness, delivering a deep, roasted character that calls for near-term con-sumption Ole Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

87 Maximo 2010 Edicion Limitada Tempra­nillo (Tierra de Castilla). This is rubbery and

spicy smelling, with solid berry and plum aromas in ad-dition to a hint of cinnamon. It feels a little snappy as spicy, dry red-plum and raspberry flavors take over. A touches of wood and related spice work the finish. Fred-erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

WineMag.com | 73

87 Volteo 2010 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tier­ra de Castilla). This is clean, fruity and ap-

pealing, with no aromas or flavors of heavy oak or weedy, roasted fruit. It offers cherry and berry flavors, with a healthy, quick finish that ends on a vanilla and mild spice note. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 Almez 2009 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tier­ra de Castilla). Raisiny on the nose, but even

with the bouquet’s overripeness, it settles on the palate, showing fresh raisin and cassis flavors, with just enough acidity to keep it balanced. Jammy and short on the fin-ish. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

84 Mano A Mano 2009 Ribota Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Thick and

pasty smelling, this has roasted berry scents that are slightly leathery. It’s scratchy and mildly astringent on the palate, tasting minty and dry, with a mild fruit con-tent. The finish is chunky and resiny. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

83 El Furioso 2009 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). This is sharp

smelling, with aromas of field greens, rhubarb and scratchy spices. It’s light in weight, with short, herbal and spicy flavors that center on a strawberry note. Clas-sic Wines Of California. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $12

OTHER RED WINES

91 Clos Ventana 2006 Red (Navarra). Con-centrated and rich up front, this has black fruit

aromas of prune, blackberry and cassis, with notes of beef and herb. It feels full bodied, filling all corners of the palate. Flavors of black cherry, plum and black cur-rant are ripe, while jammy characteristics of fruit cake and prune work the mellow finish. A blend of 60% Tem-pranillo, 30% Cabernet and 10% Merlot. European Heritage Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

90 Guelbenzu 2009 Vierlas (Ribera del Queiles). The bouquet is robust, with bold

aromas of berry, tobacco, root and tree bark. It feels flush, full and balanced, with licorice and blackberry fla-vors that are backed by nice acidity. This is a grabby and meaty blend of 80% Syrah, 10% Merlot and 10% Gra-ciano. Classical Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

89 Cruz Montesa 2009 Red (Alicante). Mossy, earthy and damp smelling, this has roasted plum

and berry aromas that suggest savory things to come. It feels rich, with good acidity and a thick overall texture. Saucy plum, berry, tomato and herb flavors finish with barbecue, vanilla and tobacco accents. This is a blend of Monastrell, Syrah and Tempranillo, with 500 cases pro-duced. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 Pazos del Rey 2009 Sila Mencía (Monter­rei). The raspberry and boysenberry aromas

have a minerally side and force. Things run zesty in the mouth, with red fruit flavors of plum and raspberry. The finish is healthy, with a flavors of dry oak and cocoa. This is fresh, alert and focused. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

88 Principe de Viana 2006 Reserva (Navar­ra). Harmonious on the bouquet, this has aro-

mas of berry, marzipan and nutmeg. It feels a little acid-ic but that adds freshness to the package. The flavors of earthy, roasted fruits are a touch salty, and the finish tastes briney and baked, with notes of coffee and toast. A blend of 65% Tempranillo, 20% Merlot and 15% Ca-berent Sauvignon. European Heritage Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

88 Rafael Cambra 2009 Soplo Garnacha (Valencia). Red berry and plum aromas form

the base of this wine’s fresh, uncomplicated bouquet. It feels juicy and bright, with good layering and aggressive flavors of berry and plum. The finish is dry and snappy, with mild oak and spice flavors. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

87 Avanthia 2009 Mencía (Valdeorras). This is a char-broiled Mencía that’s a lot more about

oak and barrel influence than anything else. Aromas run from blackened meat to barbecue, with a saucy berry note. It feels round, full and resiny from the copious oak aging, with dominating flavors of wood, char and toast, along with related notes of cinnamon, nutmeg and clove. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $49

87 Gaba do Xil 2010 Mencía (Valdeorras). This smells red and reedy up front, with a

punch-like aroma that comes with a nice hint of fresh herb. It’s fresh in feel, with brushy red-fruit flavors of currant, raspberry and plum. The finish is floral and lik-able. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $19

87 Peza do Rei 2009 Mencía (Ribeira Sa­cra). The riary aromas have a floral accent as

well as a leathery side. It feels bouncy and composed, with a good mouthfeel and solid flavors of spiced rasp-berry and red plum. Oaky but vibrant on the finish. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $19

86 Atalaya do Mar 2010 Mencía (Monterrei). Fresh berry and cherry aromas come with a

pinch of lemon and also a rose note. It has a tangy, fresh feel and snappy, semitart flavors of red plum and rasp-berry. Limited and short on the finish, but zesty all the way through. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

86 Lorca 2009 Monastrell (Bullas). Jumbled aromas of medicinal fruit, rubber and oak knit

together with airing. The palate is clampy and angular but healthy, with a roasted black-fruit flavor that’s ac-cented by an herbal, medicinal note. This is big-boned, with a medicinal side. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

85 Bodegas Medina 2011 Jaloco Joven (Ri­bera del Guadiana). Ripe, minty and exuber-

ant on the front end, this has a hint of animal in addition to a note of blueberry. Saturated and simple, this has a ripe red-berry flavor that comes across as red licorice. Fruity and fun. Rio Tinto Export Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $10

85 Marqués de Valdueza 2007 Gran Vino de Guarda (Extremadura). Gaseous berry

aromas settle on pepper, oregano and earth tones. It feels tight, full and potent, with herbal, peppery flavors of black fruit and licorice. This turns more meaty and pumped up as it unfolds—much more rugged than re-fined. Vinea Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

83 Marqués de Valdueza 2009 Valdueza (Ex­tremadura). Gaseous and minerally on first

blush, it has funky, earthy aromas of leaves and olive that could use a hit of freshness. It feels grabby and scratchy, with an olive flavor and a hot finish that has a latex-like character. This is a big wine that misses some elegance. Vinea Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

83 Telmo Rodríguez 2010 Al Muvedre Tinto Joven Monastrell (Alicante). Roasted and

stalky smelling, this has earthy berry and tomato aro-mas. It feels a bit flat, with a stewed, saucy red-berry flavor. The finish is adequate, with oak-based clove and herb notes. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

82 Bodegas Medina 2011 Jaloco Roble (Ri­bera del Guadiana). Jammy and candied

smelling, this has a green element akin to alfalfa or mint. It’s clampy, tannic and high in acid, with raspberry and plum notes that offer an oak offset. The flavors turn tangy and sharp on the finish, even as a heavy vanilla fla-vor settles in. Rio Tinto Export Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

82 Finca La Estacada 2010 6 Meses en Bar­rica Tempranillo (Uclés). Intersting up front,

with savory, roasted aromas of smoky plum and barbe-cue. It feels bullish and punishing, bearing monster tan-nins and heavy extraction, with a roasted, charred flavor that leads to an all-out resiny, burnt-wood-tasting finish. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

81 Raimat 2007 Castell de Raimat Tempra­nillo (Costers del Segre). Spice and tire

rubber aromas shadow hard, dry berry scents. It feels bumpy and scattershot, with a pasty, oaky flavor and fi-ery acidity. The finish is overly oaky and invasive. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

SHERRY

92 Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV 20 Yr. Baco Imperial Amontillado (Jerez). Reticent car-

amel and walnut aromas come with a peach scent. It feels nice as it glides across the palate, with nervy, salty flavors of dried apricots and nuts. Toffee and peanut are

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

the lead flavors on the classy finish. Only 300 cases were produced. Colección Internacional del Vino. —M.S. abv: 19.5% Price: $80

92 Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV 30 Yr. Old Baco Imperial Oloroso (Jerez). This is lush

smelling but dry at the same time, with touches of car-amel and cola gracing the bouquet. It feels tight and pinched, but precise, with dried citrus, toffee and hazel-nut flavors. The finish is briney, complex and very long. Only 300 cases were made. Colección Internacional del Vino. —M.S. abv: 19.5% Price: $100

91 Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Oxford 1.970 Pedro Ximénez (Jerez). For full review see

page 12. Best Buy. abv: 17% Price: $15/500 ml

90 Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Amontillado Sherry (Jerez). With a nose of toffee, dried

apricot, cocoa powder and rancio, this is classic off-dry amontillado. It feels fresh and active, then tastes rich and moderately sweet, with flavors of hazelnut, caramel, toasted banana, orange and spice. Nutty and smooth on the finish. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $15

90 Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Cream Sher­ry Sherry (Jerez). Golden-brown in color,

this has heady aromas of cola, nut, nutmeg, root beer and caramel. It feels full, slightly rich and properly cut, with coffee, toffee, chocolate and honey flavors. A balanced but elevated dessert-style Sherry that gets it right. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $15

87 Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Bulería Fino Sherry (Jerez). A mild stone-fruit aroma

comes with rancio and butterscotch hints. It feels dry and fresh, with good body weight and crisp, briney fla-vors that are accented by notes of salted nut and dried apricot. Mild on the finish, with medium length and drive. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $17

86 Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Manzanil­la Riá Pitá D.O. Sanlucar de Barrameda

Sherry (Jerez). This is a touch wheaty and creamy on the nose, with moderate oxidation for a manzanilla. Lemony acidity keeps things tangy and crisp, while the flavors are fresh and nutty, with controlled acidic sharp-ness. Dry nut notes and an apricot-related tang carry the finish. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $10/500 ml

DESSERT WINES

92 Jorge Ordoñez & Co. 2008 Victoria 2 (Málaga). For full review see page 8.

abv: 13% Price: $26/375 ml

91 D.G. Viticultors NV Caligo Sweet White Wine (Spain). After a waxy opening, the bou-

quet unveils honey and peach aromas that are totally inviting. It feels thick but not cloying, and the honeyed flavors of banana, peach and dulce de leche are a pre-

lude to the creamy, thick and deeply layered finish. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Albariño make the blend. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $50/375 ml

90 Casa de la Ermita 2010 Dulce Monastrell (Jumilla). The blackberry, boysenberry and

cinnamon aromas are exotic and attractive. It offers a ton of body in support of concentrated flavors of black fruit, fudge and spice. The finish is long, with notes of chocolate, pepper and some elegance. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $24/500 ml

90 D.G. Viticultors NV Petit Caligo Sweet White Wine (Spain). This is soft and lush on

the nose, with a slightly lacquer-like scent. The palate feels thick but nicely acidic, keeping it on an even keel. Flavors of honey, apricot and preserved papaya set up a fleshy, plump finish that brings it all home. A blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Chardonnay. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 10.5% Price: $35/375 ml

88 Marqués de Valdueza 2009 Vendimia Tar­dia Late Harvest (Extremadura). Rusty

in color, this has leathery aromas that include dried cheese and fallen leaf. Forward, fruity and full of acid-ity, it tastes of roasted black fruit, caramel and molas-ses. The fresh acidity ensures that it doesn’t come across too forcefully or heavy. Cabernet and Merlot is the mix. Vinea Imports. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $24/375 ml

88 Jorge Ordoñez & Co. 2008 Selección Es­pecial 1 (Málaga). This is friendly on the nose

with a melon scent. It feels fresh and not too challenging on palate, with nectarine, peach and mango flavors. The finish isn’t too firm, but it doesn’t fall apart. A simple, sweet casual quaffer. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $19

87 Bodegas Bleda 2011 Amatus Dulce Mon­astrell (Jumilla). Midnight purple in color,

this has legs as thick as an elephant’s. It smells like boy-senberry jam, spice and bacon, then feels like motor oil on the palate, with flavors of black fruit, chocolate and boysenberry syrup. It lacks complexity, but it hits hard with concentration, power and sweetness. Novo Im-ports. —M.S. abv: 16.9% Price: $22/375 ml

84 Bodegas Medina 2007 Marqués de Bada­joz El Marqués Dulce Cabernet Sauvi­

gnon (Extremadura). Rubber, flower petal and can-died fruit aromas comprise the unique bouquet. The palate is solid but edgy, bearing grabby tannins and heaviness, with sweet flavors of blackberry, cassis and pepper. Monotone on the finish, then bitter at the very end. This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Rio Tinto Ex-port Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18/500 ml

84 Finca Antigua 2010 Naturalmente Dulce Moscatel (La Mancha). Aromas of canned

peaches and apricots are about all one can pull from the bouquet. It feels solid and untamed, with juicy flavors

that run straight to mango, Dole peach and sweetened papaya. It’s short on character and complexity but big on sweet, sticky flavors. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $23/375 ml

WineMag.com | 75

CHOCOLATE & COFFEE FLAVORED VODKAS

93 Stolichnaya Chocolat Razberi (Latvia; William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ). The

photo on the frosted-glass bottle is drool-inducing: a raspberry dripping with chocolate. On the palate, lus-cious notes of raspberry and cocoa linger, and the des-sert-like aroma beckons from a half-foot away. Mix it with pomegranate juice and lemon, served in a martini glass. abv: 37.5% Price: $27/1 L

92 Wave Chocolate Covered Pretzel Vodka (USA; Sazerac Company, Chicago, IL).

This is an unusual and compelling entrant to the flavored-vodka market. Riding the salty-sweet des-sert trend (think salted caramel), this spirit has warm, rich, hazelnut-like aromas and flavors, with an intrigu-ing umami note. It’s surprisingly rich and velvety for a vodka. abv: 30% Price: $9

90 Van Gogh Double Espresso Vodka (Hol­land; Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL).

For full review see page 12.abv: 35% Price: $27

89 Van Gogh Dutch Chocolate Vodka (Hol­land; Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL). An

infusion of cocoa beans provides a faint brownish tinge to this otherwise nearly clear spirit. It’s sweet on the pal-ate, with lingering fudge-like and milk-caramel notes. abv: 35% Price: $27

87 Alchemia Chocolate Infused Vodka (Po­land; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New

York, NY). From the makers of an outstanding wild-cherry-flavored vodka comes this chocolate offering, in the same striking, tall, pyramid-shaped bottle. Made with Polish cocoa, the vodka is a light translucent amber, with a bold hazelnut and cocoa aroma. Though it has a rich chocolate flavor that carries through to a complex finish of nuts and cigar tobacco, it is fairly hot. Serve over ice. abv: 40% Price: $29

86 Van Gogh Rich Dark Chocolate Vodka (Holland; Van Gogh Imports, Orlando,

FL). Infused with semisweet chocolate, this translu-cent dark-brown vodka has rich, pleasing chocolate and espresso tones. A distinct sweet, waxy note is reminis-cent of scented candles. abv: 35% Price: $27

86 Pure Iceberg Ice Infusions Chocolate Mint Flavored Vodka (Canada; Admiral

Imports, Cedar Grove, NJ). For full review see page 12.abv: 35% Price: $15

84 Voli Espresso Vanilla Fusion (France; Palm Bay International, Port Washington,

NY). Made in Cognac, France, this spirit has 80 calo-ries pre serving compared to the 100 that most vod-kas have. The aromatics lean toward the waxy side. It’s mildly flavored, with more vanilla than espresso on the palate, and a floral note that seems out of place. abv: 30% Price: $23

UNFLAVORED VODKA

92 Bimber Vodka (Poland; Myssura Trad­ing, Harrison, NJ). Nicely balanced and neu-

tral, this winter wheat-based vodka is light and soft on the palate, with just a touch of vanilla sweetness. A top choice for citrusy cocktails. abv: 40% Price: $25

90 Boyd & Blair Potato Vodka (USA; Ameri­can Still Life, VA). This potato-based vodka

from a small-scale Pennsylvania producer provides a versatile canvas for a wide array of drinks. With its light-ly fruity aromas and flavors and a clean finish, it’s also lovely neat. abv: 40% Price: $37

89 Clear10 Vodka (USA: Good Spirits Distill­ing, Olathe, KS). This vodka has a nice citrusy

zing and a clean finish, bearing a neutral scent with a hint of citrus. The bottle is eye-catching, with a wavy, tactile shape.abv: 40% Price: $23

88 Shpilka (Kyrgyzstan; Phenix Brands, Kansas City, MO). Distilled from Russian

wheat, this has a lightly fruity scent and a sweet flavor, with a silky feel and a marshmallow-like finish. The word “shpilka” is the Russian word for “stiletto heel,” and it’s clear that the target demographic is women. The product is packaged in a lean, frosted bottle with a graphic of a woman in a sexy red dress. abv: 40% Price: $22/1 L

87 Mile High Vodka (USA; Nexus Brands, Denver, CO). Made using “ice-cold spring

waters” and Midwestern-grown grains, this vodka has a sweet, milky scent and a sweet flavor, with a crisp finish. Light in feel, this is overall clean and neutral. abv: 40% Price: $15

87 Ocean Vodka (USA; Hawaii Sea Spirits, Maui, HI). Attention ecoconscious tipplers:

This product is certified organic, made with organic cane sugar and desalinated ocean water sourced from 3,000 feet below the big island of Hawaii. A portion of the proceeds from this product benefit organizations that work to conserve ocean resources. With its sweet, lightly vanilla aroma and flavor and island provenance, consider this vodka for sunny tropical drinks. abv: 40% Price: $33

87 VuQo (The Philippines; VuQo Spirits, Santa Clara, CA). Technically, this fiery coco-

nut-nectar distillate is considered lambanog in its native Philippines rather than “premium vodka,” as the label states, but that’s splitting hairs. Look for a sugary aroma and a coconutty flavor, with a vanilla note on the finish. It has an almost effervescent feel, becoming drying on the finish. abv: 40% Price: $22

87 Twenty 2 Micro Distilled Vodka (USA; Northern Maine Distilling Co., Houlton,

ME). This spirit is microdistilled in 50-gallon batches in northern Maine, yielding a neutral product with a bit

C heck the shelves of any wine and spir-its store, and it’s clear that dessert vod-kas are having a moment, becoming one

of the fastest-growing segments in the market. But dessert isn’t the only time these

treats are being consumed. Although after dinner may be the most common time to un-wind with a chocolate- or coffee-spiked cocktail, brunch time and the standard happy hour are also popular occasions for these libations.

Perhaps one reason for their popularity is that dessert-flavored vodkas don’t demand to be taken seriously. In fact, quite the opposite—flavored vodkas are becoming ever more fanci-ful. Indeed, one of the most interesting bottlings from this month’s roundup is the Chocolate Cov-ered Pretzel Vodka from Wave. At first, it’s easy to be taken aback by its flavor. Even the most ad-venturous drinker is likely to do a double take, and it’s whimsical enough to make you smile.

Upon consideration, it’s also remarkably on

trend. It bridges the intersection between the frenzy of confected flavors (cupcake frosting, cotton candy, fruit loops) and the trend of salty-sweet sensations used in mixology and pastry right now, such as Salted Karamel Vodka (a new release from Stoli, not reviewed below), salt tinc-tures used to help coax out flavors in cocktails and chocolate chip cookies sprinkled with sea salt.

That said, after trying Wave’s Chocolate Cov-ered Pretzel Vodka, tasting notes referenced nei-ther chocolate nor salty pretzel flavors. Instead, impressions included nutty flavors and a vague but enticing savoriness. And the greatest feature was its lush, velvety texture—an anomaly in the usually light-as-air vodka category.

Flavored vodkas already account for more than a quarter of all vodka sales, particularly among the young demographic. Will these fun flavors ramp up sales even further? Some would find that to be sweet news indeed. —Kara newman

SPIRITS

CHOCOLATE- AND COFFEE-FLAVORED VODKAS

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

of marshmallow sweetness. It feels a bit hot, but should do well when mixed. abv: 40% Price: $27

86 Soplica Vodka (Poland: CW Imports, New York, NY). This is slightly sweet and neu-

tral, with a faint citrus note on the finish. abv: 40% Price: $12

86 Vodka by Battistella (USA; Six Mile Creek Vineyard, Ithaca, NY). Made from a Seyval

Blanc wine base, this vodka has a sweet, fruity, warm quality, with a resiny note. Only limited quantities made. abv: 40% Price: $25/375 ml

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AMBER/RED ALES

90 Karl Strauss Red Trolley Ale (American Amber/Red Ale; Karl Strauss Brewing

Company, CA). This ale pours a bright mahogany color with garnet glimmers, and although the cream-colored head is thin, it leaves some decent lacing be-hind with each sip. As expected, it’s forward in roasted malt and toasted grain aromas and flavors, accented by notes of caramel sauce, red fruit, sweet spice and co-coa powder. There’s a solid hop presence throughout, but it takes a back seat to the malty core, providing just enough character to balance out the beer’s sweeter characteristics. Medium weight with a rich, toffee-in-fused finish. abv: 5.8% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

90 Karl Strauss Red Trolley Ale Off The Rails (Imperial American Red Ale; Karl

Strauss Brewing Company, CA). Off The Rails is Karl Strauss’ Red Trolley Ale kicked up a notch, dou-bling the original recipe with copious amounts of sweet caramel malts and earthy Willamette hops. It’s big and intense, loaded with rich aromas and flavors of cara-mel sauce, toffee, dried cherries, raisins, brown bread and resiny hops. There’s a slight slickness to the palate, somewhat viscous and thick, but it’s abruptly countered by medium carbonation and cleansing hop astringency. The medium-length finish is slightly warming, but long and sultry, with a decadent dark¬ fruit and light choco-late accent. abv: 8.5% Price: $8/22 oz

89 Odell 90 Shilling Ale (American Amber/Red Ale; Odell Brewing Co., CO). This is

Odell’s flagship beer—a take on a lightened-up, tradi-

tional Scottish Ale. Although it might not be as intense as conventional counterparts, it’s still packed with char-acter, yet wrapped up in an overall smooth and balanced experience. Notes of toasted biscuits, peanut shells and forward citrusy hops waft from the glass and transition onto the palate alongside accents of tropical fruit, citrus rind and a touch of fresh, soft caramel. A faint peppery spice and husky astringency linger on the close.abv: 5.3% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

88 New Belgium Fat Tire Amber Ale (Ameri­can Amber/Red Ale; New Belgium Brew­

ing Company, CO). As one of the first beers to achieve a cult-like status in the American craft-beer scene, Fat Tire is a little infamous. Overall, this is a well-made and impeccably balanced beer, albeit a bit straightforward. The malt leads the nose and palate, with forward bis-cuit, toasted grain and roasted nut notes throughout. It’s medium bodied, with a touch of an earthy hop flavor to add structure and some tannic grip to the palate and finish. abv: 5.2% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

88 Ninkasi Believer Double Red Ale (Impe­rial American Red Ale; Ninkasi Brewing

Company, OR). Ninkasi has built a reputation for bringing bold beers to the table, and this one doesn’t disappoint in that regard. An assertive, malty core domi-nates, creating an overall round impression and full tex-ture. Notes of caramel, biscuit, citrus rind and earthy hop abound, while a slight piney bitterness adds depth to the finish. abv: 6.9% Price: $4/22 oz

86 Barrel Trolley Amber Ale With Honey Added No. 5 (American Amber/Red Ale;

World Brews, NY). This easy-pleasing brew pours a medium amber color, with flecks of orangey copper when held up to a light. A honey note comes through on the nose, supported by the solid malt backbone. The mouthfeel is round but brisk and clean, with medium body and high carbonation. It’s dry and smooth on the finish, with a faint resiny hop hint in the background. abv: 4.5% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack

85 Metolius River Ales Rusty Spinner Am­ber Ale (American Amber/Red Ale; World

Brews, NY). An accessible and easy-drinking amber, this offers light characteristics of caramel malts, softly toasted bread and earthy hops. It’s just shy of medium weight, with brisk carbonation and a refreshing finish that bears a touch of lingering hop-driven astringency.abv: 5.1% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack

OTHER ALES

89 Alaskan Summer Kölsch­Style Ale (Kölsch; Alaskan Brewing Company,

AK). This refreshing brew pours a clear gold color, with a frothy off-white head that leaves a nice ring of lacing behind. Enticing fruit aromas of stone fruit, pear and green apple lead the bouquet and spice up the clean grain backbone. Secondary notes of soft flower and cit-rus peel add depth, unfolding with greater intensity on the palate alongside flavors of fresh wheat and bread dough. Balanced and refreshing, this has brisk efferves-cence and a pleasant hop bitterness that clings to the finish. abv: 5.3% Price: $4/22 oz

86 Alaskan Amber Alt Style Beer (Altbier; Alaskan Brewing Company, AK). This

brew is easy-drinking and refreshing, with a nice crisp-ness to the palate and a sweet yet clean finish. It’s medi-um copper in color, with a nose that offers light aromas of toasted grain and caramel malt. The palate boasts more of the same, with a bit more intensity, alongside accents of nutty bread, earthy spice and toffee. abv: 5.3% Price: $4/22 oz

AMBER LAGER

89 Karl Strauss Amber (Vienna Lager; Karl Strauss Brewing Company, CA). Formerly

labeled as “Amber Lager,” this brew was recently re-launched as “Karl Strauss Amber,” although the recipe remains the same. It’s clean and refreshing, with light toasted¬ biscuit and grain husk aromas. A bit more depth and weight unfold on the palate, with the car-amel-malt sweetness providing the mouthfeel a lightly creamy texture. The finish is crisp and lively, with a lin-gering malt flavor that’s augmented by notes of earthy hop and yeasty spice. abv: 4.5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

W ith summer long gone, autumn upon us and winter rapidly approaching, it’s the perfect time

of year for a transitional brew, one that will allow a smooth segue from wheat beers and summer seasonals into brews with a bit more heft and intensity. While it’s not quite time for winter warmers and stouts, amber and red ales are perfect choices for this intermediary period.

Something of a catch-all category, American-style amber/red ales includes examples ranging from light copper to amber to light brown in color. Typically high in maltiness, with low-to-medium caramel character and light fruitiness, American examples are usually characterized by their use of American hop varieties to produce hop bitterness ranging from soft to promounced.

Medium bodied, with moderate alcohol levels that usually fall in the 4%–7% range, these brews are toasty, hearty and flavorful, while remaining refreshing and clean. They also pair exceptionally well with traditional Thanksgiving fare—especially turkey.

American amber/red ales can also come in double or imperial styles, as in a few of the beers reviewed this month. Like all imperial or double offerings, these selections aim to rev things up to another level—most notably by raising the alcohol levels and the quantities of hops used, although malt additions can be intensified and varied as well. These brews are great options for chilly November nights, and pair well with robust fare like braised meats and stews.

Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo

BEER

AMBER AND RED ALES TO PAIR WITH THE SEASON