wise energy guide

WiseEnergy Guide

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CONSERVE • SAVE • COMFORT


Cons

erva

tion At Union Gas, we take the word ‘conservation’

to heart. It’s our goal to help you conserve natural

gas with this Wise Energy Guide. The guide was

created to inform you of the best possible ways

to improve energy efficiency, use less energy and

still enjoy a warm, welcoming home.

The Wise Energy Guide can help you save on

energy bills, live comfortably and protect the

environment. Stewardship – caring about people

and the world we live in – is one of Union Gas’

business values. And the Wise Energy Guide is

a great place to start. It gives you the power to

take control and manage energy use in and

around your home.

In keeping with our goal of conservation, we

use recycled paper and environmentally-friendly

inks to produce this guide.

As you can see, together, we all make a difference.

Conservation

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Why it’s important to trim your energy use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Understanding energy and your home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

• Your home works as a system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

• Keeping your system balanced . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

• Reducing winter condensation problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Manage my bill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Getting started on an energy plan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

• Rebates and incentives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Equipment solutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

The product options . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

• Gas furnaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

• Space heaters and wall furnaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

• Combo hydronic baseboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

• Combo radiant floor heating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

• Combo fan coil and forced air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

• Fireplaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

• Water heaters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

• Other natural gas appliances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Efficient use of heating, cooling, ventilating equipment, appliances & lighting• Furnaces and air-conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

• Thermostats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

• Fireplaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

• Water heaters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

• Exhaust fans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

• Appliances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

• Lighting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Building envelope solutions and simple tips

• Air sealing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

• Insulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Looking for more information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

Home Energy Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . between 20-21

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uniongas.com/energyefficiency

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Wise Energy Guide

The following sections can help reduce

your energy use even further. They provide

valuable ideas on cutting heating costs,

air sealing, insulating, dealing with moisture

problems, and efficiency tips for operating

water heaters, appliances, air-conditioners

and lighting. Most of them don’t require any

technical skills – and you can usually find

the required tools and some of the materials

required around your home.

This guide is only a starting point for

many projects - you may require further

information to complete a job. Check

out chapter seven for a listing of other

free publications on conserving energy

in your home.

To help you plan your energy projects,

we’ve created a Home Energy Checklist

insert. Work your way through your home

with the checklist, then make a list

of the projects you want to tackle first.

If your project requires the expertise of

a professional contractor, make sure you

obtain competitive price quotes to help

you make your decision. Then go to it!

We hope you find this guide

useful. If you’re looking for

additional information or

know of anyone who would

like to order or download

the guide, visit

uniongas.com/wiseenergy

These days, more Canadians are

becoming concerned about energy

efficiency. And for good reasons, too!

First of all, when you save energy,

you save money on your energy bills.

The less energy you use, the more

money you save. It’s simple! Second,

when your home is more energy

efficient, it’s more comfortable.

No more drafts…cold floors…leaky

windows. It makes a difference in

the winter and in the summer!

That’s why Union Gas has put together

this guide for you. You’ll find it contains

a wealth of valuable information to help

you improve the energy efficiency of

your home!

We’ve organized it so it’s easy to read

and understand. Included in this guide

are many simple and inexpensive

energy-saving tips that can help you

save money and become more

energy efficient.

Changing your habits and attitudes

toward how you use energy can result

in energy savings.

If you are a current natural gas user

you’re already reducing your impact

on the environment by using natural

gas energy. However, you must still be

careful to use all types of energy wisely.

Why it’s important to trim energy use

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twoUnderstanding energy and your home

the fan removes the moisture-laden air and

replaces it with cool, dry, outdoor air, which

is drawn in through the home’s cracks and

leaks. In this case, the moisture, heat, and air

flows are being adjusted in your home.

So, as you can see, your home is in a

constant balancing act. And this balancing

act can have a significant impact on the

energy efficiency of your home, and

therefore on your home comfort and the

amount you spend on your energy bills!

Here’s how it works. With the first sign

of cold weather, your home starts to

cool down and someone in your home

will likely turn on the furnace. As you

and your home adjust to the temperature

changes outside, you will adjust the

thermostat accordingly – either by

turning it up to make your home

warmer, or turning it down to make

it cooler. Adjusting the temperature

is an action that balances the heat flows

in your home.

As the weather warms up and spring

arrives, you’ll notice that you and your

neighbours begin to open the windows

in your homes. Everyone wants to enjoy

the fresh, fragrant spring air! By opening

the windows, you move the air around

in your home – sending the stuffy air out

and bringing the fresh spring air inside.

By doing this, you are adjusting the air

flows in your home.

Then in the summertime, when the

humidity levels are high, you may either

turn on the air-conditioner (if you have

one) or a dehumidifier. By doing this,

you’re controlling the moisture flows

in your home.

Sometimes these flows work together.

For example, in the winter when you

take a shower, you may turn the exhaust

fan on. When the exhaust fan is running,


and

your

Understanding energy and your home

4

It is important to understand how your house functions when

planning major retrofit work. This will ensure the retrofit will

meet your expectations and won’t cause new problems while

solving the old. Though this may sound complicated, it’s a

simple question of balance. To be comfortable, energy efficient,

and safe – the air, moisture, and heat flows of your house must

operate as a balanced system.

So before undertaking any major renovations, homeowners

and contractors must ask- “What are the potential reactions to

the work I am about to do?” “How can I avoid those problems

from occurring in the first place?”

As you already know, no two homes are the same. However,

whether your home is new or old, a bungalow or two storey,

all homes have four common elements that include:

1 Building Envelope

2 Outside Environment

3 Mechanical Systems

4 Occupants

The first step when looking at your house as a system is

understanding how the potential interaction of these four elements

can affect your home’s air, heat and moisture flows. Understanding

these relationships is the secret to avoiding problems!

1 Building Envelope

The first element of your home’s system is the building envelope.

This is what separates the indoor living space from the outdoor

environment. It is made up of all the materials and exterior

surfaces in the building “shell” – the walls, ceiling, windows,

doors, and floors.

The amount of insulation and air leakage

in the building envelope will determine

its relative resistance to air, heat and

moisture flows. For example, in the

winter, if there is too much air flow

through the building envelope via air

leaks, the warm, moist indoor air will

be forced out – drawing in the cold,

dry outdoor air. This creates a very dry,

drafty, uncomfortable home that can be

very expensive to heat.

Furthermore, as the warm, moist air

exits, it can cause structural damage if

it becomes trapped and condenses in the

walls and the attic. Moisture must exit

through controlled openings such

as open windows and exhaust fans to

avoid damage to building materials.

Likewise, if the building envelope

in your home has little air leakage,

and there is no provision for ventilation

and combustion air to be introduced

to the home through controlled means,

you may have a problem with your fuel

burning appliances venting properly.

This situation could be hazardous to

your health. In addition, without proper

ventilation, moisture levels could rise

encouraging the growth of mold.

YOUR hOmE WORKS AS A SYSTEm

1 2 3 4

By air sealing and insulating your home’s building envelope, you

reduce the amount of outside air entering your home through the

cracks and leaks. This is a balancing act. You must still provide

enough dry outside air to enter the home for the combustion

appliances, its occupants, and to reduce moisture levels in the home

– but yet reduce the amount of air flow into the home to provide a

comfortable, cost effective home. You must find the “right” balance

for you and your home.

2 Outside Environment

The second element in understanding how your home works as a

system – is the outdoors! Although you expect your home to shelter

and protect you from external environmental conditions such as

precipitation, wind, sun, heat and cold, it sometimes fails to do so

because of the intensity of the environmental conditions and/or the

condition of the building envelope.

For example, prevailing winds can whistle right through your home,

bringing in cold air and robbing your home of its heat and moisture.

Climate conditions will affect the level of moisture present in the

outside air as well as the level of ground water and ground frost.

A high water table around your home’s foundation walls may

increase the amount of moisture seeping into the basement through

the concrete walls. The effect of the sun providing free heat in the

winter and overheating in the summer depends on the orientation of

your home, as well as the amount of window glazing and shading.

Many aspects of your home’s external environment cannot be

changed, but other elements of the house can be improved to

minimize the impact. For example, air sealing will reduce the wind’s

effect; adding insulation will reduce heat flows through the walls

and attic; opening and closing blinds and drapes at appropriate times

will capture/reduce the sun’s heat; and landscaping will improve

drainage and provide wind and sun protection.

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3 Mechanical Systems

The third element to consider when

looking at your house as a system

is your home’s mechanical systems.

This includes all equipment and

appliances used for space heating

(including fireplaces) and cooling; indoor

humidification and de-humidification;

air exhaust and supply; water heating;

lighting; and laundry. These systems

add or remove heat, moisture and air

from your home’s indoor space.

Understanding how these mechanical

systems operate is very important

since they depend on the air, heat, and

moisture flows of your home to operate

safely and efficiently.

For example, the mechanical systems

which require combustion air can be

affected if the building envelope is

tightened by an extensive reduction

of air flow through comprehensive air

sealing, the installation of new windows,

increased insulation levels, etc. A lack

of combustion air creates the potential

for poor venting of combustion

by-products. This is a potential health

hazard and one of the key reasons

that you should understand how your

home can work as a system, prior to

undertaking any major retrofit work.


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Your home may require direct combustion air. A knowledgeable

mechanical contractor can assist with testing and providing

combustion air needs.

Operation and maintenance of this equipment is also important

in creating a healthy balance in your home’s system. This

equipment impacts the air, heat and moisture flows of your

home. For example, venting an electric clothes dryer* into your

home may provide additional heat, but it will also introduce

moisture, odours and lint into your home. If your home can’t

handle the extra moisture, you may experience condensation

problems. In addition, the lint and odours can be sources of

health problems, and may actually aggravate asthma and

allergy problems.

4 Occupants

You may not realize it, but you and your loved ones have an

important effect on your home’s system! The number of people

and pets living in your home, as well as their lifestyles, is the

fourth element of your home’s system.

For example, the number of showers, the use or non-use of

exhaust fans, the amount of cooking, and the operation of

humidifiers can all have an effect on the amount of moisture

being produced in your home. There is an increased need for

ventilation when moisture levels rise too high. However, many

people hesitate to open windows because they are concerned

about losing heat and do not use exhaust fans because they are

too noisy or are perceived to expel too much heated air.

It is often said that heat, air and moisture flows in a house

depends on the number of children and pets, and how often they

go in and out of doors! There is some truth to this – for example,

in the winter, when the front door is opened, there is a rush of

cold air into the house. The cold air is able to rush in because the

air inside the home has a place to exit (i.e. into the attic, through

cracks around windows, etc.). The air exiting the house takes heat

and moisture with it and cool, dry outside air is drawn in thus

cooling the house and lowering its moisture levels.

Understanding the relationship

Now that the four elements of your

home’s system have been identified

– the building envelope, the outside

environment, the mechanical systems

and the occupants – it’s a little easier

to understand how they interact.

It’s also important to realize that

maintaining a healthy balance in your

home’s system can have a profound

effect on your home’s comfort and your

energy bills! In many cases, it’s up to

you to do a little homework to ensure

that the balance is kept. Here are a

couple of actual case studies that will

help give you a better idea of how your

home works as a system.

Case study: Installing new windows

In this first case study, you’ve decided

to replace your old windows with new

energy-efficient ones. Once installed,

you’re pleased with the way your new

windows look and operate, and are glad

that they’re so easy to clean! You look

forward to winter this year, knowing

your home will be more energy efficient

and comfortable.

But – as the cold weather sets in, you

find condensation dripping down

several windows. You thought you’d left

condensation problems behind with the

old leaky windows!


* Natural gas dryers, for safety reasons, should NEVER be vented indoors.

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You call the window contractor to complain that the windows are

defective. But instead of admitting fault, he says that in fact, the

windows have proven that they are airtight and properly installed.

He explains further that the old windows were very cold and leaky,

and easily allowed even the smallest amount of moisture in the

air to condense on them. However, much of the moisture passed

through to the outside. Since the moisture now has fewer exit

points through the building shell with your new windows, your

home’s humidity level has increased. When your home’s humidity

levels increase to this point, condensation can occur easily on any

surface that is slightly cooler than your home’s air – like the surface

of your new windows. So even though your new windows are more

energy efficient and warmer than your old ones, if the humidity levels

are higher, the window surface can still be cool enough to force

moisture to condense.

The reduction in air exchange in your home due to the tighter

windows is good, but now you have to take more control of your

home’s ventilation needs. Using your kitchen and bathroom

exhaust fans more often, or by opening a window once in a while

will help to eliminate odours and excess moisture; in turn, forcing

fresh outdoor air to enter your home. How much do you control

or reduce it? To the point that condensation no longer appears on

the window surface and/or the air smells fresh inside your home.

The goal of home renovations is to “build tight and ventilate right.”

The key is for you to be in control of the ventilation, not the wind

whistling through the cracks and leaks in your building envelope!

(for more information on controlling moisture refer to page nine

Reducing Winter Condensation Problems and check out the

government websites noted in the last chapter).

Was the contractor at fault? No. Were the windows faulty? No.

The mistake the contractor made was not warning you about

the potential for condensation. His explanation shows that he

understands how your home works as a system, but he failed to

share this with you before he installed your new windows. The

secret to avoiding problems is in understanding the relationship

between the elements of your home’s system and the air, heat and

moisture flows.

Case study: A woodburning

fireplace backdrafts!

The backdrafting of a woodburning

fireplace is often a sign that your home’s

system is out of balance.

What is backdrafting and how can it

be avoided? Combustion appliances,

that use a chimney for exhaust, like

woodburning fireplaces, natural gas

or oil furnaces and water heaters,

need a source of air to operate safely

and efficiently. Backdrafting occurs

when there is insufficient air for the

combustion process and the by-products

of combustion, such as carbon monoxide

(CO), are drawn back into the house

instead of venting safely up the chimney.

Carbon monoxide is an odourless,

colourless, tasteless gas that is harmful

even in low doses. Every house with a

combustion appliance should have a CO

detector installed in the sleeping area.

For additional resource information see

chapter seven.



Heat moves out of the house in all directions.

* Natural gas dryers, for safety reasons, should NEVER be vented indoors.

8

Can home renovations cause backdrafting? Yes. One or a

combination of the following renovations can reduce enough

of the natural air supply (leaking in through cracks around

windows, etc.) to your woodburning fireplace, that it could cause

combustion by-products to be drawn back down the chimney!

1 Adding rigid board insulation to the outside walls behind

new siding or brick.

2 Extensive air sealing.

3 New energy-efficient windows.

4 Increasing basement, wall and attic insulation.

How can you tell if your woodburning fireplace is backdrafting?

You’ll be able to smell the smoke if the combustion by-products

are entering the room instead of exiting up the chimney. You may

also notice that the smoke has stained the brickwork above the

fireplace, and/or it is difficult to light the fire.

In some homes, backdrafting is only experienced at certain times

and may not be linked to renovations. Check to see if an exhaust

fan or clothes dryer is operating while the woodburning fireplace

is in use. Exhaust fans and clothes dryers expel air from the house,

and may compete for air with your woodburning fireplace and

other combustion appliances. Outside air enters the home through

cracks to replace the air which has exited through the exhaust fans

or dryer, rebalancing the air pressure in your home. If the outside

air cannot be drawn in through baseboard, window and basement

wall cracks, it will pull from the next easiest source – the chimney,

causing backdrafting when the fireplace is operating.

Can you have an energy-efficient home and operate a woodburning

fireplace? Yes, but you must consider your home’s system when

planning your renovations. If you are planning extensive energy

management projects, you may have to provide a direct supply of

fresh air to your woodburning fireplace.

Other options include avoiding the use of exhaust appliances

(i.e. dryer) when your woodburning fireplace is in operation, and

consider not using the woodburning fireplace at all. Standard

woodburning fireplaces are not energy efficient, and actually

remove more heated air up the chimney than they provide to you.

If you want to have a fireplace, consider installing an alternative

such as a direct vent natural gas fireplace.


Some of the precautions you can take

to prevent backdrafting include:

• Never tamper with fuel burning

equipment, vents, or flues

• Never insulate or try to seal up a

draft hood, wind cap, or exhaust vent

on any natural gas appliance

• It is absolutely essential, for your

safety, that panels and grills on the

furnace are kept in place and that

the fan compartment door is closed

when the furnace is operating

• If you have a natural gas water

heater, make sure that combustion

air openings at the bottom of the

tank and the opening below the draft

diverter (on top of the tank at the flue

duct) remain unblocked

• Do not store anything on top of your

natural gas water heater

• For all fuel-burning equipment, make

sure that vent hoods and pipes are

securely in place

TIPTm

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Your home is an investment that should last a lifetime. To make

your home last longer, to take pride not only in its appearance but

also in its structural integrity, you need to get to know how your

home’s system works and how to maintain a good balancing act

between the air, heat and moisture flows. Careful planning in the

early stages of renovation work will prevent unpleasant surprises

and ensure that the completed work meets your expectations.

Remember “Build Tight - Ventilate Right!”

You’ll see the results with a more comfortable home, greater energy

efficiency, and savings on your monthly energy bills. And that’s

well worth the investment.

Heat recovery ventilator

If using exhaust fans and opening windows does not resolve your

indoor air quality problems, you may require a ventilation control

system such as a Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) to bring the airflow

of your home in balance. This system acts like the lungs of your

home, automatically moving air in and out of the house. As its name

suggests, the unit recovers about 70 percent of the heat and preheats

the fresh air before distributing it through the home’s duct system.

HRVs are presently being installed in many new and existing homes.

HRVs only provide fresh air for your home’s occupants. According

to code, provision must be made for venting combustion air from

your appliances such as fireplaces, furnaces and water heaters.

An HRAI (Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Institute

of Canada) trained heating/ventilation specialist will be able to

help you determine whether an HRV and/or combustion air is

required for your house. Check the HRAI website (hrai.ca), toll

free 877 467-4724 or check your Yellow Pages under ‘Heating

Contractors’ to find a qualified HRAI contractor.

Does condensation appear on your windows during cold weather,

or perhaps while you are cooking or showering? Is there mold

in an upper corner of a bedroom wall, in a closet, or on the

bathroom ceiling? Perhaps it only occurs in the basement during

the summer. These are all indications of moisture problems and

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28–35

Household Moisture Activity (for a family of four) Average litres per week* per occupant

Building Related Average litres per week*

Cooking (three meals daily)

Dishwashing (three times daily)

Bathing

Clothes washing

Clothes drying indoors, or using an unvented dryer

Floor mopping per 9.3 m2

Normal respiration and skin evaporation from occupants

Seasonal building storage (i.e., framing, drywall, concrete)

Exposed, uncovered earth crawlspace

Drying and burning firewood (approx.)

New construction – drying, framing and concrete (over 18 months)

*Averaged over one yearSource: Natural Resources Canada


REdUCING WINTER CONdENSATION PRObLEmS

KEEPING YOUR SYSTEm bALANCEd

no matter where and when it occurs,

moisture can be damaging once it

condenses.

If you can warm up surfaces (i.e. window

glass), reduce moisture production, and/

or directly vent moisture outside, most

condensation problems can be resolved.

Often, achieving a comfortable level of

humidity in your home during the winter

can become a frustrating juggling act.

Sometimes the house air feels too humid;

at other times scratchy and dry. It is

generally easy to produce more moisture

if needed (i.e. turning on a humidifier),

so this section will deal with reducing

moisture levels in your home.


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Drying up moisture problems

Step 1: Identify the source(s) of the moisture

Make a list of how your home and family produce moisture,

noting the largest sources, such as a dirt floor in the basement

or crawlspace (common in older homes), portable and furnace

humidifiers, showers, cooking, laundry, wood stored indoors,

etc. Excess moisture may also be entering the basement due to

disconnected downspouts and lack of grading around the outside.

Step 2: Reduce the amount of moisture being produced

You can eliminate or reduce many sources of moisture with

simple measures. For example, you can cover dirt floors with

heavy plastic (overlapping and then sealing the edges of the

plastic with acoustical caulking), turn humidifiers down or off,

use bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans more often, vent dryers

outside, avoid hanging clothes to dry inside, store wood outside,

reconnect downspouts, and grade the landscaping to encourage

water drainage away from the walls. For more information on how

to choose an efficient and quiet exhaust fan see page 28 and refer

to government websites noted on page 39.

Step 3: Warm up cold surfaces

Moisture is generally only a problem if it condenses on a surface.

If surfaces are kept warm, condensation is less likely to occur.

For example, you can keep windows warmer by ensuring that

heat from baseboards, floor registers, or radiators isn’t blocked

by furniture or drapes. Another way you can warm the window

surface is to add an extra window glazing, either inside or out,

made of plastic sheeting, acrylic or glass.

Another example is condensation that occurs in particular

spots on walls or ceilings. This indicates a lack of sufficient

insulation. If possible, you need to add more insulation to

that location and/or reduce the amount of moisture being

produced in your home (see Step 2).

Inside storm windows must be air-tight,

and outside storm windows must have

breathing holes to allow moisture to

drain and escape.

Step 4: Whole-house ventilation

Installing a Heat Recovery Ventilator

(HRV), as discussed earlier in this

section, is appropriate if you intend

to retrofit your home to be energy

efficient, comfortable and free of

moisture problems. You may need to

plan ahead to install an HRV

(i.e. install some new duct work),

so discuss your retrofit ideas with a

heating/ventilation specialist before

you begin renovating.

For additional resource information

on HRVs and controlling moisture

problems see chapter seven.


TIPTm

man

age m

y bi

ll In most areas, a Union Gas meter reader

will go from customer to customer to read

the natural gas meter. This meter read is

recorded as your “usage” on your monthly

bill. Four winter months of usage account

for more than half of your annual natural gas

costs. Union Gas offers different features for

managing your bill; Equal Billing Plan (EBP),

Automatic Payment Plan (APP), MyAccount,

and Paperless Billing.

The EBP distributes your annual cost evenly

throughout the year, reducing the impact

of high winter heating bills. Automatic

Payment Plan is pre-authorized electronic

payment from your financial institution each

month on the due date of your Union Gas

bill. Combining EBP and APP gives you the

convenience of having a more predictable

bill and the control of knowing your bill is

paid on time with no late fees. MyAccount is

an online account management tool that lets

you view 24 months of bill history, register

for EBP, APP, compare and download usage.

Paperless Billing gives you the freedom from

managing paper and the convenience and

control of MyAccount. When you register for

Paperless Billing, an email notification will

be sent to you when your bill is ready for

viewing on MyAccount. Providing you with

the notice you need to view, link and pay

your bills online. EBP, APP, MyAccount and

Paperless Billing are all free. Register today

at uniongas.com/myaccount.

Understanding your natural gas usage

is an important step in managing your

energy costs and your bills. This section

will give you an overview of your

Union Gas bill, how we bill and your

billing options.

Your Union Gas Bill is determined

by four important factors;

• Use - The amount of natural gas

consumed and measured in cubic metres

• Days of Service - The number of

days that your bill covers

• Rates - Union Gas rates change quarterly.

Some customers may choose to sign

up for a fixed rate through an energy

broker. Your broker name and rate is

listed on your Union Gas bill. Broker

rates and fixed/contract timelines

will vary depending on your broker.

Please contact your broker for more

information

• Degree Days/Average Daily

Temperature - Details on temperature,

more specifically cold temperatures and

how it affects your natural gas usage -

the colder it is the more natural gas you

use to heat your home

11

threemanage my bill

Wise Energy Guide

uniongas.com/energyefficiency MyAccount

- account summary page

12

1 Understanding my bill, my natural gas usage:

See information on page 11.

2 Billing and payment options: Sometimes it seems like there are

so many options out there when buying your natural gas. Here’s

a quick summary of what’s available to you.

If you find that your gas bills are higher in the winter months,

our Equal Billing Plan (EBP) is a great way to spread out the

cost of your natural gas over the whole year. It will take the

guess work out of your monthly gas bill, and helps you better

predict your bill over those cold winter months.

If it’s hard to find time to pay your monthly bills, why not sign

up for our Automatic Payment Plan (APP)? Automating your

payments with Union Gas is a great way to always pay your

bills on time, without having to worry about late charges.

Simply provide us with your financial institution account

information, and we’ll take care of the rest!

For more information or to register for EBP, APP or Paperless

Billing visit uniongas.com/myaccount

3 Complete a home energy audit: An energy audit will evaluate

the energy efficiency of your home and outline improvements

to the heating, cooling, hot water heating and other uses of

energy in the house that could result in energy savings.

A do-it-yourself energy audit checklist has been included

in this guide between pages 20 and 21.

4 Install a programmable thermostat: By installing and properly

programming your programmable thermostat you can save up to

$100 a year in energy costs. For more information including tips

and techniques see chapter five.

5 Air sealing: Is your house leaking money? If your home is like

most, the greatest amount of heat loss is from air leakage; heated

air escaping to the colder outdoors through hundreds of tiny

holes and cracks around your home. For more information

including tips and techniques see chapter six.

6 Purchase ENERGY STAR® appliances:

ENERGY STAR is the gold star of

energy efficiency. You’ll find it only

on appliances and products that have

made top grades in rigorous energy

efficiency tests. ENERGY STAR is a

symbol you’ll see on products around

the world and here in Canada. It’s a

symbol worth looking for and buying.

For more information see chapter five.

7 Reduce water heating demand:

After space heating, your water heater

is the second largest user of energy in

your home. It pays to use hot water

wisely! For more information including

tips and techniques see chapter five.

8 Install energy-efficient lighting: Today’s

market offers you a bewildering array

of light fixtures and bulbs! If you

purchase and use energy-efficient

light bulbs, over the course of a year

your savings will certainly add up –

even though lighting constitutes only

six percent of your total monthly energy

costs. But remember, the best energy-

saving device for lighting is the switch!

Turn lights off when not in use. For

more information see chapter five.

12 STEPS TO REdUCE YOUR ENERGY CONSUmPTION ANd SAvE mONEY ON YOUR UTILITY bILL!

manage my bill

uniongas.com/managemybill

13

9 Insulate your home: From the very moment heat is

generated inside your home, it tries to escape to the colder

outdoors. Over and above air leakage, heat is also lost through

the ceiling, basement, windows and doors, and walls by

conduction, convection, and radiation. The rate of heat

loss depends on the difference between inside and outside

temperatures and the insulation resistance met by escaping

heat. Increasing the insulation in these areas reduces the

heat loss. For tips and techniques see chapter six.

10 Use a clothesline: Did you know that an electric dryer can

cost a homeowner up to $100 a year in energy costs? Consider

using a clothesline. Not only will you save on your bill, but

you can also save on laundry products. The sun is a natural

whitener, so no need to buy any bleach. Static cling is created

by clothing rubbing together, but if your clothing is hung out

to dry it is not necessary to buy any dryer sheets.

11 Regular furnace maintenance: If your furnace is operating

at peak efficiency, it will use less energy and cost less to

operate. You should have a heating contractor perform a

yearly maintenance check on your furnace, venting, and

cooling systems to ensure they are operating at peak

efficiency. For more information including tips and

techniques see chapter five.

12 Enrol in MyAccount: Manage your Union Gas bill with

MyAccount. MyAccount gives you the convenience of

online access 24/7 and the control to update contact

information, choose billing and payment preferences,

move, compare, graph, download and print 24 months

of usage history. MyAccount is free and easy to use.

Register today at uniongas.com/myaccount

On the web:

uniongas.com/contactus

On the phone:

• Natural gas emergencies:

1 877 969-0999

• Call Before You Dig – Ontario One Call:

1 800 400-2255

• Account and Billing Inquiries:

1 888 774-3111

Our customer contact representatives

are available Monday to Friday from

8a.m. to 6p.m. (excluding major

holidays). Calls may be recorded for

quality and safety purposes.

By mail:

Union Gas Limited, P.O. Box 2001

Chatham, ON, Canada N7M 5M1

Bill Payment, P.O. Box 2025

Chatham, Ontario N7M 6C7

manage my bill


CONTACT US

Thinking about energy renovations but not sure where to start or

invest your dollar for the most return on your energy bills? Now that

you have read chapter two and have a better understanding of energy,

your home, and heat loss you probably have a pretty good idea on

where you think your renovation dollars should be spent. But have

you completed an assessment of your home from top to bottom?

By completing an assessment you can take a quick inventory or

status of your home for identification of energy-saving solutions.

A home energy assessment/audit will evaluate the energy efficiency

of your home and outline improvements to the heating, cooling, hot

water heating and other uses of energy in the house that could result

in energy savings. To help you get started a do-it-yourself energy

audit checklist has been included in this guide between pages 20 and 21.

If you are not comfortable taking on an assessment you may want to

bring in the professionals.

ener

gy p

lan

14

dO IT YOURSELF ASSESSmENT

Wise Energy Guide four

Getting started on an energy plan

15

Getting started on an energy plan

Residential property owners can qualify for Ontario provincial

grants by improving the energy efficiency of their home and

reducing their home’s impact on the environment. The program

requires energy efficiency evaluations through licensed service

organizations. Energy advisors must be certified and conduct

a detailed, on-site evaluation of your home’s energy use from

the attic down to the foundation. They will then provide a

personalized report, including a checklist of recommended

retrofits to improve the energy efficiency of your home.

The report will also show the grant amounts for each

eligible upgrade that you can receive by carrying out these

energy-saving improvements. The maximum grant you can

receive for a home is $5,000 from the provincial government.

The grant is calculated and based on the grant amounts and

eligibility requirements that are in effect at the time of the

post-retrofit evaluation. You must complete your retrofits

and receive your post-retrofit evaluation within 18 months

from the date of your pre-retrofit evaluation report,

whichever comes first, is subject to available funding, and

may be withdrawn at any time.

For more information on this program, including a list

of certified energy advisors visit Ontario Home Energy

Savings Program at

mei.gov.on.ca/en/energy/conservation/ohesp

When you’re planning your energy

renovation be sure to investigate all

opportunities for rebates and incentives.

Some upgrades will qualify for multiple

incentives so do your homework first.

The links below will help you get started

and find more information on how you

can save energy and cash on your

energy renovations.

Union Gas


• Energy Conservation tips, techniques,

current rebates and incentives

• Fuel Cost Comparisons for natural

gas products

• Where to buy or rent

• Manufacturer links

Ontario Home Energy Savings Program

mei.gov.on.ca/en/energy/conservation/ohesp

• This program requires an energy

audit by a certified energy advisor/auditor

before and after renovations

Ontario Power Authority

everykilowattcounts.ca/residential/

coolsavings/index.php

• Cool Savings Program – rebates

for reducing your heating and

cooling electrical load

bRING IN ThE PROFESSIONALS

REbATES ANd INCENTIvES


equi

pmen

t

16

fiveEquipment solutions

Wise Energy Guide

Whether you’re currently using natural gas

energy, or are thinking about converting to

it, you can rest assured that natural gas is the

best environmental choice for home heating,

water heating, and appliances – particularly

when compared to other fossil fuels.

Natural gas energy offers a wide choice

of options to fit your budget, heating, and

appliance requirements. You’ll find that

the manufacturers of natural gas furnaces

and appliances have made many technical

advances to improve their efficiency. For

example, some continuous burning pilot

lights have been replaced with an energy-

saving electronic ignition. There is also

the option of venting a natural gas furnace,

water heater and natural gas fireplace

directly through the wall of the basement,

which reduces the heat loss that used to

escape up the chimney!

• Furnaces

• Space heaters and wall furnaces

• Combo hydronic baseboard

• Combo radiant floor heating

• Combo fan coil and forced air

• Fireplaces

• Water heaters

• Other natural gas appliances

• Heating and air-conditioning

• Thermostats

• Fireplaces

• Water heating

• Exhaust fans

• Appliances

• Lighting

ThE PROdUCT OPTIONS

EFFICIENT USE OF hEATING, COOLING, vENTILATING EqUIPmENT, APPLIANCES

ANd LIGhTING

EnerGuide allows you to compare the energy efficiency of the many different models of

household appliances or heating and cooling products sold in Canada. For some of these

products, ENErGy STar goes one step further and identifies specific models that meet

or exceed premium levels of energy efficiency. The ENErGy STar symbol may even

appear on an EnerGuide label. When you see ENErGy STar

on an EnerGuide label, you can be sure that the product is

among the most energy efficient available.

EnerGuide and ENErGy STar® products for home heating

Printed on the back page of furnace manufacturers’ literature. aFUE* rating of 90% to 98%. an asterisk (*) on the model/aFUE rating indicates a high-efficiency motor.

No EnerGuide label

No EnerGuide label

Fireplaces range in efficiency from about 30% to 70%. The higher the percentage the more efficient the model. Printed in manufacturer’s literature or on websites.

Natural gas furnaces that have an aFUE rating of 90% or higher

ENErGy STar qualified at an aFUE rating of 85% or higher

The ENErGy STar program does not include natural gas-fired boiler at this time

The ENErGy STar program does not include natural gas fireplaces at this time

Product EnerGuide EnERGy StAR

High-efficiency natural gas furnace

Natural gas-fired boiler

Condensing natural gas-fired boiler

Natural gas fireplace

17

High-efficiency natural gas furnaces

The high-tech design of a high-efficiency natural gas furnace offers you significant energy savings and squeezes

the most heat out of every heating dollar. Another advantage of a high-efficiency natural gas furnace is that its

combustion gases are exhausted directly through a side wall to the outdoors, which eliminates the need for

a chimney, and the danger of backdrafting. Most units also have a direct source of combustion air from the

outdoors. (Note: As of Dec. 31, 2009 the new national standard for gas furnaces will require a minimum fuel

efficiency level of 90 percent).

If you run your furnace motor continuously for improved air circulation in your home consider purchasing a

high-efficiency brushless direct current (DC) motor with your new furnace. Government studies have shown

significant motor electrical consumption reductions of more than 50 percent in both winter and summer

operation. You can’t add this feature to an existing system, so be sure to ask your heating contractor about

the option when buying a new furnace.

ThE PROdUCT OPTIONS


*annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (aFUE) aFUE measures the amount of heat actually delivered to your house compared to the amount of fuel that you must supply to the furnace. Thus, a furnace that has an 90% aFUE rating converts 90% of the fuel that you supply to heat -- the other 10% is lost out of the chimney.

Equipment solutions

TIPTm

TIPTm

a combo system requires professional

design for proper sizing. The Heating,

refrigeration, and air Conditioning

Institute of Canada (HraI) provides

this training to the industry based on the

Unified Canadian Guideline for Integrated

(Combo) Heating Systems. Ensure that

your contractor (designer) has been

trained by HraI. To search for a

qualified designer or contractor call

1 877 467-4724 or visit hrai.ca

18

Want to upgrade your electric baseboards to natural gas?

Natural gas space heaters and wall furnaces are good

options to consider.

Natural gas space heaters and wall furnaces

What about those hard-to-heat areas of your home like

closed-in porches, add-on rooms, garages, or the basement?

A natural gas-fired convection space heater may be just the

right system to complement your existing heating system.

These compact, energy-efficient units are directly vented

outside, mounted on a wall, and can be sized to heat just

one room or several. Some units have built in humidifiers,

circulating fans and electronic ignitions. They are also

approved for mobile and manufactured homes.

If you have electric baseboard heating in your home, consider

installing a natural gas space heater, wall furnace, or a

natural gas fireplace and/or a natural gas water heater.

Any one of these options will allow you to enjoy the benefits

of natural gas energy without the bother and expense of

installing duct work.

Combination natural gas heating and water heating units

Combo systems are an innovative design that use a natural gas

water heater to provide heat and domestic hot water to your

home. While some combo systems have used conventional gas

storage tanks as the heat source, high-efficiency combo systems

usually include either a condensing storage tank water heater

or a high-efficiency tankless water heater.

There are combo systems now available that also integrate

heat recovery ventilation with the space and water heating.

It is important to consider the efficiency of such an integrated

system, especially for heating your home. A combo or

integrated system should have a space heating efficiency

of at least 78 percent although some systems are capable of

space heating efficiencies of as high as 90 percent.

Equipment solutions

19

Equipment solutions


There are three types of natural gas space heating systems, which

can be connected to the natural gas water heater: hydronic

baseboard, radiant floor heating, and fan coil and forced air.

1 Combo hydronic baseboard

Natural gas hydronic baseboards are a direct replacement for

electric baseboards. Hot water from the natural gas hot water

tank is piped directly to each baseboard, providing comfortable,

gentle, and even heat.

2 Combo radiant floor heating

Radiant floor heating warms from the floor up, utilizing hot

water circulating through a network of plastic tubing embedded

in concrete floors. As a result, radiant floor heating warms

everything in its path for a more comfortable and efficient

distribution of heat. Because radiant floor heating systems warm

from the floor up, radiating heat directly to you, you can feel

more comfortable, even with your thermostat set lower.

3 Combo fan coil and forced air

The combo fan coil and forced air system uses existing duct

work to distribute the heat recovered from the hot water tank.

Unlike hydronic baseboards and radiant floor heating, electronic

air cleaners, humidifiers, and air-conditioners can be used with

this system.

Whether you’re currently using natural gas energy, or are

thinking about converting to it, you can rest assured that natural

gas is the best environmental choice for home heating, water

heating, and appliances – particularly when compared to other

fossil fuels.

Natural gas energy offers a wide choice of options to fit your

budget, heating, and appliance requirements. You’ll find that

the manufacturers of natural gas furnaces and appliances have

made many technical advances to improve their efficiency.

For example, some continuous burning pilot lights have been

replaced with an energy-saving electronic ignition. There is also

the option of venting a natural gas furnace, water heater and

natural gas fireplace directly through the wall of the basement,

which reduces the heat loss that used to escape up the chimney.

20

Natural gas fireplaces

Natural gas fireplaces offer a beautiful, convenient, and

economical alternative to wood-burning fireplaces. Plus,

natural gas fireplaces are better for the environment, since

they eliminate the smoke, ashes, lingering embers and air

pollutants associated with wood-burning fireplaces.

When shopping for a natural gas fireplace, it is important

to know a few facts. Natural gas fireplaces are rated for

efficiency using the CAN/CSA - P.4 - 02 performance-testing

standard. This rating system helps to narrow your choices

when purchasing a natural gas fireplace.

A good energy-efficient model should have an efficiency

rating of between 50 to 70 percent or even higher.

You will find the EnerGuide rating for gas fireplaces

in the manufacturer’s literature or on their website.

Energy-efficient fireplaces have many of the

following features:

1 An EnerGuide Fireplace Efficiency (FE) rating over 50 percent.

2 Direct-vent design.

3 Either an intermittent electronic ignition system, a means

of turning off and relighting the pilot light, or a two-stage pilot

that runs with a very low flame when the fireplace is off.

4 Radiation-transparent ceramic glass front.

5 A quiet squirrel-cage type circulating fan to help transfer

convective heat to the room.

6 Secondary heat exchanger.

7 Insulated outer casing to prevent heat loss through

the walls to the outside if located on an exterior wall.

8 Good turndown control or other means such as ducting

to prevent localized overheating.

Equipment solutions

Natural gas water heaters

Did you know natural gas is the

preferred choice of fuel for heating

water? Natural gas heats water twice

as fast as electric water heaters and

at a lower cost. However, when

comparing electric water heating to

natural gas water heating actual cost

comparisons may vary depending on

location and usage. Some natural gas

water heaters can exhaust directly

through a wall instead of up a

chimney. This allows the water heater

to be installed closer to the point of

use, or in a more convenient location;

and it also reduces excess heat loss

that can escape up the chimney.

An ENERGY STAR® tankless water

heater heats water on demand. This

system can be sized to heat water for

all uses in your home or for just one

shower or sink.

21

Equipment solutions

You can also choose to use the sun to heat up to 50 percent of your

hot water with a solar collector system. Since energy from the sun is

free, solar water heaters can significantly reduce a household’s water

heating costs – savings that in turn can offset the higher purchase

and installation costs of a solar system.

Whichever way you choose to heat your water you can substantially

reduce your hot water heating costs with the installation of a

Drain Water Heat Recovery system. This system recovers the heat

remaining in your shower water and pre-heats the incoming water

hat feeds your water heater system. Up to 60 percent of the heat

from drain water is recovered and used to pre-heat cold water

going to the water heater from about 8°C to about 23°C. That saves

energy and saves homeowners up to 30 percent* of their water

heating costs.

Top 10 Reasons to install a Drain Water Heat Recovery System:

• Simple technology reuses heat energy to reduce energy consumption

• Lower water heating costs by up to 30 percent

• After space heating, water heating is your largest energy expense

• Reduces greenhouse gas emissions

• Easy to retrofit into existing homes

• Maintenance free with no moving parts

• Recognized by ENERGY STAR® for New Homes

• Increases water heating capacity

• Purchase and rental options available

For more information visit uniongas.com/dwhr

Natural resources Canada (NrCan) maintains the EnerGuide appliance Directory,

which lists the energy consumption ratings of all new major electrical household

appliances sold in Canada. The directory also indicates the models that are

ENErGy STar® qualified.

For a printed copy, call 1 800 387-2000 or visit oee.nrcan.gc.ca

Other natural gas appliances

You can also purchase natural gas

ranges, cooktops, clothes dryers,

barbecues, and pool heaters. These

natural gas appliances are energy

efficient and cost effective when

compared to the same electric

appliances.

Visit uniongas.com for a listing

of natural gas products. Including

information on installation, cost

comparisons, manufacturers, and

where to buy or rent.


* Savings may vary due to individual hot water use, fluctuating energy costs and installation variables.

Drain Water Heat Recovery Unit

TIPTm

22

Equipment solutions

Furnace and air-conditioning maintenance

If your furnace and air-conditioner are operating at peak

efficiency, they will use less energy and cost less to operate.

You should have a heating contractor perform a yearly

maintenance check on your furnace, venting, and cooling

systems to ensure they are operating at peak efficiency.

In between those visits, there are some simple do-it-yourself

tasks to help keep your systems working efficiently:

• Change or clean your filter frequently (i.e. every one to two

months) during the heating and air-conditioning seasons.

A dirty air filter reduces the airflow to the operating

equipment and forces it to run longer to heat and cool the

house. Using a furnace filter alarm can let you know when

the filter needs to be changed. Electronic air cleaner filters

also need to be cleaned regularly (every one to two months)

• Keep return air grills, hot air registers, radiators, and space

heaters/baseboards clear of furniture, rugs, and drapes to

allow free movement of air

• You can ensure more heated or cooled air reaches its

destination by sealing the seams of accessible furnace

ducting with aluminum foil tape. TIP: Aluminum foil

tape out-performs duct tape for this job, as duct tape

has a tendency to dry out

• Insulate all ducts in unheated or cooler spaces with

commercial duct insulation – or make your own! Simply

wrap the ducts with glass fibre batts, secure lightly with

string, cover insulation with plastic, and tape all edges

You’ll be glad to know that making your home more energy

efficient doesn’t have to cost a lot of money. There are many

easy ways to keep your heating and cooling costs down.

Have a Heating, Ventilation and

Air Conditioning contractor (HVAC)

check and inspect your heating

system components including:

• Heat exchanger

• Air blower fan and motor

• Flame pattern

• Test for carbon monoxide

• Burner, pilot

• Furnace controls

• Bearings, belts, pumps

• Venting

• Chimney

• Pilot safety system

• Power exhaust

• Air filter

• Visible gas piping for leaks

• Electronic ignition system

• Electronic air cleaner

Your HVAC contractor will clean

the furnace components as necessary

for proper operation and can inspect

your air-conditioning system.

EFFICIENT USE OF hEATING, COOLING, vENTILATING EqUIPmENT ANd APPLIANCES ANd LIGhTING

Equipment solutions

Making the most of air-conditioning

To provide comfortable conditions during hot, humid weather

you must not only cool your home, but also reduce the

humidity levels.

If you operate them properly, central air-conditioning systems

will cool and dehumidify the whole house, and room air-

conditioners will cool and dehumidify individual rooms.

Central air-conditioners

Use the EnerGuide rating found on the back page of

manufacturers’ brochures to identify the efficiency level

of a central air-conditioner. Like all EnerGuide labels and

ratings the scale shows you at a glance whether the

air-conditioner is a good or an average energy performer

in comparison to other similar models. (Note: EnerGuide

ratings for air-conditioners and furnaces work in the reverse

to EnerGuide labels for household appliances. Look for a

larger number on the scale when buying heating and cooling

equipment to ensure the highest efficiency).

To choose the most energy-efficient model available, you

can also look for the ENERGY STAR® logo alongside the

EnerGuide rating. The ENERGY STAR logo means that

the product has exceeded the minimum SEER * (Seasonal

Energy Efficiency Ratio) level and meets the highest energy

efficiency levels. To qualify for Ontario Home Energy

Savings Program, central air-conditioners must meet or

exceed a SEER level of 14.5.

Room air-conditioners

Refer to these tips when you’re

shopping for and operating room

air-conditioners:

• Before you buy, you’ll need the

following information: exact room

dimensions and room details

(i.e. is the room closed off or are

there open passages to other rooms);

size and type of windows; and

room location. Does it get morning

or afternoon sun? Is there outside

shading? What power supply is

available in the room?

• Room air-conditioners are also

rated for their efficiency. Look for

the Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER)

printed on an EnerGuide label,

attached to the unit. The unit’s EER

is also normally stamped

on the nameplate affixed to the

outer casing of the unit

*SEER is the measure of equipment energy efficiency over one cooling season.

23uniongas.com/energyefficiency

Wind or sun breaks

Plant evergreen trees or a dense hedge as a wind break between the prevailing

wind and your home; usually the north-west side.

Deciduous trees planted on the east and west side of your property near the

house will help block the summer sun, and allow the winter sun to

warm your home once the leaves have fallen. research indicates that a

mature shade tree cools a home similar to an air-conditioner, with

no operating cost!

The higher the EER, the less electricity the unit uses to do the

same job. Although there may be a higher price tag for a more

efficient unit, the energy savings over the life of the unit should

more than offset the difference in purchase price. ENERGY

STAR® labels are attached to room air-conditioners that use at

least 10 percent less energy than conventional models.

• Consider replacing your old room air-conditioners – today’s

ENERGY STAR qualified units use 30 to 40 percent less energy

than most models sold 10 to 15 years ago

• An air-conditioner’s ability to cool is rated in British Thermal

Units (Btu/hr) and/or tons. About 18 Btu/hr are required to

cool and dehumidify one square foot of floor space in the

average house or apartment. For example, a 20’ x 25’

(500 sq. ft.) room would require approximately a 9,000 Btu/hr unit

• If the unit is too large, it may lower the room temperature

quicker, but it will not be on long enough to remove excess

humidity. Cool, humid air is uncomfortable

• If the unit is too small, it has to run longer to reduce the room

temperature, so your operating costs are high. Also, it may not

cool properly

• Operate room air-conditioners on timers. They only require

about 30 minutes to cool and dehumidify a room, so there is

no need to leave them on if there’s no one home during the day

• If possible, remove window air-

conditioners for the winter. If they

must stay in place, seal around them

with caulking or tape and cover the

unit with a purchased or homemade,

airtight, insulated jacket

For more information on cooling your

home efficiently, visit NRCan’s Website

(oee.nrcan.gc.ca) to order a free copy of

Air Conditioning Your Home.

Keeping your cool

• Air sealing, insulating, and keeping

windows and doors closed are just

as effective at keeping the house cool

during the summer as they are in

keeping the heat in during the winter

• Exterior shading, such as awnings,

over-hangs, and deciduous trees,

are the most effective ways to block

excessive solar heat gain in your

home in the summer. Interior shading,

such as drapes, blinds, and reflective

window film, is also effective

24

Equipment solutions

TIPTm

25

• Your appliances and incandescent lights give off heat that

a cooling system must counteract. Turn off lights that are not

in use! Minimize the use of appliances at the hottest times of

the day. Bake, wash, dry, and iron in the early morning or

in the evening

• Use a ceiling fan alone or in conjunction with an air-

conditioner to help circulate cooled air. Fans use less energy

than air-conditioners. ENERGY STAR® qualified ceiling fans

move air up to 20 percent more efficiently than standard

ceiling fans

Thermostats

The greater the temperature difference between the inside

and outside of your home, the greater the potential for heat

loss or gain. You can reduce energy consumption by lowering

the temperature on your thermostat a few degrees while you’re

away or while you’re sleeping. During the heating season,

if you reduce the temperature in your home by 1°C over

a seven-hour period each day, you can save one percent on

your heating bill.

As a rule of thumb, don’t turn the temperature down

more than 6°C (10°F) below your normal setting in

the winter. Also, remember no matter how high you

turn up the thermostat, you will not heat your home

any quicker.

Programmable thermostats allow you to pre-program

temperature settings and they never ‘forget’ to raise or lower

the temperature of your house. For example, you can program

the thermostat to turn down the temperature of your house

at night when you are sleeping and raise it again before

you get up. Some programmable thermostats even have

a separate setting for weekend use and are compatible

with most air-conditioning systems.

If you have an air-conditioner in

your home, you should turn UP your

thermostat a few degrees during the

hot summer months to reduce air-

conditioning costs. It is not as easy

to state recommended temperature

settings for air-conditioning as it is for

heating because the air-conditioning

system must do two jobs; cool and

dehumidify the air to make you

comfortable. Generally, an efficient

and comfortable temperature zone

to maintain is between 24°C (74°F)

and 26°C (78°F), and never set the

thermostat more than 8°C (15°F)

below the outdoor temperature.

Equipment solutions


26

Where is your thermostat located? This can affect the

efficient operation of your heating or cooling system. Be

sure your thermostat is located away from direct sunlight

and blasts of cold air from an opening exterior door.

Avoid locating it above or near appliances such as lamps,

TVs, or other appliances that give off heat.

Efficient use of fireplaces

Once you have purchased and installed your fireplace,

it is important to use it wisely. The following guidelines

will help to maximize your fireplace’s performance and

minimize its energy consumption, saving on your overall

heating bill:

• If your unit has a pilot light, ensure it is turned off during

the summer

• Turn down your home’s main thermostat if possible when

the fireplace is operating

• If the fireplace has a thermostat, keep it at the lowest setting

possible when not in use (otherwise the thermostat could

cycle the fireplace on when you are not home, or when the

room is not occupied)

• Radiant heat transfer is maximized when the glass is clean.

A standard wood-burning fireplace may be traditional, but

it is not energy efficient! In fact, it removes more heated air

up the chimney than it provides. Cold air rushes in through

cracks and leaks in the home to replace the air that exits up

the chimney – even when the fireplace is not operating.

A direct vent, natural gas fireplace eliminates this problem

with a direct, outside combustion air supply. Consider a

natural gas fireplace for hard-to-heat areas or as a supplement

to electric baseboard heating

If you can’t replace your wood-burning

fireplace, here are some tips to minimize

your heat loss:

• Provide outside air for combustion.

It may be as simple as opening a

window in the room or installing a

fresh air vent for the fireplace. Contact

your local fireplace specialty store for

further advice and options

• Install tight fitting glass doors and keep

them closed when the fireplace is not

in use to prevent the home’s warm air

from escaping up the chimney

• Seal off an unused fireplace with a

home-made insulated plug. Simply

cut a piece of rigid polystyrene

insulation to fit snugly in the front

opening and decorate the plug with

either wallpaper or paint

• If your fireplace has a damper, make

sure it is closed when the fireplace is

not being used

To keep your fireplace running efficiently,

regular maintenance is a must.

Equipment solutions

TIPTm

After space heating, your water heater is the second largest

user of energy in your home. It pays to use hot water wisely!

Here are some simple tips on how to use hot water more

efficiently without affecting comfort, cleanliness or safety:

• Insulate at least the first two meters of the hot water pipe

and the first meter of the cold water pipe running from the

tank, to reduce heat loss or gain and reduce pipe ‘sweating’

problems in the summer. For safety reasons, do not place

any pipe wrap insulation within 15 cm of the exhaust vent

at the top of the natural gas water heater. The two basic

types of pipe insulation are wrap-around or slip-on,

pre-formed foam. Both are easy to install and are available

at building supply stores

• Operating your water heater at unnecessarily high

temperatures increases energy consumption and shortens

tank life. It also increases the likelihood of scalds; this is of

particular concern for young children and seniors. In fact,

the building code requires the installation of a mixing valve

when installing a new water heater to ensure a maximum

delivery temperature at the fixture of 49°C. For existing water

heaters without a mixing valve be sure to set your water

heater temperature no higher than 60°C. To reduce scalding

consider lowering the temperature to 54°C. You can test your

water temperature with a cooking thermometer held under

a running tap

• Install an energy-efficient showerhead

(less than 11 litres/minute) which

can reduce the amount of water you

use for showers by up to 50 percent.

You’ll use less water and energy and

still enjoy hot, skin-tingling showers!

• Fix dripping taps immediately.

Replacing a worn washer (just

pennies in cost) can save you up

to 800 litres monthly, at one drop

of water per second

• Replace existing kitchen and bathroom

faucet aerators with energy-efficient

ones (13 litres/minute)

• One-quarter of your hot water use is

for laundry. You can reduce that by

washing clothes in warm or cold water

and always rinsing in cold. Use the

water level controls, if your washing

machine has them

Equipment solutions

27

60%

20%

14%

6%

How your energy dollar is spent*

Space heating and cooling

Water heating

appliances

Lighting

Source: ministry of Environment and Energy

*based on an average of the three main fuels

over a year.


WATER hEATING

Exhaust fans

Here are some energy-saving tips for the efficient operation

of your exhaust fans:

• Check that your exhaust fans vent directly outside and not

simply into the attic. Are there special exhaust hoods or vents

on your roof, in your soffit or on the outside wall? Look in

your attic – can you see where and how the ducting exits?

Venting moist air into the attic can damage the attic wood

and insulation

• Replace exhaust covers if they are broken or rusted open

• Clean your kitchen fan filter periodically with soap and water

• Replace your bathroom exhaust fan’s on/off switch with a

timer switch or dehumidistat control. A timer switch allows

the exhaust fan to remove moisture for a set amount of time.

A dehumidistat control turns the exhaust fan on and off

automatically when prescribed relative humidity levels are

reached

• If buying a new exhaust fan look for an ENERGY STAR®

qualified product which uses 65 percent less energy than

standard models. A more efficient blade design and motor

means they move more air with less noise, last longer and

cost less money to operate

• Clear the lint that gathers in the dryer’s exhaust cover on a

regular basis. The lint stops the exhaust cover from closing

properly. A properly closed exhaust cover prevents the cold

outside air from entering the dryer when it’s not being used

• Internal venting of electric dryers is not recommended.

Though you recover some heat, you gain excessive moisture,

odours, and lint. For safety reasons, natural gas dryers must

never be vented inside the home

To calculate the second price tag for

one year of operation – multiply the

EnerGuide rating (kWh/yr) by local

electricity rates (dollars/kWh).

For example, the EnerGuide label

shown here for a refrigerator model

indicates a yearly operating cost of:

582 kWh/year x $0.10/kWh =

$58.20 per year

Refrigerators are rated to function for

about 17 years, so the second price tag

would be: $58.20 x 17 years = $989.40

These calculations are to be used

only as an estimate for comparison

purposes. Since everyone uses their

appliances differently, your energy

use may not be exactly the same as

that indicated on the EnerGuide label.

28

Equipment solutions

29

Equipment solutions


Operating your appliances efficiently

• All of your appliances will work more efficiently if you keep

them clean. For example, vacuum the coils at the back of the

refrigerator and clean door seals, drip pans, and filters

• Full loads are most efficient, but overloading can result in dishes

and clothes that don’t come clean

• Avoid overloading your fridge with food, since air needs to

circulate in the compartment. Your freezer, on the other hand,

works best when kept nearly full

• Keep your appliances in good working order. A malfunctioning

appliance is energy inefficient

• After purchasing a new refrigerator, you may be tempted to put

the old fridge in the basement as a spare for overflow. Today’s

refrigerators/freezers are nearly three times more energy efficient

than those built 20 years ago. That spare fridge can cost you

between $120 to $150/year in electricity or more, depending on

its age! Consider only plugging it in for special events or getting

rid of it altogether. Check with your local electric utility for a

refrigerator removal program

• Small appliances use about half the

wattage of an electric range, so use the

smallest appliance available for the

food you want to cook. For example, a

microwave oven, electric kettle, toaster

oven, and electric frying pan are more

efficient than your electric range

• If you’re going away for an extended

period of time, consider clearing out

the refrigerator and unplugging it (be

sure to prop the door open), turning

off the water heater, and unplugging

TVs with the instant-on feature

30

a standard 40-W incandescent bulb

produces about 510 lumens, whereas a

40-W fluorescent tube produces about

2150 lumens – nearly five times as much

light for the same amount of money!

Turning on energy-efficient lighting

Today’s market offers you a bewildering array of light

fixtures and bulbs. If you purchase and use energy-efficient

light bulbs, over the course of a year your savings will

certainly add up – even though lighting constitutes only

six percent of your total monthly energy costs. But

remember, the best energy-saving device for lighting is the

switch! Turn lights off when not in use.

When buying light bulbs, you probably think of watts as a

measure of brightness. In fact, the watt (W) is a measure of

energy, not of light output. A 40-W bulb uses 40 watts of

electricity, no matter what type of bulb it is. But the amount

of light it produces will vary, depending on the bulb type.

Light output is measured in lumens.

1 Incandescent bulbs

Incandescent bulbs are the standard, familiar bulbs you use

throughout your home. They are considered to be energy

inefficient because they produce more heat than light. Some

incandescents have been made more efficient by reducing

the wattage (though there is a slightly reduced light output).

Look for these energy-saving replacement bulbs, which are

commonly available: a 34-W for a 40-W; a 52-W for a 60-W;

and a 90-W for a 100-W.

Although you may find incandescent bulbs with efficient

sounding names like ‘long life’ or ‘extended life’, they are not

energy efficient. They do have a longer life span because they

only produce about 70 percent of the light that they could,

while using the same amount of energy as an equivalent

wattage regular bulb. Incandescent bulbs are slated to be

banned from the Canadian market by the year 2012, making

way for more efficient lighting choices.

2 Compact fluorescents

You are probably familiar with the

standard long tube fluorescent ceiling

fixtures used in homes, stores and

offices. The same technology has been

improved for energy efficiency and

light quality, and is packaged in a small

compact shape for use in lamps and

other lighting fixtures.

There are a variety of wattages, shapes,

and styles of compact fluorescents

for different locations and uses in

Equipment solutions

YOUR LIGhTING ChOICES

TIPTm

your home. Although they are 70 percent more efficient than

incandescent bulbs and last 10 times longer, because of their

initial cost, they should only replace those bulbs that are used

for a minimum of three hours/day.

Follow these steps to determine where and what kind of energy-

efficient lighting you should install for maximum benefit:

• Note which light fixtures are used for a minimum of three hours/

day. If certain lights aren’t used extensively each day they are

already very efficient

• Once identified, record what the light is used for (reading,

general room lighting); where the fixture is located (ceiling,

table lamp, inside or outside); style and dimensions of the

fixture (space available for a new bulb); and the wattage of

the existing incandescent bulb

• When you take into consideration the amount of time the light

is used, the shape and style of the existing fixture, and the

function of the light, your home may have only eight to twelve

light fixtures which are appropriate for the new energy-efficient

compact fluorescents, halogens, and light emitting diode bulbs

3 Halogens

When compared to incandescents, halogens produce a whiter

light, last two to four times longer, and use about 40 percent

less energy to produce the same amount of light; however,

they are slightly more expensive to purchase. They are a good

replacement for outdoor flood and spot lights. For example,

a 45-W PAR (parabolic aluminum reflector) halogen spot

light replaces a 75-W PAR incandescent spot light.

There is another type of halogen bulb, often called a low

voltage or quartz, which requires a specifically designed

halogen fixture. This bulb provides a bright, white, focused

light suitable for highlighting art work or use as a desk lamp.

4 Light-Emitting Diodes (LEDs)

The latest addition to efficient lighting

is light-emitting diodes (LEDs). LEDs

are commonly used for traffic signals,

exit signs, flashlights, and seasonal

light strings. They are just starting to

be developed for home lighting. LEDs

boast a 90 percent efficiency over

traditional lighting and have a much

longer lifespan. They are small in size,

very durable, and produce an intense

white light with very little waste heat.

However they are relatively expensive

but this barrier will weaken as their

availability strengthens.

The best energy-saving device for

lighting is the switch. Turn lights

off when not in use.

31

TIPTm

Look for compact fluorescent bulbs and

fixtures that carry the ENErGy STar®

symbol to ensure you are purchasing

the most energy-efficient lighting products

on the market.

Equipment solutions


solu

tions

& ti

ps

32

building envelope solutions and simple tips

Wise Energy Guide

But there’s good news! Preventing cold

air from entering and exiting your home

is easy to do.

Of all the energy-saving jobs that need

to be done around the house, caulking and

weatherstripping are perfect candidates for

do-it-yourself projects.

A thorough and effective air sealing job

can save you money on your heating bill.

Of course, the first step is to figure out

where the cold drafts are entering and where

the warm, moist air is leaving. Statistically,

air leakage in a house is broken down as

illustrated on the right.

Playing detective for drafts

You won’t need any fancy tools to find the

leaks. With the help of the illustration on

the right and your eyes and hands, you can

identify areas in need of air sealing. The best

time to feel for drafts is on a cold or windy

Is your house leaking money?

If your home is like most, the greatest

amount of heat loss is from air leakage;

heated air escaping to the colder

outdoors through hundreds of tiny

holes and cracks around your home.

In fact, up to 40 percent of your home’s

heating bill is spent on heating cold

air that has leaked into your home,

because warm air has leaked out. The

movement of air in and out

of your home is increased by the

wind, the difference between inside

and outside temperatures, and the

operation of mechanical systems in

your home, such as dryers, exhaust

fans and furnaces. It is not unusual for

your home to undergo minor expansion

and contraction as it adjusts to climate

changes, thereby creating air leaks as

your home ages and weathers.

six

In an unfinished basement, you don’t have to wait for a

cold or windy day to detect drafts – just look for spider

webs! Generally, where there’s a web, there’s a draft.

AIR SEALING

TIPTm

building envelope solutions and simple tipsday by feeling for the cold air that’s entering in through the cracks. But, if you see a crack and don’t feel a cold

draft, the heated air is probably exiting the house and the crack needs to be sealed.

Ceiling leaks can be a little more difficult to find; try looking for dirty insulation in the attic, as this indicates

indoor air is being cleaned by the insulation as it exits your home. You can pinpoint the location of

light fixtures and ceiling fans under the insulation by measuring their distance from the walls in the

room below. Then, it’s easy to locate them in the attic by using a tape measure and the wall-to-fixture

measurements. Even though locating and then air sealing the ceiling penetrations may be difficult or

awkward, it is the most important step in reducing your home’s air leakage and minimizing moisture

damage in the attic. If you choose to have a home audit, your air leaks will be easy to find when

the certified auditor turns on the blower door. This equipment depressurizes your home forcing outside

air to come in through all cracks.

33



Windows (including

the trim around the

windows) 12%

Electrical

outlets and switches 4%

Wood-burning

fireplace 11%

Exterior doors

(including the trim

around the doors) 8%

Ceiling penetrations

(i.e. interior wall

penetrations, light fixtures,

ceiling fans, plumbing

stack, chimneys) 23%

Sill plates (i.e. the first piece of wood at the top of the foundation wall and at each

floor assembly at the baseboard) 27%

Pipes and wire entrances (for heating fuel, cable television, telephone, electrical

services, etc.) 6%, Attic hatch 5%

*All percentages are approximate and may vary from home to home depending on its age and condition. Source: R2000 Training manual

Percentage of air leakage* in a typical house

Exhaust fans (through

poor fitting dampers when

not in use, and through

the cracks around the fan

when installed in ceilings or

walls) 4%

34

Caulking

Caulking is a putty-like substance that is applied to non-

moveable joints around the home, such as the edges of

windows and door trim. You must caulk on the inside of

the house to provide both a draft seal and a moisture block.

Blocking the moisture is most important since it prevents the

moist air inside your house from penetrating into the walls

and attic, and possibly accumulating and causing moisture

damage to the insulation and wood framing. Although

caulking is usually only done on the inside of the home, a

bead of caulking is also applied around outside window and

door frames to prevent rain from getting into the walls.

Exterior brick, siding, and storm windows all have built-in

vent holes that must not be caulked. These holes provide an

exit point for moisture.

Some key points to keep in mind when purchasing and

applying caulking:

• Make sure that the caulking material you are using is suitable

for the job and is properly applied to ensure a better, longer-

lasting job. Some characteristic variations include: flexibility,

ability to paint over, ability to adhere to various surfaces,

temperature conditions for application, ease of preparation

and clean up, expected lifetime, and cost

• Purchase a good quality, durable caulking gun. A good

caulking gun is easier to use and the finished result will

be neater

• Before applying the caulking, clean the surfaces to remove

dirt and grime. Follow the manufacturer’s directions on the

container. If improperly installed, even the best caulking

available will do little to prevent air leakage

• To minimize the problem of too much caulking for the crack, cut the caulking tube nozzle to suit the size of gap to fill. Caulk the smaller cracks first and increase the nozzle hole

size for the wider gaps

• Practice on scrap wood before

you attempt the baseboards. When

practicing, try cutting the nozzle flat

and pushing the caulking into the

crack while holding the caulking gun

at a 90 degree angle. This is often more

effective than cutting the nozzle on

a slant and pulling the caulking tube

and gun, which only lays a bead of

caulking on top of the crack

Weatherstripping

Weatherstripping is used around doors,

the opening parts of windows, and attic

hatches. You can choose from many

different types of weatherstripping;

from materials such as foam, vinyl,

rubber, and metal. There are also

different means of attaching them,

such as tape and screws.

When properly applied,

weatherstripping makes the moveable

joint airtight and still allows the door,

window, or attic hatch to be easily

opened or closed.

Some key points to keep in mind

when you purchase and apply

weatherstripping:

• Before heading to the building supply

store, be sure to note how your doors

and windows operate, the size of gap,

and colour


• Good weatherstripping will be easy to install, aesthetically

pleasing, and provide a long-lasting, effective seal

• Use effective products that can perform in cold weather and

in high-traffic areas

• Clean surfaces before attaching adhesive-backed

weatherstripping

For more information on where and how to air seal,

see chapter seven.

How to stop the great escape!

From the very moment heat is generated inside your home,

it tries to escape to the colder outdoors. Over and above air

leakage, heat is also lost through the ceiling, basement, windows

and doors, and walls by conduction, convection, and radiation.

The rate of heat loss depends on the difference between inside

and outside temperatures and the insulation resistance met by

escaping heat. Increasing the insulation in these areas reduces

the heat loss.

Does your home need extra insulation?

If snow is melting on your roof on a cold, dull winter day,

you likely don’t have enough insulation in the attic. If snow

is disappearing from around the sides of your house, you

probably need more insulation on the basement walls.

Sometimes it may be obvious where you need insulation;

other times it may be difficult to determine the best locations

to add insulation.

To determine payback on your investment you must consider

the ease of doing the job and the cost of materials. However, if

comfort is your priority, upgrade insulation in your home in

any order – as long as air sealing is done first. Air sealing will

achieve the fastest payback and will help to protect the wood

framing and insulation from moisture damage.

Refer to chapter seven to request more

information when considering adding

insulation.

R-value: The measure of insulation

Insulation is measured based on its

heat loss resistance: R-value for short

(RSI-value in metric). A higher R-value

number indicates a more effective level

of insulation.

As insulation is made from different

materials, there are varying R-values

for the same thickness of insulation.

To check the insulation levels of

exterior walls, turn the power off and

remove the cover of an electrical outlet.

If there is a gap, you may be able to

see the insulation. Push a thin wooden

stick between the electrical box and

the drywall or plaster to the back of

the wall and measure the depth. In the

attic, slide a ruler down the side of a

floor joist and measure the depth of

insulation.

The recommended R-value of

insulation may vary depending

on where you live. Check with

your local building department for

current required levels. The amount

of insulation you can add may also

depend on how much physical space

is available in the walls or attic.

35


INSULATING YOUR hOmE


36


Vapour barriers

Vapour barriers stop moisture

travelling directly through a material,

like drywall, by diffusion. They are

usually constructed of six millimetre

polyethylene and installed on the warm

side of insulation (normally right behind

the drywall).

Vapour barriers improve as a house gets

older because each coat of paint and

some wallpapers help resist moisture

travelling through the drywall or plaster.

To make the vapour barrier most effective,

the six millimetre polyethylene needs to

be sealed at every seam with acoustical

caulking (a tar-like caulking). Together,

the polyethylene and the caulking form

an air/vapour barrier.

Protecting the insulation with air and vapour barriers

To be effective and to minimize moisture damage, you must

protect insulation with both an air and vapour barrier. In the

winter, the air that leaves your home is warm and moisture-

laden. When this moisture meets cold surfaces in the walls

and attic, it will condense and can then be absorbed by the

wood framing and insulation. If insulation becomes wet, its

ability to resist heat loss is diminished. There are numerous

ways to create effective air/vapour barriers.

Air barriers

Air barriers prevent indoor air, which is carrying moisture,

from exiting through cracks. Air barriers also prevent wind

from whistling through the insulation. Some insulation, such as

glass fiber, rock wool, and cellulose, resist heat loss by trapping

small pockets of air. The greater the number of undisturbed air

pockets, the higher the R-value. If wind can blow through this

insulation, its ability to resist heat loss is greatly reduced.

To be effective an air barrier must be resistant to air movement,

continuous, and durable. There are several ways to create an

air barrier. The simplest method is to apply caulking or foam

and install weatherstripping on the indoor cracks and leaks to

prevent air and moisture from entering or exiting the house. In

new construction, including additions to your home and new

siding, especially designed housewrap materials are wrapped

around the outside of the house behind the siding or brick. This

material resists wind, but still allows any moisture that gets in

the wall to diffuse through.

Air barriers are very important. In fact, studies indicate that an

air barrier is 100 times more effective than a vapour barrier at

stopping moisture from getting into a wall or attic.

37

Reducing window heat loss

Here are some tips to improve your window’s insulating value:

• Heavy drapes or energy-efficient window coverings can be

used to reduce heat loss, especially at night. During the winter,

be sure to open your drapes to allow heat and air to get to the

glass to help minimize condensation problems and to allow the

winter sun into your home for some free heat. In the summer,

block the hot sun by closing your drapes during the day,

installing awnings or reflective window film

• Improve the thermal resistance of the existing window glazing

by installing additional layers of glazing. This can be done

by adding either a loose fitting exterior storm window or an

airtight ‘interior storm window’, such as shrink wrap plastic

that is attached to your interior window frame with double

sided tape and ‘shrunk’ drum tight with a hair dryer

Some tips for purchasing new windows:

To identify energy-efficient windows and sliding glass doors

look for the ENERGY STAR® label. The label indicates that the

product has met the government’s requirements for efficiency

and for which climate zone(s) the product has been designed.

Four climate zones have been designated across Canada, the

more zones a product qualifies for, the more energy efficient it is.

ENERGY STAR information is printed in the product literature

for each model. ENERGY STAR qualified windows and sliding

glass doors will have many of the following features:

• double or triple glazing with sealed insulating glass unit

• low-emissivity (low-e) glass

• inert gas, such as argon or krypton, in the sealed unit

• low conductivity or ‘warm edge’ spacer bars

• insulated frames and sashes

• superior air-tightness

To minimize heat loss, windows must

be insulated and air sealed at the

frame-to-wall joint when installed.

You need to confirm this procedure

with the contractor prior to and during

the installation.

To ensure a quality installation of your

new windows, choose a contractor

who has been trained and certified by

Window Wise. Window Wise is a quality

assurance program that independently

audits and certifies contractors and

window manufacturers, and conducts

comprehensive window installation

training for installers. Look for the

Window Wise logo and be protected

by an industry-backed guarantee. For

more information on Window Wise

and to find certified companies,

visit windowwise.com



To determine the approximate r-value

of batt or loose fill insulation, multiply

the depth (in inches) by 3. For example,

4 inches x 3 = r-12. approximate r-value

= Depth of insulation in inches x 3

TIPTm

38

1 Attic

Though it has a relatively low heat loss, 10 to 15 percent, the attic is the first place

to consider adding more insulation. It is generally the easiest and least expensive

area to insulate. If there is room, attic insulation should be 13 to 16 inches deep

(R-40 to R-50) and evenly distributed. Insulation can be kept away from the soffit

vents with the use of foam, plastic or cardboard baffles. Caulk or foam all attic

floor cracks prior to adding more insulation.

2 Basement

Since an unfinished basement has a high heat loss, 20 to 25 percent, adding

exterior or interior insulation is a major opportunity to improve your home’s

thermal efficiency. Basement insulation is most cost-effective when done in

conjunction with finishing the basement as living space, or when digging up

the exterior to repair foundation wall drainage. Basement walls should be air

sealed and insulated with at least R-10 to R-20 including the header space

between the floor joists and all the way to the basement floor.

3 Windows and doors

Windows and doors represent about 15 to 20 percent of your home’s heat loss.

Remember, this is the heat loss through the glass, wood, and framing materials;

not heat loss from air leakage (heat loss from air leakage is included in the air leakage

statistic of 30 to 40 percent). Depending on the age, operation, and design of your

windows and doors, you may want to consider replacing them. Consider replacing

windows and doors if they do not operate easily, are in poor condition, or are

difficult to weatherstrip.

4 Walls

Adding insulation to walls is cost effective if done in coordination with renovating

the interior walls or re-siding. Don’t miss the opportunity to add a continuous air

barrier over top of the insulation before installing the siding.


ThE FOLLOWING PRIORITY LIST WILL ASSIST YOU IN dETERmINING WhERE YOUR ENERGY dOLLARS ANd EFFORTS ARE bEST SPENT:

info

rmat

ion

Wise Energy Guide

39

sevenLooking for more information

Ontario Ministry of Energy and

Infrastructure (OMEI)

Visit their website mei.gov.on.ca for

information on:

• General energy efficiency information

• Provincial conservation programs such

as rebates for Ontario Home Energy

Savings Program

Ontario Power Authority (OPA)

Visit their website powerauthority.on.ca

for information on:

• Electricity conservation programs and rebates

• Renewable energy and the Green Energy Act

Union Gas

Visit our website uniongas.com for

information on:

• Energy Conservation programs and education

• Natural gas products, cost comparisons and

where to buy or rent

• Rate and fuel cost comparisons by region

There is a wide variety of free government literature available on each of the topics

you have read about in this guide. Before you undertake any major projects, you

should check out the available information.

Canada Mortgage and Housing

Corporation (CMHC)

Order publications by phone:

1 800 663-2642 or through their

website: cmhc.ca

• About Your House – Wide variety of

fact sheets on common housing

questions such as moisture, mold,

ventilation, carbon monoxide, ice dams,

windows, hiring a contractor, etc.

• The Renovation Series – Fact sheets on

renovation projects such as basements,

attics, different styles and ages of homes

Natural Resources Canada (NRCan) and

the Office of Energy Efficiency (OEE)

Order publications by phone

1 800 367-2000 or through their website

oee.nrcan.gc.ca

• Individual brochures and website

information on air leakage, insulation,

moisture, windows and doors, heating/

cooling, appliances and lighting

• Information on EnerGuide labels

and ratings and ENERGY STAR®

federal rebates

• Keeping The Heat In – 130 plus pages of

House as a System and renovation ideas

for all areas of your home


TM

TM



your

hom

e

Now that you’ve read this guide, the rest is up to

you. The hints and tips in these pages can help you

determine how energy efficient your home already

is, and what energy-efficient measures to implement.

With the handy Home Energy Checklist insert, your

first step is easy – take an hour-long walking tour of

your home to pinpoint areas that need improving.

Then roll up your sleeves, get to work and get your

home in shape!

If you’re not already a natural gas consumer,

you may want to consider converting to natural

gas space and water heating. Also, there are many

energy-efficient natural gas appliances which can

reduce your energy bills.

Visit uniongas.com/energyefficiency for more

information about how natural gas can help

you save energy and money.

Get your home in shape

note

s Wise Energy Guide notes


Printed on recycled paper using environmentally-friendly inks. © Union Gas Limited 2010 06/2010 UG20100115

Natural Gas.Simply Smart.

TM

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Natural gas is a primary source of energy.

It’s delivered directly to your home, ready to use.

Electricity, on the other hand, needs to be generated,

and that process of generation is often fuelled by natural

gas. Using energy to make energy isn’t efficient. Natural gas

goes straight to your home with no stops in between.

No other home heating energy source does that.

Now that’s smart energy.

Make the smart energy choice and select

clean, efficient natural gas.

Visit uniongas.com for more information

about the benefits of using natural gas.


wise energy guide

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