Woz’s Installation of the Enduralast Alternator and Enduraspark Electronic Ignition on an R80ST. G’day, I had been thinking about upgrading the ignition on my 1984 Project R80ST for sometime and my initial choice was the Alpha Ignition but I tried unsuccessfully for five months to acquire one and finally bit the bullet and spent the dough on the full Enduralast kit from EuroMoto Electrics that will hopefully remove the worry of failing old OEM electrics. If you’re reading this in isolation it won’t make a lot of sense unless you read through the instructions at www.EuroMotoElectrics.com in particular read the installation instructions / guidelines (link below) and if you look at the parts layout on page 14 all the following stuff I’ve written here will hopefully make sense and you can relate it to your ST. http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/enduralast%20installation%20guidelines_v7.7%2011-11.pdf Excellent service from John Rayski at EuroMoto Electrics saw the goods arrive in Sydney, Australia in eight days. A bit of chin scratching preceded actually making a start that included reading and rereading all the instructions and then laying out all the items to make sure everything was there and it was. Oh, the only thing I couldn’t find was the Posi Lock fitting instructions referred to in the instructions so I found them on line here http://www.posi-lock.com/instructions1.html . They turned up in the packaging after I’d finished so the kit was 100% after all. The instructions are generic and it soon became obvious that a couple of things didn’t quite suit the ST but are probably fine for most other models. I confess here that I am a dedicated shed dweller and prepared to invest my time more than my hard earned in finding suitable solutions to just about everything. A man’s got to have a hobby, right? I have a pretty fair workshop at my disposal and one of the brackets I made is a machine shop job and even the other one has tapped holes in it. The drawings are attached so you can get it / them made, make them yourself or find your own way to achieve a similar result. One of the things I made was the cover plate for the original ‘Bean Can’. It took ages on the lathe and mill so do yourself a favour and buy the EuroMoto one for thirty five bucks. No drawing for that. If you’re that stubborn measure the bean can. By good fortune, the location I chose for Voltage Regulator means you don’t have to extend as many wires as the fitting instructions suggest. Less joins means less places to get trouble later on. Coils. I ordered the recommended 2 x 6V Bosch coils and found I had nowhere to put them unless it was with gaffer tape to the luggage rack. On the ST you need one of the twin coils that meet specification. Refer to the instructions on line when ordering!

Coil option. Here is a bit of alternate info. My ST is ex UK and came to Oz in 1994 then was stored until I bought it a couple of years ago. It had a twin coil but obviously grafted off something else due to its ugly home grown mounting bracket. It works fine. The original owner told me it is a Honda coil but couldn't tell me from what model. He said it was a mandatory mod by the locals if you wanted reliable starting in a cold UK winter. The existing Honda coil pack is between the specified 2 to 3 ohm primary resistance (2.3 actual) so I am running with it and made an improved mounting that I’m happy with. Having made that decision I got the urge to try and identify it by the markings on it. Make TEC (All Honda coils are TEC) I.D. # EW82-TR1 Using those I finally got the Honda OEM part number of 30510-ME9-013. Apparently they were standard fitment to at least the 500 & 750 Shadow models. Before we get too deeply into what I did, I gotta tell youse the usual disclaimer stuff like if you break your bike it ain’t my fault and if you hurt yourself then it’s even less my fault. I’m just telling you what I did. What you choose to do is entirely your own decision. In addition, my view on electrical safety is on page one here. In fact, read all page one here! http://www.bmwtcnsw.org/techfile/R1150GS%20ABS%20Servo%20Removal.pdf OK from here on it’s mainly pictures to keep it simple…….. All these images are taken before finally tidying up the wiring, final double insulation to some parts and cable tying it all back to the frame.

Get to this stage following the Euromoto instructions.

This shows the ignition black box and the voltage regulator mounted to the frame. The other brackets are a spare set. I changed the black box bracket slightly later on to get more cable length.

This a close up of the regulator mounted under the existing frame bracket. At this point I had 0.0 Ohms resistance between the regulator and the engine and frame due to the screws and shakeproof washers I used to mount this. All good but I still ran a separate earth from that M6 nut you can see straight back to the battery negative terminal. On the left you can see the blue accessory plug that I cut the corner out of my bracket to clear.

Here’s the black box mounted just aft of the coil. It’s on the MKII bracket I angled a bit to give me a bit more cable length inside the front engine cover. I needed to get a

couple of piggyback crimp lugs to hook up the coil wiring. You can’t see then here ‘cause I’ve already insulated them.

This the regulator mounting from above. That bright yellow wire is the earth a mentioned a couple of pics ago.

This is the fused connection from the regulator back to the battery. That other red lug you can see supplies power via a fuse to the accessory socket.

The yellow wires coming from the left are from the alternator. The female half of the plug is already connected and the kit instructions wants you to cut these off and use ‘Posi-Lock’ they supply. I elected to find a mating plug and crimps. If you do this make sure you have access to proper brass terminal roll crimp. I paid $80 bucks for

one to make sure the connections were done right. It would be cheap if that was the connection that failed a long way from home.

This is the original socket the OEM voltage regulator plugged into behind the headstock on the left hand side. One wire is the black lead to the starter motor trigger and the other is the white wire from the new regulator module. I separated the white and black wires from the new regulator because I was able to pick up a switched + positive adjacent to the new regulator.

Switched + positive. This is plugged into the socket that previously connected the OEM ignition module.

Almost ready to test run it. A temporary fuel supply makes it easy instead of taking the tank on and off. This is one I knocked up years ago from a bit of copper tube and an old screw top can.

All done and it does run sweetly! After you check the timing before and after you lock up the three grub screws that lock the position of the timing wheel, then fix the degree wheel sticker. Alternator supplies a steady 14.3 Volts. Check everything, double check it. Put the covers etc back on and go riding. I’m a ways off registering mine but if you want my impressions so far I’ll tell you.. Service from EuroMoto = Excellent Quality of components supplied = Excellent Information available on line pre purchase = Everything you need to know Instructions supplied with the kits = Excellent