WWDSwimJuly 2008/Cruise/A Supplement to WWD

VibrationsGoodItsy-bitsy bikinis make way for more modest, retro shapes that are every bit as fun.

8 miami nice: A look at a few of the city’s newest and trendiest destinations.

12 ’tis the season: The swim industry gears up for the Miami shows.

16 the right fi t: The secret to a great swimsuit lies in the fabric.

18 silver linings: Economic clouds may hang over the swim market, but a handful of factors have industry insiders hopeful.

20 on the horizon: A look at

swim trends around the globe as the cruise 2009 season approaches.

22 meet me in montauk: Retro-infused styles reappear this season.

28 tribal run: Bold colors and patterns make their presence felt.

6 WWD SWIM

Zimmermann’s polyamide and elastane bikini. Alexis

Bittar cameo necklace.

On the cover:

VPL’s nylon and Lycra spandex bikini

and Keep Me’s model and spandex

cardigan. Keds sneakers.

This page and cover:

Photographed by Talaya Centeno;

model: Karina T./New York Model

Management; styled by Kim Friday

Managing Editor, Fashion/Special ReportsDianne M. Pogoda

Special Sections EditorMichael Agosta

Senior Fashion Editor, SportswearKim Friday

West Coast Market EditorLeila Baboi

Group Art DirectorAndrew Flynn

Associate Art DirectorsSharon Ber, Amy LoMacchio

DesignerCourtney Mitchell

Junior DesignerEric Perry

Art AssistantTyler Resty

Copy ChiefPeter Sadera

Deputy Copy ChiefMaureen Morrison

Senior Copy EditorLisa Kelly

Copy EditorsDeborah Boylan Adam PerkowskyKim Romagnuolo

•••

PublisherChristine Guilfoyle

Associate PublisherTracey Rivera-Price

Associate Publisher,Innerwear/Legwear/Textile Joel Fertel

Account Director Janine Marks

Senior Account Manager, West Coast Ron Troxell

Associate Production Manager Jill Breiner

Production Coordinator Ahmed Pruitt

President, Fairchild Fashion GroupDaniel Lagani

inside

MORE PACIFICSouth Beach’s loss is the Design District’s gain in Pacific Time. Chef and owner Jonathan Eismann’s popular restaurant fell prey to Lincoln Road’s rising rents. So he closed shop, took a hiatus and resurfaced bigger and better across the bay.

His Miami Beach roots aren’t totally forgotten though, witnessed in the striking, backlit alabaster bar as an ode to Morris Lapidus’ prototype in the Eden Roc hotel. “I wanted to send a clean, simple message across the board — tall banquettes, soft lighting and a small, open kitchen, and food that combines our

classics and fresh additions,” Eismann said.The menu features what Eismann calls Pacific

Rim cuisine, with such dishes as local snapper steamed in lemongrass, sake and lime leaves and served with shitake mushrooms and broth. Small plates, a new twist, can be doubled or tripled for entrées or large parties, and lean toward the light side.

“I’ve always been into fitness and health, so rich foods aren’t my niche,” said Eismann.

Desserts range from fresh apricots and peaches in lavender syrup to a warm bittersweet chocolate bomb, the popularity of which has spread like wildfire since appearing on his menu in the Nineties.

“So many restaurants have it now, but I still think ours is one of the best because the key to chocolate is temperature, something a pastry genius taught me,” said Eismann.

Small plates cost $8 to $14, entrées $21 to $32 and desserts $5 to $8.Pacific Time, 35 Northeast 40th Street, Miami; 305-722-7369; pacifictimemiami.com.

NEW WAVEThe Delano Hotel’s Agua Spa has changed its tune, literally. Dumping hippie-dippy sounds such as flowing water and chirping birds, the speakers now pipe the softer songs of edgy artists like Feist. And that’s just one tweak within the major overhaul of this spot atop the hotel.

Its original concept with sheer white curtains as makeshift walls — though falling in line with the property’s theme — didn’t allow privacy or simultaneous hetero treatments. Curved and linear walls of white, rustic wood or glass mosaic tiles have solved both issues.

“This way you don’t hear girls gabbing, and men and women can be in the spa the same time,” said Christina Russillo, corporate director of spas for Delano parent Morgans Hotel Group.

Eight treatment rooms offer mix-and-match services for facials, couples massages or the signature milk and honey massage ($140), given in the wet room, which houses a Vichy shower. Based on India’s ayurvedic system of natural healing, honey mixed with sesame oil hydrates skin, followed by a milk sponge bath to lock in moisture.

“We’re very supportive of East-meets-West therapies,” said Russillo, who also has a passion for innovative technology like the state-of-the-art oxygen machine used during the radiance facial ($180). After the face is cleansed and exfoliated with Luzern products, drops of vitamins A, C and E are rubbed into the cheeks, chin and forehead. Pure oxygen is applied for more than five minutes to seal pores.

“It’s great for acne, since it’s hypoallergenic, and great for aging because it holds in moisture,” she said.A green paint-drenched solarium also is new. Decorated like a garden tea party, its daybeds, floral pillows and potted plants call for Champagne, lunch or a good book.“People stay all day, and I don’t blame them,” said Russillo.

Agua Spa at the Delano Hotel, 1685 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach; 305-674-6100; delano-hotel.com.

Agua Spa at the Delano.

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miami nice A look at a few of the city’s newest and trendiest destinations. By Rebecca Kleinman

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IN THE SWIMGansevoort South is upping the ante on all-inclusive resorts here. And unlike Las Vegas’ show ponies full of casinos and spectacles, this one is geared toward the pool and beach lover. The refurbished Sixties compound boasts a beach club designed by Stephane Dupoux of Nikki Beach fame, along with and three pool decks, all overlooking the Atlantic — a surprisingly rare occurrence in South Florida.

“Unfortunately, other hotel pools were installed at ground level, thus dunes obstruct water views,” said Elon Kenchington, chief operating officer of Gansevoort Hotel Group.

Since each offers distinct qualities, it’s all about pool-hopping. With its proximity to the hotel’s David Barton Gym + Spa, the South pool is relegated to children’s and fitness activities like water aerobics. The center, the largest layout, feels more like a grand, plein air hall with homey accents like teak chaises and elephant side tables and dining service by New York’s The One Group, which plans to open STK in the hotel’s northwest niche by year’s end.

“Most important though is our brand’s signature rooftop pool and lounge, called Plunge,” said

Kenchington of the not-so-easy design feat. “We had to completely restructure the building to support a 22,000-square-foot deck with 110-foot pool.”Its 360-degree views and wood slats give the illusion of being on a cruise ship. No amenity was spared — cabanas feature flat screens and music

components, a DJ booth instantly fosters a club vibe, which slowly escalates beginning at sunset, and the bar’s sushi menu includes a decadent chocolate roll for dessert.

Back on the beach at the largest private club of its kind in Miami, according to Kenchington, daybeds, tiki torches and a lit, glass wall with cascading water sets the scene. “This is the premier VIP playground,” he said. Gansevoort South, 2377 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach; 305-604-1000; gansevoortsouth.com.

INDO-MITABLEIndomania’s secret is out. A little more than a year ago, the Indonesian eatery began as an underground haven for foodies, the city’s top chefs and homesick Southeast Asian hotel workers, but great food and reviews couldn’t stop its coming-out party. Lines now form outside the denlike locale in Miami Beach, but owner Pieter Both said the food makes up for any stomach growling or sore feelings.

“Somehow my wife’s [Ineke, a professional chef] cooking washes away all memories of long waits, since patrons can tell it’s made with love,” said Both, a former photography agent and producer from Amsterdam.

“I have so much respect for her working in this industry all her life, because it’s the hardest I’ve ever worked,” said Both, who mans the front while his wife concocts her complex, fragrant cuisine. “People ask for recipes, but each dish has about 17 ingredients.”

Soto Ayam, chicken soup with bean sprouts and egg ($6), and entrées like duck ($20) or red snapper ($18) steamed in banana leaves are popular, but most diners order a rijsttafel (rice table), a traditional Indonesian feast of more than a dozen small plates such as beef coconut stew, lemongrass rice, spicy green beans and shrimp crackers ($16 to $26 per person). Indomania, 131 Northeast 26th Street, Miami Beach; 305-535-6332; indomania restaurant.com.

miami nice

The rooftop pool at the Gansevoort South.

Dishes at Indomania.

12 WWD SWIM

’tis the seasonThe swim industry gears up for the Miami shows. By Georgia Lee

MIAMI BEACH IN JULY HAS BECOME the Swimwear City that never sleeps.

By day, SwimShow 2009 runs July 19 to 22 at the Miami Convention Center, while Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim, which runs July 18 to 21, has nightly shows poolside at the Raleigh Hotel and after parties in the penthouse. In all, buyers will get a first look at 2009 cruise swimwear from more than 400 exhibitors.

If the number of new lines and launches and projected attendance are any indication, swimwear is among everybody’s favorite categories, even during difficult times.

Fern Mallis, senior vice president of IMG Fashion, sponsor of the Mercedes-Benz event, expected 10,000 attendees, the same as last year, including 500 registered media.

Several big sportswear and ready-to-wear lines that have dipped toes into the swimwear category will launch full collections, while small designers are launching swimwear lines as lifestyle brand extensions. Ignoring basics, designers are distinguishing themselves from discount channels with enhanced print, color and embellishment, to give cautious retailers more bang for their buck.

Rather than any one trend direction, variety and individual expression is the order of the day. Bright citrus and jewel tones replace the earth palettes of past seasons. Innovation in fabric, texture and prints shows up in ikat, graphic, digital and 3-D effects.

Patterns — from stripes and polkadots to animal prints — mix but don’t match. The same goes for ethnic and retro influences that play

together with no one theme. Not matching, embraced by juniors for years, is starting to catch on in contemporary and even

misses’ markets, designers said. Responding to demand,

lines are expanding the range of sizes and cups, adding more construction and figure control and adding more one-piece suits for a misses’

customer who has been ignored.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim’s lineup of 16

designers illustrates the influence of fashion, media,

celebrity and globalization in swimwear.

“We have a good cross section of the big brands, international lines, like

Australia’s Zimmermann

and Brazil’s Poko Pano, local favorites such as Miami’s Red Carter, and Pistol Panties, a line that has a celebrity following,” said IMG’s Mallis.

Red Carter, the Mercedes-Benz Presents featured designer, said now is not the time to play it safe.

“Recession calls for more creativity,” he said. “It’s the time for fashion to throw more bells and whistles on swimsuits and see what sticks. There’s no need for basic, $20 suits, because consumers can find that at Target and the discounters.”

Red Carter’s show and party will have a speakeasy theme and a vintage Twenties vibe. The swimwear line includes ikat prints, textured patterns, ruffles and asymmetrical lines, and a sportswear group double the size of last season’s.

Carter will also launch Red Carter Glam, a 30-piece collection of high-end, aspirational suits aimed at top doors of specialty retailers including Barneys and Everything But Water.

High-end, over-the-top glitz is the purview of OYE — an acronym for Open Your Eyes — swimwear, an Istanbul line now in its third season.

With crystal and semiprecious stones, the brightly colored line retails around $300 in specialty stores. This season will include a bikini embellished with a total of 12 carat’s worth of diamonds, priced at $60,000. For more conservative, less showy types, there is also a $20,000 version.

Diesel will kick off IMG’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim with an opening-night fashion show and after party July 17 at the Raleigh Hotel in South Beach.

The Italian fashion brand will preview spring-summer 2009 swimwear, and show select fall-winter apparel and accessories from its South Beach store on Washington Avenue.

Diesel is showing at IMG’s event for the first time. “Miami is one of my favorite cities in the world,” said Diesel president and founder Renzo Rosso. “I’ve always been drawn to South Beach’s vibrant energy and cultural richness.”

Along with Diesel, other rtw and sportswear lines have launched swimwear collections as extensions of their brands, including Custo Barcelona, Tommy Bahama, Ed Hardy and Tibi.

Custo Barcelona is expanding swimwear this

year to a complete collection. From a few pieces last year tested

in selected stores including Saks Fifth Avenue, cruise 2009 will feature 45

swimsuits and 19 tunics and dresses, priced $35 to $45 wholesale.

“Swimwear has the same language as the ready-to-wear,”

said Custo Dalmau, head of design, who described the collection as

“Seventies-inspired, with graphic prints embellished with patchwork and Lurex

details. For the U.S. market, the fit will have more coverage and construction than

that aimed at European customers. With first-year sales projected at $2.4 million, distribution will include Custo Barcelona’s own 20 freestanding U.S. stores along with specialty stores and department stores such as Nordstrom and Saks.

SwimShow will hold a multiline fashion show Sunday, July 20, in a tent on the sand at Ocean Drive and 11th Street. SwimShow will add new European resources this year, including Lotus London and the Spanish line Jocomomola.

Also exhibiting at SwimShow this year is Badgley Mischka. After introducing swimwear last season, the line is expanding distribution this year, with U.S. stores such as Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom’s online channels and international markets in Dubai, Canada and the Middle East, where the rtw line is sold.

“Swimwear has been an extremely successful category,” said James Mischka, who said the new collection contains the same inspiration in the draping, necklines and embellishment as the eveningwear. “It gives our customers exposure to our brand at a reasonable price, rather than spending $5,000 to $10,000 on a gown.”

Swimwear was a logical step for the dress line Tibi, after several recent brand extensions, including shoes, wallpaper and tights. For the

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20-piece all-separates collection, Amy Smilovik, creative director, drew on print archives from her dress collection.

“We went back to our roots, using enlarged, recolored prints from my travels in Indonesia,” she said. “It was important to present the line with a consistent point of view that was recognizable, the way Missoni or Pucci is, rather than just following what’s in or trendy.” Like the dress line, the swimwear targets the 25- to 45-year-old customer, but will wholesale at $40 to $45.

Jantzen had success last year by relaunching its own updated version of the signature Vamp suit, a red maillot originally launched in 1954. This year it will add new colors and prints.

Every delivery includes a suit inspired by Jantzen’s archives, many with retro details, from high waistlines to tiny patent leather belts or hardware that have become current fashion trends.

Jantzen is the fashion swim brand of parent company Perry Ellis, which also owns Jag and Nike Swim. Sales for the swimwear division increased 15 percent for the year ended 2007, to a total of $90 million, according to Lori Medici, vice president of marketing.

For the year ended June 30, sales were also up in double digits for Lunada Bay, an Anaheim, Calif., manufacturer of Becca, Betsey Johnson and Lucky Brand.

“Retail is difficult and the season has been a roller coaster,” said Susan Crank, president and chief executive officer. “There have been more peaks and valleys this year.”

Crank pointed to opportunities with many stores that are expanding online businesses, and noted that retailers are demanding product with

the “wow” factor, especially as prices increase.

Speedo will feature its Lzr Racer swimsuit,

launched in February for Olympic athletes, which will

retail for $550 at sporting goods chains and specialty

stores. Speedo will also launch the fashion line Bondi Beach, a

20-piece collection of mostly one-piece suits in bright colors with figure-

shaping features for the misses’ customer. Alex Bhathal, co-president of

Raj Manufacturing, a Tustin, Calif., manufacturer of swimwear brands Guess,

Athena Pick Your Fit, St. John, O’Neill, Tommy Hilfiger and Hurley, said swimwear, though not

as strong as in previous years, had been helped by good weather this year.

“The economy’s bad and traffic in stores is down overall, but swimwear retail sales held up better than other categories,” he said. “Weather is more of an important factor than the economy on swimwear.”

Total company sales for the year ended June 30 are flat with last year, though June was strong, and international business helped compensate for sluggish sales in the U.S. market. Misses’ brands have outperformed juniors, where competition is fierce.

Bhathal said rising costs, from petroleum to production in China, would result in higher-

priced suits, putting more pressure on brands to create value that justifies prices to consumers.

To generate excitement, Raj is adding more color and new prints

across all brands. Mismatched patterns, paired with prints, skins and florals in separates, have started to catch on with the misses’ market, allowing customers individual

expression, according to Lisa Vogel, co-president.

Retailers planning their Miami trips are looking forward

to fresh color, prints and new fabrics, but expressed concerns over

rising prices at a time when consumers are strained by gas prices and other costs.

Janet Wong, buyer for Atrium, with stores in New York and Miami, will buy more

swimwear this year, especially for year-round swimwear business in Miami, where international tourists, taking advantage of the weak dollar, now account for 70 percent of sales.

For that customer, who likes color, print and skimpier suits, she will preview European lines including Vanda Catucci and bestsellers Vix, Shay Todd and Lenny and Delfina.

“I’m being careful about price, looking for the $195 to $295 retail range, and insisting on good fit from resources I know I can count on, rather than

Vivia by Vivia FerragamoHaving already established a presence in ready-to-wear and accessories, Vivia Ferragamo — granddaughter of Salvatore — is trying her hand at swimwear. The designer focuses on five groups this season, all designed with a sense of timelessness and sophistication. Ranging from sexy Brazilian to chic French, each group offers a bikini and, in some cases, a one-piece as well. Styles are adorned with a signature fuchsia V detail, while jersey fabrics ensure a comfortable fit. Prices run $75 to $150 wholesale.

DosedFavoring color blocks over prints and clean lines over fussy silhouettes, Milan-based Dosed comes to Miami with a spring-summer swim collection of one-piece suits, bikinis, tunics, pareos and accessories, blending the Italian and Brazilian upbringings of the company’s co-owners Luca Balella and Marcele Ribeiro. Cuts, while sexy, are still generous enough to cover. Rich colors and subtle details, such as a wooden toggle and delicate side ties accentuate the elegance of the styles without overpowering them. Prices for the polyamide and elastane suits start at $90 and go up to $116 wholesale.

Elizabeth KosichThis New York-based line debuts with three key bikini styles and two caftans, all done in viscose,

metallic polyester or silk charmeuse. The Olenska style features string-tie

bottoms and a triangle top with a metal ring at the center; the Lily

Bart has two metal rings on low-rise bottoms and one metal ring on the triangle top, and the Gertrude is a classic string bikini. Caftans come in a full-length ombré style as well as a shorter length in a soft rose print. The

suits are sold as separates and run $55 to $70 wholesale.

Hotel BondiNamed for a landmark on Australia’s most famous beach, Hotel Bondi swimwear reflects the unique and active lifestyle of the area with one-pieces and bikinis printed with eclectic original artwork. Bright prints are the main focus of the line and include bold patterns in blue, yellow, green and red. Showing 30 styles each for cruise and summer, all Hotel Bondi offerings are accented with glass, metal, wood or Lucite trims, depending on the print story. The nylon and Lycra spandex suits run from $160 to $180 retail.

— Elizabeth Thurman

Fresh AirA look at a few of the lines making their fi rst appearance at the Miami shows.

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Tyler Rose

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The secret to a great swimsuit lies in the fabric. By Khanh T.L. Tran

FOR COVERING SO LITTLE OF THE BODY, SWIM FABRICS MUSTdeliver quite a bit.

In addition to withstanding hours of exposure to chlorine, ultraviolet rays, sunscreen and oils added to spa baths, the textiles used to make swimsuits must also look good by keeping their shape and fit after hours of wear.

“Durability is the bottom line,” said LeAnn Schwartz, commercial manager for Dow XLA, Dow Chemical Co.’s first stretch fiber, which made its debut in the U.S. this past spring in Adidas’ Infinitex+ line and Nike’s Evr-X brand. Equally important in swimwear is the ability to endure a variety of printing, dyeing and other techniques that help designers adapt trends to the swim category that pop up first on the runways and streets.

“We are constantly on the lookout for fabrics that will reflect changes in fashion and the innovations of our mills,” said Kim Farrugia, swim designer for action sports brand Insight.

One of the new materials that Australia-based Insight will offer next spring is a gold metallic trim that appears wet even when out of the water. Yet no matter how the styling walks the tightrope between surf and street, Insight understands that its swimwear belongs in the waves.

“Our fabrics need to stand up to the surf,” Farrugia said. “So even though our prints and styling are fashion-forward, the Insight girl knows that her swimwear will last.”

Indeed, “swimwear is unforgiving,” said Nicky Zimmermann, designer of an Australia-based contemporary fashion and swim brand bearing her surname. “If it doesn’t flatter the body, then there is no point in referencing sportswear ideas in swim.”

Still, she said her swimwear always reflects the brand’s fashion perspective in ready-to-wear. “We translate that across each swim grouping, thus incorporating some interesting fabrications,” said Zimmermann, who started the company in 1991 with her sister, Simone.

One such material is a chiffon mesh that Zimmermann used to convey the transparency trend that first appeared in designers’ collections in the spring. In a one-piece being offered as part of Zimmermann’s spring 2009 lineup, the designer strategically covered parts of the body with strips of a quirky floral print while keeping the abdomen, hips and décolletage subtly visible under the sheer chiffon.

“Even though [our swimwear is] always moving in fabrication and direction, we always work to ensure that it has our unique stamp, which is different to a lot of swim lines,” Zimmermann said.

Raj Manufacturing is moving toward the high end with the launch of a new brand, Luxe, that showcases a slinky micronylon jersey spruced up by a slight sheen. A spin-off of Raj’s flagship Athena brand, Luxe makes its debut in July for the coming spring season with retail prices ranging from $130 to $195. In comparison, Athena’s prices run from $100 to $120.

While some companies might opt to lower prices in an uncertain economy, Raj advocates aiming higher with more innovative — and thus costly — fabrics. “We’re leaning more on these specialized products to separate us [from the competition],” said Lisa Vogel, co-president of Tustin, Calif.-based Raj.

At Blue Water Design Group, Apparel Ventures Inc.’s division that produces swimwear under license for fashion brands such as Trina Turk, Rampage and A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz, designers scrutinize the sportswear market for new fabrics, colors and details that they can integrate into swimsuits.

“We are constantly upgrading our fabrics to make the feel better, and appeal to our customer and differentiate ourselves, as well,” said Howie Greller, president of Blue Water Design Group in Gardena, Calif.

Aware of the predominance of textured textiles in recent rtw collections, Blue Water Design Group knitted a Seventies-style white jacquard that is offset

by a bold background in hot pink, black or mint green for Trina Turk next spring. For Rampage, the company created a leatherlike fabric that Greller described as “almost biker.” With A.B.S., designers took a walk on the wild side with a crocodilelike synthetic cloth that mimics the pricy reptile skin with shiny bumps affixed on a stretchy brown base. “It feels like the real deal,” Greller said.

On the other hand, environmentalists who can’t bear to don any kind of animal skin can turn to Lunada Bay, which plans to introduce soy fabric as early as next year in the form of tankinis, triangle and halter tops and swim shorts. Costing 20 percent more than nylon-based textiles, the soy swimsuits follow the introduction of bamboo, which was knit into velour and jersey cover-ups. Looking ahead to 2010, Anaheim, Calif.-based Lunada Bay also is experimenting with fibers derived from corn.

“We’re all trying to be better people to the planet,” said Pat Osmanson, senior vice president at Lunada Bay.Besides the eco angle, the soy swimsuits also yield a soft hand that Osmanson said reminds her of cotton. Still, the biggest challenge of working with soy is that, unlike nylon and bamboo, the fabric can’t achieve a bright color palette. As such, Lunada Bay is sticking with a muted array in black, brown, rust, olive and aquamarine, Osmanson said.“What I really love about it is it takes you back to the cottony feel,” she said. “It seems to be what the consumer is going back to.”

A soft touch was also the goal for a lower-priced subbrand from Natalie Golonka, whose year-old Los Angeles company, called Junglegurl, recycles vintage garments into teeny bikinis. Because the vintage garments are expensive and difficult to find, Golonka worked with Los Angeles-based Jiann & Co. to twist nylon and spandex yarns on a vintage knitting machine in an updated technique that Jiann

said will reduce pilling while improving durability and the feel of the fabric. While Golonka will continue to create one-of-a-kind bikinis from vintage

fabric for Junglegurl Green Label, the secondary line, called Junglegurl, will use mass-produced textiles and cost half as much, with wholesale prices running from $50 to $60.

“The lower price point will come in handy for the street, edgy, surf girl who’s still into fashion,” Golonka said.

16 WWD SWIM

the right fit

Chiffon mesh helps Zimmermann translate the transparency trend from the street to the beach.

Insight tries to ensure its suits can stand up to

the surf.

Swimwear up to a HH cup

www.freyaswimwear.com

New York Showoom 180 Madison Avenue #1407 New York New York 10016 Tel: 212 696 4763

18 WWD SWIM

silver liningsEconomic clouds may hang over the swim market, but a handful of factors have industry insiders hopeful. By Rachel Brown

BRIGHTLY COLORED SWIMSUITS MAY BE THE LIPSTICKS OF the swimwear market. Like with the beauty mainstays, suits splashed with oranges, turquoises and yellows reappear in stores with a vengeance when economic times are tough, 41-year-old Raj Manufacturing LLC detected. “We have more brights than ever in our [2009] collection,” said Lisa Vogel, co-president of Tustin, Calif.-based Raj, which makes swimwear under the Tommy Hilfiger, Athena, Guess, O’Neill, Luxe and St. John labels. “The last time we saw these bright colors was in the early Nineties, the last time we were in a recession.” Perhaps swimwear consumers—as well as retailers and vendors—are in need of a little cheering up. While the niche swimwear industry hasn’t fared as poorly as others, sales over the past year have been largely flat and buyers are cautiously approaching the upcoming season. Research firm The NPD Group reports that total women’s swimwear sales in the U.S. amounted to nearly $2.7 billion from May 2007 to April 2008, climbing roughly 1.2 percent from $2.66 billion in the same period a year before. That increase was substantially off the prior year’s, when sales spiked almost 10 percent from $2.4 billion. Certainly, the swim picture could be a lot gloomier. Ron Russell, president of L.A. swimwear stalwart AVI Design Group, which handles La Blanca, Sessa, 2Bamboo, Citrus, Lauren by Ralph Lauren and Ralph Lauren Blue Label, said that the swim sector’s small size compared with other parts of the fashion industry limits its exposure to economic swings. The majority of women shell out for a swimsuit fewer than once a year, according to a 2007 survey by NPD. “We continue as an industry to do well in spite of all the things that take place because it is somewhat recession-proof,” said Russell, who reported that AVI experienced a year-over-year revenue jump of 18 percent. “If we were in a business that we had to sell a woman a swimsuit every year, then we would be affected by recessions.” The weather probably has more to do with swim’s fortunes than gas prices, interest rates or foreclosure statistics —and it is often mentioned first when swimwear retailers and vendors discuss sales. In most parts of the country, retailers noted that warm temperatures have spurred business this summer. Mark Sidle, president of Swim ’n Sport, a Miami-based chain with 36 stores, puts the climate-business equation simply. “The hotter it is, the more you can sell,” he said. Even with the mercury rising, swimwear hasn’t escaped the cold economic winds totally unruffled. While the industry as a whole has been relatively nonplussed, there are areas of concern. The junior market is one such area, especially for manufacturers and shops in the upper tier of the swimwear field. Contrary to conventional wisdom that teens’ and kids’ shopping tabs don’t decline during downturns because parents splurge on their tots no matter what, several vendors and retailers have noticed that junior spending has taken a dive in swim. “For the last five years, juniors has been a very strong summer business for us, but now we have seen that has fallen,” said Renee Buda, buyer for 18-unit chain California Sunshine, based in Ocean Township, N.J.

The NPD figures show that mass merchandisers and off-price retailers, purveyors of low-cost suits, have seen women’s swimwear year-over-year increase 7.2 percent and 24.7 percent, respectively, perhaps partially due to consumers seeking affordable options. However, specialty stores with pricier goods have had their share of success, with annual sales rocketing 19.6 percent. Specialty stores credit designer and misses’ swimwear with keeping shoppers buying. “People are looking into designer swimwear more than ever before,” said Melanie Michaud, director of marketing for 17-unit chain Diane’s Beachwear. Howard Greller, president of Blue Water Design Co., a division of Apparel Ventures Inc. that he said has recorded a 25 percent revenue leap over last year, said designer sales have flourished. “We have seen explosive growth at the designer tier level, which indicates that people are willing to spend at the

luxury price level if the suit is right.” Blue Water makes Trina Turk, Rampage and Local Motion swimwear, among other brands.

Nichole Carroll, creator of Tyler Rose Swimwear, a high-end brand available in roughly 50 specialty

boutiques, concurs that the premium labels continue to perform strongly because their

customers are not extremely price-sensitive. “The girls who buy my stuff are willing to pay that price point,” she said. Swimwear shoppers’ price sensitivity will be put to the test in the upcoming season. Material expenses, transportation costs and the

Euro-dollar discrepancy have been blamed for boosting swimsuit prices. Swim ’n Sport’s Sidle

has come across increases as high as 10 percent, but he doesn’t seem too worried. “I don’t believe

that the majority of the consumers that are shopping in better stores today are going to not buy because of the

10 percent increase,” he said. Nonetheless, Sidle and other retailers aren’t proceeding into

the 2009 buying season depending upon shoppers shelling out for just any suit. The drive to smartly merchandise the stores is even greater given the economic uncertainties. “We went into the market last year being very selective in the prints and colors that we wanted to offer to our consumer, and we are not going to settle this year either,” said Sidle. Going into next season, Kassidy Babcock, a buyer for online store Shopbop, said, “I am bringing in a couple of new brands, but we are focusing on the ones that have been strong performers.” And California Sunshine’s Buda said, “We are definitely going to have a more conservative buy than last season.” Still, she offered some hope to standout vendors. “We are always looking for fresh fashion,” she added.

Despite a slow economy, the swim segment continues to grow.

Swim makers say that as long as the weather’s hot, people will still buy swimsuits.

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MIAMIFrom south Miami’s Mermaids Boutique to Miami Beach’s Intermix stores and MPL Fashions’ swimwear showroom, cruise 2009 is about showing some skin and styles that can go from the beach to the street. Bandeau and triangle-top bikinis with Brazilian bottoms and revealing one-pieces come in a variety of prints and fabrics, such as metallics; animal, tribal and tropical prints, and jewel tones. Add-ons include cleaned-up embellishments, ruffles and ruching, strap detail and reversible styles. “The Miami girl vacations in glam places including her own home,” said Sari Sloane, vice president of buying and merchandising for Intermix. — Rebecca Kleinman

LAS VEGASSin City might as well be called Skin City. “In Vegas, it is all about your body,” said Cynthia Owens-Thompson, swimwear buyer for MGM Mirage’s hotel stores, where Sauvage, Luli Fama and Gottex are leading brands. Bikinis rule the market, “The skimpier, the better,” she said. If one-pieces do enter the picture, they’re monokinis with ample cutouts. Metallic hues and animal prints never go out of style. And prices soar into the hundreds — suits average around $150 at MGM Mirage properties — with little resistance from Las Vegas sunbathers. “If it is a suit that they like, price is definitely not an issue,” said Owens-Thompson. — R.B.

20 WWD SWIM

A look at swim trends from around the globe as the cruise 2009 season approaches.

LOS ANGELESThis is Hollywood, baby, where the garments that sell are celebrity approved. Swimwear is no exception. When tattoo art-covered Ed Hardy suits showed up on the likes of Britney Spears, Los Angeles shoppers had to have them. “Ed Hardy swimwear is going crazy,” said Melanie Michaud, director of marketing for 17-unit swimwear chain Diane’s Beachwear. “Overall, if you look at the brands that have been the most successful, they have had great marketing campaigns and understand fit.” Besides Ed Hardy, she predicts fashion-forward labels such as B. Swim and Betsey Johnson will continue to score with Los Angeles beach bunnies.

— Rachel Brown

on the horizon

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BRAZILBrazil is known for its sandy beaches and hot bodies. Not surprisingly, popular cuts for cruise 2009 will feature lots of slim string bikinis and cutout one-pieces. According to a spokeswoman at Brazil-based Cia Maritima swimwear, suits will feature prints galore, with geometric and contrasting animal prints such as zebra, cheetah, leopard and tiger. The color palette ranges from shades of lavender, lilac and eggplant to burnt orange and royal blue.

— Michael Agosta

ITALYLooking good on the beach is as fundamental for Italian women as a glass of Barolo. And this season, there’s something for all with bikinis, tankinis and even one-piece swimsuits high on the list for seagoers. At Argentovivo, the hottest looks are Seventies-inspired swimwear à la Bianca Jagger, with dramatic one-pieces in fluorescent colors and sexier monochromatic black or white tones. A more romantic undercurrent rules at Pin Up Stars with a sea of fairy tale iconography in multicolored flashes and even a naïve version of the Ugly Duckling. African and Indian tribal effects set the mood at Parah, while the elegance of Capri and the exclusivity of Saint-Tropez influenced the Poisson D’Amour collection via pastel hues such as baby pink, sky blue and lilac. Flowers, butterflies, stars and some retro polkadots and stripes also continue to get the green light.

— Chiara Hughes

BRAZIL

AUSTRALIAWith styles named after iconic beach

babes such as Bo Derek and Bond girl Honey Rider, Zimmermann’s cruise 2009 collection has a retro modern feel. Bodycon balconettes, underwired construction and padding are featured in Fifties looking bikini tops and cutout maillots, while soft, self-tie triangle and string bikinis, in both geometric prints and plain chambray, boast an Eighties vibe. Frills abound, bikini pants are smaller than ever — by request from customers — and the collection revolves around seven signature prints, including an abstract dot print and a folkloric Russian “babushka” design. Cute silver horse or gold feather metal hardware trims dangle off strings and ties.

— Patty Huntington

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UNITED KINGDOM Britain may not be famed for balmy weather, but bathers sporting bikinis in blinding brights and festooned with bling will raise temperatures at Brighton Beach next summer. Structured styles with Seventies and Pop Art details

will be key looks at High Street style mecca Topshop, while PPQ will take a sport-luxe bent with contrasting trimmings and prints. Lovers of bold colors will have the option of saffron-hued embellished bikinis at Tara Matthews, while Elizabeth Hurley’s spring-summer collection will feature coral shades with gold chains. For shrinking violets, Luella Bartley’s collection with O’Neill, dubbed Luella for O’Neill, will offer pretty floral prints.

— Louise Bartlett

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Argentovivo Pin Up Stars

Meet Me in

Look back to simpler times and retro-infused styles at The Surf Lodge.

DNAxy’s nylon and spandex swim dress and Nautica’s polyester and spandex bikini. OPPOSITE: Betsey Johnson’s micronylon and spandex triangle top and Bulga’s cotton denim skirt. Vans espadrilles.

A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz’s Tactel and spandex bandeau. Moscot aviators; Amrita Singh bangle.OPPOSITE: Loeffl er Randall nylon and spandex bikini. Ben-Amun by Isaac Manevitz bangle.

Syla by Sylvie Cachay’s Meryl microfi ber nylon and Lycra spandex boyshorts and APC’s cotton top. Goorin Bros. hat; Alexis Bittar earrings; Vans espadrilles.OPPOSITE: Michael Kors’ polyamide and Lycra high-waist bikini.

Photographed by Talaya Centeno at The Surf Lodge in Montauk, N.Y.; model: Karina T./New York Model Management; hair and makeup by Souhi Lee at De Facto for Armani; styled by Kim Friday

28 WWD SWIM

Pattern play looks fresh in a pumped-up palette.1

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1. Rosa Chá polyamide and spandex one-shoulder top. 2. Vix polyamide and elastane swimsuit. 3. Tibi nylon and elastane one-piece. 4. Sauvage Luxe nylon and Lycra bottom. 5. La Blanca nylon and spandex halterneck swimsuit. 6. Trina Turk nylon and spandex monokini. 7. Erickson Beamon sunglasses.

SWIM atWWD

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C’mon in, the water’s perfect.

Holiday RoadMara Hoffman launches swim.

WHILE PAST SEA-sons have included a sampling of bikinis and maillots, designer Mara Hoffman hasn’t had the time to develop a full swimwear collection. But this year, instead of designing her usual holiday line Hoffman turned her focus toward things she could wear on holiday.

“I think it’s more of a passion to do swim than satin dresses, for sure,” said Hoffman, who launched a full collection of swim, cover-ups and beach bags for resort. “That kind of exotic tropical feeling is much stronger for me.”

Hoffman hopes to capture a “traveled, Seventies Africa moment” with her eight bikinis and three five-piece styles, many of them done in exotic prints designed by Hoffman and Klee Van Schoonhoven.

Chiffon dashikis and vibrant cover-ups round out the theme. As for the suits, there’s definitely a sexy tribal vibe, but Hoffman hopes she’s provided enough structure and coverage via strong spandex and exacting fit to appeal to a broad customer base.

“We kept in mind everything from the young skimpy bikini girl to the woman who just had a baby and needs a little more support,” she said, naming her one-pieces as a prime example of something “sexy and cute, but doesn’t leave you hanging out all over the place.”

— Jessica Iredale

Looks from Mara Hoffman.

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ones that may be just starting out,” she said. Pat Schaefer, buyer for Atlanta Beach, a swim specialty store

with two locations, said that concerns about fit and shipping have led her to narrow her vendor structure to proven resources. Topping her list are Tommy Bahama, Eres, Robin Piccone and Sauvage.

Though business this year has been strong, Schaefer is cautious about the coming year.

“Everyone is concerned about gas and food prices, and it seems frivolous to spend lots of money on a swimsuit,” she said. “I’m making sure I’m on the sales floor, and staying alert, because nobody knows what’s going to happen.”

Continued from page 14

’tis the season

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