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When summer hits Zagreb, life shifts to the streets, squares and parks. An escape from long, sizzling days comes at night, with terraces buzzing and open till late. In 30-degree swelter, cool

down by the water: choose between lakes and pools or chill by a fountain but remember – no swimming! To quench your thirst, look out for the green drinking fountains – or the funky

ones painted by Zagreb’s graffiti artists.

FIRST MINUTEStart with the iconic view of Zagreb If the Upper Town is the jewel in Zagreb’s crown, then the Gradec plateau is the emblem of that historic quarter. Climb it and be wowed by the view of the Zagreb cathedral. To the left is the renowned Klovićevi Dvori gallery and to the right, watching you from a building, is the Whale mu-ral. You can also leave your love lock there – the place is that special.

WORDSladoled(sla-do-led)THE FIRST PARK with

lawn sprinklers is Zrinje-vac. Come nightfall, the system goes on when there’s little risk of getting people wet. During sum-mer, all lawns in town will be sprinkled. @zrinjevac.hrTHEY DIVE more than 25 meters, swim 400 meters

in under eight minutes and work dusk till dawn? The lifeguards at Jarun, Bundek and Zagreb’s pools. The season is offi-cially on, until September. @zagreb.hrTHE BEST BROOM for cleaning streets is made from birch. Zagreb sources 77,000 brooms in two shapes: round and fan-

like – which are unique for their triple stitch and the fact they’re made with at least 80 twigs! @cistoca.hrPINGVIN, Zagreb’s best-known sandwich bar that’s fed generations of Zagre-bians until 4am every night for the past 30 years is reopening after a revamp. Hint: think beyond sand-wiches. #pingvinzagreb

TALKABOUT

A 19TH-CENTURY WEATHER APP

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INSTAGRAM*

A weather app from the 1800s? If you ask locals who pass by Zrinjevac park’s weather station daily, this one’s prettier and better. Just as old as the park, the weather monitoring post has been unmistakably telling humidity levels, atmospheric pressure, temperature and more – since 1884. Zagreb’s legendary clockmakers, the Lebarović family, come by for weekly check-ups and fixes. In the past, it used to get covered by blinds every night, but nowadays it’s a 24/7 service. The app never lies, though the data isn’t officially used, as meteorolog-ical policies have changed since.

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INFO Gift from dr. Adolf HolzerProject by Herman BolléPillar made from Istrian marbleInstruments from GöttingenClock by König clockmakers*

*The weather station’s clock is

interesting because the hands complete a

full 24-hour circle every day

WHATWHEREWHENZAGREB TIME MACHINE IS BACK ONSummer season is on and we can again enjoy the flair of “old Zagreb”. From listening to the love tunes of street singers to rubbing shoulders with costumed characters from Zagreb’s past and its legends. On week-ends, catch the Honor-ary Cravat Regiments in their Change of Guards ceremony, performed throughout the city center. @Infozagreb.hr

TANGO ON THE MOUNTAIN, ANYONE?Climbing Medvednica mountain is a quintes-sential Zagreb experi-ence. Now you can tango away in Tomislav Hotel at its top. Join Spring Tango Escape (June 1–3), a weekend of dance workshops and milon-gas. Dancers of all levels are welcome. Tickets: 350KN. Get the full pro-gram at @tangoargentino.hr/ste2018

REMEMBER THE GOOD OLD 60s'

Traveling back in time is always fun but The 60s in Croatia: Myth and Reality multimedia exhibition takes it up a notch. Head to the Mu-seum of Arts and Crafts (throughout June) and immerse yourself in one of the most unique peri-ods of Croatian history. From art and pop culture to everyday objects, it’s a full-on experience. @muo.hr

DANCE LOVERS’ TREATThe 35th edition of the famed Zagreb Dance Week Festival is on June 6–12. If you’re a fan of contemporary dance, hurry to book your tickets. Catch perform-ers and companies from all over Europe plus the striking dance spectacle Pixel on the closing day. See the full program at @danceweekfestival.com

ANJA MUTIĆAuthor of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for

New York Magazine and The Washington Post. Follow her at @everthenomad

“Don’t be nervous, it’s just a dif-ferent way into the city,” he said – without me saying anything. It was pitch-black out as I rode in the back of an Uber through what like a wood-ed rural area that I was convinced I’ve never seen before. And I proba-bly haven’t. “It’s a different, quicker route that I discovered recently,” my driver said.

And sure thing, it was. From the airport to the door of my apart-

ment building on the eastern edge of Zagreb’s center, it took – 18 minutes! Granted, it was nighttime, traffic was low but the ride miraculously quick. I could see the moon up in the sky, eager to get home from a trip abroad, and feeling grateful for the swift ride.That taxi ride got my thinking about all the different routes you can take through a city you think you know well. In this day of apps and Google Maps, we often just follow the given routes. Without questioning. But what if we switched off our phones and gave ourselves permission – and time – to just walk or drive, without a plan. You see a leafy street that calls your name – make that turn. You pass a tiny alleyway of the Upper Town that looks alluring – walk it. It’s one thing we don’t do often enough, listen to our instincts.

Travel used to be all about discov-ery. These days, with informa-

tion readily available in a gazillion formats, it’s all about spoon-feeding and hand-holding. If we let it be. Time to change that! It’s June in Za-greb, the perfect moment to detour, get off the planned route, and discov-er a new way to the same place.

Tip: Get lost and find your way in the woods of Maksimir park.

Take a different route

ZAGREB SUPERHEROES

A ZAGREBIAN FOR ALL TIMESThe star of Zagreb’s most famous movie in

history, One Song a Day Takes Mischief Away, an anthological comedy by Krešo Golik, is

now “Zagrebian of the year”. Mirjana Bohanec Vidović could easily win “Zagrebian

of the century” though – if such a prize existed. Her character Ana Šafranek

personifies a timeless dame. She lives in the courtyard of Basaričekova street between the

Parliament and St Mark’s church, takes the Samoborček train and swims in the Sava. Mirjana Bohanec Vidović has played many roles, sang in the Croatian National Theater

for 30 years, worked in diplomacy, and tirelessly helps others as a humanitarian.

Little Market at the Loft in Sinkoviće-va 8 is on every Saturday in the sum-mer. But it’s more than just a market – besides tasting and buying high-quality produce, what else is there at Tavan?Lots of fun, new people and a unique scene made of locals and people who get our vibe.You host cool pop-up events, too. What’s that about?Each pop-up is a story of its own, built on creative enthusiasm and values. Recent-ly we did a dinner for moms and on June 2, we’re hosting Taco Taco, a chef duo from Prague who fell in love with Mexi-can cuisine and now they’re bringing us their own version. Taco-rolling starts at noon and goes till 10pm.People can enjoy great cooking at Tav-an too. Who are the chefs?I wanted to give myself, other creatives and vendors at Tavan a chance to bring what we produce to brunch or dinner. The food is locally grown and real. Sometimes guest chefs cook, sometimes it’s me or my partner – or we cook all together! We guarantee a one-of-a-kind foodie experience, great music and the nicest rooftop in town. You lived outside of Zagreb for a while, in India. What did you miss most?

Peace. Quiet. The sometimes-empty streets – and walking. In Bombay, you can only walk around the Bandri neighborhood and for a European, that’s awful!What do you love the most about Zagreb in June?The smell of lime trees in bloom. There’s one across the window from my bedroom.

MONOVIEW

The funkiest loft in town

Jelena Iva Nikolić, founder of the unique market and initiative, Little Market at the Loft

WHEN I’M NOT IN ZAGREB, I MISS ITS PEACE, QUIET AND STREETS THAT ARE PERFECT FOR WALKING

It may not be digital but it’s bordering an augmented reality experience: Rooftop

Lateral is Zagreb’s first and only official rooftop venue (Mon–Sat 8am–10pm). You’ll find it on the 26th floor of the build-ing at Strojarska 20. Apart from serving excellent cocktails – on Fridays you can also join a workshop – Rooftop Lateral boasts a proper garden. Wow vistas, serene vibe, great drinks – this is Zagreb mixology at its best.

Taking Zagreb to the next level

ZAGREB 2.0

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Three days, three islands, over 30 concerts and 30,000 people. For

the 13th year in a row, INmusic kicks off the summer season in Zagreb. According to NME’s Most Popular Festivals, this year it’s ranked within the top 12, right by the world-famous Coachella and the legendary Isle of Wight. For Zagreb, INmusic is more than just a musical happening – it’s a brand that reels thousands of tourists in from all over Europe. This year’s line-up is impressive – Nick Cave, David Byrne, QOTSA, Interpol, plus a dozen Croatian performers.It’s no wonder that INmusic will be sold out again; maybe they’ll even hit a record of 100,000 visitors! Find all news online at @inmusicfestival.com

DAY 1 DAY 2 DAY 3Queens Of The Stone Age, David Byrne, The Kills, Franck Carter & The Rattlesnakes, Superorganism, Témé Tan, Them Moose Rush, Straight Mickey And The Boyz, False Heads, Tyger Lamb, Rival Bones, Tus Nua, Nellcote, Grapevine Babies

Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds, St. Vincent, Bombino, Jinx, Reykjavíkurdætur, Šumski, Koala Voice, Irena Žilić, J.R. August, ZMaJ, Lika Kolorado, Ischariotzky, Bad Notion

Interpol, Alice In Chains, Portugal, The Man, General Elektriks, PINS, Tschegue, Super Besse, She Loves Pablo, Moskau, Sana Garić, Killed A Fox, Cubies, Rens Argoa, Futurski

INMUSIC FESTIVAL #13: To the island, everyone!

JUNE 25 - 27 2018

JARUNA PLAYLIST THAT GOES DOWN IN HISTORY#1 Franz Ferdinand#2 Iggy & The Stooges#3 The Prodigy#4 Moby#5 The Flaming Lips#6 Arcade Fire#7 New Order#8 Arctic Monkeys#9 The Black Keys#10 Placebo#11 Florence + The Machine#12 Kings of Leon

Zagrebačka antropologinja zanesena kreativnim pisanjem. Pratite je na

@travelhonestly.com

ANDREA PISAC

Honestly, it’s time to be fast and fruity

Most people agree that fast food is bad for you. As a vegetarian

and an eco-minded person, I agree, too. But June in Zagreb turns things around a bit – this is the time when you can snag the fastest and the healthiest bites right from the city’s streets and corners. In early June, you’ll still be able to catch strawberries. So even if you overlook red-draped wooden stalls, the fruity bouquet will make you stop short. These are Zagreb’s fast fruit joints where you can grab a vitamin bomb all throughout the summer. The season opens with strawberries, then carries on with cherries, rasp-berries and wraps up with blackber-ries in September. The best thing is that the fruit stalls keep going until the evening. So even if you’ve missed your morning round at Dolac market, fresh fruit is still there, waiting.

There’s another reason why I love Zagreb fast fruit stalls. They

stock only locally grown produce and so farmers and city dwellers actually get to know each other. It always amazes me that such luscious fruit grows within the city borders.

So, forget everything you know about how bad fast food is. Get a

punnet of strawberries or cherries and walk to the nearest park. Buy a bottle of water and give the fruit a rinse. Dig into your fast fruit snack.

Tip: Catch the best fruit offer just off the main train station. Wash it at the old water pump in Zrinjevac park by the Pavilion – another of Zagreb’s attractions.

COOLTUREMONTY PYTHON’S JOHN CLEESE performs at Lisinski on June 15 and 17. The father of dark comedy arrives in Zagreb as part of his European tour ironically titled “Last time to see me before I die”. @lisinski.hr

ANIMAFEST famed for some of the best animated films since 1972, is on June 4–6 this year. Our recommendation: The Night at the Museum, a picture book turned blockbuster. See the festival’s rich repertoire at @animafest.hr

SUMMER AT MSU brings the coolest local bands to the Museum of Contemporary Art’s rooftop for the fifth year in a row. Concerts take place each Saturday in June: Boa, Kojoti, Chui, and Hladno pivo. @msu.hr

ICE-T and his rap metal group Body Count will crowd Tvornica on June 19 for the tour of their new album. The last time they were in Zagreb was in 1997. @tvornicakulture.com

MORE INFO

Mingle with Croatian naïve artists in PodravinaAfter you get hooked on the Croatian naïve art in the namesake museum in Zagreb, head out to Po-dravina. This gentle verdant region is home to Croatia’s most cele-brated self-taught painters. Visit Hle-bine, the village where it all started. Or catch the Podravina Motifs event in Koprivnica town (June 29–30) during which you can also buy naïve art.

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Tip: Have lunch in Kraluš pub in the center of Koprivnica. The entire space,

including the stained-glass windows,

was designed and created by three

renowned painters and sculptors.

Ban Jelačić square

Martićeva street

Martićeva

8 minutes' walking

NDiscover Zagreb’s Design DistrictA hub of creativity, the up-and-coming area around Martićeva street, the neighborhood’s main artery, always has something exciting up its sleeve. The annual showcase of all that’s brewing in the hood, Design District Zagreb, is on June 14–June 17. The fest’s third edition, with “Local Pathways” as its theme, brings a rich program of interdisciplin-ary events to more than 80 micro-locations all over the hood, from artist studios and parks to courtyards and abandoned spaces.

The oldest building: Bishop’s

Garden House from 1790

Check out the program at www.designdistrict.hr/en

7. Booksa The pioneer of change that has swept the hood, this literary club and hangout has been around since 2004. Run by a non-profit, it has a full calendar of readings and talks, and makes for a top spot to read, surf and chill (note the annual membership fee of 10KN). The little park just across will host a concert on Jun 14 and film screenings on June 16.

8. ProgramDon’t miss this neighborhood fave, a funky café-bar where the cool cats fly solo or hang out with their kids and dogs. Whether you want to work in the relaxed-chic interior or grab one of the sidewalk tables to see the street action, it’s a great spot to get a feel of everyday life in the Design District.

2. Oris – House of Architecture Pop into this multimedia cultural center to check out its design- and architecture-focused exhibits and workshops held in its all-white gallery-like space.

9. Old Military Hospital Check out “REBOOT: Backstage of Progress” during the four days of DDZ, an exhibit of design brands from the region, and other events inside this humongous complex hidden away from Vlaška street through an unmarked courtyard. Built in 1833 for the Austro-Hungari-an military and used as the medical center, today it’s a venue for all sorts of cool events.

5. Ratkaj PassageThis street turns into Design District Zagreb’s “living room” – and closes to traffic for the four days. Don’t miss the Pop-up Plant Clinic, the Baustella installation for chilling and hanging, and RoUm, a new venture by local artists, designers and the Roma community, using discarded objects to craft cool usable objects.

6. NoelHave an espresso at this neighborhood café-bar, with a tiny interior and sidewalk tables on a leafy street corner. The namesake restaurant on the diagonal corner dishes out globally inspired cuisine using seasonal ingredients and whips up great cocktails.

1. Croatian National BankThis grand classicist building fronted by a fountain on the Croatian Nobles Square, better known as Trg Burze, marks the unofficial entrance to the Design District. Lined with sidewalk cafes on one side, it’s also the start of Martićeva, the area’s main stretch.

3. Ibler – the Wooden Skyscraper

Size up this iconic neighborhood building, one of the city’s first skyscrapers

– built in the 1950s and designed by the renowned

Croatian architect Drago Ibler.

4. Vivat Fine Wine Bar This recently opened

bar doubles as a showroom of Vivat’s

wine cellars, with a shop across the street. Check

out its assortment of smooth wines from the

Croatian and global wine regions, as well as fine distillates, gin, liquors,

rum and whiskey.

10. Vitić SkyscraperWith its playful and colorful façade, this is the neighborhood’s funkiest building, named after its architect and today home to many creatives.

The length of Martićeva street:

1,2km

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THE MOST USEFUL CARDWith Zagreb Card tourists get free transport and six attractions, plus ticket discounts for more than 80 locations. Daily card is 98KN, a three−day card is 135KN. A ride on the funicular is included. @zagrebcard.com

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Number of annual visitors to DDZ:

20,000-30,000

RIDE A PUBLIC BIKE

Spring departing and summer nearing means

everything is painted red: strawberries, tomatoes, sweet and sour cherries. Gobble them up fresh, or in countless recipes. Sour cherries are all the rage:

Paint the summer red

together, add bread crumbs, semolina or cottage cheese, plus cinnamon

or vanilla for extra flavor. The

crunchy crust and the warm oozy filling are a winning mix, espe-cially with vanilla sauce – the Viennese way.Slastičarnica Jakšić – 10KN Zdravljak Sršek – 12KN kcal: 179 per serving

TASTE OF ZAGREB

powered by Taste of Croatia

tiny, juicy and bitter-sweet – perfect for making stru-del, a tradi-tion that goes back to Aus-tro-Hungarian times. Housewives used to make dough from scratch, but today we mostly buy it readymade. Freshly picked and firm cherries are best – in summer, frozen and canned fruit is a big no-no. To keep the filling

1033m

Zagreb’s facades and parks may be covered in murals, but the founder of Art Park Boris Bare strikes again – by pairing nature and art. The draw-

ings of a green-haired girl, forest grandpa and a dude in sunglasses, in three parks – Ribnjak, Opatovina and Bundek – have been done in collaboration with Flo- raart. @ArtParkZagreb

4am

LAST MINUTE

The official closing time is 2am, but when it comes to Alcatraz in Preradovićeva street – that’s the least of anyone’s concerns. The café with a terrace down the street from the Flower Square is well known for crowds spilling out onto the sidewalk and blocking traffic. Zagreb’s Alcatraz is where nights out start and end, even with your first morning coffee. Working hours are from 7am–2am. @alcatraz

The map was created in 2013

and is updated every couple of weeks.

Over 140,000 people have used it

so far.

Coffee without a smoke?

It’s possible, at over 100 spots in Zagreb. The map of non-smoking cafés, restaurants and

bars includes 145 places in town. The data is up-dated by administrators, non-smokers who have

decided to seek out their city oases for

everyday life. Google “non-smoking bars Zagreb” and – en-

joy your coffee.

ALCATRAZ, WHERE EVERYONE ENDS UP, AT LEAST ONCE

Published by: 30 stupnjevaEditors: Anja Mutić, Andrea PisacContact:info@30stupnjeva.comIn partnership with Zagreb Tourist BoardPrint: Stega tisak d.o.o.www.zagreb4you.com

Nextbike, Zagreb’s first public bike system, is cele-brating five years since its launch – by spreading to neighboring countries. Croatia fell head over heels: over 20 cities offer Nextbike, and they’re crossing the border to Bosnia & Herzegovina, with Slovenia and Serbia coming shortly. In Zagreb, more than 10,000 cyclists use hundreds of bikes from around 20 locations across the city. nextbike.hr

Green hair – Zagreb’s new ’do

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Head south and reach the river If you’re only whizzing through Zagreb, you might miss out on the Sava River. And that would be a pity. Set a few hours aside and head towards Bundek lake and the park on Sava’s south bank. Stretch your legs before boarding that flight and let the little ones enjoy Zagreb’s biggest play-ground. Then savor your last drink with a lakeside view.

Yearly subscription200 KN gets you the value of 1200KN, and an unlimited number of free 30-minute rides

Weekly subscription10 hours for 100KN, an unlimited number of free 30-minute rides

Pay as you go 30 minutes 5KN* *electric bicycle 30 minutes 10KN

10,500 users in Zagreb

2–3 km average ride per rental

24/7 service

Velika Gorica