ww 090414 m001 3c1p0tailored separates at sensible price points: the jackets are priced at $795 to...

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PLUS PVH was boosted by strong revenue gains from Tommy Hilfiger in the second quarter. Page MW8 Timo Weiland, Orley, David Hart and Jack Spade gave a quick start to the men’s collections at fashion week in New York. Page MW7 September 4, 2014 Concrete Jungle So commenced the New York men’s show season. Here, designer Tim Coppens’ show inspiration, “Jungle Sunrise.” For more men’s designer inspirations, see pages MW4 to MW6. by KELLY WETHERILLE TOKYO — One of Japan’s best- known fashion brands has set its sights on a new tomorrow with a distribution deal covering the U.S., the U.K. and Hong Kong. The proj- ect marks the first international venture for Tomorrowland since the late Eighties. Hiroyuki Sasaki founded Tomorrowland in 1978, and, since then, the company has grown to in- clude a network of 160 stores across Japan and a large portfolio of its own brands as well as partnerships with major international labels such as Isabel Marant and agnès b. And starting this fall, Tomorrowland’s men’s line will be available at Barneys New York in the U.S., Selfridges in the U.K., Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and online at Mr Porter. International distribu- tion will be handled by Montreal- based Want Agency, which also holds North American distribution rights for brands such as Maison Kitsuné and Arc’teryx Veilance. Want Agency is run by brothers Byron and Dexter Peart, who are fans of Tomorrowland’s apparel and have had a relationship with the company for nearly a decade. About a year and a half ago, they proposed helping the brand realize its international expansion goal. “We just didn’t have this ambi- tion to go abroad badly, but [the Pearts] kind of started it and gave us this confidence. [We thought], if these guys who have been in fash- ion for a long time love our brand, then maybe we can go abroad and do it successfully,” said the found- er’s son Yuhei Sasaki, who took over as chief executive officer of Tomorrowland at the beginning of this month. His father remains chairman. Hiroyuki Sasaki has said that, from the time he started the com- pany, his goal was to develop an international business. In the late Eighties, he made his first attempt by opening boutiques in Florence and Paris, but those didn’t last more than three years before shut- tering. Since then, despite part- nering with and selling several international collections in Japan, Tomorrowland’s own branded busi- ness has been wholly domestic. Yuhei Sasaki believes the timing for an international launch is now right, perhaps because more people already are aware of the brand due to its large presence in Japan. “In Tokyo itself, we have 30 stores, and of course our buyers and my father himself go to Milan, Paris, London and New York every GOING GLOBAL {Continued on page MW2} Tomorrowland Sets Overseas Expansion Barneys to carry the retailer’s men’s line for fall.

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Page 1: WW 090414 M001 3C1P0tailored separates at sensible price points: The jackets are priced at $795 to $895, shirts at $295 to $325 and trousers at $295 to $350. Tomorrowland was a natural

PLUSPVH was boosted by strong revenue

gains from Tommy Hilfiger in the second quarter. Page MW8Timo Weiland, Orley, David Hart and Jack Spade gave a quick start

to the men’s collections at fashion week in New York. Page MW7

September 4, 2014

Concrete JungleSo commenced the New York men’s show season. Here,

designer Tim Coppens’ show inspiration, “Jungle Sunrise.” For more men’s designer inspirations, see pages MW4 to MW6.

by KELLY WETHERILLE

TOKYO — One of Japan’s best-known fashion brands has set its sights on a new tomorrow with a distribution deal covering the U.S., the U.K. and Hong Kong. The proj-ect marks the first international

venture for Tomorrowland since the late Eighties.

Hiroyuki Sasaki founded Tomorrowland in 1978, and, since then, the company has grown to in-clude a network of 160 stores across Japan and a large portfolio of its own brands as well as partnerships

with major international labels such as Isabel Marant and agnès b. And starting this fall, Tomorrowland’s men’s line will be available at Barneys New York in the U.S., Selfridges in the U.K., Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and online at Mr Porter. International distribu-tion will be handled by Montreal-based Want Agency, which also holds North American distribution rights for brands such as Maison Kitsuné and Arc’teryx Veilance.

Want Agency is run by brothers Byron and Dexter Peart, who are fans of Tomorrowland’s apparel and have had a relationship with the company for nearly a decade. About a year and a half ago, they

proposed helping the brand realize its international expansion goal.

“We just didn’t have this ambi-tion to go abroad badly, but [the Pearts] kind of started it and gave us this confidence. [We thought], if these guys who have been in fash-ion for a long time love our brand, then maybe we can go abroad and do it successfully,” said the found-er’s son Yuhei Sasaki, who took over as chief executive officer of Tomorrowland at the beginning of this month. His father remains chairman.

Hiroyuki Sasaki has said that, from the time he started the com-pany, his goal was to develop an international business. In the late

Eighties, he made his first attempt by opening boutiques in Florence and Paris, but those didn’t last more than three years before shut-tering. Since then, despite part-nering with and selling several international collections in Japan, Tomorrowland’s own branded busi-ness has been wholly domestic.

Yuhei Sasaki believes the timing for an international launch is now right, perhaps because more people already are aware of the brand due to its large presence in Japan.

“In Tokyo itself, we have 30 stores, and of course our buyers and my father himself go to Milan, Paris, London and New York every

GOING GLOBAL

{Continued on page MW2}

Tomorrowland SetsOverseas ExpansionBarneys to carry the retailer’s men’s line for fall.

Page 2: WW 090414 M001 3C1P0tailored separates at sensible price points: The jackets are priced at $795 to $895, shirts at $295 to $325 and trousers at $295 to $350. Tomorrowland was a natural

Men’s WeekWWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4, 2014MW2

by HOLLY HABER

DALLAS — It’s a first for Suitsupply and a major investment in youthful style by Stanley Korshak.

The Dallas luxury emporium today will open Shak Men’s, a 4,000-square-foot con-temporary store that devotes half its space to Suitsupply’s only shop-in-shop worldwide.

Located across the courtyard from the main store, Shak Men’s takes the space for-merly occupied by the Shak women’s con-

temporary store, which moved in July to a bigger unit across a breezeway. Korshak spans 73,000 square feet, almost all the re-tail area at the Rosewood Crescent Hotel.

“The [Shak] women’s has been a huge home run, and I think the men’s will be, too,” said Korshak owner Crawford Brock. “We’re a superluxury store and will continue to be, but as you look for-ward, that contemporary business is growing substantially.”

Rose Clark, general merchandise man-ager, predicts Shak Men’s will be clocking $2 million in annual sales within 18 months.

Shak Men’s has stylish men covered from chapeau to toe. The mix features Rag & Bone, Vince, John Varvatos, Eidos

and Aesop togs, as well as shoes, scarves, jewelry and leather goods.

“We are a collections-driven busi-ness,” Clark noted.

Korshak’s total volume this year has been on the rise, Brock said, without pro-viding a figure. Revenues increased 18 percent in August and are up 13 percent for the year — approaching record figures in 2007 before the Great Recession. The main store’s premium inventory includes Brunello Cucinelli, Kiton and Belvest for men, and Lanvin, Giambattista Valli, Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera and Calvin Klein for women.

Brock and Clark landed the Suitsupply shop because of their longtime relation-ship with vice president Nish de Gruiter, who was formerly with Brunello Cucinelli.

Korshak is a “great name” in Texas, asserted Filipe Batáglia, chief operating officer of the Amsterdam-based compa-ny, known for selling sharply priced suits with European styling.

On Tuesday, Batáglia and nine staff-ers were putting finishing touches on Suitsupply’s chartreuse, black and white shop, which is owned by Korshak. It’s less than half the size of the chain’s smallest store, but features the brand’s signature visible sewing station for on-site tailors as well as new fixtures, such as clear glass wardrobes.

“For Suitsupply, this is very impor-tant because we’ve never done this, and it’s a good way to see if we can main-tain our image and our brand, and edu-cate the customer,” Batáglia said. “The growth here in the U.S. is so big that I completely focused on it.”

Suitsupply is building a 9,000-square-foot store a few miles away in an expan-sion of the West Village open-air mixed-use center. Set to open by 2015, it will be the company’s largest store in North America.

Each of the brand’s 51 units — in-cluding the 11 in the U.S. and one in Toronto — feature unique, colorful decor, Batáglia noted. He plans to open doors next year in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Miami, Montreal and Vancouver, and as-pires to reach 100 North American units within five years. Batáglia also foresees additional shops-in-shop.

Phot

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Tomorrowland Expanding Internationally

by KELLY WETHERILLE

TOKYO — One of Japan’s best-known fashion brands has set its sights on a new tomorrow with a distribution deal covering the U.S., the U.K. and Hong Kong. The proj-ect marks the first international

GOING GLOBAL

Tomorrowland SetsOverseas ExpansionBarneys to carry the retailer’s men’s line for fall

season,” Sasaki said. “And as [we] go out and buy brands abroad, we found that Tomorrowland is seen in Tokyo by all the international fashion people.”

Tomorrowland’s aesthetic is classic with a modern edge, and it is known for its use of unique, high-quality Japanese fabrics, the majori-ty of which are developed exclusive-ly for the brand. Company director Daisuke Nakajo said that, often, Tomorrowland will incorporate tra-ditional Japanese production meth-ods, using them in unexpected ways that make them relevant in the con-text of today’s trends.

For the first season, roughly 30 percent of Tomorrowland’s men’s collection will be available at in-ternational retailers.

“From the collection as a whole we chose the most special things, the strongest things,” Nakajo said of the wholesale offering. He added that while the styles and colors are the same as those sold in Japan, certain adjustments were made to the sizing for the global launch: Two other sizes were added to the line and the length of many pieces was increased. Prices are between 50 percent and 70 percent higher than the Japanese retail prices, but Nakajo said they are on par with market standards. Sasaki declined to provide a sales forecast.

Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s wear for Barneys, said the collection is exclusive to the retailer in the U.S. and currently being sold at its Madison Avenue flag-

ship; the line will soon be added to the retailer’s online offering, as well.

“The Tomorrowland collection offers great value [and] sophisti-cated styling with good quality,” Kalenderian said. “They created tailored separates at sensible price points: The jackets are priced at $795 to $895, shirts at $295 to

$325 and trousers at $295 to $350. Tomorrowland was a natural exten-sion of the ‘smart’ and ‘clean’ casual dressing that we have been featur-ing in men’s sportswear. We see it in the same space as collections like Margaret Howell, Kolor, Barena and Officine Generale, etc. The fact that it was something never seen before in the U.S. and designed by such a well-respected Japanese retailer made it all the more attractive.”

For now, only the men’s collec-tion is available outside of Japan, a decision that was made largely for practical reasons, Sasaki said.

“For us, men’s is more clear compared to women’s because, with women’s, we have five differ-ent house brands. With men’s, it’s only one, and it was easier to bring everything together,” he said.

But Sasaki said the women’s of-fering likely will follow soon and that talks about when this might happen are ongoing. He also said that the brand plans to continue to grow its international distribution network and that he hopes to open its first overseas store within the next five years. So far, Sasaki said the men’s collection has been well received.

“It motivates us. We’re happy our products, our designs, our creations are selling well in the best stores in the world. It feels good, of course,” he said. “We have about 100,000 employees, and if

Tomorrowland goes abroad and the collection is sold in international stores like Lane Crawford, Barneys and Selfridges, it’s a good statement

for both internal and external peo-ple that are involved in the brand.”

— WITH ConTrIbuTIonS FroM JEAn E. PALMIErI

by VICKI M. YOUNG

TWO ONLINE men’s wear start-ups — Frank & Oak and Mizzen+Main — have received venture capital funding.

Frank & Oak has closed on a Series B funding round of $15 million, led by Goodwater Capital. Additional new investor participants include Greenoaks Capital and Investissement Québec, as well as individual investor John Currie, the chief financial officer of Lululemon Athletica Inc. The company raised $5 million in a Series A round in September 2013, and $1 million in a seed and angel round before that. Prior investors in the early rounds included Rho Canada Ventures; Real Ventures; Version One Ventures; Lightbank, and Bertelsmann Digital Media Investments. Some of those investors, such as Rho Canada and Bertelsmann, also invested in the Series B as well.

Separately, Howard Starr, former president and chief executive officer of Tommy Hilfiger International, will become a member of its board of advisors.

Ethan Song, who cofounded Frank & Oak in 2012, said the company will use the funding to continue to build out the site and add staffing.

The aesthetics of the Frank & Oak line targets creative entrepreneurs, individuals such as Song who tend to have an interest in fashion, Song said. The operation is a vertical one and there is a new collection every month.

“We have about 60 to 75 new pieces every month. The collections have specific themes, and there is a monthly feed on the site on what to wear and how to wear it,” said Song. He explained that while digital content on the site changes every week, there is also a print magazine that comes out twice a year for its members. And while the business model is not a subscription format, the site does require individuals to sign up, so it can obtain personalized data to better target the site to its users based on personal preferences. The company currently has 1.5 million members who shop the site, both online and via a mobile app. Price points range from $45 to $75 for a shirt to $125 to $200 for a jacket.

Chi-Hua Chien of Goodwater Capital said he was attracted to the company as an investment because of the “sense of design, integration with its factory and deep

technology platform. Most of the time you see one or two of those components. It is rare to see all three in one company.”

Chien also noted that what was impressive was that Frank & Oak grew organically. “This company didn’t spend much money on marketing. This was a word-of-mouth phenomena. It’s the next generation of young, professional men who are passionate for the brand….They made it fun for men to shop for clothes,” the investor said.

Over at Mizzen+Main, also launched in 2012, the company has secured $1.25 million in Series A funding.

The investment fund is led by former Astor & Black founder David Schottenstein and includes VegasTechFund, which was started by Zappos ceo Tony Hsieh. Also included in the round are Silicon Valley and Dallas hedge fund partners.

The Mizzen+Main brand started as a shirtmaker featuring performance fabrics that offer moisture-wicking and wrinkle-free dress shirts. The production in the wrinkle-free component has since been expanded to 15 different dress shirts, six Henleys, a long-sleeve T-shirt and a blazer, with the latter first shipping later this month. Both the blazer and its lining feature four-way stretch. Also new and shipping later this month, is a performance stretch denim pant.

Kevin Lavelle, cofounder and ceo, said, “I was soaked in sweat one day in D.C.’s summer heat and I thought why not create a dress shirt out of the same performance fabric. In the world of golf, it wasn’t initially acceptable, but then it became more acceptable. We spent a year in product development before launching. This fabric is not going to show you sweating. Unlike other no-iron dress shirts that have a treatment applied to the cotton fabric, our fabrication has the wick-free technology built into the fabric.”

The company started with $250,000 in a seed round, and earlier this year launched a Kickstarter campaign to test interest for its blazer — the same one scheduled to ship later this month — before going into production after receiving orders totaling $50,000.

Price points are $125 for the dress shirts, $58 for the Henley, $165 for the denim pants and $400 for the blazer.

Two Web Start-ups Get Funding Korshak Expands Men’s Offering

Yuhei Sasaki and Daisuka Nakajo

Looks from the collection.

The Suitsupply shop.

{Continued from page MW1}

w04b002a;5.indd 2 9/3/14 7:40 PM09032014194132

Page 3: WW 090414 M001 3C1P0tailored separates at sensible price points: The jackets are priced at $795 to $895, shirts at $295 to $325 and trousers at $295 to $350. Tomorrowland was a natural

P E R R Y E L L I S C O M

“NEVER BE AFRAID

TO TAKE RISKS, AND

NEVER TAKE THE

CLOTHES YOU WEAR

TOO SERIOUSLY”

• P E R R Y E L L I S

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Men’s WeekWWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4, 2014MW4

ınspirationsdesigner

“For spring 2015, we wanted

to create a collection that’s

reminiscent of Miami in the 1950s — that

iconic man [who is] effortlessly

stylish and cool while taking

a scenic drive down Ocean

Drive, passing by bright, iconic

motel signs that flash neon

pink, set against a backdrop of

breezy palm trees.”

— Adam Weir, Original Penguin

“Objects for interiors.” — Patrik Ervell

“Human/machine.” — Siki Im

“I am interested in the term ‘modern’ and its meaning from the 1960s until now.”

— Robert Geller

“For spring 2015, I was inspired by Palm Springs: everything from the natural landscape to the modernist architecture by [George and Bob] Alexander, [Richard] Neutra, [Albert] Frey, [Donald] Wexler and [John] Lautner. The palette of the collection was inspired by Julius Shulman’s color photography and the prints and patterns he captured.” — David Hart

“Puckered cotton.” — Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos, Haspel

“Peace, love, unity and having fun.” — Mark McNairy, Mark McNairy New Amsterdam

“While traveling in Mexico, I stumbled upon public-space artist Eltono’s fantastic work [in which] he repainted a number of old buildings with these astounding geometric designs that took [the buildings] to an entirely new place. I fell in love with this idea, and I employed similar graphic strategies in my own design process.” — Carlos Campos

“Spring-summer 2015 is a subversive look at mid-20th-century

Americana.” — Alex, Matthew and Samantha Orley, Orley“We are playing with the fantasy

of this entitled, uberprivileged playboy who loses himself in a life of self-serving pleasure- seeking and then goes a little bit bad in the process.” — Parke Lutter and Ronen Jehezkel, Parke & Ronen

“Fade to white.” — Jake Sargent and Daniel Corrigan, Simon Miller

“Brutality.” — Bumsuk Choi,

General Idea

As the final lap of the spring 2015 men’s shows begins, designers provide a taste of what’s to come for the season in New York. — Compiled by Luis Campuzano

PHOT

O BY

WIM

BOR

ST

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Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4, 2014 MW5

“The inspiration for this collection is modernity with a sartorial edge.” — Ariel and Shimon Ovadia, Ovadia & Sons

“I was heavily inspired by 1990s’ sci-fi movies, with those clunky metal set designs, stainless-steel flying cars, 8-bit graphics and a dark-blue industrial feel. I used that feel and color to create this collection.” — Kerby Jean-Raymond, Pyer Moss

“Color is relationship: one to another, a pattern to its frame, the eye to the mind.” — Todd Magill, Jack Spade

“Safari and insects inspired this season’s collection, which

features camo and digital prints.” — Daisuke Obana, N.Hoolywood

“Cool and relaxed urban dweller.”

— Filippa Hallstensson, Gant Rugger

“Mediterranean fishing village.”

— Frank Muytjens, J. Crew Men’s

“Duckie afternoon.” — Steven Cox and

Daniel Silver, Duckie Brown

“A splash of color in a neutral world.”

— Jonathan Skow, Mr Turk

“Balanced stripes and linear movement as seen in artist Sean Scully’s ‘Change and Horizontals’ [exhibition].” — Michael Maccari, Perry Ellis

“Smart, high-tech and balanced, pure sportswear influences and simple,

softly constructed silhouettes lend to a modern tailoring story a sense of calm

and Zen-like serenity.” — Thomas Steinbrueck, Porsche Design

“The union of form and

function.” — Todd Snyder

PHOT

O BY

MAR

IANN

E SI

N-PF

ALTZ

ER

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Men’s WeekWWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4, 2014MW6

“Scandinavian landscapes and contemporary architecture simultaneously embrace traditional design and modern, sophisticated minimalism.” — Ethan Song, creative director, Frank & Oak

“This season is about the stance of the urban weirdo, the urban thinker and the luxury held within the lack of reappropriation.”

— Shayne Oliver, Hood by Air

“Southern California [beaches] and Native American culture, which are my roots. SS15 is a dark take on beach and skate style, with a hint of Native American prints.” — Rob Garcia, En Noir

“Gents’ spring ’15 collection was inspired by the athletic and masculine elements of the sport of boxing and the clean lines and colors of Formula One racing.” — Josh Reed, Gents

“The collection was inspired by both my own childhood, spent away from the sun and in the cinema in Buenos Aires, and the iconography of ‘Soviet summers’ in the stark, almost desolate beach towns of Odessa and Sopot in the 1970s and 1980s. There was a lot of attention to soft textures and color.” — Lucio Castro

“An individual elegant in spirit and dress [and] grounded by nature yet [someone who] travels freely in pursuit of his or her imagination — an explorer, poetically interpreting heirlooms of vintage couture while integrating the elements of the streets where he or she travels.” — Antonio Azzuolo

“Mid-century modern California architecture.” — Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein, Timo Weiland

“People desire anonymity when they go out and experience altered states of mind. There is nothing more rock ’n’ roll than this mystery behind the man who is stylish and discreet.” — Sam and Liam Fayed, Bespoken

“I wanted to add even more character to the pieces in my collection, and I found the customization of hot rods in the 1950s to be one of my inspirational references.” — Hiroki Nakamura, Visvim

“The inspiration for this collection is Shift.” — Richard Chai

“Easing silhouettes

while softening structures

and fabrics to create a

modern and more urban

take on unstructured

soft dressing.” — Billy Reid

“Biotopia — unfolding an urban wilderness.” — Jessy Heuvelink, head designer for J.Lindeberg

PHOT

O BY

JUL

IUS

SHUL

MAN

PHOT

O BY

MEL

BLE

S

PHOT

O BY

HEN

RIC

BERG

STRO

M, J

.LIN

DEBE

RG A

B

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Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4, 2014 MW7

PHOT

O BY

KYL

E ER

ICKS

EN

PHOT

O BY

ROB

ERT

MIT

RA

PHOT

O BY

SCO

TT R

UDD

David Hart: David Hart is doing his best to keep the Fifties alive. “That was the last era when men dressed up,” he said, pointing to a sea foam linen suit over a vibrant cactus-print sport shirt. Other highlights of the golden era (at least to him) were his trademark knitted polos in argyle patterns, updated formalwear and sleek modern suits in baby blue and purple. A standout was an allover atomic print in a two-piece short suit.

Orley: Orley is about to hit the big time. Since its humble beginnings as a knitwear brand in 2012, designers Alex, Matthew and Samantha Orley have created a lifestyle collection that centers around men’s wear classics with a playful spin.

Although 80 percent of the collection still centered around luxury knitwear, Orley was spot-on trend by using it in upscale sweatpants, graphic-printed cardigans and mid-century modern polos.

The sleek tonal anorak and rich suede bombers kept the Sixties-inspired collection rooted in modern times.

The showlike presentation clearly indicated a move toward a traditional runway show, and with this collection Orley is clearly on the cusp.

Jack Spade: Jack Spade is looking to the future for spring. “This is more modern; we’re moving forward. The last 10 years were about nostalgia and heritage,” said designer Todd Magill.

While most of the silhouettes were still classic, blazers were reinvented in packable nylon, a khaki suit was infused with stretch and merino wool was used in updated tonal twin sets.

But the real touch of modernity came with the introduction of oversize ponchos in a novelty camouflage floral print, sleek anoraks and fitted tailored sweatpants.

While apparel took center stage at the presentation, the company’s core competency in

functional long raincoat in a waxed cotton twill was a clear indication that the Timo Weiland man is growing up and ready to leave the beach at last.

bags was evident throughout, especially in the season’s go-to choice: the slim briefcase.

Timo Weiland: Timo Weiland’s show blended preppy and streetwear influences. The highly “personal” collection also referenced the designer trio’s recent trip to California, as evidenced by the midcentury architectural details such as an extensive use of bold stripes and a Baja sweater and pants. The reintroduction of a tailored three-button blazer and a

David HartJack Spade

OrleyTimo Weiland

New York Men’s CollectionsSeveral men’s designers took the plunge and opened the spring season.

PHOT

O BY

THO

MAS

IANN

ACCO

NE

NEW YORKSPRING 2015

COLLECTIONS

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by ARNOLD J. KARR

PVH CORP. rode strong results at the Tommy Hilfiger brand to a second-quarter earnings “beat,” sending shares up more than 5 percent in after-hours trading.

The strength at Hilfiger included an 8.9 percent increase in revenues, to $870.4 million, driven by robust growth at whole-

sale, expansion of its retail footprint and increases in comparable-store sales in North America and abroad, resulting in an 18 percent increase in adjusted operating income. It helped offset declines in profits at the Calvin Klein unit, which continues to work through the integration of the jeans business previously operated by Warnaco, and at the Heritage Brands division, where comps declined 4 percent.

In the three months ended Aug. 3, the New York-based apparel giant’s net income was $126.5 million, or $1.52 a di-luted share, versus a net loss, caused in

great part by the integration of Warnaco operations, of $5.3 million, or 7 cents a di-luted share. Adjusted earnings per share was $1.51, 9 cents above the Wall Street consensus view.

Revenues rose 0.5 percent to $1.98 bil-lion from $1.96 billion in the prior-year quarter and just below the $1.99 billion ex-pected, on average, by analysts. Gross mar-gin translated to 53.4 percent of revenues, up from 52.2 percent in the 2013 quarter.

Investors greeted the results, issued after the close of the equity markets, with enthusiasm, sending shares up $6.07, or 5.2 percent, to $123.20 in the first hour of after-hours trading Wednesday.

Emanuel Chirico, chairman and chief executive officer of the company, said, “Despite the anticipated difficult macro-economic environment, we successfully navigated through heightened promotional activity in North America and volatility in certain key international markets.”

PVH expects growth in adjusted EPS in excess of 15 percent in the second half of the year “as we anniversary our strategic investments in our acquired businesses, in-troduce our new fall Calvin Klein jeanswear product and presentations at retail and ex-perience improving trends in our southern European business,” according to the ceo.

At Calvin Klein, revenues were up 0.6 percent to $674.6 million and operat-ing income, on a non-GAAP basis, down 10.1 percent to $85.7 million. While North American comps rose 2 percent, the whole-

sale jeans business declined “as the com-pany works to restructure the sales distri-bution mix by reducing off-price sales.”

At Heritage Brands, operating profit, again on a non-GAAP basis, was down slightly by more than a third to $29.5 mil-lion, and revenues declined 13 percent to $430.6 million, although they were essen-tially flat excluding the $62 million con-tributed in the 2013 quarter by G.H. Bass, sold to G-III Apparel Group Ltd. last year. The promotional climate in the moderate tier of retail was cited for compression in margins and profits.

However, Hilfiger’s results more than compensated for any weakness at the company’s two other business units. The 8.9 percent gain in revenues was essen-tially evenly divided between top-line growth of 8 percent in North America and

9 percent in international markets. U.S. comps were up 2 percent and internation-al comps up 3 percent.

PVH reaffirmed its full-year guidance for adjusted EPS of $7.30 to $7.40, bracket-ing the current consensus estimate of $7.38, and revenues of $8.4 billion, slightly below the $8.47 billion expected by analysts.

Year-to-date net income was $161.8 million, or $1.94 a diluted share, versus a loss of $15.7 million, or 19 cents, in the first half 2013. Revenues rose 1.7 percent to $3.94 billion.

PVH will hold a conference call to dis-cuss the results and outlook today.

by PAULINA SZMYDKE

PARIS — Boris Bidjan Saberi is settling down. The Persian-German designer, who is

based in Barcelona and shows his luxury men’s-wear line in Paris, chose New York as the location for his first flagship.

“New York is a city that is very close to the energy of our own brand,” he told WWD, citing the city’s main attributes as being “urban and edgy, powerful but refined.”

He said his label, which he launched in 2007, fusing street culture with hand-craft and innovation, matured so much in recent years, both on and off the runway, that a stand-alone store seemed “the next logical option.

“I wanted to create a space where people could come to fully experience all aspects of the brand and what it feels like to be in my world,” he explained.

The 2,100-square-foot unit at 494 Greenwich in SoHo, slated to open Friday, features gray concrete columns, dark aged-wood floors and white walls with a heavy timber beam run-ning across the ceiling, high-lighting the place’s original industrial atmosphere.

“Clarity and spacious-ness” were preserved in order to “not overwhelm the detailed garments” or make the space “feel too cold or ascetic,” according to Saberi. The strategy yielded an essen-tially “gallerylike setting.”

The space is said to stock “the most complete selection” of the designer’s edgy men’s-wear collection and his full, new women’s line, now in its third season. The collections sit along-side a sculpture Saberi created for the “Outer Dark” exhibition, which dealt with the future of fashion, at

the Museum Angewandte Kunst in Frankfurt in 2013.

Saberi, a fan of numerol-ogy who assigns numbers to his garments — his signature pieces are called J1 (a high-neck leather jacket) and P13 (a slim denim pant with a slightly dropped crotch) — would not reveal his label’s profits or sales. Regarding possible expansion plans, he said he doesn’t like “to force things or to expect or plan on big things. If they happen, fine; if not, also fine,” he said.

As for the price range, he said, “Basics start at a few hun-dred [dollars], and the more com-plex pieces range into the thou-sands [of dollars].”

The brand is also stocked at stores including l’Eclaireur in

Paris, Hostem in London and Ink in Hong Kong.

Men’s WeekWWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4, 2014MW8

WE NAVIGATED THROUGH HEIGHTENED PROMOTIONAL ACTIVITY IN NORTH AMERICA.” — EMANUEL CHIRICO, PVH CORP.

Permira Reduces Hugo Boss Stakeby MELISSA DRIER

BERLIN — Shares of Hugo Boss AG fell 5.7 percent to 101 euros, or $132.50 at cur-rent exchange, at the close of trading on the Frankfurt Stock Exchange Wednesday after Permira Holdings Ltd. revealed plans to further reduce its stake.

Permira, the largest shareholder of Hugo Boss with about a 50.4 percent stake, intends to place up to 7.9 million shares of Hugo Boss AG in an accelerated bookbuild-ing process through its majority owned company Red & Black SA. The stake is val-ued at 846 million euros, or $1.1 billion at current exchange, and represents about 11.2 percent of total share capital.

The placement will increase the free float of Hugo Boss to around 59 percent. As in May, when Permira last shaved its stake by about 6 percent, Boss said the higher free float is expected to improve the share’s attractiveness among institutional investors and to increase the weighting in the MDAX.

Permira’s involvement in Boss goes back to 2007, when it acquired Valentino, the former parent company of Hugo Boss. Considered the jewel of that acquisi-tion, Hugo Boss has consistently grown the business, and the share price has in-creased significantly over that period. However, as one analyst noted, the share also dipped after May’s placement, but then quickly recovered.

Permira has not gone on the record re-garding its remaining stake. Reports howev-er suggest Permira plans to further reduce its holding in the German fashion company in successive stages after the required 90 lock-up period.

Boris Saberi to Open N.Y. Flagship

8.9%GROWTH IN TOMMY HILFIGER SALES

FOR THE SECOND QUARTER.

P13 jeans.

Boris Bidjan Saberi

Tommy Hilfiger Lifts PVH in Q2

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