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$2.50 NOTES FROM THE SHOP NO. 26

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Woodsmith Magazine - 026

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Page 1: Woodsmith - 026

•$2.50NOTES FROM THE SHOPNO. 26

Page 2: Woodsmith - 026

V.'OOOSMITH2

router table.just send $1 and we'Jlj!et itinthe mail to you.

SOURCES. Starting "ith this issue, we'readding a new regular (""lure to Wood·$I/Iith; 8 "Seurees" page. This page is anattempt to give complete information onthe tools and hardware needed for theprojects in each issue.As space permits, we'll also use this

page to include references to a varlet)' ofgeneral source information: mail-ordercatalogs, books, shows and exhibits; aswellas localwoodworking clubs and storesthat specialize in hardwood.\Ve'U be dependent on you for some of

this information (particularly the clubs andstores in your •• 't?1I). Steve Krohmer hasvolunteered (that means no increase inpay) to manage all this information.To start things off, we thought we'd

tOUt'CLinformation on woodworking clubsaround the country. Ifyou belong to a clubor guild, and would like other wood.workers in your area to know about it. letSteve know.:<EWf·ACt:S. ~likc Scott has joined our

group to help write and edit the articles inn'uoo$mith. Besides woodworking, his"other love" is musk. and he's managed to •combine both passions by refinishing sev-eral grand pianos.Mike's first project here was to build the

antique wall mirror (featured on thecover). Then I learned another one of hi.hobbies is photography. So now he's orga­nizing a new photo studio and taking thepictures. (As time goes on. I hope to saddlehim with more and more tasks.)

THE &JAILINGLAJJ£L. \Ve've decided tochange the mailing label a little. \Ve usedLOput the dille of the last issue in the upperright·hand corner o( the label. Startingwith this issue, we're putting the iS8idn'HI.btr of the last issue you shouldreceive. This should give a better idea ofwhen your subscription will expire (andwhen you have to send more money).

l'o'U)IOt;R0:01£ISBACK. In addition to thelabel. we've also changed the protectivecover. And in the process we brought oldissue No. I back to life.A few months ago I dropped it from the

back issue offer because I wasn't com­pletely happy with the d"~ign and con­srruetion technique» 1I""1l for lh" TrestleTable in that i"_ue. Then one ofour readerswrute us to say that w.c ~h"u1dalway> keepthat i""ue around. , • if only til n'mind usto do better in the future. So. i",b:tck. andwe're trying to do better •:>O'EXT~L\ILING. The next issue of Wood·

smith should be in the mail dUring thewI!(>k of June 6. 1983

ISSN: 0164-411.

WOODSM1llI1s pubflShedbimonthly(January,March. May. July. September. November) byWoodsmllhPublishingCompany, 1912 GrandAva.. Des MoIoes. Iowa 50309WOOOSMITH Is a reglsletod trademarl<of theWoodsmlthPubfishingCompany.. Copyright 1983 by Woodsmllh PublishingCompany.ADRighls Reserved.Subscrlplfons: One year (6 Issues) S10. Twoyea's (12.ssoos) $18. Single copy price. 52.60(Canade and Foreign add 52 per year.)Change Of Address: Please be sure 10Indudeboth your old and new addrass tor change 01addfess Ma~to:Woodsm.th. 1912GrandAve..Des MOines. Iowa 50309.Second cia .. postage paid al Des MoInes.Iowa.Postma.ter: Send change 01address notice.Form 3579. to Woodsrnlth PublIShingCo., 1912Grand Ave. Des Moines, lowe 50309

BACK ISSUES

A lIStof the con!4nt$ of all back Issues appearson the wre,pperof this Issue. n Ule wrapper Is_ng. you can send lor • bookie I descnblngUle contents and pnoos of all bad< ISsues

SAMPLE COPlES

t!you have a fneoo who ",,,uJej Iilte 10s""" copyofWoodamlth.JUst send thenameand address,and we11send a sample (at no cost).

eclltorDonald B. p...,hke

Design DlreetorTed Kralicek

Assis1an1 EditorsSteve KIOhmerMichael seen

Gre,phlcDes!gnersDavid KreyllngMarcia SImmons

Sul)sc;rlPuonManage,Sandy J. Baum

SubscnpllOnAssIsI8nIsChristel MinerVicky RobinsonJaCkie SlToudShirley FellmanPam Dickey

Compuler OperationSKen Miner

Admlrustratlvs AssistanlCheryl seen

ABOL'TTillS ISSI)£. I tend to vie" cabinet­making as a series of connected steps; eachstep important and each leading toward agoal. \Vhile the goal might be to build anice-looking. functional cabinet, com­pleting that gOldi~ not the real reward ofwoodworking.To c'lioy woodworking you have to en­

joy the steps along the way - the processand the detail. \Vhen the process is com­pleted (and the goal is reached), the re­ward is simply the satisfaction of knowingthe care and patience thaL it took to makeall the details work to!l(eLher.

Okay Don, what's the point of all thiswonder(uJ philosophy?It has to do with the Curio Cabinet in

this issue. "It's a handsome cabinet, butI'm not sure I could build it." That was thereaction ofthe newest addltion to our staff.~1ikeScott.But Mike was at a disadvantage. He first

saw the curio cabinet when it was com­pleted. and r admit that it tends to look alittle intimidating,1was more fortunate. I saw the building

process - all the individual steps I took asI IV9$ building the cabinet. When it'.broken down into step. like that, It's notintimidating. It's just a lot of work.The key to most of this work is the

joinery .pecifically making a mortise andtenon joint. And here again, it's all thedetail. that make the di(ference. Eacbjoint is like a small project in itself ... a lotof individual step" that lead to one goal.Yet once this joint is assembled, no one

will ever see it. Only you ,,;11 know tbat itlits just right and that it will lust a longtime ... secretly doing its job. That's thereal reward of woedwcrking.ROlTIn .""IITAKI.E SAW.[fyou've been

reading lI'ooo8mith for a while, you knowthat the two basic power tools we use are atable saw and router. These two tools,coupled with a drill press (to cut somemortises). are all that's required to buildany o( the projects in this issue.That's nice. but what's the point o(men­

tioning lt~It's JUSt that I'm constantly amazed at

what you can do with a few basic tools. Forexample. all o( the fancy moldings on theprojects in this issue were made with "couple of standard router bits and a router••. mounted to a router table, o( COUI'S(1.

So once again. I'm giving the old salespitch for building a router table. \It reallyis helpful to make these moldings.) Theplan. for our version o( a router tableappeared in Woodsmirh No. 20 (and thestand was in No. 22). Or. if you want Rsix-page plan booklet for the Il'oodsmif/.

MarJApr., 1983Number 26•Sawdust

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3WOODSMlTH

II YOU'dlike 10share 8woodw""'ing tipWilhothOfreaders 0' Woodsmlth. send your idea to'Woodsmflh. TIps & Teclmlques. 19.2 GrandAve.. 0 .. MOInes, lOw. 50309.We pay aminrmumof$10 torllp$. and $'50r

more for $peCIaltecMiques (illal a'e acceptedto< publicallOn). Please give. completeexplana·lion of yom Idea II a sketch Is needed, send Italong; we'U draw • new one

S£ND IN YOUR IDlAS

Kenneth. Gyl<lc"",,"dDes Moi71".~.Iowa

straight bit on the route.' table to CUt thegroove.To make the adjustable heads. Cut the

shoulders of the dovetails (on the routertable I so that they're slightly closertogether than needed to fit over the beam.Then remove the waste between the dove­tails to fonn a large dO"clail w·oov~. (Byremoving this waste. r could actually testthe heads against the beam fOI'[mal flt.)fiuaUy. th. distance between the dove­tails is widened until it fiLSon the beam.After the heads are cut. 1/," holes are

drilled forlocking bolts tI used a V.x IV.carriage boil). Then Imade two holdingbrackets with custom- fit grooves to hold.pencil in one bracket, and a trammel pointin the other. (The trammel point is madeby grinding a sharp point on a #8 finish nailwith the head removed.)Finally, I used a chamfer bit on the

router table to take 011 the corners (If allthe edge:<.To finish this beam compass, Iused \Vateo danish oil, and 3 couple of coatsof Wateo satin W8.'<.

OCAMfEIt CAI.1AG ffOGES I(N.T

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dovetail grooves on the outside edges ofthe beam. To do this, I .imply used adovetail bit in the router table (S<'<! Wood·lft,,;tlt No. 20).Tbe next step is to cut 8 ¥..."-\\'ide

stopped groove (centered on the beam) toattach the adju.table heads. To mark thestarting and stopping points "fthis grUllve.I drilled two t,' holes, centered I" fromboth end, oC the beam. Then I used a

SDITOR'S NOTE: For more ifljontlalioflOJI Cllfti"g mortise and tentms, see pugtS7-11. lInd for a ",,';81U of mortisillg bits.",cited",!! routerbits. seepogr~.

used to cut a groove along the piece toaccept a panel.This method may be of some value to

those "router nuts" who want more infor­mation on how to use the router.

Jerry Schlltllcrl\'i"QtlU •. If i)t'llesoitl

screwed to the side of one of the 2x4'~.Then the piece being mortised is placed

between the 2x4'~ tbutted against the spa­cer. and nush with th~ top edge), and theWhole arrangement is clamped tojtethersandwich style. Cl clamp the end with thespacer block in a vise. and the oppo.;it(!endwith a C-clamp.)To cut the mortise, I use a router

equipped with an edge guide that ride, onthe outside of the 2x4's. and n router hitthat's .Iightly smaller than the mortis se.After the length of tbe mortise is

marked out. J make the first cut usjng oneside of the fixture Ill; a guide. And then.without changing the setting on the edgeguide, Imake another cut using the op­posite side of the fixture for the guide. Thisassures that the mortise \\;11 be exact I"centered on the stock, .if more than one identical mortise is to

be cut. a set of stops can be tacked to thetop of the fixture. This set-up can also be

BEAMCOMPASS

There are times when I've needed a larger f----------------lcompass than is commercially available. Tosolve this problem. Imade a simple. and f----------------lvery functional beam compass that ineor­porates a sliding dovetail joint. By using' asliding dovetail, the head, of the compasscan be easily adjusted along the beam,while automat ically remaining at a 90'angle to the beam.To make the compass, Iused. piece or

... oak, 2" wide, and 36' long (any lengthwill work). Then the first step is to cut

ROUTERCUT MORTISES

Ihave an idea for those readers of Wood·smith who want to make exactly centeredmortises, but who don't have a drill press.1use a simple jig and a router.To make the jig, I trimmed two 2<1'8 to

exactly the same thickness. Then I cut.spacer to exactly the same thickness as thepiece bei ng mortised. This spacer is

JOhll H. AletzgrrPort \4'oshillyt.m, Ohiu

COMMON CALIPERS

I tame 3C'J"OSS an idea while I was turningforty identical spindles for a swingingcradle that may be of some help to someoneelse. To keep the diameter of the roundtenons on the ends of each spindle con­sistant, I used open-end wrenches as agauge, rather than the outside calipers.First I turned the tenons with a gouge

close to the right size, Then 1used a part­ing tool to trim the tenon down to size untilthe respective wrench would slide over thetenon as it was turning. Often with a littlepressure, the ends on the opening of thewraneh would actually cut the tenon downto the exact, size.

the opposite corner with the band sawblade. Then Imake the diagonal cut about1/,' deep. and rotate the stock to repeat tbeCUl between the remaining t\VO comers.The center is marked where the two cuts

cross, and the v.' diagonal cuts also pro­vide a good seat for the spurs.

Robm IV. Zil!9l~WhIte" Haren; Flu/ida

fiNDING CENTERON SPINDLE STOCK

I've been using a simple way to rmd thecenter on the ends of spindle turning stockthat might interest your readers.All I do is use the band saw to cut the

"cress- hair" slots on both ends of the stock.To do this, I position one corner of thestock in the table slot (thaCs used tochange the band saw blad.:;). &l.d line up

__ T_~s& Technigu_e_s __

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WOODSMITH4

______D__i~by_C_~ _IT'S EASY,NO SPOOLING

Maybe I'm [ust behind the the side pieces, plus Yi' for thetimes, but just the other day I two V.·-Iong tengues.)learned that thread 110 longer Next. I cut a rabbet on thecomes on wooden spools. ends of the double-wide pieceNowad8vs aU thread is wound to leave a tongue that fits thearound PtMtic spools. As u re- dado in the side pieces. This issuit. wooden spools have be- the rabbet half of the rabbet!come somewhat ofa collector's dadojoint. (Although it's calleditem. And wllrthy of a display a "abbot/dado joint. the onlyC3-<;e. purpose of the rabbet is toWe've had a lot of requests leave a longue to lit in the

for plans for a small display dado. see Fig. 3_)cage for t hirnb les. pipes. Finally, Iripped the double-spoon". commemorative coins. wide piece to get the top andand small car replicas. I don't bottom pieces (B). Thesehave any of those thing», but pieces are ripped Vo" 1Iarrowerpack rat that I am. I OO"e all than the cabinet sides to allowsorts of wooden spools, So I room for the Yo' plywood back,decided this was a good oppor- NO'l'CUES FOR I1I1<Gt:S. Totunity to build a display cabinet mount the door. notches havefor them. to be cut for the hinges. But

THE BASIC BOX rather than waiting until thecabinet is assembled, I decided

The cabinet use, straight- to go ahead and cut the notchesforward box construction: the now (while the sides were stilltop and bottom are joined to easily accessible),the ~ide.with a rabbet/dado To 1<implify things, I cut •joint, and all three shelves are these notchesto a depth equaldadoes into the sides. This re- 10 tbe full thickness of thequires a total of five dadoes on knuckle of the hinges. see Fig.each .ide piece. see fig. 1. a. Then the hinge nap on theI knew these dadoes had to door frame could be surface-

line up perfectly on both side mounted (no mortise is neededpieces. But rather than trying on the door frame. refer toto cut identical dadoes on two Fig. S on page 6.).individual pieces. Icut only one THE SHELVESset of dadoes ... in one double-wide piece. Then after the da- T deeidl'(l tel make the shelvesdoes wcre cut. I could rip this for this cabinet \<:" thick sodouble-wide piece to get the they wouldn't look too bulkytwo piece. for the sides, ------------------------ and detract from the relativelyBy thL. lime, I \\'3. really getling inlo Fig. J. small collectibles. 'l'his meant resawiag

making things easy. To eliminate five indi- llAoor.s t'OR CORN'f:RJOll\'TS. Next. I cut stock ior the shelves down to II:!'thickness.vidual setups for cutting these five dadoes, the dadoes for the rabbet/dado joint (used Before resewing, cut to length the three1decided to space the dadoes for the three \0 auaeh the top. bottom and two sides of pieces of stock for the shelves. 1'0 deter­shelves equidistant frum both ends, This the cabinet). These Yo',\\ide dadoes are mine the length needed for the shelves.way. the ""I-UP for Ihe top shelf could also positioned so the bottom edge of the dado dry-assemble (noglue) the top, bottom andbe used for the bottom shelf by simply is equal to the thickness of the top.bottom two side. to form the basic shell of theflipping the piece end for end, pieces. see Fig. 3. cabinet. Then measure the distance be-To <tart this process, 1 cut the doubk~ RU' TOSIZE. After all the dadoes were tween the bottoms of the dadoes. and cut

"ide piece IS"long by 4Y,' wide. <This is a cut, Iripped the double-wide piece into thc the stock 10 this length.little wider than needed 10 allow for trim two 2"-wide side pieces (A}. Then I cut a Next, rip these three plt'('(!.l.<I IIwidth ofcuts if any chipout occurs as the dadoes Y,"-\\ide by V.·-deep rabbet on the back I·v.... (This is v.-I'".lhHn Ihe \\idth of theare cut.) edge of both sides pieces for the V.ply- sldes to allow for the ply\\'<>Odback)

OAOOESFOR SIIE(.\·ES. I cut the dadoes wood back, see Fig. 4. Finally, the three sbelves can 00 re-for the shelves first. The dadoes for the top sawed hipped on eclgelto fit tbe h dadoesand bottom shelve. an! cut3¥" from each TOP AND BOTTOM PIECES inthecabinet$ide,.It'sb<:slhereto>ellhe •end oflhe double-wide piece. And the dado This same basic procedure can be used to en 10 $lilZhtlyover \1," because you needfor the center shelf is centered on the cut lhe pieces for the top and bottom ~B). just a little extra thickness '0 the sawlength -71'<" from either end. All three of First. I cut a double-wide piece to a length mark. can be removed. II used a cabinelthese dadoes are v,' wide by vo" deep. see of 9'1,'. (This length allows for 9' between scraper tel remove the marks, but they

Page 5: Woodsmith - 026

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CUTTING DIAGRAM

A Sid<t.(2) ':Y,.x2·IS8 Topond80ttom(2) 'V".I¥.a.9thC SMlv., (3) In. 1¥...9~0 Top/S'm. PI.... (2) -::v,. x 3'1•• 11'/ ..E Ooor Stiles. (2) 'V,•• l'I.·15F Door Roil. (2) ,~. xlII ... 9';'G OecotV'tiv. SUoII (1) 'Vl.x3-8"~H PfywoodBo,k(I) \{..10·1S

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MATERIALS LIST

HOLES t'OR 001\ El.S. If this cabinet isused for spools. a series of V,"-deep holesneed to be drilled in the shelves for thepI!g>o. I used a spacing of lV.- for the small­sized spools on the top two shelves: and aIY.'" "pacing for the large spools on thebottom shelf and the bottom of'the cabinet.see Fig. 2.Pt:GS. Then the peg>; for the spools are

cut l' long. I chamfered the top edll<' ofthe.se pegs by mounting them in the drillpress (SOl at a slow Rpeedl, and u""d a file10 knock off the edge."S$E~I8I.Y_Next, the Y," plywood back

(H) i,cut to lit bot ween the rabbets in thecabinet sides, and equal to the full height ofthe cabinet.

Finally. the cabinet (lop, bottom, sides .and shelves) C31l be glued tugt:th~r, withthe plywood back lacked in place to helpkeep everything square.

TRIM PLATES

At this point the cabinet is.just a plain box.So to spice things up I added decorativetrim plates (D) to the top and bottom orthecabinet. The leng! IIof these plates is a totalof •.: longer than the width or the cabinet.(Thi. allows a "1'." overhang on the outsideedges. see Fig. 5.)

The width of these plates is E'qual to thedepth of the cabinet (2"), plus the thicknessof the door (rame (lY,.·). plus VI' for theoverhang' on the front. This totals 311,".But since the door frame isn't built yel. Icut them to rough width of 3Yt for now.and trimmed them after the door \VIC' built.l'ILUlFt:KEIJ(:t~" Finally, the edges of

these plates are chamfered (on the routertable) to leave an V. -wide chamfer on thefront edges and both ends. (The edges onthe back of th~ cabinet 8''1> I.n square, see<." ")rIg. a.

could also be sanded off.,

Page 6: Woodsmith - 026

WOOOS~UTH

The first of these fini.u.ing details is toCUl the stops to hold the glass in the doorframe. see Fig. 8.

to:ext, f installed the hinges. I used brassbuu hinges on this cabinet and mountedthem in the mortises cut on the edge of thecabinet sides.

Finally, I mounted a magnetic eateh in­!tide the cabinet. and installed a ceramicknob on the door.

I finlsbed this cabinet with two coats ofMinw8.,\;Antique Oil Finish.

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the scrollwork, f routed a ,,~'-wide cham­fer alcng it» front edge. The easiest way todo this is on a router table \\ith a chamferbit equipped with a pilot guide.

Unfortunately.lhe pilot prevents Ihe bitfrom completely chamferine the insidecorners of the prome. So I wound up using• 'harp chisel to touch up the areas missedby tho router bit.norxr TIlE INLA)-. Next, a circular rea

cess is cut for the starburst inlay. Sincethis inlay is a circle, the recess is relativelyeasyto cUtwith an expansion bit all a driUpress. lThe details for cUlting the recessand mounting the inblY are described inShop Notee, page 22.)

MOl-:''T TO C,II!IS&T. After the jnlav ismounted. the scrollwork is glued to the tOI'of the cabinet.

DETAilS. DETAILSAt this point. all that'S left are the littledetails that alwavs seem to be left until lh~last moment (not necessarily because it'sthe natural time to do them. but becausel've finally finished all the fun parts.)

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THE SCROLLWORK

Now for the trieky part: th~ scrollworkwith the inlaid srarburst. Although this isnot completely necessary. it turned o!'t tobe a 10lof fun. (That is, once I got 0"." myinitial fear of screwing it up.)The r,,,.t step is to mark the outline of

the scrollwork on a piece of stock 2\', wideby ~~... long. (All of the neeessary dimen­$inn~ are shown in Figure ;. I When theoutline is marked. be sure to include (h.center l)Ointof the circle for the starburst,Then CUI the outline on a band saw, andsand the edge;; smooth with a drum sander(bn a drill press),cll\) ..·.;R.:I)(:~", To soften lhe edges of

THE DOOR FRAME

The door on he spool cabinet is constructedwith simple mortise and tenon joinl'l1·.(See pages 7 to 11for a detailed descriptionon cutting this joint.)THEl"IL&S The first step is to cut the

stiles and rail. 1100wide. Then the >"tile,can be cut to length to equal the full heightof the cabinet.This dimension is actuall~' a little too

10111(- the door would fit too tightly be­tween the top and bottom piat('<. Rut sincethe plate'S aren't mounted yet, 1 cut thestiles to full height olOt, and trimmed thedoor to size after it was assem bled.

Tllf: IlAlloS.The rail •• re out to length sothe final width of the door frame is equal totheoutaide width of the cabinet, see Fig .• ,.(The sheulder-m-ahoulder length of therail. equal. the outside \\ idth of the eabi­net. minus the combined width of the two'lile"- Then to get the tctal length of therails, l added I~" for the two tenons.)After the rails and stiles are CUl to size, 1

cut Y."-v,·idemortises in the stiles, and cutthe tenons to fil the mortises. When all th~jclnts are cut, glue the deer tagethel" mak­ing su.re it'. "quare and tlat.TRIM f)ECORATIVf. l'I.ATEs. Once the

door was assembled, I backtracked andfound the final width for the tOl>and bot­tom pl"le~ (0). Then these two platesaretrimmed to width nnd !(Iued to the cabinet&0 they're centered on the width. ami nu.qhwith the back I'd!:e.Finally. ltrimmed the height of the door

frame to allow clearance between theplates. t'Irim a hairnffboth the top and thebottom of the door frame, SO the width ofthe rails remains equal.)

R.\BIlF.T FOR Ct. ...sss, To illstaU the glas..in the door frame, I routed a •·...-wide by.",.-deep rabbet on the back of the frame.see detail in Fig. 7. (The routing techniqueI used tn eliminate any ehipout on lhe edj!eClf the rabbet is de;«:ribed on page 22).CII.I)It"ER.Pinally. 1 sanded the door

frame, and then routed a stopped chamferen the outside edge of the stiles, see detailin ~·ig.6.

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Page 7: Woodsmith - 026

7WOOOSMITH

\\'h,'nevrr I "'" oul 10 build a frame, lhefiJ'Rt t'trlJ i!ol ttl dt"ttnnlnc tht! final size Iwant lh. f..Amc to b., There are twochoice.: you ~.n huild the frame ~o then"tslflt riiml'n~iol'~are a ~rtain size, orbuild it .0 lh,· "",dr dimeliliioru;. are •cert8in .i .. ·. A. an example, I built...ampl.. rram,' "ilh out,ide dimen.,;on., of12"hil!laby II" WIde.I. !"Io'TI .. t:s \'1; R\II..' Tu build a frame

thi- aU<'. the Ilil,·, ("ertical pi"""") "ill be12' lo"g .... hleh ISIhe final outside hei¢lt ofI.... (nune. The I('n!(thofthl! r..iL<(horizon·tal pi.... os) it< delermined by this .impl"tquation' raallen~h -

(fanal ou,""ide "idth o( (ram<')minu~ 12time. the width of the .tile)plu. (2 tim~" the length of the tenon).

To uto('thi, equation I had to fill ill tiletwo \'aMable", the width of the stile. andthe length o( lhe lenon. I chose a wiolh ofIy,. (or the $til••.

Alth.Jugh 1All'\,t !'hf)\\'n several variauore- Thing« ~t'l <l lilt lo complicated when 3. ( lTT(J "t:\,; ru TIJstart, I CUl rough~urmorli~(·an(llt'nnn jOints in past issues or figuring th(· !"ngth of the tenon. In gen- length "'I~(."tlt)ns(flr the ~titt'~and rails tl-11"0<,,1'"11111. th .. tim" we're ,howins: only eral, th., tenon should be at least Y" les» longer than n",.I",I, TllI'lI th,' section forthe basi" joint. ' . but we're including all than th,· "illth or th,' stile. That is, you the -tiles I. eut til ronal l,·ngth, t'The railstho' ··tlick. oflh,· trade" we've learned to "antt'l Ie'a\',· y,. between the bonom of ar,' cut to finllll"IIJ.(1hlnter.)achlow' ~ood ,",ult.,. thl' morti-e and the outside edge of the \\Th"n <uttUlI: 10 final length, I use aThe I'rocl~lu,,' we follow I. not intended .tiIt'. If the .lllc" IlJ'\! IV."wide, the, would dllul>l,""'1II'".·.·.lu re, trimming one end of

to cut f)ll<' I'rl'll~' jUU1\[ust to show off. mean '" tenon It.'ngth of J V..... each l..J81'tl..quare, and then trimming thtlR.!th,·r. th~ pcim Is 10 cut four joints to Hcwcvr-r. ""oth"r limiting factor for the other "",1 10 th. final length.form a ~~•• I. 'lunly frame ... one that', tenor IS th,' depth of the mortise, I like to To make th,,,,c "UU, I 11>(' th,' panelsquarv aItt'1h:tl no ''''I1't to it. .----------.:....--------------.. cut t Ing JIM t"ho" h in l" uodBUIIdIIl~' mortise and tenon I. I. '" Ih :\0 :!oj, This jil: help

(rame "1\ 01\ ~8 ~\'t'ral t('('h- _ 1 _ ,. ... •• ... h«lld the·btJaJ'rl ~J"OU (2.Il makeI\IqtI'OS. )tt the entln' I)~"" 1:00'1~I""'"NI:.dell(·n<lson (our h3.sa< rul.>, r-r--.... ,. I lUI' lYlwurrn :-;,,~'tI...tI) U~)lOOllllt""j(hllumber LL_ uJ> thft "' .. to nf' the ,ul"" and2) Plan all eurs ,0 you're r"' SHOUU>l. 10 _ rails to final Width III{," wide),

workIng" IIh ",land.rd- A... in. all prece-, arc dvuble-pi~ and l'~ttln~!' ..., That is. cut. First "I' them about .-once you 8ft ul' for it cut, don't "uh'r than needed, and thent.'hangt' it. <,CI8)'<'8.1 and rut all TO'ALUNOfH Of snlf = tnm tht.'nt to final width, Thispl('l'r, with exactly the same tOW HIIGH' Of ...... C12 • double cutlil1l(allew you 10ripM,ttinj.~. 12' snu TOTAlUNGrM OFtAll- snl,( bt,th (·dg('~of each )iectt so Y01J3) Milk,· 11;,,1out. each step OU.SlDEWID'" Of , ..... Cll, know you're workins:with two

~. MlNUS 2 TIMIS WIO," Of STIlE (31 .(orth~ way, .. PlUS 2 TIM" UNO."O.n_cn ~ clean ,,11(1'"

4)1l,' p8ti.nt. There', no &, I 1If,1 ~ FUll \1 AIIP AI·ru'h 10 It,·t thml:' done. lhllujCh I 11'1' gO<lnstraightTh. tull rll'!«'n).tlun of this luml>t·r at lh. cutset .• ome•

pfOC(odun.'ma~' seem overty de- tim('s internal st ress in thetaiI(~i-like lht're'~ atremen- C 0 t""~nlc:au~'~tht" f,it"l"t."!'- Lo J:!'OdOlL.amounl IIf tIme and "ork .... AB "frazy· as \ht>y're lil'ped.'"'01\,',1, Hul once \'I.u·.... in .L l...:....;;1 L- -J Th, "or:;! lbin)! 10 conl"ndIhI! .hop and IICt1Jall~'&t.art rut· "ith Is pteff' that are t"i'tM.I ling the JOint. things mOve TI, C'h('('k (()r twi..;;t. la,' each

I aJongMI·I)""ll~ 1(00<1p3re. • . "orkl'l:!«' on a nat <u,1_ IIfa.,t """ugh II) I(ct lbe job done. bUl ean~ u,p So'an< n~.rt~ bit> which drill c:umfort· lL....• the top of the·table saw). and , ... ifyoufully "nough III lIel it done right. ably to a deplh of I". So I redu~ th.. """ ,,"'k ,t b) al'pl~'"l( pre,..'u,"" to' Ol~

THI INITIALPItOCIDURI len~'1hofth~ 1<'l1onfor lho ""mple frame to ",,,,!t. <111"'·.... If lillY or th.· pi""..". areI" (which .. al.a an e"en measurement t"bll'd •• ,·t lh"In a.id~ and eIlt repla<~.that'" ~lU<y to work \\ilh !lO lhere's Ie... men", that "", lruly flat Hno>tl'3ight~han'"e or a me.,uJ;".r error.' 0.1,,1\ nITI.« ", l'I'IT~Il~ At thi,; point

Back to the "'Ilia lion. Th~ fin:.1ou,,"idt· bolh tho' ,tile' and ".il, h.\'~ hL-encut tildim~nslon or the fram~ i. II". Minu. 3" ",tandal",I" widlh ond lhe ~Iil~<have been(which i. 2 limp, tho' widlh of the slile.) eutto linal len~"h. ('fhl' mIl>are cullO fmalPlu" 2" (" hi~h i, 2 lime. lh. lenJ(lh 0{ the I...n~h lall'r wh,'" tla,·Woon, are (ut. Jt<'n"n). Thus. tht I'81llenglb equab IIr. Th.· ''''xt 011'1',. 10 layout aU of the: (nons"" Tnl: IIIKIIJ. \\Then choo.inp; pi,,,,.,,, '" th,'" ". p.xli\·~ I"'''ition.. to rorm

th~ \\ ",.1 to build a fr.me. it'. important to th~ fram,' TI1l'n1 .tarl d"'ffiin~the I'i_,chuuM·~...'" 'tnU)!hl lum11<·r- no warp, until lhe\' ha,. th.,r 1",,1 f"", (ormml.no t\\U,l. rtfl C'Uf'~ :\0 malte-r ho\\~,,·elltht· and thp),If'e' .,rran~('C1'Alth a nice J!T'3injoin ...' an' eIlt. If the "ood i.warpt-d. (Or pailI'm.l.'>p(·dallyI( 11'&t\\ i-ted. the frame "ill be • 'I\Rk I II III'IU I. \\ben an the pi""'"goof<'<Iup. are amml:",lth.· "ay I """tlh"",. 1mark

I a!so try t., c:h()oo..t· a pi{"l"("thal~'" o\'er~ each PI('("C80 th(,n.'·;oo,no ronfu~if'D later. I~iud:5(1 tht.·n- \\ 111be ~omescrap lefl o,'er u:iu:tllyju.,t (Iray. an ar1"O\\" on the ra~ tiiQE'for Inal ~\lt.\\·h,·n lh •• ernp come. from (the >ill,' thut ",II fac. Oul). Tbi, armwthe·"""e hoanl a. the' raib antl.til.".. you poin"', to" &nltlle UI.itlel"~.of the frame.know till' ,(·tling on the tlial cuts "illapply I ru.I)mark each I"t",e 80 I know which ;,.to the "",,,1" piece•. I~"orthe .ample frame right (R). I~" II.). 'op IT), and bollom (8).I cho.~ n piee~ or hardwood 3Y,t wide by Then I'm rcady to cuI the mQrti~ and86· lonl(.) ten"",,. _

_loine~· .TenonTHE BASICS OF BUILDING A FRAME

Page 8: Woodsmith - 026

WOODSMITH

I It· • 2"__..CAJlalA.GE IOU

~ _WA$HIIr--tOCK WASHfI

-W1NGNUT- - WASHEt-,_

owfi PlYWOOD&tOCIt TO _-aonOM Of JtG

BOlT.lKi TOr: DIIU PRESS lA8ll:

flGUIE.LAMINATf THREE'fECES OFPl'I'WOOO-FORflNeE

-fENCE 36· LONG 8Y 111..• W10f

scrap W make trial cuts. Place the scrapagainst the felice and a(lj\l.5t the fence sothe bit is approximately centered on thethiekness of the scrap.From here, the procedure varies

slightly depending on lhe bit used, (For areview of five mortising bits, see Tools ofthe Trade, page 20.)The bit I use most enen is the Sears

Mortise Bit. The procedure in this case istodrUl a shallow tesr hole in the scrap piece- just deep enough so the bit forms acomplete circle. Th~n flip the scrap piecearound so the other face is against thefenee. Lower the bit 1<>see if it drills inexactly the same hole, ~ee Fig. o. (Thi.may take quite a few trial cuts, but theeffort spent 11011' will payoff later.)If I'm using one of the routing bits (like

the inca mortising drill), I've found it'seasier 10 rout a shallow mortise at lhe endofthe scrap. Then flip the scrap around andlower the bit to see ifit knieks one gid. orthe other, _ Fig. 6.,j. IlfUU.. £~Duoi.es, !'\o\\r you're read)'

1.0 drill uUlthe mortise. I start by drillingthe two end holes to deline the linallenglhofthe mortise , see Fig. 7. This is clonewiththe face side (the side marked with anarrow) of the stile against the fence.

6. t'I,E";< OUT.After the end holes aredrilled, lbe rest of the waste IS removed.When I use the Sears liortise bit, I drill aseries of barely overlapping holes betweenthe end holes, bee J>'g. 8.After this fll'St series of holes is drilled.

there will be small V-shaped shouldersalong the checks of the morrise, I centerthe bit ever each "\0"' shoulder and drill"traight dOWI\on them. The bit may tendto argue a liltle when removing the V­shoulde rs, ~o I make repeated, shallowcuts until the V's are drilled 10 full depth.

1. ~IORTlSEOTHERESD. Up to this pointall of these steps were for drilling one

SmlNG UP THE FENCE

All o(these layout marksare used to set upthe fence, stops and feather boardused tohold the stile in place as the mortise isdrilled. An overview ol this setup is shewnin Figure ~, (The construction details (01'this fence are described at the end of thearticle.)Shop Note: The bottom corners of the

stops should be chamfered to allow a saw­dust relief. AI-o the feather board is raisedup with. small block so it exerts pressureon the lop edge of the stile. This is whereall the action is, so you want the mostsupport here.

I. ('E~"'ERSTILEOS SIT. To set up thefence. the first step is to position the fenceso the stile is centered On the bit. This isthe critical step. Although it's possible tomake alterations later, things will go •whole lot smoother from here on if themortise is exactly centered Oil the stile.To get the proper setting, I use apiece of

8

The difficulty in cUlling a mortise andtenon joinl is that it's two separate oper­ations. Yet the end result must be oneperfectly matched joint. This problem i,maJllliJied when building 8 frame simplybecause there are four joints to contendwith.The key Wmaking four good joints is to

make each mOI1i!'C and each tenon withstandard settingll- so they're all the sameand don't have to be "euswmized.·So which doyou ('lit first, the mortise or

the tenon? I think it's best to cut the mer­tise first because one of its dimensions (thewidth) 6 Umited to the size of the bit usedto drill it out. The tenon, on the other hand,is exposed and relati.~ly e-",,~'to get to ifits dimensions need tc be altered,

l.AYING OUT

The first step for cutling a mortise is to layout the dimensions (the width, length, anddepth) on the edge of the stile. I makethese layout marks on only one stile. Thenthis stile i8 used to set up a fen~'(!ar­rangement on the drill press to cut all themortises with standard settings.I.DETERMINE InDTB. The width of a

mortise is limited lo lhediameter of the bityou're using. In general. thE'!mortiseshould be one-third the thickness of thestock you're working with. ~'or 'VI' -thickhardwood, I cut a Y'-\lide mortise.

z, 101I~" LE)lGTIJ.As for the length of themortise, once again there are certain lim­itations. The mortlse should stop farenough from the end of the stile so itdoesn't split out lhe end of the stile.Usually v.· from the end i" enough to elimi­nate an~'problems.The other end orthe mortise is limited to

the width or the rail. (Si1l<.'ethe tenon can'tbe any wider than the "idth oitho rail, themortise isalso limited to this size.) I mark aboundary line on the stile equal to thewidth of the mil, see Fig. I.Now the other end of the mortise can be

marked. This. is where some consistencypays off. Since the first mark WA!; made 'I."from the end of the stile. the second lineshould be marked 1'.' from the boundaryline, see Fig. 2, (This will simplify cuttingthe tenons later.)3. )l~RKDEPTH.Finally, the depth of the

mortise is marked on the end of the srite.sec Fig, 3.• 'or the sample frame, I markedthe depth at 1". (Note.' when the depth ofcut is set On lbe drill press, it's OOt tolower the bit just stightly more than thisline to be sure the bit actually CUIS to fulldepth.)

GmlNG ITCENTEREDISTHEKEY •Slot Mortise

Page 9: Woodsmith - 026

9\VOODSMI1H

7Plnrr Ihr .lllt Idll,lloe fart sid."yuill.,/II, f'lIe,-. Tpell ,,(a rl Ih~ mar­

Ii•• by dnl/illY lilt I"" ",d IIol.s 10drfill'III. lulallenyth oll/,e nwrli8',

9 IlliOU U,(",t a t""rlt.'(r lC:ti1l1 l'quarfCO",11 r••• Inrl h!/ <I,oppillg straight

dOll'lIal 1/.. ,,,d•. Tit". <Ira" "ll Ihe cor­lIer!byp<lrillg dill"" all 1/1' IIIorliJ;echfeks,

8At1~II" ,lid ,,,,'''.a" drilltd, drill Q~'·nr.''If'II'(',I11PP'''9 holf$ 10 c/",,"alll lilt ,,,,,.Ir TI'e" drill dOll'" 01' tilt IItJllllIl(I~r3. and "'tIki' (,!il,al ro'fli)rg fXl.$s.

oSllU

6 7'() rr"fl,' ,II, 1l(,/tl if (J rollfi"!l bil ill,,!t('II, n,;tl II ,.',(11("", ,t./)rli,~,nn lIlt.

(tI(/ OJ·tlln li/,/,., 7'11(" jli/I xrmp Urc"111d toSI't! if 'hI ",l k"'r~'!f u",. :-tidr 0" tJ,r olht'r,

5 1 'St" ["rer oJ 1«'1"111' 10 ccuter Ihe botPlff(" tl,f' ~C'f'(lI'Qgoi,,3t '"e/ru", otld""l~'~a ,IInll,,"' 1",1, TI,t,,,/1;,1aro" ttd il t,)

Btl if '(t'Nlrt({ Itf}l.. 111(,lr}tfSIht: first,

4 lJs,'lh .. filiI'. 011Iltr Slil.IO 8., lhe SlopbltJ('kHJ('f fl,,. ,,10.t't)lt'(/" IR'lgilr (lIllIe

"",,1;.. , Tit,,, f".,,./I Ih, jltllhfr b«Jrd illpiarr "_"'g (1 ht(I('k to t'(Jllt(' il lip.

snu

,

(t4Of (NO SOUAIf

3."nrl.: 'h, d"I"/' uf ,.,,1 (lU Ihl' "'Id(iflh~'ali}l" 7'hl" #.", 11 ~ftti,tg thl' drplJ, (if

('lit. Iou';"" 'h~1I11a I,ttlt "",ff thnn Illis."lln 10~ .-urI" llf" 1,II rltls lojl411 dFplI',

2Xt.ri, lI,rfinn! /,"glh of the "'01'i.~pi.)lIllrk~(I .\Ial·~·Ollt! IIIIt'. at It'(l,fl.1 ~.

I"'" llU'" d '1) I/o,.Iik. TIl''' ",ark 1"<o'~rrI ,1(, -,ra,' Ih, lx.)Ulld(lry li1lf',

1 1'1/4If 1/9th tl} '". ,'tOrifltt '" l'iI"itNl fuII,,· tllltl/ ".,dlh of Ih. roil, So fh. jir!t"'fP 1$ II>/>01,1" ... raIl "I 0" flld "I II>, st,feand ,,,ark a IIQIn,fary /",r.

Sl1l.l

pieees are SO" long. and lhe bottom piece i-8G" long )These three pieces are glued andclamped tosrether \\ hen the glue l> dry.np 8 dean edge on both faee- Also, cut 3chamflr on the bottom edgeo{thf> fenee a...a 03"dust re c!To nltndl th,- f.'ne,- to tilt' baec, drill a

series fir , hoi.·, lit each end of theft·n('(lr to fllrt'l 2'"·lf'n~ f;h,t~. anti anoth(·rSt>ril"S or I 41 hoi\::-..Kt each end of the base tofilrm h ..I"ng tllot!oi.Then clean out thesesl018with n ~lIh.. •,'aw andllle. And finally,US(' l'llrri.;'J.:'t·tHJll8 t(1 rn~t(.tl thE' fenee toIll< basu.To l'rulon~ the lifl·ofthl· ha.s,e. I cut a :i"x

~~.foquart holc· (with a ~hr(! sa", andel'3nM II' tho .. Ice with a "lUh-r). Then 1glu.. 1 a backmg I ('CC 10tne bottom of theba; e and eut a "'I'l;u-eable "'IWiI'l' to filth esquare hi),

reunded, antI round over the tenon tomatm:!l :-;quare up the eerners of the mort se

",th • marv chisel to aeeept the square.'Ome", or the tenon. To do tlti,. ,!.JUt b~chOPPtnKdow" on the end. f the mertisewith IIsharp ch I, see Fig. 9 Make tighttaps and Jlr) 0 ,t the ",._,t. until you read!th.- bottom of the meruse, Then dean u~,lh,· Cf.1"1I4'1"bh~' ,Iarin}l down on the-cheeks.

FENCl 'Oft DRilL PRESS

Th.jig I u "ror drilling out the m(lrti.e><i..impl)' a 'Y. 1'1~'Wnodb..se with a movablei"n<~. To build t hi, fenCl-arrangement, cutlh, base about 12"wide by -I.~·long, Thencut \"0gn"'\'~on the bottom or the ba-e,anrll:lue 10 the twe $tlffe""!'>'....ee ~11!.A.:\t't.nilthree more 1'_ of plywood"Ide for the fence ('1"" 0 of the se

mor'W( on one nd or the.tiIe 'Ilu:- .tileW8.< 1... ,tlOned ,,,th Ill; faee -Ide (the -idemarked ",th an ""11\') al(llin.t the fence.Til cut the othrr end the stile ha.< to be

turned around, But th15pUI~the faa! "d.0111.A,.i IIlh bIt II not e~tl); centeredOIlthe tllloimr:;s of the sule, the mort,,,,,,,.t each end" III be of(,ee nter in diffprentdirections.J\Ii"t to maintain rc1r\tlj...teney. Icut on))

one ('nel or 01l.t ill'!' n"'t twith the face "ideRl!lIm.t tlu- f,·ltc,·). Then I reposition the",of' bloek•• o I ran kes-pthe faee side ofthe!'Ilill' 1~again~t lh4 (l'llC'"when cullinft themort 1st'S Rt the Ilther (·ne-I., (IIUI' "It IIl1. When all the mortises

are cut. ) ou hould M\'C perfect slot mer­liM'on all the .lill'll. from Moreyou hal eone of t"(I ehoiees

I) I.•• " the ends of the meruse

Page 10: Woodsmith - 026

WOOOSMITH10

(after it's completely cut), po.ilion the railover the apex (highest point) of the blade.Then gently move it baek and forth overthe blade while slowly mO"ing the mitergauge forward and baek. The hij(h points ofthe blade will remove the roughness fromthe entire face of tb. tenon, see Pig. 5.

1. (TTOTltER exo. When one end of therail is complete, turn it around (end forend) to work on the other end. (Ap:ain,keep the face marked with the arrow downon lhe table.)When the other end is cut. the rail

should look like it ha. two haIC·laps, andthe shoulder-to-shoulder distance shouldbe what you want (8" for the sampleframe), see Fig. 6.S.CL'T OTHERsms. Before cutting the

opposite faces duplicate these fin<tcuts alla piece of scrap. Then nip the scrap overand make a narrow cut out at the end tomake 3 sample tenon. see Fig. 7.If the sample tenon fits the mortise after

this cut, go ahead and tilt the other twofaces of the tenon.lithe sample tenon is either too tight or

too )OOHe. it means the mortise is notcentered, In this case you have to cut thetenon off-center by the same amount as themortise,To do this, adjust the height of the ",1W

blade and mako trial cuts on the scrap pieceuntil the tenon fits snugly in the mortise.tlt's better to have the iit a little on thetight side, than 100 loose.)

9.3RD ANI) 'Til SII()IUIERS. The thick­ness of the tenon should be perfect now.All that remains is to cut the 3rd and 4thshoulders so the tenon filSthe length of themortise (all the "'ay to the rounded ends).

I usually just sneak up on this cut bymaking trial cuts out at the end of thetenon, see Fig. S. When the 3rd shoulderlines up, flip the rail over and cui the 4thshoulder.

10. FI~AI.1'1'1"1'1:-1(:.xow for the final Iit­tlng. If the ends of the mortise arc roundand you want to leave them tha~ way, youhave to round over the corners of thetenon. I do this \\itl! a fnUI'·in·hand rasp,see Fig. 9.As you're fitting the tenon into the mor­

tise. the ideal situation is that the tenonwill slide in with hand pressure only. How­ever, there's usually a little chunk of some­thing in the way.Before I get OUl the chisel. I try to

gently tap the tenon home with a hammer.If$[Cudetapping doesn't work, den't try topound the tenon in (this may split thecheeks of the mortise). Instead, use a

up with the mortise, see Fie. 3. It may takeseveral trial cuts to get the COl1'C<:theightfor the RaW blade.I.snour.nes Sl:'I"I'IS(;, As mentioned

earlier, the tenon is cut br making multiplepasses over the blade. The important thinghere i. to stop right at the proper shoulderline, . , on all pieces. To do this, I use thefence ()nthe table saw as a stop to limit thelength of the tenon.Shop Note: There is a rule in wood­

working that the fence and the miter gaugecannot be used tOl!:ether.This rule is true ifyou're mshing a through cut thal will leavea chunk of waste between the blade andfence. But in this case there's no waste forthe blade to throw, so the fenee ean be usedas a stop.For the sample frame, the shoulder set­

ting is 1-(which is the length of the tenon),Al.iju$tthe fence so it's I" from the uut.ndelien) edge of the blade.

5. CL'TFACEor TESOl'. At this point, thedepth ofcut is established, and the fence isset for the shoulder distanee. Now thetenons arc read)' to be cut.Start by placing the rail with the face

sidedow>lon the table SlIW. Note: Since thedepth of cut was established \\~lh the faceside of the slile down (the side with anarrow marked on it), the rail should also becut with the same face down.Cut the tenon (with multiple passes) by

guiding the rail with the miter gauge. Thelast pass \\~11be the shoulder cut (when theend of the rail is against the fence). seeFig. 4.

6. SMOOTII TilE r AC";. As the face of thetenon is cut, the RaW blade will leave arather rough surface. To smooth the face

\\'ben makinj( a mertise and tenon jointthere's a tendency to coneentnale on the fitof one tenon in one mortise. However.when buildinp: a frame, the rails have twotenons, one at each end, And this situationintroduces another critical measurement:the distance between the shouklers of thet\\IO tenens.This shoulder-to-shoulder distance must

be exactly the same 011 both rails, or theframe will be out of square. The method weuse to cur the tenon is intended to get thetenon to fit the mortist>,3$well as producethe correct shoulder-to-shoulder distance,1.LES(''TIIOFRAIl.. First, the rails have

to be cut to tin...) length, (The rails wereonly em to rough length earlier./ The finallength of the rails is determined by theshoulder-to-shoulder distance, plus thelength of boll< tenons,Going back 10 the sample frame, the

problem i. to build n frame with an outsidewidth of U-. If the stiles are I"'" wide.then their combined width is :1-. ThUR,theshoulder-to-shoulder distance of the rallsmust be 8". The othe,' variable (the lengthof the tenon) is equal to the depth of themortise (1" deep).Adding the;;e variables together (8" for

the shoulder-to-shoulder distance, plus 2"for the two tenons) equals the final lengthof the rail (10"). Trim the rails to thi.<finallength.z. IIErTII OF Ct'T. Once you have this

measurement, the basic technique fOI'cut­ting a tenon is to lay the rail nat on thetable saw and make multiple pa.ssses overthe blade to clean off the face of the tenon.The first step here is to Set the heighlof

the $IlW blade to cut the tenon to the properthickness. To do this, I use the mortise asa gauge.

Ideally. the mortise i~ ceJlt~red on thestile. so it shouldn't matter which face ofthe stile you lay down on tbe table to setthe blade height. But just in case the 0101'·rise is off-centel', r work from the face Fideof the stile to begin with. (The face side islhe side that was marked with an arrow atthe beginning of all this.)Place the face Side of the stile d01l'1I on

the table and raise the blade until the high·est point of one tooth lines up with thecheek of the mortise, see ~'ig. l.

3. TKIALCt'T. Since the mortise is used ""a gauge, (his setting should be right on themoney. But it's always best to make a trialcut on a piece of scrap to check it out, seeFig. 2.Place the trial cut next to the cheek of

the mortise to sec if the depth of cut lines

TWO PROBLEMS:THESHOULDER AND THE FIT •The Tenon

Page 11: Woodsmith - 026

II\VOODSMlTH

7Tooompl'It th.ltnOIl, turn il~''''''(8''Illet ~idfi8 "p)and "ptol Sltp.~ a lid

.~,Rlarl;rt9 ""t at 1M e1.dollllc Irlll»! "tidfndill9 al tile shold;kr fill.

8Toc"'lhtSnlaltd~lh,ltouldeT$,'u", 9//11011 lefl the end. of In, 1II0rt".~th~milo" .dg. ,wd ~Ileak lip 011 the "",nd. '''ecornl!1'8oflhfl,",,,, "'''lin

c.d.s ,n,lil lit, width of Iht lello" ",al,hea be "" .. ".It'd /{)",okll, ('sea10llr.ill.hOlldthtlulllt71{/tI' 0/ tI', ",orli~.. ra.." to grlllly I"Oltnd·Ol/III'tltt CorJlera,-------------------------------

'ltD SHQULOlIt

6TUMllh, m,lt71dJor-'71dIIc«p'"'' Ih.,J'arf'.,dt dOI<? ) ONd'/I(llte .(J/'(C t"Nt 01

DlIt, r .. .I Clt~k th. $howldf'T·I"..I",.ldrrdlatallr~MI'I'ft'" the le"o",'4

5Toclt(JNofflht flUt "III" kiln",p••h,,,. mil baricandforl" o......th.·IIighnt

P"rl of tJ" blod., IIh.l, tlW.,,1I1 tit. filii..,.gaugt/OMroni 0'1.1"",It.

4$(' In,lt7Ice .... (he dIAI".r, 10 ,'"",,'.tid, 0( lit" blad~ 'quala Ih~Il'Ifglh

oflh, It.0'1, Th". mak,"P""'Y/ pa"u /0nIl Ih..fact of lite ItTlm.

, ,$1,.101.All lAC.

AND fOIl"

...1- ...

1To ", lit' d<'plhof .tI(,plarr lite ,.,ilejur,. dmen on the tablt' Ru ;~("tIlt 1,ladt

I<J II" /"91t"" 'oolh /i",. "1' ,'i,1t ti" bot.111mrltftlc ,{lit, marl I.'.

3Tu dlerlt IIw dtpl" $(lIjll9, [1111«'"'f'nnt rlit ,,('n to tnt' ",orliHI ((OCf ,''(,tI,

1'/' Oil '",,11aPfl'('f'lf) 10 UI' ifthi' rltt 11/1(" "P",tI, Ih~,n,c/( oltl" mort.1<

2 .4lthollgit 11, .. d.pl" Irllmg MuJlIld /)If077'{'ft* IfS( (J P , rr (If $C'rop 10 tP-3t Iht

dcpt}!uf nil. Ilakt 0 ('WI III t}lt ."d, guidi. gtM ~p ,"th 1Mm,'" ga~gt

UN[ UPTtlr tUIWI'" MOlliS.

GLUING UP THEfRAMEAl th" POlOtall four JO'"t~for the frameshould fil perfectly, 1'\0" for the big ques­tion: b the framl' tl<JlI"'" and Oat? To checkOUlthe framl', dry·a.",'mhlc the rails andstiles. (AI this "IAR'" don't use clam"" anddon't apply any glue,)tKECK FOR1'\\ 1'1 Lay Ihe frame on a

jl41 surface and try to rock it at OPPOSIWcorners 10 see If II Is t....isted. Twist i,theworst thinl!'to contend with, But it tmJa!Iydoesn't occur If the wood t, ,;nighl 10b;,gin \\lth.Once again, use intuition to correct any

problems , .. and tak.· il .10",~Ht:CKw'TII t I.'>II'S. When .\·erythinc:

goes together like iI" supposed to, theframe can hi' dry-clamped (no glue yet) 10test the eff,'Cl the .Iam,,~have on tho

<h ... I to clean out the mort iso, or pan',I..wn tho raa! of the tenonSince thb joint is blind, you can't se'"

\\'hat'~ )toing on when it'!, a~S('ml)I('fi.and"n,bll'lll>' arc difficull 10 find Rn.1 ,"... rect.Intuition i. the best 10<'1. I try 10 imaginemy",,, inside the joint lookin~ amunt! for,.roblem areas. Then I take u slow A littl.bit of rom.'(tinl( can go 8 lon~ \\'a~.

()nce the tenon does .lid,· m, chl"<'k 10leeit the .boulden! rest finnly on lhe edee ofIh,' stlk If there's. a Jill'" gap, cheek.round Ih. b"". of lhe tenon to see .flhem's a lillie chunk ofwa.-t" that needs 10hi' rh.«'11.'<!away,

If Ih,· base of the tenon i.clear ann Ih,'•holll"c,.. still don't rest on the .dlll' of tho.111", lhe tenon is probably jU"1 " hair toolong, Trim about v,.· off the I'm! of thetenon and try the fit a!:8in.

5qWU"! 11C5Sor the fnme.1 You only n<·('<1abar or prpe damp at eaeh end of the franl<'- clamping the stiles aga;II:I1the ~h,,,,I·rl~r>Oil Ihp rails.]1'1..ce the clamps On anal .unace and

JXl"ltion the l,w. and stiles. Thvn lib theclamp" art' lilthlent'll, don't apply 100 much1"'I'l<!IUI'l' (thb can twis the (ram,,). U.. ' •try "'IUltT\' to cheek the framo fer "'Iuare.

(.1.1 f: II'. If it all checks OUI, I""", n Ihe.lamp"and ""I,ly alittlt glu,' in lhe m"rweII use a Q·l1p). And Irru<hon a little on lheIt!Oil. Then 1.llhten the rlam, ... Ru>hingat thissUIj1Ccan goofupa 1,,1of"ork Taken,..\ much ume 8."" needed to make sure thttfrnme 18 square as: the clam", 3rt!IIllhll·n<'<l .

\Vall ,IOOUI2hours for the glup Itl ·el8ndlh.'n .. -move the clamp". You should havea J'('ri.·"t mortise and tenon fntm,·.

Page 12: Woodsmith - 026

WOODSMITH12

THE DENTI!)lost of tbe visual impart of this cabinet isthe result of Ib~moldina - c specially thedentil (the <trip of evenly 'I>aC,-dblocks atthe top of th~ eabiner),This dentil (I) is marie hy tutoop: 8 series

of Vi·-wid. kerfs alon!!. board to producethe v.-wide block.,. (A complete deserip­tion of the cutting procedure ls given onpal(e 22.1THEPIlOIiLEll.When this dentil strip is

cut to length. it looks best ir there's afull-width block At each end. see Fig. I.But this creates a problem. Ifthe cabinet isbuilt first, it', almost Impossible to cut Ihedentil with the proper spacing to zet afull-width block on each eOO.

Tllt;SOI.t"l'IOS Instead. I cut the dentllfir:;l. and u:;OO it ~ 11"measuring stick" LOgauge the cuts for the rest of the cabinet.The dentil for the front of the cabinet is thekey one. This piece should be 22V, long

. ir everything work> out Jl('rfe.:t1y.However. the actual length of the dentil

may have to be altered stightly to makesure there are full-width blocks at eachend. (There should be a total of 30 full­width bloeks.)The dentil strips for the side>; of the

cabinet are not quite so critical. I CUI themto rough length at first, Then, during thefinal assembly stages, they ran be trimmedto fit the cabinet.OTHERMOLDISliSTRU'. After the dentil

There are two ways to look at 8 curiocabinet. To someone who has valuable col­lectibles. a cabinet like this is a nice way 10show them off. while keepIng th.m out ufharm', reach.A woodworker. however. mighl very

well ignore the item» on display and con- Itcentrale on the eonstruerien of the eabine; 11itself, H.,'~he wouldn't open the door to get I.a better view of the collectibles, but rather 11to see how the gla..~was installed. or to seeif the joint 1"",. on the back of the door fitas well II; those on thl' front.

When you s .,1 out to build a curio eabi­net, you know that the cabinet itselfwill beon di>pla, jll61 all much AA it" content s,Thi. just means laking a Iitlle extra time tomake sure things are done right.To simplify things, the construction of

this curio cabinet Is based on only twothings: building fram es, and cuttingmolding strips, But to complieete thillf:S,the sequence of con-rrueuen is a littlebackwards, (The reason fer the "back­wards" approach \\ill be clearer as thi.•swry untolds.)

A CABINET THAT'S WORTHY OF DISPLAYCurio Cabinet

Page 13: Woodsmith - 026

WOODSMITH 13

I. • I. CUT IACie lONGUE

STU. f(NONTONGUlCfNlfREDON S10CK

• ---•

•MUlt s FIGURE- 6

•n

r- ,'.--1t-" •.-..j~ f +ff/~'\....~ •• \-."IONGUE

(,£NTr.REDON S10Cl

-SIDEClOSS SKTtofoI'.'10·...

' ..• ".' GftOOvtCINltRlO ON STOCK

- - -p , i Fl,.16.... ~- 1 I16? • ._

,, ~. "'YWOOD ",NR, II,10'..,

• ~ )I; ',_ G~OOlJlCENnll-tO ON StOCK

; . ~U1 'OIIGU. _

bMATCH GROOVE:

I-- -----

U,.,.c- c". x Yo mil tENON

fRONt/lACKCROSS Sf('fK)N

r -19-'..-----"w.

• SIO£ FRAME

,,.OVElHANQ

DfHTllfWU FlAME'. COINfI ROUND

WlIH~. SHOUlDtl

,J

aonoM MOLDING

- _ TO _ DIST,yICt -l~NG O'IERHAHGS CASE ~ ON fAct( 510£ I". CotNU lOUND wnw ~ SHOV1.DE~

II

AlaN' DfHTll HAS 30 ruli...wtDTK MOCKS•

ROUtt- 1is made, Onemore moldingsllip (,J) shouldbe ~ut- the one that fits below the dentil.The tOPedge of thi. strip is rabbeted toaccept the dentll, Then the bottom edit" iscut with a 'I." corner-round bit, leaving II",,' shoulder, see Fig. 2.To gel the final length of this molding

strip, U-'Ie the "heel-tl>-hecl" distance of thedcntil (the distance between heels of themiter on the backside of the denul), and cutit to length, see Fig. 2. When this moldingstrip and the dentil are cut to final length,you can start on the web frames.

WEI FRAMES'l1\k curio cabinet Is built M two separateunits. And in keeping with the odd se­quenee of consrrueticn, I built each unitinside out. That is. 1 started with the webfr3m"" (the lop and botlom of each unit).There ere foul'web frames in all (IWO for

each unit). The key one i,: the top webframe (for the tOP unit). It must be ,i7.<'(iaccording to the final length of the dentiland molding piece tha; were just cut. Thenthe other three web frnm~~ arc CUt tomatch the tOI) one.RAILS"'~tlSTI"'~:S.The rails (front and

hack pieces) and Lhe stiles (side pieces) areripped to a width of 1""'. To determine thelengths of these pieces takes a littlefiguring.To get the length of the rails, measure

the distance between the shoulder. of thecorner-round on the bottom edge of mold­ing piece (JI. see Fig. 1. (Thi.. should be21'Y'.) Then subtract a lOIlt! of Ph" toallow '1'. on each end. (Thi..... is for thev.,. overhang, plus "rIO· for the thicknessofthe stock used for the side frames, minus'f.for the longue on the edge of the webframe. see fig. 3.)The stiles (side pieces) are 11 long to

make the web frame a total ofl.j" deep.seef'ig. 4. (This I I" length for the stiles a110\\'Sfor a 10'1,' shoulder-to-shoulder distance.plus W' for the two 'I••long stub tenons.)

CROO\''':S. Next. a y~"x ~t"deep grooveiscut along the inside edge of all 16of thesepieces. This groove is for the plywoodpanel insert, and it also is used to join theweb frames.To join the frames, cut stub tenons on

the ends of tbe stiles to fit the thicknessand depth of the groove, see Fig. o.PLIWOOI) PA;.iEt,S. Fj na l l v, drl"

... semble (no glue) the web frames u~dmeasure the distance between the bottomsof the grooves to get the dimension of theplywood panels (R). Cut the pan~b to th~~size. and then cut rabbets on both the topand bottom faces. leaving tongues to fit inthe grooves. Kow the raili;. stiles and pan­els can be giued tOl!l'ther to form the webframes.Later, tongues will be CUI on the outside

edges ofthese frames to fil into the sides ofthe cabinet, see Fig. 6.

Page 14: Woodsmith - 026

WOODSMITH

tllMWOFIlAMI! RUSH WITH

SHOUtJ)(1l Of LUlfl

,I

STO'GlooVE- I. '10M fRONT EDGE

1'0 1fT srolftD GlOOVE

"GU.'IO

14

,. ~j

T~ '1-, '.A

I. s~rlDo.oo¥It' •

• I.....

, • H-:,"• _1001 • -t• • ;

,1."• • IlUaP lAt. EDGf .c -+'. "'..., ,..

• !,- ;• IN_IIU • -t.,• • _i~

:\ • 5fOfif'tO Gaoovt

....Of" ,I.'.\ 1\,

m;utf. """".

- .... - _'\ ..--1_!-_..1

MOI1ISI t(NTI.'OON srOCK

,2'.

..II.

tHE SIDE FRAMES

The (our8ide (rame' 11"0 (or each unit) arejoined w,th molded-edit" mortise andtenon joints Th(· molded edlte on the railsand '1I1~' add. a little touch of class. andalso serves as a .IOp (or the gla.s,

wi (}Til \.", l.t"(.TII To build the sideframe •. np the otile. (B) 2" "ide and :l3"long. see Fig, 7. The rail, (A) are ripped to• width 0(2\10" and a length of 1214", (Note:the 10lal width o( these frames is equal tothe web frame •• I-t", So the shoulder-to­shoulder length o( the rails is lOW'. Thenadd 2" (anh,' Iwo I "-Innl!: tenons to geLthefinallonjlth of 121',',)

"OWl'.1I f:II(.1 .!\cxt. CUI • shoulderedY,' corner-round molding on the insideedg,' of each rail and stile Set thedepthofeut of I"" roul~r bll to 1",,\. a~' ,hooIderon the f_ slde o( ~h piece. see cross-section In f IJ.!. -;

R'BB£T After Ihe molded edge isJ'OOled.CIII a rabbet on the beck sideoft~moldinltso the ~houk!.r of therabbet Ii"""up with the .hnul,ll'r of the corner-round .The depth of Ih" rabbet i.,%' (10 accept 11piece of ijinltl(~1)3n. jtllll!-< and a stop),\lORTI"t:A"" TI;NO'. f'mally. themor­

tise and tenon. can beCIII. (For details onCUlling a mnlded~dl(\' mortis" and tenonsee \I'ood~milh No, 201.)_E\IOI.I: A'III R.\UIlt;TAfter thejoints

are cut .. semble Ihe (our frames, Thenrot a V' ~ rabbet alanl! the back edge(on lbe ,ul, I of ~aoh as-sembled frame 10~PI th.. "Iy" ood back, -ee Fig, 10.OpIK'n: I used Y.· walnut-veneer ply­

wood for Ih,' baw of th , cabinet, How­ever, another option is to use a mirror. Inthb ...... eut the rabbet to the lhiclcness ofthe mirror. plus enoul(b for. backing piece(JIO'lerboard). plus anorner y,' for thepush point» (UM!<Ito hold the mirror andbaekinj! in plaee),

ROLES "OR ~1If.I.VE" Later. two plateglass .hel.es are mounted in each unit.These .hell·cft ore supported with L­shaped ~helf pin$ mounted in Y' holes,If. important thaI these holes are in

exactly Ihe same IlO-,itionon all (our stilesof each unit. I made a simple drilling jig toalign them. Ju.tmark and driJI theholes ona piece of ocrap. 'pacinlt them as shown inFig. IS.Then u-e thi.sji~ IOdriJI the holes inall eigbt 'Iiie"

ADDING 'HE WEI FRAMES

:';0" the ~ldeframes and web frames canbe joined Iogt'th"r 10 make the two basicunits of th.. cab,nel.

ROt.,.OROO\ t:', Tojoin theframes. use •router to CUI ~'.wide grooves on [heinsid... face. of the <ide frames. Thesegrooves are v, from the lOp and bottomedit<' of the frame. and stop \4" from the

_ ....w· .• '.' front edge, see ~·Ig. 9.~== __ :=====================~~====~======~===~=.=~=~==oo==o=",=u==~~~C~t~"'~TQ~NGu£s.Th_e_n_c_U_I_t_w_o_ra__b_be_ts__OD_

Page 15: Woodsmith - 026

15WOOI)SMITIi

TO'VllWCROSS SftTtON

.,.CASf

I:--......,,-J. ...P05mOH-".fIOM

"'" "IOT1ONo

2 '

t , COINrl IOUHOON OUlSiOf fOGES wmt .., SHOUlOD•• .'. •..un ON ALI.OUTSIDE(OGU

OOUI"S

"

~o01 ST1ll ANOlAA ...wIT I. nUSH

ASSlMIllfOAM!

fIOutll)

W)tTtS(SID(_0041'

.....c

ROUU 16

AGUH , ..

I

"-,'----'

c

,/==r?,...... ....T't--'...,··

IV.

i---' L1---'

010 .....~o'tNOH

O(t.&Jt

o

ornu:

h""" cH•I

" ,

MOCf1S( ClHTtIIOON SIOCK''''' ftOM (NoOf SIltt

AC;Ut, 12

- ". _'- __ ....J. Ii.

1.....,..

,",

ClOSS SI(lION

~Utll'the edge! c.f the" eb frames to formwn!tU~. to fit in the greove-, ThL-may takeseme ex~n"",nttng to make sure the tol'i•ee of the web framc lines up with th~ toped~.,o( "tI" fram." _ Fig. 9.00 'III [8 tK.\ 'tJ_....Aft.,. the tongue and

gr'IlOvt·Joints""" cut. the bad< edj!e of th<'web (rame.! Dt'ed, to be trimmed down abit so u's in li,1<'with the shoulder of therabbet on lh. back ,'(I~~oflhe side frame•....... Fig. 10.Option: If 8 mirror I~used instead of

plywood. nobbel the Inside edges of theweb f,llnw. to match the rabbets on the~id(.l Crnm(l!\.~S.'f'''IIl.Y.Finally. dry-assemble the

web fhu",·. and side (ram••, to get thedimt·n.,,,,,. (ur the plyw cod baeks, and cutthe ,*k' tow,·. Then !!iue and clamp therr:.me~ together to form the two unns.ITack the 1.ly.. 00<1bark in place to hold".I')tlunl( JqUlU'e "hill.' th.. glue dries.)

THE000. f~ESNext, the frames (or the dOOM; can be built,no,.,...· (ruml'S art' ~iZ<'dto allow a~'- over­lap on aU (our l'<llles,STILES.,\1) R.llt_~.~·;""t,rip the stDe.

and rail. to a width o(Z'. The length o(thestile. i. equal to the opening in the.. sembled eabinet. plus \10" (to allow for "1'<" overlap on the tall and the bottom).To flllllrt' th(·I~ngth otthe rails. measure

th~ width or th,· opening in the cabinettTh;" ~houldbt. 19 ... ) Then add I!.' (or theoverlap (to It'I the total width of the doortramc·). Subtract 4 fnr the two 2"-widestiles to (let the sheulder-te-sheulderk-ngth of the 1'811,.And finally. add 2" (orthe t .. o I".rf)n~tenons. -ee Fig. II.

From here 011 the procedure for the door(rames I' just like the "de frames: cut theshoulders ...1 corner-round on the inside­edge, then cut • rabbet (or the glass. aMfinall) cut th,' mort;"" and tenon joint s,

RAII8ET. Wlwn the doors are asssembledthey .hQuld be a total of 'Ii' wider andhigher thnn the opt!ning in the cabinet.Then cut n ~~.x 0/," rabbet on t he outsideedge of the frame 10 form the lip. see Fig.1·1.(Note: The robbel i" ~. wide to allowfor the lit overlap, plus a,,' elearancebetween th,' rabbt·t and the frame.)rOR'f.R ROt 'I). Filially, cut a shoul­

d"red "'nIf'r-round above the M1bbet,seefil(. 15.no!! mal<h," the cuts on the insideed~. and makes a nice lip around theout.,jd e o( the door.I)(l()RIII'tit'" The dOOl'!'are mounted to

th~ .. binet with %"-<)(( set hinges. Xor­mally these hmil'" are mounted withoutcutting hlnf,."Cmoruses, However, this ere-­ale, a small gap on th" side o( the cabinet.To eliminate IhL<)rap. 1 decided to cut •motU.....on Iht· side frame 10 accept theinside nal) of the hinge, see Fig. 16. Theother nap i. mounted din>Clly to the door(no mortise i.needed here), see Fig. 17.•

"

Page 16: Woodsmith - 026

WOODSMITH

At this point, the top unit is complete.!'lext. J added a nngle muldingstrip (K) IA)top of the bottom unit. This strip is madeby cutting a shouldered Y,' corner-round •on both edges of the stock, see Fig, 19.The piece for the front of lhe cabinet is

cut to length so the shoulder of the comerround overhangs the front and sides of the

•THi MOLDINGS

At this point the two basic units for thecabinet are builL.All that remains art' themolding pieces that make the cabinetshine. I eut all of these moldings on arouter table using only three standard bits:a 1'<. corner-round bit, a II, eerner-roundbit, and a Y:" cove bit.When routing the profiles for Ihese

moldings. it'. best to sneak upon the depthof cut. That is. don't try to cut the finalprofile in one pass. Instead, makt· severalpasses, raising the bit each time until youreach tbe fuji depth of cut.

MOLDINGS AT THE TOP

There 81" four different molding strips atthe top of this cabinet. Two of these weremade at the beginning of this project: thedentil (I). and molding strip (J).

AIOLf)L"G!lTRU' (J), I started by gluingand clamping molding strip (J) to the frontedge or the cabinet. Thi. front Strip wasalready mitered to length SO the shouldersof the comer-round overhang the side!'ram." by v,," on each end. The tWO stripsfor the sides were cut to rough length.Now they canbe trimmed to final length sothey're flush with lhe back edge of thecabinet, see f'ig. 21.THEIlt;~-ru.Ill. Next. the front dentil

strip is glued in the rabbets of molding •strip (J). Then the side dentil strips are cutto length and glued in place.

~IOL{»"G STRIP (11). To make the tbirdmolding strip (H). rip a piece of stock to arou¢! width of 1liz'. Then cut a I "-wide byl{,,'-deep rabbet on the tOil edge of rbiRpiece, and a 1/,' cove ri¢lt below the rab­bet, see Fig. 18.Then rip this piece to final width so the

back edge is flush with the hack of thedentil, and the front edge (at the bottom ofthe cove) overhangs the dentil V,....

~fOLOfNG STRU' (G). The molding strip(G)at the very top oft he cabinet is made byresowing (ripping 011 edge) a piece ef stockto a thickness of V.", Then one edge isrounded with a tho comer-round bit. andthe top edge is rounded slightly by sand­ing. Then tbis strip is glued and clamped inthe rabbet of molding strip (H).OUSTROARU. To finish off the top of the

cabinet. I added two filler strips 10and P)along the back of the cabinet, see Fig. 21.Then J cut a Y. plywood dust board andtacked it in place.

MOLDING 8ETWEEN THE UNITS

16

/ t~IA.HGU\.A"GLUI MOCK

RUUSTRI'

y.CO«'NfRROUND

wta JIAMI/

~ cow,'---12.

v. coaNER IOUNO )Wlrtf +'... SHOULOO ON IOnt EDGES

J•" .

1---.'---1

-Me J«AME

Page 17: Woodsmith - 026

\VOODSMITH 17

•..- ...- , .. 1."-

v. PlYWOOD 't'. P'tYWOOD...R IR

0 0

R R

S~~

bEEI 1 ~ lin

J Comer-RoundJRobbet '¥••x 2 - 60-MKldI. Mofdittg Section:K DcM.IbI.~ound '¥t. x 2 ..60-

Bottom Molding Section:l Cove ~thShould., ''I,.x 2 ..60·M Dou:bJ. Comer-Round '-VI' Ie IV... ~N Kidt Soatd '..If., x 2~~..60-Fl.'" $tri""o FIot (3) I~ •• 1''\P On Edge: (I' t¥i, II 11'1..

Plywood Ponol,:Q fA" 80da (2) '14• lOY. • 33R y.t Web frome PaneJ, (4) V. x 11 .. 1671.$ V" T.., Panel II) "" to fltT Gkd, Stops(16) '4 .. '/.... 36--This I4tnsth is for th,... pi.ut. aJt to (it.

• I o.ntil

•.,..•• , 71,. -)'r

t.v,LU2L,I:;,tJ;J,J.tj§.!jtil' ,,"1 ..""..1. ""." .In. "."mI ,..,; ,..,I"..",..!n, ,n,rn

IV, •• 1'/. _~.-

I ~ I~,1 U

'\'r•. • TV. -60"

! It I :ci I 0 II ;0 I

Ovllf'Ofl Di:mttmion:s: 73V, .... 1t21lh'W-151.r."DSide Ftomes:A Roils (81 "/, •• l'h • 12'/)8 Sril..,(8' ''ll.x 2·33

Door ftornn:CRain (4) ':VI, x 2 - laYso 5til., (4) ':If,. x 2 - 32

Web Fron\lh:E Roils (Fmtf8k) (8) '¥I•• 1¥. - ltV!.F Stiles (51"") (8) ',/,. x 1¥•• 11

Top Molding SedionlG Com:e, RCM'Id 1;.x ".1, .. 60-H Gow with Shoulder 'V,•• 114 - 60·

CUnlNG DIAGRAMMATERIALSLIST•

~ .., Of!' ,....(J'

, ... STRlPS

"NCO FtNCf

'tJ31,1---""-e

4/;1

I( ~

MUllCOItNtU...., G \..,'L..../GLASS

~i'.... '\

I"~,/"1 IITACKS10'

tN P\ACEWJlH .aAOS

2

RGUI;t 23

t- 1·:._

QJ.:..fOUR PIECES16 lONG

flOUle ,.". <Ct. ... > .OVOIO \4Ll fOUR EDGES

17

BonOM MOlDINGS AND I(ICI( BOARD

There are two molding strips and n kickboard at the bottom of this cabinet.

'IOI.I)IN(; STRIPILl. Molding strip (L) ismade by euttinz n ¥,"-\\;de by 'Y••"-deeprabbet on the edge of a piece of stock, secFig. 20. Then a ~" cove cut is mad. abovethe rabbet. Glue and clamp this strip to thecabinet so there's a ¥"." nat space betweenthe web frame and the cove. Then addthese molding strips to the sides. and cutanother mler strip to fit along the backedge of the cabinet. see ~'ig. 19.

)I01.0I'1G STRII' r'll.Molding strip (~f)isripped to width so it's ~" longer than therabbet in strip (L). Then the top edge ofthis strip is rounded with a 1(," corner­round bit, and the bottom edge is roundedwith a Yo" eerner-round bit.KICKBOARD.f'inally, the kick boanJ is

cut to size and glued and clamped to thebottom side of molding strip (M). To holdth~ kick board steady, 1glued and screwedtriangular glue blocks on the back corners,see Fig. 22.

THE FINISHING STEPS

Before any of the glass is installed, I fin­ished this cabinet with three coats ofHope's Tung on Varnish. This oil finishhasjust enough varnish in it to protect thecabinet, but it's also easy to apply and wipesmooth so I didn't have any problems withdrip marks on the moldings.CLASS.Finally. 1 installed the gla.."Sin

the sides and doors. (I measured the open­ings and asked a local glass store to cutsingle pane glass to fit.) The glass i..held inplace with custom-made quarter-roundstops. (See Figure 23 for the cutting pro­cedure.lTo install these stops, I chucked abrad in a drill and predrilled the holes.

GI.'5SSJIELI·ES. 1 also bad the four plateglass shelves cut to size (with nicely bev­eled edges). Note: The \\;dth of the shelvesShould be about .y,," less than lh. insidedimensions of the cabinet to allow for theL-sbaped shelf supports.CURIOLIGtrrS. Finally, I installed special

curio lights. screwing them to the top ofeach unit. Now it's just a matter ofarranging your favorite collectibles (andshowing off your favorite cabinet).

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cabinet 0/.". Then the two sid~ pieces areadded, and a filler Strip is cut for the back .

I'O$ITIONISGDOWEL. Since the two unitsare not pennanently joined together (..0they can be moved easily). [ added 8 smalldowel pin to position them. Drill. II.'holecentered on the bottom edge of each sideframe of the top unit . see Fig. 19.Then marl< the position of a second hole

on molding strip (K), When this secondhole is drilled, make sure the top unit ispositioned on molding strip (I\) just likethe bottom unit is.

Page 18: Woodsmith - 026

WOODSMlTH

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•earner-round profile .• topping thismolding cut ¥. from each corner. see Figs,4 and 5.

When making these cuts, it's best tosneak up on the depth of cut to preventexcessive chip-out, The final pass shouldbe made so there's a%."shoulder betweenthe faceo(the frame and the comer-round,see cross-section views in Figs. <1 and 5.

OTHE1t MOLDING STRIPS

To complete the frame, Ladded three moremolding pieces: a chamfered cap piece (C)that's mounted above the dentil, and twoother mQlding strips mounted along thebottom edge of the frame (E and F),

THBCAP. The cap piece (C) i$just a stripwith chamfered edges, see Fig. 4. Thelength of this piece is a total o( 0/, longer

mitered "heels" on the backside ofth~ den­til. To get this length, measure the "heel­to' heel" distance between the miters, andsubtract 4" (or the two 2'·wide stile s, Thisgives you the shoulder-to-shoulder mea­surement for the rails. Then to get the finallength of the rails, add 2" for the twoI"·long tenon s.After the rails and stiles are cut to size. I

assembled the frame with mortise andtenon joints, see Figs. 1 and 2.

RABBETS FOR ~llIlROR. After the Iramewas glued together. Icut a y,;"" 0/,( rabbeton the back side to accept the mirror. (SeeShop No~s, page 22, for a description ofthe routing technique used to do this.)

MOLI'EOL'1SIO£0;1)(:':' Finally, I thoughtit would be nice to spruce up the insideedge of the frame by routing a shouldered

•18

Thin~ aren't alway. as t hey appear. Likemirror images, the look$ of this wallmirrorecat rack are 8 little deceiving. Forone thing. it looks like it might be difficultto build. It's not.

For another, m~' natural incUllationwould be to build the mirror's frame andthen add on the decorative molding. Butjust the opposite is true.On. of the nlolding strips should be cut

before the frame is built, This "backwards"approach is necessary to get the properspaeing for the dentil (lhe strip of evenlyspaced blocks at the top of the frame).

When thL~strip is mounted to the frame,there should be a full-width block lit ea ehend. The only way to make sure tbe endbllK'ks are full \\';dth is to cut the dentilfirst, then build the frame to fit.

THE DENTll

There are a total of three dentil pieces: onealong the top Qf the frame, and two shortpieces at the ends. To cut these pieces Istarted with a piece of oak 1V'- widE'and40" long. (fhis piece is longer than neededto allow (or some waste when the threepieces are cut.)

Then [used a cutting jig to CuIa series ofy,··wide kerfs, le.,';og ..,-wide "blocks"to (arm the dentil. see Fig. 3. (A completedescriptio» of this jig is given in '"ShopNotes," page 22.)

CO">: err. After the kerfs were cut, 1added a cove cut along the bouom edge ofthe dentil strip. Place the denLilstrip racedown on the router table and make pro­gressively deeper cuts with a .,. cove bituntil there's 8 )I." shoulder bet ween theeeve and the back of the dcnril strip, seer'ig. 3,

)lITERfNG TII.~CORNk:RS. At t.his point,the den til can be mitered to length.Ideally, the length of this strip should be311{, • and have a full ¥.:"block at each end.At least, that's the way il works out onpaper,In realiw, it'. almost impossible to cut

the kerfs and blocks with perfeet spacing,So the actual length of tho dentil will haveto be altered slightly to get a (ull·\\';dthblock on each end.

THE FRAM!

Once the dentil is cut to final length, thefinal dimensions o( the fl'ame can be estab­lished. The height of the fr.une is optional- I made it 16', and cut the two stile.(vertical pieces) 2' wide by 16" long.However, the outside width oflhe frame

must equal to the distance between the

__ A_n_tigueWall MirrorREFLECTIONS ON TIME'S PAST

Page 19: Woodsmith - 026

19

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CUTTING DIAGRAM

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MATERIALS UST

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1 of ",d..·te)C'ft"ate a ¥a.- overhang on thefront ffig., RUI in order 10 ha, e enou~",dt h to ."m(, rtsblv rout the cbamf('l' onth<' f",l· ••r th,. !>Il~(',I CUIit2': \\'ld. 10start, and Ihen trimmed u re size after theehamf, .... werv routed.

80lTO'i '101.111'(:,Tb" same procedurei. us«1 to cut th(' two molding piece. forIhe boll om "flh. frame. Roth pieces startout 3' "ide,Tb(,11cUI th,' eov,'<Imolding' strip (EI to

Icnj:th "I u "qual. 111t>total length ru theframe, rlu5 IY', (Tbi. extra amountali"". for V," on each end for the ~:" covecut and th.~" boulder, see Fij!\ 5.) Afteril"rut 10h'nj:th. rout a ~" cove along thefront edJ(e and b...th ends,The other .tnp (F) I' rut to length '" it's

a totnJ of t'," I.... than the fir<t one. (Thi­treal.,; a 'tI.".houldcr between these twoJ1lQldln~.tn!> , see FIg. 5,) Then rout thisstrip with • ~" corner-round bit. lea"n!! ay..• h"\lld,'rAfter the.. 1'1('l'('. art' routed. they're

lrimmed 10 filial Width: I ,." for the eovedpiece (E). 1v. fnr th... bouldered comer­round I'i('(:(' (t'),

ATTACHING THE TRIM

Aft.r nil th,' trim "icl"" WC~ finished, I,tftrtcO attaching them to the frame,To mount th,' t,,1' cap piece and the denul

-trip. glu. thl\,·.pacer blocks on topof therranw, see Fill I;'Then glue and clamp the(n.nt denlil strip ttl the frame <0 it's even"ith th<' 1"1'~rtbe '1'"-('('1' bloeks,\\1>.." that', dry. mner the two corner

1" eees or dentil to length '0 ther're flush.. llh the back oflhe f""me, And irlue themin place.",.;r",1. nl~ ( \I' t·lnaU~.center the top

cap pi,ow « ') un the <lentil. keeping it Ilushwith tht: back ufth,' frame. Glue and clampit on tot>of thl' r.:lu~blocks and dentil.

R(m'U'1 ,.,'HII'l;, Finally, glue ..nd ciampthe two bottom molding slrip$ (E and F)logNhcI', wnlcril1l( them on top of eachother "11h their back ed!1C$ flush, Thenj.~u~ thi. """'lIIbly to the bottom of thefram, , "'t' FiK, ",

fiNISHING TOUCHES

After all tho ~Iu(' "lL> dry on the trimj>1<C('" I >and<d the entire frame andstained It with "In"''LX X.tura! Pine rutin,Then Ifinished II""ht\\'o coaU'of~tin",axAntique Oil nn"'h.I ru.d th,' mllror cut to <ize at a local

g'a"8 ('ompan)' an(1 In!'-talled it v.ith apo.<ter board "".kiml and pu.h pm>. """Fig. ti, Tb~n I ulI<talll>dthe "acorn" coalhook. so they w.re .".nly spaced acrossthe width of the botlom mil. And finally. Iu.-ro two milTOl'hantl..... (see Fig. 6) tohang Ihis mirror (I1\01e,

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\VOODSMITIi20

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bits are measured in millimeters. ratherthan inches), and are actually only one partof a complete merrising' sys.. m that's in­corporated into the Inca )0" table saw.Although the mortise drill" are designed

for \I.'" at :~ HP!Il of the Inea table saw,they actually look Iike a route)' bit (more sothan the end miU router bits. which aft'router bits).The mortise drills have two straight

flutes (similar to most straight routerbits), and shanks that are slightly largerthan the cutting diameter. The only obvi­ous differenee i. their length (the 10mmbitis over tWlong). and the obvious nicks inthe cutting edge."'Why in the devil are there nick; in the

cutting edge?" That was my Ii""t questionwhen Isaw these bits. But until I eon­iaeied Garrett 'Vade (whieh sells a com­plete line of Inca woodworking tools), Ididn't have the foggiest idea what possiblepurpose they could serve. Garrett Wadeinformed me that the nicks were actuallychip breaker> and were indeed intentional,not accidental.The mortise drills actually perform two

operations: drilling; and routing. Butthey'>'. desi!(lled to excel when used todrill out the waste of a mortise. ratherthan trying to rmll it out. Nevertheless,the drill' can be used to do a limitedamount of routing when making the finalcleanup passes on a mortise.IlKI!.!. J'RE$l;. Using the Seal's drill

press, we couldn't duplicate the speed(3800 RPM) these bits were designed for, :;0we settled on using the closest selting,42-50 ItI·M.

Al this speed, the bits performed as wellas we could have wanted. Our major con-

c) llfORTISE .lflLLER HITSD) SEA/iS .lfORTISING BITS

not drill- bits, there'. no center point toget in the way atthe bottom of the mortise.

ROL'TERS. When I used thesse bits in arouter, they worked perfecrly, (Note:Most end mill bits require a router with atleast a I't'chuck rapacity. See Sources. onpage 2-1 for more information.)

URII.I.PRESS. However. when I usedthem in the drill press, there were a fe"drawbacks stemming from the fact thatthese bits arc designed to be used atspeeds from 20,000·25.000 RPM. Un­fortunately. the fastest speed setting on011.-Sears drill press is 8-500 RPM. And atthat setling, it sounds like it's ,,,,,,ely fortaklH>ff.At this relatively slow speed, the bit

develops a strong tendency to grab thework piece. The best method I found toeliminate this problem was to use both afeather board to secure the piece againstthe fence. and StOPblocks at both end. tolimit the length of the mortise.

CO)(CLI'SJO:'-S. Although the spiral endmiUbus cut an extremely clean mortise.running the drill press at its rastest speedju.t plain scares me. And common sensesays if I'm operating a machine whilescared.jhe chance ofi!\illr)' increases dra­matically. So in the end.I would,," use thespiral end mill bits on a drill press, eventhough they can produce a very cleanmortise,However. if a router;' used to cut the

mortises, these are the only bits I'd use.THE INCA MORTISE DRILLS

The unique aspect oflbe inca mortise drills(Ill is that they're designed sololy for cUL·ting slot mortises. They're manufacturedby the Swi.. firm Inca (which is why the

AI SPIRAL END MILL BITSBI I.V(,A J.IORT1SE DRILLS

MORTISING BITSTraditionally, mertises were cut by hand.This required using some pruttv heftychisels, and a 10Lofpaticnec to chop out thesquare-ccrnered mortise. Fortunately.there are quicker, and easier methods toproduce a mortise.On. of the best alternatives is to mao

chine cut •• Int mortise (which has roundedcorners, rather than square corners). Thisvariation on the traditional.tyle is not onlyeasier to cut, but it's also j\lst as streng.(See page 7 for a detailed description oncutting a slot mcrtise.)'Vith the multitude or bits on the mar­

ket, I decided to try driUing a mortiseusing-the two most common bits: t\ViKL andbrad point bits. Unfortunately, neitherone is designed to overcome the uniqueproblems of cutting a SIOIDlO''1j~.And inthe end, they usually tum out being notb­ing more than a SOUl'l.'C of frustrarion.\Vith this in mind. 1decided to test five

specialty bit. specifically designed for cut­ting mortises. And to make an "apple> toapples" comparison between this widerange of bits, I decided to test only tbe v.'diameter bit from each group.I also tried several different ",ethud. of

cutting the mortise. in an effort to 6nd,and overcome, the individual quirks ofeaeh bit. Initiallr 1used only Ihedrill pressand a fence, and tried cutung tb. morti se"both with, and without, drilling the endholes: and with completely overlapping,~tightly cverlapping. and non-everlappinghole.. to clean out the waste.After trying all of these procedures. if

the mortise still wasn't up to par, Itried toimprove the setup by adding Slop blocks,featherbeards, etc, And as each new aidwas added, I tried all of the cutting pro­cedures again until I found the combination that produced the cleanest mortise,Each section listed below includes a de­

scription of tbe bits. and how they're de­signed to be used. '\\'e've 31.0 given theresults of our shop test s, including theadvantage. ant] disadvantages of eaeh bit.

SPIRAL END MILL ROUTER BITS

The spiral end mill router bits (AJ areheavy duty router bitsdesigned for plunl!~routing operations. Because they're de­signed for the limited up and down travelon a router. they have. rather shallo\\depth of cut (the V,j'diameter bit can onlydrill. 1·-deep hole).What really makes these bit.; special is

the facl thatt hey can be used either to routfrom side to side. or to make a plunge cut(drill), And because they're router - and

•Tools of the Trade

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21\VOODSM1TH

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•cern was whether or not the bits would bits are desil!"ed for routing. rather than clean mortise. In fact about the only com-create a lot of chattering, whipping. or drilling, they pose some problems when plaint I have against them i. that they'rewalking due to their extreme length. used on the drill press. First of all, the drill rather slow cut ling. (Part of this problemBut the only problems I en<'Qunt.red press really isn't designed to handle the stems [rom the slow speed - 1000RP~I_

eceurcd when r drilled overlappina holes, sideways pressure of routing. If the bit is recommended for these bits.) If there areOr when l lowered the bit into the wood too used for routing on a regular basis. the several mortises to be cut, this can becomequickly. Both these procedures pulled the results usually show up <1$ excessive play a real factor.bit slightly off course. I eliminated both in the quill. The method I found to produce theproblems by simply drilling non-overlap- To use these bits properly in a drill cleanest mortise was almost exactly theping holes. and reducing the rate of feed. press, the chuck should be replaced with a same as used with the Inca mortising bits.Compared to the spiral end mill bits, Lhe routing collet. (See page 2.1 for more in- CO)l('I,l'SIOSS.Not only do the Sears bits

Inca mortise dril ... produced very little formation on Sears routing cellet.) produce a very nice mortise, but they'regrabbing of the workpiece, SOstop blocks For fimited use on the drill press. how- also the least expensive bits we reviewedor feather boards were not required. (But I ever, these bits CULa very quick, clean ($.'1.49 for the ~. bit).would still use them anyway.) More severe mortise. BUL<1$ usual, there are some steps SEARSMORTISINGCHISEL/BITSpullinll did occur as the diameter of the bit that help make the work go smoother.increased. First of all, J found that the bits pro- \\'hile I was in 3 testy moon. I decided toCOSCI.tlSIO)lS.Not only do the Inca mor- dueed a cleaner cut if end holes were not check OUL8 .ystcm sold by Seal'>!fOI' cut-

Lisedrilb; produce a clean mortise, but they drilled. Instead, I routed the mortise by ling a traditional square mortise USingaalso do it at.a reasonable price (the 6mmbit making ~~. deep passes (starting on the drill PI'C<'S.The heart of this system is acosts $9.(0). And these are the only bits right end of the mortise and routing [rom unique chisel that has • bit running rightcapable of producing' a very deep mortise one end 10the other), and used stop blocks through its center. The idea is that the bit(up to I:Y,·). to Umit the length of the mortise. removes the m'liority of the waste, leaving

PROFESSIONALMORTISEMILlfR BITS Although I thought the se bits would the chisel to "cut" the corners square.have a tendency 10grab the workpiece, in Although this tI)'Stemdoes what it's des-

The professional mortise miller bits (C) are practice the cut Is smooth enough that a igned for (cutting a square end mortise), Ialso manufactured (or U"-I' with the Inea 10' feather board i.'n·t required to secure the c:ouldn't get it to produce a mortise withtable saw mortising system. But unlike the workpiece against the fence, checks as clean as the other bits reviewedmortise drills, the professional miller bit. CO'1CIXSIOSS.Unfortunately, routing here, And when the price cfthis system i~all have ~." shanks, and their diameters with these bits puts too much pressure on c:onsidered (around $50.00 with all of theare de.i~ated in inches. the quill of the drill press to e..eate any- extras), rei prefer euttinl( a cleaner slotThe most unusual aspect, of these bits is thing but trouble do" n the road. \Vith this mortise and just pare (10\'0"11 the corners.

in the way they remove mate.ial. The mor- in mind, I CIUl't recommend Ulling these CONCLUSIONStise miller bits are clesigqed to remove the bits for use on a driU press.waste in 3mortise by routing (or milling). SEARSDRill PRESSMORTISEBITS The bit we preferred is the Scars mortiserather than drilling (they can drill. but do bit. It's slow, but it gets the job clone. Ourso reluctantly). In the past, the ml\iority of mortises used second choice is the Inca mortise drills.Since the bits are de;;i~ed for the slow for the projects in lVoodsmitll have been For cutting a lot of mortises, or cspt",ially

speed of the Inca mortising system (3800 cut !illn!: the Sears drill press mortise bits deep mortises, this is the bit to use.RP)I,compared tj) the 2.5.000RPMof many (D). One nice aspect of these bits is that The professional mortise miDer bits arerouters). II very unusual edge is used to they're desi~ed specifically for dnlling good, but require using the drill press in agive them their routing capability. SIOlmortises on the drill press. manner it's nOI really dcsi~ed for (rou-One of lhe bit's two cutting edges is The cutting edge on these bits is rather ting). The spiral end mi.l bits are also good

serrated. It's this ser rated edge that ae- unusual. It's located on only the very out- bits, but the noise created while runningtually hogs off the waste as it's routing. side rim of the tip - similar to a Forstner the drill press at 8500 RPMis more thanThen the second CUlling edge, which re- bit. There's also a single Oute on the side of anyone here i. willing to put up with.sembles the flute on a normal straight the bit to provide room for chip removal. (However, they're the bits to use in arouter bit. follows lh"ough and cleans The Scar. mortise bits are extremely router.) And when it comes to the Scarsthings up, ea...oy to use. and require no additional jil!" square mortise chiselibil, to be honest, noIIMIt.I,PRESS.Because the mortise miller (such as a feathe.· board) 10produce a very one here could justify its expense.

COMPARISONS FOR 'I. MORTISINGBITS

aHOmm,nclecJ Mollimum Shonk Ov.mU Sites Stop 8loc:k, Flt01h.r 800"" Pri(oBih Speed bep.h of Cui 01ome'.' length Available Requi...d Required 1/....Bit

$pi101 E.d 25.000R~ 'I," w, Of 1/.- 3;'1.- 1/s: ~,.: :J".4YES YES $9.00

Mill Bib I}J., ~ ..

In~G 3800 RPM lV.· 6mmlV., ." 6",m,8mm NO NO $9.35Mortise OriU. 10mm. l'2tnm

McHti.. 3800 RPM 111.- 'I. 3~- w, '1••-, Ji," YES NO $'8.50Min.r 8in In.-, ~.

Soo,. 'OOQ RPM I' V.' 2" 'I...., ~'••, I/i" NO NO $.3_49Mortiting Bitt

Seo" $quo,.. 6-400 RPM 1'/." Oo.s Not 6- '/'., ~.". y,,- YES YES $51.97Chi ...lJli~ Apply

Page 22: Woodsmith - 026

WOODSMITH22

•For the next cut (and all the foUo"1ng

euts), place the newly cut kerf over theindexing pin, and make another pass, Thi$sequence is repeated for the entire lengthof the denlil.

('Lt:,,,-.; UI'.The bottom of the kerfs ";11probably be a little rough. I used a sharpchisel to "plane" the bottom of each kerf.

•"OSITIOS rue FE~CE. Next. clamp the

plywood fence to the miter j!auge, andposition it so lhe distance between theindexing pin and the righlside oCthe bladeequals the width of the blocks you want forlbe dentiL see Fig. r. (I wanted ;.It',wideblocks. so 1positioned the pin "'. from theblade.)Check this measurement by nicking the

edge of the plywood fence with the dadoblade. If the distance between the nick andthe pin is correct, drill the pilot holes in thefence and attach it to the miter j!auge withpan head SCl'eWS and wsshers .cerKEII~'SL" OE~T[L.To cut the kerfs in

the derail, raise the dado blade to a \l,i'depth ereut.Then butt the end of the stockagainst the indexing pin. and make a passover tbe dado blade. see Fig. 2.

under the depth of cut you want (or thekerfs. (Iwanted tbe kerfs to be \01." deep. so1 set the depth of cut fur- the notch toapproximately '1'.... )Shop Note: The ''e8S0n for the lower

depth o( cut for the notch is to reduce theoize of the indexing pin that fits in it. Thisassures that the dentil will rest fiat on thesurface of the table saw. and not on the topof the pin .'IlIE PIN. After the lIoLCb is cut. tut a

1Yo·,longinde~;ng pin to exactly the samewidtb and height a.othe notch. and glue itinto the notch.

•ery work, it creates a problem when itcomes time to rabbet out the back of theframe «(or the glass or mirror).The easiest way to cut this rabbet is with

a router. But router bits have a tendencyto chip out the bottom edge of the rabbet,which in this case is the edge that ,,;11 beseen. Even taking a very light passdoesn'tseem to eliminate the problem.To cut a rabbet with 8clean edge. 1use a

technique that in"ol\'es,lighlly scoring theedge ofthe frame before cutting the rabbetto full width,

TIlE SCORING I'ASS. The first step is tosecure the frame to u pl)'\\'ood base bytacking stops at all four sides. Then mounta rabbeting bit (that has a pilot) in therouter. ann set the depth of cut to matchthe finished depth of the rabbet,The trick for the scoring pass is to move

the router counter-cloekuns« around theinside of the frame. Thi~ i. the oppo~itedirection ofwhat's normal. (Note: US(> therouter hand-held. This technique docs notwork well when the router is mounted to arouter table.jThe eut produced with this method is

very smooth (there's almost no chip-out).The only problem is that the width of thescoring cut is somewhat difficult to controlbecause the bit wants to bounce off theedge as it's cutting, Try to make it aboutYo' wide.Alter the edge is scored. cut the rabbet

to full width, but this time rout in thenormal direction (clockwise).

CUmNG DENTll

There are two project,,; in this issue thaLuse a special molding called a dentiL This L;simply a series of 1I,",\\;de kerfs cut alongthe length of a solid pieee of stock to createevenly spaced V.-·wide blocks.

RII' ~'TOCKTO WWTII. The first step ipmaking the dentil is to rip the stock towidth. I rip it slightly wider-than neededsoany chip-out on the back side of the kerfscan be removed when the dentil is trimmedto final width.TilE CL'TI'ING JIG. Then a cutting jig is

made to space the kerfs consistently alongthe entire length of the dentil. To makethis jig, cut a '1'<" plywood fenee approxi­mately S" high and about 24" long.Then cut a notch near the center of the

fence for an indexing pin. The width of thisnotch must equal the width of the kerfs youwant for the den til. (Since 1 wantedv.-,";de kerfs, this meant using a dado setto cut a Y.-,wide notch.)The height of this notch sbould be a tad

is close to a true circle. Iused an expansion<hill toscore the outside edge ofthe recess.Then I removed the majority of the

waste in the recess "ilh a router and a v,­st''aight bit. Set the depth of cut to ap­proximately three-fourths the thickness ofthe inlay and rout to within about \01." ofthe score line. To remove the remainingwaste (out to the score line). I used a sharp1'1" chisel.

)1Ot:l''TIN{; THE INLAY.To mount the in,lay, apply a eoai of contact cement in therecess and also to the "back" of the inlay.(Note: The side with lhe brown IlaPCI' isactually the front. or top side.)

Press the inlay into the recess (with thepaper side up) and place a ,;oft·wood blockover the inlay and tap it in place with ahammer. Then place a board on top of theinlay to clamp it down (and even it out).Finally. sand the inlay Ilush with the sur'face of the board.

ROUTING RABBETS IN A fRAME

Two projects in this issue (the \\'all ~lirrorand the Spool Cabinet) have frames thatare built with standard mortise and tenonjoinery. Although this simplifies the join,

=IroUT OUT

_PROlfCnVf VENEER

ROUTING A CIRCULAR INLAY

A marquetry inlay is a nice way to add atouch of ela_", to any project. The onlyproblem is getting it mounted. For theSpool Cabinet in this issue, I used • "star,burst" inlay. which is a circular shape andis a little easier to work with,This inlay comes mounted ill a rec-

•angular piece of veneer-s- sort of an inlaidinlay. Th~ [U-,;I thing to do 's remove theinlay itself by gently cutting around it.perimeter (with an X,Acto knife). andthrollgh the paper backing, (This backingis actually veneer tape that hold, all Lheindividual pieces oflhe pattern together.)crrnxc Tilt: R~:C.;SS.When the inlay is

removed, measure it~diameter and cut. arecess to lit. Beeau..e th;" particular inlay

____ S_h_o~NotesSOME TIPS FROM OUR SHOP

Page 23: Woodsmith - 026

23

SlltsSCOt<.lHtlATlOH......

"lADfS

Jerry [AktRr<ll'n<to Bear! . Califo""a

CONCENTRATlD STRESS

I" \Vnodl'lmilh \'1), 2":, a reader i,..IIOtl'l""ralk'lltrT :ihtlp" lCfctio)( tttclrfiol,ed tIlttl'Ollhlr I" Ilmlwith hi. Srars ro"t er <lisi,,·lel1mlillY II'hi/< II< ;lIg I/ ••,d It" II,. "'ood­~mith router tubtr, Thr 3(I/)lt $eqIICllC( oft'l'rlll.t J,ll/Ilk ,,~(lin "'~',SOI took the rout"'" [or r« ,.,,,. ,1(1, r J gol il ha<k. it [ailrd8i~/jilorly (ffl, r IJI "'g uli.d t)lf("rn ittentlll((I" ol",ul ("Ie ho"r..4. a n'NM,r,rol t'. qIJt,· r $ptc-iali;fflg

I" ,tN'.u ataal .'13. J ~'1l. "y inter­tI',d '" ocna!""'u rou. ng 'h,u/ailu.re,.I{'k"" I tramu"'- tAe "'U'n- cio&li/' IdlMOt'rrrd a ,...~ poor [an dt ••g•• The [anII "~"'IIa <"tap P't(~ 0.1 $h,tt metal.rcn,yh11l rill a ,I 4It:" p"f Into the Ja,(.hllf'< At tJ. mol nJ ro,hj"t! blade(uheretlrq )(1'" tl,#' h.ull) '8 (I ftrll !'tharp COMf"",1, "k C1Yfll'iI ,(·Iul' ,~ kHOl17l as a stree«"fJllff ~,tntfl'I" (')1' ¥'1\,~8tt,ay"ifier), 7·I,i.r('t,.IJ3 rUUCt'Illmti"I# ll'ill n$ltit ill pM"Ul·IIII't (iul''''r of I)" Jilll d lie 10 IiIttlllllltigllt••• ("''1'",' if ,t ill "~'I"C"8trlt(k by [Ortig1'

\\'OOOSMITH

Richard Haas('Iijlmt. ,'\'.". J.,.".y

A (our·m·hancl ra'I' i. a combination Ira'p and file that h ... ono:Olit side, and oneCUI'\'M (e<>n\ex' side, On l'&Chside. therean- two di(("T('nt tooth arrangements,I?'\ mil the 1001 a total ef four diffeftotC'UttlnJ,T !'urfal.."\: ....On the nal .. de of th e four-in-hand,

there', It coorse me on one end. and aCOII..f't'e nLf;J) on lhf' other, Then on the con-­vex side, u ha~ 8 fint' file on one end and afine rasp en th~ other.Anothl'r f"alurp of'the four-in-hand rasp

i.. tht· ..l1l'('nceof teeth 00 ils edges. [',.found Ihal thi. is ~ally handy wheneverI'm roun(lillR lhl' l'Omcr~of a tenon. I canne.tle Ihl' r •• p riltht up next to the~houlrl"r o( Iht· If'non ,,;thout won;;nj(about marring Ihe .houlder of the tenon. IAnd \\ hen you cOll>id(·rthe cost (they're

u.'uaJly 11'111101>1,·from any lora! bardware<tore (or ~-.$l<.(I(),.irs well worth ha\'ingin the .hol'

SMAtL CHISELS ON WATER STONES

Aj1t'T rrad , g II" artcrl~ u \\'oodsmith."0 . .:..; "" h"u' 9'.1(.1 fhl JO{JOII($t lrat~r,ttmts IN''rr'. I 0"/. n:J tj" 12(WJ-grit, all(/tltt S·I fur IJr(lrpt. 'Iil'f/ ,tlY jtt/littlillgkt,it,t!.•.

lViII, lA, 1.'00 grit .'one. Iher<'Cf'1'¬ 110,,,obit mo, J ,,,.1 "sed it likr my <On·""Iionulolm,t •. Fil'$1 J luhricated it .<'ill,".. ,..... Ih,n I plate<l II"bladr Uti tI,t sloll'"'il', II,,.rultlug ('llg' fi,rtI1'I'd, ol,d pr(Jthtdf"r"'f,rrl '\'114:"tJ"'JIn<f .,d,. },ad prvJl{t1tt'do IC'IN' (,1,,1',I I",.., ({ 'hI" b/(llif" D(,,"';-,0",11,ldUcf " Itl llflrd!4 "f , ({ff:,,",,,h••g """,Il .. t I ,r ".,.1 J 11'" to

In, !'·l "0' t .\0 "''''it' /01' 0'" t/~tA~blad, tI'CI& p.a)" tor til, ,urfa,~ oj t}";;./, I rould"I helpbKlI ad up f"~..,rfw:,oj til, .,"., TA, "'arp "'-0' oj rn~blad,liar K.-pl d '(I9"'II,n to tlu! ,"rfau

Flnal/y. J Ji>"nrl that if I r"eCt'nll:dth,pro<••• 0."'/ prrl/'d Ih~ blar/r tm'Ylrd " '0"bolh .i<lra 11I'tlle IHItI. /h, /,mhl,,, o[ th"bntl dlY1l' "9 '"tn 11,('.tt"ifni'r o..f tile al0' r11118 tl"nJ1I,r!NI.

'OUR.IN.HAND RASP

l'sn hn t't "9 a nurd lil/lt fi tldl fIg a" al'~u'e"toa q'tl',~ti(llt,O)llllligltred ifa;lyon~(ou/(1all~ft ...r it, !lUll <UIC/<I.AC/lwllll, it's ,.alher.ifllple. 11'11111;8 a [lmr·j'l·hand TO.1P'

SlARS COLLETCHUCKS

'\'("'\,(!' received 8('\ eral letrers fromreader ... \Ii hu "ere having trouble ob­tainl!lj( Ih~ coliN chuck (or the Sears drillpre-s. Accnrclin~to one subscriber, thecatalol: dt'partm('nl at their local Seal':'stor~ told tht·m th~ part WQ, no longerQ\·ail"bl<,. Whl'll WI' <onlnewd our loc.,1Scars cataloj!' ctefl::lrtrnf.!nl (\\'~ cVeJl pro-­vided th{'m "ith Ih~ old part number). weWOrt· told they couldn't find any info.·­malin" :tl all un tht· J,art.

So \\~ ,h'Ciclt~1tu track down tbe manu-Ifacture:.' I.fthe &."", orilll''''$' w lind outifthc~' kn< \\ o(anolh(.r wure. (or the colletchuck. Ac<t.rdmg 10 \'iki \·ander(~rcl.l'rocIucI ~Ianagl'r of the Emert'On Elt'CtricCo. ,Ihl' manufacturer- of the SeaN drillpre,,), not onl) ., the part a,ailable. it',e\'en Ibtod .n the :'.ar~ 19~2 I<o'l toolc:u.al~~. •

Anti ~urt t:ntnIJlh. it't~li!~t(.'flun page75 asOb)fr/. xlIrI, " •• 'l/,./ ch.p.. " "lIoldin): Collar for Collet Chuck andA/ 1/,. /rig" Hilt tI'.3' r.mttT.• lliT... End ~lil"." Stock II !I CT Ufi7'l. $12.!I'J.

tI,t" IS a ('(I;,~,(/I'f'(Ib/f ,'It rt'.(g [norl i,t (Ill' On(\ C)( I hp rt'U.:--4ln" itOH HO ca.I.(jJ)·o,'erlookedfall ,/rr, II) ,., 1I1.~til{/al a),d aerot/Yllami< L, b<>c.... u...• it'. not pictured. And to top it[UlTt•. Wlttll (IIIobird impa<isolle oft1!e~c orr. the d•• cription of lhe 11&1.implies thatb/ad, •• 011 orldili,mul.trt3 .• i& in/rot/ICe"d it', only a holding t'OlIar, rather than IhetI 11(1,,,,IY,.if't ,1"11 tIlt Ittrt'fll( ('(I'f(,~ltrciio". actual collet (hu('k.Tlt(1 'o'nl "t,.,,8 IUIlll tllf II Ix_'},;gh r;u(Jllghto Ju,;,t t(, bt~)'IU~ that this. \\"8S lhe samertJtlllt n~f/J(,,.a' ""uftJIc;_bl(Jd~ \,'hNtlh'R f\'t.rt that \\"f.> rt"\'i~\\edin l\·oot!sIJl,.ith No.J,_(JJ'~t('&. ar f,,,bala,,~( OC"C'r,nt,,",ch II 12, "t·on:lt.·rt:'d un,1 (n,m th(.' Se.a.r.; catalo,Rlun .....wlu n h 'II b",/O" 1,1,<,1.,jf th.' dr·l.artmvnl. f.\·en though IhcJ originallyro tt, " >101.hul "11 qultklll, Thi3 ,,.. couMo't find an)' infonnatwo on it. theyqu" of 1$ ...... '11 d, 1",<1 ... to tJ,~ .ure didn't ""'-iu.te talung our order. And_I" 10"'II lA, It'IUI it ,..'"" .,actly the 1Wn<' a.. th~ one weA .oh/l on ",wid ~ had by;tlIRg a 1'\'\;.\\('<1..... nh olie ex~ption; the pnc ..

.mall. IuJll "",ltd IITVO'" 01 u.. b(a,J, Itub had jumped (rom &'.99 to $12.99 (1n I"",.nt~,.t't't N. h ,t lleu 1.1aJ'II(J~/IlIJlIUJt ro.<.:' th."nt~o )'pus).~(J,("t, V' jor LA,. rol,trr IInn"Jactur~r. I 1 can ~ee It noYt.t,\,O boat~ in the middleIlY/"I,1 , 01f"f'r',,) '", ,ufl Iti.J"r Ill' a fe-fOgt of lh~ Allanll(" lock~ in a tight raCE'for"St", .at'''', ,", (e", """'/({ Itlltlt tt) bP d?/· lht" ArT\f'nea'~ CUI" An(1 a~ if lO ease th~"(1"" ..,111(IXltll"t:f({ ,v1(ru'Clrds. ten.·..iont ont.·I.e thf.1 ~ail()~ It'atlS o\'e.r and

Robn1 E. Drt>III1UIl 1\'11,."J ,.,(~It't.1""1 """ Pnrier.cabl, whbllt''''', "My broker i.E.t'. Hutwn andOrlllad. Cali/anlia I[u"/Ilt rl/l R... kll'd/J "1Il1,·r.'''eft ...' Ihillg he ,;ay_ 'in\'(',l in drill pre:;s ac'('C"Sories.·..--------------------~------------------~-----

AN OPEN FORUM FORCOMMENTS AND QUESTIONS------,-..,.......",...

I took,.d at jftJ." tit, fan It r.~oJ-Si",iifJrd~it'!I,t tu fit .. .sft, r:c jll',. but tlu: lI'Qrk"lal~­$11'P i,Ik ttrr, (J u,l ,"U,oft , lIt IXlrtonlty, it haltIIIrpm';(//llI/" dr.'enbed ""/(It'eIl IItar tiltIlIIb. 1',0 t't ,'"1 11(,,1 (l"Y fl"'Jblem. ,,,,ti, tI,isroutt·r. 1111,1 I IIIlI'l' "'I'd il rDlIlIide'1'OOly.E"(II /I·it/I Ilif illlprOt'fli./il» (iNrigll. J

[N't tI,at a 10.'1/'""Qr<yl> 1''OOd (hip tchunk}collid ('a,'lfl (J 1j,,,,,/tJr l)roblr'Jf. For fJ,i.IIin'U~ult. J /OJJ1rn fir,. hO.I((! [nnn 1111/:-:/1(111,'C'lrlif/t tir(lr 'n, N,.,t,·r bcJ'l' SQaJt to Illf";'

"'I:t tlu! ('},lp pn,bl,.",

·..........gShopTa

Page 24: Woodsmith - 026

WOODSMlTH24

I

Highlolld Hardwar«J(M~/I.'. Highland A... NEAtla,tlo. Georgia ;jIM()6Teley/,ortJ!: (800) .!~1·67$8Y' die., Yo" .han\; #10.45.07-$9.00v....dia., 1/,'" shank; 810.45.01-$9.000/," dio., y,' shant.; #10.45.02-$9.50'Vo' dlo.,1I0'shank; "10.45.08-S10.000/. dlo.,Yo .hank; # 10.45.03-$10,00v.' dlo.,'I' .hank; #10.45.04-$11.500/. dlo.,Y,' shank; #10.4S.05-$24.50

I\'oodrroj'f Sltpply41 AtlOl,lir .4.Lie.Bo-x 4(1()(}Woburn, Massachlue//8018/!$1'tlcp/um ... (ROO) m·lI:;'1

1/....dio., V,'" shank; #03K42-NT-$9.30¥,"dia.jl/iO!shonk;#03K43-NT-$11.7S'h"dia.,Yo:l"shonk;#OlKS2-NT-$11.85'14"diG., 1/,l'Ishonk;#03KS3-NT-$30.S4PROFES;;tONAL~IORTISE lllLL£R BITS.

Again, we found two catalog sources forthe serrated professional mortise millerbits: Garrell Wade. and HighlandHardware.Garrett IVadelin A t'CI"'. Qf th«AwmtllsN~wYork,S.". York loolJ1"'eplloo.: (800) ltl·19!,:.!.I,..'"diameter; #250.28-$18.70V,."diameter; #250.29-$19.80110' diome'.r; #250.30-$20.90Yodiomo'.r;'l4'250.31-$22.60",. diome'.r; #250.32-$25.35

High/a lid Hardwarr ttheir addrus i81i8{1'd aixn-e)'I." dlome'.r; #07.ll.~$18.50'I,. diometer; #07.11.07-$19.50%. diome'er; 107.11.08-$20.80112"diameter: #;07.11.09-$2..2.50yo," diameter; #01.11.10-$2.5.00Tiff; lNC.\ "ORTIS': DRU.LS \\'e found

only one supplier of the Inca mortise drills:Garrtti lI'adt (their address is listedabove),6mmdiome'er; #250.9-$9.358mmdiome,er; #250.10-$10.15lOmm diameter; -11250.11-$10.1012mmdiameter; #250.12.-$14.70

WOODWORKING CLUBS

In the future, we'd also like this page toinclude the names and addresses of wood­working clubs around the country. If youknow of a club in your area that's activelyseeking members and would like to bementioned in this space, send their ad­dress, phone number, and the name ofLheperson to contact, to: Steve Krohmer,%Woodsmith Publishing. 1912 GrandAve., Des Moines. Iowa 50309.

the risks is the cheapest way to go. Plus iteliminates having to figure out how to getrid of all the oopses.)

ANTIQUE MIRROR (PAGE 18)

The haU mirror uses only one hardwareitem, the acorn coat hooks. \Ve purchasedthe four coat hooks from:The Renooator'« SupplyMiU"" rsu« Ala88aciUl8"U8 01:1.91'c/ep/u",,': (~l$) 6S9·oI96Jl. (4) AcomHoo'"#29136-$S.50 each

MORTISING lilTS (PAGE 20)

Listed below are the sources for all themorti.ing bits reviewed in the Tool. of theTrade article on page 20.SEARSMORTISI;.1CHITS.The Sears mer­

Using bits appear on page 7~ of the Sears198'>..183tool catalog. (\Ve had to order all ofthe Sears bils through the catalog depart­ment, because our loeaJ store didn't stockthem.) In the catalog, they're listed asreplacement bits for the drill press mol"tising kit. But just to keep thing>' con­fusing, right next to their "lock numbers,the bits are listed as being chisels. Whythey've called them chisels is beyond me.because they really are mortising bits.Listed below are lhe correct stock num­bers for ordering these bits.Y' dlo.; #9 GT 24251-$3.49 eeeh11. dio.; 1f9GT 2421~$4.79 each'17' dio.; #9 GT 24217-$4.99 eachSEARSHOI.I.OW)IORT'S~ CIIISEI.JIlI'i'S.

There are really three separate parts 10the Sears mortising chisellbit system: thechisel housing. the square chisel, and thehit itself. (The chisel housing must be usedwith the ehisellbits, but luckily, one sizefiLS ali.) Again, the mortising chisel bitsare listed on page 74 oC the Sean; 19.~2183tool catalog.1. Mortising Chisel Housing#9 GT 2465-$21.99 each

2. Hollow Mortising Chisels·1....diameter; #9 GT24206-$18.990/. dlomolor; #9 GT 24207-$18.99'I,' dlame,er; #9 GT 24208-$19.99

3. MortiSing Bit.'I.diom.'.r; #9 GT 24224-$10.990/. dlomo'.r; #9 GT 24225-$10.99y,' dlomoter; #9 GT 2422~$11.99SPRIAL £NI) M'LL ROt;TER BITS. The

sprial end miU router bits are available(rom two sources; Highland Hardware,and \Voodcraft Supply. Although they'remanufactured by two different suppliers,the bits purchased from both sources arebasically the same.

The source page is anew addition to Wood·$1ll;ti•• The main reason for this page wasto centralize the information on orderingall the little "extras" that are required forMob project.\Ve Celtthe space required in each article

Cor listing sources could be put to betteruse by expanding our description oC thebuilding procedures.

So in future issues thls page will be usedto list sources (or hardware, finishes, spe­cialty items. tools reviewed in Tools ef theTrade. and all of the little thinp that ac­company woodworking, but usually end upbeing II real pain to find. •The rOnnat for thi~ page will be in two

parts. The !1Ou~ for all of the hardware,finishes, etc. that are required Cor the proj·eets shown in each issue will be listed first.Then if there's space left over after theselistings, we'll use it to include generalsource information on mail-order catalogs,lumber sources, books. plans. and so on.

DISPLAY CABINET (PAGE 4)

We purchased aUof the cabinet hardwareneeded for the spool c..bin~t from:Tire IVoodu'Orkers' S/urt21801 ["d,u/Mol 8(!U/eL'OrriRogers .•11ill"esota, 55;17},Te/ephone: (612) .1$.~Jf}/I. (2) Solid Bra.. Boll Tip Pin Hinges

#01209; IY.'W x IY,-L-$2.25 per poir2. (l) Ceromi<Knob

#EI811; I" diome'er-$l.80 eoch3. (1) ClrculorInloy

#A8002; 21/ ... diameter-$4.S0 each

CURIO CABINET (PAGE 12)

The curio cabinet use. very little hardwareconsidering its size. The hardware thatwas needed (hinges, knobs, and shelf sup­ports) were purchased from The Wood·workers' Store (address listed above).I,(4) Slmi·concool.d Hingo. (0/. offsOl)'02542-$2.15 each

2. (16) Pin Style Shell Support.A'091 53-S.1 5 eoch

3. (2) Co<lKnob.#-E1803;11/..- diamete,-$2.25 each

The (2) curio lights were pureh ased locallyfrom a lighting fixture retailer. The lightswe purchased totaled $44.00.But the largest investment of the curio

cabinet hardware is in glass. To simplifythings, we let a local glass supplier cutsingle strength glass for the doors and theside panels. The shelves are doublestrength glass with round edges. The totalbin: $<iO.oo. (Although this sounds high.I've found that letting someone else take

SOURCES FORHARDWARE AND TOOLS•

Sources