005 capitulo 5 traslados de pinza 2

5 Designingwith Darts

(Tuck-Darts, Pleats,Flares, and Gathers)

chapter

98

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99

TUCK-DART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100

PLEAT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100

FLARE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100

GATHERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101Slash-Spread Technique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101Pivotal-Transfer Technique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102

DART CLUSTERS AND DART EQUIVALENTS . . . . . . . . .103Waist Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103Dart Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104Tuck-Dart Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105Pleat Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105Shoulder Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106Center Front Bust Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107

GRADUATED AND RADIATING DARTS . . . . . . . . . . . .108Graduated Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108Radiating Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109

PARALLEL DARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110Parallel French Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110Parallel Darts at Neck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Parallel Darts—Cape Effect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112Parallel Dart Design Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . .113

ASYMMETRIC DARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114Asymmetric Radiating Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114Asymmetric Curved Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116Asymmetric Dart Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117

INTERSECTING DARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118Intersecting Dart to Waist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118Intersecting Dart with Gathers . . . . . . . . . . . . .119Intersecting Dart Design Variations . . . . . . . . .120

DESIGNING WITH DARTS 99

INTRODUCTIONThe dart is one of the most flexible and creativeparts of the pattern. The space (excess) between thedart legs can be used in a variety of creative ways,limited only by the imagination of the designer.Dart excess used as design is referred to as dart equiv-alent. Dart equivalents are illustrated as tuck-darts,pleats, flares, and gathers. Dart equivalents replacethe dart as control and will always be directed tothe pivotal point of a pattern (such as bust point).The difference between a dart and a dart equivalentis the manner in which each is marked (and

subsequently stitched). Darts are stitched end to end,tuck-darts are partially stitched, pleats are folded,stitched across fold, and fullness is spread and gath-ered along the stitchline or flare when not stitched.

Gathers are illustrated separately using theslash-spread and pivotal-transfer techniques. Ad-vanced design using darts and dart equivalents fol-lows. A sample of each dart equivalent should be cutin fabric. It is important to view the different effectscreated by varying the dart.

100 Chapter 5

FRONT

Notch for pleat

Figure 2

Stitc

h

Fold

lin

e

Figure 1b

PLEATFigure 2• A pleat is an unstitched, folded dart held se-

curely along the joining seamline. It is devel-oped as a dart on the pattern but does notinclude punch hole and circle for dart point.Dart legs are notched. (Broken lines indicate theoriginal dart legs.)

FLAREFigure 3• A flare is an open, unstitched dart. The open dart

space is blended across the bottom. Punch holes,circles, and notches are not needed. (Brokenlines indicate original dart legs.)

• Flare should be added to the side seam; seepage 143, Figures 3 and 4 for another version.

Figure 1b• The underside of the dart illustrates the stitched

area. Note that stitching is 1/2 inch beyond thepunch holes.

FRONT

Center

1/8 "

Figure 1a

TUCK-DARTFigure 1a• A tuck-dart is a partially stitched, inverted dart

marked by a punch hole and circle along the cen-terfold and 1/8 inch inside the stitchline, 1/2 inchbelow the finished length to cover the damage.

FRONT

Blend for flare

Add flare

Figure 3


GATHERSGathers are illustrated using the slash-spread andpivotal-transfer techniques. Gathers change thelook of the basic garment but do not affect the fit.The slash-spread technique illustrates half of thedart excess used for gathers, and the pivotal-transfertechnique illustrates all of the dart excess transferredfor gathers.

Slash-Spread TechniqueFigure 1 Gathers at Shoulder• Trace the front pattern. Mark mid-shoulder. La-

bel dart legs A and B.

• Draw slash lines 1 inch out from each side of themid-shoulder, ending at bust point (pivotalpoint).

Figure 2• Cut slash lines to, not through, bust point.

• Place on pattern paper and bring dart leg Bhalfway to A. Secure.

• Spread slashed sections equally and secure.

• Trace the outline of the pattern.

• Place notch marks 1/2 inch in from shoulder andneck for gather control.

• Draw blending line along the shoulder, touchingcenter sections of the slashed parts.

Figure 3• Mark back shoulder notches same distance in

from shoulder tip and shoulder at neck.

• Add 1/2 inch seams and 1 inch at center back.

• Cut and stitch for a test fit.

Bust point

B

A

Mid-shoulder

1" 1"

Ce

nte

r ba

ck

Cut

Figure 1

B A

Dart point

Ce

nte

r fro

nt

1/2 "

1/2 "Figure 2

BACK

Ce

nte

r ba

ck

1/2 "

1/2 "

Figure 3

Bust point

BA

Ce

nte

r fro

nt

3 2 1

Tracing ends

4 5 6 Trace begins

Figure 1

123

4 5 6

B A

TraceFigure 2

Bust point

B A

3 2 1

4 5 6

TraceFigure 3

FRONT

12

3

B A

#6 (Last move)

Figure 4a

FRONT

#1

#3

Blend

Pivotal-Transfer TechniqueFigure 1• Place the pattern on paper and a pushpin at

bust point.

• Mark mid-shoulder and 1 inch out from eachside of the mark. Label 1, 2, 3 and dart legs A, B.

• Divide waist dart into thirds. Label 4, 5, and 6.

• Trace from A to shoulder mark #1 and crossmark.

Figure 2• Pivot dart leg B, covering space 4.• Trace pattern from shoulder mark 1 to 2. (Bold

line indicates traced section.)

102 Chapter 5

Figure 3• Pivot dart leg B, covering space 5.

• Trace pattern from shoulder mark 2 to 3 andcrossmark.

Figures 4a• Pivot dart leg B, covering space 6 (dart closes).

• Trace pattern from shoulder mark 3 to dart leg B.

Figure 4b• Blend shoulderline.

Figure 4b


DART CLUSTERS AND DARTEQUIVALENTS

The dart excess may be divided among multiple open-ings and treated as a single design unit. When used asa single design unit, the dart excess may be identifiedas a group of basic or stylized darts, tuck-darts, pleats,or a variation in any combination desired.

The following instructions (Figures 1, 2, and 3)apply to the development of darts, tuck-darts, and

pleat clusters. The slash lines for cluster arrange-ments can vary, being made parallel or radiating.The examples are for practice. The methods forcompleting each cluster differ and will be illustratedby Figure 4 (dart cluster), Figure 5 (tuck-dart cluster),and Figure 6 (pleat cluster).

Waist ClusterPattern Plot and DevelopmentFigure 1• Trace basic bodice.

• Square a guideline out from each dart leg 1 inchbelow bust point.

• Draw parallel slash lines to the guideline 1 inchfrom dart legs. Darts may be tapered to 3/4 inchat waistline for a slimming effect.

• Connect to bust point.

• Cut the pattern from paper.

Tuck-darts Darts Pleats

1 "

1 "

Sla

sh li

ne

Slash

line

FRONT

Bust point1"

Figure 1

104 Chapter 5

""

FRONT

Figure 2Sid

e se

am C

en

ter f

ron

t

Dart points

Trim

Inside fold

Stitch line

Figure 3

FRONT

Cu

t o

n fo

ldFigure 4


• Place on paper and spread equally, and secure.

• Draw dart legs as follows:

• Middle dart—center dart point 1/2 inch be-low the guideline and draw legs to waist.Measure the length of the dart leg.

• Outer dart legs—mark dart points 1/2 inchbelow on one side of the slash line. Draw dartlegs equal to length of the middle dart leg.

• Add seams, and allow excess of paper belowwaistline for shaping darts. Cut from paper.

Figure 3• Fold dart excess toward center front (allow pat-

tern to cup). Waistline will be uneven.

• Draw blending line across waistline. Draw seamallowance, 1/2-inch line parallel with waistline.

• Cut excess while darts are folded, or trace (withtracing wheel) across seam allowance line.

• Unfold and pencil in perforated line.

• To complete the patterns, cut three copies forpractice. Choose the dart equivalent desired(darts, tuck-darts, or pleats; see Figure 4, 5, or 6).

Dart ClusterFigure 4• Center punch hole 1/2 inch from dart point and

circle.

• Notch pattern, including dart legs.

• Draw grainline. Cut basic back for test fit.


Tuck-Dart ClusterFigure 5• Mark the center fold of each dart for punch holes

one-half the distance to dart point (varies).

• Mark punch holes in center and 1/8 inch fromdart legs.

• Circle all punch marks.

• Notch seam allowance and dart legs.

• Draw grainline. Cut basic back and complete fortest fit.

• For stitching guide, see instruction given onpage 100, Figure 1b (unstitched dart indicated by broken lines).

Pleat ClusterFigure 6• Notch each dart leg (broken lines indicate origi-

nal dart legs).*

• Draw grainline. Cut basic back and complete fortest fit.

Punch holes—not required for gathers.

FRONT

Cu

to

nfo

ld

1/8 " moreat eachside of thetuck.

Figure 5FRONT

Cu

t o

n fo

ld

Figure 6

Notes:

106 Chapter 5

BA

1 "1 "

Slash

Slash

Slash

11/2 "

Mid-shoulder

Figure 1

Tuck-dart Pleats

Darts

B C

Close

Figure 2

Shoulder Cluster

Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace basic bodice.

• Mark mid-shoulder and label dart legs A and B.

• Draw a slash line from mid-shoulder to bust point.

• Square a guideline 1 1/2 inches above bust point.

• Draw parallel line 1 inch out from each side toguideline. Connect to bust point.

Figure 2• Cut slash line to, not through, bust point.

• Close dart legs A and B. Tape.

• Place on paper and spread slash lines equally.

• Draw dart legs to guideline.

• To complete pattern for each design, see Figures 3,4, 5, and 6, pages 104 and 105.


Center Front Bust Cluster

Pattern Plot and DevelopmentFigure 1• Trace basic bodice pattern. Label dart legs A and

B. Square a line from center front to bust point.

• Draw a guideline 1 inch from bust point, parallelwith center front.

• Draw line 3/4 inch out from each side of line toguideline.

• Connect to bust point as shown.

• Cut pattern from paper.



• Place on paper and spread equally. Secure.

• Draw dart legs to guideline as shown.

• To complete pattern for each design, see Figures 3,4, 5, and 6, pages 104 and 105.

Tuck-dartsDartsPleats

B

Guideline

A

C.F. bust

FRONT

3/4 "

3/4 "

Figure 1

B A

Close

FRONT

Figure 2

108 Chapter 5

B

Gui

delin

e

A

C

1 "

51234

Figure 1

GRADUATED AND RADIATING DARTS

Graduated darts are darts of varying length within agroup. Radiating darts spread out (radiate) from a fo-cal point in a balanced arrangement and may be ofthe same or a graduated length. To prevent bulgingat the tip of the darts that are farthest from the bustmound, the dart intake is generally 1/2 inch, withall remaining excess being absorbed by the dart clos-est to the bust mound. Use back pattern to completethe design.

Graduated DartsDesign AnalysisDesign features graduating darts along the shoulder-line. The longest dart ends at bust level.

Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace bodice front and label darts legs A and B.

• Square a line from the center front to the sideseam, passing through the dart point.

• Draw a slash line from center front to 1 inch pastthe dart point. Label C.

• Draw four slash lines equally spaced from shoul-der to guideline.

• Cut from paper.

Figure 2 New Pattern Shape• Cut from neck to C and from C to dart point.


• Cut slash lines to, not through, guideline.

• Place on paper, spread, and tape. (Corner at neckwill not meet, and part of guideline overlaps.)

• Trace the pattern and blend neckline.

• Center dart point 1 inch up from slash lines.

• Draw dart legs, fold and blend shoulder.

• Complete 1/2 inch seams. Trim fullest dart legs towithin 1/2 inch of seamline. Add 1/4 inch at neck.

5

C

B A

43 2 1

Blend

Close

1/2 "1/2 " 1/2 "

Cu

to

nfo

ldFigure 2


Radiating Darts Design AnalysisDesign features radiating darts from neck, with thelongest dart placed at mid-neckline and directed tobust point.

Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace basic pattern. Label dart legs A and B.

• Draw a slash line from mid-neck to bust point.Label C.

• Locate mid-point on line C. Square out 1 inch oneach side. Label D and E.

• Measure out 1/2 inch on each side of C. Markand draw slash lines to D and E and to bust point.

Bust point

BA

Sla

shSl

ash

Sla

sh

ED

C

1 "1 "

1/2 "

1/2 "

Figure 1

Figure 2 New Pattern Shape• Cut slash lines to, not through, bust point.

• Place on paper. Close dart legs A and B. Tape.

• Spread lines D and E 1/2 inch at neck. Remainingexcess is taken up by middle dart.

• Locate dart points between guidelines as shown,with middle dart point 1 inch from bust point.

• Draw dart legs to dart point. Fold darts and blendneckline.

• Trace basic back, add seams, and complete pat-tern for test fit.

Cu

to

nfo

ld

E D

AB

Close

1/2 "1/2 "

Figure 2

110 Chapter 5

Dart points

Slash

Slash

Ce

nte

r fro

nt

FRONT

1 "

Figure 1

PARALLEL DARTSParallel darts can be created by using the dart points,or the bust point and dart point of a two-darted pat-tern. Space between the parallel darts can be in-creased by moving the dart point of the side dartfarther from bust point.

Parallel French Darts

Design Analysis: Design 1Design 1 features curved and parallel French darts.Transfer waist and side dart to the curved dart lines.

Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace two-dart front bodice pattern.

• Draw curved parallel slash lines from dart pointsto side as shown.

• Cut pattern from paper.

FRONT

Cu

t o

n fo

ld

Slit

Close

Close

Figure 2

Figure 2 New Pattern Shape• Cut slash lines to, not through, dart points.

• Close side and waist darts. Tape.

• Trace pattern on fold.

• Add seams and grainline.

Method for Finishing Darts• Add 1/2-inch seam allowance to darts.

• Where dart seams come together, slash a line1/16 inch wide to within 1/2 inch of dart point,following curve of dart. Slash curve.

• Use the basic back pattern to complete the patternfor a test fit.


Parallel Darts at Neck

Design Analysis: Design 2Parallel curved dart legs begin at corner of the neck.Neckline depth is 3 inches.

Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace two-dart front bodice.

• Draw curved slash line from dart point of waistdart to corner of neck. Crossmark at bust.

• Draw a parallel slash line from side dart point toshoulderline and draw curve neck.

Figure 2• Cut from paper and trim neckline facing.

• Trace on folded paper using measurements given.

• Add seams.

Figure 3• Cut to dart points and close darts. Trace.

• Draw new dart points 1 inch from original dart.

• Add seams and draw grainline. Add seams.

• A jog seam at the dart and neckline intersectionrequires a 1/4-inch seam allowance for facing.

FRONT

Sla

sh

Sla

sh

3 "

Mark

TrimFigure 1

FRONT

Fold

Facing: Trace on folded paper

2 "

2 "

1/4 "

1/2 "

Figure 2

1 " 1 "

Cu

t o

n fo

ldJog seam

Close

Close

1/4 "

1/4 "

1/2 "

Figure 3

112 Chapter 5

11/4 "

Sla

sh

Sla

sh

FRONT

Bustpoint

Slash

11/2 "

Trim

Figure 1

Parallel Darts—Cape Effect Design Analysis: Design 3Stylized darts extend beyond shoulder tip, creatinga cape effect. The neckline parallels the curved lines.

Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace pattern, extend shoulder 1 1/4 inches.

• Draw vertical slash lines up from dart points, par-allel with the center front. Mark bust point.

• Draw a curved line from extended shoulder untilit intersects with vertical line from the side dart.

• Draw a parallel curve line to next vertical line.

• Draw a parallel curve line for the neckline.

• Cut from paper and trim neckline.

Figure 2 Facing• Trace on folded paper as shown. Add seams.

Figure 3 New Pattern Shape

• Cut slash lines to dart points and bust point.

• Close darts and tape.

• Place on paper and trace.

• Mark dart points l inch up.

• Draw dart legs and mark punch holes.

• Add grainline and seams as shown.

FRONT

Facing: Trace on folded paper

Fold

2 "

2 "

Figure 2

1"1"

Jog seam

Punch holes arerequired when thedistance betweendart point and seam are too far apart.

1/4"

1/4 "

1/4 "C

ut

on

fold

Close

Close

Figure 3


Parallel Dart Design VariationsThe parallel dart designs are practice problems. The generated patterns are correct if they result in exact repli-cas of the designs. Solutions for Designs 1 and 3 can be seen on the DVD.

Design 1 Design 2

Design 3 Design 4

114 Chapter 5

ASYMMETRIC DARTSAsymmetric darts cross center front of the garment. Pattern shapes will change radically from that of the work-ing pattern. Asymmetric darts require special pattern handling and identification, as do all designs that differfrom side to side. Compare pattern shapes with each design. Cut basic back to complete the design for test fit.

• A full front pattern is required.

• Right-side-up instructions are necessary.

• The existing dart of the working pattern may interfere with the placement of a stylized dart. If so, the dartshould be transferred temporarily to another location (such as mid-armhole) before the pattern is plotted.Seam allowance is illustrated for each pattern because of the dart’s unique shape and location (1/4 inch atneck; 1/2 inch at shoulder, armhole, and waist; and 1/2 to 3/4 inch at side seams).

Design Analysis: Design 1Both darts end at the waist on the same side, formingtuck-darts. Scoop neckline completes the design. Transferwaist darts to mid-armhole location, where they will notinterfere with plotting of the stylized darts. Beginnersmay want to use a basic neckline (bow not illustrated).

Asymmetric Radiating Darts


Bust point Bust point

Sla

sh

Slash

2 " 2 "

C.F.

Figure 1Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace pattern on fold, transferring waist dart to

mid-armhole dart location. Draw neckline.

• Cut from paper. Unfold.

• Draw slash lines from bust points to side waist.

• Crossmark 3 inches up from the corners of eachslash line to indicate the length of the tuck-dart.

Figure 2 New Pattern Shape• Cut slash lines to, not through, bust point.

• Close dart legs. Tape and trace.

• Label right-side-up. Draw grainline and addseams.

Tuck-Darts• Draw seams across open dart 1/2 inch below each

crossmark.

• Cut from paper. (Broken lines show the discardedpart of dart legs.)

Figure 2

Dart excess

BACK

1/4 "

2 "

Trim

Figure 3

Figure 3• To complete the pattern, trace

back, marking 2 inches in fromshoulder tip, and 1/4 inch down,ending at center back.

• Remaining dart excess is trimmedat shoulder.

• Complete pattern for test fit.

Close CloseFRONT

Right-Side-Up

Tuck

-dart

Tuck

-dart

1/2 "

1/2 "

1/2 "

116 Chapter 5

Bust point Bust point

Slash

Slash

C.F.

Parallel

Figure 1

Asymmetric Curved Darts

Design Analysis: Design 2Design 2 features curved darts that cross over centerfront. One dart ends at the armhole and the other atthe waist. Before plotting the style darts, transferwaist darts to mid-armhole.

Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace front pattern on fold, transferring waist

darts to mid-armhole location. Cut and unfold.

• Draw a curved line from bust point to waist.

• Draw a parallel line from bust point to armhole.

Figure 2 New Pattern Shape• Cut slash lines to, not through, bust points.

• Close dart legs. Tape and trace pattern.

• Center dart points 1 inch from bust point. Drawdart legs.

• Label right-side-up. Add seams and grainline.

• Complete pattern for test fit.FRONT

Right-Side-UpClose

Close

Slit

Slit

Figure 2


Asymmetric Dart VariationsDesigns are practice problems. Designs 3 and 4 are given for advanced students. The generated patterns arecorrect if they result in exact representations of the designs. Designs 3 and 4 can be seen on the DVD.

Design 1

Design 2

Design 3

Design 4

118 Chapter 5

INTERSECTING DARTSIntersecting darts resemble asymmetric darts anddart equivalents. The darts cross center front and in-tersect with each other. To complete the design, usebasic back patern. See Chapter 16 for guidance in de-veloping facings.

Intersecting Dart to Waist

Design Analysis: Design 1Darts are treated as pleats in the “V” section. Theneckline is cut away.

Pattern Plot and DevelopmentFigure 1• Trace pattern on fold, transferring waist dart to

mid-armhole.

• Draw neckline 1 inch in from neck at shoulder.Blend to center front neck.

• Cut from paper. Unfold.

• Draw slash lines intersecting at center front.

Figure 2• Cut slash lines to, not through, bust points.

• Close dart legs. Tape.

• Pleats: Fold darts.

• Add seams and notches for pleats.

• Draw grain and label right-side-up.

• Cut from paper.

Figure 3• Trace back neckline, marking 1 inch from shoul-

der at neck and 1/2 inch at center back neck.

FRONT

1 " 1 "

2 "C

en

ter f

ron

t

Slash

Slash

Trim

Figure 1

BACK

1/2 "1 "Trim

Figure 3

Right-side-up

Trim

Figure 2


Intersecting Dart with Gathers

Design Analysis: Design 2Design 2 features one stylized dart crossing the cen-ter front to the opposite side, ending above the sidewaist. Gathers (dart equivalents) form under the bust.

Figure 1• Trace pattern on fold, transferring waist darts to

mid-armhole.

• Cut and unfold.

• Draw styleline from dart point to side waist, pass-ing 3 inches below bust.

• Draw slash lines for gathers.

• Mark notches 1/2 inch out from first and lastslash line for notches as gather control.

FRONT

Slash

Slash

2 1/2 "

1/2 "1/2 "

C.F.

Figure 1

Figure 2• Cut slash lines to, not through, dart points.

• Close darts. Tape.

• Place on paper and spread section equally forgathers and trace.

• Center dart point 1/2 inch from bust pointand draw dart legs.

• Add seams; blend gathered area.

• Draw grainline, mark notches, and labelright-side-up.

• Cut from paper.

• Trace basic back and complete pattern fortest fit.

CloseClose

FRONTRight-Side-Up

Slit

Figure 2

120 Chapter 5

Intersecting Dart Design VariationsThe intersecting dart designs are practice problems. The generated patterns are correct if they result in exactrepresentations of the designs. For designs 5 and 6, see solution on the DVD.

Design 1 Design 2 Design 3 Design 4

Design 5 Design 6 Design 7

005 capitulo 5 traslados de pinza 2

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