wizz august 2014

8/9/2019 Wizz August 2014

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Will this Romanian city be

Europes next capital of culture?


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Toyota Auris Touring Sports Hybrid zuycie paliwa i emisja CO2(UE 80/1268 z pn. zm.) 3,7 l/100 km i 87g/km (cykl mieszany).

Informacje o dziaaniach dotyczcych odzysku i recyklingu samochodw wycofanych z eksploatacji: www.toyota.pl.

M DA NAHYBRYDYSamochody hybrydowe to symbol dobrej inwestycji.

Sluksusowe i wygodne, a przy tym przynosz

oszczdnoci liczone w tysicach zotych.

Dlatego stajsicoraz bardziej modne.

W caej Europie sprzeda hybryd wzrosa w cigu roku o 50%,w Polsce trzykrotnie. Na Starym Kontynencie co drugakupowana Toyota Auris jest wanie hybryd. Na wiecie hybrydymaj miliony wiernych uytkownikw ostatni milion przybyzaledwie w cigu 9 miesicy. Hybrydy Toyoty zdobyy sercaswoich wacicieli niezawodnoci, wygod prowadzenia, jakiejnie zapewni aden inny napd, oraz bogatym wyposaeniemw standardzie.


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Trwaoakumulatorw

Konstrukcja akumulatorw hybrydowych jestinna ni tych znanych z laptopw czy telefonw.W Toyocie wykorzystano bardzo wytrzymae

akumulatory metalowo-wodorkowe. Do tego systemdba o nie, powoli je adujc i rozadowujc (nigdydo skrajnych sytuacji maksymalnego naadowaniai rozadowania). S masowo produkowaneod 1997 r., dziaaj bezawaryjnie w ponad 6 mlnhybryd, a Toyota daje na nie do 10 lat gwarancji.

Na caym wiecie jedzi ju ponad 6 mln hybrydi s one coraz chtniej kupowane. Co drugaToyota Auris sprzedawana jest w Europie w wersjihybrydowej. Niezawodno, niskie zuycie paliwai cena bliska dieslom spowodoway lawinowy wzrostsprzeday hybryd.

Powszechno

PrzyjemnoPoruszanie si samochodem hybrydowym jestciche, pynne, elastyczne i oszczdne. Moe bytebardzo dynamiczne, wystarczy wczy tryb Power.Jazda relaksuje kierowc, konstrukcja nie przenosiwibracji znanych z klasycznych silnikw Diesla,no i nic nie klekocze. Cay napd jest sterowanykomputerem, nie wymaga dodatkowej uwagi. Autoprowadzi sijak kady konwencjonalny samochd.

Hybryd moemy dzi kupi praktycznie w ceniepodobnie wyposaonego diesla. Wersje benzynowedzieli od hybryd zaledwie kilka tysicy zotych.Ale nisze koszty uywania aut hybrydowych zwrct nadwyk ju po okoo 2 latach uytkowania.A przecie hybrydy syn z udokumentowanejniezawodnoci i trzymania wysokich cen na rynkuaut uywanych. Wniosek nasuwa si sam zakupauta hybrydowego staje sidobrinwestycj.

Cena


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W I Z Z M A G A Z I N E

SPANISH GIN

Is Barcelona the best cityin the world in which to order

a gin and tonic?We think it might be.

COVERILLUSTRATIONB

YVESASAMMALISTO/

PHOTOB

YCARLOSHERNANDEZ


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/ W I Z Z M A G A Z I N E

Android

EditorClaire Martin

Art DirectorCallum Lewis

Picture EditorJulia Holmes

Sub-editorClive Morris

ProductionHelen Hind

PublisherBrano Haar

Advertising Sales ExecutivesJoanna Kossowska

Irina BordeaAnna Tereszkiewicz

Bobby BunevOleksiy Korniychuk

Marta Lulewicz

Editorial DirectorAndrew Humphreys

Group Publishing DirectorMark Duke

Executive Creative DirectorMichael Keating

Chief Operating OfficerHugh Godsal

Chief ExecutiveJeffrey ORourke

WIZZis published on behalfof Wizz Air by Ink. All

correspondence and advertisingenquiries should be addressed to:

WIZZ, Ink, ShoreditchHigh Street, London E JETel: + () Fax: + ()

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All material is strictly copyright andall rights are reserved. No part of

this publication may be reproducedin whole or in part without written

permission of the copyrightholder. All prices and data are

correct at the time of publication.Opinions expressed in WIZZ arenot necessarily those of Wizz Air

or WIZZ. Wizz Air does not acceptresponsibility for advertising content.

Any pictures or transparenciessupplied are at the owners risk.

iOS

THE BUZZ / POZNAN COMIC FESTIVAL / ALINA COJOCARU / EASTERN EUROPEAN SUSHI / SUMMER COCKTAILS / KUTAISISRIVER / PRAGUES PIANOS / HOTELS / CYCLING ESSENTIALS

Download theWizz Air App!

CRAIOVAWe assess the Romanian citys credentialsto be a European Capital of Culture.

GDANSK

Meet the players behind the soon-to-openGdansk Shakespeare Theatre.

MALTAThe historic city of Valletta is undergoinga thoroughly modern revamp.

BULGARIAN BLACK SEA COASTForget the Med! Fly to Varna or Bourgas foran unforgettable summer of fun.

Scan one of the QR codes on theright and youll be taken directly to

the free Wizz Air app download page.Using the Android and iOS Wizz Air

apps, you can check flight schedules,

make bookings, add comfort andconvenience services, and check in for

your next trip. Mobile boarding is nowavailable at selected airports.

Features
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Long days and, for the luckyones among us, some summer

sun, put us in a relaxed mood andready to think about holidays later in

the year. So, while youre unwinding,

we suggest you start planning your nextbig winter escape. And where better to

look to than Wizz Air, the largest low-costairline in Central and Eastern Europe?

You can travel with Wizz Air to

winter destinations as varied asBarcelona, Milan, Geneva, Oslo or

Turin Cuneo. Lovers of snow sportsand seekers of winter sun alike come

back to Wizz Air year after year,taking advantage of our low prices

and warm and friendly service. What

are you waiting for? Check out Wizz Airswinter schedule its on sale now and

you can book your winter sun andski trips at wizzair.com.

For those of you who would like to

have Wizz Air help you plan yourwhole holiday, take a look at wizztours.

com, where we offer flight andhotel packages to exciting Wizz Airdestinations. Our special flight and hotel

deals will save you money, and WizzTours has something for all budgets.

While youre enjoying your

well-deserved holiday, remember thatwe at Wizz Air never take a break

whether its giving you more options to

enhance your travel experience or even

more choice of destinations. From thissummer we are operating out of our newbases in Craiova in Romania and Riga in

Latvia, using brand new Airbus As.

Wizz Air now operates A aircraft

and were proud to say that our fleet is

one of the youngest in the industry.Weve also just announced fur ther

expansion by adding two new destinationsto the Netherlands, Maastricht and

Groningen. Wizz Air now offers routes

from three airports in the country.And finally, running a marathon

may sound rather energetic for manyof us but imagine you are running

round the historic streets of Bupapest

and then the prospect might appeal!That is what entrants to the Wizz Air

Budapest Half Marathon will be doingon September. The course takes you

through the centre of Budapest, down

the famous Andrassy Boulevard and tothe Chain Bridge. What better way can

there be to see this wonderful city? Signup for our newsletter on wizzair.comto

get all news on this and future Wizz Airrunning and other events.

Wherever youre travelling to this

summer, I wish you a relaxed and

enjoyable trip!

JZSEF VRADIChief Executive Officer, Wizz Air

countries on the

Wizz Air map

Airbus A320

aircraft in our fleet

destinations available

on the Wizz Air network

routes across

Europe and beyond

DID YOU KNOW?

W E L C O M E


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Some find the love of a lifetime on holiday.

Others find their favourite yoghurt.At around 10,000 locations across Europe.

www.lidl.c


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VALENCIA

On the last Wednesday of

August, Buol, near Valencia,

transforms itself from sleepy village

into giant, tomato-filled mosh pit

for La Tomatina, one of Europes

most unusual festivals. In this giant

food fight, which was first staged

in , tomatoes are the weapon

of choice, and with tonnes of

them carried in by the truckload

from local farms, theres no shortage

of ammunition. There are no real

rules at La Tomatina other than

tomatoes being the only missiles

you can use and it only lasts an

hour. Hosing down the rivers of red

juice, as you can imagine, takes

considerably longer. latomatina.info

La Tomatina


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The Buzz


Scandinavian countries

lead the way when it comes to

encouraging people to get on

their bikes in Sweden, for

example, more than half of the

population already cycle daily.

So we were delighted to hear

about Gothenburgs new, free

cycle scheme. Local authorities

offered residents brand-new

bikes for six months the only

rule being that they had to

ditch their cars and cycle to

work at least three times a week.

The trial started in June, and its

success will be assessed at the

end of the year. We think its goin

to be a wheely big hit.

No Such Thingas a Free Bike?

The live jazz venues

in Warsaw suggest a strong

local fanbase. The highlight of

their year may well be Jazz na

Starwce, a collection of concert

held every Saturday in July and

August in Rynek, the Old Town

square. This year marks the

events th anniversary. Dontmiss the velvet-smooth tones of

Americas Roy Hargrove Quintet

on August, or the contemplativ

Nordic sounds of the award-

winning Tord Gustavsen Quartet

from Norway, on August.

jazznastarowce.pl

All that Jazz

A Hungarian entrepreneur is buying up oldvinyl and recycling it into trendy eyewear.Its all in the groove, he says

We think music sounds better on vinyl. Butafter the advent of MPs, many recordcollections have fallen by the wayside. Sowhat happens to all the discarded LPs?Well, some will have fallen into the hands ofHungarian entrepreneur Zack Tipton (picturedabove). Its a record collectors nightmare, buthes been busy cutting them up and turning

them into spectacle frames.When I was , I was getting bad grades

because I couldnt see the blackboard. Ineeded glasses. The ones at the opticianswere so expensive that I decided to makemy own. I remembered my dads old vinylcollection in the garage, and thats when I hadmy Eureka! moment. After taking a rough

Gift of Sound and Visionprototype of his vinyl glasses to a factory, hewas offered an apprenticeship to develop thedesign. This was years ago. Since then,Zacks glasses have become a reality.

Zack sources old records at CentralEuropes largest flea market, Ecseri Piac inBudapest. I select the vinyl according tohow visible the grooves are. Usually, minimaltechno has deep grooves and cool patterns,but pop music with short tracks is also good.The least groovy is classical music.

It takes a week to create a single spectacle

frame. First it must be cut out of vinyl, thenpolished for three days by a machine, andfinally hand polished. The resulting framesare big, thick and rugged, with the groovesintegral to the design. vinylize.com

BUDAPEST

GOTHENBURG

WARSAW


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The Bu

W I Z Z M A G A Z I N E /

From its unassuming interior, Bella Napoli inGlasgow looks like a typical Italian restaurant.

Crisp white linen adorns the tables, and bottlesof red wine line the walls. But in the kitchen,

restaurateur Domenico Crolla is making magic

Bella Napoli is famous for its designer pizzas.I first started creating pizza art in ,

Domenico says. Ive always been impressedwith the way Chinese chefs would create table

decorations in the shape of dragons or flowersfrom peppers and carrots, and I wanted to

show that pizza could be used in the same way.My first designer effort was Bruce Lee. I posted

it on Facebook and Twitter and to my surprisit went viral in only a few hours! Since then

he has created portraiture pizzas featuringthe faces of Kim Kardashian, Beyonc and

Lionel Messi (pictured left).

Domenico says he can create pizza art ouof anything, so long as he has a good image

work from. I charge [] per desigpizza. This sounds a lot but it takes a lot of

time and skill to prepare, and all proceedsgo to charity. Of course, you could just orde

a classic margherita, for . (.).bellanapoliglasgow.com

CAN PIZZA EVER BE ART?

Playing with Fire

GLASGOW

Earlier this summer, Mount

Etna, Europes most active volcano,

erupted in spectacular fashion billowing out plumes of dark

grey ash and columns of lava.Sitting above Catania, it explodes

a couple of times a year areminder of its immense power.

Intrepid travellers can organisea walking tour to Etnas crater,

dodging lava pits and seismic

tremors. Just be sure that you book

a trip with expert guides, such asEtna Experience, who know how todeal with the unpredictability of the

volcano. etnaexperience.com

Thefirstknowneruptionof

MountEtnawasmorethan

500,000yearsago

ThetemperatureofMountEtnaslavaisbetween700-1,000C.Hot!

Itsmostfamousblastwasin1669,whenitdestroyedhalfofthecityofCatania

CATANIA


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Cool for CatsThe inhabitants of Craiovamadeus welcome when we went there for

our cover story (see page ). Our

favourite was furrier than you might

expect the cat who sleeps in thepiano at the Oltenia Concert Hall.

Anyone for Gin?Oddly, Spain is the worlds biggesconsumer of that very British spirit,

gin (see page ). But we were

delighted when we discoveredPolands fondness for the drink

too although they tend to drink itneat, without tonic. Try our favourit

Lubuski. ginlubuski.pl

WHAT WERE

TALKING ABOUT

Shakespeares Polish HomGdansks Shakespeare Theatre

officially opens on September,but we were lucky enough to get

a behind-the-scenes look for ourfeature on the people who made

the project possible (see page The theatre wasnt quite ready

when we visited and we cantwait to see the finished result.

. THEOKTOBERFEST

This is definitely one for yourbucket list. Oktoberfest, inMunich, is over yearsold and is the daddy ofall beer-drinking events.It takes two months totransform the site into acity of tented pavilions andfood stalls. Over two weeks,six million visitors down sixmillion litres of beer. September October,

oktoberfest.de

. AN ALTERNATIVE

OKTOBERFEST

Dortmundactually hastwo Oktoberfests oneat Westfalenhalle, -September, and another atRevierpark Wischlingen, September October.Both have cheer, Bavarianbands and inevitabledodgy dancing, but withoutthe immense crowds andeye-watering prices.dortmund.de

. RHEINGAU FESTIVAL

Dont fear, the Germanspirit of drunken merrimentisnt limited to hoppybeverages. At the RheingauWine Festival in Frankfurt,- September,you cansample over winesfrom the Rheingau region,washed down with localcheeses and cold cuts. Itsa refined affair, in spiteof the , visitors.frankfurt-tourismus.de

Do you likebig crowds?

Wait do you evendrink beer?

The Buzz

Is your ideal beersnack a pork knuckle?

Can you stomachpaying . for a

litre of beer?

YES

NO

YES

YES

NO

YES NO

WHICH GERMAN DRINKING EVENT IS FOR YOU?

Is it acceptable to startdrinking at am?

NO


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The Bu


PHOTOSBYCORBIS

A Bosnian pensioner has spent two yearstransforming his old Volkswagen Beetleinto an oak-plated work of art

If we asked you to imagine a wooden car,youd probably think back to a beloved toy,

or one of the battered wooden-panelledestate cars driven by hippies and gardenersin the s. Its unlikely youd conjureup something as ornate as this woodenVolkswagen Beetle, made by -year-oldMomir Bojic.

Over two years, Mr Bojic coveredevery inch of his VW Beetle with more

The Oakswagen Beetlethan , scalloped pieces of oak,transforming the car from beaten-up bangerinto a piece of automotive art. He alsopatiently crafted wood into all of the carsinterior fittings including steering wheel,radio, hubcap, gear stick and grille in his

garden workshop. Rust will now be less of aproblem, though possibly not woodworm.

The car is totally roadworthy and, as youcan imagine, Momir gets plenty of admiringglances whenever he takes it out for a spin,often wearing his matching wooden driverscap. If youre in his hometown of Celinac,near Banja Luka, look out for him!

TUZLA

ThisVolkswagenBeetleiscoveredin,individualpiecesofoak


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The Buzz

Oh l l! Frances first popcorn concept

store has arrived in the capital

In recent years, popcorn has been, well,popping up everywhere making its wayout of the cinemas and into trendy barsand restaurants. Hailed as both gluten-freeand an antioxidant superfood, it has nowgone gourmet, with flavours such as bacon

Pop It Like Its Hotand maple syrup, and wasabi and ginger,offering a whole range of choices other than

sweet or salted. Now the socially mobilesnack has made it to the streets of Paristhanks to My Crazy Pop, a store in the tharrondissement that serves only popcorn.

My Crazy Pop is a collaboration betweenChristel Leflaive (above right)and FrenchMasterChef finalist Nathalie Nguyen

Chocolate Barbecue Ginger & Pepper Caramel Wasabi Coffee

(above left). Inspiration struck Christelwhile holidaying in Chicago in ,

where she found a shop solely dedicatedto the snack. She vowed to createFrances first popcorn concept boutique,and earlier this year, My Crazy Popopened at rue Trousseau. Expect unusual flavours year-round, plusselected seasonal offerings.

OUR FAVOURITES

PARIS

MyCrazyPopspopcornismadewithoutoil.Withaslittleascaloriesperg,itsahealthytreat!


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The Hungarian capital is now home to

Europes largest pinball museum

I was just eight years old when my parentsbought me a small pinball toy. I fell in loveinstantly, says Balzs Plfi, the founderof Budapests first pinball museum. But itwas only five years ago that I got aroundto buying my first machine. After that, therewas no stopping me! By , Balzs had

amassed a collection of more than machines, which he was finding difficult to

house. As pinball machines were graduallydisappearing from bars and arcadesthroughout the city, he decided to make hiscollection available to the public. The timingwas right last year Budapest played hostto an international pinball competition, andsince then Balzs has been lucky enough tofind a large, central venue for his museum.

In April, we opened Pinball GalleryBudapest, called Pbal for short. We have

about machines, says Balzs. Theoldest, a very basic bagatelle, dates backto . Yet his favourites are from thes. Thats when manufacturers wereat their most innovative, he says. My topchoice is Ballys Fathom from , whichis characterised by beautiful graphics andchallenging gameplay. flippermuzeum.hu


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THE VIEWPEOPLE FOOD & DRINK PLACES S HOPPING

ILLUSTRATIONBYADAMW

IERCINSKI

Artists, publishers and comic book

fans flock to Poznan in the second

week of August for the fifth instalment

of Ligatura, Eastern Europes biggest

comic book festival. This year Michaela

Konrads pop art-style Spacelove

paintings (pictured) are set to bea highlight, as is the first-ever

exhibition on Polish womens

autobiographical comics.ligatura.eu

Comic ValuePOZNAN


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T H E V I E W PEOPLE


It was a move that sentshockwaves through the

international artistic community.Last year Alina Cojocaru, thebrilliant ballerina from Romania,left the Royal Ballet after almost

years to join rivals, the EnglishNational Ballet (ENB). It was agamble, but one the principaldancer feels has paid off.

My instinct was correct andthe ENB became my home withina very short time, says Cojocaru,who made the jump with fiancand fellow dancer JohanKobborg. Theres a positivefocus and energy thats inspiringand productive. I smile on myway to work and its a wonderfulfeeling. After close to years

with the Royal Ballet, I just cameto the realisation that I had muchmore to give. There was muchmore I wanted to experience anddiscover. I wanted to grow anddevelop in my profession.

Cojocaru has never been

Alina CojocaruThe London-based Romanian ballerina tells u s why she lef t theRoyal Ballet to join its rivals, the English National Ballet

was forced to take a year offafter surgery on her spine. I hitrock bottom, in agonising painand fear, she recalls. It was thestrength of loved ones that gotme back on my feet, and helped

in my search to find the best wayto regain my health. Betweenmy family and friends, I endedup with the greatest team ofpeople, who work as hard in theirrespective fields as I do in mine.I could not be more lucky.

Having battled back fromthe brink, Cojocaru is moredetermined than ever to put ininspirational performances.

Our aim is to do our bestand develop our art form,while also preserving the great

classics, she says. I fell inlove with ballet when I first sawGiselle, so hopefully the storywill continue, with more peopleall over the world becomingballet lovers.alinacojocaru.com

afraid to make some toughchoices to further what has beena sparkling career. The dancerwas just nine when she leftBucharest to study ballet in Kyiv.

The fantastic teachers helped

me fall in love with this beautifulart form, but I did miss my family,she says. As kids we adaptquicker, and I found it helpful tobe in an environment where weall focused on the same things.

In , aged , she competedin the ballet competition Prix deLausanne and won a scholarshipto train at Londons RoyalBallet School. After six months,Cojocaru was offered a contract,but opted for the Kyiv Balletinstead, where she became the

principal dancer, before joiningthe Royal Ballet in .The mental toughness that

Cojocaru built up over the yearsstood her in good stead whenshe suffered a career-threateninginjury in and the dancer

INTERVIEW


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GUTTERCREDITHERE

I hit rock bottom. But the

strength of loved ones got

me back on my feet.

I could not be more lucky


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T H E V I E W FOOD & DRINK


Can you think of a moreelegant dish than sushi

a simple combination of rawseafood and cold rice? Its alsoknown for being light and lowcalorie. Which is why we wererather intrigued when we heardabout a cookbook by MartynasKarpovicius (pictured, inset),aiming tosushify classicEastern European dishes.Stuffed cabbage, hearty soups,potato dumplings, roast porkknuckle, sauerkraut thesedishes dont exactly have areputation for being light onthe stomach. How and why would anyone want to go aboutcreating sushi versions of EasternEuropean cuisine?

Maki (his twist on Lithuaniandumplings, kepti koldunai, stuffwith spinach and cheese) couldeasily pass for a spherical gyoz

Does Martynas think EasternEuropean food is a goodcandidate for sushi? I thinkyou can make almost any cuisinwork in sushi form, he says.Eastern European food is not aminimal as Japanese food, butthats why we thought this projewould be exciting.Eastern European Sushi byMartynas Karpovicius contains recipes. Buy it for ; visiteasterneuropeansushi.com

A lot of new sushi restaurantswere opening in Vilnius, and thatprompted me to think about theproject, says Martynas, whoworks for Clinic , a creativeagency in the city. Lithuanianslike to mix things up a bit, andwe thought it would be kind offun if we took the traditionalsushi form, but instead ofJapanese recipes, used thosefrom Eastern Europe.

And so Eastern European sushiwas born. Martynas and theteam devised sushi variationson a number of di fferent dishes,including an unusual way ofserving Lithuanianlasiniai (fattycured smoked bacon, picturedabove). Typically, it is served on

a slice of rye bread and toppedwith red horseradish. Martynascreated lasiniai nigiri (usuallyrice topped with fish), neatlyplacing the smoked bacon on ahunk of bread, but with a shotof vodka in a bowl on the side,rather than the typical soy sauce.

In some ways, of course,Eastern European cuisine is notso dissimilar to Japanese dishes.Take, for instance, gyoza. Thosebeautifully, crinkled little pastryparcels, filled with chicken orvegetables, are very similar toPolands semi-circular pierogi,which usually come stuffed withingredients such as potato andcheese, sauerkraut or pork. Infact, Martynass Fried Dumpling

VILNIUS

EasternEuropean Sushi

An enter prising company f rom Lithuania has shaken upthe Baltic with its Japanese spin on traditional food

GREEN ONION

LASINIAI BACON VODK

BREAD

RED HORSERADISH


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AD

The Lithuanian cepelinai(zeppelin) potato dumplings,so-called thanks to theirresemblance to the airship, deserve

a slot on the Man v FoodTVshow, being almost impossible tocomfortably finish in one go. Hereis a lighter, maki(sushi roll) version.

For the dumpling mixture, mixtogether peeled potatoes(eight grated; two boiled andput through a ricer), finelygrated onion, tsp of salt anda drop of lemon juice.

Separately, mix togetherg of ground pork,

medium onion (chopped),seasoning and beaten eggfor the stuffing.

To form the zeppelins, takea handful of dumpling mixtureand flatten it in the palm ofyour hand. Place tbspof the meat mixture in themiddle and fold the dumplingmixture carefully.

Add tbsp of cornflour tosalted, boiling water (to stop thedumplings from falling apart),then lower in the zeppelins andcook for minutes.

Pat the zeppelins dry and cutinto elegant maki shapes.

Serve with traditional zeppelinsauce sour cream mixed withcooked bacon and fried onions.

HOW TO MAKE

ZEPPELINAKI


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T H E V I E W FOOD & DRINK

A Taste of SummerSwitch your usual drink order for a refreshing cocktail. Heres where you

can try our favour ite tipples and how you can make them at home

FRENCH

Created at Harrys New York Barin Parisin , the French wasoriginally made with gin, but you

can also use Cognac. harrysbar.fr

Recipe:

ml fresh lemon juice .ml simple syrup (one

part water, one part sugar) ml gin or Cognac

ml Champagne

METAXA SIDECAR

This Sidecar is made withMetaxa, a smooth Greek brandy.Order it at Lounge Bar in

Heraklion(th Augoustou ).

MARTINI

The Martini is American, buts shaken, not stirredversion was created atLondons

Savoy. fairmont.com/savoy-london

Recipe:

ml gin ml dry vermouth

One or three olives on acocktail stick, or a lemon

twist, for the garnish

NEGRONI

Order a Negroni at PasticceriaDagnino in Rome. This pastryshop will throw one together for

just . pasticceriadagnino.com

Recipe:

ml sweet vermouth ml Campari

ml gin Orange slice or twist

for garnish

Recipe:

ml Metaxa Seven Star ml Cointreau

ml lemon juice ml orange juice

Cocktail umbrella!

Negroni

Martini

MetaxaSidecar

French75



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www.garroneitaly.com

for everydestinationGarrone CherryGarrone Bianco Garrone SpritzGarrone LimoncelloGarrone Asti
http://www.garroneitaly.com/http://www.garroneitaly.com/


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T H E V I E W PLACE S


On the banks of theRioni river, a rushing

waterway lined with lushgreenery, lies Georgias secondcity. On the west bank, youllfind Kutaisis most notable sights the Bagrati Cathedral, theruins of the neighbouring palace-citadel and the lush, expansiveBesik Gabashvili Park.

The east side is more modern,and is home to the city marketand main square. Look out forthe succession of picturesquebridges and a cable car whichtakes you across the river and upto a hill in the park.

KUTAISI

Go with the FlowKutaisis main sights are dotted along the Rioni river. Pick them out f rom thelofty vantage point of the old-style cable car or by strolling along the waterside

Mirzaani

Set back from the river, near toKutaisi Market, Mirzaani isthe restaurant outlet of thelocal brewery chain of the samename. The staff are friendly (andspeak good English) and foodhere features the adventurous think hen entrails or roast henliver as well as more simplefare, such as a khachapuricheese pie, the perfectaccompaniment to a refreshingpint of black beer. Leave room forthe cheese platter afterwards, areal speciality. Rustaveli Street

Cable Car

Just beyond Rustaveli Bridgeyoull find a cable car to whiskyou over the Rioni to BesikGabashvili Park. This small,brick-red, old-style cable car isactive throughout the day andis capable of carrying a dozenpassengers at a pinch, whetherits climbing up to the top of thepark or descending to the OldTown, swinging gently as it goeFrom the top of the cable-carstation there are lovely views ofthe Old Town, the Red Bridgeand, of course, the river.

Old Town

The light-coloured facadesof Kutaisis Old Town, hiddenin a maze of cobblestonestreets, are currently beingcleaned up and renovated.Some buildings hark back tothe Tsarist and Soviet eras,when Kutaisi was a boomingindustrial hub. Why not pick upa penovani, a delicious flakyGeorgian cheese pastry, atone of the Old Towns manybakeries, to enjoy while youamble through the streets andpretty squares?


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Bagrati Cathedral

If you only have time to seeone sight while in Kutaisi, theit has to be the iconic BagratiCathedral. With a commandinview of the river, this th-cenlandmark and UNESCO WorHeritage site was reopenedin after three years ofcontroversial renovation. It wabuilt in on the orders ofKing Bagrat III, the first kingof a united Georgia. Bagratinow attracts worshippers aswell as tourists, as Orthodoxservices have since resumed.

Besik Gabashvili Park

Linked by a series of walkways,waterways and scenic bridges,Besik Gabashvili Park (commonlyjust referred to as parki bythe locals) is a tranquil area ofwooded green space not far fromthe east bank of the river. It alsocontains an old-style amusementpark with a Ferris wheel. Thepark is named after BesarionGabashvili, also known as Besiki,a soldier-poet from the late thcentury who fought alongsideTsarist forces against GeorgiasOttoman occupiers.

Kutaisi Market

Its stalls weighed down by neatlystacked oranges, pears andaubergines, Kutaisis traditionalmarket on the east bank is whereto discover some of Georgiasmore unusual specialities.Hanging in rows behindthese stalls youll see somechurchkhela, sausage-shapedcandies made with walnuts,grape juice, almonds and raisins;the bright red peppers that makeajika, a local condiment; andthe cherry plums used to maketkelmali(sour plum sauce).

Red Bridge

Near Kutaisis city centre, ahandful of roads and bridgescross the Rioni at its narrowestpoint but the Red Bridge (orTsiteli Khidi in Georgian),near the Old Town, providesthe best view of both banksand the town beyond.Overlooking Kutaisis mainsquares on the east bank, theRed Bridge is a hub for localminibus drivers and allowsyou to see the traffic zoomingover Rustaveli Bridge, the nextcrossing point to the south.ILL

USTRATIONB

YALBERTOA

NTON

IAZZI


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T H E V I E W PLACE S


Co Cech, to muzikant

(Every Czech is a

musician), or so the saying goes.Ondrej Kobza may not be ableto play an instrument, but hesflooded Pragues streets withlively melodies. How? By placingpianos in public spaces, allowingtalented passers-by to lift thespirits of nearby strangers withtheir musical renditions.

Ondrejs scheme began lastsummer outside Caf V Lese, oneof several hipster haunts he owns.The first one was an experiment,he explains, but it was such asuccess that I had to spread thegood vibes. Having raised fundsthrough crowdsourcing, Ondrejpurchased more pianos; supportersalso donated unwanted babygrands and uprights. Soon therewere of them all over theCzech capital, including atWenceslas Square, Vclav

Ondrej has certainly succeedein rallying others. More than

other Czech towns and citiesnow have street pianos. WhenI first saw them, I was thrilled,"says Pavla Spurn, who setup Brno's street piano scheme(klaviryprobrno.cz). Not everyonhas an instrument at home. Thiswas exactly what Id been wantinfor years! She put out a callon Facebook asking supportersto donate instruments and wasoverwhelmed by the response.Many people got in touch tooffer practical help, as well as olpianos. Some were in bad shapebut four or five were useable,Pavla says. Ondrej himself evenmade the trip to Brno. Thatwas great, as he could helpwith all the bureaucracy, shesays. Just a week after our firstannouncement online, he broughthe first piano here.

Havel Airport and Nplavka, therevamped Vltava quayside.

The project won internationalattention last year when a videoclip of a policeman tinkling theivories while on patrol went viral.His faultless rendition of YirumasRiver Flows in You received overtwo million hits on YouTube.The street pianos are back thissummer, but on a smaller scale:at the time of writing, there areeight in position around the city.

We catch up with Ondrej atCaf Neustadt, his latest kavrna,which has breathed new life intothe historic Novomestsk Radnice.The courtyard is now lined withdeck chairs which you can enjoywhile drinking ice-cold beer andof course, theres a piano.

I dont pretend to be original,he says. If someone comes upwith a great idea for makingtheir city a better place, then

why shouldnt people replicate itelsewhere? Ondrej has plenty of

other original plans up his sleeve,including the placing of giantchess sets in public areas. Thatsstill on hold, but his mission tobring strangers together throughdance (see caminito.cz)didcome to fruition: We held acouple of public tango events lastDecember at Hlavn Ndra [thecitys main train station], he says.

My main aim isnt just to sharemusic, but to persuade regularcitizens to take action andimprove their local environment,he argues. The pianos are asymbol which say, I am herenot because of politicians, butbecause of ordinary people.

He hopes that the profits fromhis popular hangouts will fundhis pop-up projects: I want thecafs to act as a springboard formore urban interventions.

PRAGUE

BohemianRhapsodyThis summer, the sound of open-air pianorecitals are echoing down Prag ues streets,thanks to a local who cant play a note

Seepiananaulici.czforthelocationofPraguespianosthissummer!


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T H E V I E W


Location and style ourtwo main criteria when

choosing a hotel dont alwaysgo hand-in-hand, and certainlynot at a good price. This is whythe four-star Hotel Hanza has

quickly become our favouriteplace to stay in Gdansk.

On the Motawa River,with views of the quaysidesattractive Hanseatic buildings,

this charming hotel is only afew metres from The Crane ath-century structure that shiftedheavy cargo onto ships in theharbour. Destroyed during WorldWar II, but since restored, its the

only one of its kind in the world,and an iconic city landmark.Perhaps the new ShakespeareTheatre (on ul. Bogusawskiego)will be too. The hotels proximity

to the theatre gave us agood reason to stay at HotelHanza recently (see page for our feature).

And, of course, the hotel isstylish. The rooms are comfortable

(try to get a suite with a balconyoverlooking the water) andall come with WiFi, TV andair-conditioning. The restaurantis superb, too. Its slightly odd

but playful motto (Let us flirtwith you) reflects chef DanielChrzanowskis cuisine thinkleg of lamb with a zingy cherry-and-mint sauce. Or perhaps youlike to see what a Polish barbecu

is all about? Daniel recently wonan award for his grilling skills, anhis meat dishes are second tonone. Book your flight and hotelat wizztours.com

Radisson Blu DaugavaFly to Riga

This Radisson Blu, overlooking the

Daugava River, fulfils the criteria ofa business hotel its meetingrooms can accommodate attendees but its spa is the star.After closing that deal, enjoy anindoor swimming pool, massageand sauna. Book at wizztours.com

Hotel LindnerFly to Frankfurt

This s-style building on the

Sachsenhausen River is home toFrankfurts finest spa hotel. Itswellness centre is squaremetres, with plenty of room for apool (pictured right), sauna, gymand state-of-the-art treatmentrooms. Book at wizztours.com

K West HotelFly to London

This modern, four-star hotel is just

a stones throw from ShepherdsBush station. The fabulous K Spauses Aromatherapy Associates,Ytsara and Russie Blanche productsin its treatments. It also has ahydrotherapy pool, sauna andsteam room. Book at wizztours.com

THREE OF THE BEST: SPA RETREATS

Hanseatic HideawayGDANSK

PLACE S


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T H E V I E W SHOPPING

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Does Craiova have the edge on other cities in

its bid to be a European Capital of Culturein 2021? We assess its artistic merits

Words byAndrew Petrie

Photographyby Tim E. White



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rother Nicodim is very disappointed

in Lance Armstrong. I was an

athlete when I was younger, he tells

me. Sportsmen were heroes back then. Now

sport is ruined. He shakes his head.

Clad from head to toe in black, and sporting

a luxuriant beard that would be the envy of

a hipster barista, Brother Nicodim is one of

nine monks at the Jitianu Monastery, located

just outside the southern Romanian c ity of

Craiova. And hes keen to practise his English,

even on such non-theological subjects as the

fall of cyclings most notorious drug cheat.

But lets rewind to Craiova the previous

day, when I arrive on a humid evening heavy

with birdsong and the scent of roses. Startingwith a visit to a pavement caf in the main

square, I get my bearings by way of the

floodlit Eastern Orthodox churches. What

is soon clear is that everything in Craiova is

fairly close to hand. It s a highly walkable

place, though a taxi ride within the city will

rarely set you back more than lei ().

In the morning, the Museum of Oltenia is

my first port of call. The Oltenia region, with

Craiova as its focus, is bidding to be a European

Capital of Culture in . Over the centuries,

this part of Central Europe has been influenced

by various tribes, factions and civilisations, and

all are represented in the museum by way ofRoman coins, fur-trimmed Bohemian costumes

and fearsome studded war hammers.

Only five minutes away is the Oltenia

Philharmonic Concert Hall, where I sit in on

a rehearsal of the resident chamber ensemble,

Vingt Instruments. Its name is a reminder of

Romanias strong cultural links with France, as

are the citys grand buildings, visibly the work

of French architects. Romanian is one of the

five Romance languages descended from Vulgar

Latin (the others being French, Italian, Spanish

and Portuguese), so youll be surprised at how

far even basic Italian or French will get you with

understanding signs, menus and so on.

And so conductor Mircea Suchici and I

discuss Craiovas bid for Capital of Culture

in French rather than his halting English. He

explains that four other towns are part of the

bid, including Trgu Jiu, of which more later.

Strength in numbers is what he believes will

give Craiova the edge when all the bids are

in. Were very pleased to be a part of it, he

says, indicating the musicians. Its at this point

that the ensemble is joined by its non-musical

member, a tortoiseshell cat that I first take tobe a stray, but who is in fact another resident

of the concert hall who has been known to

saunter on stage during performances. He

sleeps in the piano, says Mircea with a smile.

A taxi driver in an England shi rt and

not-quite-matching Blackburn Rovers

shorts drives me the minutes out of town

to Jitianu Monastery and my rendezvous

with Brother Nicodim. The monasterys

tiny church was completed in and has

survived looting by the Ottomans and, more

recently, the earthquake that devastated

much of Romania. The ensuing floods did

their worst, however: Brother Ni codim showsme a tide mark nearly a metre up the exterior

wall that marks the limit of the rising waters.

Back in town, I have an appointment at

the citys most beautiful building of all, the

Museum of Art. Its fairy-tale exterior and

lavish halls have been superbly restored,

the better to display the work of Craiovas

favourite son, the sculptor Constantin

Brncui ( -).

LEFT:REHEARSALS AT THE

OLTENIA CONCERT HALL.

BELOW:CYCLING FAN

BROTHER NICODIM.

RIGHT: CRAIOVAS

BEAUTIFUL MADONA

DUDU CHURCH

CRA IOVA

B


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CRA IOVA

ABOVE:THE STAINED

GLASS WINDOWS AT

RESTAURANT MINERVA.

BELOW: THE RESTAURANTS

ELABORATE FOYER

Brncuis work has twice broken the

record for the most expensive sculpture

sold at auction, most recently in when

Portrait of Madame LRfetched .m at

Christies in Paris. Romanians are so proud

of their greatest cultural export (before the

advent of the Cheeky Girls, of course) that

they put him on the lei banknote. Themuseums director, Emilian tefrta, shows

me the salon dedicated to Brncuis pivotal

early works, some of which were carved in

stone and then later recast in bronze, ending

up in the worlds grandest art collections.

Just so uth of the museum on Calea Uniri i

is the Restaurant Minerva. Its recently

reopened Moorish-style lounge is a popular

venue for notoriously full-on Romanian

wedding receptions, with a glass ceiling and

almost psychedelic colour scheme that are

worth a visit by themselves.

Craiovas other landmark is Nicolae

Romanescu Park, winner of the gold medalfor landscape design at the Great Exhibition

in Paris in . Its acres include sculpted

hillocks, a boating l ake and a spectacular

ornamental suspension bridge, sadly beset by

the plague of lovers padlocks, which has now

reached Romania. On a summers evening,

this lovely park is where youll find the locals.

As the light fades, I head for the Orthodox

Cathedral of the Madonna near the Museum of

Oltenia. With no pews available, worshippers

kneel on mats. The haunting singing is

pitched somewhere between Western Churc

plainsong and Byzantine chants.

Spiritually refreshed but in need of a cold

beer, I head to Trend, a bar on Madona Dudu

Street. Waitress Isabelle chats about Craiova

nightlife and recommends a watering hole fotomorrow, Scena on A. I. Cuza Street, which

is, she assures me, very OK.

I take my breakfast the next morning

at English caf Big Ben where, rather than

The Timesor Country Life, I find an array

of magazines from all over Europ e. If you

need your fix of Vogue Italiaor Marie Claire

France, you know where to come. In the

evening, Big Ben is an ideal spot in which to

sink a pint of Ci uc, a popular Romanian beer

Some km north of Crai ova is the town

of Trgu Jiu which, though much smaller,

might just prove to be Oltenias ace in the

hole for that Capital of Culture bid. HereBrncuis three largest works are displayed

not in a museum but in public spaces befittin

their size. Two great stone artefacts, The

Table of Silence and The Gate of Kiss, are

located close together in the park by the Riv

Jiu. The latter traces its roots to the much

smaller sculpture The Kiss, the original of

which can be seen at Craiovas Museum of Ar

Its The Infinite Column, however, located


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CRA IO

across town but forming the eastern end of a

straight line with the other two works, that

takes the breath away. The slim, mcolumn, conceived as a monument to the

local men who died defending Trgu Jiu in

World War I, takes the form of a stack of

iron-and-steel modules, coated in brass,

the topmost of which is symbolically

truncated. Shortlisted for UNESCO

protection, these three works are central

to Oltenias claim to worldwide cultural

significance and should not be missed.

Back in Craiova, theres just time to visit

the Scena bar before flying home. Its a bit

smoky; you can still puff away indoors in

Romania, and cigarettes get more menu

space than wine. The venue overlooks WilliamShakespeare Square and a statue of the

playwright reminders that the city recently

hosted the International Shakespeare Festival.

With the Bard on board, I wouldnt bet against

Craiova clinching the Capital of Culture title.

TOP:BRANCUSIS THE

INFINITE COLUMN.

ABOVE: A STATUE OF

BRANCUSI IN NICOLAE

ROMANESCU PARK.

LEFT:ORNAMENTAL BR

BELOW:BRANCUSIS

THE GATEOF KISS

Wizz Air flies to Craiova from seven

destinations. Book online at wizzair.com

or download the Wizz Air app.


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GDAN

he timing couldnt be better. This

year mark s the th anniversary of

Shakespeares birth, and while many

cities across Europe are celebrating with

special performances and festivities, only

one is marking the event with the opening

of a brand-new theatre in his honour. Gdansk

has an unexpectedly strong relationshipwith the playwright. Not on ly was the city

mentioned in some of his plays (back then

it was known as Danzig), but it was also

home to the only Shakespearian pl ayhouse

to be constructed outside England in his

lifetime. Now a striking m theatre

built on the same spot as its th-century

predecessor has been designed by Italian

Renato Rizzi and will open on September,

with Prince Charles in attendance. It will

be just in t ime to host Gdansks prestigious

annual Shakespeare Festival.

Its the culmination of a long quest

by artistic director Professor Jerzy Limon

to build a theatre in the very city where he

helped establish the festival. Until now, the

annual Gdansk Shakespeare Festival hadtaken place at smaller venues around the

city. But as th e festivals reputation grew,

and began to attract some of Europes finest

directors, it ran out of space and locations

to host the events.

Limon championed tirelessly to have

a new Elizabethan theatre built for the

festival. The result is stunning, and worthy

of a tradition as old as Shakespeare himself.

Rizzi has designed a jewel box of a

theatre, with a lid-type roof that allows

in daylight for matinee performances.

Inside youll see the delicate wooden

structure of the typical Elizabethan

playhouse, with a theatre-in-the-round at

its centre. High up, a surrounding walkway

gives a panoramic view of the city.This years anniversary programme inclu

several versions of Hamlet.Polish director

Jan Klatas new staging is inf luenced by his

production in the Gdansk shipyards a decad

ago, while Bulgarian film and theatre direct

Javor Gardevs unique version was first

performed at Sofias National Theatre last y

Gdansk's Shakespeare Festival runs from

September October, shakespearefestiva

T

Gdansks new Shakespeare Theatre opens in September,just in time for the citys festival in honour of the Bard.

We meet the people who made it happen

Words byPeterjon Cresswell

Photographyby Tim E. White /Illustrations byPeter Strain


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The festivals artistic director, Jerzy

Limon, first appeared at my office at

Regional Heritage in . What he

proposed was extraordinary, compelling

and fascinating yet, at the time, so

completely utopian. He wanted me to help

in the construction of a brand-new

Elizabethan theatre in Gdansk.

The challenge was to enrich the

cultural landscape of the city. I became

Limons guide through the Byzantine

procedures of administration and

bureaucracy, which culminated in

our foundation and our tender for an

architect of international standing.

In the meantime, I managed to discover

the relics of the original Elizabethan theatre

which convinced the sceptics that the

building actually existed in Gdansk.

After choosing Renato Rizzi to be our

architect, we had the hard task of recreating

the theatre within strict heritage guidelines

while keeping to the spirit of our original ide

What at first seemed an idealistic

idea is now going to be an attraction of

extraordinary cultural value to Gdansk.


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GDAN

Last year Jerzy Limon asked us to set up

a series of street happenings around Gdansk,

Gdynia and Sopot to promote Shakespeare in

the most entertaining and original way.

We had a big mirror that read

Shakespeare in capital letters, which we

displayed to cars sat at pedestrian crossings

or stuck in traffic. We jumped around with

the sign in city fountains and monuments and

even took it on cruise ships.

We wanted to get people involved. On the

main street we put out a big table with a white

tablecloth and served traditional English tea

with sandwiches.

The day before the festival, we packed

ourselves into big suitcases which were then

put out on the street. People could see only

our hands or feet, holding out festival leaflets.

They found it funny to take them from our

fingers or toes. It certainly got their interest.

This year were planning on staging

various performances of Shakespeares

famous love scenes, accompanied by an

electric cello, plus an excerpt from

Macbeth. A huge pan will be filled with

bubbling water and three witches will

conjure up all the other characters.

My task is to prepare the love scenes,

and direct part ofThe Tempest. Im also

co-ordinating the promotional activities for

the opening of the Shakespeare Theatre.


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R IG

We started the festival years ago to

celebrate Gdansks Millennium. We have been

bringing theatre companies here since .

The beginning was difficult. Thanks to

the support of the city, the British Council

and sponsors, the festival grew in reputation

around Europe. In , we founded the

European Network of Shakespeare Festivals.

Its nation members, including Armenia,

Denmark, Hungary and Germany, were all

actually mentioned in the Bards plays.

Over the years, audiences have changed,

as have the performances. Todays shows

have a visible impact video art, body art and

so on, bringing controversial scenes to the

stage, and serving to provoke and undermine

traditional means of perception.

Of course, the language has changed,

too. Very often Shakespeare s works are

done anew, the order of scenes is altered,

dialogues deleted, new ones added. It takes

great literary and theatrical talent to amend

Shakespeare and create something moving

and original. Belgian director Luk Perceva

a good example of someone who does it we

Today we cant accommodate our festiv

in one theatre alone, even in the new one w

are opening. We have several venues in and

around Gdansk. The Two Windows Theatr

is a gem, with two large windows opening t

the street at ground level. We put the stage

outside and the windows are used as stage

doors, as in Elizabethan playhouses.

GDAN


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GDAN

I started as a festival volunteer in

. Two years on, the organisers asked

me to conduct art workshops inspired by

Shakespeare, his characters and poetry. My

studio was in the Gdansk shipyards.

In , works by some of these young

artists were shown in public spaces around

Gdansk, including the Podwale Przedmiejskie

underpass, close to the site of where the

Elizabethan theatre will open this autumn.

Many locals walk past here every day, from

the transport hubs to downtown Gdansk. Theunderpass has capitalised on its once dingy

reputation to became a place where you might

encounter Hamlet or Lady Macbeth.

My mural Shipyardwas lost in the

demolition of the surrounding buildings in

. Ive since created the three-canvas

Patience, exhibited at the Laznia Centre for

Contemporary Art in Gdansk and in galleries

in Sweden, Germany and Lithuania.


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Ive been helping to organise the

Gdansk Shakespeare Festival since ,

taking care of logistics and contacts

with visiting theatre companies. I

became directly engaged in creating the

European Shakespeare Festivals Network

in Gdansk, which now has members

from nine countries.

So far we have brought more than

productions from all over the world to Gdansk

and the region. The festival has gained

recognition throughout Europe, broadening

our regular audience base.

We also run workshops, lectures and

seminars at the Summer Shakespeare

Academy, and have created a space for

alternative performances at ShakespeareOFF.

This fringe event is a great opportunity for

young artis ts to gain recognitio n.

Im also involved in the annual Golden

Yorick prize for Best Polish Shakespeare

production, and set up the Talent Factory

community arts project targeted in the

citys neglected Dolne Miasto district.

Weve dedicated a lot of this years

programme to Hamlet. During British Week,

which precedes the festival and lasts until

September, players from Londo ns Globe

Theatre will perform. Later, Javor Gardev

will deliver a technologically advanced

production, especially adjusted to the unique

possibilities of the new theatre building.

Wizz Air flies to Gdansk from

destinations. Book o nline at wizzair.com



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In Barcelona sure they serve gin with tonic, but also withstrawberries, rose tea and apple smoke. We go in searchof the ultimate G&T

Words by Tara Stevens/ Photography by Carlos Hernandez

GIN WITHA TWIST


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Five years ago, youd get a tall glass

filled with three quarters gin and a

quarter tonic, says Antonio Pozo

Gegauf when I ask him about Barcelonas gin

and tonic boom. It was undrinkable. That all

changed when premium gins started to use

the balloon glass to open up the aromatics and

made more of the garnish. Gin became classy,

refreshing and infinitely variable, and it changed

the way bartenders and consumers interacted in

ways that had never happened before.

Antonio and I are hanging out in the

shade of a large Arbequina olive tree in the

lush gardens that surround the chapel at the

Gin Mare distillery (ginmare.com). A chapel

seems an unlikely place for a distillery unless

you happen to worship at the altar of GinMare, as many Catalans do. Its become the

drink du jour,Antonio tells me, and its

perfectly normal to have or more bottles

stashed behind the bar at the citys many

gin joints, with punters specifying their

pour by brand. This is why, in , brothers

Manuel and Marc Gir de la Iglesia launched

Gin Mare. After witnessing the meteoric rise

of Hendricks, and the number of bars

devoted to the spirit popping up all across the

capital, the brothers decided that what Spain

needed was a premium gin with more of a

Mediterranean personality.

Over the course of a year and a half, thebrothers individually distilled different

botanicals for eight hours or more (the

flavours are purer and more defined this

way), experimenting until they came up with

the perfect blend. Oregano, bay and cloves

were rejected, but thyme, rosemary, bay and

Arbequina olives made the grade, and became

the basis for the spirit that would become

Gin Mare. It took another year and half to get

the mix just right, adding more classically

gin-related botanicals such as juniper,

coriander, cardamom and citrus to give the

blend backbone. But by now there were many

more premium gins hitting the market. It was

like a tsunami, says Antonio, the companys

export manager, but they had one keyadvantage: they were local (some km

outside of Barcelona), and the Catalan capital

could not get enough gin and tonic.

At pm on the dot, on a sunny, Tuesday

evening, we find ourselves at the sleek Ohla

Boutique Bar (ohlahotel.com). Here thirsty

bar-goers are already clamouring for their

first drink and they want it from Giacomoloris

Giannotti, a favourite in this years Best

BARCE LONA

Bartender Awards. Tall, dark and devilishly

handsome, as all good bartenders should be, h

tells me why gin is so popular and special to th

city. It really suits the Mediterranean lifestyle

the sunshine, the sea, thejoie de vivre,and it

become a proper show, he winks. Ive had gi

in bars where its almost like getting a salad,theres so much garnish in the glass.

His is rather more clever than that. Named

the Decantalo (), its made by infusing

Tanqueray No. with camomile, tonka beans

and pink peppercorns for three minutes befor

straining into a balloon glass with fresh ginger

rubbed around the rim. The tonic is then slow

poured over the ice cubes, finishing with a twis

of grapefruit and a swizzle stick of lemongrass.

GIN MARE BLENDS ITS

JUNIPER BERRIES WITH

OLIVES AND THYME

INSIDE GIN MARES

CHAPEL DISTILLERY


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The result is bitter, aromatic and multi-layered

more cocktail than G&T.

Ten minutes away in groovy Grcia is Bobby

Gin (bobbygin.com), a bar opened a couple of

years ago by Manuel Fors, Oscar Alcaraz

and mixologist Albert Pizarro. Around this

time, [Spanish chef] Ferran Adri beganenthusing about all these premium gins,

Manuel tells me, from his nook of cool stone

walls and a bar fashioned from old wooden

doors. Before that, Spain only had four brands

of gin and they were mostly only good for one

thing cleaning the bar.

Bobby Gin profiles its or brands to

help consumers better understand what they

are getting. Their gins are categorised by

strawberries and grapefruit, alongside

a Hendricks Ginfonk (), which pushes

the envelope by blending Hendricks with

rose tea, strawberries, lime and vegetable

elixir. Its especially delicious when paired

with gin-friendly tapas, such as salmon

marinated in more Hendricks and served wicucumber ribbons, an octopus ceviche with

mango, and rare Iberian pork scattered with

shaved Parmesan.

We head back down the hill to Bar Xix

(xixbar.com), where owner Mike Cruickshan

was one of the pioneers of Barcelonas dedic

gin and tonic bars. Housed in a former salt co

shop with a marble bar and black-and-white

mosaic tiles, come midnight its the buzziest

Gin here is a wholenew world. Its electric more romantic, morefantastical. Obviously

People love it

floral, herbal, fruity, citrus, spiced, balanced

and vintage blends, and served with a choice

of tonics. There is an unpretentious vibe

to the place that makes the experimental

concoctions seem effortless. We order a classic,

very summery Bobbys Spring () with

BOBBY GIN HAS SEVEN CATEGORIES

TO IDENTIFY ITS DIFFERENT BLENDS

THE DECANTALO, WITH GINGER

RUBBED AROUND THE GLASS'S RIM

AT BOBBY GIN, DRINKS ARE PAIREDWITH GINFRIENDLY TAPAS

BARCELO


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BARCE LO

place in town. This is thanks to a team offast-wristed bartenders in shirts and braces,

house-made gin infusions ranging from ginger tolicorice to butter-washed, and or so premiumbrands behind the bar. Frequented by clientele,and later on, staff, from restaurants such asAlbert Adriss (Ferrans younger brother) Ticketsand Bodega , it crackles like a fireworkabout to go off. As I sidle up to the bar, I decideto order a bone-dry Seagrams, pepped up witha splash of Aperol (.). Gin here is a wholenew world, head bartender Enzo Comes tellsme. Look around. Its electric more romantic,more fantastical, obviously people love it.

I end up at (grados.es), Albert Adriscocktail bar. From its opening at the end of

to its temporary closure and relocation inearly August this year, Mark lvarez has beenits head bartender. Together with pals MontseMascar, Roger and Lluis Borges and Marc Xano,he created the bars own brand Gin Raw aLondon Dry-style gin with lots of versatility. Ilove the finesse and complexity of gin, he says,chipping away at an ice block, as I ask him whatis so special about this spirit in particular, but Ibelieve a good bartender needs to be sensitive tothe authenticity of the drink. For me, thats gin,tonic and a double twist, the first straight into thealcohol so the oils refresh the mouth, the secondstraight after the tonic to stimulate the nose.

Still, this is the cocktail bar of Albert Adri,so Im thinking crazy not classic and whatis to be done with all that ice? The PinkFlamingo is not a gin tonic, Mark reminds me.Its an experience. Thats gin infused withred shiso in a chemists bottle and apple smokefrom a shisha pipe. Smoke swirls around theheady pink drink as its piped into the glass,flowing over the iceberg-like shards, like fogover water, before topping off with tonic. Theapple smoke hits my tastebuds first, and thenI get the flavours from the gin and tonic thered shiso slightly aniseedy, but thankfully notsweet. It might not be a simple G&T, but the Pink Flamingo is crisp and dry and refreshingwhich, for me, are essential elements whichmake a perfect gin and tonic. Im not sure ifthis city makes the best, I think as I breathein the warm smoke, but its certainly home tosome of the most experimental.

Wizz Air flies to Barcelona from



You need to be sensitiveto the drinks authenticity.For me, thats gin, tonicand a double twist

BAR XIX IS BARCELONASBUZZIEST GIN JOINT

THE PINK FLAMINGOS MARK LVAREZCREATING HIS PINK FLAMINGO


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Maltas pint-sized capital

in the middle of a modernmakeover, writes Juliet Ri


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rom a pink velvet armchair at TicoTico bar, glass in hand, you can sit

and admire the honeyed limestone

facades of pedestrian Strait Street a tiny back

alley also known as the Gut which,

since the th century, has been the citys

prime meeting place. This is where the Knights

of Malta settled their duels and Royal Navy

sailors came for fun while their ships were

being serviced at the nearby Grand Harbour.

But when the Navy sailed off for the last time in

, the street was largely forgotten. Now its

on the rise again and at the centre of Vallettas

current regeneration, thanks to a spate of new

bars, restaurants and pop-up galleries.This year marks Maltas th anniversary

(thats half a century of independence from

Britain), and this island nation in the middle

of the Mediterranean is displaying a new

confidence. With help from the EU, government

and private funds, Malta is actively restoring

the built heritage of its rich , years,

and looking forward to a promising future.

Valletta, once spurned by locals as dreary and

MALTA

run down, a place to work but not to live orplay, is coming to life again. Already a UNESC

World Heritage City, it will be a European

Capital of Culture in , and is awash with

new projects and openings.

Most dramatic and controversial is th

remodelling of City Gate, the th-century

fortification that forms the entrance to

Valletta, taking you into the square just

inside. It is a reminder of the citys founding

by the Knights of St John in . Five years

earlier, they had nearly lost Malta when

the Ottoman fleet subjected them to the

devastating Great Siege. The Pope sent them

his favourite Italian architect to build anoble and impregnable new capital, on a

barren hill almost entirely surrounded by se

Once intended to repel visitors, the City Gat

is now a draw for tourists.

Given its location, Valletta has been

unable to expand or change much. It is still

recognisably the City of the Knights, its vast

bastion walls enclosing a grid of delightful

narrow streets, some no more than an uneve

RENZO PIANOS STRIKING

NEW CITY GATE

STATUE OF

MALTAS TH

GRAND MASTER


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Valletta is still recognisablythe City of the Knights, its vastbastion walls enclosing a grid

of delightful narrow streets


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MAL

Todays architecturemust settle politelyamong the stones, likeflowers on the rooftops

flights of steps, overhung with characteristic

painted wooden balconies.

But a capital cannot be a living museum.

Even World Heritage cities need a life and

a future, says Konrad Buhagiar, whose

Architecture Project is a partner in the City

Gate development. The revamp a new

bridge, gateway, theatre and parliament

building is the work of ultra-contemporary

Italian architect Renzo Piano, creator of the

towering London Shard. But he hasnt

covered the capital in glass an d steel.

Instead hes used Vallettas traditi onal

honey-coloured stone, although the style

is clearly contemporary.

Todays architecture, continues

Buhagiar, must settle quietly and politely

among the stones, like budding flowers on

the rooftops. It is the heritage of tomorrow.

But is it? Opinion is divided, and there are

rumblings of discontent over a number of new

buildings. For example, it seemed a clever

idea to create a new open-air performance

theatre inside the ruins of Vallettas glorious

Royal Opera House, which was destroyed in

World War II. Even so, some are quibbling

that the new, bright green plastic seats clashwith the mellow limestone setting.

The design of the citys parliament

building on stilts above a pedestrian

square has won slightly more support.

Some see it as a status symbol and say it puts

Malta on the modern map. Others, however,

describe it as one big pigeon roost and

many are angry that so much money has

been spent on it. Of Renzo Pianos City Gate,

the common complaint is that the doors of

this dramatically fortified city can no longer

be closed.

Not that the Maltese are expecting an

invasion except maybe from an army ofvisitors. With everything seemingly just

renovated or about to be, wonderful

historic buildings are gaining a new lease

of life as tourist attractions, accommodation,

restaurants, bars, shops and museums.

From the Lascaris War Rooms the Allied

Forces secret Mediterranean HQ deep

inside the bastions (lascariswarrooms.com),

to the new, architectural award-winning

THE OPENAIR PERFORMANCE SPACE

AT THE ROYAL OPERA HOUSE

PHOTOSBYRAHELWEISS


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Fortifications Interpretation Centre at Biagio

Steps, Vallettas sights are becoming more

numerous, varied and visitor-friendly by

the month.The restored Fort St Elmo, which guarded

the entrance to the Grand Harbour even

before the city was built, opens to the public

in the autumn, with part of it given over to

a new Military History Museum. Among the

exhibits will be the Jeep in which General

Eisenhower rode around Malta durin g World

War II and, on permanent public view for the

first time, the George Cross that George VI

awarded to the entire population of Malta for

bravery under siege from to . Its

image still adorns the national flag, and the

occasion is marked annually with a ceremony

in St Georges Square.The square is another revitalised area

of town. Now car-free, with a cooling,

modern fountain and contemporary

benches on which to laze while using the

free Wi-Fi, it is the heart of the Knights

city. One whole side of the square forms

the Grand Masters Palace (heritagemalta.org)

and just off that is the Knights church,

St Johns Co-Cathedral, a magnificent

Wizz Air flies to Malta from four


download the Wizz Air app.

MAL

baroque building, even more dazzling

since its recent renovation.

Not so long ago there was nothing much

to do in Valletta after dark except enjoy, asBuhagiar puts it, the quiet mystery of its

night. You can still savour its serenity but

now, particularly at the weekend, you can a

head to Strait Street, just behind St George

Square, for a bit more action.

Valletta has really changed, says Clint

Debono, owner of Strait Streets colourful T

Tico bar, standing underneath its old poster

and black-and-white photos of an earlier,

nautical clientele. Vallettas city revamp has

brought with it a new, open-minded social

culture, he says. Its the only place I know

where men and women of all ages, gay and

straight, from all over Europe, in smart suitor torn jeans and trainers, happily drink sid

by side, chatting with one another into the

early hours. Sitting on that same pink velve

armchair, he stretches out an arm to welcom

the evening buzz: This i s the new Valletta

First stop on the street at

No. is Trabuxu, Vallettas

first wine bar. Descend into the

centuries-old stone cellar, with

its brass musical instruments

and contemporary art, for

inexpensive home-cooked food

and over different wines.

trabuxu.com.mt

If whisky is your thing, there is

a choice of nearly varieties

down the road at The Whisky

Bar. With the atmosphere of a

student hang-out circa ,

this friendly place has the

StrEat Bistro at the back servingdelicious Mediterranean food.

facebook.com/streatwhisk y

Recently opened by two

sisters from a well-known

local restaurant family,

Palazzo Precaoffers Maltese

and Mediterranean cuisine

and is popular with

locals for Sunday lunch.

palaz zoprecavalletta .com

Tico Tico(pictured above)

harks back to the old StraitStreet, while still being a key

part of the new Valletta. All

types of drinks are served,

along with a Spanish-inspired

food menu (the seafood platter,

, comes with a free glass of

wine). Drinkers spill out onto

the pedestrianised street.

BAR CRAWL ON

STRAIT STREET

THE CITY GATE IS DUE TO

FINISHED IN SEPTEM


PHOTOSBYRAHELWEISS


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A.The Bulgarian

Where should you go for abeach holiday this summer?Q.

rowned by the popular sandy shores

of Sunny Beach, Bulgarias Black Sea

Coast nearly km long comes

alive in the summer months. Featuring the

vibrant port of Bourgas, historic Nessebar

and the busy resort of Varna not to mention

more beaches which stretch between

Romania and Turkey the countrys eastern

seaboard has plenty to offer sunseekers.

Your points of entry are the main hubs

of Bourgas or Varna, sitting at either end

of the coast from Sunny Beach. Fancy

partying with the fast crowd at the Ministry

of Sound, flying in especially for the

occasion? How about making a big splash

with the family at Aqua Paradise? Or even

hunting vampire remains in a ,-year-old

town? Throughout the summer, theres a

colourful array of attractions and activities

that make this part of Eastern Europe perfect

for a holiday. Still need inspiration? Read on

for our top reasons to book a beach break

to the Bulgarian Black Sea Coast.

C



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Black Sea CoastAnd here are our reasons whyWords byPeterjon Cresswell



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BULGAR IA

Bubbles on the Beach

Saturday nights at the Guava

Beach Club mean one thing: the

big foam party on Sunny Beach.

At the height of the summer

season, , partygoers flock

to this superclub every weekend.

As well as its famous wet and

wild parties, Guava is also known

for its Totally Summer DJ nights,

held every Wednesday. But youcan also head here during the

day to enjoy the barbecue grill.

Rest up from the night before

by lazing in a beach hammock,

sipping a cocktail or even

trying the shisha pipes.

guavabeachclub.eu

Dine at Neptun Restaurant

The prime contemporary

restaurant and lounge bar in

Bourgas, Neptun occupies a

classic s building with

wonderful views across the bea

and Black Sea. The tables

over two floors give diners a

panoramic view of the water,

while in the kitchen, head chef

Katya Kondieva puts th at daysfresh fish and local market

produce to good use. By night,

you can sip classic cocktails or

the best Bulgarian wines at the

equally stylish Bar Neptun, whi

offers live music and DJs all

summer. neptunburgas.com

Strand Summer Fun

On the outskirts of Bourgas,

the new Strand Leisure Centre

is laying on a whole summer

of family-friendly activities.

These include go-kart racing,

soccer training at the Little

Star indoor football club and

glow-in-the-dark mini golf.

There are also light shows,

interactive games using thebiggest screen in Bulgaria, and

the D Cinema, where water, fir e

and wind provide an immersive

experience. Daytime fun for kids

is broken down into four age

groups, from Leaping Frogs to

Cheeky Monkeys. strand.bg

Head for the Hills

While most holidaymakers will

be heading to the Bulgarias Black

Sea Coast to relax on its golden,

sandy shores, more intrepid

travellers might prefer to leave

their swimwear at home and

pack hiking boots instead.

This region is home to hundreds

of kilometres of walking trails,

with plenty for all abilities.Just over an hours drive from

Bourgas is the Strandja Nature

Park, which offers a number o f

easy, well-marked walking routes

(try the Marina River eco trail),

ranging from km to km.

strandja.bg


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Sand Sculpture Festival

Every year, the worlds most

accomplished sand artists come to

Bourgas to create beautiful beach

sculptures. Last year, you could

have encountered such diverse

famous people as naturalist

Charles Darwin and director

Quentin Tarantino in sand form.

This years theme is fairy tales,

though it extends beyond SnowWhiteand Cinderellato popular

characters from The Flintstones

and Ice Age. The artists use ,

tonnes of rain-proof sand for

their creations. Youll find the

figures around Ezero Park until

September. sandfestburgas.com

A Diving Adventure

You dont have to travel to the

Red Sea for excellent diving the

Bulgarian Black Sea Coast has

some fantastic options. Kamen

Bryag, Rusalka, Cape Kaliakra and

Iailata feature shipwrecks (some

, years old), underwater

caves and an abundance of marine

life you may spot flounder,

sea dragons or even a BlackSea shark if youre very lucky.

Choose a PADI-accredited dive

operator such as Angel Divers

(angel-divers.com) operating out

of Nessebar, or Harrys Diving

Centre (goldensands.bg) at the

Golden Sands Resort.

Discover Ancient Sozopol

Its charming Old Town was

declared a conservation area in

, and offers plenty of shops,

art galleries, bars and restaurants.

But Sozopol, near Bourgas, is

, years old, and its main

attraction is the spate of recent

archeological finds. In ,

researchers found the remains

of John the Baptist. The relicsare at the St Cyril and Methodist

Church and attract thousands of

pilgrims every year. And in ,

excavations at an old monastery

uncovered two skeletons with

stakes through their hearts,

hinting at a vampire connection.

BULGAR IA

Splash Out at Aqua Paradise

Youll find more than

attractions at Aqua Paradise,

the biggest water park in the

Balkans, including ,m-worth

of slides! Recent additions includ

the m-long chute from the

parks new towers to its ancient

castle, and the dreaded Spiral,

m of rapid plunge (at nine

metres a second yikes!), twistinround and round to the Pearl of

the Orient Island. Theres also a

childrens castle, with a playgrou

and puppet show, a pirate ship

with a stage for live entertainmen

and a spa at Paradise Island.

aquaparadise-bg.com

Wizz Air flies to Varna and Bourgas.

Book online at wizzair.com or

download the Wizz Air app.


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P R O M O T I O NP R O M O T I O N

Founded close to , years ago, Sofia boasts more than its fair share

of historical and cultural attractions to go with its stunning location,

close to Vitosha mountain, where you can ski in winter and hike allthrough the summer. But its also home to a dazzling array of modern

and sleek venues where you can enjoy a perfectly mixed cocktail,

a memorable dinner and comfortable surroundings in which to lay

your head at night.

The locations listed here represent some of the citys brightest

hotspots this summer whether youre after authentic food made

from the freshest produce or a cool spot to hang out as the sun sets.

All of them speak to Sofias growing reputation as a vibrant city

worthy of a visit, where luxury and style go hand-in-hand with

culture and tradition.

A guide to picking the most elegant and

stylish places to wine, dine and spend the

night in the beautiful Bulgarian Capital

SUMMER

IN SOFIA

Raffy Bar & GelatoLocated on Sofias thriving main street, Raffy Bar and

Gelato is a buzzing hotspot both day and night. During

the daylight hours, Raffy Bar and Gelato boasts a

sophisticated, welcoming atmosphere. Their first-rate

kitchen prepares from fresh the delicious menu of

desserts, pizzas and a range of meat and vegetable

dishes. The famous selection of handmade ice creams

has made them a firm favourite in Sofia.

The evenings are spent enjoying the best drinks

and cocktails on the Sofia nightlife scene while making

the most of the affordable prices. The Terrace Bar,

completely renovated with a stylish modern interior

and updated sound system, continues to attract hip

locals and tourists each evening with a fantastic varietyof music and live performances that differ in style every

day. For the full listings, check out the Raffy Terrace Bar

Facebook page.

B&G: 11 Angel St, +359 895 51 50 45

18B Vitosha Blvd, +359 895 51 50 41

Terrace: 2nd floor, 18B Vitosha Blvd, +359 892 21 85 88

facebook.com/raffybargelato

facebook.com/RaffyTerassaBar


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P R O M O T I O

Leos PizzaPizza-lovers will adore the wood-fired meals served up at Leos Pizza in

downtown Sofia. The tranquillity of Maleva tennis club is the perfect

environment to enjoy traditional Italian fare pasta, beef and, of course,

pizza at Leos Pizza and Trattoria. Start your day with a cappuccino and

croissant at Leos Caff, before returning later for a delicious apritif.

Leos Pizza: 11 Iskar St; +359 29801145

Leos Pizza and Trattoria: 57 Nikola Vapzarov St; +359 28624819

Leos Caff: 38 Cherkovna St; +359 884124361

Hotel L do RadoAt the foot of Vitosha mountain, in one of the most beautiful areas of

Sofia, lies the Hotel L do Rado. The three-star hotel is just minutes

from the business centre of Sofia and minutes from the airport,

making it ideal for both business and pleasure. Winner of the prestigious

Boutique Hotel award, its rooms are elegantly designed. Also on

offer is a stylish lobby bar and restaurant with a charming garden.

kv. Gorublyane 16 Tsvetna gradina St., Sofia

+359 2 441 5410, l-do-rado.com

Il Viaggio Ristorante

Enjoy contemporary Mediterranean cuisine at Il Viaggio Ristora

wizz august 2014

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