Discover the most beautiful rivers, lakes and waterfalls of France

Daniel Start

FRANCEWILDswimmingWILDswimming

Wild Swimming France Discover the most beautiful rivers, lakes and waterfalls of France

First edition published in the United Kingdom in 2012 by

Wild Things Publishing Ltd Bath, United Kingdom.

Copyright © 2012 Daniel Start

Series concept © 2007 - 2012 Daniel Start / Wild Swimming Ltd

The moral rights of the author have been asserted.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, used in any form of advertising, sales promotion or publicity, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from the publishers.

A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN-13: 978-0-9571573-0-9

ISBN-10: 0957157304

www.wildthingspublishing.co.uk

www.wildswimming.com

Swims by Region 4

Introduction 6

Getting Started 8

Swims at a Glance 10

Jura 14

Central Alps 30

Alpes-Maritimes 48

Corsica 68

Haut Var and Verdon 86

Vaucluse and Haute Provence 104

Ardèche 116

Languedoc 134

Cévennes 156

Corbières and Roussillon 174

Pyrénées 190

Lot, Célé and Aveyron 202

Dordogne 220

Loire and Normandy 236

Staying Safe and Legal 252

Contents

To Tania, With heartfelt thanks for your love and support over the last two years

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Swims by region

JuraSwim map and highlights 16

1-3 Cascades du Hérisson & des Combes 19

4-5 Lac d’Ilay & the Upper Ain 23

6-7 Lac de Vouglans & the Valserine 25

8-10 The Lison & the Loue 29

Central AlpsSwim map and highlights 32

11-12 Lac d’Annecy & nearby 35

13-15 Parc National des Écrins & the Durance 39

16-18 Lac de Serre-Ponçon & du Sautet 43

19-21 Parc Naturel Régional du Vercors 45

22-23 Drôme & Roanne 47

Alpes-MaritimesSwim map and highlights 50

24-26 Clues of the Esteron 53

27-29 Near Grasse & Cannes 57

30-31 Around Sospel 61

32-33 Vesubie to the mountains 65

34-36 River Var to the mountains 67

CorsicaSwim map and highlights 70

37-39 Corte & the north 73

40-42 South & east of Corte 77

43-45 Col de Bavella 81

46-48 Porto & Galéria 85

Haut Var and VerdonSwim map and highlights 88

49-51 Haut Var & the Argens 91

52-54 Lac de Ste-Croix & lower Verdon 97

55-56 Canyon du Verdon 101

Vaucluse and Haute ProvenceSwim map and highlights 106

57-60 Haut Vaucluse 109

61-63 Haute Provence & Digne 113

64-67 Lower Vaucluse & the coast 115

ArdècheSwim map and highlights 118

68-69 Lower Ardèche 121

70-72 Mid-Ardèche & Beaume 123

73-76 The Chassezac 125

77-80 Haut Ardèche – Lignon & Bourges 129

81-83 Haut Ardèche – Loire & Allier 133

LanguedocSwim map and highlights 136

84-87 Lower Gard 139

88-89 Haut Gardon 141

90-93 The Cèze 145

94-96 The Hérault 147

97-100 The Vis 151

101-103 The Orb 155

CévennesSwim map and highlights 158

104-108 Middle Tarn 161

109-111 Upper Tarn 163

112-115 Tarn & Jonte 167

116-118 Mont Aigoual 171

119-120 Bonheur and Dourbie 173

Corbières and RoussillonSwim map and highlights 176

121-123 The Orbieu & Nielle 179

124-126 Verdouble & the coast 183

127-128 Rennes-les-Bains & hot springs 187

129-130 Pyrénées Catalanes 189

PyrénéesSwim map and highlights 192

131-133 Pyrénées-Atlantiques 195

134-138 Hautes Pyrénées 197

139-141 Ariège 201

Lot, Célé and AveyronSwim map and highlights 204

142-144 Lower Lot 207

145-147 Célé & Middle Lot 211

148-150 Upper Lot 215

151-153 Truyère & Aveyron 219

DordogneSwim map and highlights 222

154-155 Vézère and Dronne 225

156-158 Middle Dordogne 229

159-160 Upper Dordogne 231

161-163 Ouysse & Le Mont-Dore 235

Loire and NormandySwim map and highlights 238

164-166 Cher & Loir 241

167-169 Indre & Indrois 245

170-172 Vienne, Louet & Sarthe 249

173-176 Normandy 251

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Wild swimming is the traditional art of swimming in natural bathing pools, such as rivers, lakes and waterfalls, and France, which has them in abundance, is the wild swimmer’s paradise. With some of the most beautiful and diverse landscapes, as well as the cleanest waters in Europe, taking a dip is the essential way to stay cool in summer, and the highlight of any French holiday.

The benefits of wild swimming are well documented – it’s great fun, it’s good for your health and it re-establishes our connection with nature. In rural France, people have always swum in rivers and there are over 1300 ‘official’ river beaches. Unlike the UK, most of France is just too far from the coast, and even if it wasn’t the options are limited. The Atlantic coast has a dangerous swell – great for surfing but not for swimming – and the Côte d’Azur is heavily developed along almost its whole length.

If you haven’t done much travelling in France or ventured off the beaten track, then you are in for a real treat. Its rivers are so numerous that French départements are named after them and three major sets of mountains ensure a plentiful supply of crystal-clear water to keep them flowing, even in the hot regions of the South. On their journey down from the mountains, the rivers often carve beautiful gorges, pools and waterfalls, which make perfect swimming holes and beaches. Countless tracks lead to exquisite stretches of riverside, and with four times as much land area per person compared to the UK, this is a place where everyone can find their little bit of wilderness.

Wild Swimming France focuses on the really spectacular parts of the country, with the majority of swims located in the southern half, where most people go on holiday. We begin our

Introduction

Est-ce qu’il y a un beau lieu de baignade en rivière ou lac près d’ici? Can you recommend a good river or lake swimming spot near here?

Nager to swim

Plonger/sauter to dive/jump

Baignade au milieu naturel/ Baignade en pleine nature swimming in a natural setting/ swimming outdoors

Baignade sauvage wild swimming

Baignade en rivière river swimming

Lieu de baignade swimming place

Eau doux fresh water

Marmite deeply eroded ‘pot’ or tub in rock (filled with water)

Resurgence where water or a river emerges from underground

Vasque/basin large pool or basin of water

Cascade/saut waterfall

French swimming dictionary

journey in the hills of the Jura and then head south, exploring waterfall country and the great lakes of the Alps. Moving into the wild hills around Nice we enter into the land of ‘clues’ – white limestone canyons with giant jade-green plunge pools and tumbling waterfalls, and while some require canyoning equipment many of the best can be reached on foot. From here, rugged Corsica is just a short hop on the boat, and with plunge pools and soaring mountain spires every bit as beautiful as its legendary beaches, this must count as one of the most beautiful wild-swimming locations in France, if not on earth.

Heading into Provence proper, the Verdon is the largest canyon in Europe and its lakes are perhaps the deepest shade of blue in the whole of France, while the waterfalls of Sillans-la-Cascade bring to mind the kind of tropical oases you might expect to find in Costa Rica rather than Europe. Towards Avignon, the land becomes more arid, but magical blue pools still remain, fed by underground springs, if you know where to look.

Both the gorges of the Ardèche, which boasts the Pont d’Arc, and the river Gard, with its Roman aqueduct, are justly famous for canoeing and swimming. Yet few venture into their upper reaches and tributaries, where volcanic activity has produced a landscape of extraordinary arches and basalt columns.

The Cévennes, where Robert Louis Stevenson travelled with his donkey and wolves still roam, is one of the wildest regions.Further south, the Languedoc and Corbières are hot, dry, wine-making regions that are well watered by the Hérault and Vis. These rivers gush out of great cave openings into enchanted fern-hung grottoes that conjure up scenes from legend and folklore. The Pyrenees are famous for their hot springs – of which only a few remain undeveloped – and for tranquil mountain tarns with rocky ledges for diving and islets to swim out to. Turning northwards, the valleys of the Aveyron, Lot and Dordogne, and their many beautiful tributaries, offer stunning cliff-side villages to swim beneath and plenty of delicious places for long lunches. Finally, the great Loire, with its fairytale castles and woodland lakes, is a surprisingly wild river – wide, empty, undeveloped and magnificent.

French river sportsCanyoning Swimming, scrambling and abseiling down narrow canyons and waterfalls with helmet and wetsuit

Hydrospeed Swimming down white-water rapids with the aid of a float and helmet

Aqua randonnée A popular family pastime of simply exploring a river, part-swimming, part-scrambling, with aqua sandals and a waterproof daypack

Canoeing One of the most popular outdoor pastimes for French family holidays and a wonderful way to scout out the best places for a picnic and swim

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France has fantastic water quality and great summer temperatures. A hot day is the perfect time to swim, but it can be exciting on rainy days, too. In the north of France, it can sometimes be wet and mild, and rivers near towns and dairy farms may not be reliably clean. In the south, especially in the national parks, weather and water quality tend to be excellent.

Kit for families: You’ll feel more confident about exploring rivers if everyone is equipped with adequate footwear (old trainers, jelly shoes etc) and goggles –the basic equipment of aqua randonnée (see p.6). A regular surfing wetsuit or a sleeveless wetsuit top will help small children keep warm if you swim in colder water, such as mountain tarns or streams. Always pack towels (or simple sarongs), suntan lotion, sunhats and plastic bags for all your wet kit, and insect repellent is useful in woodland or for evening swims. Inflatables are fun for children but make sure they don’t drift away. A buoyancy aid (about £40) is a safer bet.

Skinny-dipping: If you come across a magical pool on a walk it’s quite possible to swim without any kit. Wear your undies or go naked if it is secluded. If you have no towel, wipe most of the water off with your hands then sacrifice one item of clothing to dry yourself with, or travel with a small, light cotton sarong.

Wild camping: Remember that this is illegal in France, and open fires are very dangerous during dry summers. If you do decide to camp out by the water, be discreet and invisible. Pitch late and take your tent down early. Leave absolutely no trace.

finding your wayThere are over 400 swimming locations in this book and each can be located using the overview maps, the directions and the 10-point latitude and longitude grid reference. Walk-in times are given, together with symbols to indicate campsites, places to eat, canoe or boat hire and telephone numbers. Abbreviations are given for: left and right (L and R); north, east south and west (N, E, S, W); dir and opp stand for direction and opposite. The grid reference is the simplest and most reliable way to find the place. Type it into Google or Bing maps – on your computer or phone – to zoom straight to the place and view aerial photography and road maps. Or enter it direct into your SatNav and be guided to the vicinity automatically. For those places far from a road you will also need to refer to the French Institut Géographique National (IGN) 1:25,000 topographical maps. You can view and print sections for free at Geoportail.fr.

To find your own locations: If you are using detailed maps, look for bends in rivers, which create beaches and deeper sections; or head for areas above or below weirs (barrage), where pools can form. Any lake you find in a state forest (forêt domainiale marked as green with tree symbols in the Michelin road atlases) is likely to be accessible. Waterfalls are often marked with a straight black line on the IGN maps. You could also explore the main canoeing rivers of France. Where the water is deep enough for canoes it is often deep enough for swimming, too. The map Canoe-kayak en France: carte touristique (IGN, 2007) is an excellent resource.

Getting started

1. If you swim downstream of dams with hydroelectric plants, be aware of changing water levels.

2. Don’t explore narrow gorges if thunderstorms are expected.

3. Don’t swim in canals, urban rivers or stagnant lakes. Keep cuts and wounds covered with waterproof plasters if you are concerned about water quality.

4. Never swim in flooded rivers and be cautious of water quality during droughts.

5. Never swim alone and keep a constant watch on weak swimmers.

6. Never jump into water you have not thoroughly checked for depth and obstructions.

7. Always make sure you know how you will get out before you get in.

8. Don’t get cold – warm up with exercise before a swim and put on warm clothes straight after.

9. Wear suitable footwear.

10. Wear sunscreen and don’t swim in the middle of the day – it’s easy to forget how strong the sun is when you’re in the water.

Turn to pages 252–253 for more detailed information

Ten ways to be wild and safe

10 xxx 11

29 lac de st-cassien48b delta du fango50 vallon sourn, argens54 rue d’eau de st-maurin68 pont d’arc84 pont du gard85 pont de collias

94 pont du diable94a lac du salagou108 la malène143b bouziès154 les tours168d bréhémont171 st-aubin-de-luigne

7c lac genin20 chute de la druise41b the manganello 48b delta du fango52 bauduen plage83a st-julien-des-chazes,

146 marcilhac153b manjo café161 gouffre de st-sauveur162 lac pavin155b moulin-de-rocherel166c lavardin

4a lac de narlay9b ornans14 la roche-de-rame18 lac du sautet37 gorges de la restonica43a pont de gaglioli68b the grand gour69a les grottes

72 balazuc78 gouffre de l’enfer89d salendrinque93 gorges de la cèze95 st-etienne d’issensac102d vieussan106 les fayards146c espagnac

2a gorges de l’abîme4 lac d’ilay11b angon plage annecy22a ste-croix24b clue de pierrefeu29 lac de st-cassien50 vallon sourn, argens

52 bauduen plage57 lower toulourenc58 upper toulourenc85 pont de collias92 bord de cèze117 tarnon at florac170b candes-st-martin

1 cascades du hérisson3b cascade de vulvoz 20 chute de la druise24 clue d’aiglun30 ruisseau de planfaé32a cascade de piera36 cascade de la lance

41 cascade des anglais49 sillans-la-cascade51 châteaudouble gorge90 cascade du sautadet98 cirque de navacelles103 gorges d’héric130 gorges du llech

Swims at a Glance

Canoeing and BoatingHire a canoe, pedalo or punt, to help you explore and to carry the picnics

Waterside foodClose to an auberge or recommended place to eat or buy picnic supplies

CampsitesSuperb sites set by the water with simple facilities and a laid-back attitude

Great for kidsMainly shallow and perfect for family fun

WaterfallsDramatic cascades and wonderful natural jacuzzis

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6 lac de vouglans7 pont de confort, semine11 roc de chère, annecy16 lac de serre-ponçon24b clue de pierrefeu30 ruisseau de planfaé31b gorge de carleva38 gorges du tavignano

45 gorges de la vacca51 châteaudouble gorge69 plage des templiers81 freyssenet87 la baume, sanilhac116 cascade de tapoul118 l’hort-de-dieu134a lac des hauts

11 roc de chère, annecy26 pont de la cerise28 clue de st-auban30b ravine de redebraus52a le défens52b la grande gorge61 gorges de la méouge

68 pont d’arc78 gouffre de l’enfer80 jaujac, lignon90 cascade du sautadet98 cirque de navacelles118 l’hort-de-dieu124 gouffre de l’oeil doux

6 lac de vouglans16 lac de serre-ponçon42 cavu & ste-lucie87 la baume, sanilhac

95 st-etienne d’issensac136 les laquettes159a le port160d floirac

13 ravin du couleau24 clue d’aiglun25 clue du riolan26 pont de la cerise43 gorges de fiumicelle44 cascades de purcaraccia

49 sillans-la-cascade58 upper toulourenc98a moulin de la foux111 le-pont-de-montvert127 fontaine des amours161 gouffre de st-sauveur

10 miroir de scey33b lac des merveilles94 pont du diable95 st-etienne d’issensac

126 gorges de galamus125b cascades de ribaute 160 lacave164 chenonceaux

8a source de la loue24 clue d’aiglun25 clue du riolan26 pont de la cerise28 clue de st-auban32 l’infernet, le suquet51 châteaudouble gorge55 le styx

56 le point sublime56e haut jabron 57 lower toulourenc68 pont d’arc112 les détroits114 rocher de champignon121 ribaute, orbieu131 gorges de kakuetta

Skinny-dippingRemote and beautiful locations where you’ll be tempted to swim au naturel

JumpingDeep pools with great leaps. Take care!

Wild campingWonderful and wild locations for sleeping out by the water

Blue poolsThe most azure, emerald or aquamarine waters you’ll find this side of the Seychelles

Châteaux and historySwim beneath great castles and enjoy the history of France from the water

Canyons, arches and formationsDramatic rock shapes and gorges that will leave you awe-struck

252 xxx 253

Like cycling, hill-walking, canoeing and many other outdoor activities, wild swimming has some inherent risks and dangers but with the right preparation and information you can stay very safe, without losing the sense of adventure.

Main risks

Non-swimmers and children Take special care with children and non-swimmers near water. Even shallow water can suddenly deepen. If you, your children or your friends cannot swim, make sure you scout out the extent of the shallows, set clear boundaries and maintain constant supervision. Remember that even shallow sections of fast-flowing water can knock you off your feet. Be careful with inflatables: they can create a false sense of security and float off into deep sections or burst. Swimmers lacking confidence should always stay close to the shore.

Slips, trips and falls It sounds obvious but this is the most likely hazard while clambering around in rivers and waterfalls. Never run or rush and wear plimsolls or jelly shoes with a rubber sole. If you enjoy more serious scrambling and climbing along rivers why not join an aqua randonnée or canyoning course?

Cold water Summer swimming in southern France is rarely cold, but out of season, or in mountain lakes or

streams, the water can be bracing. Swimming in cold water saps body heat fast so don’t stay in too long (20 minutes is ample). Shivering and teeth-chattering are the first stages of mild hypothermia, so get out of the water and warm up with a combination of warm, dry clothes and activity.

Jumping and diving Always check the depth of the water, even if you visit the same spot regularly. Depths can vary and new underwater obstructions – sand, rocks, branches and rubbish –may have been brought downstream. Never judge water depth by just looking. A broken neck from a diving accident could paralyse you for life.

Cramps and solo-swimming Swimming cramp can occur in the calf or foot and tends to be caused by over-exertion, over-stretching and tiredness. Cramp, contrary to popular belief, is not more likely to happen after eating but being dehydrated, or a poor diet in general, can make you especially prone. If you get a leg cramp, shout for help, lie on your back and paddle back to shore with your arms. For these reasons swimming alone in deep water isn’t a great idea but, if you must, trail a float behind you on a cord.

Weeds In slow, warm lowland rivers and lakes, weeds are quite easy to see. While one or two don’t present a problem, a spaghetti-like forest could entangle a swimmer’s legs, especially if they start thrashing about. Try to avoid weedy areas, but if you encounter some, don’t panic, just glide through them using your arms to paddle.

Blue–green algae In lowland lakes polluted with fertilizers, algae can multiply after warm, wet weather, usually in late summer. This results in a powdery, green surface scum (the blooms) on the downwind side of a lake. It’s presence is obvious and bathing in it can bring on a skin rash, irritate your eyes, and make you sick if

Safety and Access you swallow the water. Find a part of the lake without blooms, or if there isn’t one, don’t swim.

Currents Swimming with or against a current can be fun, just like swimming in seaside surf, but losing control and being carried downstream can be dangerous. In fast-flowing water always think about where you will be able to get out if you lose your footing. Identify your emergency exits before getting in and scout around for any downstream hazards (obstructions, waterfalls or weirs). In canyons, bear in mind that as the gorge narrows the water will deepen and increase in flow. Always explore canyons from the bottom up, so you can ensure there is a safe route back down again. Never enter a canyon if a thunderstorm is expected upstream.

Flooding and dam releases France has a large number of hydroelectric dams. These need to vary their release rates in order to meet changing electricity demands and you will see very clear yellow EDF (Électricité de France) signs along the river where this is the case. In reality, flow rates are generally constant during the summer when electricity demand is highly predictable and many local people swim without concern. Changes in flow rates are usually pre-planned and canoe companies are often notified so have more information. Even if EDF do need to increase flow, changes are not tsunami-like – water levels will usually increase up to about 30cm over 15 minutes. The main advice is to avoid picnicking on river islands that could be cut off, and keep an eye on children playing close to the shore. For more information see Haut Var and Verdon, page 102

Official signs Bathing designations seem to fall into one of three categories in France, though the vast majority of places have no designation at all.

Baignade surveillée At these sites, lifeguards are provided and you can swim only when they are supervising the water. There are a wide number of artificial lakes and water sports centres (plans d’eau) which fall into this category, with amenities, car parking and areas marked out for sailing, swimming, canoeing etc. A handful feature in this book.

Baignade non surveillée Authorities recognise that people swim here, but trust them to bathe responsibly. Often they will sample water quality regularly and you can find details of over a thousand formally monitored sites such as these at Baignades.sante.gouv.fr

Baignade interdite Swimming is prohibited by local councils in these areas but the ban is cheerfully ignored by local people and the sign tends to indicate that a good swimming place is nearby! As in the UK, with the rise in the litigation culture many councils have been forced to post these signs in all traditional swimming places to indemnify themselves against the risk of a claim for damages.

Access and private property Public footpaths and rights of way tend to be marked by yellow or red waymarks. If you can access the bank no one is likely to stop you from swimming, apart from a grumpy angler. The general rule of thumb is that fisherman have access before 10am and after 6pm, and that canoeists and swimmers use the river during the daytime. Most national forest (forêt domainiale) is predominantly open access and in other areas you will find countless unmade, off-road dust tracks that are accessible by car or bike and which branch off through fields and woodlands to remote corners. Although the land is private to either side, there is generally an informal right of way along these routes. Note that wild camping – although tempting – is illegal. That said, it happens a lot more than in the UK. If you do want to camp wild, avoid farmland, never light fires, pitch late, rise early and take absolutely everything away with you.

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Wild Swimming France Discover the most beautiful rivers, lakes and waterfalls of France

Words and photos:Daniel Start

Design and layout:Oliver Mann

Editor:Anna Kruger

Additional artwork:Owen Davis Marcus Freeman

Proofreader:Candida Frith-Macdonald

Production:Daniel Start Promotion: The Farley Partnership

Published by:Wild Things Publishing LtdBath, United Kingdom Series concept:Wild Swimming Ltd Bath, United Kingdom www.wildswimming.com

Distributed by:Central Books Ltd99 Wallis Road, London , E9 5LNTel 44 (0)845 458 9911orders@centralbooks.com

PhotographsAll photographs © Daniel Start except Lac Salagou (Serge Sayn) and Lac de la Vène (Irving Bastin)

AcknowledgementsThanks go to those travelled across France in mutual pursuit of the perfect plunge pool: Tania Pascoe, Ciaran Mundy, Petra Kjell, Fiona Smith, Jo Tinsley, Xavier Keeling, Retta Bowen, Jack Thurston, Ruby Wright, Nell Boase, Rachel Bright, the Ades family, Gemma Gottelier, Clelia Mingoia, Frances Hutchings, Jeremy Light and Tony, Marijka and Ivan Pascoe. Special thanks to Oliver Mann and Anna Kruger for production support. Thanks to Jonathan Knight and Punk Publishing Ltd (publishers of the first editions of Wild Swimming and Wild Swimming Coast) for their support to the Wild Swimming project.

Further readingThe following books and websites informed the field research and are highly recommended:White Water Massif Central: Fluffy’s guide to the friendly rivers of Southern France (Peter Knowles, 2002)Corse Paradis du Canyoning (Hubert Ayasse and Philippe Dubreuil, 2005)Randonnées le plus beaux lacs des Pyrénées (Jacques Jolfre, 2008)Gorges et Cascades: un plasir pour les yeux (Patrick Chollot, 2007)Canoe-kayak en France: carte touristique (IGN, 2007)Descente-canyon.com

Any copy of this book, issued by the publisher as a paperback, is sold subject to the condition that it shall not, by way of trade or otherwise, be lent, resold, hired out or otherwise circulated, without the publisher’s prior consent, in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition including these words being imposed on the subsequent purchaser.

Health, Safety and Responsibility. Like any water-based or outdoor activity, wild-swimming has risks and can be dangerous. These are described more fully on pages 254–255. The locations featured in this book may be prone to flood, drought and other changes and while the author and publisher have gone to great lengths to ensure the accuracy of the information herein they will not be held legally or financially responsible for any accident, injury, loss or inconvenience sustained as a result of the information or advice contained in this book. Swimming, jumping, diving or any other activities at any of these locations is entirely at your own risk. If you are doubt about any information in this book, please seek further independent advice.Wild Things Publishing Ltd

contact@wildthingspublishing.co.uk