wwi issue 98

9 8

9 770791 880006

ISSN 0791-8801

Routes! Coomloughra, Maumtrasna, Causeway Coast, Wicklow Loughs AND MORE!...

Crossword Competition! - 1,000 in prizes must be won!

SOUTH EAST SPECIAL10 LOOP WALKS

WHATS IT FOR?The Future of Irelands Countryside

SPANISHSCRAMBLERock heaven in the Sierra de Aitana

FLEECESFLEECES 20 TOP TECH TOPS TRIED!

A PASSAGETHROUGH INDIATrekking in Uttarakhand

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Editor: Conor OHagan

Consultant Editor: Martin Joyce

Design: Grand Designs

Technical Consultant: Andy Callan

Environmental Consultant: Dick Warner

Maps: EastWest Mapping

Contributors:Judy Armstrong, Gavin Bate, Andy Callan, Keith Collie, Zoe Devlin, Damien Enright,Helen Fairbairn, Michael Fewer, Denis Gill, Tom Hutton, Gareth McCormack, Dick Warner

Photographers:Judy Armstrong, Eoin Clarke, Damien Enright, Tom Hutton, Gareth McCormack, Richard Mills

Published by:Athletic Promotions Limited,Edelweiss, Cushina, Portarlington, Co Laois.Tel: 05786 45343Email: [email protected] No. 0791-8801

Printed by:W&G Baird Ltd

Distributed by:EM News Distribution and Mailbag

Cover photo: Scrambling in Spains Sierra de Aitana.

Photo by Eugene Mulholland

Lough Acoose, Kerry Photo: Kris OBrien

InspirationITS SOMETHING we all need. Not just for all the obvious topical reasons, but as

part of our regular lives. And yes, in these difficult times, perhaps more than ever we

need inspiration on a national level.

In this issue, Im delighted to report, theres more inspiration than you could shake a

stick at. From Diana Gleadhills account of Uttarakhand and the welcome she and her

fellow-travellers received from strangers, to Tom Huttons unashamedly gushing praise

for the Coomloughra Horseshoe.

The Coomloughra Horseshoe. If you havent walked this classic route, start making

plans; I tried it for the first time immediately after receiving Toms piece. Having let

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26On The Cover14 The Homes of UttarakhandDiana Gleadhill describes the walk of a lifetime through the villages of Uttarakhand, in Indias mountainous northwest

36 Placenames of the Wicklow UplandsThe legacy of the past in the names of the present. By Barry Dalby, EastWest Mapping

40 A League Apart?One of Irelands most celebrated natural wonders is being seriously mismanaged, argues walking guide Tony Birtill

43 Our Countryside - Whats it For?Dick Warner challenges traditional assumptions about land usage in Ireland - and offers some alternatives

44 Just Dropping ByForeign visitors will be flying in all shapes and sizes this winter. By Dick Warner

46 Spanish ScrambleCROWS walking club spent five days in Spains Sierra De Aitana. Hills were climbed, fun was had, as Eugene Mulholland reports.

Routes18 Between Two LakesDenis Gill describes an historic walk between Loughs Dan and Tay

22 Maumtrasnas Eastern CorriesHelen Fairbairn recommends a trip around two glacial corries in a remote corner of south County Mayo.

26 Along the Port PathGareth McCormack explores a scenic coastal path linking Portstewart and Portrush on the Causeway Coast.

30 Coomloughra HorseshoeSome walks are so good that you find yourself wanting to complete them time and time again. For Tom Hutton, its the magnificent Coomaloughra Horseshoe

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Contents Issue 98, September/October 2010

34

Walking World Ireland is always pleased to receive articles, but publication cannot be guaranteed. The magazine is not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos/slides submitted. Unsolicited articles will be returned only if accompanied by return postage. Guidelines regarding articles and photos are available for potential contributors on receipt of return postage. All photos/slides must bear the name of the sender on each photo/slide. Captions should accompany them. No part of this magazine may be used or reproduced without the express permission of the editor or publishers, and even if such permission is given, the source must be acknowledged when used. This also applies to advertising originated by the publishers. Whilst every care has been taken to describe the routes and terrain accurately, the publishers and contributors accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained as a result of using this magazine. Mapping based on Ordnance Survey Ireland by permission of the Government. Government of Ireland Permit No 7208.

Gear52 Fleeced!The warm and fuzzy world of polypropylene gets the Andy Callan treatment

Looped Walks - South East SpecialA selection of 10 looped walks in the South East, from easy strolls to challenging treks.

Ballinacourty Loop 62Devils Bit Loop 62Greenane Loop 63Glenpatrick Loop 63Askamore Loop 64Slieveboy Loop 64Windfarm Loop 65Clogrennan Loop 65Fraughan Loop 65Pheasant Loop 66

Regulars8 NewsA sprinkling of events, announcements, people and places from around the walking world.

34 By The WayMichael Fewer on a tragic history etched on Irelands hills.

25 Subscription OfferSubscribe to Irelands No.1 Outdoor Magazine at 22% off the normal price!

62 Crossword by Zodrick20 Craghoppers fleeces to be won!

52

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See Page 60The Best of Ireland and the World On Foot

46

With hundreds of events planned for Sunday 3rd October, the third National Trails Day is set to be bigger than ever, celebrating the variety of trails, paths andtracks available for walkers in some of Irelands most beautiful countryside, including forests, mountains and lakes.

Tens of thousands of people are expected to take part, with more than 60 woodland, lakeshore, hillside and mountain walks ar-ranged as part of the programme to increase public awareness of the recreational facilities in their areas.

Now in its third year the cross-community National Trails Day has grown from strength to strength. In 2009 more than 10,000 people from across Ireland got out into the country-side and enjoyed trails in a variety of ways. Events for National Trails Day 2010, which will all be offered free of charge, include bat walks, fun cycles, family orienteering, horse riding, canoeing and nature trail walks to name just a few!

National Trails Day is an all-Ireland event organised by the Department of Commu-nity, Equality and Gaeltacht Affairs, Coillte, the National Trails Office of the Irish Sports Council and Filte Ireland and is aimed at increasing awareness about the fantastic rec-reation opportunities in the Irish countryside and encourage people to experience a trail in their locality.

At the launch of National Trails Day, Minis-ter for Community Affairs Pat Carey said the purpose of the event was to get people to go

out and see what was in their own areas. He said Ireland had some of the best tracks and trails in the European countryside.

The Minister, who claims to have climbed Carrauntoohil three times in one week in his youth, said Ireland was one of the best places in the world to walk.

We are blessed in this country and my de-partment has carried out major walk schemes over the last few years, and the sports council and Coillte and Filte Ireland have put in place an impressive network of high-quality trails.

This year the Countryside Access and Ac-tivities Network (CAAN) will be leading the organisation and marketing of National Trails Day in Northern Ireland and will be offering a range of activities on trails throughout the country.

Northern Ireland offers a wide range of unique trails both on land and water, every-thing from have a go paddling sessions on the Strangford Lough Canoe Trail to venturing through the foothills of the Mourne Moun-tains along the Mourne Way. For the slightly less adventurous, National Trails Day is also offering events such as a family fun cycle through Gosford Forest Park and an autumn wildlife walk through the National Trust grounds of Crom Estate in County Ferman-agh said Chris Armstrong from CAAN.

The main aim of the day is to celebrate the trails we all have on offer and encourage people of all ages and backgrounds to get outdoors. However, National Trails Day is also about promoting the idea that we need to protect and maintain these trails and October 3rd will also hopefully raise awareness of the

great work of the key agencies who strive to do this.

National Trails Day events in Northern Ire-land include the Lagan Canal Boat Rally and Towpath Walk, a woodland and lakeside walk through Hillsborough Forest and a cycle along the Newry Canal. There will also be a short ramble along a section of the Mourne Way from Rostrevor to Kilbroney Park. The Canoe Association of Northern Ireland (CANI), in partnership with Clearsky Adventure Cen-tre, are running a canoeing taster session on Strangford Lough with the National Trust offering a walk on the wild side through Murlough National Nature Reserve.

A listing can be obtained on www.national-trailsday.ie and www.nationaltrailsday.co.uk

Biggest Ever National Trails Day Launched

8

News

Master craftsmen

For more information and stockists contact Bramwell International 00 44 15395 60214 www.bramwell-int.com [email protected]

Meindl stands for master craftsmanship... and has done so for more than 11 generations and 300 years.

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WWI Going Digital!October 11th will be a landmark in the 17-year history of Walking World Ireland, with the launch of our first ever Digital Edition. Not before time, admittedly; WWI has been less than quick off the line in joining the online community, but we hope to make up in quality what we have lacked in speed. WWI Digital will provide access to a sample of articles from the current print edition, plus articles from the archive including routes at home and abroad. Gear tips, comment, an events calendar and a lot more will also feature.This will be the start of what we hope will become a valuable online community for walkers in Ireland and far beyond. Join us at www.walkingworldireland.com and let us know what you think!

Master craftsmen

For more information and stockists contact Bramwell International 00 44 15395 60214 www.bramwell-int.com [email protected]

Meindl stands for master craftsmanship... and has done so for more than 11 generations and 300 years.

Burma Pro MFS A Revolution in Comfort

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For Arts SakeOne Of Walkings most daunting challenges will return in 2011, when the Art ONeill Chal-lenge, the 55km night hike from Dublin Castle which celebrates he escape of Red Hugh ODonnell and Art and Henry ONeill in 1592, is held on January 7.

The 2009 hike was organised to raise funds and awareness for the Stuart Mangan Appeal and proved to be a huge hit with many challengers vow-ing to return. The hike starts at midnight and is fully supported with hot drinks and food and guides for the navigationally challenged!

Transport will also be provided out of glenmalure valley and back to civilisation for all those tired but elated challengers!

Check www.artoneillchallenge.com for full information and entry details. There will also be a gps navigation training night in early December for those who would like to do the challenge unguided. Full details of this are also on the site.

The organisers promise a challenge not to be missed and the perfect post Christmas kickstarter!

Sorry!the gremlins made a few successful attacks on our last issue; the most serious came at the end of Denis Gills Lugnaquilla from the East; a fine piece which was marred by the loss of its final paragraph. As far as we know, no WWI readers were left stranded on Corrigasleg-gaun, but we do apologise for the omission. For the record, well be publish-ing the lost paragraph in our digital edition, which goes live on October 11. Apologies also to Denis for any embarrassment caused.

NEXT ISSUEWWI 99 will hit the shelves on November 12.

Dont miss it!

TRAILTREKKER brings out the numbers

10

News

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OXfams epiC trailtrekker chal-lenge saw more than 400 participants set off early on Saturday 4th September. The gruel-ling 100km route ran from Donard Park in Newcastle to Carlingford Sailing Club, with a target time inside 36 hours.

After walking night and day through the Mournes, the Ring of Gullion and the Cooley Peninsula, the fi rst team of four to

cross the line in a time of 17 hours and 43 minutes were Timmehh, from UK and Ireland. The team members, who met while at university, were captain Nick Dillon, Tom Blackmore, Gordon Baird and Colin Caunter.

Team captain Nick Dillon said: This has been one of the toughest challenges any of us have done yet also the most rewarding.

The scale of the 100km challenge, the boat crossing over Carlingord Lough, and walking through the night its certainly different to anything weve attempted before! Were exhausted right now, with blisters and muscle pains, yet exhilarated at the same time. The joy at what weve achieved both for ourselves and for Oxfam will no doubt only start to sink in over the coming days.

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Car Park CloggingI enjoyed Denis Gills piece asking walkers not to clog up the car park at Glenmalure Lodge. Heres another angle on this though: Recently we left our car at Crone car park to walk part of the Wicklow Way. In our absence someone cut the central locking cables in our car in an unsuccessful attempt to break into it. Since then, every second person we have meet tells us this is a big problem for people parking at remote car parks in Wicklow. For that reason we, as relatively new walkers, are on the lookout for car parks attached to places where it isnt as easy to go in and do harm. That may explain, at least partly, why the car park at Glenmalure Lodge gets clogged up. We have never been there but we will probably go now and we will make it our business to buy something there at the beginning and end of our walk which, in any case, never takes the whole day. We noticed that in the Peak District in England even the most remote car park has a pay and display machine - about 4.50 for a day if I remember correctly - and a man in a box to supervise it all. The man in the box hopefully deters thieves and I would be happy to see such a system in operation here.In the absence of that system, though, do experienced walkers have any tips on how to minimise the chances of a (in our case, though covered by insurance on this occasion - not on the next) 2,500 break-in attempt?

Padraig OMorain

Eco GridFollowing on from reading the excellent article by Denis Gill in your magazine issue number 97, I decided to have a look at the walk and in particular check out the observations regarding the Eco Grid trail. I found the trail to be quite useful; admittedly not ideal but certainly better than the wet firebreak that I previously used to access Slieve Maan / Carrawaystick. In addition, the unsteady nature of the trail, while demanding careful footwork might also reduce the chances of meeting groups of mountain bikers, something which Ive experienced on the boardwalk on Djouce and even on the Spinc in Glendalough.

Tony Seale

Dogs LifeMy name is Juno and I am a Wicklow Collie, last Saturday my owners took me for a lovely walk which they had discovered in Walking World Ireland this month. It was up Lugnaquilla via Carrawaystick. The walk started very well and then we met the black plastic stuff and I found it very difficult to walk on and it hurt my paws very much, I tried to avoid it but that was not always possible. However, can I say that the rest of the walk was lovely and I did enjoy the view from the top of Lugnaquilla - my owners enjoyed the day as well - but I heard them say that they were not impressed by the black plastic stuff either. Juno

Trek West Walking Festival

12

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a neW Mayo-based company specialising in outdoor activity breaks in the West of Ireland is organising a weekend Walking Festival, taking place on the 2nd and 3rd of October to coincide with National Trails Day on the 3rd Oct.

The fi rst day of the festival will challenge walkers to the 20km Bonniconlon Loop taking in the Ox Mountains and surrounding lakes. By Saturday evening participants will have earned their place at the Festival Banquet, followed by craic agus ceol at an award winning restaurant and bar in Ballina, then on Sunday the itinerary will be split between a morning and afternoon session at Lough Muck and Lough Callow near Foxford.

More information on Trek West and the Walking Festival can be found at www.trekwesttours.ie

Club Cualann organises hill walks every Sundays mainly in the Wicklow area and occasionally in the Mournes or Cooley mountains. In addition the club organizes away trips to other parts of Ireland and abroad. The club is affi liated to Mountaineering Ireland and next year will be celebrating its 30th anniversary. In addition to hill walking there is also an active rock climbing group within the club.

New members are not required to have any prior knowledge of navigation or mountain skills as experienced members are always on hand. On the second Sunday of every month the club organises an introductory walk aimed in particular at new members with little previous hill walking experience. In addition we run an annual navigation training day for new members. Full details of all Club Cualanns activities can be obtained from www.clubcualann.ie or the Club Secretary David Pollard ([email protected] or 087 6892427).

Wayfarers CelebrateThe Wayfarers Association is celebrating 40 years this year, and to mark the occasion the club is organising a Raf e and Monster Sale in aid of the Dublin and Wicklow Mountain Rescue Team and The Glen of Imaal Mountain Rescue Team.

Wayfarers members and friends will be selling tickets for the raf e on Saturday 25th September and 26th September at as many of the car parks in the Dublin and Wicklow uplands area as possible. Tickets will cost 2.00 each. Your support for this worthy cause would be greatly appreciated!

On Sunday 10th October the Club will host a Monster Sale in the Glendalough Hotel, Glendalough Co. Wicklow from 12 noon until 7pm in aid of the Rescue Teams. If you would like to help out on the day or donate a gift please contact Frances Hannon, Wayfarers Association (E:[email protected]; M 086 8385101 (after 6pm).

Club Notes

Connemara GeographicWalking-Based business initiatives and local tourism projects continue to multiply across Ireland.

A new local walking guide service Conne-mara Geographic is now available to walkers in Letterfrack, Connemara. Local landowners and tourism providers have trained as walk-ing guides and can offer various guided walks in the Twelve Bens (right), the national park and more. Phone: 087 222 8538 or seewww.connemarawalking.com

Portable Healthimmediate aCCess to personal medical details and records are among the features of 999 Medical ID a new USB card that stores health information. The credit-card sized, portable database plugs into any PC to bring up all im-portant health records and personal information including: Health conditions Health insur-ance policies Doctor, specialist and pharmacy contact information Family health history Allergies and reactions Power of attorney X-rays & CT scans. 999MedicalID comprises a slim USB key, integrated into a plastic wallet sized card, that enables the holder to carry medical records at all times. Preloaded software opens automatically when plugged into a PC and the bearer simply

inputs details which can be instantly updated at any time. Details of the card can also be uploaded onto a safe password-protected online service Medical ID Access that acts as a personal On-line Medical Record Depository and accessible via a secure internet link. The 999MedicalID card is available to pur-chase for 34.99 on www.999medicalid.com or through ticketmaster outlets in Jervis Centre, Stephens Green and Tallaght.

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Annascaul Walks Festivalthe pOpular Annascaul Walks Festival opens its 2010 programme with a night walk of Meelin Hill on Friday October 22. On Saturday walkers can choose from Mount Brandon (tough), Breacanna (moderate) or the Tom Crean Trail (easy). Sunday offers Beenoskee (difficult), C Chulainns Bed (moderate) and Keeldubh Valley (easy). On Monday, the final day of the festival, there will be a walk to Bulls Head and a Horror Trail. Soup and sandwiches will be available after walks in Hanafins Bar. Transport provided for some walks.For any enquiries contact John: 066 9157947 or Tom: 086 1207193

Head MasterfOr generatiOns of Dubliners, a walk on Howth Head has been as much a part of family tradition as the Sunday roast.

Now Dubliner Ciaran Gahan has set up Howth Guided Tours to encourage people to see more of what the Howth Peninsula has to offer. His route around Howth is designed to be fully accessible to all abilities and ages and can be shortened or lengthened to suit group requirements.

The tour begins in Howth village, with a short walk to the entrance of Deerpark estate and on to Howth Castle. Ciaran explains local history from the Viking past right up until the present day, with a walk through the world-renowned Rhododendron gardens boasting over 400 recorded species.

The tour continues to a 2500 BC Megalithic Tomb known locally as Aideens grave. The climb to the top of Muck Rock will give spectacular 270 degrees views of the surrounding areas, including the islands of Irelands Eye and Lambay, along with views of Dublin city and the Wicklow mountains. After a fragrant walk across heather and gorse meadows, the popular cliff walk, the tour finishes back at Howth Village.Ciaran can be contacted at 086 896 7035 for details, or see: www.howthguidedtours.com

The Homes of UttarakhandDiana Gleadhill describes the walk of a lifetime through the villages of Uttarakhand, in Indias mountainous northwest

14

A thousand shining steps stretched before us, zig-zagging upwards between ancient oaks, pines and crimson-flowered rhododendrons. The sun behind

us glittered on the mica in the rock in this corner of northern India Uttarakhand - lying between Nepal to the east and Tibet (China) to the north. Above us, against a blue sky, two Mountain Hawk-Eagles circled effortlessly on warm thermals, while dozens of lizards toasted themselves into action on the hot rocks. We were en route to the village of Jhuni, the highest place we would stay at 2,500m overlooked by the snowy Himalayan peaks of Nanda Devi, Trisul and Panchachuli. It was a thousand feet - a tough enough climb - to be followed the next day by an even harder climb up to where the snow still lingered at somewhere around 2,700m.

Our party of seven from County Down had left Delhi by train to the railhead at Kathgodam 10 days earlier for a trekking holiday with Village Ways - a remarkable four-year-old, award-winning responsible tourism initiative, offering an opportunity to meet the local people and experience their culture. Designed in partnership with local communities, Village Ways builds on local resources to provide practical and sustainable benefits for the local rural communities, which, in remote places such as northern India, often struggle to survive and as they lose economic viability and their young people head for the cities, so too they lose traditional knowledge, culture and skills. So as active partners in the business of tourism, the communities share in the work as guides, porters, house-keepers, and of course cooks, utilizing the local farmers produce. Because these communities live well off the beaten track, the idea is that the tourist walks accompanied by a guide and using porters to carry the larger luggage - using age-old pathways - from one village to the next, thus discovering at first hand, the traditions, local architecture, flora and fauna, not to mention the physical effort involved in simply existing in this very beautiful but tough part of the world.

Village Ways offers several different itineraries; we chose to go to the Binsar Sanctuary and then on to Super Supi. We flew Jet Airways from Heathrow to Delhi at the end of February for a two-week holiday.

BinsarIt was, to put it mildly, a hair-raising drive from Kathgodam, in the dark, up and around hairpin bends to where we spent the first night at the small town of Bhimtal. When driving in this part of India, the horn is as important as the accelerator. Passing on blind corners is the

norm, and indeed they may be the only place wide enough to pass. The following morning we set off again and after a few hours nerve-rattling drive arrived safe and reasonably sound at Khali Estate, an incredibly serene and beautiful 26 acres of land set in the Binsar Sanctuary. Binsar was originally the summer capital of the Chand Kings, who ruled over Kumaon from the 11th to 18th centuries, before becoming the home of Sir Henry Ramsay, the commisioner of Kumaon from 1856 to 1884. The King of Kumaon as

he was popularly known amongst the British literati, built this beautiful colonial bungalow which was later purchased from Sir Henrys family for Mahatma Ghandi. The Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary was established in 1988, for the conservation and protection of the shrinking broad-leaf oak forests of the Central Himalayan region and the wildlife associated with the forest.

On the afternoon we arrived, we met Raju, our delightful and knowledgeable guide for the next few days who, determined to discover how fit these seven elderly Irish were, (apologies to one of our team who hadnt yet even attained her sixtieth birthday!) took us for a short walk to a high place at 2,500m called Zero Point, from where we marvelled at the panoramic view of this area of the Himalayas, encompassing Kedarnath Peak, Shivling, Trisul and the majestic peaks of Nanda Devi, and Annapurna to the east in Nepal.

GonapOur first days four hour walk was mostly downhill to the village of Gonap at 1,900m. I say downhill advisedley, as there were also little uphill passages. Our larger bags were carried by girl porters easily lifting on to their heads what we would deem pretty heavy, while all we had to carry were

our daysacks. It was sunshine all the way - such a treat from the grim February weather in Ireland. We encountered some black-faced monkeys and many different birds on our trek.

On arriving at Gonap, we were introduced to the Holi Festival or Festival of Colours. Holi is a spring festival celebrated by Hindus, Sikhs and others. The festival is celebrated at the end of the winter season on the last full moon day of the lunar month which usually falls in the later part of February or early March, and, as we were soon to discover, is exuberantly celebrated by men throwing coloured dyes over each other and anyone else who came within their range. The Holi Festival continued for most of our time at Binsar. We thoroughly enjoyed the singing and dancing by the local ladies in their jewel-coloured saris, although when encouraged to join in, I cant say that our dress, especially footwear, was quite as elegant as theirs.

Kathdara and RisalKathdara was our next village where we spent two nights. One morning we walked to explore a huge landslide which we could see from our little house, en route excitingly finding leopard tracks and hearing Barking Deer. There was a

If you had a freezing shower the previous night, you got first choice the next night. Who needs a shower every night anyway?

15

tiny museum in the village, displaying old farming and household tools, interestingly to our guides, many of them exactly the same as one would find in Ireland.

On to Risal a longer walk, 350m over a pass, past a 13th century temple with a cricket pitch on a near-by flat area, and down to the village, passing women in dresses of bright pink, orange and torquoise, carrying enormous loads of both sticks and hay on their heads. Then a perilously steep descent through trees, slipping and sliding on dry pine needles, down to Risal village.

The long-established paths we were walking mostly wound around the contours of the hills, often with steep drops of maybe 300m falling away beside our track, into impenetrable forest. Often we crossed little streams, sometimes bridged, sometimes not. Terraced fields cut their way down the steep hillsides, holding very young wheat and barley. It was still too early to sow the potato crop. Indian hemp (cannabis) is also grown providing three products; fibre from the stems, oil from the seeds and narcotic from the leaves and flowers. Near the

villages, cultivated fruit trees were in blossom, their pink and white flowers so pretty against the bright blue sky. To my surprise, there were quite a lot of banana trees. They are covered up during winter, and set free from their wrappings as soon as the frosts are over. Hay is stacked up around either a tree or a handy pole which helps to keep it secure and encourage drying.

Our accommodation in each village was in a local house one which had either been deserted or had been purpose-built. In either case, they were immaculate. Our two married couples had rooms upstairs, as with the locals, while the three ladies shared a downstairs room, normally reserved for livestock! The food was totally Indian vegetarian. Occasionally we had

eggs, but disastrously, all the local hens had been slaughtered during the Bird Flu fright which was a huge loss to these people, so all the eggs had to be brought in from Almora, the local market town, some distance away. The bedding was fine with surprisingly comfortable mattresses and pillows. However, the solar-powered hot water system was somewhat erratic - mostly working, but sometimes not. Naturally enough, there never was enough hot water for seven showers in the evenings. So we had to establish a rota system if you had a freezing shower the previous night, you got first choice the next night. Who needs a shower every night anyway?

NamasteDalar, at 1,835m, was Rajus home town. Our walk there was initially down through a pretty valley where we lounged around on the grass bird-watching, but, as the old credo goes never give away high ground! and so we had to make it up again with a very steep climb through ancient woodland, but accompanied by lots of birdsong. Rajus family lived in a house with the most wonderful view over a valley. His mother, very much the matriarch, ordered her daughter-in-law to bring us tea, while his father, a tall, proud man sat, caressing my walking stick, fingering the crook handle which he

16

loved, to the extent that I gave the stick to him. Here we regretfully said goodbye to Raju and met our new guide, Khim, who took us the following day, via lunch at Bageshwar, up more tortuous bends, to Supi where we decanted from our vehicles for a very steep climb up a flight of steps to Super Supi.

We stayed here one night, taking a brilliant walk the following morning steeply up to the tiny village of Gullutave offering superb views. As we climbed, we watched monkeys cavorting in the trees and local girls sipping nectar from the rhododendron flowers. Each little house we passed kept buffalo and we watched as they pulled the ancient wooden plough planting the first potatoes of the season. And, as everywhere else, friendly neighbours welcoming us with the local namaste greeting.

We left Supi for Jhuni early in the morning, walking via Givaradar, arriving at the school in time to meet the delightful children who sang for us. Then it was the serious thousand steps up to our destination. But what a destination. Superb views. Glorious rhododendrons, now pink as well as red. And, amazingly, as we sat on our little balcony a huge dish of chips! Yummy. The stars that night, with no other light interference, were supreme, the Milky Way stretching above us in all its shining glory. The following day we managed to get to 2700m we were so euphoric, youd have thought wed conquered Everest - here and there wading through remains of the winter snow and experiencing some small snow flurries.

From Jhuni, it was downhill all the way. Back to Supi for a night and thence by car down the hair-raising switchbacks to Kathgodam and the train to Delhi. We had all enjoyed a really wonderful trip, not least because it was helping bring much needed revenue to these delightful and hospitable people of Uttarakhand.

Diana Gleadhill is the author of kamchatka a Journal & guide to russias land of ice & fire Odyssey Publications.

17

Secreted in the heart of a heathery wilderness and surrounded on all sides by stunning mountain scenery are two of Wicklows most picturesque lakes: Lough Dan and Lough Tay, awaiting your discovery and exploration. The glacial valley of Luggala was excavated over millennia by trundling ice, leaving behind water

borne boulders and debris to restrict the escape of its cold waters. Deep within were formed these two mountain tarns, linked by the Cloghoge River valley in an amazing area of outstanding natural beauty that rivals the better known Glendalough as the glen of the two lakes.

Due to the not inconsiderable area of mountains, moorland, forest and valley there to explore, it is necessary, nay essential, to have at least three separate and distinct walks to appreciate and discover a picturesque terrain that is entirely the domain of the walker.

Our first walk in this trilogy is a gentle trek which is quite literally an overview from the heights of Sleamaine across all of the immediate area and is suitable for a long summers evening or half day trek as it explores the history of the surrounding locale with truly outstanding mountain scenery.

Getting to the StartFrom east of the mountains follow the M50/M11 to Kilmacanogue to turn at the flyover onto the R755. Drive up the Long Hill to Calary Bog, then after nearly 11km turn right at a filter-lane onto the R759 signposted to Sally Gap. Continue uphill for nearly 3km to park just before the forest ends at a forest entrance on the left by a Wicklow Way signpost. GR: O174.063

From west of the mountains take the N81 to Hollywood and turn onto the R756 to enjoy the drive across the Wicklow Gap via Glendalough to Laragh. From Laragh follow the R755 via Annamoe into Roundwood. Just beyond the village fork left for 2km to an offset crossroads, turn left and follow as above.

Between Two Lakes

Between Two Lakes

18

View down to Cloghoge Valley including luggala or Fancy Mountain above lough tay from the slopes of Sleamaine

looking towards lough Dan and Scarr Mountain

Denis Gill describes an historic walk between Loughs Dan and Tay Photos by Eoin Clarke

RouteFrom the forest entrance, follow the Wicklow Way markers into the trees along an undulating forest track bearing south onto the townland of Sleamaine with an enticing glimpse to the north of the rocky summit of Knocknacloghoge Mountain framed between two hills.

As height is gained, wonderful views open up to the east, panning down across the fields to Roundwood, one of the highest villages in Ireland where the top of the town

claims [Hotly disputed Ed.] the highest pub in Ireland.

Beyond the village are the tranquil waters of Vartry Reservoir while to the north from the distinctive outline of the Great Sugar Loaf Mountain a ribbon of hills run south to the Devils Glen forming a barrier between the uplands plateau and the coastal plain.

Continue to follow the Wicklow Way; beyond a gate begin a descent below Ballinafunshoge Hill before leaving the track at a marker to turn hard right onto an uphill trail. Crest the ridge to reveal the dark waters of Wicklows largest natural lake, Lough Dan as it nestles below a panorama of previously unseen summits.

Directly ahead is the long ridge climbing from Paddock Hill onto Scarr Mountain, with an isolated and sparsely populated glen in the hollow below Carrigeenshinnagh separating Scarr from Kanturk (also known as Brown Mountain), which in turn is separated from Knocknacloghoge Mountain by the delta of the Inchavore River.

Lein

ster

The Vartry Water SystemBy the middle of the 19th century, the population of Dublin had increased to 300,000 and the city had suffered outbreaks of cholera, typhus and other diseases associated with contaminated and untreated canal water then being used, being totally unsuited for the cities needs. After much debate it was decided to build the Vartry Water System.

Between 1862 and 1868 an earthen dam was built across the Vartry River to construct the Lower Reservoir which holds 11.3 billion litres of water to a depth of 18.3 metres with the smaller Upper Reservoir added in 1923 holding 5.6 billion litres of water.

Clumps of daffodils growing outside an abandoned cottage doorway are a poignant reminder of the families that once lived here.

19

Walking through second abandoned settlement with views of Knocknacloghoge

on the slopes of Ballinafunshoge

Notice in the hollow below the summit of Scarr Mountain the remnants of Bartons Wood, originally planted by the Barton family of Glendalough House. Alas, the wood is now so devastated by fire and storm that only a scattering of mature trees remains.

Carry on downhill to meet a forest track, leave the Wicklow Way and turn right following the track as it contours north above the devastation of a clear-felled forest area that serves to improve the views across Lough Dan to the Scouts Adventure Centre along the western shore near Old Bridge. After nearly a kilometre, when the track comes to an abrupt end in the hollow below and surrounded on three sides by forest, are the ruins of an abandoned village known locally as the Scotch Village.

Records show that during the 19th century there were as many as 20 homesteads down by the Cloghoge Brook and nearly as many again up here on the slopes of Sleamaine. They must have been a fairly lawless population, as there was even a police barracks down in the valley!

Sadly, these village settlements were decimated and depopulated during the great famine of the 1840s and the Scottish community emigrated en masse to Canada.

After exploring the village, behind the largest house with a tiny attic window on

the gable end, follow a dry stone wall that leads to a pleasant trail descending north-eastwards into the forest. Emerge from the trees for a spectacular vista of the Cloghoge Valley with Lough Tay nestling beneath the dramatic crags of Fancy Mountain.

Follow the trail from the trees until clear of a patch of gorse bushes. Here turn left to cross another stone wall and descend across once-fertile fields that have succumbed to the encroaching heather. A second

abandoned settlement, with a breathtaking location on the edge of a steep fall-off into the glen, has views across the Cloghoge River valley to neglected field systems rising high onto Knocknacloghoge Mountain. To the west the eye is drawn up the Inchavore basin to the crags on Carrigshouk, with the

Between Two Lakes

Robert Barton (1881-1975)In 1918 Robert Barton was elected as Sinn Fein MP for West Wicklow. After being arrested in 1919 for making rebellious speeches against the Crown, he was imprisoned in Mountjoy Jail. With the aid of Michael Collins he escaped, leaving a note to the governor explaining that owing to the discomfort of his cell, the occupant felt compelled to leave and requested the governor to keep his luggage until he sent for it!

In 1921 Barton was a reluctant signatory of the Anglo-Irish Treaty, describing the decision to sign as the lesser of two outrages forced upon me and between which I had to choose!

20

Walking towards Cloghoge Valley with views of luggala

View down to Cloghoge Valley

long ridge of Barncullian beyond leading to Mullaghcleevaun Mountain.

When I explored this village in the spring, there were clumps of daffodils growing outside a cottage doorway; a poignant reminder of the families that once lived here. If the day is fair, the village is an excellent lunch stop as the

cottage walls provide shelter from the prevailing winds.

Leave the village on a pleasant green road heading eastwards and uphill until the track turns marshy and disappears into the heather; carry on climbing alongside a gully overgrown with gorse bushes.

Cross a track to the other side of the gully, continuing uphill following deep ruts that lead to a track by a large boulder. With the forest on the left the track leads to a gate, beyond this fork right into a plantation of pine trees along a pleasant track by an old boundary ditch to emerge from the trees for views south across the Vartry Reservoir to Wicklow Head and the Irish Sea beyond.

Directly below in the townland of Mullinaveige, Joseph Holt lived and farmed with his wife and

family, until in 1798 a local squireen and a troop of yeomanry burnt down his home as a suspected member of the rebel United Irishmen.

From May 1798, Joe Holt was active in Wexford during the Great Rebellion of 98. The now General Holt led the Wicklow United Irishmen in guerrilla warfare against the forces of the Crown here in the mountains.

After his surrender, he and his family were transported to Botany Bay in Australia, where he farmed until in 1809 he received a free pardon. Then in 1812, with an achievement that epitomises the sheer tenacity of Joseph Holt, he and his family made the long sea voyage back home to Ireland. He opened a public house in the Liberties in Dublin and later retired to Kingstown (now Dun Laoghaire). He died aged 70 on 16th May 1826 after an eventful life and is buried in the old Carrickbrennan graveyard near Dun Laoghaire.

Turning left, once again follow the Wicklow Way markers heading north along the forest track, for the return journey to the cars.

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21

FACT FILEtWo MoUNtaIN laKES FIlE

Distance: 10kmAscent: 230mTime: 3-3.30 hoursMaps: EastWest Mapping Wicklow Mountains WestHarveys Wicklow Mountains

Wicklow Way marker post on the slopes of Ballinafunshoge Hill

Maumtrasna is the highest point in Mayos Partry Mountains - a great, hulking massif that impresses more

with its girth than its height. In fact its 682m-high summit is lost amid a plateau that features more than 8 sq km of terrain above the 600m contour. Though remarkable as a landform, it is not generally the plateau itself that appeals to most walkers. The mountains most exciting terrain can be found along its numerous spurs, which radiate out from the central massif like spiders legs reaching around a bulbous abdomen. Between them these spurs enclose at least ten separate corries, the most dramatic of which are explored on this walk.

Like most mountains in the region, Maumtrasna owes its current topography to a series of events that began around two million years ago. This is when the European climate began to deteriorate, entering the Pleistocene period, popularly known as the Ice Age. The climate began to alternate between severe cold snaps interspersed with warmer spells. During the cold stages the entire massif was covered by ice, but as each rise in temperature melted the main ice sheet, active glaciers persisted

longest on the colder northern and

eastern slopes. This explains why, in common with many other Irish mountains, Maumtrasnas deepest, most

spectacular glacial corries can now be found facing north and east.

This route circumnavigates two of Maumtrasnas most dramatic eastern corries: the deeply-carved basins that now contain Lough Nadirkmore and Dirkbeg Lough. Each corrie is bound by sharp ridges, which provide convenient access routes to and from the high ground. The tips of these ridges are steep however, and while not dangerous, the angle of slope means that the route is restricted to only those walkers who are confident on steep ground. Note also that much of the walk follows the edge of precipitous cliffs, so the route is best avoided in poor visibility.

The circuit concentrates on Maumtrasnas corries and ridges, and does not visit the 682m-high summit of Maumtrasna itself. This summit rises only a metre or two above many surrounding hummocks, and is notoriously difficult to find. However determined summit-baggers can make an optional side-trip to find it from the top of the Binnaw ridge. It is located just over a kilometre southwest of Maumtrasnas 673m-high trig point.

Getting to the StartThe route starts and finishes along a narrow lane around 2km east of Lough Nadirkmore (GR: M 022,647). The area is generally accessed via the N84 Castlebar-Galway road. Turn west off this road at Partry, at the northeastern end of Lough Mask. Follow a minor road around the northwestern side of the lough, passing through Toormakeady (Tuar Mhic adaigh). Around 5km south of Toormakeady, turn right towards Killateenaun. Roughly 700m past Killateenaun school, turn right again, then keep left at a junction and follow a lane along the Owenbrin River. Keep left again at a final junction and continue until you reach a metal gate across the lane (the purpose of this gate is to stop sheep wandering rather than to bar access). There is adequate space to park around five vehicles without obstructing the road.

The WalkPass through the gate and walk northwest along the lane for roughly 100m. Here the road crosses a stream. Turn left off the tarmac and begin to follow the northern bank of the stream, crossing open, hummocky ground. Within long you come to a confluence where the stream separates in two, with each branch heading to a

Maumtrasnas Eastern Corries


Walker passing lough Nambrackkeagh at the base of Binnaw.

Helen Fairbairn recommends a trip around two glacial corries in a remote corner of south County Mayo. Photos by Gareth McCormack

22

different lough in the corrie above.Continue along the bank of the southern-most

watercourse. When the fence falls away on the left, veer south and begin heading directly towards the base of Binnaw. Youll need to cross a gravel track before beginning the ascent in earnest. The easiest angle is up the ridges northeastern tip, though even here the climb is steep and sustained.

As you gain height the views improve over Lough Nambrackkeagh and Lough Nadirkmore, encased within the steep cliffs of the corrie to your right. Scattered rocks also become increasingly frequent amid the grass as you near the top of the ridge. Once youve gained the shoulders highpoint, turn right and begin to trace the lip of the corrie west. A mixture of cropped grass and rocks cover the hummocky ground, while occasional gullies allow thrilling views into the basin far below.

A small cairn marks the point where the ridge merges into the main Maumtrasna plateau. Here, for the first time, there are views of the surrounding ranges: the clustered summits of the Maumturk Mountains can be seen to the southwest, while Croagh Patrick and Nephin lie on the northern skyline.

If you want to make the 4km detour to Maumtrasnas trig point, head northwest from

Con

nach

t

Numerous spurs radiate out from the central massif like spiders legs reaching around a bulbous abdomen.

Cairn at the top of Buckaun, overlooking lough Mask.

Walker looking over lough Nadirkmore from the Binnaw ridge.

23


the cairn, using the rim of the Srahnalong corrie to aid navigation. To continue directly along this circuit, arc northwards at the cairn and trace the back of the Nadirkmore corrie towards Buckaun. The ground here is softer underfoot, with scattered bog pools and marshy patches amongst the peaty terrain.

A short climb brings you to the large cairn that marks the ridge of Buckaun. The most arresting view from here is the aerial panorama over Lough Mask to the east. Care is needed in this area however, because just a few metres north of the cairn the precipitous cliffs of the Dirkbeg corrie drop away suddenly.

The route around this second corrie largely mimics the first; an anticlockwise trip around the lip of the basin. This section necessitates a deeper descent around the western rim however, and the terrain is craggy rather than peaty underfoot. Make your way down between rocky outcrops to the back of the corrie, then climb onto the Dirkbeg ridge that forms its northern wall.

Follow the Dirkbeg ridge eastward to its tip, then descend slightly south of east, heading towards a turf-cutting area at the eastern end of Dirkbeg Lough. The descent is steep throughout take particular care in wet conditions when the grass may be slippery underfoot. Also note that steep crags bound the northern tip of the ridge, so be sure to avoid veering onto this side of the shoulder.

At the base of the slope, cross flat, peaty ground to reach the area of turbary. Here youll find two branches of a gravel track; they join up within long so either one can be followed initially. The gravel merges into tarmac after 1.5km, and a paved lane continues ahead. Follow the lane for a further kilometre to return to the metal gate where you started the circuit.

Walker looking over Dirkbeg lough from the back of the corrie

FACT FILEMaUMtraSNa

Distance: 11.5km/7milesAscent: 600m / 1970ftTime: 5-5 hoursMaps: OSi Sheet 38 1:50000

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MONT BLANCStunning tour of Europes No.1 long-distance walk Beg South. On the OS map it is unnamed,

and the name Aghla Beg is given to a slightly lower summit to the north. Aghla More is itself 19m lower than Aghla Beg South. One explanation offered for the apparent mislabelling of summits using beag and mr is that those applying the original names were more interested in acreage than in height.

Getting to the StartMost people will be approaching the Aghlas from Letterkenny. Take the N56, signposted for Kilmacrennan, Dunfanaghy

and Glenveagh National Park. Three kilometres north of Kilmacrennan take a left turn onto the R251, signposted for the national park. Follow this road for about twenty kilometres until you see the cones of Aghla Beg South and Aghla More rising above a forestry plantation on the right. Go slow as you sweep down onto a long stretch of straight road with Sand Lough down on the left. Look out for a track entrance on the right where there is parking for two cars (GR: B 953 205). The route starts and finishes here. If there is no room to park, drive on for 800m to the formal car park at the foot of Errigal, and return to the track on foot.

The WalkSet off along the track, which heads straight across the bog towards the eastern shoulder of Mackoght. Follow it around a large hairpin and then up to a shallow col. Soon the track begins to descend steeply along the west side of a small valley, and

then swings north, crossing a stream and descending through a series of switchbacks towards Altan Farm and the eastern shore of Altan Lough. It is tempting to shortcut the hairpins, however the ground is so rough that you probably save energy by sticking to the track.

There is a small river crossing at Altan Farm that can be tricky after heavy rain, so gaiters and walking poles are recommended.

The track peters out on the southern bank of a small river that feeds in to Altan Lough. Altan Farm is on the opposite bank with the imposing southern flanks of Aghla More rising steeply behind. There are some good stepping stones in place,

The Aghlas are a trio of graceful conical summits situated just northeast of Errigal in County Donegal. Their proximity

to such a justifiably popular mountain means that they are often ignored and seldom visited by walkers. However they are certainly worth the considerable effort required to make the round of all three tops from Altan Farm. Its a route full of character and variety, and despite the modest height of the peaks themselves, still packs in over 900m of

vertical ascent and descent. This approach from the south is the

hardest route on the Aghlas, but with the shorter northern approach from Procklis currently complicated by poor access, the Altan route is now preferable. Although there is a defined track all the way to Altan Farm, it can be very wet in places. There is also a small river crossing at Altan Farm that can be tricky after heavy rain, so gaiters and walking poles are recommended.

Ive taken the liberty of renaming the highest summit in the Aghlas as Aghla

Ulster

The Aghlas

Gareth McCormack samples a challenging outing across three often-overlooked Donegal summits.Photos by

Gareth McCormackAltan Farm, with Aghla More behind

View across Altan Lough, with Altan Farm on the far left

The Aghlas

2322

shoulder of Mackoght. Follow it around a Lough. Altan Farm is on the opposite bank

Gareth McCormack

challenging outing

often-overlooked Donegal

Gareth McCormack

View across Altan Lough, with Altan Farm on the far left

MSR Asgard ?580 / 440That clunk you just heard was your jaw hitting off the coffee table when you saw the Asgards price. But hold on, before Angry from Crossmolina sends something suitably vitriolic to the editor enquiring as

to my mental state, this is not a run-of-the mill back packers portable shelter. The Asgard is a 2

man expedition tent suitable for the worst conditions a remote location can throw at you.

When I say 2 man, in truth its spacious enough for 3, making the cost a bit more justifiable and allowing plenty of space for tons of gear, games of full-contact snap and delaying the onset of

cabin fever. With a supported porch and doors at each end, there are acres of elbow room and the steep sides mean that its not just in the centre of the tent either. All this has a downside of

course price obviously, but weight also increases to a sizeable 3.36kg. Pitching is reasonably easy (it would be simpler if the shorter middle pole was colour coded), just fit the poles into the continuous, closed-ended sleeves and then fit the Asgards secret weapon the Bow frame, a pole which runs around the upper part of the tent supporting the porches and making the tent much more rigid. The rest is easy enough to make 1 person pitching possible with a bit of practice, when erect you can sit a 45 pound rucksack on top according to one review I read and yes; Ive tried it and its true! Once inside theres ample storage and the groundsheet feels almost bullet-proof with a Hydrostatic head of 10000mm. This negates the need to carry a separate footprint or groundsheet protector again to help justify the cost and weight. One of the things that really grabbed me were the groundhog stakes supplied, ideal for anchoring the Asgard in any soil conditions. Did I like the Asgard? Its fairly obvious that Im more than impressed, I wouldnt be recommending it for a quick 1 night camping trip but for serious stuff or as a fixed base option its up there with the best. Might have to make MSR an offer on this one methinks..

Wild Country Aspect 2 ?180 / 150.00A 2 person Tunnel tent weighing a respectable 2.2kg, the Aspect 2 pitches fly-first and has 2 side-facing doors. One door has no porch and is purely to allow access without having to climb across the other occupant. The main full length door can also be turned into an awning if you buy the separate poles. Out on the hills, I found the Aspect 2 a bit strange, there was plenty of space inside but it still felt cramped a bit like a tarids in reverse! Maybe Id been spoiled by some of the other tents on test, but I thought whoever ended up away from the

porch side was getting the rough end of the stick. The porch itself runs the length of the tent but is quite shallow so room for both of your sacks is at a premium. Ventilation is good through the wide roof vents and half mesh doors, unusually the inner is made if fabric rather than mesh so its quite warm inside. Given a 3-4 season backpacking rating by Wild Country, the flysheet has a Hydrostatic head of 3000mm while the groundsheet is 5000m. I see it more aimed at the cycle touring market than as a mountain tent, there are only 2 guylines fitted so its not meant for exposed sites. Outer-first pitching allows you to get your gear out of the weather while you clip up the inner, the use of fastex

buckles or clips at the corners of the inner would have made this easier. My

major gripe was the number and type of pegs given 10 are needed but

only 7 supplied and while the spec says theyre alloy v-channels mine were all skewers. Despite that the Aspect 2 is well made and decent value at this price, just remember to bring extra pegs.

GoLite Eden 2

MSR Hubba Hubba HP ?465 / 335The middle variant of the Hubba high performance series the Hubba Hubba Hp weighs a measly 1930g packaged, but still provides enough headroom for its 2 occupants to sit up inside. Again the inner is almost all mesh so it can be used as a freestanding insect proof shelter should conditions permit. Pitching is straightforward, stake out the inner, secure the spider-like poles in their grommets, clip the inner to the poles and then drape the fly over the top. Simply peg out the rest of the outer and youre done. Sounds good so far and in fairness the Hubba 2 is light and spacious but it does have a few problems. Firstly ditch the Titanium nail pegs provided, too hard on the hands and theyll pull through soft ground. Its also quite hard to get the guylines to stay on the pegs and theyre easy to miss when youre breaking camp. The other issue is also a weight-saving one in that the flysheet only has a Hydrostatic head of 1000m, less than the other tents tested, even if it is silicone coated its likely not to last as long. Lastly the flysheet doesnt come as close to the ground as others tested, not great it youre in one

of those storms where the rain is almost horizontal. This an ideal tent if travelling light is your major worry, but I have a few concerns regarding just how 3-season ready it is in Irish conditions, plus all those weight saving features are expensive.

MSR Carbon Reflex 2 ?480 / 350Similar to the Hubba in its floor plan etc, but with some more weight saving changes, the Carbon Reflex 2 shaves its packaged weight to 1490g. The main differences are its Carbon Fibre poles and only having 1 door, meaning a 3am crawl-over if youre furthest from the door! My other comments re the Hubba Hubba still stand and its hard to justify the extra expense when youre sharing the weight between 2. Makes you wonder how light tents could possibly get in the not too distant future though..

Gear

43

other occupant. The main full length door can also be turned into an awning if you buy the separate poles. Out on the hills, I found the Aspect 2 a bit strange, there was plenty of space inside but it still felt cramped a bit like a tarids in reverse! Maybe Id been spoiled by some of the other tents on test, but I thought whoever ended up away from the

Wild Country, the flysheet has a Hydrostatic head of 3000mm while the groundsheet is 5000m. I see it more aimed at the cycle touring market than as a mountain tent, there are only 2 guylines fitted so its not meant for exposed sites. Outer-first pitching allows you to get your gear out of the weather while you clip up the inner, the use of fastex

buckles or clips at the corners of the inner would have made this easier. My

major gripe was the number and type of pegs given 10 are needed but

only 7 supplied and while the spec says theyre alloy v-channels mine were all skewers. Despite that the Aspect 2 is well made and decent value at this price, just remember to bring extra pegs.

when youre breaking camp. The other issue is also a weight-saving one in that the flysheet only has a Hydrostatic head of 1000m, less than the other tents tested, even if it is silicone coated its likely not to last as long. Lastly the flysheet doesnt come as close to the ground as others tested, not great it youre in one

of those storms where the rain is almost horizontal. This an ideal tent if travelling light is your major worry, but I have a few concerns regarding just how 3-season ready it is in Irish conditions, plus all those weight saving features are expensive.

MSR Carbon Reflex 2 ?480 / 350Similar to the Hubba in its floor plan etc, but with some more weight saving changes, the Carbon Reflex 2 shaves its packaged weight to 1490g. The main differences are its Carbon Fibre poles and only having 1 door, meaning a 3am crawl-over if youre furthest from the door! My other comments re the Hubba Hubba still stand and its hard to justify the extra expense when youre sharing the weight between 2. Makes you wonder how light tents could possibly get in the not too distant future though..though..

Gear

43

Tour of Mont Blanc

Tour of

Helen Fairbairn visited three countries and tackled numerous alpine passes to complete the most popular long-distance

walk in Europe. Photos by Gareth McCormack

Mont Blanc

Walker and the Chamonix Aiguilles reflected in Lac des Cheserys

3332

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Walking World Ireland is Irelands No.1 outdoor activity magazine. Published bi-monthly, Walking World Ireland is packed with a range of articles covering a huge variety of walking routes to suit all tastes and levels of fi tness at home and abroad, Wildlife, gear reviews, opinion pieces and much more add up to the most complete coverage of Irelands favourite leisure activity. Contributors include many of Irelands top writers and photographers, including Dick Warner, Damien Enright, Michael Fewer, Gareth McCormack and many more.

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The Causeway Coast of County Antrim is home to some of the finest sections of coastal walking in Ireland. Most of this walking has been linked together to form the 33-mile long Causeway Coast Way,

and perhaps the most celebrated stretch of this walk is the magnificent cliff path between the Giants Causeway and the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. Beyond these famous landmarks, the next runner up would probably be the Port Path, which runs between the twin seaside resorts of Portstewart and Portrush.

This is a much more urbanised walk than its cousin further along the coast. The route spends much of its time in or close to built up areas. However this should not be seen in a negative light, and is offset by the relatively isolated two kilometre beach walk along Curran Strand. Besides, the two Ports, although not to everyones taste in their outward appearance, have great character and plenty of historical interest.

Along the Port Path

Dunluce Castle from Whiterocks Beach.

Portstewart harbour and promenade

Gareth McCormack explores a scenic coastal path linking Portstewart and Portrush on the Causeway Coast. Photos by Gareth McCormack

Along the Port Path

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Getting to the StartThe walk starts at the eastern end of Portstewart Strand (GR: C 812,367), which is now managed by the National Trust. The only parking at the beach itself is on the sand, and between March and October a hefty parking charge applies. At other times it is free, but it is best not to leave your car unattended on the beach unless you are very sure of the prevailing tidal conditions, you could return to find your car has become a hazard to shipping. Instead you should aim to use a public parking area approximately one kilometre towards Portstewart promenade along Strand Road. From here you can either drop straight down a flight of steps and onto the Port Path, or you can walk back to Portstewart Strand and pick it up from the very start.

The official Port Path route finishes at East Strand in Portrush, but our description

extends the route all the way to Dunluce Castle (GR: C 905,413). There is a small car park here, but it is probably better to use either of the two much larger public parking areas, one of which is just a few hundred metres back to the west along the A2 (GR: C 901,412) and the other at Whiterocks Beach (GR: C 884,407).

Ulsterbus service 177 stops on the promenade at Portstewart near the start of the walk, and also at Dunluce Castle. With several services every day, year round, there is no need to organise cars at both ends of the walk. Check the translink website (www.translink.co.uk) for timetable information.

The WalkA set of concrete steps at the east end of Portstewart Strand marks the start of the Port Path. Climb these and follow a wide pavement around the shoreline towards the crenellated outline of Rock Castle, set imposingly on the cliff edge about a kilometre to the north. The castle was built in 1834 by Henry OHara and was home to the OHara and Montagu families until it was sold to the Dominican Order in 1917. It is now the co-educational Dominican College.

There appears to be little room for the Port path to navigate the castle on its seaward side, but thats exactly what it does, climbing onto a balcony built into the cliff and adjoining wall, and guarded only by a metal handrail. In windy conditions and high seas it is a thrilling few hundred metres of walking until a flight of steps leads down onto the more civilised environs of Portstewart Promenade.

Continue north along the promenade and past the picturesque little harbour. Just past the harbour, as the road bends to the east, look out for Causeway Coast Way and Ulster Way signs directing you up a flight of steps between two houses. The steps take you up onto a cliff-ringed headland from where there is a fine view back south across Portstewart. Landmarks to the east include Eagle Hill, the conspicuous outline of the Mussenden Temple, and in the far distance the hills of Inishowen.

Follow tarmac around Portstewart Point, from where the northern end of Portrush can just be made out in the far distance. The route continues along a promenade and past some new apartments. You then walk alongside the A2 Portrush-Portstewart road for a short distance as you begin to make your way out of Portstewart. At a golf course look out for wooden marker posts on the left. These lead along the low-lying coast, fringing the greens and fairways. There are often different paths to choose from, but in the absence of marker posts just keep as close to the shore as possible.

As you near Rinagree Point, the path climbs steeply to a headland with good views along the coast in both directions. There is a

public parking area here and an interpretive board for the walk. The coastline now becomes cliff-bound and the path follows close to the edge, occasionally descending into a cove before climbing back up onto the clifftop again. The site of Ballyreagh Castle is marked prominently on the OS map and is also afforded an interpretive panel, but there is little to see on the promontory on which it once stood, except for the suggestion of some

Ulster

on the Port Path near rinagree Point

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grassy foundations.Just past the site of Ballyreagh Castle the

path joins a wide footpath along the A2. Follow this for a few hundred metres until you crest the brow of a hill and are greeted by a sudden view across West Strand to Portrush. A wide footpath leads away from the road and directly across grassy slopes to a promenade that runs the length of the beach

and into the heart of the town.Continue past Portrush harbour and onto

a path running around Ramore Head. You now have a view along the remainder of the route, with the crumbling remains of Dunluce Castle visible on the clifftop about four kilometres to the east. Follow the path around to Curran Strand, or East Strand as it is known locally. Set out onto the beach,

following the sand for more than two kilometres to the parking area at Whiterocks, which derives its name from the beautiful white limestone cliffs above the beach. On a low tide it is possible to walk further east along the beach under these cliffs, but to reach Dunluce you need to head up the access road for Whiterocks Beach and follow a footpath along the A2. Although the next two kilometres involves walking alongside a busy road, fantastic coastal views compensate for the terrain.

Dunluce Castle provides a fitting end to such a varied route. Owned and maintained by the National Trust, this is one of Irelands most spectacular medieval castles, perched on a crumbling basalt outcrop above the pounding surf. There has been a castle here since the 13th century, and it was the seat of power for the MacDonnell clan who dominated this part of Ulster during the 16th and 17th centuries. Its well worth setting aside some time at the end of your walk to take a look around the castle.

Along the Port Path

View west from Portstewart Point towards Eagle Hill and Inishowen

FACT FILEPort PatH FIlE

Distance: 15km/9 milesAscent: 150m/429ftTime: 3 4 hoursMaps: OSNI 1:50.000 sheet 4

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For thousands of Irish walkers, charity trekking is an enjoyable, rewarding and companionable way to see the world on foot. But where does the money go? Concerns Zoe Holyoake explains how the Irish charitys Kilimanjaro Challenge makes everyone a winner.

Mt Kilimanjaro, Africas highest mountain, is a magnet for trekkers and climbers the world over. This 10 day challenging trek takes place between the 23rd June and the 2nd July and takes us along the beautiful Machame route that approaches Kilimanjaro from the south, through dense tropical rainforest all the way up to the mighty snow capped summit at 5896m for simply breathtaking views. This is a tough but spectacularly rewarding route. On reaching the summit you will feel a sense of overwhelming achievement, a truly unforgettable challenge.

Concern operates in 28 of the worlds poorest countries, helping people to achieve major and long-lasting improvements in their lives. Your fundraising will support our Tanzania office and despite economic growth of approximately 7% in the early part of last year, Tanzania remains one of the worlds forty poorest countries. More than one-third of the population lives below the poverty line. We have continued to focus our efforts on: improving incomes and access to food; water and environmental health; HIV and AIDS and good governance.

This challenge is achievable to all ages and fitness levels and with the support of Concern staff you can raise the fundraising target. By taking

part in our training days you will not only improve your fitness levels

but also it will also help you to get to know your fellow trekkers.We could not continue without your support

and by taking part in the Climb Mt Kilimanjaro challenge you will be making a real and direct impact on communities affected by poverty and hunger

Your concern lets us go that extra mile. Take part in our Climb Mt Kilimanjaro Challenge 2011 and support those living in absolute poverty.

Charity Trekking

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To find out how to sign up to this amazing event just speak to Zo 01 4178028 or visit www.concernchallenge.org

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Coomloughra Horseshoe

Coomloughra Horseshoe

Some walks are so good that you find yourself wanting to complete them time and time again. For Tom Hutton, its the magnificent Coomloughra Horseshoe

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Easy scrambling up to the summit of Skregmore adds to the fun. Photo: Tom Hutton

In these days of essential this, and best-ever that, the word classic has become a worn-out clich. But there are still places that it does apply, and when it comes to Irish hill-walking,

no-one can deny that the Coomloughra Horseshoe is one of them. This is a mountain walk to end all mountain walks. In just 12 wonderful kilometres it clambers from less than 200m above sea level to cross the three tallest and most impressive summits in the land. Along the way it offers everything from easy cruising along airy whaleback ridges, through daring yet easy scrambling along knife-edge artes to steep and gruelling climbs on rough rocky paths. And the whole act is played out among some of the most impressive scenery most of us will ever see.

Its a long way up onto Beenkeragh, but the panorama is breathtaking the whole way, and the anticipation builds and builds the closer you get to the top, with the path eventually relenting to easy scrambling that leads straight on to the tiny summit. The views that greet you here have few equals, with Carauntoohil just a stones throw away, and the towering cliffs of Caher just a short distance beyond that. The walking that links the three peaks is as good as any on these shores, perhaps anywhere. The infamous Beenkeragh to Carrauntoohil ridge is like a low-slung bridge spanning a huge chasm, and although its narrow in places and exposed in others, the going is never too difficult. And then a steep and rather relentless pull gains the summit cross the highest point in all Ireland -

and a good excuse for a rest. From here, its down for a few minutes before a high-level walkway guides you around the head of the glen, offering easy walking and incredible views in every direction. Cahers three summits dont disappoint either, even amongst such illustrious company. But the thought of descent might - this is the kind of walk that you wish would never end.

Getting to the startFrom Killarney, follow the Gap of Dunloe Road to Beaufort, and then continue west, beneath the foot of the Reeks towards Lough Acoose. Keep ahead at the junction with the Killorglin Road, and continue for another 3km to a large car park, in old quarry on the left (V763863). From Killorglin, head south to join the Beaufort to Glencar road and bear right to reach the same point.

The WalkTurn right onto the road and follow it north for a few minutes to a gate on the right. Cross this to gain a well-surfaced track, known as the Hydro Road, which you now follow left and then right to climb mercilessly upwards towards the shores of Lough Eighter. This is probably the hardest part of the whole day as the gradient is cruel and surface hard and unforgiving. The rewards at the top are worth it though and from the lough you get your first view of the magnificent glen and of course the ridges above that the route follows.

Catch your breath and then turn left to cross the outflow, where you need to bear left again to follow a faint path almost back on yourself through the heather. This leads around the hillside and out onto the blunt west ridge of Skregmore, where a few different paths weave a winding line up towards the foot of the rocky spine. The main path continues left of the rocky fins, but theres more interest on the crest if youre feeling adventurous. The gradient eventually eases and its just a short walk to the 747m top. The hardest work is behind you now so continue along the broad crest of the ridge, dropping into a shallow col and then climbing again to the mountains true summit, which is marked with a cairn.

In just 12 wonderful kilometres it clambers from less than 200m above sea level to cross the three tallest and most impressive summits in the land.

Continue along the ridge top now, dropping and climbing a few more times before you reach the foot of the final steep ascent of Beenkeragh.

Easy scrambling and a clear path lead to a small cairn perched precariously on the tiny summit. The views across to Carrauntoohil are absolutely magnificent from here, as they are across the head of the glen to Caher. The ridges

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Lough Eighter gives a magnificent view of what's ahead Photo: Kris O'Brien

also look very inviting so leave the summit to the south west, making sure you follow well-worn rock, and youll soon locate a steep path that weaves its way down to the crest of the arte, now with Carrauntoohil towering directly overhead.

Follow the ridge south, hugging the crest as much as possible, but taking well-worn diversions on the more awkward sections, and eventually, after a particularly exposed section, youll find yourself at the foot of the steep, rocky path that climbs above Collins Gulley to the summit cross. Theres plenty of shelter on the highest point in the land if you need it.

Care is needed to get off Carrauntoohil, especially in poor visibility. The easiest way is to follow the clearly cairned Hags Glen path for around 100m or so, and then, as this levels off for a short section, and bears around to the left, you need to keep straight ahead (south-west), onto a less well-defined path that leads out to the escarpment edge, high above the Coomloughra Glen, which will now be down to your right.

Now follow the cliff tops along - fabulous skyline walking and ahead you get a close up of the imposing crags of Caher. After crossing the broad, shallow col, a short, sharp climb leads onto the first of the three summits, where

another shallow notch then separates you from the true top. The views from here

wwi issue 98

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