F O OT W E A R N E W S .C O M / M AY 2 , 2 0 1 6 / @ F O OT W E A R N E W S

MILESTONE ISSUE

After two decades of explosive growth, Kevin Plank and a powerful cast of stars such as Misty Copeland are aiming to double Under Armour’s booming business.

WITHIN REACH

GREATS STRIDESHow a start-up sneaker brand speaks directto millennials

HOLY SMOKESWhat celebs & Chainsmokersrocked out in at Coachella

SUITE TALKINGThe industry’s brightest lookto the future at the FN Summit

@FFANYSHOESHOW FUTURE DATES: AUG 2�4 | NOV 30�DEC 2

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TUESDAY, JUNE 7TH |

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MEET TALENT IN THE FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY!

PRESENTATION TO THE WINNER OF THE JOSEPH C. MOORE SCHOLARSHIP AWARD TO ATTEND THE ARSUTORIA SCHOOL, ITALY.

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14Under Armour partner Stephen Curry in his signature Curry Two sneakers

ON THE COVER

Photographed by AXEL DUPEUX

INSIDER

5 Future Vision This year’s FN Summit

lineup will bring together some of the

biggest names in the biz.

7 FN Spy The Chainsmokers kick back at

the Coachella festival, and “An American

in Paris” stars love Repetto ballet flats.

8 Inside Grenson’s 150th How the

British heritage brand is reflecting on the

past and forging ahead.

9 Bed Stu’s Big Plans The company

is pushing women’s and retail.

UNDER ARMOUR @ 20

11 Baltimore’s Son CEO Kevin Plank

gets candid about becoming the smartest

brand in the business.

14 The Curry Recipe Inside one of

the industry’s most successful athlete

partnerships.

16 Under Cover Twenty little-known

facts about the firm — and its founder.

18 Principal Partner How Misty

Copeland is helping UA redefine the

athletic game.

21 Campaign Season Winning clips

from the brand’s advertising.

22 Creative Calling UA’s head of

innovation talks wearable tech and the

future of 3-D printing.

24 Keeping Score The key stats in the

firm’s financial performance.

25 Top 10 Shoe Hits The standout

styles in UA’s footwear portfolio.

THE LIST

27 Shoe of the Week Count on Article

No.’s neutral style to be a hit this season.

28 Greats Mysteries What is the

secret to the direct-to-consumer brand’s

quick rise?

30 Galaxy Quest Men’s sneakers will

make a big bang this fall with cosmic

details.

31 Closet Case Tastemaker Marcus Troy

dishes on his expansive shoe collection.

32 Fest’s Bests What performers and

celebs lace up in at Coachella.

33 Retro Revival How Gola is courting

American fans with its heritage product.

FN PICK

34 The B’s Knees No one had a bigger

week than Beyoncé, who stepped out in

Cavalli to start her Formation World Tour.

T R A C K T H E T R E N D S

ISSUE May 16 / AD CLOSE May 4

W I T H F N ’ S R U N N I N G I S S U E

FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8118 OR LSCHOR@FOOTWEARNEWS.COM

I N S I D E R

Big names, bold ideas: A look at the powerful lineup of speakers set to hit the FN Summit stage.

By FN Staff

Future Speak

Clockwise from top: Gordon Thompson, Jay Schmidt, Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman, Jeff Espersen, Cape Capener, Pierre Hardy, Jim Weber, Dick Johnson, Aurora James, Adam and Ryan Goldston, Sarah Flint, Rob DeMartini 5

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or companies to survive and

thrive in these challenging times,

innovative leadership strategies

are essential.

The “Futurists” who will take the

stage at this year’s FN Summit in New York stand

out in a crowded marketplace thanks to their

forward-thinking agendas, hot product and savvy

marketing tactics.

They will share valuable lessons at the event,

set for June 6 at the Asia Society in New York. The

summit will coincide with FFANY market week

and the CFDA Awards that evening.

Representatives from two major retailers will

be on hand — Dick Johnson, Foot Locker presi-

dent and CEO, and Jeff Espersen, general manager

of merchandising for Zappos.com.

Both companies have undergone significant

transformations in recent years. In the athletic

market, Foot Locker is firing on all cylinders and

has aggressive growth plans in the works.

“[I’m not looking for just] one big op-

portunity but a year of multiple ones

to drive performance across our

core business, expand our position

in kids, pursue opportunities in

Europe, build our apparel business,

[expand] our powerful digital busi-

ness, deliver growth in our women’s

business and work with and build the

best team in retail,” Johnson told FN

earlier this year.

Zappos, which is forging ahead

with its controversial holacracy

corporate structure, is working

to become a bigger player in

the high-end space with its

renamed Zappos Luxury site

(formerly Zappos Couture)

and continued focus on

offering the best assortment

of brands across the footwear

arena.

In addition to top names

from the retail world, several

key designers will also speak this

year. Marchesa design duo Georgina

Chapman and Keren Craig, who have

built the label into a major fashion force, will

discuss how they plan to make a big splash in

footwear.

At New York Fashion Week in September,

Chapman and Craig sent models down the run-

way in shoes of their own making for the first

time since the brand’s inception in 2004. “We’ve

dreamt about this for such a long time. Seeing

ourselves as a lifestyle brand, shoes were some-

thing we’ve always wanted to do, but we needed

to find the right people to do it with,” Chapman

told FN, referring to the designers’ partnership

with AKH Group.

While Marchesa is just starting out in the shoe

business, Pierre Hardy has been a defining force

for decades. The Parisian designer, who also has

been the mastermind behind Hermés accessories

for the past 25 years, will talk about his unique

approach and longevity in a high-end business

that has seen so many people come and go.

Hardy is an inspiration for many emerging

talents in the industry, and some of them will

be onstage: Sarah Flint, APL’s Adam and Ryan

Goldston and Aurora James. They will participate

in a special panel that examines the challenges

they face as young brands trying to break into a

competitive business.

It will be a particularly big day for James, the

winner of FN’s 2015 emerging talent honor who

is vying for the Swarovski Award for Accessory

Design at the CFDA Awards that night.

“My shoes are very different-looking,” James

told FN last year. The 30-year-old designer — who

produces her women’s, men’s and kids’ shoes

in South Africa, Ethiopia, Morocco and Kenya

— stays true to regional styles by using natural

materials in looks such

as her fur Babouche

mule and tire-sole sandal.

While unique designs

are important in the fashion

market, strong product is crucial in

the athletic arena, too.

Brooks CEO Jim Weber will talk about fueling

Brooks’ momentum in the running market. The

brand garnered the top spot in specialty running

in 2015. “We believe a run can flat-out change a

day, a life, the world, and we are committed to

bringing more runners into our brand and this

sport,” Weber said earlier this year.

At Supra, president Cape Capener is charging

ahead with growth at the skate brand, now under

the K-Swiss Global Brands and E.Land umbrella.

He will discuss the intricacies of the ever-evolving

skate market and fueling the next phase of growth

through social media and buzzy marketing.

Speaking of evolution, Caleres Inc. continues

to transform, and the firm is now eyeing growth

in the men’s arena. Gordon Thompson, the well-

known Nike and Cole Haan alumnus, is working

with Jay Schmidt, president of Caleres’ brand

portfolio, on this new effort.

Lucie Greene, head of the innovation group at

J. Walter Thompson, will present exclusive find-

ings from the company’s “future of retail” report

about hot markets.

Sponsor speakers include Rob DeMartini,

president and CEO of New Balance, who will

discuss the AAFA’s critical role in a huge election

year. Greg Petro of First Insight will unveil his

observations about the shifting industry.

And TrueFit’s William Adler will sound off on

how retailers and brands can leverage the com-

pany’s first ever “genome” for shoes and apparel.

For more information about this year’s FN Summit, email Sue Jin Lee at slee@wwd.com or call (646) 428-1542.

6

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“Seeing ourselves as a lifestyle brand, shoes were always something we wanted to do.”Georgina Chapman, Marchesa

Clockwise from top:Greg Petro, William Adler and Lucie Greene

Marchesashoes onthe runway

7I N S I D E RThe Chainsmokers’ debut EP, “Bouquet,” was released in October 2015.

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Chart-topping DJs Drew Taggart and Alex Pall — better known as The Chainsmokers, the team behind such tracks as “#Selfie” and “Roses” — always try to look smart when performing. Whether in a club or performing a recent set at the Coachella music festival in California, dapper style is paramount — and sneakers are the duo’s footwear of choice. Here, Pall takes FN behind the scenes.

We heard you’re both sneaker fans.“We’re not the kind of fans who go out there and trade shoes and collect them. We care about the sneakers and shoes we wear, but don’t own a thousand pairs. We continue to buy the same ones we really like. Drew loves Vans, and I love Adidas’ Yeezy 350 Boosts. All of the recent Adidas gear has been great and really clean.”

Does playing in clubs warrant wearing sneakers more often than not?“Yeah, sneakers are super-in. If you’re not wearing a super-clean shoe that’s popping, like a certain Nike or Adidas running shoe, it’s also cool to wear a beat-up pair of sneakers, too.”

What shoes did you wear at Coachella?“I had on the Saint Laurent high-tops sneakers with stars on the side, and Drew had on his low-top marble Vans.”

What are your thoughts on the spirit and movement of festival fashion? “Coachella is one of the coolest festivals in the world. It’s part fashion show, part music festival and part social gathering. With all those different parts, the festival creates this unique experience. Tickets are really hard to come by — it’s special.”

Favorite footwear labels?“We probably wear Vans the most. Drew and I both have tons of Vans in our closet, but Adidas would be a close second.”

Do you have a specific footwear shop you frequent?“We both just moved from New York City. There’s a store there, Kith, and I’m super-bummed there’s not one in West Hollywood, where we’re now living.”

Spinning Style

Spy glances at The Chainsmokers’ footwear nods both on and off the dance floor.

Custom CreationsYou can make an appointment for almost anything, and now ballet-flat fittings are in the mix, too. Spanish-made label Margaux, created by co-founders Alexa Buckley and Sarah Pierson, recently opened a studio in New York City’s Flatiron neighborhood for appointment fittings. “It’s a fun way to capture the demand of Manhattanites, typically on the Upper East Side or often visiting guests in hotels,” said Buckley. The space also features “Margaux Mondays,” when walk-ins are welcome. “People love to see the collection and colors in person,” said Pierson.

By Kristen Henning

With contributions fromJessica Kaplan and Margaret Sutherlin

SpottedIt was all about Roger Vivier in Los Angeles last week.The brand and its creative director, Bruno Frisoni, hosted big names at a dinner at Lucques in West Holly-wood, Calif. On hand was “Mad Men” dame January Jones, decked out in a pair of Vivier black heels with the signature ball at the base of the stiletto. Other notables in attendance included Demi Moore, Lisa Eisner and stylist Elizabeth Stewart.

January Jones

Fresh FaceMadonna has a new Material Girl. The singer’s label with Iconix Brand Group Inc. tapped its latest partner: recording artist and social-media star Pia Mia Perez, who was named fashion director for the line. “Madonna is so amazing — from her music to her style to her stage performances, sheis the ultimate icon,” said Pia Mia, who has 4 million Instagram followers.

Pia Mia

Dancers Studio If there’s one thing that gets Leanne Cope and Shannon Marie Rugani more excited than a George Gershwin tune, it’s their favorite pair of dance shoes from Repetto. The two cast members from the Broadway hit “An American in Paris” stopped by the brand’s Soho New York shop to talk about the show. “When they brought out the street shoes, my first pair of shoes was the Michael Jackson-inspired flats,” said Rugani, who wears Repetto’s custom pointe shoes onstage. Cope, who plays the lead Lise, also wears Repetto. “You spend your life in pointe shoes, so you don’t want your street shoes to be uncomfort-able, too,” she said.

Rugani and Cope

Margaux flats

Drew Taggart and Alex Pall

renson is turning 150 — and to com-memorate the occasion, it’s launching several new projects.

The British heritage brand, originally established in 1866 in Northampton-

shire, England, will celebrate by first looking to its past. In July, it will rerelease eight archival footwear styles, spanning the decades from the 1900s to the 1970s. The shoes are made as true to the originals as possible, but they feature modernized updates such as widened footbeds.

“There wasn’t a great archive of physical shoes, but I found a few really nice things,” said Tim Little, Grenson’s CEO, who joined in 2005. “For the rest, I went on eBay [for inspiration], and I bought around 100 shoes.”

Highlights from the special collection include the Edwardian cap-toe boot from around 1912, which had a unique high-shine leather called the “Glace Kid.” A basket woven lace-up, named the Corsica, was originally introduced in spring 1975 and reflected a need for lighter shoes in the market (now, it was updated with Grenson’s signature Goodyear welting).

“The lovely thing about the factory is these crafts-men can do anything, and they love the challenge of something new,” said Little. “There were a lot

of details on the [archival] shoes that we don’t do anymore.”

Of course, craftsmanship is what the brand has built itself upon. Grenson founder William Green first opened its Green’s Yard factory in Rushden, Northamptonshire, in 1874, but moved operations to Queen Street in 1895. In 2013, Little relocated the factory to a more sophisticated space down the street — a move that literally, and symbolically, reflected a move into more modern times.

Retailers are attracted to Grenson’s mixture of the classic with the new. “Grenson’s shoes pair perfectly with everything from suits to denim,” said Kevin Harter, Bloomingdale’s VP of fashion direction for men’s and home. “Every Grenson shoe showcases unmatched detail, and there is a story behind every style.”

While referencing its rich history, Grenson is also thinking about its next steps — and what better way than by tapping the current collaboration craze.

For fall ’16, the label will launch a new offshoot collection called “4” — a men’s line focused on four styles and four colorways. The shoes are made by Grenson’s factory and designed in collaboration with Shinsuke Takizawa, founder of Neighborhood, and Kazuki Kuraishi, a designer for Adidas Originals. Little said the project evolved originally after meeting with Takizawa and Kuraishi a few times in Japan. “Four is a very special number in Japan. It has certain connotations of luck,” said Little. “This isn’t necessarily a sales-based thing. It’s just a creative project.”

The initial collection includes three boot styles and a lace-up dress shoe — priced from $715 to $740 — and are infused with vibrant color pops. Although fall is its debut showing, Little said the project will potentially continue every season.

As it ramps up its new product offerings, Grenson plans to focus on growing the business side of things this year, too. The brand saw a 15 percent growth in 2015, but hopes to further expand its retail footprint. It recently opened its first store outside of the U.K. — in New York’s Soho neighborhood. Little said another U.S. store could be in the near future.

“The most important market to me, outside of the U.K., is America. It’s the second-biggest market for us,” said Little. “There’s scope for more [stores] in New York. And we also have a nice business on the West Coast. But it’s all organic with us. We don’t have a huge investor that’s saying, ‘Let’s open 17 stores tomorrow.’ ”

Though men’s still makes up 75 percent of the business, the women’s collection, which launched four years ago, is another big focus.

While the brand has found its steady stride for now, Little acknowledges his work is nowhere near done — yet. “It’s been hard work this year, [more dif-ficult] than it’s been in the past six years,” said Little. “We’re growing nicely. But it’s definitely not getting easier — especially when you’re not the new kid on the block anymore.”

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As it marks a major milestone, British brand Grenson is rolling out a range of collections. By Christian Allaire

I N S I D E R8 The Grenson brand moniker was first registered in the U.K. in 1913.

“It’s been hard work this year, [more difficult]

than it’s been in the past six years.”

Tim Little

The Merits OfGetting Older

A nubuck bootfrom Grenson’snew “4” collection

merging Londondesigner Camilla Elphick is hoping her playful, whimsical aesthetic will give her an edge in a

competitive industry. With a flair for bright color, femi-

nine embellishments and witty prints, Elphick — who launched her collection four seasons ago — is all about adding an unexpected twist to her designs.

“I tend to like wearing a black outfit and just have the shoes pop,” said the designer. “We find that our best-sellers are actually the moreoutrageous shoes.”

For fall ’16, she explored all things British by incorporating tartans and shearling on block-heeled boots. She is developing her spring ’17 collection, which will draw inspiration from the nostalgic, saccharine Vaporwave trend. Elphick first became known for the Pez shoes, designed as part of her graduate collection and, as the

name suggests, inspired by the famous Austrian candy. The color-block pumps feature appliqués in the shape of the cartoons decorating the Pez mechani-cal dispensers, while the heels incorpo-rate the Pez logo.

Hoping to build on the success of the first style, Elphick — who in Febru-ary won the first Future British award, an initiative launched by the British Fashion Council and U.K. retailer Boden — is introducing Pez slip-on sneakers for fall.

The designer’s focus on whimsical looks isn’t surprising given the list of London-based creatives she interned for before striking out on her own. While developing her graduate collec-tion at the London College of Fashion,

Elphick simultane-ously worked for Charlotte Dellal —after approaching her in a coffee shop. Prior to that, she interned for Paul Andrew, Nicholas Kirkwood and Sophia Webster.

“I always used to watch Sophia [Webster] and observe her drawing techniques; it taught me a lot,” said Elphick, whose designs have been worn by Leandra Medine, Chloe Moretz and Alexa Chung.

Following the success of the Pez shoes, Elphick set out to create other signature styles, namely the Sixties-inspired “Silver Lining” block heel boots in bold metallic shades.

Leannee Walsh, buying manager at Avenue 32, said Elphick’s seasonal items have resonated with the site’s consumer.

“Camilla combines femininity, color and wit, which resonates with the Avenue client,” said Walsh.

Other retailers stocking the brand include Luisa Via Roma in Italy, Level Shoe District in Dubai and Paul and Joe in France. Elphick also operates her own e-commerce site.

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The rising British designer aims to carve a niche in a crowded luxury market.

By Natalie Theodosi

I N S I D E R 9At Coachella, Bed Stu partnered with bloggers New Darlings and Haute Pink Pretty.

Camilla Elphick Charts Next Steps

A CamillaElphick lifestyle image

On the heels of its recent boutique opening in Malibu, Calif., Bed Stu is working to generate more buzz with a women’s category push, interna-tional growth and an investment in digital — including a revamp of its e-commerce site.

The new store is a key part of the company’s plan for the future. “We are inviting consumers to see the full product range and displaying it in the best way possible,” said brand CFO and COO Andrew Forbes. “Most boutiques don’t carry the range of product, so having your own store gives you an opportunity to show some of the directional product.”

The selection now includes a larger variety of Italian-produced product for the women’s category, in addition to men’s looks. A majority of the shoes are still produced in Mexico; the family-owned business was founded with handcrafted roots. Price points for the core line range from $125 to $400, while Italian-made product goes up to $900. “Our women’s business is growing, and we’re meeting the demand that’s out there,” said Forbes.

Plus, the company is passionate about having a more sustainableselection, with a move toward organic vegetable tanned leathers.

“We believe it’s the right thing to do,” said Forbes of the initiative.

Bed Stu Eyes More ExpansionThe brand is expanding its retail presence both stateside and internationally.

“Consumers are looking to com-panies to be real [and open] about the effect their product has on the environment.”

While the brand has plans to open additional locations in the U.S., Forbes said the expansion would be calculated.“We’re growing carefully at the right pace,” he said. “We’re not planning to become a major retailer. It’s important for a luxury brand to have some flagship locations to grow and represent the brand properly.”

International growth is also a focus — the brand recently launched with Amazon China. Bed Stu is also expanding in Canada, Europe and Australia.

As for digital, the website is getting several updates to include better customer service and to focus on more lifestyle visuals. A shopping app will also launch this year.

In fact, the website features a blog that showcases items such as festival style for the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival in California. The brand recently worked with blog-gers during the event. Plus, the label is gaining more celebrity fans: Taylor Swift, Jaime King and Brody Jenner have all worn Bed Stu styles.

“Our product definitely lends itself to the look and feel of Coach-ella,” said marketing director Tracy Jankowski. “Taylor Swift [Insta-gramed herself in our boots], and it increased traffic to the website and sparked online conversations.”

The brand is also ramping up its focus on independents, and so far, it’s sold in 700 smaller retailersglobally. –By Kristen Henning

“Camilla combines

femininity, color and wit, which

resonates.”Leannee Walsh, Avenue 32

Inside Bed Stu’snew Malibu store

BALTIMORE’S SON

PHOTOGRAPHED BY AXEL DUPEUX

Data-obsessed Under Armour’s drive for the athletic market’s No. 1 global spot starts in CEO Kevin Plank’s backyard.

By Peter Verry

U N D E R A R M O U R

Kevin Plank andMisty Copeland,shot exclusively for FN last monthin New York City

“When our industry talks about innovation, it’s a joke, it’s laughable. ... A shoe that doesn’t tie? That’s innovation?” Kevin Plank

13M I L E S T O N E

What have you learned over this 20-year journey?

KP: How much you don’t know, how many things

surprise you. The thing about sports and life is

everything could seem like it’s going perfectly

and then all of a sudden you get surprised. One of

my favorite quotes is from the great philosopher

Mike Tyson: “Everybody’s got a plan until they get

punched in the face.” We talk about the map, the

terrain, and we have the best plan in the world,

but we’ve demonstrated over the past 20 years our

ability to move and act and react with what the

market gives us.

What’s written on your whiteboard today?

KP: The most recent thing I put on my whiteboard

simply said, “I don’t have to be right, I just want

to win.” That’s important for business. There are

people that spend more time, energy and effort

trying to prove themselves right versus if it works,

take it — and move on to the next one.

Why is Under Armour obsessed with data?

KP: The most important asset anyone has is

health, but why is it that we know the least about

it? When I ask how many days were you sick last

year, why don’t you know? You could have $400

in a checking account and the bank would send

reams of data. But if I ask, “How’s your health?”

You’ll say, “I don’t know. I feel pretty good; I was at

the doctor 18 months ago.” You have nothing moni-

toring [health]; we run through life and expect to

remain healthy, but things happen and the ability

for us to use predictive analytics and data can help

us. Over 2 billion workouts and over 389 million

runs were logged into our database last year. We’re

finding the smartest people that could help us

inform our consumer to make better decisions, to

live healthier lives.

How will having this data be used to generate new

products and increase sales?

KP: Our consumer wants us to have more informa-

tion about them, and we need to give them some-

thing back. When they give us data and tell us this

about themselves, how are we using that to inform,

to make their lives easier and better? If you went

on seven hikes last month, wouldn’t you like for us

to know that? We should be solving the problem of

the shoe you’re wearing and saying, “We saw the

distance, the altitude, the wind and the weather

where you were hiking; we could make a

recommendation for a better shoe.” Under Armour

established itself as a shirts-and-shoes business

that built credibility and trust with the consumer.

We find the best assets that will help make an

athlete better, whether its partnerships with

Harmon Kardon to help make our headphones or

HTC with our Connected Fitness.

Would you say Under Armour is the smartest

athletic brand tech-wise?

KP: We’re positioned to be a brand unlike anything

that’s been defined. When our industry talks about

innovation, it’s a joke, it’s laughable. My competi-

tors talk about how innovative they are with a new

knit upper. A new knit upper is your definition of

innovation? A shoe that doesn’t tie? That’s innova-

tion? Great, another thing my kids aren’t going to

have to learn. Go back to 1985 and wonder what

expectations consumers would have today. Twenty

years ago, the innovation that lives inside a simple

phone today would have taken a Greyhound Bus

[size] supercomputer and it wouldn’t have taken

a picture or played music, yet today this fits in my

back pocket. That’s innovation.

How important is your international growth?

KP: It’s critical. It’s been a long slog for us; we’re

on year 10 in Europe, and it took us that long to

get to profitability. Latin America is very impor-

tant to us; Central America and Brazil are very

important. Japan has always been the stalwart

of our leading markets internationally, but China

is fast on the way to becoming larger than Japan

and be our largest market outside the U.S. Under

Armour in Asia — particularly in China — is

known as the professional brand. If sport is your

life — or when you practice, if you want to be like

the professionals — this is the brand you wear.

That is a foundation that’s going to allow us to

expand, and there are many other terrific lifestyle

moments and opportunities to continue to grow.

The hardest thing is finding and reallocating

people. We want to breed our own team; we can

hire executives from other places, but it’s so much

better if we can build them from within. With our

China business — from 2010, when we launched

there, to 2012 — we grew from $1 million to $3

million, and we didn’t have the right leader. I

took who was running our outdoor business, Kev-

in Eskridge, and sent him to China at the end of

2012. He took over a $3 million business; in 2013,

he did $7 million. In 2014, he did $30 million. In

2015, he came home and was replaced by Erick

Haskell; we did roughly $80 million in 2015, and

this year the plan is north of $160 million.

Talk about your new campus. What do you hope

to achieve from the new home?

KP: The purpose of building this campus is to

have an amazing place for my team and my

company to grow. We have 600 or 700 people

spread all over Baltimore in addition to the 1,700

or 1,800 at headquarters. Now, we’re able to move

everybody into one building. [And] we could also

be a center of energy to attract other great brands

and bring things to this side of the city, which

was old industrial land, and turn it into some-

thing vibrant that’s a true live, work and play

environment. The selection of this campus was

critical; it has water on one side and I-95 on the

other, where 225,000 cars drive by a day. We’re

going to have a 100,000-sq.-ft. gym, our Hungry

and Humble Café will be expanded, we’ll have

fields and indoor basketball courts, and it will be

anchored with a 100,000-plus-sq.-ft. store called

Under Armour World that will be the ultimate

destination for what people do when they want to

see, feel and experience the brand.

Ten years from now, what do you hope Under

Armour will look like?

KP: We’ll be the best player in this space; we’ll be

the best player in sports footwear. Competition in

our space [is] beatable, [and] I think innovation

has not been at the cornerstone of sports. We’re

going to push the envelope — and by us pushing

so hard, it’ll make our competitors better, too,

so I’m not predicting anyone’s going away — but

Under Armour will be around for the long haul,

and we’re going to keep running and fighting

until we’re the No. 1 brand in the world. And then

we’re just going to be where we’ll be comfortable,

which is leading.

nder Armour boss Kevin Plank, 43, could effortlessly rattle off the average weight (192 pounds), night’s sleep (six hours, 38 minutes) and run distance (4.2 miles) of men his age — and not just for personal reasons.

That’s because in the past three years the athletic giant’s founder and CEO has spent $710 million on bolstering its digital health and fitness community, Connected

Fitness, by acquiring the apps MapMyFitness, MyFitnessPal and Endomondo. The goal? To make more-informed decisions on behalf of its consumers.

Plank is confident data collection gives Under Armour an advantage in the robust athletic market. Industry experts agree.

“The more [the industry] knows about athletes today, the better positioned we are to leverage that knowledge,” said Matt Powell, sports industry analyst with The NPD Group. “[Plank’s] going to have much deeper and richer knowledge than we currently have about how athletes use their products and how athletes work out.”

But Plank, who founded the firm 20 years ago, knows data alone won’t be enough to defeat the competition. To strengthen the company, he’s investing in a new Baltimore campus — featuring a 100,000-plus-sq.-ft. retail space off I-95 — and focusing on its international growth.

The executive spoke with Footwear News about the motivational quotes on his infamous whiteboard, the relentless plan to improve the health of Under Armour’s consumers and why industry innovation is “laughable” so far.

U

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U N D E R A R M O U R

The Curry Recipe

How one man who isn’t named Kevin Plank is powering Under Armour’s basketball business.

By Neil Weilheimer

M I L E S T O N E

Curry wore his fi rst Under Armour signature shoe on the court on Jan. 9, 2015. 15

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Gilliam Shakespeare

said that all the world’s

a stage and men and

women are merely

players, but Mr. Shakespeare never

met Stephen Curry,” Oscar winner

Jamie Foxx heralded in the 2015 ad

launching the fi rst signature shoe for

the NBA player. “You’ve got to fi nd the

person with a new story to tell, the

person who is in the gym every damn

day taking shot after shot.”

The executives at Under Armour did more

than fi nd just any person.

In fact, they found a superstar whose

marketability and playmaking skills could help

the Baltimore-based company’s basketball busi-

ness rival the success of Nike’s Jordan Brand.

Case in point: Footwear revenues at Under

Armour rose 57 percent in 2015 to $678 million,

attributed largely to new running sneakers

and, of course, the buzzy popularity of Curry’s

basketball kicks. More recent, in the fi rst

quarter of 2016, the company’s footwear

revenues surged 64 percent to $264 million.

“We’ve been getting a lot of expansion

across our entire footwear business because

of what’s happening with Steph,” said Peter

Ruppe, SVP of footwear and acting GM for

Under Armour’s basketball product. “We’re

gaining ground in the running market, gaining

in outdoor, even within training. The No. 1

growth driver in the past quarter was the Steph

product, and because of that we’re seeing the

halo eff ect.”

After initially entering the basketball shoe

business in 2010 with a small collection called

Micro G — Brandon Jennings, then a rising

young talent with the Milwaukee Bucks, served

as the face of the initiative — Under Armour

launched the Curry One in New York City

during the NBA All-Star weekend in February

2015. Soon after, the company followed with

various franchise installments, such as the

Curry One low, a string of limited-edition MVP

and holiday colorways, and the Curry Two.

Most recently, Under Armour unveiled the

Curry 2.5, a shoe the Golden State Warriors

sharpshooter began wearing on the court just

before the playoff s began. That style, inspired

by Curry’s precise movements and focus under

pressure, is expected to hit retail May 28 for

$135. It also takes artistic cues from the Bay

Bridge that connects San Francisco and Oak-

land, the Warriors’ home city. What’s more, the

Curry Three will debut in time for the 2016-17

NBA season.

To fuel consumer excitement, the athletic

fi rm has smartly capitalized on Curry’s charm,

showmanship and likability. Since launching

his signature line, Under Armour took

Curry on a fi ve-day, fi ve-city marketing tour

throughout Asia, unleashed TV ads and in

recent weeks announced it would release a

three-second spot for every 3-pointer he makes

in this year’s playoff s.

Curry, who scored more

3-pointers in a season (402) than

any other NBA player while leading the

Warriors to a history-making 73-9 record in

the 2015-16 season, said he was immediately

drawn to Under Armour after fi rst meeting

with founder Kevin Plank and other executives

in 2013.

“They came to the pitch meeting and talked

about what they saw in me as a player and my

potential going forward,” said Curry, formerly

a Nike guy. “There were also lots of similari-

ties between Under Armour and me and our

backgrounds of being underdogs, inspiring to

be great and defying the odds. [I saw] the room

for growth [at this company], and I wanted

to be a part of that and have a huge impact in

building a basketball brand and a business that

will be successful.”

So far, he has. According to one analyst, the

partnership, which helped Under Armour nab

Footwear News’ Brand of the Year in

2015, could be worth as much as $14 billion.

Ruppe, who joined the company in

January 2015 after 26 years at Nike, said

product designers are already working on the

future generations of Curry sneakers. It’s a

process, he said, that will include adding more

innovation and sophistication to the young

basketball business.

“So my apologies to Mr. Shakespeare,” Foxx

said in the 2015 Peter Berg-directed launch ad,

“because onto the stage of mere players enters

the baby-faced assassin, and he’s about to write

his own story.”

‘W

“There were also lots of similarities between Under Armour and me and our backgrounds of being underdogs.” Stephen Curry

T

PHOTOGRAPHED BY AXEL DUPEUX18 M I L E S T O N E

Misty Copeland is changing the athletic marketing game and elevating Under Armour’s women’s division to new heights. By Margaret Sutherlin

Principal Player

wo years ago, sitting alongside Olympic skier

Lindsey Vonn and future World Cup champion

Kelley O’Hara, a 5-foot-2-inch ballerina with

calves that look like they were carved out of

granite debuted her first commercial for Under

Armour’s relaunched women’s line.

Misty Copeland’s viral campaign for “I Will What I Want”

showcased an athlete, but this time the athlete was pirouet-

ting and landing impossible leaps en pointe. It was a major

marketing coup for Under Armour, which was known for its

muscular roster of masculine football and baseball stars.

Under Armour’s list of sponsored athletes is a who’s

who of sports — Vonn, Tom Brady, Stephen Curry — but it a

ballerina who holds the MVP title in the women’s category.

“Under Armour has put all of us female ambassadors

on the same platform and playing field as their male

athletes,” Copeland told FN. “They’re showing us in such

a powerful and unique way; women are not often seen in that

sort of light. That really separates Under Armour from other

brands.”

Fast forward to 2016: Copeland stars in Under

Armour’s new “Rule Yourself” campaign,

produced by Droga 5. Later this month, she’ll

make history with the American Ballet Theatre

when she takes the stage at the Metropolitan Opera

House in New York as the first black female

principal dancer for the company.

Copeland is an ideal spokeswoman for the

brand. She is as poised, feminine and articulate

as she is determined, focused and strong. Her

story of perseverance through poverty, racism

and overcoming setbacks from injury have been

key to connecting her to the Under Armour

customer, who values the underdog.

“The fact that Misty is not a conventional

athlete in and of itself adds value to the

brand,” said Denise Lee Yohn, a marketing

U N D E R A R M O U R

THE HEAT IS ON If it wasn’t enough to have the chal-lenge of taking the stage this spring season as a principal dancer, Misty

Copeland is prepping to step back into one of her signature roles: Igor Stravinsky’s “Fire-

bird,” choreographed by Alexei Ratmansky. It was the role of a lifetime four years ago

when Copeland, a soloist for the American Ballet Theatre, was the first black woman to

dance the famous part for a major company. “It’s such an important role for me because

it changed the path of my career,” said Copeland. “I feel this power in approaching

it again. It’s exciting to revisit choreography that four years ago was so difficult that there

was no way I should have accomplished it, and then this year I feel like this isn’t so

bad now that I have four full-length ballets under my belt. It’s exciting

to feel the growth and see it.”

U N D E R A R M O U R

In November, Copeland will visit Cuba to lead workshops for young dancers.20 M I L E S T O N E

expert with her own namesake company. “The

Under Armour brand has always been the

alternative to the mainstream, so featuring a

dancer instead of a more traditional athlete

reinforces the position of a different, conven-

tion-breaking brand.”

Copeland knows she’s not the typical face

for an athletic brand, and she’s not wasting

the platform she’s been given to talk about it.

“I think that the dance world is benefiting

from having a platform that is so visible and

really just showing what we’ve always known:

that we’re these strong and credible artists,”

said Copeland. “It’s empowering young girls

[and teaching] them that it’s OK to be a

woman and girl and be a strong athlete and

show your muscles and not hide behind that.”

The Under Armour campaign, her

children’s book and memoir, a documentary

and her appearance on Broadway last fall

have made her a household name.

Her newfound notoriety has resulted in

some major changes not just in the dance

community. Copeland offers up the example

of the “Rule Yourself” spot. There, she’s been

given an opportunity to show how much prac-

tice it actually takes to master a move. With

this insider view, people are suddenly starting

to appreciate dance’s athleticism, she said.

“You come to a performance and you get to

see the finished product,” said Copeland, “but

we put in just as many hours and the type

of physical training as a basketball player, a

football player or a tennis player would do to

prepare.”

While the brand isn’t ready to unveil

Copeland’s next project, it is counting on her

to continue to help bolster its women’s cat-

egory. In the past few quarters, the women’s

division has been a challenge across the in-

dustry, but Under Armour will most certainly

be turning to its star player to boost buzz.

“How she wears our gear is so special

and she’s so respected in the fashion world,

so there really is opportunity to be inspired

by her,” said Adrienne Lofton, SVP of global

brand marketing.

For now, Copeland’s eyes are focused on

the stage as she prepares to take a bow as

a principal dancer with the American Ballet

Theatre.

“It’s almost like this reassurance inside

me,” said Copeland. “I think that it’s become

easier as time goes on to accept and own

a reality that I’m not in a dream. This season

will really tell me what it’s like to be a

principal dancer.”

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21M I L E S T O N EMARKETING

U N D E R A R M O U R

Campaign Season

Under Armour is breaking records with its impressive roster of major athletes and marketing stars. Adrienne Lofton, SVP of global brand marketing, takes FN through the company’s greatest successes and winning ads.

By Margaret Sutherlin

Protect This House — 2003“This came from the insight of football players — how they think, breathe and live [for the game]. What’s incredible about the campaign is that it became a mantra. If you walk into any stadium today, you will hear the crowd saying, ‘We must protect this house.’ When we see a campaign move into [popular] culture, then you know you’ve got a win and em-bodied an insight that mattered.”

Future Girl — 2013“This was a Kevin brainchild. It was interesting because it really wasn’t even meant to be consumer facing. We made that spot to speak to a digital and connected athlete, which is now our Connected Fitness division. We knew it was where the industry was headed, and we wanted to lead the conversation. It was meant to expand the minds of our internal constituents and bring forward-thinking product.”

Rule Yourself — 2015“Overnight celebrity is possible today, and people are forgetting the work ethic required to be the best athlete in the world. They see Stephen Curry as MVP and world champion, and they think he showed up ready. We thought it was an interesting time to remind athletes that it’s what you do when no one watches and that 24/7 work ethic that is going to get you the success you desire in your career.”

I Will What I Want — 2014“As we evolved from being a men’s football brand to being a women’s brand, we can’t show up the way the consumer expects us to. The insight into what makes Misty, Misty — feeling like an underdog and being told ‘no, no, no,’ the DNA of Misty couldn’t be more Under Armour. No one expected it from us, and frankly, it has been [our] most popular campaign. You have to be unafraid to change the conversation.”

Rule Yourself — 2016 “We decided training needed to be revolutionized. We wanted to be cinematic for the first approach, but when we launched Rule Yourself, chapter two, we are telling athletes the how and why. Going deep from a content perspective is the win. We love the evolution from chapter one to two, to keep telling the story and go deeper so the athlete feels like they are part of the brand, and it’s not just us talking at them.”

Kevin Haley doesn’t pay attention to the competition. As president of product and innovation for Under Armour, he encourages his team to ignore the noise and focus on their own game. “It’s that old adage that if you follow someone’s footprints in the snow, you’re never going to pass them,” Haley said. “We have to do it diff erently — we have to do it better.” By Erin E. Clack

Creative Calling

1What’s a typical day like in the Under Armour Innovation Lab?There is always

something diff erent

going on. Some-

times we’ve got

elite athletes or the

military in there,

and sometimes

we’ve got Under

Armour people

testing product in

the environmental

chamber. In the

outer ring, where

we let people come

in, we might have

inventors bringing

their ideas to us or a

team from a Fortune

500 polymer

company that has

stumbled on a new

material they think

could be radical for

our industry.

2What new foot-wear concepts are you working on?One of the most

exciting things

we’re focusing on

is 3-D printing. We

just launched the

Architech shoe,

[which features]

the world’s fi rst

commercially avail-

able 3-D printed

elastomer midsole.

Being able to print

a lattice structure

provides the kinds

of benefi ts you just

can’t achieve with a

traditional molding

process. Also, what’s

so promising about

the digital realm is

how much faster

everything moves

because you can

design and perfect

[your concepts]

digitally. Whereas

other companies

have seen their

innovation projects

take years, we put

out our 3-D printed

heel cup in just a

month.

3You launched your fi rst smart shoe in February. How important will the wearable tech trend be to your innovation strategy going forward?It will be a huge

piece of it. The

beauty of our

[Gemini 2 Record

Equipped] shoe is

how uncomplicated

it is. People love

that you can go

for a run and leave

your phone, your

watch, everything at

home. You can have

this untethered

experience and

really enjoy the run.

And when you get

back home, all of

your [workout] data

fl ows seamlessly to

your smartphone

or tablet. With this

kind of technology,

we have much more

freedom to explore

and improve the

user experience.

4How does your team plan to mine the Con-nected Fitness community data?Bottom line, we’ll

be able to use it to

make better prod-

ucts. We’re collect-

ing this immense

amount of data and

insights from more

than 160 million

people who are our

core consumers

and who have self-

selected to be in this

group because they

care about their

health and fi tness.

For our designers,

it’s an amazingly

valuable tool that

provides a deep,

rich understanding

of consumers and

their behavior, down

to the minutest

details. We can

start to tap into the

consumer’s unmet

needs and identify

problems to solve

[through product

design]. The com-

munity’s also an

opportunity to reach

new consumers.

5How critical are R&D competi-tions such as Future Show in driving product innovation? The real value of

Future Show and

having an open

platform is scale

and leverage. We

have about 14,000

employees here

who are some of the

best in the world at

what they do, but

it’s just statistically

more likely that a

great new idea

or technology or

material will come

from one of the

billions of people

out there working

on things — whether

it’s someone tinker-

ing in their garage

or a major chemical

company. We de-

velop a lot internally,

but we’re not going

to pretend we have

a monopoly on great

ideas. So we fl ing

open the doors and

encourage people to

come in and share

with us.

Haley talks about new shoe projects, going digital and the power of idea sharing.

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22 M I L E S T O N E 5 QUESTIONS

U N D E R A R M O U R

B E S T W I S H E S ,

O F I N D U S T R Y L E A D I N G I N N O V A T I O N & O U T S T A N D I N G P A R T N E R S H I P .

L O O K I N G F O R W A R D T O H O W Y O U W I L L R E V O L U T I O N I Z E

T H E N E X T 2 0 Y E A R S .

C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S O N

THE FUTURE LOOKS STRONGWe salute Under Armour for twenty years of evolution, innovation and collaboration.

Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings.

U N D E R A R M O U R

“Under Armour is a once-in-a-generation company. [The brand’s] biggest accomplishment in the past year has been its emergence onto the global basketball scene. Basketball is the most difficult category to break into given Nike’s dominant market share, and Under Armour has managed to do just that with Stephen Curry. As every part of their business continues to improve and grow, it feels like they are just scratching the surface of opportunity.”

Camilo Lyon, Canaccord Genuity Inc.

“Under Armour has been authentic and disciplined. Their brand messaging and distribution have been consistent, and that’s [a major part of] the reason why they have been so successful. They entered into a very competitive industry and changed the game. Not only were they disruptive — they had staying power. International, footwear, white-space opportunity and comp [gains] will drive the brand’s growth over the next few years.”

Kate McShane, Citi Research

“Under Armour has an ability to continue to move forward. They know who they are, and they always want to improve — that’s what has built their success and will continue to do so. When they have done things that weren’t up to standard, they have gone back and started again. They have been very aware of what they have to do to get where they need to be.”

Sam Poser, Sterne Agee CRT

Keeping ScoreAn inside look at Under Armour’s financial achievements in 2015 and its major targets for the next three years.

By Sheena Butler-Young

THE ANALYSISMarket watchers offer their take on the athletic brand’s success and the long-term strength of the business.

SALES

$7.5 billion

THE BIG NUMBERS IN 2015 GROWTH GOALS BY 2018

SALES $3.96 billion

OPERATING INCOME

$409 million

$1.05 EARNINGS PER SHARE

FOOTWEAR REVENUES

$678 million

OPERATING INCOME

$800 millionFOOTWEAR REVENUES

$1.7 billion

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25M I L E S T O N ETHE STANDOUTS

Curry One“The product itself is relatively simple in terms of its aesthetic. The anafoam [tech-nology] and using different construction techniques gave it a really comfortable feel, but also a lot of support. None of that compares to what number 30 for [the Golden State Warriors] was doing. He was the one who gave it the biggest lift.”

Curry Two“We have been in the [Stephen] Curry brand for slightly more than a year. To consider back when we were starting the Curry Two, we didn’t know that Steph would have a breakout [season]. We were thinking: How do we change the form and help the most agile guard out there? It’s a light, fast

and responsive shoe.”

Golf Footwear“We are working with the world’s best golfer [Jordan Spieth]. We are able to deliver for him signature-level product that he can perform in at a very high level. We nailed a great golf shoe right from the beginning; we are really proud of that. Now we are expanding.”

Top 10 Shoe Hits

Peter Ruppe, SVPof footwear at Under Armour, reveals the secrets behind its recent shoe success. By Nikara Johns

Architech“A lot of our innovation has to do with trying to consider newer or better ways to deliver product to the marketplace. The starting point of the Architech was to aim toward actually being able to 3-D print midsole parts. We understand that 3-D printing is going to be in the industry — we just don’t know how quickly, so we wanted to push the needle.”

Speedform Slingshot“It’s an entirely knitted upper. We pull together a unique and really strong fabric for the toe area, but then we use different fibers in the knitting process to create different zones of compression. The forefoot — where you want a lot of mobility — is highly flexible, and the medial side is most compressed.”

Speedform Apollo“Apollo was the very first innovation that we had in Speedform technology. We went to an apparel manufacturer that specialized in bras, looked at how they used fabrics and said, ‘Is that possible to do in footwear?’ We partnered with them, and they developed molded uppers. It’s a lighter weight, faster form of product.”

Fat Tire“The inspiration was for outdoor, and we were observing these overbuilt bike tires that have come onto the scene that you can ride on snow and sand. The designer took the inspiration literally, and we went to Michelin. The idea is for active trail running — something that will really give you the traction that you need.”

Highlight Cleat“When we launched the Highlight, the inspiration came from old-school styles of basketball and boxing shoes. The Highlight is a remarkable football concept because it allows a player to feel protected, but move fully. For the past several football seasons, it’s been the No. 1-selling football item.”

ClutchFit Force FGThe shoe includes charged cushioning that delivers incredible feel and energy return, with strategically placed microfin elements. “ClutchFit refers to using a stretch fabric base. It creates a skinlike feel.”

Speedform Gemini 2 Record-Equipped“It’s got an xyz accelerometer built into it with battery antenna for Blue-tooth. We want it to be as frictionless as possible. All you have to do is lace up the product and start running, and it’s tracking — no devices necessary. It also syncs into UA MapMyRun for GPS tracking and is there to enhance a runner’s experience.”

Leading in Challenging TimesS

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Each Article No. sneaker comes with its own ID number. 27

T H E L I S T

Hot NumberFor fall ’16, Los Angeles-based brand Article No. stands out in the saturated sneaker market with a refined hit. Its low-top 0120 style, in mesh and suede, taps the neutral trend via a tasteful color combo. The great thing about neutrals? They can be laced up anywhere, anytime.

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A M E R I CA

Ryan Babenzien

Former NFL pro Adrian Wilson is an investor in Greats Brand.

n the direct-to- consumer world, the Greats Brand has found better fortune than many

of its start-up peers.The Brooklyn, N.Y.-based com-

pany has managed to find its niche in the highly competitive sneaker world by producing high-quality, low-cost footwear that appeals to a wide social audience.

Inspired by companies with similar DTC models, such as Everlane and Warby Parker, the sneaker label has built its business by crafting a marketing strategy that resonates with a millennial audience.

CEO Ryan Babenzien, who founded Greats in 2013, said the brand relies on a combination of press and digital marketing — but most of all social media.

“Our Instagram following alone has 80,000 followers,” he said. “Since our 100 percent millennial audience spends most of their time on mobile, this has been a fantastic channel for discovery and aware-ness. And there’s not really any cost involved.”

A quick scroll through the com-pany’s Instagram account shows a mix of Italian pride (as all the shoes are manufactured in Italy), product news and updates, along with a blend of lifestyle commen-tary. Greats uses this social strategy to craft a story that can ultimately

lead to a purchase. That also helps it avoid the cost of buying digital ad space.

Media coverage is another major component of Greats’ marketing strategy. The company updates the color, material or style of a few select sneakers every other week, which allows the brand to remain in the press.

“That type of schedule keeps us top of mind for the press across the

board, from the business journals to GQ,” said Babenzien, adding that he plans to continue that business model going forward.

However, Greats’ rapid growth has put pressure on its operation. “We’ve created this mindshare in the millennial audience that’s far bigger than our brand,” said Babenzien. “Our biggest challenge to date has been keeping up with that demand and being able to make stuff fast enough. That’s what is pulling us forward. People are

I

“We’ve created this mindshare in the millennial audience that’s far bigger

than our brand. Our biggest challenge to date has

been keeping up.”Ryan Babenzien

How the direct-to-consumer sneaker brand has become an industry success story in just three years. By Calvy Click

Greats Mysteries

2

28 T H E L I S T ATHLETIC

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29T H E L I S TATHLETIC

Still, even after having success on a release last year with SeattleSeahawks running back Marshawn Lynch — which sold out in under an hour — Greats is careful to team up only with brands thatare complementary to its identity and are strong in their categories.

One of its most anticipated unions is with menswear label Death to Tennis, championed by style infl uencers such as Nick Wooster and Opening Ceremony. That collab is due out this month.

Babenzien explained that col-laborating is more of an art than a science and when done correctly can be a powerful way to elevate the brand.

aware of [the brand], people are buying it, and we’re trying to keep up with that.”

The CEO noted that thesolution to its problem is adequate resources. The company is plan-ning to initiate a Series B round of venture capital fundraising this summer, with a target goal of $10 million to $15 million.

Another challenge includes building a world-class team thatrefl ects the brand’s growth. At the moment, Greats employs 10 people, which Babenzien called incredibly lean, seeing as business grew more than 300 percent last year, though he declined to give specifi c fi gures. (He claimed the growth could have reached 500 percent had the brand had more inventory.)

Babenzien emphasized that much of the brand’s success is thanks to the team’s awareness about the marketplace. And that starts with the CEO, whose brother, Brendon Babenzien, is a well-known fi gure in the streetwearindustry as the former creative di-rector of Supreme. Greats will team up in June with Brendon’s latest venture, Noah, for a collaboration.

This goes along with Greats’ central design thesis. “We believe in staying narrow and neat,” said Babenzien. “We believe we have the right silhouettes to stay evergreen with color and material, and not necessarily change the styling of the silhouette itself. Last year was about identifying the best-selling styles, so now we’re focusing more on the styling.”

Tastemakers in the industryapprove of the brand’s approach.

Stylist Kesha McLeod, who works with celebrity and athlete clients including Serena Williams, James Harden and Chris Bosh, told Footwear News, “I love that Greats not only provides options for clients with larger shoe sizes, but has a nice aesthetic that makes their brand suitable for casual and business settings.”

As for the label’s future growth, Greats is preparing a move into brick-and-mortar retail. Just as Warby Parker fi rst found a happy home in New York’s Soho shoppingdistrict, Babenzien said his brand is looking at real estate in the Big Apple and is aiming to open alocation later this year.

“I love that Greats ... has a nice aesthetic

that makes their brand suitable

for casual and business

settings.”Stylist Kesha McLeod

5 Top-SellingGreats Styles

ROSEN CADET NAVYThe runner is made with high-

density nylon and suede.

ROYALE CUOIOHandmade in Italy, it features suede and full-grain leather.

PRONTO NATURAL SELECTION This style recently was updated with a Vibram tread sole.

WOOSTER NERO BLACKThe leather slip-on was inspired by tastemaker Nick Wooster.

BAB NIMBUSA cross between a trainer and a chukka, the shoe is intended for warm weather.

Street Chic Four casual looks from the brand’s spring ’16 marketing campaign.

Designers of men’s sneakers look to the sky for playful cosmic detailing, such as starry prints and electrifying accents.

Galaxy Quest

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FALL TREND

T H E L I S T30 On model: Jeremy Scott’s fall ’16 men’s looks featured planetary motifs.ATHLETIC

Leather-and-suede runner with lightning bolt from Fendi

Velour high-top with Big Bang embellishment by Christian Louboutin

Saint Laurent’s stitched star-print high-top sneaker

Golden Goose’s Ball Star low-top with suede star patch

Gucci’s court style with metallic lightning, star and heart patches

3High-top with metallic lightning bolt by Laurence Dacade

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MARCUSTROYThe Montreal-based lifestyle blogger and fashion tastemaker on his clean and classic shoe collection.

By Jennie Bell

TOTAL PAIRS: “Maybe 450 or 500.”

PREFERRED AESTHETIC: “I like to describe it as classic. I’m not caught up in the hype about the latest Foamposites or LeBrons. My look is classic, nondescript and universal so that I can wear it with everything.”

CURRENT GO-TO SHOES: “This pastweek, I’ve only been wearing the Wings &

Horns x New Balance collab. They’re all black and easy to wear. I recently for the fi rst time bought three pairs of Common Projects. They haven’t shown up yet, but I’m really looking forward to wearing them.”

MOST EXPENSIVE: “In 2002, I was in London, and we were lost and looking for the A Bathing Ape store. There was no sign and we passed it a few times, and then when we found it, they were closed. The next day I went back and was so excited that I paid 125 pounds for their version of the Air Force 1. I didn’t realize until I got home that I’d paid like $300. That was unheard of then.”

LEAST EXPENSIVE: “Probably some Vans or Converse that were maybe $50.”

FAVORITE NON-SNEAKER STYLES: “This winter in Montreal, it was Timberland and Red Wing boots.”

SHOES ON MY WISH LIST: “The Hender Schemes that look like a Jordan Air Force in tan.”

SHOES I’M OVER: “We’ve seen so many people wear the Yeezys not in the level of style they deserve that it’s turned me off .”

IDEAL COLLECTION: “I’m trying to get to a point where I have the perfect footwear collection, with just things that are classic, clean and timeless. So one or two boots, some Common Projects sneakers, Adidas running shoes — things like that. I think I can get my collection down to 15 to 20 pairs of the best shoes from the best brands.”

DONATING PLANS: “I’m not into the resell-ing. I know there’s value, but I give a lot of shoes away. I met with Soles4Souls recently, and we’re going to connect to fi gure out how to help. I want to get to the kid who wants to play basketball but can’t because he doesn’t have the sneakers.”

BROTHERLY BONDS: “My brother and I are twins, and growing up, my mom felt the need for us to have diff erent things, so my brother and I never really learned to share. When we came of age to buy our own things, we’d buy two of them for each of us.”

SHOPPING HABITS: “I shop when I travel mostly. I bought a pair of

shoes in Berlin recently and in Tokyo. When

I’m in Montreal or New York,

I don’t do that

much shopping. I have great friends at great brands who send me things.”

DRAWBACKS OF THE JOB: “After you get sent your fi rst few pairs of shoes, the things you loved and coveted [about the brands are gone]. To me, you become numb. I appreciate people sending me things, but I used to enjoy times where I would have to hunt.”

ADVICE FOR SNEAKER LOVERS: “Wear things because you love them and not because you need to wear them because of the hype.”

Wings & Hornsx New Balance

sneaker

CLOSET CASE

HenderScheme

4

Angus Young often performs in black Reebok Freestyle Hi sneakers. 32 ATHLETICT H E L I S T

Fest’s Bests

Sporty style fused with boho-chic

fashion on the stages and in the crowds at California’s Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival last month. Both performers and celebrity fans donned classic sneakers in all white or all black — or some combination of the two.

THEY ARE

WEARING

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Mario Cuomo of The Orwells

Shannon Leto and Jared Leto

AC/DC’s Angus Young

Dao-yi Chow andBrendan Fallis

Erik Hamamoto and Protohype

StellaMaxwell

Jenny Lewis

JeremyScott

Aluna Francis

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wo years after part-ing ways with its U.S. distributor, U.K.-based label Gola has itssights set on becoming

the go-to brand for retro sneaker enthusiasts in the States.

Tony Evans, president of par-ent company Jacobson Group, said Gola was underperforming in the U.S. compared to its robust Western European business, so the firm split from Megablue LLC at the end of 2013 and set up its own subsidiary to oversee operations stateside.

“The only way to build the busi-ness was to invest in it. You’re never going to [grow] at the level we were looking for through a distribution partner,” Evans explained.

Buoyed by improvements in its

U.S. business, Gola’s global sales grew 15 percent in 2015. And for 2016, thanks to stellar sell-throughs for the spring ’16 line and promisingleads on fall, the brand is predicting a 62 percent jump in sales, according to Evans.

He believes the current popularity of heritage product can help boost the profile of Gola, a label that’s more than a century old.

“You have huge brands like Nike, but Nike started in 1971 — they only have 45 years of heritage,” Evans said. “Gola is 111 years old. In its early days, there wasn’t product developed that’s relevant now, [but] through the 1960s, ’70s and ’80s, there’s a huge amount that is.”

For fall ’16, Gola has three low-cutmen’s styles it expects to hit big:

the Wasp, Bullet and Harrier. For women, it will tout the low-profile Coaster silhouette.

Evans noted that the label’svintage look is ideal for boutique retailers like its current partners Sportie LA, NOS Boutique and Shoegasm. Looking ahead, Gola will continue to target the independent retail channel, but the brand hasn’t ruled out major chains such as Jour-neys, which Evans identified as a desirable partner.

And Gola also recognizes that its brand awareness needs work. To build its name, the label is continu-ing its #WhichGolaAreYou social media campaign, which launched last year and has so far engaged with more than 200 fashion and sneakerinfluencers.

With its fashionable heritage silhouettes, Gola aims to build up its name in the States. By Peter Verry

Retro Revival

TGola’s metallicCoaster high-topsfor women

6

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Footwear News 2016 Editorial Calendar

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5/9 4/27 Made In Spain

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JULY

7/11 6/29 Men’s, Men’s Runway, Paris Couture

7/18 7/6 Outdoor Retailer Show, Olympics, Materials & Components

7/25 7/13 Keds Milestone, FFANY Pre-Show

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Deadline: 2pm (ET) Wednesday prior to date of publication

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FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 72, NO. 15. May 2, 2016. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in July, second week in December, third week in January and April, fourth week in May, September and December, fifth week in February, August and October) by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail customer service at footwearnews@cdsfulfillment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscription price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliver-able, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a sub-scription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail licensing@pmc.com. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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PickThe B’s Knees

Following the release of Beyoncé’s buzzed-about visual album, “Lemonade,” the singer kicked off The Formation World Tour last Wednesday in Miami. One of her best onstage ensembles came from Roberto Cavalli by Peter Dundas when she rocked the crowd wearing over-the-knee, tiger-printed cuissard boots in velvet paired with a crystal-embroidered bodysuit.

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The footwear industry’s only comprehensive financial overview of independent shoe stores in the United States, providing in-depth analysis and benchmarks.

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Next Generation Leadership Program

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