Wine list

Out of all the varieties, shiraz is arguably Australia’s wine powerhouse. With a total just shy of 170 samples between shiraz and shiraz dominant blends, for the first time the panel was split over two days. The first panel tasted wines from South Australia (which accounted for roughly half of the total submissions) while panel number two tasted wines from all other regions. Rob Geddes MW led the discussion. Report by Maurizio Corda.

Shiraz and blends

What the panel were looking forComplexity of aromatics and well-balanced wines with a medium to full structure, medium-firm finish and a little bit of fruit refreshment. More expensive price points will require structure, line, length and tannin. What might impress the consumer is that some $20 to $40 wines have a cellaring potential that can embarrass wines from the higher price categories ($60+). Other delectable characteristics are natural fruit, brightness and freshness. Less oak can make the wine prettier and with better acidity.

Comments from the panelOverall, the panel was very pleased with the quality and range of wines submitted. The first South Australia bracket contained good commercial wines that didn’t show “huge amounts of faults,” according to Scott. “The wines were simple and fruity, although some of them need more complex flavours,” he added. Lisa outlined the lack of regional variation in the lower price points: “Some stood out, but in general they were pretty much generic shiraz varietal. However, some were really approachable drinkable wines,” she said. Clive noticed a “lack of food friendly wines, but many crowd pleasers; the majority of the market will love them.” Everyone agreed that 2010 was a very good vintage. “Winemakers had very good fruit to play with,” said David. Another interesting find was that no brand tried to emulate the European style at this price point. In summary, Rob noted: “Positives: much better fruit definition with a great 2010 vintage. Negatives: the wines can be a bit generic but are overall pleasant.”

For the higher price points, regionality became increasingly important. Wines from the second bracket were “easier on the mouth than the first bracket,” and a lot of praise went to the 2008s. While

the Limestone Coast and Coonawarra showed their typical minty and leafy characteristics, the Clare Valley surprised the panel with its lift and balance. “The Clare Valley wines weren’t as jammy as expected, there was more lift,” said Lisa. Scott added: “Clare wines had a lovely balanced palate.” Australia’s shiraz powerhouse the Barossa Valley was described by Clive as producing “lovely consumer driven wines.” “David added: “To me, the problem with shiraz is that Barossa is almost too big,” he said. “I found McLaren Vale’s sweet spice very attractive. I’ve also noticed some regionality coming from Langhorne Creek,” added Clive, concluding our first tasting day.

Much of the discussion on day two was around regionality. The panel noticed a lack of big Victorian wines. “In terms of regionality, people aren’t getting the difference,” said Danielle. “There’s a slow memorability,” added Aaron. “If people get a ripe Orange shiraz they want to remember it. It’s all about getting people back to the cellar door. It’s a great platform for the winery to tell the stories behind the brand and the wine. Anything that communicates that sort of message is positive; it gives a sense of place.” Rob agreed, stating that “when someone visits a region, they’ve already made the decision. Good winemakers come and go, the region stays the same.”

Michael was very pleased with the middle-priced categories. “The middle-priced categories were excellent value for money. Most affordable $20 wines were exceptional, with complexity and balance,” he said. “The best wines had purity of fruit, with a measured handling of oak, firm but not dominant tannins, mid-weight palate, not overt or jammy,” said Aaron. “There was great quality in the Hunter Valley from 2007 to 2010 which was very impressive. Great acidity, bright fruit and pure drinkability,” he added.

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Zeppelin Single Vineyard Shiraz 2010RRP: $19

Region: Barossa Valley

Distributed by: Echelon Wine Partners

Notes: Notes of banana, caramel, pepper and black

cherry on the nose; intense, complex and

fruit driven; earthy and luscious with thick

soft tannins and a good, warming length.

Hardys HRBD646 Shiraz 2008RRP: $25.99

Region: McLaren Vale

Distributed by: Accolade Wines

Notes:Deep ink in colour, it shows dry berries with

big oak and christmas cake notes on the nose,

followed by a medium bodied palate of sweet

fruit, cedar oak, leather, sweet vanilla; has depth

of fruit, rich structure, good balance, medium

intensity and medium length; supple and fresh.

Metala Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2008RRP: $27

Region: Langhorne Creek

Distributed by: Treasury Wine Estates

Notes:The nose displays minty notes, jammy cherry,

and dried herbs; a dry, medium-bodied wine that

is lip-licking and warm; lifted jam, liquorice and

black fruit flavours; well-developed spicy, earthy

and cedary characters; displays a well-balanced,

savoury profile; elegant with massive length.

The panel selection was as follows:

Class 1: South Australia

Kangarilla Road Charlie’s Blend Red 2010RRP: $15

Region: McLaren Vale

Distributed by: Bacchus Wine Merchants,

NSW/ACT/QLD; Muster Wine Co,

SA; Wine Profile, TAS; Nelson Wine

Company, VIC; Terra Wines, WA

Notes:Nose of sweet, rich dark cherries with

a green olive edge; mid-length palate of

dark fruits with slight bitterness; some

aged oaky notes with soft tannins; a good,

modern, dry style; a crowd pleaser.

Chateau Tanunda Barossa Tower Shiraz 2010RRP: $18

Region: Barossa Valley

Distributed by: Chateau Tanunda Estate Wines

Notes:An exotic nose with some ripe plum and

minerality; a generous and complex palate;

firm but with some juicy shiraz fruit; a long

and balanced finish with some lovely tannins

and dry oak; a rich, traditional style.

Taylors Estate Shiraz 2010RRP: $18.95

Region: Clare Valley

Distributed by: Taylors Wines

Notes:A minty, herbal nose with lifted pretty floral

notes; a well-integrated smooth palate

with juicy sweet fruits and blackberry jam;

nicely exotic and ripe with a mineral edge;

good tannins and nice oak flavour.

Lisa Johnston, Wine educator, writer and wine business consultant

Clive Hartley, course director and senior wine teacher, Sydney Wine Academy.

Scott McWilliam, winemaker, McWilliam’s Wines.

Rob Geddes, Master of Wine, wine writer, author of Australian Wine Vintages.

The Panel

David Madew, fine wine manager, Dan Murphy’s.

Aaron Brasher, regional director - Australia and emerging markets, Wine Australia

Michael Hatcher, general manager – winemaker, Hungerford Hill Wines.

Ashley Pini, Editor – drinks trade.

Danielle Kennedy, Sales and marketing manager - Camperdown Cellars.

Denis Gastin, wine writer, wine educator and wine judge.

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Wynns V&A Lane Shiraz 2010RRP: $60

Region: Coonawarra

Distributed by: Treasury Wine Estates

Notes: Lovely concentrated mint and pepper aromas;

an elegant, well balanced palate with pepper,

black cherry, raspberry, cinnamon and complex

sandalwood oak spice; a fresh and vibrant

wine that is young and clean; lovely tannins

and good length; finishes firm and dry.

Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz 2008RRP: $90

Region: Barossa Valley

Distributed by: Four Seasons Fine Wines

Notes: Pure blackberry fruit compote; deeply ripe with

a lovely tannin grip; notes of Christmas cake;

soft mid-palate with plenty of fruit; subtle and

delicate medium-bodied front; lavish and powerful

with a lovely tannin finish; will age gracefully.

Hardy & Sons Eileen Hardy Shiraz 2007RRP: $103.99

Region: McLaren Vale

Distributed by: Accolade Wines

Notes:A deep, savoury nose with hints of leather;

sweet with powerful and supple mid-palate

fruit; notes of minty cloves and blackberry;

sticky but fresh with great fruit weight for a

2007 vintage; rich dark berry and mocha oak;

red and black cherry, lovely dried herb edge,

lots of balanced American oak; lovely ripe black

fruit flavours on the middle palate; very fine

tannins; a lovely fresh wine for the future.

Wynns Michael Shiraz 2009RRP: $130

Region: Coonawarra

Distributed by: Treasury Wine Estates

Notes:Exotic plum and black berry flavours and lots

of silky fine tannins; spicy dark fruits and

complex subtle oak; very long mid palate

with a lovely delicate and refined finish; full

bodied, dry and youthful; well-structured

and elegant; will age extremely well.

Killibinbin Shiraz 2008RRP: $30

Region: Langhorne Creek

Distributed by: Mezzanine Wine Distribution

Notes:Minty, cedary and blackberry notes on the

nose are followed by a mouthful of dried herbs,

berries and christmas cake; huge berry flavours

and sweetness; concentrated and smooth with

good fruit length; rich soft tannins; a herbal,

acidic and savoury expression that develops

nicely; a full-bodied offering with excellent

length of palate that is drinking extremely well.

Yalumba Hand Picked Shiraz Viognier 2009RRP: $36.95

Region: Eden Valley

Distributed by: Samuel Smith & Son

Notes:Lovely delicate sweet aromas of cloves, black

cherry and raspberry and some floral notes;

the palate is light but complex, lifted with good

black fruit; youthful, silky and delicate with

lovely tannins; well-integrated viognier provides

a lift and the typical viognier apricot finish.

Jim Barry Pb Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2006RRP: $50

Region: Clare Valley

Distributed by: Samuel Smith & Son

Notes:Elegant, balanced vanilla and floral notes on

the nose are followed by earthy, cinnamon and

blackberry flavours; excellent, complex lift and

lovely fruit; some lovely aged notes with fresh

fruits; A long and wonderful classic old style,

with big, ripe oak; smooth and intense with

a long berry fruit finish; a great food wine.

Taylors St Andrews Shiraz 2006RRP: $60

Region: Clare Valley

Distributed by: Taylors Wines

Notes: Great varietal definition; a lovely mature wine

with cedar aromas with a floral edge; the palate is

full of silky plum, chocolate, blackberry, jam and

clove flavours; some lovely complex aged notes

and an excellent sweet, long finish; a warm and

smooth wine that is gracefully holding its age.

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Class 2: South Eastern Australia

McWilliam’s Inheritance Shiraz Merlot 2010 RRP: $6.99

Region: South Eastern Australia

Distributed by: McWilliam’s Wines

Notes: A complex blend that is long and lingering;

inky, plum, with a spicy and overt oak

aroma; forward sweetness with added

tannin; notes of red berries, spice and

pepper; plummy, spicy, juicy and round with

long cherry oak; good quaffi ng wine.

[yellow tail] Reserve Shiraz 2010RRP: $14.99

Region: South Eastern Australia

Distributed by: Casella Wines

Notes:Rich and powerful, with notes of oak and dark

fruit spice and plum; rich and spicy, with long,

fi rm tannins; a solid wine; strong aromas of

vanilla and cola essence; complex for the price;

dry with good length and some bitterness.

Class 3: New South Wales

Westend Estate Cool Climate Series Shiraz 2010RRP: $15

Region: Hilltops

Distributed by: Westend Estate, NSW/ACT/

QLD/NT; WestAust Liquor Distributors, WA;

Calabria Wines, SA; Vintners Merchants,

VIC; David Johnstone & Associates, TAS

Notes:Soft, smooth and rich; a very complex wine

with nice balance; enjoyable, with lifted spice;

perfumed with elegant red/blue fruit; good acid,

fi rm tannins; bright, cool, sweet and syrupy.

Cumulus Rolling Shiraz 2010RRP: $18

Region: Central Ranges

Distributed by: Cumulus Wines

Notes: Good concentration of fruit; good cool

climate characteristics of clean fruit and

fi rm structure; subtle and elegant with rich

dark fruits; fi rm and long with good acid;

pleasant tamarillo fruit fl avour and a pretty fruit

compote; very complete, with soft tannins.

Thomas Wines Sweetwater Shiraz 2010RRP: $35

Region: Hunter Valley

Distributed by: Robert Oatley Vineyards

Notes:Complex and savoury; classy with a good soft

middle palate and generous fl avour; sustained

oak tannin fi nish; nicely balanced palate with

subtle tannins and good acidity; mid-weight

layered with a pretty perfume and long fi rm,

balanced tannins; thoughtfully constructed.

Hungerford Hill Collection Shiraz 2010RRP: $45

Region: Hunter Valley

Distributed by: Domaine Wine Shippers, NSW/

VIC/WA/QLD; George Street Wines, SA/NT

Notes: Spicy, berry fruit with hints of smoke; good

earthy oak; bright and complex; beautifully

dense; ssoft, rich and balanced with long

fl avours; has a cool, savoury element with oak

spice and peppery characters; soft palate; light

to medium bodied with a clean, fi ne fi nish.

Tyrrell’s Vat 8 Shiraz Cabernet 2009RRP: $91

Region: Hunter Valley, Hilltops

Distributed by:Tyrrell’s Wines

Notes:Savoury spices with a strong sense of fruit;

savoury oak with a great middle palate and good

depth of fl avour; good long tannins; complex;

very smooth and fresh, but also soft and pleasant

with layers of fl avour; mouth-watering. Rich,

round and structured; bright long and textured.;

lots of concentrated ripe berry and plum aromas

with a smoky undertone; a powerful wine.

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Class 5: Western Australia <b>

Goundrey Vineyards Homestead Shiraz 2010RRP: $16.99

Region: Western Australia

Distributed by: Accolade Wines

Notes: Lifted red fruit with a brown spice edge to the

aroma; big palate texture with clean acid; Good

complex notes from char barrels and nice fruit

tannins; slightly green, with a good backbone

and acid structure; rich and spicy showing blue

fruits; textured and well-structured; layered with

bright fruit; a very smart wine with zippy acid.

Amberley Wines Shiraz 2011RRP: $18.99

Region: Western Australia

Distributed by: Accolade Wines

Notes: Good colour and hue with red fruit aromas and

hints of liquorice; great fruit profi le of bright, red/

blue fruits and spice; perfumed and rich; textured

and mouth-fi lling; notes of strawberry jam;

bright and clean with chewy tannins. Complex,

with good colour and texture; will age well.

Voyager Estate Shiraz 2010RRP: $38

Region: Margaret River

Distributed by: Déjà Vu Wines

Notes:Glossy colour; very pretty and perfumed with

good fl oral notes; complex with good richness

and texture; a citrus/orange lifted wine that

is bright, fl eshy and juicy; mid-weight with

fi rm tannins; a rich and elegant wine.

Marchand & Burch Wines Australian Collection Shiraz 2008RRP: $65

Region: Margaret River

Distributed by: Marchand & Burch

Wines, WA/SA; Cogito Wines, NSW/

ACT/QLD; Wineorder, VIC

Notes: Good concentrated raspberry fruit; rich palate

with layers of fruit and good intensity; nice

dense plum, ripe berry fruits with spice;

perfumes of soft prunes; Lovely complex

depth and a fi rm fi nish; great length.

Class 4: Victoria

Under & Over Shiraz 2010RRP: $12.99

Region: Heathcote

Distributed by: Echelon Wine Partners

Notes:Very deep crimson hue; surprisingly rich

and concentrated for the price; big and

pleasing; juicy licorice fl avours with structured

fi rm tannins; balanced; good length.

Balgownie Estate Shiraz 2009RRP: $45

Region: Bendigo

Distributed by: Domaine Wine Shippers,

NSW/VIC/ACT/WA/SA; DWS Tasmania, TAS

Notes: Deeply complex with notes of savoury, oak,

fruit and cedar; lovely middle palate; good

line of tannins; great balance and cellaring

style; dark, dense and inky; rich and fi rm with

chewy, crumbly tannins; intense and big.

Brown Brothers Patricia Shiraz 2008 RRP: $55

Region: King Valley, Bendigo

Distributed by: Brown Brothers

Notes:A very appealing bouquet; a classical shiraz with

leafy, elegant fl avours including plum, mint and

menthol; fi rm, long and textured’ dark fruits

layer with pepper and spice; a juicy, rich texture

with fi ne oak integration; great oak with a big

middle palate; an old-fashioned cellaring wine.

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