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TIGER CAT E1 HOME BUILD MANUAL

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Contacts

Tiger Racing provides a full telephone back up service to this build manual, if you are having any

problems or need advice regarding the building of your Cat E1 please do not hesitate to contact us at:

TIGER RACING LTD

ECCO NEW TOLL SERVICE STATION

THORNEY TOLL

Nr. WISBECH

CAMBRIDGESHIRE

PE13 4AX

TELEPHONE: 01733 849328 (works – mot)

01733 271131 parts –eng.

www.tigerracing.com

Or at our London branch:

UNITS 11&12

THE OLD TRAMYARD

LAKEDALE ROAD

PLUMSTEAD

LONDON

SE18 1PP

TELEPHONE: 020 8 317 8355

http://www.tigerracing.com/


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Contents

1.0 Build requirements

1.1 Kit parts listing

1.2 Donor parts

1.3 Kit contents

2.0 Fitting of alloy panels

Alloy panel-fixing plan

Alloy panel shape identifier

3.0 Brake lines

4.0 Fuel line

5.0 Wiring

5.1 Loom

5.2 Wiper and indicator stalks

5.3 Dashboard and dials

6.0 Pedals

7.0 Rear of car suspension and brakes

7.1 Suspension

7.2 Rear springs

7.3 Rear shock absorbers

7.4 Rear brakes

7.5 Handbrake

8.0 Fuel tank

9.0 Rear GRP body panel and wings


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Contents - continued

10.0 GRP Dash panel and fascia

10.1 Fuse box and Relay block

10.2 Dash fascia

10.3 GRP Dash panel.

10.4 Wiper motor, arms and blades

10.5 Windscreen

10.6 Washer bottle

10.7 Vehicle identification plate

11.0 Front end running gear

11.1 Steering Rack

11.2 Front suspension

11.3 Rocker arms

11.4 Track control arms

11.5 Hub assembly

11.6 Top ball joint

11.7 Front shock absorber

11.8 Tracking front wheels

11.9 Steering column



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12.0 Engine and gear box

12.1 Clutch cable

12.2 Gearbox oil

12.3 Gear stick - standard

12.4 Gear stick - remote

12.5 Engine wiring

12.6 Battery

12.7 Expansion tank and radiator

12.8 Heater/demister

12.9 Radiator fan

12.10 Exhaust

13.0 Cockpit finishing

13.1 Inner finishers

13.2 Carpets

13.3 Seats

13.4 Seat belts

13.5 Side screens

13.6 Weather equipment

13.7 Stone guards

14.0 Bonnet and nose cone

14.1 Grille


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15.0 Lights

15.1 Rear lights

15.2 Rear fog lamp

15.3 Rear numberplate light

15.4 Rear reflectors

15.5 Front indicators and repeaters

15.6 Head lights


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1.0 Build requirements

Before starting your kit car build; make sure that you have a clear working area, and plenty of

space. Take one task at a time. Do not take short cuts and complete and finish off as you

proceed. If you leave things to do later you will run into problems, sometimes having to

dismantle what has already been done.

Make a small radius gauge out of alloy, drill a 5mm hole and cut the alloy centrally through the

hole, lightly file, this will leave you with a useful tool for testing edges for SVA.

Use a tennis ball or similar 100mm-diameter ball for testing for protrusion regulations for SVA.

Simply, if the ball can come into contact with the protrusion then it must be radiused to 2.5mm.

To achieve good GRP finishing use 600 grade wet and dry paper around the edges to achieve

a 2.5mm radius. Compound the edges after to obtain a polished finish, finally either use a

finishing compound polish or ―T‖ cut.

Read this entire build manual before starting the project. We would also recommend that you

make yourself fully aware of the current SVA rules and regulations, the full document can be

purchased from the test centres, or there are many publications through the Kit car media that

are up to date and detailed enough for your Tiger build. Many Cats have already passed the

SVA test, and if you follow our advice and instructions you should not have any problems in

getting a pass.

Be careful when jacking the Cat, the central chassis members will support the car without the

engine fitted, however when you are nearing completion you must jack under the lower

suspension arms. Always support a jacked up vehicle with axle stands.

Make sure that you have or can obtain all the required tools to build the kit.


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1.0 Build requirements – continued

All protruding bolts and nuts must have any unnecessary thread sawn off, and be covered with

plastic radiused covers, as supplied. This must be done throughout the build process, do not

leave it until the end.

As with all build manuals, you will need to interpret and adapt the building instructions into the

method that you wish to use, continual upgrading of the kits makes it impossible to address

every single little change, however we have tried to make the amateur build manual work for

you. Remember this is an interesting and challenging building project, not an assembly

exercise like a Meccano set, the final result will be a unique individual car built to your

requirements.

This manual has be designed to assist you with the kit build, it is your responsibility to

check dimensions and fittings carefully before drilling and cutting. The measurements

advised in this manual are to the best of our knowledge correct, but you should decide if

you wish to use the suggestions we have made, or modify to your own specification. The

author of this manual cannot be held responsible, in any way, for any wrongly positioned

holes, parts or build errors.

Remember, think and measure twice and drill or cut once.


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1.1 Kit parts listing

The Cat is a Ford Sierra based kit, although it is possible to fit other engines, you will still need

a Sierra as a donor for many of the parts. You can purchase all the donor parts already stripped

from a Sierra from Tiger if required.(also we can supply all donor parts reconditioned)

You can either purchase the whole kit at one time or buy the build packs as and when required,

also see the optional extra lists. Tiger will provide you with a compre hensive list of the kit parts

that you are due to receive, carefully check these kit parts on receipt, and advise Tiger if you

have any shortages. Unfortunately, at times during the year some parts become short stock

items, so you may have to occasionally wait for delivery.

1.2 Donor parts listing

Ford Sierra

Rear independent suspension, hubs and brakes.

Differential and drive shafts.

Master cylinder and balance compensatory/regulator valve.

Wheels (Alloys are available from Tiger).

Steering column-Stalks and lock

Engine./clutch And general accessories

Gearbox and gear lever.(5 speed)

Ignition system, coil and distributor.

Carburettor. (Twin 40 or 45 carburettors are available from Tiger).

Gearbox mounting plate.(use only centre rubber part)

Steering shaft(we modify)


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1.2 Donor parts listing – continued

Front suspension legs, discs and brakes.(we modify legs)

Windscreen washer bottle.

Remove fuses, but not fuse box.

Starter motor.

Mini

Wiper motor and wheel boxes

Cooling fan.(you can use and modify various other types)or purchase a new

tiger rad fan

Heater-we recommend using a heater unit from vw polo mk2 (slight

modification)

It is advisable to fit the following new parts to the kit when building, it is believed to be

false economy to reuse existing donor parts unless they are nearly new.

Alternator (see build manual for type to use).

Water pump.

Fuel pump.

Thermostat.

Cam belt.


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1.3 Kit Contents

KIT CODE DETAIL QUANTITY

BODYWORK NOSE 1

BODYWORK BONNET 1

BODYWORK DASH 1

BODYWORK REAR BODY 1

BODYWORK CLAM OR /CYCLE WINGS 2

BODYWORK INNER BODY FINISHERS 2

BODYWORK REAR LIGHT MOUNTINGS 2

BODYWORK ALLOY SIDE PANELS 2

BODYWORK DASH HEATER DUCTING 1

CHASSIS "SPACE FRAME 1"" (powder coat option) 1

CHASSIS FULL INTERIOR PRECUT ALLOY SET (you trim) 1

CHASSIS ALLOY RIVETS PACK OF 1

CHASSIS PLASTIC BUNG SET 1

CHASSIS REAR WING SUPPORTS 2

CHASSIS FRONT WING SUPPORTS 2

CHASSIS RADIATOR TOP BRACKET 1

CHASSIS ROLL BAR 1

Chassis Throttle pedal 1

SUSPENSION/STEERING ROCKER ARMS TOP 2

SUSPENSION/STEERING LOWER SUSPENSION ARMS 2

SUSPENSION/STEERING STEEL SUSPENSION BUSHES 4

SUSPENSION/STEERING NYLON SPACER SUSPENSION 4

SUSPENSION/STEERING SUSPENSION PIVOT SHAFT 2

SUSPENSION/STEERING NUTS 4

SUSPENSION/STEERING TRACK CONTROL ARM BUSH/RUBBER SET 1

SUSPENSION/STEERING SPAX ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS 2

SUSPENSION/STEERING STANDARD SHORTER REAR SHOCKS 2

SUSPENSION/STEERING "9"" REAR SPRINGS" 2

SUSPENSION/STEERING "8"" FRONT SPRINGS" 2

SUSPENSION/STEERING TOP BALL JOINT AND NUT 2

SUSPENSION/STEERING LOWER ARM BUSHES 2

SUSPENSION/STEERING STERRING RACK AND CLAMPS 1

SUSPENSION/STEERING TRACK ROD ENDS AND NUTS 2

SUSPENSION/STEERING STEERING SHAFT (MOD’ BY TIGER ) 1

Suspension Steering Rear spring locators 2


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BRAKES FLEXI BRAKE HOSES 4

BRAKES STEEL BRAKE PIPE ENDS MADE UP 1

BRAKES P CLIPS 1

BRAKES BRAKE LIGHT WARING DASHLAMP 1

BRAKES HAND BRAKE CABLE 1

BRAKES CABLE LOCKS 4

Brakes Balance bar(needs drilling) 1

BRAKES BRAKE PLUNGER 1

LIGHTS HEADLAMP BOWLS CHROME(complete) 2

LIGHTS INDICATOR LAMPS FRONT 2

LIGHTS INDICATOR REPEATERS 2

LIGHTS NUMBER PLATE LAMP 1

LIGHTS REAR LAMPS 2

LIGHTS REAR FOG LAMP 1

LIGHTS REFLECTORS 2

LIGHTS DASH SWITCHES 4

LIGHTS DASH SWITCH ALLOY BACKING 1

LIGHTS WARNING LAMPS FOR DASH 4

DIALS SPEEDO 1

DIALS FUEL GUAGE 1

DIALS FUEL SENDER 1

GLASS LAMINATED WINDSCREEN 1

GLASS WINDSCREEN FRAME (you polish) 1

GLASS WINDSCREEN SUPPORTS(you polish) 2

GLASS WINDSCREEN BOLTS 6

GLASS WINDSCREEN HOOD STUDS

INTERIOR "12"" MOUNTNY STEERING WHEEL" 1

INTERIOR MOUNTNY STEERING WHEEL BOSS 1

INTERIOR OFF SIDE MIRROR 1

INTERIOR SEAT BELTS STATIC 2

INTERIOR VINYL DASH MATERIAL 1

INTERIOR VINYL SIDE INTERIOR MATERIAL 2

INTERIOR CARPET SET 1

INTERIOR HAND BRAKE GAITOR 1


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INTERIOR GEAR STICK GAITOR 1

INTERIOR INTERIOR SIDE SHAPED PANELS 2

INTERIOR SEAT PAD SET 2

ENGINE PARTS STAINLESS EXHAUST SYSTEM 1

ENGINE PARTS RADIATOR 1

ENGINE PARTS ENGINE MOUNTS STEEL 2

ENGINE PARTS ENGINE MOUNTS RUBBER 2

ENGINE PARTS EXHAUST FIX KIT 1

ENGINE PARTS FAN BELT 1

ENGINE PARTS RADIATOR HOSE 1

ENGINE PARTS STEEL HOSE JOINER FOR RADIATOR HOSE 1

ENGINE PARTS THERMOSWITCH FOR RADIATOR 1

ENGINE PARTS EXPANSION WATER TANK 1

ENGINE PARTS BRACKET FOR EXPANSION WATER TANK 1

ENGINE PARTS BUILDING MANUAL 1

VARIOUS WIRING LOOM 1

VARIOUS WIPER ARMS 2

VARIOUS WIPER BLADES 2

VARIOUS PLASTIC CAPS ETC

VARIOUS PETROL TANK 1

VARIOUS PETROL TANK STRAPS 2

VARIOUS PETROL FILLER NECK 1

VARIOUS PETROL CAP 1

VARIOUS "PETROL PIPE 2" 1

VARIOUS PETROL PIPE steel 1

VARIOUS BOLT KIT 1

VARIOUS BONNET CLIPS 4

VARIOUS SPEEDO CABLE FOR TIGER DIALS 1

VARIOUS WASHER JET 1

VARIOUS SPEEDO CABLE CIRCLIP 1

VARIOUS WING PIPING LARGE 1

VARIOUS WING PIPING SMALL 1

VARIOUS TIGER BADGE NOSE 1

VARIOUS GRILLE 1

VARIOUS CAN OF SILVER PAINT GRILLE 1

VARIOUS CAN OF BLACK PAINT ENGINE MOUNTS 1

VARIOUS U FINISHER 1

VARIOUS BATTERY LEAD RED 1

VARIOUS BATTERY LEAD BLACK 2


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VARIOUS MODIFICATION TO SIERRA LEGS AND S SHAFT 1

Various Spare wheel bracket 1


OPTIONS SHORT SUMP FOR GROUND CLEARANCE 1

OPTIONS new PROP SHAFT 1

OPTIONS STONE GUARDS 2

OPTIONS REMOTE GEAR CHANGE KIT 1

Options Recon engines(various stages) 1

Options Recon gearbox 1

Options Powder coating to chassis 1

Options Twin side draft webbers Pair

Options Side draft inlet manifold 1

Options Alloy wheels/tyres Set

Options Side screens Pair

Options Full weather-Top and side screens Set

Options Rear boot cover 1

Options Full tonneau 1

Options Adjustable seats Pair

Options 4 Point seat belts pair

Options Seat belt ―pads‖ with TIGER Pair

Options Full trimmed around edge carpets 1

Options RPM gauge(4 colours)with Tiger inset 1

Options Oil Pressure(4 colours) 1

Options Sender units/oil/temp 2

Options Temp(4 colours) 1

Options Luggage Rack 1

Options Polo heater unit(used) 1

Options Quick shift gear modification 1

Options Single loop roll bar(not with weather) 1

Options Competition roll bar(not with weather) 1

Options Chrome Mirrors Pair

Options Carbon fibre look F1 type mirrors pair

Options Super cat rear end 1

Options 7‖x15‖ Alloys for Super Cat set

Options Rad Fan Electric 1


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Options Exhaust guard s/steel TIGER 1

Options Cam cover TIGER 1

Options Zetec fitting kitAlt/brk/belt/pulley/ Kit 1

Options Continued

Option Rear disc conversion Set

Option Race brake pads set

Option Recon callipers pair

Option Reco diff unit/shafts Set

Option Fuel regulator 1

Option Water pump 1

Option Electric fuel pump 1

Option Alternator 100/101/pully 1

Option Round rear lights (6) set

Option Carbon fibre cycle wing 2

Option Carbon fibre rear wings(super six) 2

Option Carbon dash face Panel 1

Option Powder coat to roll bar 1

Option washer bag/pump 1

Option Wiper motor recon /inc wheel boxes 1

Option Battery 1

Option Wurth pu adhesive Sealant 1


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2.0 Fitting of alloy panels

You have been supplied with a panel plan for the partially shaped alloy blanks, firstly identify

and sticky label each panel and safely store until they are required for fitting. Note that the main

side panels have a protective film, make sure that this is not removed, damaged, marked or

scored, as this is the finished outside surface of the sides of the bodywork. In the main this film

should be left on as long as possible to give protection whilst other work is progressing,

remove only small areas for riveting etc. See fig 1.1a for panel positions.

All panels are fixed using 3.2mm rivets, drill at approximately 50mm centres.

As a general rule of thumb you should decide how you will finish the fixing of the alloy, however

make sure that you carefully plan the overlapping and forming of panels to ensure that a natural

radiused edge is produced. Wherever there is to be an overlap make sure that you DO NOT

rivet the panels that are going to be overlapped, this way you will only have to rivet once. If this

advice is ignored, it will result in rivets having to be removed, and extreme difficulty in locating

already drilled rivet holes.

Always use a water- resistant sealant between the panels and the chassis, and make sure that

all overlapped side panels face rearward to assist in avoiding water penetration. Use a bead of

silicon sealant where panels butt together rather than overlap, this will reduce the chance of

sharp edges.

Turn the painted chassis upside down, either support with trestles or stands to protect the

paintwork and give a comfortable working height. you may need to grind down any protruding

welds before fixing the alloy panels (repaint if nes) Cut to shape and fix the two floor panels

onto the bottom of the chassis framework using the pop rivets provided . At this stage do not

rivet the outside edge of the alloy to the chassis, as the side panels will overlap these later.


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2.0 Fitting of alloy panels - continued

At this stage you should take note of section 2 (Brake/Fuel pipes and Electrical harness) of

the build manual as you may wish to fit with easier access.

Now fix the front tunnel ends, that is the panels that go at the front end of the foot well, fix from

the engine compartment side. Carefully take note on how you are going to bend the panels into

the central tunnel area.

Now fix the two rear panels behind the driver and passenger seat areas, fix from the outside of

the seating compartment. Make allowances for the rear suspension mounts, and use the small

GRP corner finishers to work out the actual fitting positions and cut alloy panels accordingly.

At this stage refer to the sections dealing with the gear lever remote control, the gearbox

mount fixing, and the handbrake mechanism. Once you are happy that access is no longer

required to fit these items, then carry on with alloy panels.

Now fix the two piece inner side tunnel panels, these are fitted to the driver and passenger

sides from the inside of the cockpit and not from the prop shaft side. It is worth noting the

position of the Speedo cable take off point on the drivers side, you will need to cut/drill a hole

in the alloy in line with the Speedo cable pick up so that the cable can come into the drivers

footwell, where it will eventually lie under the carpet, and have a gentle unkinked sweep up to

the speedometer. Also consider how you will be filling the gearbox with oil, and whether you

wish to put an access panel in the alloy side panel to assist this. Identi fy the seat belt

anchorage points and make sure that the alloy panel is drilled or cut so that fitting of belts later

is possible.(if electronic speedo is being fitted ignore cable hole)


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Leave the top of the tunnel and the rear parcel shelf until you have completed the installation of

the Independent rear suspension and hand brake mechanism. You may find it more practical to

fix the tunnel and parcel shelf panels with self tapping screws, as this will give you access at a

later date for maintenance.


The rear vertical panel behind the seats can be fixed at any time. Once this has been fitted,

carefully check the positioning of the rear topside panels to ensure that they cover the inside of

the wheel arch. The two small triangular panels are fitted inside the engine compartment, just in

front of the foot-well end and on the engine side of the chassis.

Leave the outside panel fitting until the steering and suspension is in place, you will need to cut

out small appetures for these.

The main side panels should be fitted before the two small front panels; to ensure that the

overlap is in the right direction. Determine carefully where the rear of the main side panel

should be located at the back end of the chassis, as a guide, use the mounting plate of the IRS

as a rough point, but offer up the rear GRP panel to make sure that the GRP overlaps the alloy.

When bending the top and bottom of the side panel over the chassis frame, make sure that you

clamp a length of wood to hold the panel firmly in place before you bend the alloy over. Use a

block of wood and a hammer to gradually bend the alloy over the chassis, do not attempt to

bend it over all the way in one go, work along the length, bending a little at a time. Always hi t

the block and not the alloy, to avoid marking the finished face.

The top fold is done in two stages the first is a 90 degree bend over the top rail and then

another 90 degree bend into the driver and passenger cockpits, rivet every 50mm. Before

folding the side panels into the cockpit make sure that you have a good flush side fit with the

GRP dash moulding.


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Two separate small side panels finish off the front of the main side. Make sure that you cut the

front to give sufficient material to ensure that the nose cone covers it, this avoids unsightly gaps

between the two.


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Before fixing the drivers side panel it is suggested you fit the exhaust pipes to the engine to

enable you to take some measurements and determine exactly where the cut out is to be. A

cardboard template should be made, it will save a lot of head scratching, obviously the exhaust

pipes will have to be removed before fitting the panel.

A cut out has to be provided in the drivers side panel to accommodate the exhaust pipes, (see

previous paragraph) allow an approximately 25mm larger hole than the exhausts need.

The panel across the top of the chassis ahead of the GRP dash should be fitted and fixed

before fitting the dash itself.


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Alloy panel-fixing plan

VERTICAL

VERTICAL


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Alloy panel shape identification


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3.0 Brake lines

The brake lines in the kit are supplied with all ends flanged with connector union ends on

And boxed for easy identification.

The front and rear flexi brake hoses are both the same and fit male – male.

All pipe work must be supported with pipe clips at 75mm intervals.

The master cylinder must be fitted before you secure the main front to rear brake line; this will

allow you to accurately offer up the brake line before final fixing. The master cylinder should be

attached to the main chassis upright brackets(two) using two M10 bolts and nyloc nuts,the

Sierra pedals will bolt on behind the master cylinder with the same bolts.

The brake line should be attached to the rear most connection of the master cylinder and then

run parallel with the fuel line along the tunnel side of the chassis member, (NOT) underneath.

Run the lines along the top chassis, driver side, member until you reach the gearbox mount

upright (or you can rivet them to the alloy sides of front tunnel)then down to the lower chassis

member and continue rearward. The ― T ― piece joiner should be attached and the rear pipes

routed to either side to reach the flexi pipes –these are connected to the brackets hanging

From chassis.

3.0 Brake lines - continued

To achieve the correct braking efficiency for the SVA brake test -it is desirable to fit a brake

compensator/regulator between front and rear, the standard Sierra compensator will do the job

adequately.this will help you to achieve something like 70% front and 30% rear brakes.


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The connection between the rear brake lines and the brakes is by flexi hose as supplied; the

connection is made at the pipe holder brackets behind the seat positions.

Remember that the prop shaft runs down the tunnel and the handbrake lever will move in the

tunnel so make sure that the pipes and wiring are away from these areas.

Fig 3


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3.0 Brake lines - continued

The front brake pipes can now be fitted to the two front master cylinder connections, one near

side, the other for the off side, once again space the pipe clips as near to 75mm intervals as

possible. If there is any doubt about the possibility of brake lines chafing, slit a piece of rubber

pipe and cover the brake line area that may need protection, wherever possible cable tie the

protective pipe to hold it in position.

The brake fluid level should preferably be visible in the master cylinder without removing the

cap, and the master cylinder must be clearly marked with a permanent minimum level. A red

―low fluid‖ warning light must be fitted to the dash on the same bulb as handbrake warning bulb

this is for a test facility..

Run a wire from the terminal on the handbrake warning light bulb (terminal from hand brake

lever)on your dash to the cap on the reservoir, another wire from the reservoir to the nearest

earth point. It does not matter which two of the three terminals you use. You can test the circuit

by switching the ignition on and pushing

The button on the res.top to bring the red brake warning lamp on.


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4.0 Fuel line

The fuel line follows the route of the front to rear brake line, inside the central tunnel, secure with

―P‖ clips at 75mm intervals. Terminate the fuel line at the rear anywhere away from moving parts

and secure the end of the line, but leave enough space to attach the rubber fuel pipe that runs

to the near side of the fuel tank.

The front fuel line should terminate as near to the carbs. as possible and not near any moving

parts or main battery terminals at this point you can fit a small fuel filter if required, the rubber

fuel hose can then be routed through to the Sierra fuel pump(if manual pump is used) Connect

the fuel pump to the carburettors with a piece of rubber fuel hose.(if ele ctric pump is being used

route is as follows-from tank to Filter to inlet of pump-from outlet of pump inside tunnel to rubber

pipe in engine bay to carbs—(IF FUEL INJECTED ENGINE IS GOING TO BE

USED CONTACT TIGER BEFORE YOU START YOUR BUILD AS

DIFFERENT PARTS ON THE FUEL SYSTEM WILL NEED TO BE USED)

The standard Sierra fuel pump should be adequate for use with twin 40’s, however if you wish

to fit an electric fuel pump for higher bhp output engines This should be fitted at the rear of the

car, behind the drivers seat panel away from any moving parts. Affix the inlet to the pump, which

will be marked, to the tank end, and the outlet of the pump to the fuel line end, fix using hose

clamps. Do not forget that a fuel filter will need to be fitted between pump and tank .

Attach all rubber hoses to the chassis with the large rubber lined metal pipe clips provided.


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5.0 Wiring

5.1 Loom

The Cat E1 wiring loom has been purpose made, you should tape off any terminals not

required, IE electric fuel pump.

The central wiring loom has to be offered up and fitted at an early stage of the kit assembly; the

main cable runs front to rear alongside the brake and fuel lines inside the central tunnel. Before

finally tying in the loom, make sure that you have it positioned correctly. A good way of

achieving this is to locate the fuse and relay boxes on the passenger side under dash alloy

panel and run the wiring loom into the engine compartment and to the rear light area another

important position

Is the alternator plug.

Using ―p‖ clips or similar drill the chassis and secure at aprox 100 mm intervals

Once in position, temporarily tie the loose wiring tails up so that they are not damaged during

the remainder of the kit build.

The Tiger wiring loom is very easy to connect once you have identified all the connections, It

pays to spend time tagging the terminals with the destination, this will make the final routing of

the wiring loom ends easier. When identifying the wiring the legend is composed in such a way

that the first colour mentioned is the main wire colour, whatever follows is the stripe. IE

WG = white wire with green stripe.

PB = purple wire with black stripe.

RLG = red wire with light green stripe.


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5.1 Loom - continued

The wiring legend is as follows:

B = black N = brown

R = red U = blue

P = purple W = white

G = green LG = light green

PLEASE NOTE THAT IN ALL CASES BLACK IS EARTH.

Ignition coil - W = +ive

WB = -ive

Distributor - W = +supply

WB = from coil –ive

B = earth

Fuel shut-off valve - WG = supply

Choke switch - WG = supply

Temperature sender - UG

Oil pressure switch - WN

Oil pressure sender - WY

Starter motor - N = starter+

WR = solenoid

R = starter+

Alternator - Pre-wired


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Horn - PY = supply

B = earth

Radiator fan - BR = supply

B = earth

Radiator fan thermal - N = supply

Switch RLG = radiator fan relay

Battery - B = earth lead to chassis ##

R = to starter #

# It is advisable to fit a battery isolator/cut off switch under the dash board, if you have done so then

the red lead from the battery goes to the switch, you must then run another red battery lead from the switch

to the starter motor.

## You have been supplied with two black battery wires, one goes to the chassis cross member near

the battery, the other connects with that same lead on the chassis fixing, and goes to the most convenient

engine/gearbox bell housing bolt. This will ensure you get a good earth.

Left hand front lights - GR = indicator

UR = dip beam

UW = main beam

R = side light

B = earth


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Left hand front fog - RU = supply

light B = earth

Right hand front light - UR = dip beam

UW = main beam

GW = indicator

R = side light

B = earth

Right hand front fog - RU = supply

Light B = earth

Left hand rear lights - GR = left hand indicator

5 pin socket GP = brake

GN = reverse

R = tail

B = earth

Right hand rear lights - GP = brake

5 pin socket GW = indicator

GN = reverse

R = tail

B = earth

Number plate light - R = supply

B = earth

Rear fog light - RU

B

RW

RU

Washer motor - LGB = supply

Fuse box - pre-wired

Wiper motor - pre-wired

Reverse light switch - G = supply

GN = to lights


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Handbrake switch - BW

5.1 Loom – continued

Electric fuel pump - WP = supply / 2 pin socket

B = earth / 2 pin socket

Fuel sender - GB = from gauge

B = earth

Heater motor - GB = 1st speed

GY = 2nd speed

B = earth

Brake light switch - G = supply

GP = to lights

Horn switch - PB = earthed through switch

Right hand indicator - GW = supply

Warning light B = earth

Tachometer - RWorR = illumination

B = earth

G = +supply (voltage sensing tacho)Std tiger

WB = signal from coil (voltage sensing tacho)std tiger

W = looped coil+supply # not std # if a current sensing tacho is used, this loop is cut and the tacho is then wired in series with the coil.

Main beam - UW = supply


Fuel gauge - Rw or R supply

B = earth

G = +supply/b

GB = fuel gauge sender unit / T

Charge warning light - G = supply

NY - alternator field

Oil pressure gauge - RW or R =illumination

B = earth

G = +supply /b


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WY = oil pressure sender unit /T

Oil pressure - WN = oil switch

Warning light G = supply


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Water temperature - RW = illumination

Gauge B = earth

G = +supply /b

UG = temperature sender unit /T

Handbrake - BW = switch to earth

warning light G = supply

Speedo - RW = illumination

B = earth

Left hand indicator - GR = supply


Ignition and start - See drawing at rear of book

column switch

Wash and wipe - see drawing at rear of book

column switch

Indicator and dip - see drawing at rear of book

column switch

Heater - RW

G

GB

GY

B

Hazard - GY

GR

GW

B

R

Lights - RB

U

N

B

RW


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Radiator fan relay - BR = pre-wired

B = pre-wired

RLG = pre-wired

BR = pre-wired

Horn relay - P = pre-wired

PY = pre-wired

PB = pre-wired

P = pre-wired

Ignition controlled - W = pre-wired

indicator relay LGN = pre-wired

B = pre-wired

LGN = pre-wired

Flasher unit - P = pre-wired

Electronic B = pre-wired

GY+GN = pre-wired

Solenoid isolator # - WR = supply

WR = send

# These two wires are used as a inhibitor switch if using an automatic gear box, this normally

stops you starting the engine with the gear lever in any position other than neutral. You can use

these wires to connect up your own switch maybe under dash for added security, if not, join the

two wires together to complete the circuit.

When wiring the dashboard instruments, simply plug the connector ends into the connection

points on the instruments. Multi plugs are used for switches. There are two main sections of the

dash-wiring loom, one feeds the instruments and the other feeds the switches and auxiliaries.


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There is a pre-wired Multi plug also to be found with the dash wiring loom –this is for a dim dip

light system and not used at present --If you are fitting electronic ignition, refer to the supplier’s

fitting/wiring instructions or wire from drawing at rear of this book-we only use the earlier two

types as listed at the back (standard ford)


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5.2 Wiper and indicator stalks

The Sierra stalks are used for indicator and wipers; the side/headlamp switch stalk is not used,

so cut this off flush with a junior hacksaw. The hazard switch can also be removed as it is

replaced by a dash mounted Hazard switch -- the original switch is left in the off position and the

red ―tell tale‖ can be removed.

5.3 Dashboard and dials

Standard dials used in the Cat E1 kit are Speedo and fuel gauge, the tachometer, oil and water

gauges can all be bought from Tiger if required. The warning lights are for indicators left and

right, ignition, main beam, oil level and handbrake warning /low fluid When laying out the dash

make sure that the indicator left and right warning lights are separated by the other lights and are

clearly visible from the drivers seated position and not obscured by the steering wheel.

Dials, warning lights and switches can be positioned to your own preference, make sure that the

Speedo and tachometer are visible from the drivers position. It pays to cut out paper patterns

for the dials, lights and switches and attach them to the wooden dash backing board with blue

tack. When you have finally decided on the dash layout you can mark and cut the wooden

backing and mark the GRP dash face for cutting out. Fig.5

When designing the dash layout bear in mind the wiring loom position and the length of the tails

to the dials, switches and warning lights. It is not a good idea to extend these wires if it can be

avoided. Fig 5


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6.0 Pedals

The Sierra pedal ass. drops in from the top and between the brackets fig 6

Welded to the chassis (front top)of footwell area,There is one guide hole for fig 6a

Master cylinder position and is for earlier type sierra master cylinder only fig 6a

Hold the master cylinder level up against the front brackets and mark with a pen or punch

Mark where the second hole needs to be drilled-drill both holes with 10mm drill bit.

Drop in the pedals and bolt in both pedals and master cylinder—at this point the master

cylinder push rod will need to be put in and checked for correct push into the cylinder.

The rod has a small thread on its end (a 10mm lock nut is fitted on)this is the end that

pushes against the pedals

The smaller step on the same end should have a 3/32inch hole drilled 5 mm from its end

And a washer of the correct size put on (drivers side of the pedal with a small spilt pin

fitted).Fig 6c

Fig 6b 6f


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This will stop the push rod from dropping out of the pedals- at this stage also the brake

Fig 6c

light switch is adjusted(twist to remove)also another bolt is fitted next to the switch in the

other hole in pedal for a stop as a safety measure to stop pedal from coming to far back

and master cylinder rod dropping out. Fig 6b

THROTTLE PEDAL

The throttle pedal pivots on the bolt welded to the chassis to the right of the brake pedal

Two holes are drilled in the flat section –the cable is passed through one hole –back through the other

and cable locked---THE PEDAL CAN BE BENT IN ANY POSITION FOR BETTER

FIT AND CLEARANCE See fig 6f


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7.0 Rear of car suspension and brakes

7.1 Suspension

The Cat E1 uses the rear independent suspension from the Ford Sierra saloon/hatchback (not

the estate), make sure that the suspension unit has been thoroughly cleaned, de -rusted and

painted before fitting to the Cat.

Remove all the brake lines from the suspension unit as there are new lines in the cat kit.

Check for wear in the bushes, replace if necessary.

Check the rubber suspension mounts for excessive wear and deterioration, cut off the raised

part of the steel tube on the front rubber mounting brackets fig . 2.0you will also need to remove

a small amount of metal from the framework around the front mo unts for fitting into the Cat

otherwise the Metal on the frame around the large bush area will hit on the rear chassis on the

cat.

The rear frame/suspension will now be able to rest on the chassis at the rear .

Fit the two 12mm large bolts from the top – lock nuts underside.

Support the differential unit with a block of wood and jack up the rear suspension -mark carefully


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through the differential bracket (rubber type with 4 holes) onto the steel chassis plate -drill 4

holes

And fit 4 bolts and lock nuts 10mm


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Fig 7

7.2 Rear springs

The tiger rear coil springs are located in the lower arms suspension depression and in the

circular section on the Cat chassis, different rated springs are available from Tiger for

competition use.

Position the locator into the arm and centralise- bolt in the spring locator in the Sierra housing

arm with an M8 bolt and large washers, this is to centralise the springs as best as possible a

new hole can be drilled if required,Put in the spring on top of the locator –jack up the arm until

the spring is slightly compressed Inside the chassis round tube -the shocks can now be fitted fig

7

7.3 Rear shock absorbers

The rear shock absorbers are fitted to the brackets located on the rear upper chassis and on

the lower Sierra suspension, Tiger can supply optional adjustable shock absorbers if required.

Use large washers to pack out between shocks and brackets(not tube)

7.4 Rear brakes


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New flexible brake pipes are supplied with the Cat kit, the brake assemblies from the Sierra

donor car should be checked over and replaced if necessary , the hand brake cables can be

fitted at this stage and left unconnected on chassis.


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7.5 Handbrake

The Cat uses the hand brake lever from the Sierra, the lever is positioned in the brackets in The

Centre of the chassis .

Clamp the Sierra hand brake cable in a vice, use a hacksaw to cut the inner cable 120mm from

the outer cable on both sides Alternatively new handbrake cables can be purchased from

Tiger if required.

Shorten the new centre cable supplied(cut threaded end)with eyelet

The shortened hand brake cable is fitted putting the eyelet to the lever; the other end is passed

through the balance bar Both left and right hand brake cables go through the small tubes

welded on the chassis member, these tubes hold the outer cables in position, with the inner

cables passing through the balance bar(a b) cable locks are used to hold in position(these

locks must have small 5mm Hex cap head bolts fitted) see fig 2.4A


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8.0 Fuel tank

The Cat fuel tanks capacity is 5.6 gallons (25 litres). The fuel tank is positioned on the rear

horizontal chassis supports behind the vertical alloy panel, use rubber strip or other to sit the

tank on-. Position the tank centrally and approximately 75mm from the vertical chassis members

on which the seat belt fixings are situated.It is advisable to loosely fit the rear grp section to

check for clearance and position of tank/neck/filler/wheels being central.

The fuel tank is to be held in position by using 2 purpose made metal straps, with rubber

protection packing. Use M8 bolts and nyloc nuts to fix the metal straps to the chassis member,

avoid the fuel tank sender unit fixing point and the tank filler.(it may be req uired to cut off a

piece of the 2‖ filler tube on the tank) fig 8

After the rear body GRP panel is fitted, the fuel tank filler neck and cap can fitted in to position, it

is recommended that the cap is fitted as high as possible on the off side rear of the body(under

boot cover) Mark the position of the neck in relation to the tank filler tube inside; allow for the

angle of the neck tube hole, and cut out the GRP with a 50mm hole cutter and file out to a slight

oval with a half round file. Use a hacksaw blade or file to cut out a small recess for the breather

pipefitting.(neck to fuel tank)

The neck is fitted into the GRP body panel. Position and drill holes to fix to the GRP panel(

counter sunk hole) on outer edge - A short length of metal reinforced rubber pipe fits over the

tank filler pipe and the metal filler cap attachment is supplied, if you have to shorten this leave

enough pipe to allow fixing with a jubilee clip on each end.

Offer up the electrical fuel gauge sender unit alongside the tank and bend the wire float

assembly to a position where it will give accurate full and empty readings. Fig 8a


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The electric fuel tank sender must be carefully fitted by drilling holes through the top of the fuel

tank, care must be taken to avoid metal filings dropping into the tank, use the Gasket to mark

the hole positions, drill with 3mm drill. Use the gasket /seal when fitting unit with self-tapping

screws.


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8.0 Fuel tank - continued

Fit a rubber fuel tank breather pipe to the fitting near the tank filler pipe, attach the other end to

Fig 8a Fig 8

The filler cap end and use jubilee clips

The main rubber fuel pipe is attached to the near side end of the fuel tank, use a jubilee clip to

hold firm, this rubber pipe runs around the near side of the chassis and connects to the copper

fuel line if a manual pump is being used-or to the electric pump inlet. Fig 8

9.0 Rear GRP body panel

With an assistant carefully position the rear GRP body panel on to the top rear chassis cross member, carefully align and

mark area on top edge near to roll bar anchorage plates. Cut away a small piece of inner top GRP panel to

allow a snug fit on top of chassis beam.Fig 9a

The lower rear edge of the GRP panel needs to have two slots cut out where it locates on the

spare wheel supports, cut out approximately 15mm x 30mm. Allow enough space to

accommodate edging to finish off. It is very important to have wheels on the rear

suspension and measure from each edge of the Grp rear end corners


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for an even gap each side—best possible as the grp will not be exactly

the same. Below Fig 9a Below(rear) 9b

Fig 9


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9.0 Rear GRP body panel and wings - continued

The curved front edges of the GRP panel are fixed to the alloy side panels with rivets use

small rubber piping between GRP edge and alloy to give good finish and reduce exposed

edge. Before fixing, clean up and prepare all edges to give a correct radius and neat

appearance, this cannot be done once fixed. Fig 9

The lower rear corner of the GRP panels can be supported by metal 25mm x 5mm bar straps

which run from the lower inner edge of the wing to the fixing bracket on the rear lower chassis

member. Use M8 bolts and nyloc nuts to secure. These wing supports are designed only to

use if necessary and will change the wing clearance to tyre, so check carefully before cutting

and drilling.

10.0 GRP Dash panel and fascia

10.1 Fuse box and Relay block

Decide the fixing point for the fuse boxes and relay blocks, check that the under dash section

of the wiring loom can reach all the instruments, make sure that the fuses and relays remain

accessible with the dash in position.-Factory built cars have the fuze box on the front edge

Of the chassis member under dash. Above pic fig 10

10.2 Dash fascia


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Before fitting the GRP dash panel to the chassis it is advisable to compound and finish the GRP

edges and finish face to a near finished state, the dial, switch and warning light holes should

also be cut out ready for fitting.10a

It is advisable that you cut out cardboard patterns of the fitments that are going to be used, note

that Tiger can provide additional water, oil and tachometer instruments if required. Position the

templates onto the plywood fascia panel, when you are sure that you have the best layout, stick

with Blue tack or similar, mark the plywood and cut out the apertures. Fig 10a


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10.2 Dash fascia – continued

Ensure they can be clearly seen and not obscured when in driving position, switches should

also be reachable. Make sure that the hole measurements are precise, as the front bezel of the

fitting must cover the trim cloth to obscure the hole and give a neat appearance.

Offer the plywood dash instrument panel up to the GRP dash and check if any minor trimming is

required, remember to allow for the thickness of the cover cloth overlap. Once the correct

shape is found and edges sanded to round off, cover the panel with thin foam backing and

cloth, fix to the plywood with adhesive and or staple gun . When dry carefully cut the cloth

around the instrument apertures using a sharp craft/model knife.

The finished dash fascia will be held in position by the Dial braces and glued underside.

The bottom edge of the dash must have a soft rounded look-or something soft over it when

taken for sva- Also the chassis under dash (across)with fuze box on it-must also have soft front-

A good tip is put some foam central heating pipe lagging over it for sva.

10.3 GRP Dash panel.

Before this panel is fitted make sure that the Windscreen wiper motor and mechanism is fitted,

and the instrument holes have been cut out, the wiring loom should also be in the correct

position.

The front of the dash panel is located 255mm from the front edge o f the top chassis member

(see diagram fig 10g……). Drill two 8mm holes approximately 50mm in from the front and rear

corners of the GRP panel, on both sides and offer up, when it’s in correct position scribe

through the holes to mark the top of the chassis side beams. Remove the dash and drill

through the chassis rail, the dash panel is held into position by using 4 x M8 x 45 bolts and


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nyloc nuts, use penny washers or purpose made stiffeners under the bolt heads to spread the

load.


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Fitting Dash Panel to Dashboard

What you need:

Dashboard.

Dash Panel.

File.

Hole cutter.

Material


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The dash panel is pre-cut .Place on the dash board and mark positions for dials and switches-use a hole

cutter and file-check that all SVA requirements are met for visible instruments

And warning lamps

cover the dash with the material supplied.use a blade for cutting the material for dials to fit. Check sva

requirements for radius on dash edges.(thin sponge on dash gives padded effect)

Ensure the dash panel fits the dashboard snugly, especially on the right where the horn sits, then separate

them. Fig12

N.B. Remember when filing the fibre glass to wear a mask and goggles...


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Fig 10bb

Fig 10aa


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10.4 Wiper motor, arms and blades

The two-speed wiper motor for the Cat is taken from a Mini; the wheel box centres need to be

reduced. First measure the centre of the positions for the wiper wheel boxes (arms) on the

dash moulding, and drill out to take the threaded ends from the wheel boxes.

Remove the wheel boxes from the motor drive shaft and check that they are running freely. Refit

one wheel box to the curved shaft attached to the motor, then cut the centre longer straight

piece to give you the centre of the second box.

to satisfy SVA wipe requirement the wipers must park down in front of the driver and self park if

they do not- remove the cover over the wheel box, take the circlip of the spindle. Now take

the lever off the drive wheel and lift the drive wheel clear, you will see a plastic raised part

using a small screwdriver lift off and replace on opposite side of gear –this will change the self

park by 180 degrees.

The wiper arms will need cutting to length and bending for wipe and park positioning, the

blades must also be cut to length, measure the shortest windscreen dimension, this will be

centre vertical, and cut the blades to length by reducing each end equally. Fig 10.bb

You will have to find the best final position for the wipers by trial and error, make sure that the

wiper motor has alterations have changed the park position before you put the arms and blades

on.

Park position should now be with blades lying flat in front of the driver, and the wiper sweep

should give clear driver visibility. Picture of wiper motor fitted using small ―u‖ shaped alloy

bracket

Fig 10.aa – this picture also shows the webcon ecu under dash


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10.5 Windscreen

What you need:

Windscreen frame.

uprights

Drill.

M8 nuts, 6 off.

Chrome dome head bolts M8, 6 off.

8.mm drill bit.

Position uprights on dash side -drill the three 8 mm holes(see drawing fig 10.cc for position

bolt both uprights on using 8 mm bolts


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with large washers inside dash panel. Measure from top of upright to the wiper wheelboxes(on

dash) get these the same for each side to centralise

the uprights on car.—bend these and check each time using the windscreen frame inside.

Place frame into position.(the frame should have had bottom corners cut off)

the uprights will need to be twisted using a adjustable spanner fitted to the lower edge of the

upright—the upright must be square (90 degrees) to the channel it sits in—if this is not done

it is likely that you will crack the screen when tightening.

The upright should sit flush to the bodywork of the dashboard and onto the windscreen frame

with no visible gap between the pillars, frame and bodywork.(best possible)

N.B. The upright should form a 90° corner with the frame. Fig 10.dd

Fit the glass inside the frame and place into position inside the uprights

drill through the uprights using the pattern in the manual for correct hole positions(three holes

5mm)and just touch the screen frame with the drill

remove the glass -and drill through the marks on the frame.

cut of one edge of all of the 5 mm 12 long bolts(6) using a pair of long nose pliers fit all bolts

inside the frame—remove the uprights and fit them to the frame using the domed nuts -leave

lose---with a helper put glass inside the frame and uprights-one each side lower the

assembly over the car and fit onto the dash channel- fit all(6 ) 8mm bolts—tighten all

bolts/nuts(16)making sure that the glass does not tighten -the desired result is a glass that will

“slide “left to right- when all is tight.

apply silicone into the channel front and back(not excessive)drop in the small piping---leave

24 hours—then seal around all outer edges (not excessive silicone

See back of manual for pattern to drill uprights


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Fig 10dd


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10.6 Washer bottle

The washer bottle can be fitted anywhere you choose, check the capacity required for SVA if

not using a Tiger or Sierra part.(minimum 1,5ltr) Drill a hole in the top centre of the GRP dash

panel and fit the water jet, attach pipe between washer bottle and jets.

Electrical connection is from loom.

10.7 Vehicle identity plate

When you are nearing completion of you kit build, phone Tiger at Thorney Toll, they will issue a

proper vehicle identity plate, this will show the chassis numbe r-this is riveted to usually the

bonnet side of the Dash. The chassis number should also be on your purchase invoice.Fig

10.ee

Fig 10.ee


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11.0 Steering

11.1 Steering Rack

The Cat uses a Ford Cortina steering rack.

Before fitting the steering rack, cut off 5 threads from each rod end.

The two brackets for holding down the steering rack have to be drilled - drill the brackets

using the chassis members as a guide. It is advisable to use new rubber bushes, which are

normally available from Ford dealerships. The rubber bush fits under the bracket and over the

steering rack, once located use M8 bolts and nyloc nuts and washers and tighten down.(good

condition

Used rubber bushes can be fitted)

When the wheels and mudguards have been fitted, test the turning lock to ascertain whether the

wheels are fouling the wings or bodywork. It may be necessary to provide a stop on the

steering rack to stop this. A stop in the form of a half moon section 5mm – 10mm half welded in


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position or a jubilee clip can sometimes be used. Fit the stop under the rubber gaiter at the

steering rod knuckle joint.


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11.2 Front suspension

Before fitting the front suspension make sure that the car is level. The front suspension on the

Cat is made up of Tiger rocker arms, Spax shock absorbers fitted inboard, Sierra track control

arms, Tiger lower arms, Sierra hubs and callipers with a Tiger modification to the Sierra leg.

Fig 11a Fig 11b

11.3 Rocker arms

Fig 11a and 11b shows different ways of fitting the bushes

Two steel sleeved rubber bushes are inserted into each end of the tubular section (centre) of

the rocker arm. These can be pressed in if a suitable press is available or a large vice will be

fine, with a file clean out the powder coat inside the tube section of the rocker-with a file or small

sander remove clean the zinc coating from outside of the steel bush-grease both inside the

tube and outside of the steel bush and press in –the bush is put in flush with the end of the

rocker. The nylon spacer washers(small piece is cut off edge)will be against these -if using a

hammer and possibly and small piece of tube or an old socket- be careful not to burr over the

end of the bush.


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11.4 Track control arms

If you are using the old Sierra track control arms, check the condition of the ball joint and

bushes before fitting, new track control arms can be purchased from Tiger if

required.(recommended)

Fit the new bush in Tiger lower arms, it maybe necessary to use soap and press in with a vice,

the larger end of the bush goes towards the rear of the car, fit using M10 bolt. Now fit lower arm

onto track control arm using the new bush kit. Use 12m x 90mm bolts for lower arm to chassis

fixing. The bush kit supplied is a replacement for the old sierra track control arm bush-

The larger part of the bush goes to rear of car(first on the lower arm.

11.5 Hub assembly

Fit the hub assembly onto the track control arm ball joint and tighten lock nut, slide the modified

leg into the hub and set at 95mm(min 90mm),measure from centre of ball joint to top edge of

Hub assembly- This measurement has been tested and should eliminate virtually all bump

steer from the suspension.


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Note: If fitting cycle wings, the two lugs welded on the modified leg for the mudguard sup ports

must have all edges radiused to meet SVA regulations.or a ―u‖ shaped trim fitted

11.6 Top ball joint(fig 11d)

Wind the large half nut on to the top ball joint, then wind the ball joint into the rocker arms, lift up

hub and push down taper on the ball joint into the modified leg and tighten the lock nut. The top

ball joint needs to be set at zero camber, to achieve this once again check that the car is level

and then put a spirit level against the brake disk and ensure that it is vertical, winding in or out

adjusts the camber. You will have to remove the top ball joint from it’s taper each time you

need to alter the camber. Check all the edges on the hub assembly and radius to 2.5mm

before painting, all nuts and bolts that are exposed on the suspension must be fitted with plastic

dome caps as supplied in the kit. The Picture shows spirit level used on super six for camber

adjustment. Camber can be set on stands—with no springs fitted fit the shocks to front---level

the chassis on the stands-lift suspension to mid way point on shocks and set camber.

Fig 11d below


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11.7 Front shock absorber

The Cat front shock absorbers are fitted inboard. Fig 11e

Fit the bottom of the shock absorber to the lugs on the chassis just behind the steering rack ,

use 2.5‖ bolts with nyloc nuts to fix. Take the top alloy cap off the shock absorber (use

manufacturers instructions) and drop the spring over the top of the shock absorber. Use a

spring compressor to clamp down the spring and refit the top alloy cap.

The top of the shock absorber is fitted to the inside attachment point of the rocker arm, use 2.5‖

bolts and nyloc nuts to secure.

It may be required to sand or file off some of the edges of the suspension brackets on the

chassis and rockers if the bolts are difficult to fit .

The front shock absorbers are adjustable, if necessary adjust to suit the driving conditions and

car set up.

Tiger can provide different rating springs, if required.

Fig 11e below


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11.8 Tracking front wheels

The front wheel tracking must be set at 4mm toe in.


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The Sierra steering column is used on the Cat, and fixed to a Tiger split shaft with rose joint

bolted to the chassis. Fig 11f and 11g

First clear out with a file or other the steel bush we lded to the chassis (the nylon round bush on

The end of the column)will be turning inside this.

Trail fit the nylon bush inside with the column and remove and lightly file around bush to give a

Smooth(not tight) feel when turned.Now grease both inside the steel tube and outside the nylon

bush. Now fit the column alloy housing onto the two flat steel sections(these can be slightly

bent for flush fit ) and drill 2 holes(best position is highest as possible to touch under dash

panel Attach loosely using two bolts, with large penny washers, and nyloc nuts. Adjust driving

position at a later stage when the steering wheel is fitted.

11.11

STEERING SHAFT(split)with rose joint

Slide the rubber coupling attached to the steering split shaft onto the splined s haft on the

steering rack pinion, the coupling has splines inside, and must be aligned to ensure that the


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gap on the coupling is central to the single spline on the splined shaft. Use a M8 high tensile bolt on this-(Fig 11g below

)

coupling. The rose joint fits to the large hole in the chassis – fit the universal joint to the column

And tighten using high tensile bolt and making sure that the triangle section is far enough inside

for safety .

11.10 Steering wheel

The standard equipment supplied with the Cat kit is the Mountney steering wheel and boss. Fit

the boss to the steering column shaft using the large nut and washer from the Sierra column, try

to centralise the wheel with the tracking to get correct alignment, at this stage it might be

required

To lengthen the column slightly and or sand a little off the bottom of the boss(if tight on stalks).

Fig 11f below


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12.0 Engine and gear box

Before fitting the engine and gearbox and clutch has to be inspected if not new and

Checked for correct splines in centre plate for 5 speed type 9 box.

The central gearbox fitting mount on the Sierra has to be removed from the larger pan and

taken apart., you will use the small inner rubber part to the gear box - Fix to the gearbox using a

large 12mm bolt .

Remember to fill the gearbox with oil before fitting. A small polythene bag tied around the rear

end of the gearbox will stop the oil from leaking as you drop in the engine and box.

Cut two small pieces of wood 4inchx2inch these will be required to put between the front

engine mounting brackets and chassis plates when dropping engine into place to aid the

correct positioning and drilling - Lower the engine and gearbox into to chassis tilting to

approximately 45 degrees . lower the rear mount onto the two chassis rails inside tunnel -

lower the engine

Down to aprox level and bolt on the two steel engine mounts -lower again onto the two pieces

Of timber and remove the engine hoist. Temporarily Check with exhaust pipes that the exit is

fine through the chassis-also that the alternator has clearance and adjustment-when you are

satisfied that the engine position is ok –you can drill through the engine mounts –through the

wood-through the chassis plates- put a small jack under the sump(use something soft on jack)

jack up

And remove the wood-replace with the rubber engine mounts and lower –tighten bolts.

CHECK AND MAKE SURE THAT YOU ALIGN EVERTHING CORRECTLY BEFORE DRILLING

THE Engine MOUNTING BRACKETS. Check clearance from water pump pulley bolts to spring s


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Minimum clearance 10 mm—it may be required to grind off a little of the rear of the gear box

bell housing on left hand side to give correct clearance on front springs to water pump pulley

bolts

The rear gearbox mounting plate holes can now be drilled through 8mm into chassis rails -the

holes will be close to edge of tube.. Fig 12 below


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12.0 Engine and gear box - continued

I f you are fitting twin side draft carbs it will be necessary to raise the near side of the engine a

little to make sure that the carburettors are clear of the top chassis rail. Use washers as

packers on the top of the rubber mount if required or purpose made spacers between the

chassis and the rubber mounting (alloy is ok)

12.1 Clutch cable

The clutch cable is taken from the sierra or a new one can be supplied from TIGER RACING

The sierra pedal has a self adjusting mechanism and can be slightly adjusted by bending the

metal ―stop‖ on the pedal assembly (small flat tab)that touches the small nylon piece on the

pedal. It is probable that the cable might need a small tube piece on the gear box bell housing

To extend the outer cable for better adjustment. Fig 12

12.2 Gear stick - standard

If Using the standard Sierra gear stick. This has to be cut and a bent piece of small tube cut

and welded on to get the better angle to bring the gear stick back towards the driver-another

straight Piece of 10mm threaded bar or bolt is then welded onto the first piece of bent tube for

the knob to screw Onto.(remote is preferred)

12.3 Gear stick - remote

If fitting a tiger remote the small reverse stop in the top of the gearbox

needs to be removed.

This is done by knocking out the small oval plate in the top rail(near gear

stick hole)


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Lever/and knock out the small piece of steel on drivers side (use a small

bar or similar) Fig 12a

Refit small plate.

Fix the gear stick remote to the bracket welded in the central part of the chassis, bolt the rose

joint on first. The two metal bar straps 25mm x 5mm are extended fo rwards to the shortened

Sierra gear stick. Fig 12 a below

12.3 Gear stick – remote - continued

As the remote linkage has it’s own reverse stop bolt – this is fitted on drivers side of

The central bracket on chassis –and must be m8 and long enough to adjust –use a lock nut

each side.

Fig 12.4aa

When fitting any modified sump use a round piece of plasticine on edge of pick up


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And gently push on the sump- you must have around 8mm clearance between sump and pick

up.


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12.4 Modified sump oil level

It is essential to fit a modified sump, to give you a ground clearance .

As this changes the capacity of the sump you will need to re mark the dipstick to suit the new

level. First fill with 4.5 litres of oil, run the engine for a few minutes, dip the oil and note the new

level and mark with a hacksaw. This will give you the correct check level for the 4.5-litre

capacity.

(for customers wishing to modify their own sump see fig 12.4aa…..)

12.5 Engine wiring

The engine wiring is relatively simple to follow, however note that if fitting electronic ignition from

the Sierra donor car you must carefully check that it is in good working order and follow the

electronic ignition wiring diagrams following this section. There are two early types of electronic

ignition systems fitted to the Sierra, please make sure you follow the instructions for the correct

one—if your ignition system differs to the ones in the manual-please refer to a ford or haynes

Manual-

If you are using a new purpose made electronic ignition system, simply follow the

manufacturers instructions.

If you wish you can use the standard points type distributor from a Ford Cortina, this will do the

job and will simplify the ignition system. Make sure that you use a new set of po ints, and either

use the Cortina coil or purchase a suitable 12 volt coil for this type of ignition. If you use the

Sierra coil you will burnt out the points. It is also advisable to replace the condenser. For points

distributor You will have to run a separate wire from the neg - connection of the coil to the

terminal on the side of the distributor.(this terminal on the coil also feeds the rpm gauge)on tiger

supplied gauges


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12.6 Engine wiring – continued

showing coil position cat(can be elsewhere) Alternator(small)pinto exhaust

As a general rule of thumb, use 30 amp fuses to get things going, these can be reduced in line

with the Sierra fuse usage when all circuits have been tested.

The Cat normally has two relays one for the indicato rs the other for general circuitry, however

some cats have a four-relay system, which merely have another two similar relays. Do not

attempt to use the old Sierra four pin relays. The Tiger supplied relays are 5 pin voltage drop

relays and the system is wired for use with these.(the indicator relay has 3 pins and you can

identify the position on the loom by it having only 3 wires into back of relay holder.

12.7 Battery

The battery is fitted on the front bulkhead ahead of the GRP dash panel. The normal fitting point

is in the central position on standard cats the heater from a Volkswagen Polo is fitted to its left.

The rear of the battery can have an angled piece of alloy or other bolted or riveted to the

bulkhead(dash) where the battery will push up against and under the angle-- The header tank

washer bottle fixture has the facility to hold down the front of the battery -drill through the chassis

And bolt (8mm) Fig 12b


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Connect the main battery leads as follows:

RED from battery positive + to starter motor large terminal (via isolator switch if fitted)

BLACK 1 from battery negative – to earth on chassis

BLACK 2# from same earthling point of chassis to engine/gearbox bell housing bolt

# this will ensure you get a good earth with engine, and will avoid power reduction to the starter motor.

It is good practice and indeed very useful to have a key operated battery isolator switch fitted

under the dash board, this will enable you to quickly isolate power without having to disconnect

the battery, and also gives you another security device.

You can if preferred use the two white/red wires these are the wires from starter solenoid

To ignition switch(connect to isolator and engine will not start but ignition will show)

Fig 12b below


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12.8 Expansion tank and radiator

The radiator is fitted and rests on and between the two chassis cross members on the front of

the car –thin rubber or other can be put under the rad-- use the metal top bracket to hold in

position this is fixed to the top chassis rail (drill with 6mm).Fig 12e . Make sure the radiator is

sloping backwards to get the best possible clearance with the nose cone - the small header

tank connection is on bottom when fitting.

The expansion tank is fitted centrally ahead of the battery on the bulkhead. Fig 12b

The expansion tank lower water pipe is connected to the lower radiator fitting, the smaller top

water pipe near the filler can be fitted in two different ways. First check the thermostat housing

for a small pipe fitting, if this is present then run a hose from there to the small connection near

the filler on the header tank- if this is not present then fit a short length of pipe approximately

50mm long and insert a blanking plug(bolt) fit with a jubilee clip and blank off the small

connection near the filler .(NOTE- A HOLE 3.2mm can be drilled in the top of the rad as a

bleed –use a self tapper to reseal with either fibre washer or a small amount of silicone)

The top hose from the radiator goes to the thermostat housing on the front of the e ngine, and

the bottom hose from the radiator to the water pump. A small piece of pipe supplied in kit is

used to join bottom hose and is useful for joining and changing angles on hoses.

If you are fitting full screen for sva then heat must be available to the screen via a heater/blower

Fig 12e


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When fitting the heater/demister you will have to run a supply from water pump to heater inlet

and heater outlet to engine head centre, if no heater you go direct from water pump to engine

head centre. A THERMOSWITCH IS FITTED TO TOP OF RAD _FIG ..

Do not forget to fill cooling system with appropriate anti–freeze solution.

12.9 Heater/demister

The legal requirement is for a demister to be fitted if you have the full windscreen, if you have

the aero screen you do not need to fit the demister unit. .

12.9 Heater/demister – continued

From early 2000 we have now been using a heater unit from a Volkswagen Polo mk 2

A small modification is done the rear of the heater sticking a small piece of alloy over the heater

Fig 12 g fig 12f

Matrix and around the plastic shape of the heater-a hole is put in the alloy and a pipe fitted –this

is fitted against the dash/bulkhead the hole continued through the grp the pipe is connected to

the channel under the dash use silicone or other around joints. Fig 12f


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12.10 Radiator fan

the rad fan is fitted to the front of the rad use pu adhesive or silicone to stick

along top and bottom of rad fan to rad Fig 12g

After wiring the fan, short out the rad thermo switch which is fitted on the top of the radiator, and

check which direction the fan is rotating and moving air through the radiator, the fan should suck

air from the front of the car through the radiator. Use a thin piece of paper, if it sticks to the

radiator it is sucking, if not it is blowing. If the fan is moving in the wrong direction, simply

change to wires around on motor this will change the fan rotation.


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PINTO Fig 12h ZETEC

Exhaust

What you need:

4 x exhaust front pipes

8 x M8 bolts.

exhaust manifold gasket x 4

The exhaust pipes fit over their appropriate outlets as shown in figure

.

Place the exhaust pipes into their appropriate positions .

make sure of clearance on bodywork.

fit all bolts to head and leave lose fig 12h

Collector

What you need:

4 into 1 exhaust collector. Fig

Now the collector may be fitted into position.

The collector should be lined up with the 4 pipes

Mark on the exhaust manifold how far up the collector should go, so you know when it is

correctly fitted. And apply exhaust sealer on pipes(silicone sealer works well)

Push the collector on to the ends of the manifolds.


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Now, using a piece of wood, knock the collector on to the manifold until the marks you have

made are covered up, so the collector is correctly and completely fitted. A 3.2 mm hole can

be drilled underside of the collector to one of the pipes and a self tapping screw fitted to

secure the pipes.

.

13.0 Cockpit finishing

13.1 Inner finishers

The small GRP finishers that go over the 12mm suspension bolts ( mounting brackets) should

now be trimmed and fitted into position using a suitable adhesive sealant and rivets, this will

stop water penetration from underneath.

Carefully place the plywood inside finishers in position and check if any trimming is required to

give a good fit. Allow for the speedometer cable routed under the driver’s side carpet and up

the offside of the finisher on the offside. The speedometer cable is routed up in a long

sweeping curve then behind the fascia to the speedometer, this helps to prevent early Speedo

cable failure.

The cable exits the gear box through the alloy tunnel under carpet –from here it can also go

through lower footwell alloy Front then back into dash from under bonnet area.


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Once the correct shape is obtained, sandpaper edges and cover the panels with vinyl cloth, fix

to the plywood reverse side with a staple gun and or adhesive . Fix to the inside of the top

chassis rail and the upper GRP rear body panel with small black self-tapping screws. Fig 13

13.2 Carpets

fitting the carpets:

The standard carpet in the kit is marked for you to cut to shape –with top tunnel

Material sewn to correct size for you.-or you can--

Purchase a tailored carpet set which is professionally made to fit the tunnel and floor

panels with enough flat carpet pieces to finish off the rear shelf and other areas.

Fit the carpets and lever gaiters before fitting the seat pads.

Fig 13


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13.3 Seats

The pad style seats are standard on the Cat. These pads are fixed to the chassis at the top of

the back pad and the front of seat pad.

Make two angled brackets to fit behind each back pad, and attach to the top chassis rail with

self-tapping screws. Fig 13a

The seat pads are fixed to the bottom chassis through the carpet with bolts. Make two flat steel

brackets and fix to the seat with short wood screws and glue - they should protrude forward of

the seat to enable a M8 hole to be drilled through for the securing bolt.

Adjustable seats can be fitted if preferred – these are bolted through the chassis

runners on the drivers side –use aprox 25mm spacers under the front of the seat

Runner –the left hand seat has two 12‖ steel straps self tappered / screwed to

underside of seat- with 8 mm holes at front -–these are bolted to chassis runners-

again use spacers.-the back of the left hand seat will need have a angled bracket

fitted

To hold the seat for sva regulations


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13.4 Seat belts(3 point “e”marked lap/dia.)

The Cat uses 3 point static seat belts, the stalks are fitted to the inner tunnel sides, the other

fixing points are on the offside near the GRP suspension cover and on the roll bar.

The small stepped washer on the seat belt that fits to the roll bar will need a little of its inside

dia.

Removed to take the new 12mm bolt.

There are also four other fixing points for full race harness on top rail.(not sva)


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13.5 Side screens

The side screens, if to be fitted, are attached to the wind screen brackets, close to the side

mirror-fixing on standard mirrors see the diagram at back of manual for drilling uprights

Two press-studs are used to fix screens to the body when shut at front lower and two straps are

used and studs will be inside the car on inner trim—when riveting use washers behind trim on

the 3.2mm rivets.

13.6 Weather equipment

The Cat weather equipment uses the roll bar as the rear top support, the fitting procedure is as

follows:

Find the centre of the hood front and fit the first stud to the hood, pull the hood and stretch as

you mark and fit the other studs to the hood. Then find the centre of the rear hood and fit the

stud, make sure that the hood is taut as you fit the stud. Pull hood and stretch as you fit the

studs around the rear panel. See drawing at rear of book for positions.

13.7 Stone guards


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The stone guards are fitted onto the rear GRP body panel on the lo wer leading edge. Fix with

rivets or self-tapping screws and the small rubber piping under the edges.


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14.0 Bonnet and nose cone

After the GRP dash panel is in the correct place, the nose cone and the bonnet can be fitted.

Place the bonnet on the dash recess, centralise, mark and trim to give an even gap allowing for

a strip of rubber beading which is glued to the dash recess. Look at bonnet at front to see if it is

square with the chassis each side—and sand off the dash side of the bonnet if not square

--it is important that the bonnet and nose are square to the chassis as best possible when

fitting.

It is a good idea to fit two small retaining brackets one on each side of the chassis to hold the

nose cone into position and at the correct angle and height, to get a good clear fit over the cam

cover and oil filler cap.

Use rubber beading on the nose cone rim, you may need to pack the centre bulge with a small piece of

rubber to get a good fit with the bonnet. Make sure that the nose cone goes under the bottom radiator

support brackets(these can be moved up a little if required)and over the headlamp supports. Position it to

match up with the front edge of the bonnet, making any adjustments necessary to give a uniform fit. GRP

edges must be radiused on the lower edge and smoothed for appearance and SVA requirements. Use two

M8 bolts to fix the nose cone under lower edge. The bonnet is held in position by over-center clips

at the rear and spring clips at the front(a small rubber sleeve is put over the end of this clip for

sva)

The clips are held in place by 3.2mm pop rivets these are 12mm long and have washers fitted

on the inside of the bonnet for strength.

The rear catches on all models need carbon look sva covers Fig 14

Mark the position of where the holes need to be positioned to fit the clips.

Drill holes using the 3.2mm drill bit.

Using the 3.2mm pop rivets, rivet the clips into place ensuring that washers are used on

inside of bonnet when the rivet is “pulled”

N.B. Ensure that when the bonnet is fixed down by the clips that it is in the correct position - it is advisable to ask

for help to hold the bonnet tightly pushed down onto the piping when you are marking the clip “3.2 hole positions”


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(there is a gap under bonnet to top of chassis/body Fig 14

As standard—If desired a piece of the larger bonnet piping cab be riveted to the underside

edge of the bonnet.

14.1 Grille

clean and degrease the front grill, paint in colour of your own choice.

Set the grill into position, mark the position of the fixing prongs, drill and insert prongs through

GRP, and bend to secure.(a small drop of paint on the prongs and held against the nose will

give drilling positions)


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15.0 Lights

15.1 Rear lights

The mounting blocks will need sanding to slight curve of wing.

CHECK ALL SVA REQUIREMENTS ON LIGHTING (a reminder)

Separate the lens from the back plate of the rear lights.

Place the rear light back plate onto the mounting blocks and mark where holes need to be

drilled through the blocks.

Drill through the blocks using the 6.mm drill bit.

Place the mounting blocks into position on the wings. Ensuring they are both at the same

height and position on the wings.

Mark where the holes need to be drilled into the wings..

Remove block and drill holes using 6.mm drill bit taking necessary precautions.

Replace blocks and lights loosely fixing them to the wings using the M6 bolts.

Between the light block and wing a strip of black piping should be run and then the bolts

should be tightened and the lights secured into place. As in figure 15g

Round lights are shown in

Number plate light fixing(use a small piece of alloy and fit behind fog lamp to bring the lamp

at 90 degree angle to ground and use black tape to tidy up after.(sva)

Rear fog lamp position is shown in fig…15…..

Fig 15a below Fig 15


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The rear fog lamp is fitted directly onto the rear GRP panel on the off side. There is the option to

fit two fog lamps if required, if only fitting one, tape nearside loom and cable tie out o f way.

Note that the rear fog lamps must be at least 250mm from the ground. And at 90 degree angle

to

Road surface --bend up a piece of alloy and tape behind to bring lens into correct position for

sva.

15.2 Rear number plate light

Drill the fitting holes for the number plate light and fix with small screws and nyloc nuts. Wiring is from loom,

cable tie around the spare wheel carrier.(on later chassis the no plate light back needs to be made and riveted

on the chassis in alloy –use a piece of ―u‖ section around top edge.


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15.4 Rear reflectors

These simply stick directly onto the Rear GRP panel beneath each of the rear light blocks.

Note that the reflectors must be at least 350mm from the ground and no more than 400mm from

the side of the car.

15.4a Spare wheel Fig 15b

The spare wheel is fitted on top of the carrier(chassis) and a bracket is bolted to the rear panel

A length of 12mmstud is used to bolt into the bracket positioning through one of the wheel bolt

holes –fig 15b…..

15.5 Front indicators and repeaters

Fig 15c

The front indicators are positioned on the side of the nose well forward(for angle of visibility) and

must also be at the correct height and also distance from outside line of the car for sva


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requirements—(on tiger cat spacers will be required on front indicators)check your sva guide for

all positions required .—These can be made from either wood or plastic and are drilled

And tapped in each end with a 8mm tap—screw in lamp one end-and use bolt in other end

through from inside of nose.(Fig shows Super six with same position and extensions)Fig 15c

15.6 Head lights

The headlamp supports are predrilled to take the sealed beam headlamps —when fitted use a

piece of rubber hose (cut down the centre) and cable tie over the protruding thread

Be aware that the headlamps must be no more than 400mm from the side of the car and at least

500mm from the ground. Check sva guide.


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SVA Test


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It is strongly advised to purchase the sva manual or at least buy a

back issue of one of the Kit mags with a comprehensive guide to

the SVA test in the issue.

It is worth remembering that the SVA test is updated from time to

time and with the proper purchase of the original manual updates

can be sent direct from the Vehicle Inspectorate straight to you to

keep you informed.

The guide enclosed in this manual is taken from an older kit mag

issue so you must assume that it will not be up to date on the

latest sva requirements.


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Items needed

1 x 3m length of 20mm plastic conduit

2 x 90 degree angles to fit conduit

2 x 4” lengths of doweling to fit in conduit

2 pairs of pin hinges (similar to side screen supports)

2 lengths of seat belt webbing ~1000mm long

2 lengths 2” wide Velcro ~ 200mm long

Instructions

The first job is to make up the two straps to hold the bar in place. This will probably require an industrial grade

sewing machine. If you do not have access to a suitable machine a local trimmer should be able to make these

up. If not AF Smith & Sons in Peterborough (01733 340100) made the set shown in the photographs.

The diagram below details how they are made.


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Drill and tap a suitable hole though the side trim panel as in the drawing below. Ensure the hole passes into the

diagonal support frame inside the rear wing. Once the hole is drilled and tapped screw the socket end of the

hinge into the hole made and repeat for the other side.

From the plastic conduit cut two lengths 620 mm long and one length 720 mm long. These sizes are around

20mm oversize to allow for variation when fitting.

With the two pieces of doweling drill a suitable hole in the end of each one and secure the other part of the pin

hinge into it. Note a small rawlplug might be needed to get a good fit for the hinge.

Next insert one piece of doweling into each of the short lengths of conduit ensuring that the doweling cannot

move.

Join the pieces together into a U frame as in the diagram below and check that it fits into the pins mounted on

the car, adjust as needed.


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When the straps are attached to the support bar and roll bar the hood frame should sit firmly in place. When

fitting the hood it should form a tight fit over the bars and not suffer from sagging in the middle. The two

pictures show the check straps from inside and also the hood fitted to the car.


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