yarn classification
DESCRIPTION
Yarn ClassificationTRANSCRIPT
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FASH 15 textiles
yarn classification
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yarns
contribute significantly to fabric and product performance
selection affects the fabrics hand, appearance, drape, durability, comfort & many other areas of performance
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fiber length
spun yarncomposed of short-staple fibers that are twisted or otherwise bonded together; fuzzy yarn with protruding ends
filament yarncomposed of long fibers grouped together or slightly twistedsmooth filament yarnsstraight, almost parallel fiberstextured-bulk-filament yarnsuniformly bulky
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yarn twist
twistspiral arrangement of fibers around yarns axisproduced by rotating one end while holding the other stationarybinds fibers together & contributes to strengthSpecified by number of turns per unit lengthturns per inch (tpi) or turns per meter (tpm)
direction
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yarn twist
amount of twistlow twistused to maintain integrity within smooth, multi-filament yarns; 1-2 turns per inchnapping twistlofty spun yarns used in filling yarns of napped fabricsaverage twistmost common for staple fiber yarns; most durable spun yarnshard twistharsher hand & more turns per inchcrepe yarnshighest tpi; 40-80; twist & kink when removed from fabric
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yarn size
yarn numbersize or finenessfilament yarnsweight per unit lengthspun yarnslength per unit weight; generally the finer the yarn, the larger the number
denier systemdescribes yarn size using filament fibersweight in grams per 9,000 meters
tex systemdetermines yarn number in the same way for all yarnsweight in grams per 1,000 meters
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yarn regularity
describes the uniformity of the yarn throughout its length in terms of appearance & structure
simple yarnsalike in all its partsspun or filament yarn
single yarnone strandsimplest type
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yarn regularitysimple yarns
ply yarnmade by second twisting operation that combines two or more singles
cordmade by third twisting operation which twists ply yarns together
ropeheavy thick cord as least 2.5 cm or 1 inch or more in diameter that is twisted or braided together
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yarn regularitysewing & embroidery thread
sewing threadyarn intended for stitching materials togetheravailable in broad range of sizes & structuresoften finished with lubricant or waxmost sewing thread is S twist
embroidery threadyarn intended for stitching designs or patterns on textile surfacemost often 2-ply, Z twist
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yarn regularityfancy yarns
yarns that deliberately have unlike parts and are irregular at intervalsirregularities may be subtle or very obviousintervals may be regular or randomclassified according to number of partsnamed for effect that dominates fabric
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yarn regularityfancy yarns
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yarn regularityfancy yarns
tweed yarnslub yarnspiral or corkscrewratine yarnsknot, spot, nub, or knopspike or snarlloop, curl or boucle yarnmetallicchenillebraidedknitstitched
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yarn regularitycomposite yarns
have both staple-fiber & filament fiber components
include:covered yarnscentral yarn completely covered by fiber or another yarncore-spun yarnsspun sheath of staple fibers around a corefilament wrapped yarns (wrap-spun)have staple fiber core, wrapped or bound by filament fibersmulti-polymer yarnsproduced by pressing staple fibers of any length or generic class in molten polymer streamfasciated yarnsgrouping of filament fibers wrapped with staple fibers
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yarn performance & yarn quality
identified and measured so that appropriate yarn is used in fabric & product
standard test methods determine:yarn sizetwistbulkevennessappearanceperformance
yarn quality refers to various factors such as strength and uniformitymore parallel fibers, tighter twist, more regular
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participation activityfancy yarns identification
using pgs 244-245 in the text, define the following types of fancy yarns:tweed yarnslub yarnspiral or corkscrewratine yarnsknot, spot, nub, or knopspike or snarl
select 7 different fancy yarns from yarn grab bagmount them to your yarn identification sheetidentify them using the text and complete the information requiredloop, curl or boucle yarnmetallicchenillebraidedknitstitched