“Women Empowerment through Education and Training in Garment Technology”

A Case Study of women empowerment through Education & Training in garment Technology

A Success StoryDr.N.V.R.Nathan

Sr Advisor

Everonn Skill Development Limited.

nvrnathan@gmail.com

The Beginning made in • District : East Godavari in the State of

Andhra Pradesh ( India)• Population : 48.72 Lakhs ( 4.87

Million)• Year : 2002 -2003

Choosing the Beneficiaries• No Of Villages: 263 Villages

• No Of Clusters: 52

• No Of Women Targeted to Cover 13,500

• Period of Training 75 days Per Group of 40

• Training On Modular basis.

• Implementing Agency District Rural Development Agency (DRDA) & National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Hyderabad.

Funding Pattern• Government of India/Government of

Andhra Pradesh

• Micro Finance by National Bank for Agriculture and Rural Development (NABARD)

• Project Concept

NVR Nathan,NIFT,Hyderabad.

Project Cost• Rs.2500 lakh Rupees ( $250 Million)• Cost of Infrastructure :Rs.850 Lakhs ( $85

Million)• State Government Funding :Rs.825 lakhs ( $82.50

Million)• NABARD Loan :Rs.825 Lakhs ( $82.50

Million)

• 13,500 women organized into 680 Self Help

Groups each having a Minimum of 10 members.

PHASES OF TRAINING PROGRAMME • Module on Men’s Wear, Women’s Wear,

Children’s Wear,• Ethnic Wear, Block Printing & Tie and Dye

Technique, Embroidery and Embellishments.

The groups were trained in any one Module depending on the skill and interest of the participating trainee. This was to ensure that no competition develops within group but together they compliment one another.

The New Management Mantra • Don’t just Teach them how to Fish ;

Also Train them how to market it.

The Strategy• NIFT Selected 52 Students from its one

year Certificate Program of Comprehensive Program in Fashion & Clothing (CPFC) from Andhra Pradesh. Certain Master Tailors were also inducted as Trainers.

• One month “Train the Trainers” program was imparted to this Group.

• Each Trainer was put in Charge of one Training Centres opened in each of the (52) Mandals ( Clusters)identified by DRDA & NIFT.

Training The

Trainers

Infrastructure• Each of the 52 Training centres were

equipped with 15-20 State of Art Juki Industrial Sewing Machine, certain specialised Machines such as Buttoning Machine,Collar Fusing machine, Bulk Cutting Machine, besides equipping them with Pattern Making Tables and raw material for stitching, embroidery, tie and dye and accessories that are used in most export houses.

What Was Achieved?• About 3800 SHG women have completed

the Training and grouped into 20 Mutually Aided Co-operative Societies (MACS) under the State Act and have established 3 Common Facilities Centres (CFCs) with full fledged Production Facilities and have turned themselves into entrepreneurs producing High quality Ready to Wear Garments with their registered Brand name, viz., “eg” and “gauthami”.

Marketing Tie-up• Large Retail Chains like Shopper’s

Stop, Pantaloon Group, Big Bazaar, Lifestyle etc., have been placing orders on these MACS formed by the Trained SHGs through an MOU to support the NIFT and Government Initiatives with a Social Objective. Each MACS is geared up to produce around 60,000 garments a month priced on an average of Rs.130 ($3).

Current Status...

Several State Government have set up APEX Body to assist the groups in Marketing. The Government of India supports funding for Training and Skill up gradation through NGO’sEducational Institutes and Charitable trusts such as AMRITA VISWA VIDYAPEETH.

The Present • These MACS have elected from

among themselves a President,Vice-President, Secretary, and office bearers who run the day to day functioning of the Enterprise.These functionaries have been further trained for one month each on accounting, marketing, Institutional selling etc., and take care of participation in Fairs & Exhibitions to market their Brand.

Self Help Groups Participating in Buyer Seller’s Meet at The Apparel Summit.

Some of the Products made by Tribal Craftsmen and marketed by APCO & Lepakshi Emporia

NOW…..• These Group of trained women have

been now undergoing training on Environmental and Ecological issues beside Sanitation and Cleanliness. Metamorphosis from being merely domestic help to now “Entrepreneurs” in the family, these women are finding a better status at home and in the society.

The Future• This has been one of the seven such

Cluster Development projects undertaken in Andhra Pradesh out of which 3 are in exclusive Tribal area and are also infested by Naxalites. While none dared to enter these areas, NIFT, students, faculty and trainers worked and transformed the lives of several thousands of people. These experiments are being attempted to be replicated in all the other six States of Karnataka, Tamilnadu, West Bengal, Maharastra, Utter Pradesh and Gujarat later by NIFT where it has it’s presence.

From Here…..• Educational Institutions, Industrial &

Business Houses can play an active role in empowering the rural population by aiding skill up gradation through Training and Design Intervention that can eventually change the quality of life. Network Marketing and E-commerce can remove several barriers to Marketing.

How to go further• Everonn Shall take primary responsibility

to network and enter into MOU with state government.

• Everonn Shall consult the Commissioner of Handlooms' and Handicraft advice and work with select Co-operatives with support from corporate houses and Philanthropists help and provide both design & Colour concept that are commercially saleable and in tune with fashion forecast initially in Tamilnadu, AP & Karnataka and gradually network other states.

Contd…….• Everonn will closely co-ordinate with

the Collector & Commissioner of Handlooms & Textiles to locate a suitable agencies and freelance designers to assist in designing of Merchandise that could communicate the rich heritage and culture of India.

COORDINATION REQUIRED

• Liaison between the organization, Government and other agencies etc.

• Recommending authority for extending benefits under Government Schemes

• Everonn will act as Facilitator in the growth and development of the organization to support Investors/Entrepreneurs/Ebay.

Contd….• A Virtual Retail Showroom which is self

service oriented created with Ebay.

• A Virtual Retail Showroom that has enticing section that is world class.

The Ebay Home Furnishing Range

Contd…..?• A strategic MOU with Handloom Cooperatives

societies and Handicraft Societies to offer exclusively Designed Merchandise for Ebay / Big bazzar, Shopper’s Stop....

SPRINGSkills Program for Inclusive Growth

Presentation by

Dr.NVR Nathan

What is SPRING?• It is a large scale and demand

driven skills training and placement programs, particularly for BPL families

• It is aimed to benefit the BPL youths from the growing economy while also benefitting the employing industries by providing them skilled manpower at a minimal cost

• It is managed by IL&FS Cluster Development Initiatives Ltd (ICDI) and supported by the Ministry of Rural Development, Government of India and the Garments & Apparel Industry

Context• The Indian textiles and clothing industry is

poised to achieve a turnover of US$85 billion by 2010,

• However, gap in the demand and the supply of skilled manpower is expected to be 2 million by 2010.

• The present institutional structure is inadequate to meet this huge shortage of skilled manpower, both in quantitative and qualitative terms.

• Also, with economy growing at a rate of 9% per annum, there is a need to ensure that this growth is inclusive, in order to have positive impact on poverty levels.

• As apparel industry employs people at shop floor level with low levels of education and skills, specifically suited for women, there can be convergence between the requirement of skilled manpower for apparel industry and poverty alleviation objective of the Government.

• This possibility of convergence has led to the birth of SPRING!

Objectives & Targets

• Objectives

To meet the skill requirements of the apparel industry and to create gainful employment opportunities for rural BPL families in apparel industry through Public Private Partnership

• Target

To train and place 5 lakh rural BPL youth in the next 5 years

• Our first initiative within the larger vision of SPRING

• ‘Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Program (ISMOP)’- our first training product within SEAM

Skills for Employment in Apparel ManufacturingSPRING

SEAM

ISMOP

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Training Program- FEATURES• Imparts basic skills necessary to become a shop floor

level operator, so that the initial wages are at least equal to the prescribed minimum wages

• 1-month duration – includes 100+ hours practical work on Industry standard Juki & Pegasus machines

• Multi-media Training Content, developed with Industry input, to meet global best practices

• Modules include Basics of Sewing Operations; Sewing machine folders and attachments; specific product related modules

• Also focuses on the softer side of the training, e.g., health & hygiene, social security, self-management, workplace etiquette, group/team behavior etc

• Customizable training content to meet the specific

needs of a given cluster or any large scale employer.

• Assured placement for every trainee. Pre-requisite of the program is the commitment of the industry to employ the trained persons

• Is being conducted in various states under which 30,000 rural BPL youth will be trained and placed in the industry on a pilot basis

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Training Program- OPERATIONAL NORMS• Training is conducted in two batches

from 8am to 8pm.

• Each batch has 32 machines and equal number of students

• Each batch will undergo daily 6 hours of training for one month

• The training shall be conducted on all the days in a month, except Sunday

Who could be a Trainee?• Men and women in the age

group of 18-30 years

• At least 5th/8th class pass

• From rural BPL families as per the list maintained by the District Rural Development Agency of the concerned district

• Willing and committed to join as sewing machine operators soon after the training is over

• Preferably, 1/3rds of the trainees to be women

Selection of the Trainees• They under-go finger

dexterity, eye-hand coordination, and color blindness tests before they are short-listed to participate

• The selection of the trainees shall be done in the presence of a four member team comprising of the representatives of the employer, DRDA / Panchayat, IL&FS CDI and Training Partner

• Selection takes place before the training

From where We can get Trainees?• Candidates

sponsored by DRDAs/PRI institutions

• Candidates sponsored by industry

• Open interviews

Course ContentMODULE 1

Introduction to Sewing Machines Theory

MODULE 2

Working on Machines – Dos and Donts

Theory/ Practical

MODULE 3

Basics of Machine Operations Practical

MODULE 4

Attaching Needles & threads Practical

MODULE 5

Different kinds of Sewing Theory/ Practical

MODULE 6

Work sheets Practical

MODULE 7

Aids for Sewing Practical

MODULE 8

Stitch Formation Practical

MODULE 9

Sewing Skills on Fabrics Theory/ Practical

MODULE 10

Construction of Men's Shirts - assembly

Theory/ Practical

MODULE 11

Construction of Men's Trousers- assembly

Theory/ Practical

MODULE 12

Construction of Men's Polo shirts – Knits

Theory/ Practical

MODULE 13

Team Building, Motivation, Attitude

Theory/ Group Exercise

MODULE 14

Self management, Stress control Theory/ Group Exercise

MODULE 15

Social Security, savings & insurance

Theory/ Group Exercise

MODULE 16

Health & Hygiene – Work place requirement , Family Planning & Awareness of HIV/AIDS

Theory/ Group Exercise

On-training Assessment • Trainees are assessed

weekly through a process developed by Methods Workshop, South Africa

• On completion of the program trainees’ proficiency standard is checked and they are certified accordingly

Training Accreditations

•NCVT

•JUKI

•Methods Workshop Apparel India Pvt Ltd (South Africa)

Technology Support• Juki (Japan)

• Pegasus (Singapore)

• IIGM (Bangalore)

• IETS (Mumbai)

• GTZ (Germany)

Who are our Trainers • Minimum educational qualification of pass in

Higher Secondary (10+2) or ITI trade certificate after 10th or equivalent (Diploma holder/ Graduates desirable)

• Minimum two years work experience in garment industrial activity or in the garment training institute as trainer

• Know how to sew garment independently using various industrial machines

• Knowledge of power driven sewing machines and safety requirements

• Knowledge of measurements of garments

• Knowledge of fabrics (desirable)

• Knowledge of Pattern making/cutting/draping (desirable)

• Aptitude to train people

• Good motivator & Team Player

• Willingness to learn

Training of Trainers (TOT)• Four week TOT is

given to all the trainers before they act as trainers for the program

• ILFS CDI/APPTEX arranges for the TOT

• Done in technical collaboration with IIGM/Juki and ILFS ETS

• Done to ensure standard and uniformity

Basic Requirements of a Training Center• Building – covered area 2000 sq

ft

• Machines & Equipment

• Multi-media teaching aids and learning material Qualified & Experienced Trainers

• Power, Water & Restroom Facilities

• Lighting & Ventilation

• Consumables (cloth, thread, clippers, paper)

Framework of the Training Program

Process Flow Chart of the Program

By SPV/TPs/PEs/ DRDA/PRIs

By SPV

Placement

Need Analysis of the industry for skilled manpower/Identification of prospective Employer

Identification of Training Partners

Identification of potential catchments area

Identification of BPL trainees in the identified catchment area

Screening & selection of the trainees

Training of the trainees

Examination & Certification

By TPs/PEs supported by SPV

By SPV/TPs/PEs/ Certification

Partners

PEs/Industry facilitated by SPV

Stakeholders• BPL Trainees

• DRDAs/Panchayats

• Seeking Industries

• Training Partners

• IL&FS CDI represented by APPTEX (a Special Purpose Vehicle Company instituted for the purpose)

• Ministry of Rural Development

Who could be our Training Partners?Agencies

• having aptitude and capability to conduct training as per set standards

• which share the vision and mission of this national skills development initiative

• Which are ready to assist in creating awareness of this program among the target BPL population

• which can ensure the participation and attendance of the selected trainees for training

• which can engage and deploy qualified trainers (who would be specially trained by IL&FS CDI /APPTEX)

• which can do necessary administrative work to ensure and achieve training objectives

Potential Training Partners

Training Centers

State Government Institutions

Institutions attached with Ministry of Textiles

NGOs/ Private institutions

Industry Associations

ITIs, Polytechnics

ATDCs/ WSCs/ PSCs

Pvt Engg Colleges/ polytechnics/Training Institutions

TEA

Individual Apparel Entrepreneurs

Training Partners

Potential Industry Partners• Garment and Apparel

Manufacturers

• Garment and Apparel Exporters

• Knitwear Industries

Role of ILFS CDI/APPTEXTHROUGH ALL OPTIONS OF COLLABORATION

• Provide Machinery and equipment

• Provide Teaching aids and learning material

• Conduct Train-the Trainers (TOT) to prepare faculty

• Facilitate interface with Govt. Departments and Rural Development agencies – for identification of space and identification of target group

• Facilitate job placement of trainees after completion of course

• An amount of Rs.2000 as stipend to the trainees. Out of this Rs.500 to be spent towards travel and refreshments of the trainees by providing bus passes, lunch coupons etc. Remaining Rs. 1500 to be paid after one month of employment. However, this can be customized to meet the local conditions of the training centers

Training Cost• The cost of training 5 lakh persons over next

5 years is estimated to be Rs. 8,174 per person ( $ 210)

• The GOl (Ministry of Rural Development) would share Rs.5000 ( $110)per person out of special SGSY projects

• The recruiting industry would pay Rs. 1500 per trainee ( $40).

• ILFS CDI/APPTEX manages the remaining amount of Rs. 1674 ($ 60)through licensing of multi-media content to private commercial training institutes as well as cross-subsidy from any surplus for training of persons from ABL families who may opt to pay for their training.

Envisaged Benefits to the Industries• Gets skilled and internationally

accredited manpower at a bare minimum cost of Rs. 1500/- ( $40) per incumbent which results in

–Less of faults, damage, and wastage of material

–Time efficiency and higher resource utilization

–Higher production rate

–Higher quality and standard

–Professional work environment

• These together more than cover the investment made

Efforts and Achievements so far….

List of Scheduled Training Centers (All India Basis)

SN Training Partner Name Location State Status of MOU

1 KARMA CONSULTANTS Muzaffarpur Bihar Signed

2 Northern India Textile Research Association Meerut Dist Uttar Pradesh Signed

3 Gujarat Eco Textile Park Ltd Pandesara - Surat Gujarat Signed

4 Metro Hi-tech Park - Ichalkaranji Kolhapur Dist Maharashtra Signed

5 Koyyana Educational & Welfare Trust Gajuwaka - Vizag Andhra Pradesh Signed

6 Steadfast Apparels Pvt. Limited Jillelaguda - RR Dist Andhra Pradesh Signed

7 NIFT - TEA - Tirupur Odakadu - Tirupur Tamilnadu signed

8 Center for Rural Development - Sivaganga Sivaganga Dist Tamilnadu Signed

9 Corporate Alliance for Social Initiatives (CASI) Karur Dist Tamilnadu Signed

10 Madurai Integrated Textile Park Limited - Kappalur Madurai Dist Tamilnadu Signed

11 Ambattur Clothing Company - Chennai Tiruvallur Dist Tamilnadu Signed

12 SKAT India Clothing Pvt Ltd - Arumbakkam Chennai Dist Tamilnadu Signed

13 Bangalore Institute of Fashion Technology Bilekahalli Village Karnataka Signed

14 Mandavya Institute of Apparel Training Center Bommanahalli Karnataka Signed

15 Shahi Exports Hulimavu Village Karnataka Signed

Training Centers (2nd Phase)Region State No. of Training Centers

Northern Region Gurgoan – Haryana 1

Faridabad, Haryana 1

Gaziabad - UP 1

Noida, UP 1

Total Northern Region (4)

Western Region Ahmedabad - GUJ 1

Tarapur - MAH 1

vapi - GUJ 1

Pithampur - MP 1

Total Western Region (4)

Eastern Region Bhubaneshwar - ORISSA 1

Kolkata - WB 1

Total Eastern Region (2)

Southern Region Andhra Pradesh 2

Kerala 1

Karnataka 2

Total Southern Region (5)

Grand Total   15

Important Milestones so far• 65 no. of training centers

operational

• 33000 Below Poverty Line Persons trained

• 32500 trainees recruited by Industry

• 104 industry partners participating

• 12 states covered in India

• www.ilfs-spring.com

Way Forward• If a partnership is of mutual

interest , a due diligence process is initiated.

• An agreement is signed between IL&FS CDI Ltd and the Training Partner

• A Placement demand is identified and commitment confirmed from the prospective industries

• Trainers are identified and participate in the TOT

• Trainee-candidates are identified with DRDA assistance

• Machines are ordered and Centre made ready for operations

• A Model that can be replicated in all developing country.